Though herbicides control weeds, these chemicals can pose serious health risks to humans and wildlife. Manual weeding, on the other hand, gets the job done without harm to people, pets, or the environment. With a well-made weeding tool and some vigilance, banishing these pesky plants can be fairly simple.

Weeds proliferate in your garden seemingly overnight, and it’s easiest to remove them when they’re young. Some weeds, such as dandelions, develop a single taproot that grows deeper into the soil as the plant matures. The longer the taproot, the more difficult it becomes to eradicate. Though some weeds release without a fight, others will have gardeners wondering whether they need a jackhammer to dislodge them. That said, timing and soil conditions are key to weed removal: After a rainfall, soil is softer and more willing to release roots.

With a proliferation of weed-control tools available, choosing the right one for the task at hand may feel like a shot in the dark. To help, we searched out and tested tools that work best for a variety of circumstances. Our favorite was the Original Weeder from CobraHead, thanks to its versatile uses and durable tempered steel head. Shoppers looking for the best weeding tool will want to check out our shopping considerations and product reviews ahead.

1. BEST OVERALL: CobraHead Original Weeder & Cultivator Garden Tool
2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Radius Garden Ergonomic Weeder
3. BEST KNIFE WEEDER: Nisaku NJP801 Yamagatana Stainless Steel Knife
4. BEST STANDING WEEDER: Grampa’s Weeder
5. BEST FORK WEEDER: Corona Extended Reach ComfortGel 2-Prong Weeder
6. BEST SHORT-HANDLE HOE: Elegital Blue Arrow Express Kana Hoe 217 Garden Tool
7. BEST LONG-HANDLE HOE: Truper Tru Tough Welded Warren Hoe

Product Comparison

Our Top Picks

With our shopping considerations in mind, which we look at later in greater detail, we created a list of the best weeding tools for typical lawn, garden, and landscape projects. Read on to learn more about these tools and how they performed in our tests.

Best Overall

CobraHead Original Weeder & Cultivator Garden Tool

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Bob Vila Approved recognizes the household and DIY products that impressed us most in our real-world testing and that exemplify core values of the Bob Vila brand, including craftsmanship, innovation, and value for the dollar. Winners of this designation come recommended by our professional review team and are personally approved by Bob Vila.

This Bob Vila Approved product carries our brand’s highest level of recommendation.

Bob Vila Approved recognizes the household and DIY products that impressed us most in our real-world testing and that exemplify core values of the Bob Vila brand, including craftsmanship, innovation, and value for the dollar. Winners of this designation come recommended by our professional review team and are personally approved by Bob Vila.

Product Specs

• Type: Digging, cutting, raking
• Handle length: 8 inches
• Head size: 5 inches long by 1 inch wide

What We Like

• Multiuse tool works great for both for weeding and planting
• Tempered steel head is durable and easily lasts several seasons
• Thick, comfortable handle; ideal for long hours in the garden
• Works in any soil type; provides excellent versatility

What We Don’t Like

• Only for up-close work; may require lots of bending and kneeling
• Cuts deep taproots instead of pulling them

Great for removing stubborn weeds from heavy soil, this weeding tool’s curved, forged-steel end hooks deeply beneath the weed to lift and remove it. It’s made to easily pierce soil and let the user apply pressure from the side, bottom, or any angle in between to find the weed’s weakest point.

The multifunction tool’s shovellike tip resembles a snake head and can be used for planting rows of seeds, scratching in fertilizer around plants, and scraping out young weed seedlings. The plastic grip is designed to help gardeners keep a firm hold while they work.

In testing, the CobraHead’s versatility truly impressed us. The curved shaft and fingernail-like shape of the blade dug deep into the soil for removal of taproot, yet it just scratched the surface to cultivate safely next to young seedlings. In addition to our in-ground and container garden weeding tests, we used the CobraHead to prepare planting spots for new seedlings. The tough blade quickly loosened the surface to a depth of about 4 inches with little effort.

The thick handle provided a sure, comfortable grip in either hand. The drawback of this tool’s design is that it easily cuts off the deepest taproots, leaving the stump behind to resprout. But for young weeds of all types, cultivating near sensitive plants, and occasional soil preparation work, this is a handy little tool. We can highly recommend the CobraHead’s unique shape and lightweight design to tackle weeding and many other garden-related tasks.

Get the CobraHead weeding tool at Amazon, Gardener’s Edge, or Grow Organic.

Best Bang for the Buck

Radius Garden Ergonomic Weeder

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Product Specs

• Type: Digging
• Handle length: 5.75 inches
• Head size: 9 inches long by 1.5 inches wide

What We Like

• Digs deeply to remove the whole tap root
• Comfortable ergonomic handle helps reduce fatigue after prolonged use
• Strong die-cast aluminum blade will not bend

What We Don’t Like

• Requires bending or kneeling; not a long tool
• Thick blade is more difficult to use in heavy soil

Gardeners need a strong grip to weed in dense soil, but as hands tire, grip strength suffers. The curved handle on the Radius Garden weeding tool is designed to keep the user’s hand and wrist aligned while pushing the serrated aluminum tool next to the root to lift out the weed. This impressive tool helps remove deeply rooted weeds that grow at the base of vegetables, shrubs, and perennials—and it’s a bargain, to boot.

The narrow blade easily cuts through any type of soil to remove pesky weeds and help to navigate around nearby plants without damaging their roots. The unusual shape of the thermoplastic grip provides a smooth, comfortable surface that’s easy to hang on to.

Another versatile weeder that doubles as a transplanter, this Radius hand tool proved impressive for the price. It was very effective at removing established taproot weeds, with the narrow blade easily reaching 5 to 6 inches deep to loosen the soil for thorough removal without breaking the root. For shallow, fibrous weeds, we slid the blade just below the soil surface at a shallow angle, a slow process, but ultimately successful.

As a transplanter for seedlings, however, it worked quite well. It was lightweight and easy to use, and the oversize ergonomic cushioned grip left us with virtually no hand fatigue after extended use. Those who need a taproot weeding tool for working in confined spaces will find this one quite helpful, and it’s likely to come in handy for other chores as well.

Get the Radius Garden weeding tool at Amazon.

Best Knife Weeder

Nisaku NJP801 Yamagatana Stainless Steel Knife

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Product Specs

• Type: Digging, cutting
• Handle length: 5.5 inches
• Head size: 7.5 inches long by 1.75 inches wide

What We Like

• Mid-tang stainless steel blade is very sharp and durable
• Sharp edge and measured blade markings helps with precision
• Comfortable nonslip grip feels good in the hand
• Hard plastic sheath included to protect the blade when not in use

What We Don’t Like

• Premium price point compared to similar products
• Sheath not as durable as the knife; may need replacing every few seasons

Though several popular configurations of weeding knives exist, we prefer the classic Japanese hori hori knife design. This weeding tool by Nisaku combines classic style with modern materials that will probably last a lifetime. The stainless steel blade features one smooth sharpened edge and one serrated edge to cut easily through weed roots, divide clumps of perennials, and cut garden twine. The concave face of the blade is ideal for removing taproots, and engraved measurement markings help to gauge transplant planting depth.

The ergonomic contoured handle includes a textured surface for improved grip and a wide molded hilt loop for hanging on a hook in the garden shed. The knife comes with a plastic sheath for safe carrying and storage.

In testing, the do-it-all Nisaku hori hori garden knife proved comfortably constructed, well-balanced, and easy to use for large and small hands. It did a great job of taproot removal and skimming the soil beneath fibrous rooted weeds, though it was less successful when it came to prying weeds from narrow cracks between bricks and pavers. We also used it to dig, divide, and transplant a few hostas that had finished blooming, and it made quick work of the tough fibrous roots.

The blade’s material construction looks, feels, and is in fact extremely high quality: high carbon 440C stainless steel hardened to HRC 58—similar in material and hardness as professional kitchen knives and top-notch pocket knives. Even after digging around in the dirt, the edges were still sharp enough to slice easily through ¼-inch-thick forsythia branches. Though we found the plastic scabbard to feel rather cheap, we believe that serious gardeners will want to keep this tool close at hand for all sorts of chores.

Get the Nisaku weeding tool at Amazon or The Home Depot.

Best Standing Weeder

Grampa’s Weeder

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Product Specs

• Type: Digging, pulling
• Handle length: 39 inches
• Head size: 1 inch wide by 2.5 inches deep, with a 5.5-inch step lever

What We Like

• Can easily pull taproot lawn and garden weeds
• Made from durable hardwood handle and steel head
• Works from a standing position; better for reducing back pain

What We Don’t Like

• Specialty single-task tool not as versatile as other weeders
• Weeds can clog the tool head; can require manual removal

Before the days of spray-on weed killers, obtaining a weed-free lawn meant pulling the pesky unwanted plants by hand. Grampa’s Weeder was probably hailed as a miracle back saver when it was introduced in 1913. Now the classic design represents an efficient alternative to chemical controls. Plus, it can be rather fun to use.

The simple, ingenious design features a steel step-on lever connected to a hinged jaw. Step down to insert the tool into the soil, then lever back on the handle to pull out the weed, root and all. Results are immediate, with no ugly dead weeds left in the lawn.

During tests, we found Grampa’s Weeder was most effective for use on dandelions and other fleshy rooted and rosette-forming weeds such as wild violet and wild lettuce. We had the greatest success when our clay-based soil was moist but not muddy. When the soil was too wet, the tool lost gripping ability, and when the soil was dry, the weed roots were more likely to break off. But in the most favorable conditions, we pulled 10 to 12 weeds per minute (5 to 6 seconds per weed).

Working just a few minutes a day, long enough to fill a bucket with weeds, we completely eradicated weeds from 5,000 square feet of lawn in 3 days. Grampa’s Weeder worked just as well in landscape and flower beds. For those who deal with regular invasions of taproot and fleshy root weeds, this could be a helpful weapon to fight the good fight.

Get the Grampa’s Weeder weeding tool at Amazon, Ace Hardware, or Garrett Wade.

Best Fork Weeder

Corona Extended Reach ComfortGel 2-Prong Weeder

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Product Specs

• Type: Digging, pulling
• Handle length: 34 inches
• Head size: 3 inches long by 0.5 inch wide

What We Like

• Cushioned nonslip grip is easier to handle for long periods
• Capable of pulling out tough taproot weeds
• Works from a standing position to save users’ backs
• Also useful as a trash gatherer; multi purpose tool

What We Don’t Like

• Taller or shorter users may find it less comfortable
• Sharp head sometimes cuts off some of the root

Two-prong weeders are taproot specialists, and this one from Corona is one of the best. This weeding tool is made of steel with a sharpened heat-treated fork-tipped blade. It features a long handle that turns weeding into stand-up work, saving the user’s back and knees, while a trapezoidal-shaped cushioned-grip handle reduces hand fatigue.

We used this Corona tool to pull weeds from lawn, landscape, and garden beds. Although it is made of steel, it felt lightweight to carry around, and we appreciated the simplicity of the design—a complete lack of moving parts. It proved easy to operate one-handed: Slide the head into the ground next to the weed, then pull the lever backward to excavate the weed. It worked best on medium to large weeds (smaller weeds often slipped between the forks) when soil was damp. Mud, unfortunately, prevented the lever action from working properly, while hard dry soil led to root breaks and only partial removal. This weed puller was especially useful for woody weeds such as young oak, sweet gum, and elm seedlings. Despite soil condition issues, the tool proved to be an easy-to-use, easy-to-store asset for patrolling the yard.

Get the Corona weeding tool at Ace Hardware, Lowe’s, or Acme Tools.

Best Short-Handle Hoe

Elegital Blue Arrow Express Kana Hoe 217 Garden Tool

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Product Specs

• Type: Digging, chopping, slicing
• Handle length: 5 inches
• Head size: 5 inches long by 1.25 inches wide

What We Like

• Sharp blade easily slices through roots; great for dealing with lots of weeds
• High-carbon-steel blade and hardwood handle
• Blade easy to sharpen and stays sharp a long time
• Blade is angled for user comfort and efficient work

What We Don’t Like

• Not designed for left-handed use
• Overall tool length feels a bit too short

A kana hoe, which works on the pull stroke, is used for scraping and slicing cleanly through shallow roots in the upper layers of soil. This one from Elegital is built for up-close work in raised beds, container gardens, and in-ground gardens. The broadly curved blade is attached to the handle at a comfortable angle to reduce hand and wrist fatigue while working aggressively. It features a hardwood handle and a high-carbon-steel head that stays sharp longer and resharpens more easily than other types of steel.

The size of this tool was just right for scratching out 2 or 3 square feet of weeds at a time. The sharp blade sliced right through, whether the weeds were young or well established. In established garden areas, three or four strokes were adequate to cut through weed roots and break up the resulting debris. It works the soil to a depth of up to 4 or 6 inches, so it’s useful for preparing planting holes as well. However, where thick tree roots or large rocks were present, it became much less effective.

This kana hoe would be a great choice for general weeding and replanting in raised beds or well-established in-ground gardens but probably not for landscape beds. Note: The blade orientation is for right-handed users. Lefties may want to check out this one from Bonsai.

Get the Elegital weeding tool at Amazon.

Best Long-Handle Hoe

Truper Tru Tough Welded Warren Hoe

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Product Specs

• Type: Digging, chopping
• Handle length: 54 inches
• Head size: 6 inches long by 4.75 inches wide

What We Like

• Welded steel head and hardwood handle is durable and long lasting
• Lightweight and easy to use; works large soil areas quickly
• Also useful for planting and cultivating

What We Don’t Like

• Not built for use in untilled soil

This garden hoe is designed to be effective at eliminating different kinds of weeds in different garden spaces, and help with planting too. With an overall length of 54 inches, the Truper Tru weeding tool is a back-saving weed slayer. It offers plenty of reach to work through raised beds efficiently and in-ground gardens without unnecessary bending and stooping. It features a 54-inch hardwood handle and welded steel head.

We liked that we could easily use any edge of this hoe to eradicate weeds in different ways. Between rows of garden vegetables, we mostly used the long, slightly curved sides of the blade to scrape the weeds away, switching to the right or left side as needed to avoid damaging garden plants. Between plants spaced at least 4 or 5 inches apart, we employed the pointed end to scratch out weeds. In addition to weeding, we used this hoe to pull soil into mounds (“hills”) to plant squash and to create long, narrow furrows for planting beans.

The hardwood handle was lightweight and strong, and it felt good in hand, but it is no doubt susceptible to degradation if left exposed to the elements. Plus, we found that the tool was not particularly effective at working in heavy clay soil that had not been previously tilled. Still, this Warren hoe would make an excellent primary weeding tool for any vegetable gardener, and its versatility will suit those just beginning to establish a garden tool collection or with limited storage space.

Get the Truper weeding tool at Amazon, DK Hardware, or North 40 Outfitters.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Tested the Best Weeding Tools

Those looking for nontoxic ways to eliminate weeds from lawns and gardens typically begin by simply pulling them by hand. Soon enough they realize that specialized tools are better for controlling the toughest weeds. The locations where those tools will be used and the types of weeds that are present play dominant roles in deciding which weeding tools are best suited for the job. Our tests, therefore, included a variety of tools designed for specific tasks.

We carried out our weeding tool tests in two trial areas: a lawn and a vegetable garden. Both areas included a variety of common weeds with different growth habits, such as dandelions, wild violet, crabgrass, and spurge. We used each tool for a minimum of an hour to weed in one or both of these areas, depending on the tool design. For instance, we used the Warren hoe only in the garden, but we tested the Radius weeding tool in both areas.

For inclusion in this guide, we required that a tool offer excellent results in one or more critical weeding tasks: general weed control in raised or in-ground garden beds, general weed control in container gardens or confined spaces, or removing taproot and rosette weeds from lawns. Because of the diversity of designs tested, we evaluated each tool based on its ability to perform its own designed purpose instead of comparing dissimilar tools.

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Weeding Tool

With a wide array of weeding tools from which to choose, it may be difficult to decide on the best ones to maintain garden beds and lawns. However, shoppers may appreciate the variety when they understand the features each tool offers, from pulling weeds to cutting through compacted soil. Take some time to learn about these implements and the factors that set them apart to find the best tool for weeding any yard.

Types of Weeding Tools

The method of weed removal, such as digging, chopping, cutting, slicing, or raking, distinguishes the several types of weeding tools from one another.

Digging and Chopping

Taproot weeds such as dandelions require a digging tool that penetrates soil deeply enough to dislodge the entire root. Traditional fork-tongue fishtail weeders work well. Snakehead and spearpoint tips also rise to the task. Grub hoes, the toughest of these tools, may make the best match for large weeds in heavy soil.

Short-handled chopping hoes help remove large weeds in areas that require more precision, such as around the base of perennials and shrubs. Steel diggers, perhaps the best digging tools for hard clay soil, won’t bend or break in denser soils.

Cutting and Slicing

Although not always useful on deeply rooted weeds, cutting tools such as knives and sickles work well on roots that are more fibrous, such as those of crabgrass and creeping Charlie, which sit close to the soil surface.

Knives cut away entire pieces of weed-infested turf and scrape out weeds from sidewalk cracks and pavers. Slicers, such as stirrup-style hoes, skim the surface of the soil with a push/pull motion. They quickly remove smaller weeds or those in cultivated beds.

Raking

Ideal for loose, easy-to-work soil in cultivated flower and vegetable gardens, raking weeders, like stirrup hoes, forks, and hybrid cultivators, combine digging and raking tools on a single head to lift clusters of shallow-rooted weeds.

These tools work with a push/pull action, skimming the soil surface and dislodging smaller weeds that gardeners can gather and discard or leave in place to decompose and feed the soil. Consider a long-handled raking weeder for removing weeds around shrubs and a short version for raised beds and tight spaces.

Size and Weight

The size and components of a weeding tool have the most impact on its weight. Hand tools may weigh less than a pound and usually no more than 5 or 6 pounds. Lighter manual full-length tools such as hoes and forks usually weigh between 5 and 10 pounds.

A heavy tool can be tiring to wield when weeding for a long period, so try to strike a balance between durability and weight (not to mention cost). Aluminum and plastic garden tools are lighter and less expensive, but they most likely won’t last very long. Steel and fiberglass are pricier and last longer. Wooden tools weigh more and cost less.

Those working on a small flower bed with minimal growing areas may find a smaller, lighter tool sufficient. Smaller tools allow for more flexibility and precision in tighter spaces. More extensive gardens require heavier, sturdier tools that provide more leverage for digging and breaking up soil.

Blade and Handle Material

Stainless steel, aluminum, plastic, wood, and fiberglass figure prominently into the handles and blades of weeding tools.

• Steel lasts a long time and gets the job done, but it’s not lightweight. A steel shaft or handle weighs more than aluminum, plastic, and fiberglass. And only stainless steel or powder-coated steel resists rust.
• Aluminum weighs less than steel and resists rust. On the other hand, this less expensive material bends and dents more easily than steel. Aluminum may not stand up well to hard, rocky soil.
• Plastic handles weigh less and cost less, but the lightweight, inexpensive material can break or crack with heavy or extended use—so they’re hardly a bargain in the long run.
• Wood handles and shafts provide a cost-effective, durable, and moderate weight option. But wood can break, crack, and rot in certain weather conditions.
• Fiberglass provides a strong and lightweight handle at a slightly higher price. This material stands strong against rust and extreme weather.

Handle Length

For the right handle length, consider both the work area and the user’s own physical limitations. Large garden beds and walkways are best weeded from an upright position that takes the stress off the back, helping gardeners do the greatest amount of work with the least amount of effort. If bad knees or hips make it difficult to kneel comfortably, choose a longer handle.

Some weeders include a feature that lets users pull the weed and discard it without having to bend over. Raised beds and tight spaces are conducive to short-handled weeders that let gardeners—especially those with healthy joints—get up close. Some weeding tools include an ergonomic grip that keeps the hand and wrist at the same angle, eliminating strain on joints caused by prolonged repetitive use.

Grip

Rubber coating on grips and handles can help alleviate wear and tear on hands. Shoppers will want to keep in mind that regardless of the ergonomic or fatigue-relieving features any handle or grip might offer, it’s still a good idea to wear a quality pair of gardening gloves to avoid scratches and cuts from branches, stones, and thorns.

Plastic handles designed in ergonomic shapes that offer a comfortable grip work fine for smaller tools. However, they often can’t handle the leveraging pressure that larger tools can, and they will snap easily.

FAQs

The post The Best Weeding Tools, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Bob Vila.

A drab, weedy lawn isn’t a lost cause with the help of modern weed and feed fertilizers. Designed to introduce essential nutrients to accelerate the grass’s growth, these products help lawns grow thick and healthy. At the same time, they put the hurt on weeds to choke out the plants you don’t want in favor of the lush carpet of greenery you do. After researching the top fertilizer mixes, we tested eight of the top weed and feeds on a lawn that needed some serious help. These weed and feed products were all tested for at least 4 weeks with varying results and levels of success.

After testing, we can say that our favorite is the GreenView Broadleaf Weed Control Plus Lawn Food. It’s highly concentrated, so it doesn’t take much product to make a big difference. We tested the products in a grid, and the square with this product outgrew (and out-greened) all the others. 

The test lawn needed both nutrients and weed reduction, so it gave us the perfect canvas for testing. Keep reading to get a look at how the best weed and feed performed in real-world conditions and what kind of growth (and weed death) you can expect in your own yard.

1. BEST OVERALL: GreenView Broadleaf Weed Control Plus Lawn Food
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2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Scotts Turf Builder Weed and Feed
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3. UPGRADE PICK: BioAdvanced 5-in-1 Weed & Feed
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4. BEST NATURAL: Espoma Organic Weed Preventer
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5. BEST COOL-SEASON: GreenView Fairway Formula Spring Weed and Feed
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6. BEST WARM-SEASON: Scotts Turf Builder Southern Triple Action
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7. BEST LIQUID: Scotts Liquid Turf Builder With Plus 2 Weed Control
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Before You Buy Weed and Feed 

Maintaining a healthy lawn includes mowing, weeding, watering, and fertilizing. However, fertilizing isn’t always necessary. Overfertilizing a lawn will make the grass grow more vigorously, requiring more frequent mowing or leading to runoff, which ends up in the local watershed. 

Excessive fertilizing can also result in lawn burn, which is when the nitrogen and salt levels in the soil are too high and cause yellow to brown strips or patches of dead grass. A lawn only needs fertilizing if the soil lacks the vital nutrients to help it grow. Home soil test kits can be used to check the soil composition and help you decide what type of fertilizer will best nourish your grass. 

Product Comparison

Our Top Picks

The following list includes the fertilizers that stood out during research and were then tested to narrow the field to some of the most effective weed and feeds on the market. This list includes both liquid and granular weed treatments. 

Best Overall

GreenView Broadleaf Weed Control Plus Lawn Food

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What We Like

• Doesn’t require a lot of product to make a difference
• Capable of killing over 250 weed varieties
• Slow-release nitrogen formula
• Made a noticeable difference in grass growth rate and health

What We Don’t Like

• Should not be used on Floratam St. Augustine, Dichondra, and carpet grass 
• Contains 2,4-D

Our Ratings: Application 5/5; Feed Effectiveness 5/5; Weed Control 2.5/5; Value 5/5 

Product Specs 

• NPK ratio: 27-0-4
• Application: Spring or early fall
• Grass type: Kentucky bluegrass, fine and tall fescues, perennial ryegrass, Bahia, St. Augustine, common Bermuda, hybrid Bermuda, zoysia, centipede, Colonial bent

Taking care of a lawn and reducing common weeds is part of property ownership, and for those who want to spruce up lawn health quickly, this GreenView weed and feed mix can do it. This fertilizer and weed killer for lawns is made with a slow-release nitrogen formula that thickens grass, without excessive growth, targeting 250 weed varieties, including dandelions, clover, plantain, dollar weed, and ground ivy. It was the top performer in our testing, creating grass that outgrew the rest. It’s also a great spring or fall weed and feed.

The granules are effective for over 8 weeks and are safe to use on warm- and cool-season grass types, though there are a few varieties to avoid. Plus, the slow release nitrogen is safer to use when temperatures start to rise without burning the grass or causing other lawn injury.

The grass was noticeably taller and greener in the square with this GreenView mix. It’s also a highly concentrated fertilizer and weed preventer, so it doesn’t take a large amount to make a big difference in lawn health. While it didn’t kill existing weeds, fewer weeds grew in the area where this mix was applied. Our only issue with this product is that it contains 2,4-D (as did almost all of the other synthetic products in this test), which has the potential to affect human health and the environment. Make sure to read the application instructions to reduce the potential harmful effects.

Get the GreenView broadleaf weed and feed at Amazon, Lowe’s, Tractor Supply Co., The Home Depot, Walmart (39 pounds), or GreenView.

Best Bang for the Buck

Scotts Turf Builder Weed and Feed

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What We Like

• Quick, tangible results for thickening grass and preventing weeds
• Highly concentrated and ample quantity
• Compatible with multiple grass varieties

What We Don’t Like

• Not suitable for warm-season grasses
• Contains 2,4-D

Our Ratings: Application 5/5; Feed Effectiveness 4.5/5; Weed Control 2.5/5; Value 4/5 

Product Specs 

• NPK ratio: 26-0-2
• Application: Spring
• Grass type: Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass, centipede, Bahia, Bermuda, zoysia

Scotts is a well-known brand with an extensive range of lawn care products, including fertilizer and weed and grass killer. This product combines the strongest weed and feed for lawns available from Scotts. It’s supposed to kill common broadleaf weeds like dandelions and clover using WeedGrip technology while feeding the lawn for thicker grass. However, our testing revealed more feed than weed. Granted, the lawn we tested it on has a serious clover and dandelion problem. It’s possible the weed issues were too much even for this powerful weed killer. While we didn’t see a noticeable difference in weed health, they didn’t proliferate.

Scotts Turf Builder is one of the most popular and economical fertilizer and weed control combination products available. Although this weed and feed for Bermuda grass works on many common turf grasses, such as fescue, centipede, Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, Bahia, and zoysia, it’s not recommended for some warm-season grasses, such as St. Augustine, Dichondra, or carpet grass. As a synthetic product, it contains 2,4-D, which has the potential to damage human and environmental health.

Get the Scotts Turf Builder weed and feed at Amazon, Lowe’s, or The Home Depot. 

Upgrade Pick

BioAdvanced 5-in-1 Weed & Feed

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What We Like

• Works on over 200 weed and grassy-weed varieties 
• Long-lasting formula feeds for up to 3 months
• Provides nutrients as well as heat and drought resistance
• Requires a minimal amount of mix to make a big difference in lawn health

What We Don’t Like

• Not suitable for new grass
• Contains 2,4-D

Our Ratings: Application 5/5; Feed Effectiveness 5/5; Weed Control 3.5/5; Value 5/5

Product Specs 

• NPK ratio: 22-0-4
• Application: Spring, early summer, fall
• Grass type: Bermuda, fescue, buffalo grass, seashore paspalum, zoysia

Taking care of grass while keeping away common weeds and crabgrass can be exhausting and time-consuming. But the BioAdvanced 5-in-1 weed and feed long-lasting formula greens grass and boosts growth so much that users might need to add an extra cutting to their weekly routine. This potent mix can act as a grass killer for crabgrass as well as broadleaf weeds like clover, dandelion, chickweed, and 200 other weed and grassy-weed varieties. It also strengthens established grass by fortifying roots. 

With a coverage area of over 4,000 square feet, this weed and feed mix resists the effects of heat and drought and is safe to use on cool-season grass types. It’s also a highly concentrated mix, requiring a minimal amount to be effective. 

In testing, it made a big difference in grass growth rate and health, making the grass noticeably brighter and taller. However, it didn’t do much to choke out the clover and weeds, though it showed some ability to prevent new weeds from sprouting. It also contains 2,4-D, a chemical that can potentially harm the environment or people.

Get the BioAdvanced weed and feed at Lowe’s, Walmart, or BioAdvanced.

Best Natural

Espoma Organic Weed Preventer

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What We Like

• Made from 100 percent corn gluten meal
• Can be used in any season and is compatible with all lawn types
• Can be used in flower beds or vegetable gardens

What We Don’t Like

• Only covers 1,250 square feet of lawn
• Doesn’t fertilize or control weeds as well as synthetic products

Our Ratings: Application 5/5; Feed Effectiveness 4/5; Weed Control 2.5/5; Value 3.5/5 

Product Specs 

• NPK ratio: 9-0-0
• Application: Spring
• Grass type: All grasses

Espoma’s Organic Weed Preventer is a natural solution to prevent lawn weeds without harming the environment. This product is made with 100 percent corn gluten meal, which is a byproduct of the corn-milling process that contains a high amount of nitrogen. When applied to your lawn, the nitrogen in the corn gluten meal provides a slow-release fertilizer to nourish the grass and make it more resistant to weeds. Additionally, the corn gluten meal acts as a natural pre-emergent herbicide that inhibits the growth of weed seeds by drying out their roots.

Unlike chemical-based weed preventers, Espoma’s Organic Weed Preventer is safe for pets, children, and the environment. It can safely be used on flower beds and in gardens. During testing, we found that much more of this mix is required to be as effective as synthetic fertilizers. The granules are also more noticeable on the lawn. However, we didn’t have to worry about children or pets walking on that lawn while the granules were still visible. We also appreciated that it can safely be used on flowers and vegetable gardens. 

This fertilizer/weed preventer did improve grass color and growth, but it didn’t perform as well as synthetic products. Espoma can help prevent pre-emergent weeds, but not those already growing.

Get the Espoma weed and feed at Ace Hardware or Walmart. 

Best Cool-Season

GreenView Fairway Formula Spring Weed and Feed

See It

What We Like

• Kills over 200 varieties of weeds
• Slow-release formula fertilizes for up to 12 weeks
• 36-pound bag treats up to 10,000 square feet of lawn
• Made a noticeable difference in the health and growth rate

What We Don’t Like

• Contains 2,4-D
• Didn’t kill existing weeds

Our Ratings: Application 5/5; Feed Effectiveness 5/5; Weed Control 2.5/5; Value 4.5/5 

Product Specs 

• NPK ratio: 24-0-6
• Application: Spring or fall
• Grass type: Kentucky bluegrass, Bermuda, buffalo grass, perennial ryegrass, fine and tall fescues, Bahia, centipede, zoysia, St. Augustine (except for Floratam)

GreenView Fairway Formula fertilizes lawns, targets over 200 lawn weed species, and prevents crabgrass from growing. It contains both slow-release and quick-release nutrients that feed a lawn for up to 12 weeks at a time. We like that the slow release reduces the number of times the fertilizer would need to be applied in a year. 

Due to the slow-releasing formula, GreenView Fairway Formula is best for use on established lawns with a healthy root system. Using it on new grass may result in burning and stunted growth. It can be used on warm- or cool-season grasses, but check the acceptable grass varieties as there are some exceptions. 

This mix noticeably boosted grass health during testing, with the grass growing at a faster rate and being greener than non-treated grass. It comes in a large bag and doesn’t require a lot of granules to be effective, making it an economical option for large lawns. However, we didn’t notice any difference in weed health, either killing them or preventing more from growing. 

Get the GreenView Fairway Formula weed and feed at Tractor Supply Co., Ace Hardware (18 pounds), The Home Depot, Walmart, or GreenView.

Best Warm-Season

Scotts Turf Builder Southern Triple Action

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What We Like

• Helps lawns withstand heat and drought
• Large coverage area of up to 8,000 square feet
• High-nitrogen formula

What We Don’t Like

• Not safe for people and pets until fully watered in and dry
• Contains Atrazine

Product Specs 

• NPK ratio: 29-0-10
• Application: Active growth periods
• Grass type: St. Augustine, Floratam, zoysia, centipede, carpet grass

We understand that warm-season grasses need a weed and feed that can withstand heat and drought conditions while building a thick green lawn. Scotts Turf Builder Southern Triple Action is a 3-in-1 weed and feed made for southern lawns. It’s safe for use on St. Augustine, zoysia, centipede, and carpet grasses, but it’s not recommended for use on Bermuda grass. This product also contains an insecticide that targets fire ants, mole crickets, sod webworms, fleas, armyworms, and more, and it keeps them away for up to 6 months. 

Please note that this product wasn’t tested due to the geographic location of the tester.

Get the Scotts Turf Builder Southern weed and feed at Amazon, Tractor Supply Co., The Home Depot, or Walmart.

Best Liquid

Scotts Liquid Turf Builder With Plus 2 Weed Control

See It

What We Like

• Suitable for fertilizing and weeding in any season on any grass type
• Easy to apply
• Affordable
• Noticeably killed weeds after a single application

What We Don’t Like

• Contains 2,4-D

Our Ratings: Application 4/5; Feed Effectiveness 3/5; Weed Control 2.5/5; Value 1.5/5 

Product Specs 

• NPK ratio: 25-0-2
• Application: Spring or fall
• Grass type: Bahia, Bermuda, centipede, zoysia, Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass

Scotts Liquid Turf Builder weed spray lets users easily fertilize a lawn while killing dandelions and clover. One of this product’s best features is the ease of application. All that’s required is for the user to attach the applicator to a garden hose and apply this liquid weed and feed concentrate spray as needed. The process was easy during testing. The bottle has a clear strip so we could see how much we’d applied as we went along. That was helpful, as we applied it to a small area and didn’t want to use the entire bottle. 

Scotts weed and feed helps control buckhorn, chickweed, clover, dandelion, ground ivy, henbit, knotweed, and more. Scotts Liquid Turf Builder weed and feed spray can be used with almost any grass type during any season. When used as directed, it won’t burn the lawn and only requires one or two treatments per year. However, for those who don’t notice a change in weeds after one application, it can be applied again within 3 to 4 weeks. 

The brand says there should be a noticeable decline in weeds after a few days, but we didn’t notice weeds dying out until 3 weeks into testing. This was one of the few products that killed existing weeds. While it increased grass growth and deepened the green somewhat, it didn’t have the drastic health benefits for the grass as some of the other weed and feeds we tested.

Get the Scotts liquid weed and feed at Amazon, Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Or, DIY Your Own Weed and Feed

While there are many effective weed and feed products on the market, using commercial weed and feed can be expensive and harmful to the environment. A more natural solution is to make a DIY weed and feed using safe and effective ingredients. 

Mix 1 pound of corn gluten meal, 1 cup of Epsom salt, and 1 cup of dried lawn clippings to make your own weed and feed. Corn gluten meal acts as a natural pre-emergent herbicide that prevents weed seeds from germinating, while Epsom salt provides magnesium and sulfur to nourish the grass. Dried lawn clippings act as a slow-release fertilizer that provides nutrients for healthy lawn growth. By using this natural DIY weed and feed, users can maintain a beautiful and healthy lawn without harming the environment.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Tested the Best Weed and Feed

We created a numbered grid using marking paint and stakes, and one weed and feed fertilizer was applied in each square. The exception was the liquid weed and feed, which required application in a larger area; it was applied to a 100-square-foot area next to the grid. 

We calculated how much weed and feed to spread in each square based on the manufacturer’s instructions so that we didn’t over- or under-fertilize. The space was small enough that we spread the fertilizers by hand to prevent them from mixing. We then took pictures upon application and once a week for 4 weeks. Each weed and feed was scored according to a rubric based on how much product it required, how well it performed, and the ingredients. We also considered the eco-friendliness of each fertilizer, looking for nontoxic options and also pet-friendly weed and feed. 

What to Consider When Choosing Weed and Feed 

Not every weed and feed formula works on every type of grass or in every climate. You need to keep in mind the type of grass, the weed species you want to target, and fertilizer ingredients. Different weed and feeds are also designed for application during different seasons to provide nutrients the grass needs at specific stages of the growth cycle and to better target weeds when they’re at their most vulnerable. 

Weed and Feed Type

Weed and feed can be divided into several types. The first is between natural and chemical weed and feeds. Natural weed and feeds may be organic (but not always) and often contain cornmeal as a natural weed preventative and grass fertilizer. These weed and feeds do not contain synthetic chemicals. 

Chemical weed and feeds can be further divided into pre- and post-emergent weed and feeds. Pre-emergent weed and feeds contain chemicals that prevent weed seeds from germinating. They do not target already existing weeds. Post-emergent weed and feeds contain chemicals that target existing weeds while fertilizing grass. However, some products (like BioAdvanced 5-in-1 Weed & Feed, our upgrade pick), contain chemicals that affect both pre- and post-emergent weeds. 

Grass Type

The best weed and feed product for a lawn depends on the grass type. Grass species have different nutrient requirements, so not all products are safe for every species of grass. Using the wrong weed and feed can stunt growth, burn, or further damage the grass. In general, grass species are divided into two categories: warm season and cool season. The seasons do not refer to the time of year but the climate and average soil temperature range. 

• Warm-season turfgrasses grow best with average soil temperatures between 80 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Warm-season grasses thrive in the warmer climates of the southeastern and southwestern United States. They include Bahia, Bermuda, carpet grass, St. Augustine, and zoysia (Japanese lawn grass).
• Cool-season turfgrasses grow best with average soil temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Cool-season grasses thrive in the cooler climates of the Midwest and northern regions of the United States. Some cool-season grasses are Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall and hard fescue.

Selecting a weed and feed that’s compatible with the grass species will provide far better results.

NPK Ratio

To grow a lush lawn, your soil needs to have essential nutrients. Fertilizers temporarily add nutrients to the soil. Fertilizers typically list their nutrient ratios as an NPK formula. This denotation represents the percentage of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in the product. 

• Nitrogen (N) helps the grass grow properly and develop a green color.
• Phosphorus (P) helps develop strong root systems.
• Potassium (K) protects plants from disease, drought, and cold. 

There are at least 11 states that ban phosphorus fertilizer use or sale. Luckily, many lawn weed and feed manufacturers have adapted to this and removed phosphorus from their products. Don’t worry—the weed and feed will still green and thicken the grass without the additional phosphorus.

Fertilizers can also contain secondary elements and micronutrients needed for healthy growth, such as sulfur, calcium, magnesium, boron, iron, molybdenum, zinc, copper, chloride, nickel, and manganese. To find out exactly what nutrients the lawn needs, conduct a soil test. Either purchase a test for home use or take a soil sample to the local cooperative extension testing office. 

Natural vs. Synthetic

There are distinct differences between natural and synthetic weed and feeds. 

Natural and organic weed and feed products contain plant-based or mineral ingredients that are safe for the environment and human health. They nourish the soil and plants to make them more resistant to weeds and prevent weed seed germination. 

At this time, natural alternatives aren’t as effective as their synthetic counterparts. However, some users of natural weed and feeds report that they notice healthier grass and fewer weeds after using the products for several seasons. In short, it takes patience and consistency to see gradually improved lawn health. It also takes more of the product to fertilize, which increases the overall cost, but it’s often worthwhile for the long-term health of people and the environment. 

On the other hand, chemical-based products contain synthetic herbicides that quickly kill weeds and improve grass health. However, they may contain ingredients that hurt beneficial plants, insects, and wildlife. Two of the most commonly used herbicides, 2,4-D and Atrazine, have been linked to numerous health and environmental problems. 2,4-D is a hormone-disrupting chemical that can potentially cause cancer, congenital disabilities, and developmental issues in children. Atrazine is a highly toxic herbicide that can contaminate drinking water, cause congenital disabilities, and harm wildlife. 

Be careful when applying these products in areas with a shallow water table, as they have the potential to contaminate the water supply. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and keep children and pets off the lawn until the product has dried or worked its way into the grass/soil. 

Application

Weed and feed comes in two forms: liquid and granular. Liquid forms are simple to apply and kill weeds faster than the more economical, though slower-acting, granular forms. Weed killer spray or liquid weed and feed is designed for small yards. Granular weed and feed covers more area, often 5,000 square feet or more, and is often available in 18-pound bags and larger. Granular versions offer a better value, but users do need to water their lawns after application for the product to penetrate the grass.

FAQs

If you want a pet-safe weed and feed or are curious to know what type is best for killing stubborn weeds, read on for answers to these and other commonly asked questions.

Meet the Tester

Stacey L. Nash has written about home and garden products, home design and decor, and general indoor and outdoor home improvement for 5+ years. She’s passionate about research and hands-on testing to find the products that add true value to homeownership and daily life. She lives on 12 heavily wooded acres, where she and her family put home and outdoor products to the test while avoiding bears and cougars. 

Additional research provided by Debbie Wolfe. 

The post The Best Weed and Feed Products for Fewer Weeds and Greener Grass, Tested appeared first on Bob Vila.

Nearly half of American homes are at severe or extreme risk of facing at least one type of climate-related natural disaster, according to the 2024 Realtor.com Housing and Climate Risk Report. This includes damage from floods, hurricane winds, wildfires, extreme heat, or hazardous air quality. Not only could this be devastating to your family and property, but it comes with a hefty price tag to repair and rebuild after a storm or other climate-related event.

Fortunately, there are several preventive measures you can take to safeguard your property so it is climate resilient. Consider pursuing the following hardscaping and landscaping projects to help with natural disaster protection.

1. Install permeable pavers.

As you add more hardscape materials like concrete patios to your yard, you can increase water runoff and erosion from the nonpermeable materials. Choosing permeable materials—which are porous so water can flow through them easily—for projects like pathways, patios, and decks can lessen runoff. 

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, such materials include pervious asphalt, interlocking pavers, pervious concrete, gravel, mulch, and plastic grid pavers, which allow rain and snowmelt to drain more easily into the soil during a storm. The ground absorbs the water, which decreases the burden on storm drains. This helps minimize water pooling and prevent flooding and water damage, especially during and after heavy rainfall. 

2. Design a landscaping windbreak.

The selection and placement of natural materials in your yard can help protect your property from strong winds. Referred to as landscaping windbreaks, these efforts can provide effective protection when the wind speed increases. A windbreak can reduce wind speed for a distance of as much as 30 times the windbreak’s height. Interestingly, windbreaks also lower heating costs by reducing the wind chill, or cooling effects of wind, on your house. 

To create an effective windbreak, you’ll need to identify the best trees, bushes, and shrubs for your local climate. The best foliage for a windbreak has low crowns that can slow wind speeds close to the ground. A mix of evergreens and deciduous trees is an effective option, and might include Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Arizona cypress (Hesperocyparis arizonica), Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa), Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis), and Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia).

Plant the greenery together in a clump to block wind from the ground up to the height of the trees. The best place to plant a windbreak is one or two tree heights away from your house on the side where winds are worst. The larger the tree, the farther you should plant it from the house. Never plant trees near power lines. Dense trees and shrubs, combined with a wall, fence, or earth berm, can stave off or lift the wind all the way over the house.

3. Build a retaining wall.

Consider building a durable retaining wall to protect your home from flooding. Retaining walls are typically constructed out of reinforced concrete blocks, gabion, stacked stones, brick, rammed earth, or steel. The wall creates raised sections of the yard that serve as a strong barrier. By redirecting rainwater away from your property, a retaining wall helps keep flood water at bay to prevent basement leaks and other types of water damage to your home. 

Retaining walls also can prevent soil erosion. They stabilize slopes and help keep soil in place; eroded soil is a significant contributor to flooding, especially during heavy rain. By stopping erosion, the wall minimizes the amount of sediment that could block drainage systems or make flood conditions worse.

Retaining walls are a good investment overall. In addition to helping with long-term water management in your yard, their design can add an attractive hardscaping feature that enhances curb appeal. Given the complexity of building a retaining wall, it’s advisable to hire a pro to handle the job.

4. Create defensible space through firescaping.

Another way that vegetation in your yard can play a role in protecting your home is through firescaping. This approach involves designing fire-resilient landscaping around the perimeter of your home to reduce risks from wildfires in what’s referred to as a defensible space. 

Defensible space consists of multiple layers, or zones, that make it easier for firefighters to put out a blaze. 

• Zone 0: This zone consists of the nearest 5 feet that surround your home; it should be free of dead or dying plants and any combustible items like wood piles or flammable outdoor furniture. Choose hardscaping materials such as pea gravel or decorative rocks, as opposed to combustible mulch or bark for shrub beds.
• Zone 1: This is the area within 30 feet of your house that allows firefighters to tackle the fire. In addition to close hardscaping, plant low-growing and less-dense foundation shrubs, such as azaleas and boxwoods, and keep trees away from your house. 
• Zone 2: This area extends 100 feet from your home and should include trees and shrubs that are thinned out, along with wide paths that create firebreaks. 

5. Add a rain garden.

Another way to minimize flooding is to build a rain garden in your yard, which is a garden strategically designed to collect and filter stormwater runoff from roofs, driveways, and other impervious surfaces. A rain garden design includes layers of soil, mulch, and native plants with deep root systems that help slow the flow of water. This way, the water seeps into the ground rather than pooling in the yard, overwhelming storm drains, or soaking areas by the house that can damage the foundation. Trees, grasses, ground covers, and shrubs are all part of an effective—and attractive—rain garden. 

The post Is Your Yard Disaster-Proof? 5 Projects That Could Protect Your Home appeared first on Bob Vila.

If they’re properly sharpened, power hedge trimmers are a great time saver over manual trimmers for maintaining neat hedges and other landscaping. If your power trimmers are continually getting jammed and are chewing instead of slicing through branches, however, it’s probably time to sharpen the blades.

As is the case with lawn mower blades, knives, and other sharp implements, you can bring trimmers in for professional sharpening, but you can save money by handling this job yourself. Follow the simple steps below on how to sharpen hedge trimmers.

Why It’s Important to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers

Sharpening your hedge trimmers allows you to make quick work of that pruning job, plus it contributes to the health of your plants. “Letting your trimmers go dull is like trying to cut steak with a butter knife,” says Bryan Clayton, a longtime landscaper and CEO of GreenPal, a company that matches homeowners with landscaping services. He says with dull blades, “You’ll end up tearing your hedges rather than cutting them cleanly, which can lead to unhealthy plants prone to disease.”

RELATED: AUDIO: Bob Vila Explains How to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers

Best Power Hedge Trimmer

Black+Decker 20V Max Cordless Hedge Trimmer, $64.98 at Lowe’s. This Black+Decker tool can cut through branches 3/4 inch in diameter. It has a padded front handle and enough battery power to trim up to 3,000 square feet. 

To discover other top-performing tools in this category, read our tested guide to the best hedge trimmers,

How often should you sharpen your hedge trimmers?

While you don’t need to sharpen your hedge trimmers often, you’ll need to give them a little TLC every now and then. “A good rule of thumb is to sharpen them at the start of the season, then check them every 50 hours of use,” Clayton says. It’s worth the time, he says, since “dull blades make your job harder.”

There are telltale signs that your hedge trimmer has dull blades:

• Frequent jams: If branches and foliage are getting jammed in between the hedge trimmer’s teeth, it’s likely because the blades aren’t sharp enough to cut through the material.
• Ragged cuts: Your hedge trimmer should cut cleanly through twigs and branches. If they’re chewing through them and leaving ragged cuts, then the blades are dull

Types of Hedge Trimmers

Power hedge trimmers come in several types, including gas, corded, and cordless electric models. Whether you own gas hedge trimmers, electric hedge trimmers, or battery-operated hedge trimmers, you’ll use the same process to sharpen the blades.

Project Overview

Working Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour
Skill Level: Intermediate
Estimated Cost: $10 to $15

Before You Begin

Sharpening a hedge trimmer involves working around blades and filing, which can send metal shavings airborne. Take the required safety precautions before getting started. “Wear gloves and eye protection,” says Clayton. “Always unplug electric trimmers before you start, and for both types, make sure the trimmer is securely clamped down or held in a vise.” If you are maintaining battery-powered hedge trimmers, remove the battery.

How to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers the Right Way

Step 1: Clean the trimmer blades.

Hedge trimmer blades often end up clogged with sap and pieces of branches and leaves. Start by removing any debris that’s caught in the trimmer’s teeth. Spray the blade with a little WD-40 to break down any sap that’s stuck to the blade. Give it a few minutes for the solvent to work its magic, then use a cloth to wipe the blades clean.

Step 2: Misalign the trimmer blades.

If the blades are aligned over top of each other, you’ll need to misalign them to expose all the edges so you can access each one with the file. Use a flathead screwdriver to reposition the blades so that each one is accessible.

Step 3: Sharpen with a flat file.

Using your flat file, sharpen each blade individually.

• File in the direction of the cutting edge only. Don’t use a back-and-forth sawing motion, since a flat file is designed to remove material in one direction only.
• Filing using the correct angle is crucial to getting a sharp edge. Check your trimmer’s manual for the proper angle for the specific hedge trimmer.
• File with care. Removing too much metal from the blades can weaken them, making the trimmer unusable.
• Be consistent with the number of strokes you make on each blade to ensure they’re a consistent length when done. “Just focus on sharpening the top edge of each blade, maintaining the original angle, and whatever you do, don’t touch the flat bottom side,” Clayton says. “That’s your guide for keeping the cut accurate.” After sharpening one tooth, move onto the next until you’ve sharpened each one.

Step 4: Use a whetstone to remove burrs.

Run a whetstone over the sharpened blades to remove any burrs that formed during sharpening. Remember, the blades cut by sliding against each other like a pair of scissors, so removing burrs that can interfere with this action is crucial.

Step 5: Spray with resin solvent.

Sharpening your hedge trimmers also removes any corrosion protection that was on the blades. Before you put the hedge trimmers back into service, you’ll need to restore that protection by applying a resin solvent to the blades. Spray the solvent onto the blades and wipe off any excess resin.

Final Thoughts

While learning how to sharpen hedge trimmer blades isn’t difficult, there is some risk to doing it yourself. Over-sharpening the blades can weaken them, making your hedge trimmer unusable. “Sharpening hedge trimmers isn’t rocket science, but it does require a steady hand and a bit of know-how,” Clayton says. “If in doubt, taking them to a professional isn’t just playing it safe; it’s ensuring your tools last longer and perform better.”

The post How to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers appeared first on Bob Vila.

When searching for showstopping landscaping plants, many homeowners gravitate toward plants that bloom. But foliage doesn’t have to be merely backdrop scenery; it can take center stage. Through color, shape, or texture, some plants produce dramatic foliage that can sometimes rival flowers.

Foliage typically outlasts flowers, providing allure even when flowering plants aren’t in bloom. Foliage may also be a solution for shadier areas where flowering plants struggle, or it might complement modern architectural styles better than the bosomy blooms found in cottage gardens. Striking as their foliage may be, some plants also produce flowers, providing a one-two punch of beauty.

1. Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea)

Prized for its pop of color against an often-snowy winter background, the red twig dogwood is a four-season plant, producing fragrant white flowers in spring and, in summer, offering variegated foliage, which turns rose-red in autumn and is adorned with red berries, before falling to reveal its brilliant red branches.

A fast-grower, this shrub can get quite large—up to 9 feet tall and 12 feet wide—but can (and should) be pruned and even periodically trimmed to the ground to control growth. Red twig dogwood is easy to grow, even in boggy conditions, and is as popular with pollinators, and resistant to deer.

Best For: Moist areas that receive full to partial sun; can be a specimen or part of a thicket
Hardiness Zones: 2-7

2. Canna Lily (Canna)

Canna lilies add a tropical look to the garden. Reaching heights of up to 10 feet tall, they can also serve as a seasonal privacy screen, with their large, green-and-bronze striped or variegated banana-like leaves along tall stalks inducing tropical vibes. While they produce stems of showy lily-shaped flowers in red, orange, yellow, or salmon, the foliage itself is a powerful draw.

In northern zones, otherwise easy-to-grow canna rhizomes must be dug in late fall and stored. They can be re-planted in late spring. When planted in full sun, they reward the gardener with blooms all summer.

Best For: Garden beds, borders, containers, and sunny areas where tall plants are desired
Hardiness Zones: 6-10

3. Caladium (Caladium x hortulanum)

Considered an annual in northern gardens, caladiums offer a tropical touch of color with their large, translucent heart- or arrowhead-shaped leaves in green, red, pink, and white, with mottling or stripes created by dramatically conspicuous veining. These lovely landscaping can be brought indoors to overwinter or tubers can be dug and stored for planting the following spring.

Capable of producing tiny flower spikes, their foliage, which lasts throughout the growing season, is the main attraction. Best suited for partial shade, caladiums are ideal for borders and containers. But they come with a caution: they’re toxic to cats, dogs, and horses.

Best For: Partial shade, borders, containers, indoors or out
Hardiness Zones: 9-11

4.  Rex Begonia (Begonia rex-cultorum)

With large swirled, spotted, spiraled, ruffled, or winged leaves in shades of green, red, silver, and purple, who needs flowers? Except that Rex begonias, sometimes known as painted-leaf begonias or fancy-leaf begonias, do produce dainty little flowers that add to this fibrous plant’s charms.

What doesn’t add to its charm is its fussiness. They need bright indirect light: too little light forces dormancy, while too much burns. They like regular water, but too much causes leaf drop, withering and ultimately, death.

These small plants grown from rhizomes can be rewarding, but are toxic to people and pets.

Best For: Shady flower beds or potted plants, inside and out
Hardiness Zones: 10-12

5. Hosta (Hosta lancifolia)

Known for brightening shady corners around the yard, the herbaceous hosta is an easy-care perennial grown from rhizomes. It produces large leaves in a range of shapes, textures, and colors, including shades of green, gold, blue, and variegated patterns.

Capable of growing in full shade, hostas perform better when they receive at least some sun. Given adequate light, many varieties send up tall stalks of tiny purplish-white flowers, but it’s the foliage that is the true attraction. While deer love them and can devour mass plantings, hostas are toxic to pets.

Best For: Shady beds with rich, well-drained soil
Hardiness Zones: 3-9

6. Ornamental Kale (Brassica oleracea)

While other plants begin dying off in autumn, ornamental kale withstands temperatures as low as 5 degrees. Bred for looks over flavor, ornamental kale is nevertheless edible and may appeal to local wildlife, but its vibrant purples, roses, and whites on broad serrated, curly, or fringed leaves that form flower-like rosettes make ornamental kale a popular fall favorite.

Easily grown in sunny locations during the cooler spring and fall seasons, ornamental kale prefers the moist, well-drained soil conditions consistent with those times of year. Spreading up to one foot wide, it grows only about 15 inches tall, making it an ideal low border plant. 

Best For: Ground cover, edging in cool weather
Hardiness Zones:  2-11

7. Dusty Miller (Jacobaea maritima)

Prized for its soft, silvery, deeply lobed leaves that adopt an almost fern-like quality, dusty miller is a common garden companion to brightly flowered annuals. An evergreen perennial in southern climes, it’s used as an annual in northern regions, where its fuzzy, feathery leaves add texture to the landscape.

Drought-tolerant, dusty miller prefers full sun, but tolerates partial shade. Capable of producing small yellow flowers, this low-maintenance plant is most often used for its neutral, complementary foliage. A well-behaved plant that doesn’t spread more than 2 feet, it is poisonous if ingested.

Best For: Borders, edging, containers
Hardiness Zones: 8-11

8. Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina)

Another silver siren of the garden, lamb’s ear is an herbaceous perennial known for its plump, fuzzy silver leaves. A fast-spreading, drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, low-growing (12 to 18 inches) groundcover, it adds pleasing texture to garden beds and pathways and acts as a contrasting neutral to bright blooms of companion plants.

Best grown in full sun, this fuzzy-wuzzy tolerates partial sun as well as poor soil, but it doesn’t like too much dampness. Although new cultivars don’t bloom, older varieties may produce small flower spikes of pink, purple, or white in spring and summer.

Best For: Groundcover, garden beds, edging
Hardiness Zones: 4-9

9. Coral Bells (Heuchera sanguinea)

A short-lived perennial foliage plant native to North America, coral bells are available in numerous varieties and hybrids. In general, the plant develops into round mounds with a crown at its base. Lobed leaves may be green, bronze-green, lime green, gold, deep purple, or wine-red, particularly on the underside, which produces a vivacious effect in a breeze.

Given partial sun to full shade and consistently moist soil, these small (6 to 18 inch tall) plants produce masses of small, delicate, almost airy red or pink bell-shaped flowers on tall stems in spring or early summer. 

Best For: woodlands, rock gardens, borders, containers, groundcover
Hardiness Zones: 4-9

10. Pink Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris)

Pink muhly grass, also called pink hair grass, makes a statement with its masses of pink flower panicles gently blowing in the wind atop 3-foot-tall dark green clumping foliage. “Ornamental grasses provide a soothing sound throughout your landscape, especially on a breezy day,” observes Matt Morelli, region technical manager for TruGreen. “Not only do they sway in the wind, these grasses can also provide privacy, depth, and character to the landscape with very little maintenance requirements.”

The pink plumes provide late season color, but the bushy grass adds interest all year. Grown best in full sun, this deer-resistant, native ornamental grass thrives in even the poorest soils.

Best For: Sunny spaces with good drainage
Hardiness Zones: 5-11

11. Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium)

Jacob’s ladder’s fern-like, purple-flushed leaves make it a garden focal point, whether it’s in bloom or not. It’s a shade-loving perennial that produces clusters of fragrant, dainty, deep blue bell-shaped flowers in the spring. 

A low-maintenance plant, Jacob’s ladder likes moist but not soggy soil. At only about a foot tall and twice as wide, it has the appearance of a woodland shrub that is, fortunately, wildlife-resistant. Sometimes called Creeping Jacob’s ladder, it self-seeds, but is not an aggressive spreader.

Best For: Shady or partially shady woodsy areas with moist soil
Hardiness Zones: 4-8

The post 11 Plants That Look Stunning in a Home Landscape With or Without Blooms appeared first on Bob Vila.

As you approach spring landscaping chores, you might be considering adding a dogwood tree to your yard. But, when do dogwoods bloom? They typically flower between early spring and early summer, depending on the species and the climate it inhabits. Many also offer colorful drupes and fall foliage after the “dog and posy” show.

Their common name may derive from dagwood—not the comic strip character but the branches once used to skewer meat. Types of dogwood trees vary from the 6- to 12-inch miniature dogwood “tree” known as bunchberry to the giant dogwood, which can reach 60 feet. Their flowers also vary from large “blooms” composed mostly of leaf bracts to tiny blooms in clusters. 

1. Cornelian Cherry Dogwood or European Cornel (Cornus mas)

Named for its “cherries,” oblong red drupes, rather than for its flowers, the European Cornelian Cherry Dogwood can bloom during winter in the mildest areas of its range. However, it usually produces its tiny yellow flowers in small clusters in early spring before foliage appears. Its edible but tart ½ to 1 inch long fruits ripen to red in midsummer and are most often used in jellies.

This dogwood shrub has typical oval dogwood leaves whose fall color can vary from dull green to the purplish-red more common with Cornus species. It will sucker, which can be a good thing if you want a hedge, but you can prune the shrub into a tree shape instead if you prefer. Choose Golden Glory for more prolific bloom or Variegata for variegated foliage.

Hardiness Zones: 4 to 8
Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet 

2. Dwarf Dogwood or Bunchberry (Cornus or Chaemaepericlymenum canadensis) 

The dwarf dogwood tree isn’t actually a tree but a native woody ground cover that usually doesn’t surpass 1 foot in height. It begins to flower in late spring and sometimes persists blooming until midsummer. As with most dogwoods, its “petals” actually are colored leaf bracts—white in this case—while the true flowers are the bracts’ greenish centers.

The bracts are followed in late summer by clusters of edible ¼-inch red drupes. Bunchberry grows in either partial shade or dappled shade in a woodland-like setting where it won’t be trampled underfoot. According to Clemson Cooperative Extension, “Dogwoods prefer moist, well-drained, acidic soil that is high in organic matter.”

Hardiness Zones: 2 to 6
Mature Height: ½ to 1 foot

3. Eastern or Flowering Dogwood (Benthamidia or Cornus florida)

Clemson Extension notes that the flowering dogwood tree “is the species most people think of when the word dogwood is mentioned.” In other words, it is top dog! Flowering dogwood characteristics include 3- to 6-inch “blooms,” each made up of four notched white, pink, or yellow leaf bracts surrounding the true yellow-green flowers at their center.

Those “blooms” appear in mid to late spring before the trees’ leaves, followed by clusters of nontoxic but bitter drupes that redden along with the foliage in early to mid-autumn. According to Jenny Rose Carey, author of Glorious Shade, “If you are encouraging wildlife to your garden, this is a must-have tree. Birds and other animals love the fruits. I refer to them as an ‘energy bar’ for migratory birds returning to their winter residences.”

This species, which prefers partial shade, is prone to fungal diseases. Resistant cultivars include Appalachian Spring and Appalachian Joy.

Hardiness Zones: 5 to 9
Mature Height: 15 to 30 feet

4. Chinese Evergreen or Strawberry Dogwood (Cornus capitata subsp. angustata) 

Although most dogwoods are deciduous, the leathery leaves of the Chinese Evergreen type can persist through winter in Zones higher than 6, but are more likely to turn reddish green and drop during winter in Zone 6 and lower. Its 3- to 6-inch late spring and early summer “blooms” offer un-notched leaf bracts surrounding the true yellow-green flowers, so the blooms appear more star-shaped than the earlier blooming Benthamidia (Cornus) florida’s cross-shaped ones.

This evergreen’s flowers are followed by roundish strawberry-like fruits, which ripen to red. NCSU Cooperative Extension admits that those fruits “are technically edible but are better left to the birds.” Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends “complete, acid-forming organic fertilizers” for dogwoods, applied in mid-spring and, 6 weeks later, in early summer.

Hardiness Zones: 6 to 9
Mature Height: 12 to 20 feet

5. Giant Dogwood (Cornus or Swida controversa) 

Native to the Orient and one of the tallest of the dogwood tree varieties, this species can reach 45 feet with its branches held horizontally like the tiers of a wedding cake. Its white flowers, on the other hand, are very small but produced in large 3- to 7-inch clusters in late spring to early summer, followed by blue-black fruits in late summer. Those fruits attract birds and other animals but are considered inedible for humans.

As with most dogwoods, the tree can thrive in either full sun or partial shade. For a white wedding cake look, choose the variegated cultivar (Variegata). If you prefer dark green leaves and orange/red fall color, select June Snow.

Hardiness Zones: 5 to 8
Mature Height: 35 to 45 feet

6. Kousa or Chinese Dogwood (Cornus kousa or Benthamidia japonica)

Like the eastern type, this nonnative dogwood makes 3- to 6-inch white or pink blooms. However, they have pointed rather than notched petals and appear about a month after those of Cornus florida, in late spring to early summer once the trees have leafed out. Those flowering trees also produce raspberry-like pinkish-red fruits that are edible. Their fall leaf color varies from purple to red to yellow. Kousa is more sun-loving than the eastern dogwood and also more disease-resistant, making it one of the most vigorous dogwood flowering trees.

For that reason, Chinese dogwood often has been crossed with C. florida to produce cultivars that offer the best traits of both species. Purely kousa cultivars include the variegated dogwood tree Summer Fun, as well as Moonbeam, which has unusually large 7-inch flowers.

Hardiness Zones: 5 to 8
Mature Height: 20 to 30 feet

7. Pacific or Western Dogwood (Cornus nuttallii) 

The western dogwood native to the Pacific Northwest and California resembles the eastern one, but it is less hardy, and its “blooms” often offer six to eight white pointed leaf bracts—rather than four notched ones—clustered around the greenish or purplish true flowers at the center. It also may bloom twice, once in spring before the tree leafs out and again in late summer or fall, with flowers up to 6 inches across. Of its pinkish-red fruit, Calscape notes that “Though edible, it is not very palatable.’

Unfortunately, the western dogwood shares the eastern dogwood’s vulnerability to anthracnose and also often is crossed with C. kousa for greater disease resistance. Fall foliage may be yellow, red, or pink. Cultivars include Colrigo Giant with 6-inch flowers and the yellow variegated Goldspot.

Hardiness Zones: 7 to 9
Mature Size: 15 to 40 feet

8. Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus or Swida alternifolia)

Except for the fact that it is native to North America, the pagoda dogwood might be considered a shorter version of the Oriental giant dogwood. It too offers tiered branches and tiny white blooms in clusters in late spring and early summer followed by bitter blue-black berries in mid to late summer and red foliage in autumn.

The Pagoda dogwood generally tops out at about 25 feet and its flower clusters measure only about 2 to 3½ inches across.  So, this small dogwood tree fits into the backyard landscape more easily than the giant one does. Its variegated cultivars include Argentea and Golden Shadows.

Hardiness Zones: 3 to 7
Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

9. Redtwig or Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus or Swida sericea or stolonifera)

Popular as a winter shrub for its red stems that stand out against the snow (though a few cultivars offer yellow stems instead), this osier is native to North America and typically inhabits somewhat boggy locations. Therefore, it may make a good choice for a poorly draining area of your yard where nothing else will grow.

This dogwood bush produces clusters of small white flowers in late spring and early summer followed by bitter drupes in late summer. According to North Carolina Extension, the edible white fruits with blue tinge “are attractive to birds and hold even more ornamental value than the flowers.” Also ornamental is the red or orange fall foliage which darkens to purple. This fast-growing shrub tends to spread rapidly via underground stems, so it could become invasive if not kept in check. Choose Baileyi for particularly vivid red stems, or Flaviramea for golden-yellow stems.

Hardiness Zones: 2 to 7
Mature Height: 5 to 9 feet

10. Tatarian or Red-Barked Dogwood (Cornus or Swida alba)

Tartarian Dogwood might be called the Asian form of Redtwig Dogwood, since it shares most of the characteristics of that species, including the red stems, clusters of white flowers, and white drupes. In both species, younger stems offer the reddest hues, so it’s a good idea to remove about a fourth of the older ones in spring for better color in winter. Both can be used as either full sun shrubs or partial shade shrubs.

Missouri Botanical Garden agrees that Tatarian dogwood is similar in appearance to redtwig dogwood, “but generally does not spread as aggressively.” Cultivars of this dogwood shrub include the variegated Elegantissima and the smaller-than-usual Sibirica, whose height tops off at about 7 feet.

Hardiness Zones: 3 to 7
Mature Height: 8 to 10 feet

The post 10 Types of Dogwood Trees to Beautify Your Yard Year-Round appeared first on Bob Vila.

Trees can provide shade, privacy, and add a unique aesthetic to the home, but if a tree is diseased, damaged, showing signs of falling, or simply blocking a great view, DIYers can remove the issue by felling a tree. Though, it’s important to mention that in some areas, the homeowner will need to get a permit before cutting trees, even in their own yard.

For those with the right tools, skills, and enough relevant DIY experience, learning how to cut down a tree can help manage their property and eliminate potential risks before they can become a true hazard to structures or people. However, due to the sheer size and bulk of most trees, this job can be highly dangerous. Use this guide to learn how to fell a tree safely.

Project Overview

Working Time: 2 hours
Total Time: 4 hours
Skill Level: Intermediate
Estimated Cost: $220 to $360

Before You Begin

Protective equipment is necessary for a wide range of home DIY projects, and an important consideration when planning how to fell a tree. While it’s essential to avoid the falling trunk of the tree, falling branches also can pose a significant risk, so it’s recommended to have a quality chainsaw, wear a full chainsaw helmet, with a built-in face shield and hearing protection. 

In addition, DIYers should wear some of the best work gloves to safeguard their hands while they fell a tree. It may be a good idea to invest in kevlar chaps, as well as a pair of durable work boots to protect their legs and feet from chainsaw grazes. 

How to Cut Down a Tree

Learning how to fell a tree can help maintain the yard, but is also a useful skill for cutting down your own Christmas tree or splitting wood for the fireplace. Follow the steps provided below to find out how to inspect the condition of the tree, plan the felling zone, and safely fell a tree with wedges.

Step 1: Check whether it’s safe to cut down the tree.

Before cutting down a tree, it’s necessary to learn how to identify a dangerous tree to avoid injury to yourself, bystanders, and your surroundings. Start by examining the angle of the tree. If it is leaning significantly in one direction, it will be difficult to control the fall, so it’s best to call in the pros, who can manage the tree using specialized equipment.

Similarly, if the tree has dead branches still attached or that are being supported by other branches, they may fall on you while you are cutting the tree, another DIY safety consideration. Also, if the tree is located in a small backyard with nearby obstacles, like buildings, fences, or even power lines, this job should be handled by a crew of professionals. Otherwise, the tree may destroy the fence, get tangled in the power lines, or even fall on the house. 

Step 2: Determine the felling zone.

After verifying whether it’s safe to cut down a tree, the next step is to determine the felling zone. The felling zone refers to the path where the tree will fall, and it needs to be free of structures, roads, and other trees to avoid causing any unnecessary damage or creating a domino-like effect in the area.

Estimate the height of the tree, then mark out a corresponding felling zone using a tape measure. The area from the base of the tree to where the top of the tree will land is the felling zone, though experts often recommend at least doubling the estimated height. You should also take this time to determine two escape routes on the opposite side of the felling direction that will allow you to safely retreat when the tree falls (at 45-degree angles from the trunk). Keep in mind that falling objects are one of the top reasons DIYers visit the E.R., so it’s necessary to take proper precautions before you begin.

Step 3: Clear the surrounding area.

Even if you are only cutting down a small tree, it’s important to clear the area as much as possible, including the felling zone and two escape routes. Cut away the brush from around the trunk of the tree, clear any shrubs, clear away items like outdoor furniture, and ensure that there aren’t any buildings or other structures that could be damaged while felling the tree. Additionally, it’s a good idea to pick up any sticks or stones that could become a tripping hazard while you are retreating from the falling tree. 

Step 4: Plan the notch.

A directional notch forms a weak point in the bottom of the trunk that determines which way the tree will fall when the felling cut is made. When done correctly, the tree will fall in line with the notch. Without a directional notch to direct which way the tree will fall, you will be left guessing where it will land. 

For inexperienced DIYers, it can help to wrap a chalk line horizontally around the lower part of the tree where you plan to cut the notch in order to keep the cuts on track. Determine the best direction for the tree to fall and make a mark on the trunk facing that direction.

Step 5: Cut the notch.

Before cutting into the tree, make sure you sharpen the chainsaw and inspect the tool for any problems. When you are satisfied that the chainsaw is in good working condition, make the first notch cut starting a foot or so above the chalk line and cut downward at a 70-degree angle until reaching the chalk line. Aim for the first cut to end up about one-third of the way into the trunk.

Make the second cut of the notch along the horizontal chalk line until it meets the bottom edge of the first cut. Use a hammer, maul, or mallet to knock the cut piece of wood out of the tree trunk. If you are having difficulty, use the chainsaw to widen the horizontal cut until the chunk of wood falls out on its own. 

Step 6: Add wedges, if necessary.

Wedges can be used to help prevent the chainsaw from getting pinched while you cut. They aren’t necessary for smaller trees, with less weight and girth, but if the diameter of the tree is more than 18 inches, it’s a good idea to use wedges. 

If you are felling a tree that is greater than 18 inches in diameter, start by making the notch cut, then begin the felling cut, but stop cutting as soon as the blade is far enough into the tree to insert the wedges. Lock the chain brake and leave the chainsaw bar in the cut with the saw running while you use a hammer or maul to tap in the wedges.

Step 7: Make the felling cut.

Felling a large tree is a task too big for a single person. The best way to ensure a safe fall is to have a reliable assistant known as a lookout. The lookout should stand a few feet behind the person who’s felling the tree and communicate emergencies using a pre-planned series of taps rather than verbal cues (which cannot be heard). If a problem occurs, the lookout should tap on the DIYer’s shoulders with a stick or broom handle to warn them.

When you are ready, get in position to cut the tree from the side opposite of where the direction notch is located. Begin cutting along the horizontal line indicated by the chalk marking. As the chainsaw blade gets closer to the notch, the tree will become unstable and may rock or lean slightly. This is normal. 

Keep the chainsaw blade horizontal and continue cutting. When the tree begins to fall, stop cutting, lock the chain brake, and back up in the direction of the previously determined escape route. Make sure to keep your eyes on the tree until it lands to avoid any unfortunate surprises.

Step 8: Remove branches and saw the trunk Into firewood.

After felling the tree, you will need to cut it into pieces for proper storage, use, or disposal. Start by cutting the branches off the lower end of the trunk and work your way to the top. When possible, it’s recommended to stand on the uphill side of the tree to reduce the risk of it rolling on top of you. 

Once the tree branches have been removed, you can begin cutting the trunk (and removed branches) into short pieces for use as firewood. Saw about three-fourths of the way through the log before rotating it to complete the cut. 

FAQs

The post How to Fell a Tree appeared first on Bob Vila.

Trees add great beauty to your landscape and their shade can help keep cooling costs low. But when a tree outgrows its location or is seriously damaged in a storm, it becomes a hazard that should be removed, and chopping it down is only half the battle.

A tree’s underground root system can extend up to 20 feet deep in ideal soil conditions, and spread over an even greater area. The roots can continue to grow even after the trunk is gone; if they’re too close to your sewer line or foundation, they can cause serious damage. Killing the roots can avoid potential problems down the road.

One common way to kill tree roots is one that the BobVila.com staff does not support: using the chemical herbicide glyphosate, the active ingredient in RoundUp, on the roots and tree stump. We never recommend the use of this herbicide. Instead, we urge readers to seek out more environmentally solutions to lawn and garden problems.

How to Kill Tree Roots Using Rock Salt

Although it takes long time to work, rock salt can effectively kill tree roots by robbing them of water.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Rock salt
Water
Drill with a 1-inch or larger drill bit

Step 1: Drill holes into the tree’s trunk and roots.

Bore several holes 3 to 4 inches deep into the cut surface of the tree trunk. Make several additional holes into any larger roots that are exposed near the ground.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When we bought our house the front yard had one beautiful tree and one stump. After removing the stump there were still quite a few roots, so we took an unconventional approach: We built up a fire pit [over the roots], and for two years we had bonfires there. After two years, between the fire and the natural decomposition process, it was easy to just lift out the remaining dead roots and repair the lawn. I live in Minnesota where bonfires are permitted on the front lawn so it wasn’t an issue.”

—Amber Guetebier, Contributing Writer

Step 2: Fill the holes with rock salt and water.

Sprinkle rock salt into the holes you’ve bored, and then pour water into the holes. The rock salt solution is harmful to surrounding vegetation and toxic to pets, so take care to avoid overfilling the holes. Repeat this process several times over the course of a few months, and eventually the rock salt will kill the tree roots. (You’ll know the roots are dead when there is no longer any regrowth from the trunk.)

If you are worried that the roots have invaded a sewer line or your foundation, you can also try digging the larger tree roots out of the ground. It’s an arduous process, but once you remove them you can reclaim your lawn.

The post How to Kill Tree Roots Naturally appeared first on Bob Vila.

If it’s time to replace your old lawn mower, then chances are you’re weighing the pros and cons of going with an electric or gas-powered model. Gas still offers the most grass-cutting power and longest runtimes, making this type of mower the clear choice for those with larger yards. But for most homeowners, cordless electric is the way to go. With advancements in battery technology, most cordless mowers have a runtime approaching an hour, ample time for mowing the average 1/4-acre yard on a single charge. Plus, they’re far easier on the environment, quieter, and easier to operate and maintain. Not sure whether gas or electric is the right mower for your yard? Ahead, we break down all the factors you need to consider when choosing between these two types of lawn mowers. 

Types of Lawn Mowers

• Push mowers: Push mowers come in corded and cordless electric models and gas models. They have cutting decks that are about 20 inches wide and require you to provide the force to push them forward. 

• Self-propelled: Self-propelled lawn mowers, which come in both electric and gas powered models, are just like their push mowers, only they have motorized wheels that pull them forward, so you don’t have to push them. They’re a great option for lawns with slopes, those who may physically struggle to push a mower, or those with larger yards to mow. 

• Riding: Riding lawn mowers come in two varieties, lawn tractors and zero-turn mowers, both of which are designed to handle larger yards that span a 1/2 acre or more. Both types are available in gas-powered and cordless electric models. 

Comparing Electric vs. Gas Lawn Mowers

When choosing between these two types of lawn mowers, it’s important to consider cost, run time, power, maintenance, and ease of use. We break down each of these factors below. 

Cost

Cost ranges significantly depending on a lawn mower’s power source. Corded electric lawn mowers are by far the cheapest options out there, with most ranging from $150 to $200, depending on the brand and deck size. 

Cordless models are pricier than corded models, with prices depending on the brand, deck size, and whether it’s self-propelled. A basic 20-inch walk-behind mower can range from around $300 to $700 with some self-propelled models with extra large decks running as high as $1,200, and batteries running $150 to $200. A battery-powered riding mower is significantly more expensive than walk-behind models, ranging from $4,000 for a lawn tractor up to $7,000 for a zero-turn riding mower, with batteries costing $150 to $400. 

Gas mowers, which also come in a variety of sizes and types, also run the gamut when it comes to price. Except to pay between $300 and $800 for a walk-behind gas powered mower, again depending on brand, deck size, and whether it’s self-propelled. Some super high-end models with wide mowing decks can reach as high as $1,600. Gas riding mowers range from $2,000 for a small riding tractor up to $4,000 for a zero-turn riding mower. 

Run Time 

When considering whether a gas mower or electric or electric is better for you, keep in mind that gas-powered lawn mowers have the clear advantage when it comes to runtime. You’ll get between 30 and 60 minutes on a cordless, battery-powered lawn mower, depending on the size of the battery, the voltage of the mower’s engine, and how hard it has to work to cut through the grass. Thicker, taller grass requires more power and hence drains the battery more quickly. You’ll get about 45 to 60 minutes of run time out of one tank of fuel of a gas lawn mower. 

The main difference with a corded lawn mower is that once the batteries are drained, you’ll need to wait for them to recharge before you can proceed, a process that can take 45 minutes to several hours. With a gas lawn mower, you can simply refill the tank and keep on mowing. For this reason, most battery-powered lawn mowers are limited to yards you can mow in less than an hour (which can vary depending on the size of the mower’s deck). 

“Gas mowers are just going to last longer and can therefore handle a bigger mowing job with a larger yard than an electric mower might,” says Ryan Farley, CEO of Lawnstarter, a company that matches lawn care services with homeowners. 

While corded electric mowers can run indefinitely, keep in mind that they’re limited in range and power. They’re only rated for extension cords up to 100 feet long, and the 120-volt outlet limits their deck size to a maximum of 20 inches. 

Power and Cutting Ability

While there are some battery-powered mowers that can match gas in cutting power, on average, gas lawn mowers are more powerful and have greater cutting ability than cordless electric models. While most gas lawn mowers have the muscle to cut through even thicker grass, not all cordless electric lawn mowers do. 

That said, advancements in battery technology have put some higher-end electric lawn mowers in the same league as gas powered models when it comes to toque. For example EGO, which makes some of the most powerful electric mowers, produces battery-powered push mowers that put out between 6 to 9 ft. lbs. of torque—on par with gas-powered mowers. 

“Gas mowers do have a more powerful cut, so they can provide a higher quality cut when you’re working with denser grass, weeds, etc,” Farley says. “But for your average lawn, I haven’t really noticed too much of a difference.” 

BV’s Top Gas and Electric Lawn Mowers

Best Gas Mower 

Honda HRN216VKA 21″ Variable Speed Walk-Behind Mower, $549 at The Home Depot 

This 21-inch lawnmower has a powerful, 170cc engine that sits atop an ample 21-inch deck. A simple clip system makes it easy to switch between mulching, bagging, and side discharge of grass clippings without needing to add or remove attachments. This Honda mower uses a rear-wheel drive for its propulsion system, which gives it superior ability to navigate uneven terrain and climb slopes. Handlebar controls make it a breeze to switch between the mower’s variable speeds.

See our researched guide to the best gas lawn mowers for more recommendations.

 

Best Electric Mower

Ego Power+ 21″ Self-Propelled Lawn Mower, $649 at Amazon

The Ego Power+’s 56V 7.5 amp-hour (Ah) battery produces up to an hour of runtime per charge and recharges within 60 minutes. Cutting power automatically increases when conditions get tougher; use a lever to adjust the self-propelled pace for optimum comfort. Choose from rear bagging, side discharge, or mulching with the included equipment. 

See our tested guide to the best electric lawn mowers for more recommendations.

Maintenance and Winterization

When it comes to lawn mower maintenance and winterization, electric models have the clear advantage. Beyond storing the batteries indoors in times of extreme cold or heat and occasionally sharpening the blade, electric mowers require virtually no maintenance. Gas-powered mowers are another story. You’ll need to periodically replace its spark plugs, change its oil and oil filter, and clean its air filter to keep your lawn mower running smoothly. You’ll also need to winterize the gas to prevent it from going stale if you plan to store the mower for a long period of time. 

Storage and Portability

Electric lawn mowers also have the edge when it comes to storage and portability. On average, gas mowers weigh 80 to 90 lbs. with an empty gas tank. Electric lawn mowers, in comparison, weigh 50 to 60 pounds, making them easier to maneuver and store. In fact, since electric lawn mowers don’t have a fuel tank, you can even store them vertically in your shed or garage to help save space. 

Noise and Ease of Use

An electric lawn mower’s light weight makes it easier to maneuver and use than a heavier gas-powered lawn mower. Electric mowers are also easier to start. Whereas most gas mowers have a pull starter that requires the operator to have a certain amount of strength to fire up the engine, electric lawn mowers have push-button starters that make starting them effortless. If you struggle to start or push a mower, then an electric mower is the best choice when it comes to electric vs gasoline mower.

If your neighbors are sleeping in on Saturday morning, you won’t make any friends if you crank up your old gas-powered mower that emits around 95 decibels of racket—comparable to the sound of a motorcycle running. 

Electric mowers (corded and battery operated) are much easier on the ears, producing between 65 to 75 decibels—similar to the sound of a washing machine running. “Electric mowers are known for making much less noise, so if you’re in pretty close quarters with a lot of neighbors, it can be courteous to spring for the quieter option,” Farley says. 

Environmental Impact

Gas-powered lawn tools, including lawn mowers, release dangerous pollutants, including carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxide, and a host of volatile organic compounds, into the atmosphere. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, off-road gas-powered equipment, such as chainsaws and lawn mowers, emit about 242 million tons of pollutants each year, with mowers accounting for about 40% of those emissions. 

Electric mowers, in comparison, have far less impact on the environment as both types of electric mowers create zero emissions. Rechargeable batteries for cordless mowers, however, do contain lithium, the mining of which has been known to pollute water supplies. If going green is your top priority, a corded electric mower is likely to have the least impact on the environment.

Keep in mind that depending on where you live, you may not have a choice between electric vs. gas lawn equipment. California banned the sale of gas lawn mowers beginning in 2024 as part of its Green Lawn Care Law. Cities such as Denver, Washington D.C., and Burlington, Vermont may soon follow suit. 

Pros and Cons of Electric Lawn Mowers

Best for:

• ¼-acre yards, or flat ½-acre yards with no obstructions 
• Those who may have difficulty using a pull starter or pushing heavier equipment
• California residents and environmentally conscious homeowners
• Those looking for a low-maintenance mower

Pros and Cons of Gas Lawn Mowers

Best for:

• Larger yards and 1/4-acre to 1/2-acre lawns with slopes and numerous obstacles
• Lawns with thick grass 

Are Gas or Electric Lawn Mowers Better?

Whether you should go with a gas or electric lawn mower really depends on the type of yard you have. “Smaller or average-sized yards without dense spots or weeds will do great with an electric mower,” Farley says. Cordless mowers have enough runtime for you to mow the entire yard on a single charge, are lower maintenance, and are easier to operate and store. Electric lawn mowers are also by far the more environmentally conscious way to go. 

That said, an electric lawn mower isn’t the best option for all lawns. If you have a lawn that’s larger than a 1/4 acre with slopes and various trees, landscaping beds and other obstacles to work around, you’ll likely need the longer runtime and raw cutting power that a gas mower offers. You may also want the superior cutting power offered by a gas mower if your lawn consists of thicker grass or if you like to let the grass grow longer between cuttings. 

“Gas mowers come with the advantage of having a more powerful motor,” Farley says. “There’s also no need to charge a battery, and they can run for longer than an electric mower.”

If you’re looking for a budget option, have a small yard that’s less than an acre and don’t mind the inconvenience of a power cord, then a corded electric mower is a viable option. 

The post Gas vs. Electric Lawn Mowers: Which Are Better? appeared first on Bob Vila.

Artificial grass made its big debut at the Astro Dome in 1966, hence the term Astroturf, but it’s come a long way since then. Once used only for professional sports fields, artificial grass is now a bona fide option for homeowners who want the look of a lush, green lawn without maintenance that provokes headaches.

Artificial grass requires no water or fertilizer, which makes it eco-friendly, and there’s no mowing required either. A lawn of artificial grass can last up to 15 years under heavy traffic, the only maintenance being an occasional spraying with the garden hose if you have pets (for obvious reasons!).

Professional installation of artificial grass can cost anywhere from $10 to $15 per square foot. But laying the turf, which costs between $2 and $8 per square foot, on an average-sized yard is a doable project if you’re game for some physical labor.

Check out this tried-and-true technique here for how to lay artificial grass!

Step 1: Remove grass from the area.

Remove whatever current turf you have. Use a spade or a sod-cutting machine (available to rent for about $100/day at a home improvement store) to pull it up. If a neighbor or friend can’t use it, dispose of the turf according to the organic waste removal rules in your community.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When laying artificial grass, I found that using a leaf blower to clear away sand and debris after spreading the builder’s sand and installing the turf made a huge difference in keeping the workspace clean and making sure the turf stuck properly. It’s quicker and more efficient than sweeping, and it helps prevent any leftover debris from getting trapped under the seams. Just be sure to hold the leaf blower at an angle to avoid disturbing the sand layer you just put down.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Step 2: Level the area.

You will need a level base on which to lay your artificial grass. Spread about 1 ½ inches of builder’s sand in the area to create a level surface, using a landscaping rake to distribute it evenly. Then, compact the sand with a tamper or 2 x 2 piece of plywood and a rubber hammer until it’s firm and level.

Step 3: Lay a weed barrier.

Lay down landscape fabric to reduce the chance of weeds growing up through the turf. Roll it out to cover the area completely, allowing the edges to overlap at any joints by several inches, and trim with a utility knife to secure it into place with landscaping staples every three or four feet.

Step 4: Lay the artificial turf.

Artificial grass has a “grain” to it, which means rather than standing straight up, it bends slightly at an angle. For the most natural look, roll it out so that the blades bend toward your home, making sure that all pieces are laid in the same direction.

If using more than one roll’s width of turf, it’s best to stagger the end seams so that they don’t line up in a row: They’ll be less visible and will wear better that way.

Trim any edges with a utility knife from the underside, being careful not to cut any of the turf.

Step 5: Join turf with jointing tape and adhesive.

Artificial grass generally comes in widths of 12 to 15 feet. If the space you’re covering is more than the roll’s width, you’ll need to join pieces together.

To do so, trim the edge of each of the pieces with a utility knife (from the back, being careful not to cut the turf) so that they will meet without overlapping. Then roll the pieces back and lay jointing tape underneath where the seam will be.

Apply artificial turf adhesive to the jointing tape, and lay the two turf pieces together, making sure that the seam matches up together, without overlapping.

Step 6: Nail the grass in place.

Using a rubber hammer, nail the artificial grass down with 7-inch lawn spikes. Space the nails about every 4 feet. Take care to spread the turf blades out and away from the base of the nail before you hammer it in. After nailing, brush the nap up around the nail to hide placement.

Step 7: Brush the lawn.

Once all the turf is installed, brush the entire lawn with a stiff-bristled broom to fluff up turf blades. If any sand went wayward during installation, hose the lawn down to remove it.

The post How to Lay Artificial Grass appeared first on Bob Vila.

Q: I can’t seem to figure out why my lawn mower won’t stay running. There’s plenty of gas and oil in it. Can it be repaired, or is it a lost cause?

A: Lawn mowers seem like simple machines, yet they require some TLC to operate smoothly—especially if they’ve been sitting in the shed for a while. A full gas tank and oil reservoir are the essential first steps when checking why the lawn mower won’t stay running, but the problem could also be a dirty filter, clogged carburetor, improper fuel mixture, or a dirty spark plug. If you’re ready to get your hands dirty, check out these troubleshooting tips to get your lawn mower running again. However, you may need a lawn mower specialist to get you back to trimming your grass. Alternatively, a landscaping professional can take care of it for you.

The fuel might be old and dirty and needs to be replaced.

Fuel that has sat in the motor for a while can evaporate and leave a sticky residue. The inlet and outlet ports leading to the carburetor could be clogged, as well as the fuel filter. In cold, wet winter seasons, condensation can collect inside the tank, which doesn’t mix with the fuel. Replace old, dirty, or diluted fuel; adding fresh fuel to it won’t solve the problem. Drain the old fuel out of the tank and collect it to be disposed of safely per local requirements. Clean off the carburetor ports before refilling the tank.

The air filter might be dirty, which prevents it from getting enough air.

Motors have air filters to collect and trap dust and debris that could clog the machine’s inner workings. Over time, they become clogged and need to be replaced. If an air filter isn’t working correctly, the motor can’t get enough air to prevent overheating. Inspect the air filter for carbon deposits or oil, and replace it if it’s contaminated. Paper filters always need immediate replacement if they’re contaminated, but a dusty foam filter could benefit from being washed and dried at least once before replacement. It’s recommended to replace the air filter after every 25 hours of use.

The carburetor might be clogged and dirty.

One inconvenient reason a lawn mower won’t stay running is a problem with the carburetor, which mixes the air and fuel for internal combustion. The carburetor bowl may be clogged, or the inlet and outlet ports are slimy from fuel residue. Remove them and spray them with an aerosolized carburetor cleaner (not water). You can try disconnecting the fuel lines and spraying them out with cleaner to remove any sitting sludge as well. Replacing the fuel filter is also recommended if the carburetor is showing signs of contamination. If the lawn mower has a gas cap vent, open it to clear any visible clogs. If none of these steps solve the problem, it’s worth having the carburetor replaced by a pro.

You forgot to reset the choke, so the fuel mixture is too rich.

Most lawn mowers have a choke to modify the fuel-to-air mixture, which keeps the engine running until it’s warmed up. Unless you’ve had cool weather for a while, the choke should be off to prevent overloading the motor with the wrong mixture of fuel. If the choke is left on for too long, excess fuel flows into the combustion chamber, causing it to seize up and stall. If this happens, the lawn mower will need to sit idle for several hours to allow the fuel to drain out of the chamber. Turn off the choke and try again later. If the problem still isn’t solved, a faulty choke switch could be the problem. Clean it with carburetor spray or replace it entirely.

A dirty spark plug is misfiring and needs to be replaced.

A faulty or dirty spark plug could be the reason your lawn mower won’t stay running. It might produce the initial spark, but the spark won’t be enough to keep the engine running if the plug is clogged with dirt and oil. Spark plugs are usually located on the front of a push lawn mower and connected to a black cable. Remove it with a socket wrench and clean with a wire brush and some brake cleaner. A dark, sticky carbon residue indicates a need to replace the spark plug. Especially if you have repeated times when the lawn mower won’t stay running, scheduling regular tune-ups can help keep spark plugs in great shape all year.

The post My Lawn Mower Won’t Stay Running. What’s Wrong With It? appeared first on Bob Vila.