Metal furniture and home decor items can last a long time, but they start to lose their appeal when their original paint job is looking less than spectacular. The good news is that it’s possible to strip the paint from metal so you can apply a new coat of paint in your current color scheme. 

While there are a range of shapes and sizes for household metal objects—from railings to side tables—there are several methods that can work to remove paint from them. Here are a few of the most effective ways of stripping paint from metal so it’s ready to be refreshed. 

Project Overview

Working Time: 2+ hours
Total Time: 2+ hours
Skill Level: Beginner
Estimated Cost: $10 to $50

Before You Begin

Painted metal can range from cabinet hardware to a metal door, so preparing for the project will depend on the painted metal object. No matter the size, select an area that is well-ventilated. It’s just as important to protect yourself, so don your rubber gloves, safety glasses, long-sleeved shirt, shoes, and pants to cover your skin completely. Then, avoid inhalation of fumes from the chemicals by opening all windows and wearing a respirator.

Before you remove metal paint, prepare the work area by covering the work surface and surrounding ground with drop cloths. If you want to save money on supplies, recycled newspapers or unfolded cardboard boxes can substitute as surface protection against the chemical stripper you’ll be using—just make sure not to leave any gaps between pieces. Paint dust and flecks can be tough to chase around later. 

7 Ways to Remove Paint From Metal

When considering which method to use to remove paint from your metal object, take note of the shape and size of the item. Some methods below are better suited for flat surfaces and others are best suited for small objects. No matter which you choose, make sure to protect your skin, eyes, and surrounding area from paint flecks and dust that could contain lead. 

1. Paint Scraper

Scraping paint from metal with a paint scraper can be a useful method for removing flaking paint from flat metal surfaces. Be mindful that softer metals may scratch more easily, so it’s important to use a plastic scraper and a lighter touch when using this method. It’s likely that you won’t be able to remove all of the paint with just a scraper, so another method may need to be used to help finish the job. 

SUPPLIES

Drop cloth
Paint scraper
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Cloth

1. Lay out the drop cloth and don protective gloves, eye protection, and mask. 
2. Take the paint scraper at an acute angle to the surface and push the scraping edge along the surface.
3. Repeat the scraping motion until all paint is removed. 
4. Wipe the surface clean with a cloth. 

2. Boiling Water

While boiling water can be a helpful way to loosen paint from metal surfaces, it’s another paint remover for metal method that isn’t practical for larger surfaces. Make sure to always wear heat-resistant gloves when removing metal from boiling water. 

SUPPLIES

Pot
Heat-resistant gloves
Paint scraper
Cloth

1. Put on heat-resistant gloves and boil water in the pot. 
2. Either pour boiling water over the object or submerge it in the boiling water.
3. After the paint begins to bubble on the metal surface, use a scraper to remove the paint. 
4. Wipe the surface of the object with a clean cloth.

Tried-and-True Advice

“In my experience, paint removal is sometimes the easiest part of the job. What nobody talks about is what to do with or how to manage the paint that comes off.

Take pressure washing, for example. Using an oscillating “turbo” type head, the water will blast into all kinds of nooks and crannies on a wrought iron railing or old table base and it’ll burst any loose paint off in seconds. And what happens next? The paint is dispersed all over everywhere for 10-15 feet around. It’ll pepper the driveway, the garage wall, the side of the house, whatever. It can be cleaned off, but now you have a second job.

Same with an angle grinder and flapper wheel. At 10,000-11,000-rpm for a 4 1/2-inch tool. That paint is a-flyin’. You’ll need a face shield at a minimum along with gloves, long sleeves and hearing protection (these are my favorite). The machine will murdilize the paint, turning it into a million pepper-sized pieces that’ll be hurled everywhere, including partially on you.

Chemical strippers are a challenge of a different sort. Paint is a solid before paint strippers are applied (this stuff is caustic—you’ll need glove and eye protection). Yes, strippers remove the paint, but before doing so, liquefy it, turning into a slurry-like sludge that gets everywhere. And, if you’re using it to remove many coats of paint, you may need multiple applications as it eats through however many layers it can eat through, then stops, leaving you with more paint to remove.

So, before stripping any finishes, figure out the reaction to the action first and decide which path is best for you, because you might just decide to find an old school dip-and-strip and let them handle it.”

—Mark Clement, Contributing Writer

3. Baking Soda or Vinegar

One way to ease paint from a metal surface is to use baking soda with boiling water. If you don’t have baking soda, white vinegar can be used in its place. While it’s an effective method for removing paint, it’s a process that’s best for smaller pieces. 

SUPPLIES

1. Add ¼ cup of baking soda to 1 quart of water in a disposable pot.
2. Turn on the burner and bring the mixture to a boil.
3. Place the painted metal object in the boiling water.
4. After about 10 to 15 minutes, the paint will likely start to lift from the surface.
5. Turn off the heat.
6. Put on heat-resistant gloves and remove the object from the pot.
7. With a stiff brush or scraper remove any remaining paint. 
8. Wipe the surface of the object with a clean cloth.

4. Heat Gun

Essentially, a heat gun will liquefy the paint on the surface enough so that it will be easier to scrape away with a paint scraper. Always start with the lowest setting and wear heat-resistant gloves. 

SUPPLIES

Heat-resistant gloves
Eye protection
Heat gun
Wire brush
Cloth

1. While wearing heat-resistant gloves and eye protection, turn on the heat gun to its lowest setting. 
2. Move the heat gun slowly across the surface. 
3. When the paint begins to crack and melt off the metal, use a wire brush or a paint scraper to remove the paint. 
4. Wait for the surface to cool and then wipe the metal surface with a clean cloth.

5. Drill

Sturdy and complicated surfaces like metal railings may require the flexibility offered by a drill with a wire wheel attachment to successfully remove paint. Wire wheels can be flat or brush-shaped, which offers the ability to attack both flat and spindly surfaces.

SUPPLIES

Drill
Wire wheel
Eye protection
Heat gun
Wire brush
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Cloth

1. Put on eye protection, mask, and gloves. 
2. Attach the wire wheel to the drill.
3. Turn on the drill at a low speed.
4. Apply the wire wheel to the surface of the painted metal, and work the wheel over the surface to remove the paint.
5. Wipe the debris off the surface with a cloth. 

6. Angle Grinder

An angle grinder in combination with a flap disc (flapper wheel) can be a good choice if you know the paint is not lead-based and there is a lot of paint to remove from the metal surface. Grinders spin up to 10,000 rpm, so be careful while using one and wear a face shield and gloves to protect your eyes and skin from flecks. 

SUPPLIES

Angler grinder
Flap disc (flapper wheel)
Eye protection
Heat gun
Wire brush
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Cloth

1. Put on eye protection, mask, and gloves. 
2. Attach the flap disc to the angle grinder. 
3. Turn on the angle grinder and hold with two hands.
4. Starting with a fine grit, apply the flap disc to the painted surface. Do not force the tool by pressing too hard. 
5. Increase the grit of the disc until the paint is gone. 

7. Paint Stripper

A seemingly easy way to remove paint is with a paint stripper. Older versions are notoriously odorous and not environmentally friendly. However, there are newer versions that are low-odor and made from more organic materials. 

SUPPLIES

Drop cloth
Paint-stripping gel
Disposable paint brushes
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Nylon brush
Mineral spirits

1. Pour a small amount of the stripper into a glass jar or metal can. Using a disposable paint brush, apply the chemical paint stripper to the metal, and let it set according to the instructions on your commercial stripper. As it sets, you should start to see the paint bubble up from the surface of the metal.
2. Wearing protective gear, take a paint scraper, and chip off the bubbled paint from all the flat surfaces of the metal. For crevices and harder-to-reach areas, switch to a scrubbing pad or nylon brush (you can use the one from Step 2, but first give it a good wash and trim the bristles short!) and continue to chip away. Reapply stripper and scrape or brush away again as needed until the whole piece is paint-free.
3. Next, dampen a rag with mineral spirits and wipe the surface down. This will remove any leftover flakes of lifted paint and the bulk of the remaining chemical residue. 
4. Thoroughly rinse off the metal with water to completely remove all traces of the stripper, then wipe it down using a fresh, dry rag. 

Tips for Removing Paint From Metal

Removing paint from metal surfaces can sometimes be an easy project; in other instances, it can be time-consuming and difficult. Make sure to take time to adequately set up the project area and gather everything you need, including personal protective equipment, before starting. Here are some more tips:

• Set up the project in a well-ventilated area.
• Protect the area with a drop cloth to collect the paint chips and dust.
• Always wear a face mask and gloves when removing paint from metal. 
• Use a plastic paint scraper on softer metal surfaces to prevent scratching. 
• You may need to use a combination of methods to remove all paint from a metal surface.
• Always try the easiest method before moving on to power tools and chemical stripping. 

Final Thoughts

Learning how to remove paint from metal surfaces will help save money and resources as you can refresh and reuse those household items. Depending on the size and shape of the metal object, one method may be better suited than another. Also, you may need to try a few methods before all of the paint is gone. If removing paint from a metal item is only the first step in a bigger upcycling project, you may want to learn more about the best paints for metal.

About the Author

Theresa Clement is a handy designer who has been improving homes for more than 20 years. A certified color expert, she is known for solving design dilemmas with paint, and has painted everything from metal and wood furniture to plastic hopper balls and gum balls to complete a look for a client. Starting with her work at architecture firms, she has authored DIY books; writes for Architect magazine, JLC magazine, and Remodeling magazine; and worked as a design producer on makeover shows. She now works with her carpenter husband on private homes and their home improvement brand, MyFixitUpLife. 

FAQs

The post How to Remove Paint From Metal appeared first on Bob Vila.

Spray an air freshener and it may mitigate bad house smells momentarily. But, plug-in air fresheners combat unpleasant odors continuously, masking or even eliminating them completely. These products come in a number of different formats and typically work by heating oil or wax to aerosolize or vaporize fragrances. Although air purifiers sanitize the air by filtering out dust, mold spores, pet dander, and more.

While choosing the best plug-in air freshener might seem like a simple decision, there are a number of considerations to weigh. Our favorite was the plug-in air freshener from Febreze because of its simple design and effective refills. This guide explores important features and considerations and some of the top products on the market.

1. BEST OVERALL: Febreze Odor-eliminating Plug Air Freshener
2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Air Wick Plug in Scented Oil Starter Kit
3. BEST ECO-FRIENDLY: Air Wick Botanica Plug in Scented Oil Starter Kit
4. BEST DIFFUSER: Pure Daily Care Ultimate Aromatherapy Diffuser Set
5. BEST AIR PURIFIER: LEVOIT Smart WiFi Air Purifier for Home
6. BEST MINI AIR PURIFIER: Germ Guardian Pluggable Air Purifier & Sanitizer
7. BEST FOR BATHROOM: Mindful Design Frosted Pagoda Wax Warmer Plug-In
   

Product Comparison

Our Top Picks

The following recommendations take into account the abovementioned factors and features for choosing the best plug-in air freshener, in addition to overall quality and value. Check out these top options in a variety of categories for eliminating unpleasant odors and controlling the air quality in your home.

Best Overall

Febreze Odor-eliminating Plug Air Freshener

See It

What We Like

• Refill cartridges
• Suitable for large and small spaces
• Compatible with horizontal and vertical outlets
• Compact and lightweight

What We Don’t Like

• Should not be used in enclosed areas with pets
• Cannot be used with extension cords
• Not compatible with wet or moist areas

This heated oil set from Febreze packs a serious punch—and some pleasant scents. It includes the plug-in warmer as well as one to two refill cartridges, each of which features two rotating, complementary scents that feature notes of lily and pear. Use the highest setting for large open spaces and the lowest setting for smaller rooms.

Each cartridge operates for 1,200 hours (approximately 50 days) at the lowest setting. The warmer is also compatible with all other versions of Febreze plug-in cartridges for more tropical, musky, or floral scents. The warmer is compatible with both horizontal and vertical outlets and can be placed upside down if necessary.

Product Specs

• Type: Heated oil
• Scent(s): Clean linen, lily, and pear
• Longevity: 50 days (per refill)

Get the Febreze plug-in air freshener at Target or Walmart.

Best Bang for the Buck

Air Wick Plug in Scented Oil Starter Kit

See It

What We Like

• Extra refills
• 5 settings
• Lasts for 360 days total on the lowest setting
• Dye- and phthalate-free
• Recyclable and eco-friendly

What We Don’t Like

• Some users report issues with the scent quality

Air Wick’s scented oil starter kit features two warmers and six refills at a budget-friendly price. Control the amount of fragrance emitted by choosing from five settings for tackling cooking, musty, and pet odors. This kit provides a lavender aroma for 360 days on the lowest setting, with each cartridge lasting for approximately 60 days.

The oil is free of dyes and phthalates and contains natural fragrances, which include notes of lavender essence as well as chamomile and woods. The packing materials and glass cartridges are recyclable to make the product eco-friendly. The refills are also compatible with all other Air Wick plug-in air fresheners.

Product Specs 

• Type: Heated oil
• Scent(s): Lavender and chamomile
• Longevity: 60 days (per refill)

Get the Air Wick Starter Kit at Amazon, The Home Depot, and Walmart.

Best Eco-Friendly

Air Wick Botanica Plug in Scented Oil Starter Kit

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What We Like

• Free of propellants, dyes, and phthalates
• Cruelty-free
• Responsibly-sourced oil
• 100 percent recyclable packaging

What We Don’t Like

• Some users report poor scent quality

Air Wick’s Botanica line is tough on unpleasant smells and gentle on the planet. The oil contains responsibly sourced ingredients and no chemical propellants, dyes, or phthalates, and it was not tested on animals. The scent features Caribbean sweetgrass and sandalwood, and the sweetgrass essential oil is responsibly sourced from Haiti. It comes in a 100 percent recyclable box and is made in a zero-waste plant.

The kit includes two warmers and six refills, each of which provides up to 60 days of pleasant, warm aromas on the lowest setting. Air Wick also makes a number of other eco-friendly Botanica fragrances, including French Lavender and Honey, Pineapple and Tunisian Rosemary, and Himalayan Magnolia and Vanilla.

Product Specs 

• Type: Heated oil
• Scent(s): Caribbean sweetgrass and sandalwood, French lavender and honey, pineapple and Tunisian rosemary, and Himalayan magnolia and vanilla
• Longevity: 60 days (per refill)

Get the Air Wick Scented Oil Starter Kit at Amazon.

Best Diffuser

Pure Daily Care Ultimate Aromatherapy Diffuser Set

See It

What We Like

• Suitable for aromatherapy
• 10 essential oils with amber jars for sun protection
• BPA-free plastic construction
• 400-millimeter capacity
• 7 ambient light modes

What We Don’t Like

• No longevity between reloads listed
• Pricey compared to similar options

Pure Daily Care makes an excellent starter kit for those interested in aromatherapy. This diffuser comes with 10 therapeutic-grade essential oils, including lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree, orange, peppermint, lemongrass, jasmine, nutmeg, clove, and spearmint. Each is packaged in a 10-milliliter amber jar that protects the oil from sun degradation.

The diffuser itself is made from BPA-free plastic with a wood grain design and has a 400-milliliter capacity. It features seven ambient light modes with two light intensity settings as well as a timer and an auto-shutoff feature that detects low water levels.

Product Specs 

• Type: Essential oil diffuser
• Scent(s): Lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree, orange, peppermint, lemongrass, jasmine, nutmeg, clove, and spearmint
• Longevity: Unlimited

Get the Pure Daily Care diffuser set at Amazon or Walmart.

Best Air Purifier

LEVOIT Smart WiFi Air Purifier for Home

See It

What We Like

• Connects to Wi-Fi networks; controllable through smartphones and tablets
• Removes 99.97 percent of airborne contaminants
• 3-step filtration system
• Circulates air multiple times per hour
• Night mode

What We Don’t Like

• Pricey
• No air quality sensor built-in

LEVOIT smart air purifier connects to a Wi-Fi network, allowing users to control it remotely from a smartphone or a tablet. Eliminate 99.97 percent of airborne contaminants that are 0.3 microns in size, including dust, pollen, mold, and pet dander, using the ultrafine nylon prefilter, activated carbon filter, and HEPA filter. In a 183-square-foot room, this air purifier circulates air five times per hour and twice per hour in a 376-square-foot room.

For uninterrupted sleep, users can turn off all display lights while the purifier is operating. Sleep mode also operates quietly at just 24 decibels, while “high-speed” mode produces 45 decibels of sound, which is comparable to the sound of a fridge running.

Product Specs 

• Type: Air purifier
• Scent(s): N/A
• Longevity: Unlimited

Get the LEVOIT Smart WiFi air purifier at Amazon or Target.

Best Mini Air Purifier

Germ Guardian Pluggable Air Purifier & Sanitizer

See It

What We Like

• Compatible with standard wall outlets
• UV-C light technology; removes VOCs, germs, and viruses
• Compact, lightweight design

What We Don’t Like

• Not suitable for large spaces
• Replacement bulbs sold separately

Many plug-in air purifiers sit on a tabletop, but mini models rest directly on a wall outlet, taking up minimal space. Despite its compact size, this Germ Guardian product is powerful enough to sanitize the air in small spaces. Rather than filters, it uses UV-C light to remove airborne germs and viruses and reduce volatile organic compounds (VOCs). The light actually alters the genetic structure of particles like influenza, killing them before they are breathed in. Each bulb lasts for between 4,000 and 5,000 hours.

Product Specs 

• Type: Air purifier
• Scent(s): N/A
• Longevity: 4,000 to 5,000 hours

Get the Germ Guardian mini air purifier at Amazon, The Home Depot, and Walmart.

Best for Bathroom

Mindful Design Frosted Pagoda Wax Warmer Plug-In

See It

What We Like

• Removable dish
• Toggle switch turn-on
• Produces aroma and light

What We Don’t Like

• Wax not included
• Should be used with soy-based waxes for best results

To bring a spa-style vibe to any bathroom, consider this Mindful Design product. As a wax warmer, it provides the peaceful ambiance of a scented candle without the stress of an open flame. The pagoda-shaped warmer has a wood frame and glass siding, and it uses a glowing filament bulb to create a gentle golden glow for a relaxing atmosphere.

The outlet cord features a toggle switch so users can easily turn the warmer off when leaving the room. The bowl is removable for easy cleanup once the wax has cooled. The wax is not included; purchase soy-based wax for the best results.

Product Specs 

• Type: Wax warmer
• Scent(s): Universal
• Longevity: 4 to 8 hours

Get the Mindful Design plug-in air freshener at Amazon.

How We Chose the Best Plug-In Air Fresheners

We researched the most sought-after plug-in air fresheners in their respective categories and discovered that the best options are determined by their type, size, fragrances offered, longevity, ease of setup and use, and other special features included by top brands.

To ensure our list included top picks that satisfied a range of preferences, we included heated oil models, essential oil diffusers, air purifiers, and wax melts that are compact enough to fit standard wall outlets as well as tabletops and vehicles. While many options come with various fragrances, some options remove unpleasant odors with air purification and elimination without the use of natural or artificial fragrances.

Though some options on our list provide unlimited usage, all of the other products listed above offer odor control for 4 hours to as long as 360 days at a time in small to large rooms. Each option is also easy to set up and use by simply plugging in or refilling a reservoir with water and compatible essential oils. Plus, these air fresheners are suitable for use in living room, kitchen, automotive, and bathroom spaces and their odors.

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Plug-in Air Freshener 

A number of factors and product features may affect a plug-in air freshener’s scent, settings, aesthetic, convenience, and overall quality. Keep reading to learn important considerations when shopping for the best plug-in air freshener for unpleasant home smells.

Types of Plug-in Air Fresheners

There are four basic types of plug-in air fresheners for unpleasant odors: heated oils and sprays, wax warmers, essential oil diffusers, and air purifiers. Each provides varying benefits and offers differing levels of convenience, longevity, and additional features.

Heated Oil and Spray

These standard plug-in air fresheners are energy efficient, emitting a fairly strong fragrance while using a minimal amount of electricity. They feature cartridges filled with a wide variety of scented oils, which are then aerosolized and sprayed into the room. Most models are compatible with any refill cartridge from the same brand. Each cartridge lasts between 30 and 60 days, though longevity varies from brand to brand.

Some folks find the fragrance from this type of air freshener to be overpowering, but there are products that let you control the level of scent emitted, adjusting it to room size or user preference. Be mindful of standard plug-in air fresheners when it comes to children and pets, because heated oils and sprays are dangerous if ingested.

Wax Warmers

Wax warmers act as a safer alternative to burning candles, relying on either a light bulb or a warming plate as a heat source instead of an open flame. Bulbs for plug-in wax warmers range from 25 to 40 watts, and various models may emit soft, ambient light to mimic a candle. While some models may come with wax, it can also be purchased separately.

These products feature a heat-resistant bowl where users place wax melts or pucks that come in various natural and synthetic fragrances. The wax takes several hours to cool completely and should not be accessible to children or pets. Each wax melt lasts for up to 10 hours.

Essential Oil Diffusers

Essential oils are natural, plant-derived substances said to have a number of aromatherapeutic benefits. Essential oil diffusers heat essential oils to break them down and dispense the smaller particles into the air. Most models also use water to provide both a humidifying and air- freshening effect.

While the water reservoir must be refilled daily, only a few drops of essential oil are required. Some oil diffusers are sold with essential oils while others require that you purchase them separately. Essential oil diffusers should only be used for half an hour at a time because prolonged exposure to essential oils may have negative health effects.

Air Purifiers

Air purifiers actually eliminate unpleasant odors rather than simply covering them up. Not only that, but they also improve air quality by removing dust, pollen, mold, and pet dander. They are the ideal choice for reducing airborne contaminants that aggravate allergy symptoms and cause respiratory issues. They draw in odors and particles from the air, then use filters to purify the air before recirculating it into the room.

The highest-quality filters are known as HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) filters. They have been certified to trap 99.97 percent of all particles that are 0.3 microns or larger in size. HEPA filters must be changed every 3 to 6 months.

When choosing an air purifier, consider the size of your space. Most manufacturers will stipulate the ideal room size for their product and provide an air change per hour (ACH) rate, which lets users know how many times per hour it will filter all of the air in the room.

Location

When choosing an air freshener, first consider where it will be placed. While a stronger fragrance may be a great choice for a large open space, it may be overpowering in a small bathroom. Also, consider any pets or young children in the household, and be sure to place the plug-in air freshener out of their reach.

Note that your vehicle may also benefit from a plug-in product. Some are designed to be plugged into a car’s 2-volt outlet, while others use a USB cable. They’re convenient for covering up the smell of fast food or stinky sports equipment. They typically power on when the engine is running to avoid wasting the car’s battery.

Scent

One of the primary considerations when choosing an air freshener is whether to go with a scented or unscented version. Standard air fresheners, as well as essential oil diffusers and wax warmers, feature a wide variety of fresh scents that can be swapped out seasonally or depending on your preference.

Decide whether natural aromas from essential oils or synthetic scents are the better choice for your household, keeping in mind that some artificial smells may act as irritants to allergy sufferers. Also remember that air purifiers eliminate odors without emitting any additional scent.

Settings

Each type of plug-in air freshener can feature a range of settings.

• Some standard air fresheners allow users to control the level of fragrance emitted based on how strong they want the smell to be. Others feature night-lights that are convenient for late-night bathroom trips.
• Essential oil diffusers may include timers, ambient light settings, and auto-shutoff features that detect low water levels.
• Air purifiers often feature different fan settings, timers, and filter change indicators. They may also include smart technology, allowing users to control them remotely via a smartphone or a tablet.

Aesthetic

When choosing an air freshener that will be placed in a visible location, the product’s appearance is a key consideration.

• Heated oil and spray air fresheners typically have a simple plastic design and display the color of the oil or liquid.
• Wax warmers vary widely in appearance, with options to suit a number of different decor styles. They may have either a natural, a contemporary, or a bohemian aesthetic.
• Essential oil diffusers come in a variety of shapes and sizes and feature casings made from plastic, wood, glass, and terra cotta.
• Air purifiers often feature streamlined modern designs that help them blend in with existing decor items.

Convenience

Some shoppers may prioritize convenience when choosing a plug-in air freshener. Air purifiers offer optimal convenience since their filters only need to be changed a few times per year. Essential oil diffusers, on the other hand, need their water reservoirs filled daily.

When shopping for a standard plug-in air freshener, look for a model that is compatible with both vertical and horizontal outlets that can be plugged in upside down if necessary.

FAQs 

Here are answers to some of the most frequently asked questions about plug-in air fresheners for bad home smells.

Q: Do plug-in air fresheners use a lot of electricity? 

Plug-in air fresheners are very energy efficient, using an average of 4 watts of power.

Q: Are plug-in air fresheners a fire hazard? 

While some plug-in air fresheners have been blamed for causing fires, this is extremely rare. These incidents are typically caused by faulty wiring.

Q: What is the most effective air freshener? 

Air purifiers are more powerful than traditional air fresheners because they actually filter and eliminate dust and mold particles to clean the air in your home. The LEVOIT Smart WiFi Air Purifier for Home is one of the best air purifier options available.

Q: What is the longest-lasting plug-in air freshener? 

The Air Wick Plug in Scented Oil Starter Kit is one of the most long-lasting plug-in air fresheners on the market, with the included cartridges lasting for a total of 360 days.

Q: How often do plug-in air fresheners need to be replaced? 

The cartridges on standard plug-in air fresheners typically need to be replaced every 30 to 60 days, depending on the brand.

The post The Best Plug-In Air Fresheners appeared first on Bob Vila.

A slippery coating of ice can bring your life to a grinding halt if you don’t have the means to get rid of it. While ice melt gets the job done, what if a surprise storm strikes after you’ve used up the last of your supply? Or maybe you’re trying to cut down on commercial ice melt out of concern for plants, pets, and the environment. In either scenario, DIY alternatives can help you clear ice off your car, sidewalks, driveway, and other surfaces. So, the next time you find yourself iced in, try one of these three homemade ice-melting solutions that use ingredients you probably have on hand.

1. For front steps, car windshields and doors, and other small areas, try rubbing alcohol.

Alcohol has a much lower freezing point than water. This homemade de-icer recipe harnesses its ice-melting potential: Combine 4 gallons of hot water, 16 ounces of rubbing alcohol, and 1 teaspoon of dish soap. (The dish soap reduces the surface tension of the water, helping the solution spread more evenly.) Pour the solution over icy areas, and then use a shovel to clear off loose ice and water.

For icy car doors or windshields, pour some of the cooled solution into a spray bottle and spritz the frozen areas. Keep a bottle of this solution in the car so you’re ready if the windshield gets frosted over when you’re far from home.

2. For walkways and driveways, try salt.

Rock salt, or sodium chloride, is the most common (and cheapest) ice melt around. It works by lowering the freezing point of water, eventually breaking down the ice. If you don’t have any rock salt handy for de-icing, table salt can do in a pinch. For best results, remove as much snow as possible from the surface before applying the salt. Because of its small granule size, table salt will start working faster than rock salt, but it won’t provide the same traction. As well, table salt tends to turn ice into tough-to-move slush, while rock salt is more likely to break it down into manageable chunks. For small areas, such as the front steps, try mixing warm water with table salt and applying this solution; this method also works for unsticking car tires. Though cheap and usually plentiful, salt has a few drawbacks: It is not effective at the low temperatures that some of the best commercial ice melts can handle. As well, it can harm plants, corrode metal and concrete, and impact fish and wildlife if it gets into waterways, so avoid regular use.

3. If you have nothing else available, try fertilizer.

Ammonium sulfate, a common ingredient in commercial fertilizers, works by lowering the temperature at which ice melts. While it doesn’t melt ice immediately, it speeds the process along. If you have no other potential ice melt around, check your leftover fertilizer to see if ammonium sulfate is listed as a component. To use, scatter it over the ice. Although fertilizer can help melt ice, it’s not recommended. Overuse can harm plants, fertilizer chemicals can damage concrete surfaces, and fertilizer runoff from melting ice is an environmental concern.

The post Homemade Ice Melt Recipes: 3 Solutions for When You’re Iced In appeared first on Bob Vila.

People spend about 90 percent of their time indoors, so keeping indoor air healthy is a must. 

Mold is a fungus that’s plentiful in the natural environment and, when conditions are right, indoors as well. The bathroom is damp, and often warm, so it can be a favorite spot for black mold to grow. 

According to Donald Weekes, a certified industrial hygienist in Ontario, Canada, and a member of the American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA) Indoor Environmental Quality Committee, “there is something in the neighborhood of 200,000 different types of mold.” Since it’s natural, alive, and goes airborne, mold can happen just about anywhere, Weekes says. Read ahead to learn what conditions support mold growth in your home, how black mold can make you sick, and what to do about black mold in a bathroom.

What is black mold?

The black mold species Stachybotrys chartarum is an aggressive and highly toxic mold variety that might be best removed by a professional. It’s among the world’s 10 most hazardous fungi. “Black mold, in particular, produces mycotoxins,” says Kenny Key, CEO and founder of Lead and Mold Detectives in New York. Those can lead to health problems, especially in the respiratory system.

It can be difficult to tell whether a fungus in your bathroom is black mold vs. mildew or another mold variety. But even as you consider the health effects and identification markers of black mold below, note that the experts we consulted agree that you should address any signs of mold, regardless of type. ”If you spot any mold in your bathroom—whether black or not—it’s important to take action immediately,” says Laura Linn Knight, author of The Toxic Mold Solution: A Comprehensive Guide to Healing Your Home and Body from Mold. Leaving any mold in place too long, especially without addressing moisture, can increase the chance the problem will progress to black mold.

Black Mold’s Impact on Health

Exposure to any mold over time can lead to health effects. The type and range depend on “the type of mold, the level of exposure, and the individual’s sensitivity,” says Knight. Potential health effects of mold exposure and black mold symptoms include:

• Respiratory issues—black mold exposure can cause or worsen asthma. Other signs are wheezing, coughing, sneezing, shortness of breath, and sinus infections.
• Allergic reactions, such as skin rashes, watery eyes, and even swollen eyes.
• Headaches, such as migraines
• Fatigue, dizziness, or vertigo
• Brain fog and difficulty concentrating
• Abdominal pain, nausea, bloating
• Mental health effects such as anxiety or depression.

The mycotoxins in black mold “can cause chronic fatigue, nausea, vomiting, and neurological symptoms like dizziness, confusion, and sometimes memory loss,” says Key. Knight says that mycotoxins can interfere with brain function, “contributing to mood swings, memory problems, and increased stress levels.” If you don’t address mold exposure like black mold in the shower, you can have “chronic, long-term health issues, including chronic respiratory problems and neurological effects,” says Knight.

How to Identify Black Mold in the Bathroom

Before knowing how to get rid of black mold in the bathroom, learn what conditions support mold growth. First, Weekes says to look for the three things mold needs to thrive: mold spores, a porous surface they can latch onto, and high humidity/moisture. Drifting through the air, mold spores eventually land on a moist surface amenable to mold, like cellulose, and “they’ll most likely land on that surface and grow,” says Weekes. 

To tell the appearance of black mold from other molds, look for a dark patch that forms in a circular pattern. “Black mold typically is darker in color, a black or greenish-black, and usually looks wet,” says Key. “Black mold also has a very distinct musty smell that can help in identification,” he says.

Still, black mold could lurk under bathroom floors or inside walls. The only sure way to identify black mold is to take a sample and test it—either by asking professionals to come in or by using a black mold test kit. Once you confirm the bathroom mold type and extent of the problem, you can learn how to remove black mold safely or seek professional help.

Before You Begin

Cleaning mold requires that you be near the spores. If you attempt to remove black mold, “you need to wear protective gear,” says Key. This includes gloves, goggles, an N95 respirator mask, and long sleeves. “Make sure you have proper ventilation in the area in which you’re working,” Key advises. Further, use similar caution when turning to various cleaning products; follow all instructions on the container and never mix chemicals, especially ammonia and bleach. 

Follow these protective measures to minimize exposure. If you notice any health effects from being near the black mold, it’s best to stop working and have a professional take over. Likewise, if you are uncertain about the type of mold or extent of the problem, notice significant water damage, or see that black mold covers more than 10 square feet of surface area, turn to a professional remediator instead.

How to Clean Black Mold From Bathroom Surfaces

SUPPLIES

N95 respirator mask
Rubber gloves or chemical-resistant gloves
Eye goggles
Distilled white vinegar
Detergent or antifungal cleaner
Hydrogen peroxide
Rags, sponges, or a scrub brush
BleachAmmonia

Without testing the mold, it can be difficult to know in advance what works best to kill black mold or another type. If uncertain and facing a small amount of stain, start with milder household products and move on to harsher ammonia if necessary. “Generally speaking, it’s the simplest product that works best,” says Weekes. When deciding how to eliminate mold in bathroom fixtures or walls, always consider the surface type, partly to avoid abrasive tools that might scratch the surface. In addition, porous surfaces can absorb all liquids, as well as the mold spores you can see.

How to clean hard surfaces, like ceramic tiles and bathroom countertops

Follow these directions for nonporous surfaces and fixtures include toilets, porcelain sinks, some shower or floor tiles, mirrors, and vinyl shower curtains. Unless they are sealed well, grouts and many types of caulk are porous. 

1. Spray the area with your preferred safe cleaner, such as distilled white vinegar or a mixture of vinegar and household detergent. You could also use undiluted 3% hydrogen peroxide or a commercial antifungal cleaner (follow manufacturer’s directions.)
2. Let the cleaner sit for several minutes, then spray again just before wiping.
3. After wiping the cleaner on the surface, check your results.
4. If mold remains, spray again and scrub with a brush or abrasive scrubber. Dry the area thoroughly and assess whether the cleanup was effective.
5. If mold remains after cleaning, clean the area again with ammonia and water (10 percent ammonia to 90 percent water).
6. If the problem persist, you may need to call in the experts.

The easiest way to clean a vinyl shower curtain is to remove it and soak it in a large tub or container filled with water and about a cup of white vinegar (or bleach if the curtain is colorfast) for about an hour. 

Only turn to bleach if necessary when cleaning black mold in bathrooms. Biocides like chlorine bleach kill living organisms such as mold, but the EPA does not recommend them for routine mold cleanup, even on nonporous surfaces. Weekes says the suggestion for years has been to use “water and about a 10 percent solution of ammonia.” You also can opt for a commercial product designed to kill mold, but check it carefully for safety precautions for surfaces and ventilation.

How to clean porous surfaces such as grout, ceiling tiles, and walls

Porous materials allow moisture—and mold—to penetrate their surfaces. In a bathroom, this might include wood, walls, wallpaper, carpet, unsealed grouts, caulk, and ceiling tiles. According to Weekes, mold will latch onto surfaces “made up of cellulose, like paper and wallboard.” He says the porous materials are “soft and chewy, which is why most problems are in walls and ceilings.” Even moisture-resistant wall materials like greenboard can take in mold if a shower surround or wall was not designed or installed properly or if excess moisture and mold have been allowed to sit on the walls.

Again, although you might see advice about using bleach to kill mold, apply that only to nonporous surfaces. “You don’t want to use bleach on a porous surface,” says Key. It could make the problem worse, since water in the bleach will penetrate the porous surface and add to moisture. Plus, Key says “black mold has a protective outer layer that bleach doesn’t penetrate effectively.” 

1. Select your treatment option. As with hard surfaces, start with the simplest or mildest option. White vinegar can help kill mold since it penetrates porous surfaces, and its acid could help rid crevices of mold.You also can use a commercial mold cleaner designed for multiple surfaces—follow package directions. If you have a small patch of black mold, skip right to the 10 percent ammonia and water solution.
2. Spray the product on the affected area and let it sit for a few minutes.
3. To avoid soaking the porous surface, wipe the area with a cloth or sponge, since a brush could harm porous surfaces.
4. To avoid soaking the porous surface, Wring out the cloth or sponge if you dip it in a solution or as it becomes damp from wiping. 
5. Gently wipe the wall again with a wrung-out sponge or cloth dipped in clean water.
6. To clean grout, dip a toothbrush in the cleaning solution and scrub the grout lightly before wiping with a cloth or sponge dipped in clean water and wrung out.
7. Help the porous surface dry quickly by opening windows or directing fans toward the cleaned area.
8. Let the wall dry for 24 hours if possible before checking results. 
9. If mold persists, repeat steps above or call in a pro.

According to the EPA, mold in ceilings and carpet can be difficult to impossible to remove since it fills the empty spaces and crevices of the porous materials. It is generally better to replace moldy ceiling tiles, carpet, or any large section of wall affected by mold.

When to Hire a Professional for Bathroom Mold Remediation

Tackling small spots of mold and mildew are easy DIY tasks and important bathroom maintenance to prevent black mold. But it’s important to know when you should call in a mold remediation professional instead. Professionals have the equipment and expertise to return your home to a safe state. They also can make recommendations on how to prevent mold from coming back in the future. 

“Times to call in a pro are when it’s more than 10 square feet of mold, or if there is structural damage like mold growing on the walls, ceilings, or floors,” says Key. If mold is hidden behind walls, under carpet, or in your HVAC system, he explains, you need a professional remediation. 

Your health and sensitivity also are factors, say Key and Knight. For example, those with asthma or allergies shouldn’t tackle black mold removal. “If you are sensitive to mold, I suggest hiring a professional to remove even a small amount of mold,” says Knight. Key adds: “If there is extensive water damage from flooding or minor damage in the bathroom from a leak,” you need a pro to treat that as well.

Key says to look for a licensed company in your state. All states have some type of certification for professional mold remediators. The AIHA maintains a list of industrial hygiene and environmental health and safety consultants. Mold inspection costs typically average around $656, but some companies will waive this fee if the customer hires them for remediation services. 

Black mold removal costs start at about $1,223 and average about $2,300. Homeowners insurance may cover mold remediation, depending on the circumstances.

How to Prevent Mold in Your Bathroom

The best way to address black mold in your bathroom is to prevent mold from growing and to address any mold or signs of moisture damage immediately. “Prevention is a matter of maintenance more than anything else,” says Weekes. This includes making sure your home is sealed from outside moisture, that you’re not seeing condensation on windows, mold on windowsills, or water activity on surfaces, and that your home has adequate ventilation.

Clean your bathroom regularly.

Thoroughly clean the bathroom weekly; this consistent regimen should keep mold spores from taking hold and running amok. If you see signs of bathtub mold or other mold or mildew, rotate an antifungal cleaner into the routine at least once a month. Store a spray bottle of vinegar in the bathroom, then apply it and let it air-dry after every shower or bath. And don’t simply paint over mold on walls; take steps to clean the spores first.

Keep bathroom surfaces dry between uses.

To prevent black mold in the shower, use a squeegee to remove water droplets from the shower walls, then towel down glass doors and tile to remove the remaining moisture from those surfaces. It’s even helpful to dry the floor, dry off shampoo bottles, and hang damp towels elsewhere. Prevent black mold in a bathroom sink by wiping the basin out after each use. If you see signs of black mold in a bathtub or around it, be sure to drain it completely, wipe down wet edges if necessary, and check for signs of cracks in or black mold in bathroom caulk around the tub, shower, windows, or sink.

Take steps to eliminate moisture from leaks or a poorly sealed home.

“One of the main contributors to mold growth is excess moisture,” says Knight. “Fix any leaks in your bathroom plumbing or shower as soon as possible to prevent water from pooling or seeping into the walls,” she says. When the weather allows, open your bathroom window after a shower. Add moisture-loving plants like orchids or peace lilies to soak up some of the moisture and green up the space.

Running an exhaust fan for at least 30 minutes after fogging up the bathroom with showers or laundry if located there can help, but if you already have mold spores, use caution. “Most bathroom vents go directly up into the attic,” says Weekes. The attic probably has plenty of porous and cellulose surfaces for those spores to grow. If your exhaust fan vents to the outside, it can help. However, Weekes says, the best ventilation comes from your air conditioning system. 

Use mold- or moisture-resistant construction.

“When renovating or maintaining your bathroom, consider using mold-resistant products,” says Knight, who says that new products like mold-resistant paperless drywall, vapor barriers or retarders, are always coming on the market. Opt for nonporous surfaces when possible, and ensure that all caulks, grouts, and joints are properly sealed to prevent water from seeping through cracks. 

Final Thoughts

According to Weekes, cleaners and other efforts help control mold, but you can’t be completely free of this living organism. “Mold has survived for hundreds of thousands of years. Anything that you can throw at it will not be completely effective,” he says. Still, managing moisture, regularly cleaning spores from surfaces, and getting rid of any black mold with these steps or through professional remediation can help. If black mold returns or spreads after you try to kill it, turn to a licensed mold removal company to help eliminate existing mold damage and correct issues like moisture or poorly constructed shower walls that support its growth.

The post Cleaning and Preventing Black Mold in the Bathroom appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you’ve ever tried to remove paint from brick, you know that it can be a painstaking process. Depending on the scope of the job, it might take you several hours or several days to complete the work. Because of the time and effort involved, many homeowners are unable or unwilling to commit their schedules to the project and choose instead to hire professionals, or not to undertake the project at all.

If you’re dealing with only a modest expanse of brick, or if you relish a challenge, there’s good news: Paint-stripping products have improved over the years, making the work friendlier to your health and to the brick itself. These new, safer formulations are the way to go. Many pros and DIYers recommend Citri-Strip. SmartStrip has its devotees, too. None are cheap, but all are comparably effective.

You may be tempted to try a short cut, possibly sandblasting or powerwashing the paint. This may do more harm than good, and leave the building material in a vulnerable condition. Many caustic, chemical-based paint-removal solutions compromise brick in a similar way. If you remove paint from brick using any of these potentially damaging methods, you may end up with a problem that’s much more serious than paint.

Tried-and-True Advice

“Before you start, I’d give serious thought to answering, ‘Just because I can do this project, should I do this project?’ The likelihood you can get all the paint off is near zero. The approaches to stripping paint from brick, heat or chemicals, re-liquefy the paint, turning it into a sloppy slurry that is hard to manage.

First, you could try a heat gun brick-by-brick. Start on low and heat up the paint. It’ll bubble on the surface of the brick like cheese melting, and that’s your signal to scrape the paint from the brick. I’d use a 1-inch Hyde putty knife for this. As you go, adjust the heat gun to match your site conditions. For example, there may be multiple coats of paint that require more heat. That said, if there is lead paint, heat is a no-go because re-liquefying that paint can cause noxious fumes. Also, brick can fracture if it gets too hot.

Second, you can try chemicals. The chemicals also heat up the paint and render it a slop. Plus there is the additional gel of the actual chemical to deal with. It’s literally a hot mess.”

—Mark Clement, Contributing Writer

If you’re dealing with old brick, it’s critical to not to clean the brick in a way that does lasting harm. Today, the best solutions are gel or paste compounds, followed by fabric-based peeling strips. The paint stripper triggers a chemical reaction that causes the paint to soften and adhere to the fabric. In the final step, the fabric strips are peeled away, taking the paint with them in the process and exposing the natural brick. Know what you’re getting into, though. The right paint stripper can do much of the work for you, but most situations call for a great deal of further scrubbing and/or scraping by hand.

How to Remove Paint From Brick

Step 1: Test the paint stripper.

Before applying a stripping agent to painted brick, test the stripper on an inconspicuous part of the installation. You may find that the stripper you’ve chosen does not work as well as expected, or you may discover the brick was painted to conceal its poor condition. Another good reason to start with a test: Doing so gives you a sense of how much effort the job is going to take. You may still opt to hire a pro, or you may decide you can put up with the paint.

Step 2: Protect yourself and your work area.

Stripping paint from brick is a messy job. Minimize cleanup by setting up your work area in a thoughtful way. First, lay down a series of drop cloths or some thick plastic sheeting to catch the peeling and flaking paint that will fall away from the brick. Don’t forget to tape the drop cloth or plastic to the bottom edge of the brick. If you don’t want to disturb the finish of nearby painted areas—the adjacent wood trim, perhaps—take the time to cover it up completely with painter’s tape.

Don the protective gear recommended by the manufacturer of the paint stripper you’ve chosen.

Step 3: Apply the paint stripper.

Before applying the gel or paste, start out by scraping away any paint that’s already loose. Next, using a trowel or a specialized tool provided by the paint stripper manufacturer, apply the compound to the brick. Be thorough, making sure to push the gel or paste into all the little crevices in the brick and mortar. Layer by layer, build the stripper up to the thickness recommended by the manufacturer.

Step 4: Position the peeling strips.

With the compound in place, start positioning the peeling strips. Typically made of fabric, these strips should be pressed and held against the stripper until firmly attached. Overlap the strips so that no brick remains visible. Once the strips have been applied, let them set for the period of time stipulated by the manufacturer. In many cases, particularly when multiple paint layers are involved, it takes a full 24 hours for the compound to cure and really work its magic.

Step 5: Remove the strips.

Once sufficient time has passed, return to the work area and begin lifting off the strips. If necessary, use the trowel to gain purchase behind any sluggish strips. Peel the strips in a slow and deliberate fashion; don’t rip them. As you peel, the paint beneath should come off too. Wherever the strips leave behind either compound or paint, use the trowel to flake off as much residue as possible. If the trowel doesn’t cut it, scrub with a stiff-bristled brush and rinse with water. If it wasn’t already clear, now it is: Removing paint from brick is a labor-intensive, if not grueling, project.

Dispose of the used strips according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For some products, the chemical reaction stops on its own, while for others it stops only after the addition of a neutralizing chemical. Also important: Do not attempt to remove paint from brick if, within a month or so, there’s any chance that the temperature is going to fall below freezing. If the brick doesn’t dry completely before the frost, it will be especially likely to succumb to damage.

The post How to Remove Paint From Brick appeared first on Bob Vila.

Looking out into your picturesque backyard is something to be grateful for, but dirty and smudged windows can taint your view. For decades, people cleaned their windows with newspaper and vinegar since it was an easy and inexpensive option that didn’t leave behind residue or streaks and helped reuse old papers.   

However, newspaper for windows is a cleaning hack that does not work anymore for several reasons. Fortunately, there are much better methods to clean windows, mirrors, and other glass surfaces. Here are the reasons why newspapers are no longer a good choice and some better tools for cleaning windows. 

Newspaper isn’t as strong as it used to be.

In the past, newspapers were made with much thicker paper. The cheaper paper today doesn’t hold up as well as it used to, making the material less suitable for cleaning glass. “Today’s newspapers are thinner and less absorbent, meaning they can fall apart easily, leaving behind fibers and a mess,” says Leon Hansraj, CEO and founder of Gridlock Services, a commercial cleaning company based in Orlando, Florida.

Muffetta Krueger, cleaning expert and founder of Muffetta’s Housekeeping in Westchester County, New York, agrees. “Today’s newspapers are much thinner and more fragile, making them prone to tearing and leaving behind lint and residue.”

The ink used today makes it more difficult to clean glass.

The ink used to print newspaper content is also different from past ink types, and ink smudging is now a problem. “Unlike older newspapers with oil-based ink, modern newspapers use soy-based ink, which can smudge and leave streaks on glass,” says Krueger. Another issue is ink transfer. “The ink can transfer onto your hands and window frames, creating extra mess rather than a spotless finish,” she adds. 

Most households don’t receive printed newspapers anymore.

The days of paperboys and papergirls are long gone. It’s now rare for households to get print newspapers delivered. In fact, it’s hard to find a printed newspaper even in supermarkets anymore. Instead, people receive their news online. Therefore, this material is no longer on hand to use for tasks like cleaning windows and mirrors. “With fewer people receiving physical newspapers, it’s a less practical choice,” says Hansraj.

Windows can get scratched.

As both the materials involved in producing newspapers and glass have changed over the years, the potential for scratching has increased. “Windows manufactured in the last approximately 7 years have a protective coating and/or tints that can be damaged by the abrasive texture of newspaper, essentially rubbing off the layer of coating,” says Aaron Reed, butler and estate manager at The Butler’s Choice in Portland, Oregon. “There’s also a risk of micro-scratches since some newspapers contain synthetic materials,” adds Hansraj.

Try these better window-cleaning alternatives instead:

Forget the newspaper hack. There are more effective ways to achieve a streak-free shine on windows, mirrors, and other glass surfaces. 

Microfiber Cloths

Experts agree that soft microfiber cloths are an excellent option for removing dust and debris from glass surfaces. “They are highly effective at trapping dust and moisture, leaving glass spotless without streaks or lint. Plus, they’re reusable and eco-friendly” says Krueger. Look for well-made microfiber cloths that are tightly woven together. If you hold one up to the light and see no light poking through, then you know you have a high-quality product. 

Squeegees

Another favorite tool, according to experts, is a squeegee, which has a thin piece of rubber, like a blade, on the end that is perfect for washing windows. It is abrasive enough to loosen dirt but will not damage the glass. With squeegees, you also can cover a larger area than with a balled-up newspaper or cloth, so you save some time. The handle on most squeegees helps you more easily clean hard-to-reach windows without standing on a ladder. Finally, squeegees are reusable, so you won’t need a new one every time you want to clean a glass surface in your home.

“We use professional-grade squeegees with gentle but effective cleaning solutions to remove grime without damaging the glass,” says Hansraj. They are effective because they ensure that you remove all the soap and water from the window, producing a streak-free shine. Krueger adds: “A high-quality squeegee with a bit of dish soap in warm water ensures a professional-grade clean without leaving streaks.”

Other Types of Cleaning Cloths

Krueger also recommends some other types of cleaning cloths. Look for glass-specific cleaning cloths that are specially designed to be lint-free, she says. “Also, reusable cleaning pads are another great eco-friendly choice, offering excellent cleaning power without waste,” says Krueger.

Coffee Filters

Another interesting option is to try wiping with a coffee filter. This inexpensive household staple is lint-free and won’t leave behind any residue. Just spray some cleaner and wipe with a coffee filter. Depending on how absorbent the filters are, you may need to use more than one at a time.

DIY Cleaners 

You can make your own homemade glass cleaner to apply with one of these newspaper alternatives. Experts agree that the most effective and natural cleaning solution for your home is a mixture of water and vinegar. “For eco-conscious cleaning, a simple vinegar and water solution works wonders, breaking down dirt and leaving windows sparkling,” says Hansraj. Just mix equal parts white vinegar and water, spray it on the glass, and wipe with a microfiber cloth, says Krueger. Just keep in mind that a DIY cleaner is great for indoor windows, but might not be as effective on outdoor windows, which could require a professional strength cleaner to tackle the dirt, debris, and pollen that builds up outdoors from weather, air pollution, and other factors. 

The post This Old School Cleaning Hack Simply Doesn’t Work Anymore appeared first on Bob Vila.

From sinks and appliances to counters and cabinet hardware, stainless steel remains popular in home kitchens, favored for its sleek look and durability. Sturdy though it may be, stainless steel appliances can unfortunately acquire unsightly scratches from everyday household use. Armed with the knowledge of how to remove scratches from stainless steel, however, it’s totally possible to minimize and even successfully remove these scratches altogether.

Follow the two sets of steps below on how to remove fine or deep scratches in stainless steel to improve the appearance of your kitchen, and refer to some helpful scratch prevention tips to keep your stainless steel clean and in peak condition for years to come.

How to Remove Fine Scratches From Stainless Steel

Look closely and you’ll see that stainless steel has brush marks on its surface. This is called the grain, a result of the stainless steel manufacturing process. Whichever scratch removal method or product you use, it’s essential to rub only in the direction of this grain. A common stainless steel maintenance mistake is going against the grain, which may create new scratches and potentially worsen existing ones.

Note: Do not use this scratch removal method on stainless steel that has a protective clear coat or synthetic surface applied, or else you may do more damage than you fix.

SUPPLIES

Stainless steel buffing compound
Microfiber cloths

Step 1: Prepare the stainless steel buffing compound.

Start with a liquid or powdered non-abrasive buffing compound you would normally use to clean stainless steel, like Bar Keeper’s Friend (in a pinch, you can even use whitening toothpaste). If your stainless steel cleaner of choice is cream-based, proceed to the next step. If you’re using a powdered stainless steel scratch remover, follow the label instructions for mixing until you have a paste roughly the consistency of toothpaste. When mixing in water, it helps to add it a few drops at a time in order to achieve the right thickness.

Step 2: Identify and buff out the fine scratch.

If possible, start by finding a smaller scratch in an inconspicuous spot on the clean and dry stainless steel surface. Apply a small amount of the cream or paste to a microfiber cloth and very gently rub it back and forth over the scratch, working in the direction of the metal’s grain. Continue until the scratch buffs out or diminishes in appearance.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When buffing out scratches, be sure to move in the direction of the stainless steel grain and don’t rub your buffing cloth in circles. I’ve used baking soda mixed with water to work out scratches, but it’s important to test whatever buffing agent you decide to use in an inconspicuous spot before buffing to ensure you don’t make scratches worse.

After buffing out scratches, I like to spray the stainless steel surface with distilled white vinegar and then wipe it with a clean cloth. I finish up by polishing the stainless steel with oil. I’ve used olive oil in the past, but you can also use stainless steel polish. To avoid scratches altogether, make a habit of gently cleaning your stainless steel to keep grime from building up and eliminate the need for heavy-duty cleaning.”

—Lauren Landers, Contributing Writer

Step 3: Wipe the metal surface clean.

Dampen a fresh microfiber cloth and use it to remove any remaining metal scratch remover residue in the spot where the scratch was, wiping in the direction of the grain. Fully dry the area with a clean, dry microfiber cloth.

Step 4: Repeat with all visible fine scratches on the surface.

If the above process for how to get scratches out of stainless steel produces satisfactory results, repeat Steps 2 and 3 on any other visible scratches in the metal. Continue to go with the stainless steel grain while buffing, and be sure to swap in new microfiber cloths as needed to avoid leaving excess buffing compound residue on the surface.

How to Remove Deep Scratches From Stainless Steel

For larger or deeper scratches on stainless steel that aren’t obviously affected by the above method, there’s still hope for a scratch-free surface. Stainless steel scratch removal kits are made for this exact type of job, generally containing a set of abrasive pads, a buffing compound, and blending agent. Unlike the process for removing fine scratches, scratch removal kits fix stainless steel scratches by working up from a coarser grit to a finer one to remove imperfections and restore the surface. Carefully follow the manufacturer’s directions included in your kit.

Note: Unless otherwise specified on the product label or appliance user manual, do not use any scratch removal kit on stainless steel with a fingerprint-resistant clear coat or other synthetic surface. Using the included abrasive pads directly on anything but stainless steel can cause further damage.

SUPPLIES

Microfiber cloths
Stainless steel scratch removal kit
Barry’s Ultra Shine

Step 1: Identify the deep scratch and make a first pass.

Open the stainless steel scratch remover kit and read the full instructions on how to buff out scratches, including any preparation steps and safety warnings. Find the coarsest abrasive pad in the kit and apply the included buffing compound as directed to clean, dry stainless steel. Using the prescribed number of strokes, rub the compound into the scratch along the grain.

Step 2: Wipe the work surface clean.

Rubbing in the direction of the grain, use a microfiber cloth to wipe off the compound as directed and take a better look at the scratch. If the scratch is no longer visible, skip to Step 4. If the scratch is still visible, proceed to Step 3.

Step 3: Continue to buff the scratch with increasingly fine pads (optional).

Switch to the next finest abrasive pad as indicated by the kit instructions, and apply more buffing compound if directed. Repeat the process of scrubbing, wiping, and evaluating the scratch, switching to finer pads as necessary and going with the grain throughout. Even if the scratch remains after using all of the kit’s included abrasive pads, don’t worry: The final touchup pass might still produce a noticeable improvement.

Step 4: Blend the scratch into the surrounding area.

Depending on your chosen scratch removal kit, it may include an extra chemical and soft pad in addition to the buffing compound and abrasive pads. If your kit doesn’t include this, however, you can purchase Barry’s Ultra Shine or a similar product separately and apply it with a clean, dry microfiber cloth.

Apply the finishing agent to the provided pad or cloth and rub it onto and around the scratch as directed, polishing with the grain of the metal. Stop and check the progress of the blending frequently. Decrease the amount of applied pressure gradually you go until the work area is sufficiently blended with the rest of the stainless steel surface.

How to Prevent Scratches in Stainless Steel

With that scratch on your stainless steel fridge or other kitchen surface removed, now is a good time to brush up on how to keep your metal surfaces looking pristine. Follow these tips to prevent scratches on your stainless steel from accumulating in the first place:

• Do not use abrasive cleaners, steel wool, or other rough materials when cleaning and polishing stainless steel. (For cleaners we recommend, read about our tests of the best stainless steel cleaners, or make your own homemade stainless steel cleaner.)
• Avoid stainless steel sink scratches by laying down a rubber dish mat at the bottom of the basin when washing metal pots and pans, especially ones made of cast iron.
• Cut meat, fruit, and vegetables on a cutting board to avoid stainless steel countertop scratches.

The post How to Remove Scratches From Stainless Steel appeared first on Bob Vila.

Gum can easily make its way onto your carpet, whether it’s from a misstep outdoors or from someone accidentally dropping it inside. While it might seem tempting to pull the gum out by hand, doing so can damage your carpet fibers. 

Fortunately, we know a handful of effective ways to remove gum without causing harm to your carpet. Before you begin, it’s always a good idea to test your chosen technique in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it won’t harm your particular carpet’s fibers or coloring.

5 Ways to Remove Gum From Carpet

All of these methods for removing gum from carpet can be completed using simple household items and ingredients. 

1. Ice Cubes

To prevent a sticky situation from getting even stickier, give lodged-in wads of gum the cold shoulder with ice cubes. Gather ice cubes from the freezer, and then follow the following steps:

1. Place a handful of ice cubes in a Ziploc bag and press the ice onto the gum wad. Leave it in place until the gum freezes and hardens.
2. Gently pick at and pull the frozen gum from the carpet using your fingers, a scraping tool, or a butter knife.
3. Start lifting along the edges and move toward the center of the wad, taking care not to remove the carpet fibers along with the gum! (Master this technique, and in the future you can even apply it to upholstery messes and gummed-up clothes.)
4. To deal with any stubborn leftover residue, you can root it out with a few drops of methyl salicylate (such as the pain-relieving cream Bengay).
5. Scrub away any discoloration or carpet stains left in the gum’s wake with a mild carpet-cleaning detergent.
6. Rinse the area with warm water.

If this method doesn’t work quite as well as you’d like, try dabbing a small amount of rubbing alcohol onto a clean white cloth or cotton ball, then gently blot the gum residue. The alcohol will help break down the gum’s stickiness.

2. Hair Dryer

A hair dryer can be an effective way to soften gum, making it easier to remove without damaging your carpet. Here’s how to do it:

1. Set the hair dryer to a low or medium heat setting. You don’t want to overheat the carpet fibers.
2. Hold the dryer a few inches above the gum. Aim the warm air directly at the gum for about 30 seconds to soften it.
3. Once it’s softened, use a dull knife or spoon to carefully lift the gum from the carpet. Avoid pulling too hard to prevent damaging the fibers.
4. After the gum is removed, clean the area with warm soapy water to remove any remaining stickiness.

This method works best for smaller gum spots and is pretty low risk in terms of damaging the carpet.

3. WD-40 

Another household workhorse, WD-40 is also effective for dealing with gum in carpet and rugs. Chewing gum is hydrophobic, which means it can’t be dissolved by water. To break it up, dissolve it using another hydrophobic material, like WD-40. (The WD-40 technique should be a quicker fix than the ice technique, because you won’t have to wait around for the gum to harden.) Here’s what to do:

1. Spray a liberal amount of WD-40 on the chewing-gum stain. Point the spray straw as close as you can to the underside of the area, where the gum meets the carpet. You may need to use your fingers to work the WD-40 into the carpet fibers.
2. Wait 5 or 10 minutes.
3. Using a rag or small scrub brush, wipe or lightly scrub the gum in one direction.
4. Add more WD-40 as needed to remove remaining gum from the carpet. Continue wiping in the same direction.

4. Vinegar

White vinegar has so many uses around the home that it’s no surprise it can also be used to get gum out of carpet. Here’s how natural, do-everything vinegar can get chewing gum from carpet:

1. Warm ¼ cup of white vinegar in the microwave.
2. Dab a clean white cloth or towel into the vinegar, and then dab it onto the gum.
3. Use a putty knife, dull knife, or the side of a spoon to scrape away as much gum as you can.
4. Use an old toothbrush to brush away the remaining gum. (The gum remnants will gunk up the toothbrush entirely, so you’ll want to toss it after using it for this task.)

5. Peanut Butter

Peanut butter is another surprisingly effective way to loosen gum from your carpet. The oils in the peanut butter help break down the gum’s sticky texture, making it easier to lift. However, be prepared for a bit of cleanup afterward. Here’s how to do it:

1. Apply a small amount of peanut butter. Use a spoon or knife to gently spread a thin layer of peanut butter over the gum. Be careful not to push it deeper into the carpet fibers.
2. Allow the peanut butter to sit on the gum for a few minutes to soften it.
3. Use a dull knife or spoon to lift the gum from the carpet. The peanut butter should have loosened it, making it easier to remove.
4. After removing the gum, you’ll need to clean the area well. Use a dish soap and water mixture to remove the oily residue left by the peanut butter. Follow up with a clean, damp cloth to remove any remaining soap.

While this method can be effective, it does require a thorough cleaning afterward to ensure the peanut butter doesn’t leave an oily stain.

Tips for Keeping Your Carpet Clean

How to get old black gum out of carpet

Freeze it off. Place a couple of ice cubes in a plastic bag, and leave the ice on the gum until the gum is hard and brittle. Scrape off frozen gum residue with a putty knife or butter knife.  

How to get gum out of a wool carpet

The freezing tip mentioned above will also work on removing gum stuck in wool carpets. Simply freeze the gum and scrape it off with a sharp edge, without having to worry about whether a solvent will damage the wool.

How to get chewy sweets out of carpet

Begin by blotting the candy with a rag dipped in cold water, which should loosen the sticky bond. Scrape away any large bits of candy, and then apply a stain remover or carpet cleaning solution. Wait a few minutes, then carefully blot the stain remover. If the stain persists, blot it with a clean cloth dipped in white vinegar.

How to get hard stuff out of carpet

It depends on what the hard stuff is. If you know the substance is candle wax, you can either try the ice technique, or use a warm iron. To remove candle wax with an iron, lay a damp white cloth over the stain. Then, with an iron set to low heat, iron the cloth until it absorbs the wax. Repeat as needed, covering the wax with a clean area of the cloth each time.

The post How to Get Gum Out of Carpet appeared first on Bob Vila.

While epoxy’s ability to make tight bonds between a variety of surfaces makes it a great solution for a wide range of repair projects, its two-part application makes it one of the messier adhesives to work with. Since epoxy often sets quickly once mixed, getting it off unintended surfaces can be a challenge. Fortunately, there are simple methods for removing epoxy, whether you’re removing it from wood, metal, or skin. Keep reading to learn the tricks to undoing this seemingly permanent glue.

What Is Epoxy?

Epoxy is an adhesive you can use to bond a variety of materials, including wood, glass, concrete, metal, and stone, making it one of the more versatile adhesives out there. (It can even be used to give old kitchen countertops a glossy update.) Plus, it’s cheap, creates a durable bond, and is easier on the environment than other glues and adhesives. Epoxy comes in two separate parts, a resin and a hardener. You have to mix the two parts just before applying the adhesive. Once mixed, the hardener transforms the epoxy resin into a hard plastic substance that creates a bond between the two materials you’re gluing together.

How to Remove Epoxy From Skin

Wearing disposable gloves is a good first line of defense when working on an epoxy project, but accidents can happen. If you do get some epoxy on your skin, remove it immediately before it cures using one of the following methods:

• Vinegar: Soak a paper towel or cloth with vinegar and stroke it on the affected area until the epoxy softens enough to peel off.
• Acetone: If the vinegar fails, apply acetone or an acetone-based nail polish remover, which can dissolve uncured epoxy. Pour some acetone onto a paper towel and apply it to the glue to remove it, then rinse your skin thoroughly. Acetone vapors can be strong, so use it in a well-ventilated space.
• Citrus-based hand cleaners: Commonly used for grease removal by mechanics, citrus-based hand cleaners can also remove epoxy from your skin. Pour a small amount directly on the affected skin and rub to remove the adhesive. Wipe off or rinse under warm water; repeat if necessary. After the epoxy is removed, thoroughly wash the area and use hand lotion to soothe and heal your skin.

Safety Tip: While epoxy coming into contact with your skin isn’t a major cause for alarm, the resin can be a skin irritant and cause an allergic reaction for some people. Consider wearing gloves while using epoxy if you’re concerned about the glue coming into contact with your skin.

How to Remove Epoxy From Plastic or Glass

Epoxy might provide a quick fix for repairing broken plastic pieces or sealing a cracked window pane, but it can be a pain to remove excess glue from these surfaces. Follow the steps below to remove it:

1. Soak a paper towel in isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and rub it on the surface until the epoxy loosens. If the alcohol isn’t effective, try using a stronger solvent such as denatured alcohol or paint thinner.
2. Using a scraper tool, gently pry the epoxy from the surface.
3. Once the epoxy is removed, use a clean, wet rag to remove any remaining solvents from the surface.

How to Remove Epoxy From Concrete or Wood

Finishing a garage floor with epoxy paint is a popular use of the product, but sometimes the resin can get in places it’s not supposed to go. Avoid using alcohol and paint thinners, which can damage or discolor wood finishes and cause pitting in concrete. Instead, try the methods below:

• Acetone: Apply the acetone to the area with a cloth and rub it into the surface. The idea is to get the acetone to surround and loosen the epoxy, making it easy to peel away. Give it about 5 minutes to soak in. Using a scraper, gently work the epoxy loose. Any excess acetone will evaporate.
• Heat gun: Pull on leather work gloves to protect your hands and hold a heat gun, set to about 200 degrees Fahrenheit, several inches above the affected area. Move the nozzle in small circles to heat the epoxy evenly and avoid creating burn marks on the concrete or wood. Once the epoxy has softened, use a scraper to remove it from the wood or concrete.

Tried-and-True Advice

“One trick I’ve found helpful when working with epoxy on small projects is to keep a small bowl of sand or baking soda nearby. If epoxy drips accidentally onto surface or your tools, sprinkling sand or baking soda over the spill immediately absorbs the excess and prevents it from spreading further. Once the epoxy has hardened, the gritty surface makes it easier to scrape off without damaging the material underneath. This tip saved me from ruining a DIY project!”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

How to Remove Epoxy From Metal and Hard Surfaces

The above removal techniques using acetone or a heat gun will also work on errant epoxy that dripped on metal or other hard, nonporous surfaces, such as metal door jambs or your favorite toolbox. If acetone fails, try the methods below:

• Chemical: Try a chemical adhesive remover, usually sold in hardware stores as sprays or liquids meant to be applied with a cloth. Be sure to wear gloves to protect your skin when using these chemicals and carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Spray refrigerant: Use a refrigerant spray on the offending epoxy to freeze it. After spraying the epoxy, it should become brittle, making it easy to chip away with a scraper. Spray refrigerant is also a dangerous chemical, so gear up with safety goggles and gloves and work in a well-ventilated area when using it.

How to Remove Epoxy From Fabrics

If you’ve found a dollop of epoxy on your work clothes, there is a way to remove the epoxy without ruining the fabric. Acetone or paint thinners may discolor or dissolve fabrics, while abrasive methods like scraping could easily damage the delicate weave of the material. That leaves heating the epoxy as the easiest way to loosen and peel it away: Dip the fabric in a pot of boiling water for a few seconds at a time, then lift it out of the water with tongs to gently peel away the epoxy. (Since it will be hot, wear rubber kitchen gloves or use cooking utensils instead of your fingers.)

Fabrics such as cotton and linen won’t be damaged by boiling water, but beware of melting synthetic fabrics or shrinking wool. For fabrics that cannot withstand heat, try rubbing with—or soaking in—vinegar before washing in cool water.

Epoxy Removal Tips

• Time is of the essence when attempting to remove epoxy. While it’s possible to remove epoxy once it’s cured, it’s much easier to remove it while it’s still in the drying process.
• The above methods are for removing small amounts of epoxy from small areas. If you’re trying to remove epoxy adhesive or paint from a large area, such as a concrete garage floor, then you’ll need to use a large machine, such as a grinder or industrial scraper.
• If you’re using a solvent to remove epoxy, try testing the solvent first on an inconspicuous part of the material to make sure it doesn’t damage it.

The post How to Remove Epoxy From Different Surfaces appeared first on Bob Vila.

Plastic is a huge part of our daily routine, making our lives more convenient. But many of us don’t realize how prevalent plastic is in our home—in everything from clothing to cookware to cleaning supplies. Besides the devastating amount of waste resulting from over 460 million metric tons of plastic produced each year globally, according to the United Nations Environment Programme, there are also health concerns to consider.  

Convenient plastic products like water bottles and food containers break down over time into tiny pieces less than 5 millimeters in size called microplastics. Consumer products like synthetic clothing fabric, cleaners, toothpaste, and skincare (e.g., microbeads) also contain the plastics. Microplastics can even appear as dust in our homes. 

Unfortunately, microplastics made from harmful chemicals like BPA (bisphenol A) and forever chemicals like PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are showing up more often in the water we drink and food we eat, and even making their way into our bodies. This has raised a red flag about the health damage that can result, including developmental, reproductive, and hormonal problems.  

As more people recognize these risks, it’s important to figure out how to avoid microplastics. Here are some steps you can take to reduce your exposure to microplastics in your home and boost home health and safety.

Avoid single-use plastics.

Plastics can take hundreds or even thousands of years to decompose. By avoiding using plastic products in the first place, you can make a dent in the amount of microplastics in the environment overall. This is especially critical with single-use plastics, or items meant to be used only once and then thrown away, like straws and take-out food containers. 

One study revealed that some plastic water bottles contain as many as 10,000 microplastic particles. Some locations have banned single-use products, but it’s really up to individuals to shift how much they use.

Here are a few ways to reduce single-use plastics in your life:

• Eat more fresh produce, such as by shopping at farmers markets, instead of items sold in plastic packaging.
• Replace single-use plastic water bottles with refillable BPA-free ones.
• Bring your own fabric bags when shopping.
• Ask for paper instead of plastic bags.
• Look for zero-waste grocery stores and other eco-conscious retailers.
• Swap disposable plastic straws for reusable metal, glass, or bamboo straws.

Change up your laundry routine.

Switching how you do laundry can significantly reduce the amount of microplastics produced in your home. As clothes tumble around in the washer and dryer, fibers can break down and shed microplastics. Synthetic fabrics made from plastic, such as polyester, acrylic, and nylon, are the biggest culprits, releasing hundreds of thousands of microplastics per load. 

Here are some adjustments you can make:

• Wash your clothing less often, and wash only full loads with cold water on a short cycle.
• Buy items made of natural fabrics like silk, wool, bamboo, organic cotton, and hemp instead of synthetics. 
• Opt for unscented liquid detergent since powder detergent can be abrasive. 
• Install a fiber-catching filter in your laundry machine to keep microplastics from washing out with the wastewater.
• Invest in a microfiber laundry bag to trap microplastics.
• Throw in a laundry ball to keep microfibers from breaking off of clothes in the first place.
• Avoid the delicate wash setting, which uses more water than a normal cycle.
• Air-dry clothes using a drying rack or clothesline.

Install an effective water filter.

Unfortunately, microplastics have been detected in our drinking water as well. In fact, a 2019 study revealed that plastic fibers are in nearly 95 percent of samples of U.S. tap water. By installing a water filter, you can address this issue in your own home. 

Choose a reverse osmosis water filtration system, known to be the most effective filtering option. Reverse osmosis is a process that uses energy to force water through an extremely thin semi-permeable membrane that separates chemicals from the water. An under-the-sink reverse osmosis system costs about $200 to $300, plus an additional $200 to $300 a year to maintain. Whole-house reverse osmosis versions also are available; they can cost thousands of dollars and require a plumber to install them.

Swap nonstick cookware for healthier alternatives.

While nonstick pots and pans add ease to cooking and cleaning afterward, they could be harming your health. A new collaborative study in 2024 found that the synthetic chemicals used in nonstick cookware can release microplastics into food during food preparation. If the coating in Teflon pans, for example, is scratched or broken, millions of microplastics can be released when heated. Choose safer cookware alternatives like cast-iron, ceramic, carbon steel, and stainless steel pans that have stood the test of time. 

Choose eco-friendly cleaning supplies.

Conventional cleaning supplies filled with toxic chemicals like bleach, ammonia, and phthalates that are stored in plastic containers can shed tiny plastic particles over time. Replace these cleaners with more eco-friendly brands like those approved by the Environmental Protection Agency’s Safer Choice program or DIY alternatives like baking soda and vinegar. 

Additionally, ditch melamine sponges for more eco-friendly options. Recent research shows how melamine foam, such as the material found in the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponges, contains microplastics that end up in the water supply, soil, and food chain as the sponges disintegrate. Microfiber dishcloths and kitchen brushes also shed microplastics. 

Choose safer alternatives like Swedish dishcloths made from wood pulp and cotton, cellulose sponges made from wood pulp or plant cellulose, coconut scrubbers made from coconut fibers or husks, loofahs made from dried gourds, bamboo brushes made of bamboo and natural bristles, and hemp sponges made of hemp fibers. 

The post How to Reduce Microplastics in Your Home in 2025 appeared first on Bob Vila.

I recently had a great experience testing the new DeWalt FlexVolt 60V MAX 1,000 PSI Power Cleaner during an end-of-season yard cleanup. Power cleaners are similar to electric or gas pressure washers that create a high pressure water jet for cleaning hard surfaces, but they are more compact and almost exclusively battery powered. Since pressure washers are a mainstay tool in building construction and maintenance, it’s no wonder that DeWalt has produced them for years. In this DeWalt FlexVolt 60V Power Cleaner review, I will share my experience from testing this unit and why I recommend it. 

DeWalt FlexVolt 60V MAX 1,000 PSI Power Cleaner: At a Glance
Our rating: 4.5/5

Testing the DeWalt FlexVolt 60V MAX 1,000 PSI Power Cleaner 

I tested the DeWalt power cleaner this fall when I had to put away patio furniture and outdoor pottery for the season. Since my regular pressure washer produces a 3,000 PSI stream, it’s great for the driveway, deck, and house siding, but not so much for small or lightweight items, or delicate finishes that are susceptible to damage. So I normally spend an afternoon with a scrub brush and soapy water cleaning these things before storing them. I took a chance this year using the 1,000 PSI power cleaner, and it did a great job. 

Essentially, using the power cleaner worked the same as cleaning with a big pressure washer. It came with a variety of different spray nozzles and a soap sprayer to accommodate different cleaning needs. But the moderate water pressure and reduced flow rate on the power cleaner afforded better control than I would ever have with my gas powered pressure washer. Also, it has the ability to intake water from either a hose outlet or a bucket of water, which makes it more convenient when a hose bib is not available. Best of all, it saved about 2 hours of scrubbing and allowed more time for everything to dry thoroughly after cleaning and before storing it for the winter. 

Just Right for Smaller Cleaning Projects

For cleaning small, lightweight items and sensitive surfaces, you need just the right amount of water pressure. Rated 1,000 PSI, this tool produces about 18 times the pressure of a garden hose, but less than half the pressure of most gas powered pressure washers. The kit includes a quick connect wand, turbo nozzle, 15-degree, 25-degree, and 40 degree nozzles, soap cannon, shoulder strap, suction hose with quick connect adapter, and a mesh storage bag. The kit I tested also came with a battery charger and 9 amp hour FlexVolt battery, but the tool is also available for a lower price without the battery. 

A Portable Power Cleaner That Boaters and RVers Will Appreciate

The DeWalt Power Cleaner is one of the most portable pressure-type cleaners I’ve used. It is significantly smaller than gas-powered or plug-in electric pressure washers. When disassembled, it is small enough to stow in a storage tote or large tool box. That makes it easy to transport also, which boaters and RVers will appreciate. The whole kit only weighs about 14.5 pounds.

As for mobility while working, one of my favorite features was the option to either tap into a hose outlet or pull water from any fresh water source. When an outdoor faucet was nearby, I connected to a garden hose as with any other pressure washer. But if I was working far from a faucet, I didn’t need to connect multiple hoses for longer reach. I simply brought a bucket of water to the project and used the included intake hose. It only took a few seconds for the self-priming pump to pull in water so I could start cleaning. The 1-gallon per minute flow rate meant that a 5 gallon bucket of water only provided 5 minutes of cleaning time. But a larger water source like a rain barrel, pool, or lake could provide nearly unlimited time.

Good Run Time and Modest Pressure for Light Duty Cleaning

For light duty cleaning over a larger area, the self-priming pump and 20-foot intake hose is less convenient. It doesn’t provide enough mobility, so I found myself constantly repositioning the bucket. I really liked the modest pressure for washing my car, but needed to connect to a garden hose that I could just drag around the car as I worked. It’s also important to note that this unit is not designed for tough cleaning jobs; for instance, it was under-powered for cleaning mildew off my driveway.

DeWalt claims that the included FlexVolt battery delivers up to 37 minutes of constant run time per charge, but that didn’t seem accurate to me. I actually got better results. With typical use patterns–intermittent trigger blasts of 5 to 30 seconds at a time–it gave me 90 minutes of cleaning time before depleting the battery. That was enough time to clean a patio table, four chairs, a bench, and about 30 garden pots of different sizes. So it really proved to be an ideal tool for small items. It did not damage my wood bench, chip clay pots, or knock over pottery, and I finished the job in about one-third the time it typically takes me to scrub everything by hand.

Why I Think the DeWalt FlexVolt Power Cleaner Is Worth The Premium Price

At a regular price of $349.00, the DeWalt 1,000 PSI Power Cleaner kit is one of the more expensive tools in its class, but with good reason. Most of the small cordless power cleaners are significantly less powerful, ranging between 300 and 700 PSI with flow rates averaging about 0.8 gallons per minute. This one delivers about double the cleaning power, and the kit I tested includes a high quality battery and charger. Those who already have DeWalt FlexVolt batteries could purchase the power cleaner as a bare tool for $199.00.

Buy the DeWalt FlexVolt 60V MAX 1,000 PSI Power Cleaner on:

• Acme Tools for $349.00
• ToolUp for $349.00
• Tool Nut for $349.00

Product Comparisons

So, is the DeWalt FlexVolt 60V MAX 1,000 PSI Power Cleaner right for you?

If you’re looking for a battery powered pressure washer that will perform similarly to gas, this one is not for you. The DeWalt FlexVolt 60V Max 1,000 PSI Power Cleaner is a light duty tool with cleaning ability on par with plug-in electric models. But it’s better than the corded ones, because you can take it anywhere. In fact, its compact size and portability may be the most compelling reasons to consider buying it. It can draw water for cleaning out of a bucket, barrel, pool, or pond if need be, and runs for more than an hour per charge.

The DeWalt power cleaner comes with all the accessories necessary for deep cleaning. The whole kit weighs less than 15 pounds, and packs down into a surprisingly small drawstring bag. It produces adequate pressure and flow to clear away a season’s buildup of dirt and grime from patio furniture and pottery, and it could keep your boat or RV neat and clean. If you would like to save time and energy that you used to spend on scrubbing. This could be a smart pick.

Meet the Tester

Mark Wolfe is a writer and product tester who spent 20 years in the nursery and landscaping industry. For more than twenty years he mowed, edged, planted, pruned, cultivated, irrigated, and renovated beautiful landscapes. Now he tests and writes reviews about the latest outdoor power equipment, hand tools, lawn care products, and other outdoor living goods.

The post I Hated Scrubbing My Patio Furniture Clean—Now I Don’t Need To appeared first on Bob Vila.

Keeping your home clean can be a challenge. When you have limited mobility—whether due to a recent injury or a chronic condition—it can seem nearly impossible. Fortunately, making a few modifications to your cleaning routine or the tools and products you use can make a huge difference in your ability to keep your home clean. Continue reading to learn some accessible house cleaning tips and tricks to prevent mobility limitations from standing in your way of having a clean home to enjoy.

1. Switch to lightweight cleaning tools.

If you’re still using your ancient vacuum that weighs a ton or any other heavy cleaning tools and products, now is the time to make a switch. “It may not seem like it, but carting a heavy vacuum around the whole house will actually wear you out. Find lightweight tools that you can easily drag or carry on your lap,” recommends Chris Willatt, the founder of Alpine Maids, a company that provides home cleaning services in the Denver, Colorado, area. You’ll find that there are many lightweight stick vacuums on the market—such as the Bissell Cleanview XR Pet Cordless Vacuum. Many of these are cordless, so you also won’t need to worry about navigating between outlets to unplug or re-plugin the machine.

2. Grab a grabber tool to help you.

If bending down to pick up things or reach inside the washer or dryer is a challenge, then a grabber tool, such as the RMS Featherweight The Original Reacher, may be the ideal solution. These tools can help you extend your reach. Simply squeeze the trigger using your hands to open or close the claw at the base of the long arm. Some more advanced models may also offer a rotating head to help you work at the most comfortable angle for each task.

3. Spread tasks out over several days or weeks.

“Cleaning does not have to be done in a day, and cutting it up into multiple weeks can often make the chore more manageable,” says Willatt. Instead of trying to clean your whole house in a single day, he recommends spreading tasks out over several weeks to limit fatigue or stress. “Pick a room a week to clean and clean your house over a month. If you get tired, stop cleaning and push your schedule back a week,” says Willatt.

4. Try some tricks that will lessen your workload.

Learning tricks that will lessen your workload isn’t cheating—it’s working smarter and can help keep your cleaning tasks much more manageable. For example, instead of scrubbing the stuck-on gunk on the inside of your microwave, cut up a lemon and place it in a microwave-safe bowl. Heat the bowl in the microwave for a few minutes and let it sit for a few additional minutes to cool. After removing it, wipe down the inside of the appliance—the hot and steamy lemon juice should have loosened the gunk, making it easier to wipe clean. 

Another cleaning trick is to hang your wrinkled laundry in the bathroom while you shower. The steam will release the wrinkles, saving you the time and hassle of pulling out the iron and ironing board.

5. Invest in cleaning tools to help you reach up high or down low.

When you have low mobility, it can be especially challenging to clean objects or surfaces that are up high or down near the floor level, such as ceiling fans, crown molding, and baseboards. “I recommend getting a long duster and a Baseboard Buddy,” says Willatt. “These tools will allow you to clean your baseboards and molding without having to get on your hands and knees and your ceiling fan without having to get on a ladder.” Just like a stand-up weeder can help those with low mobility maintain their garden, these tools can help accomplish otherwise nearly impossible home cleaning tasks.

6. Clean more than dishes in the dishwasher.

The dishwasher can be a huge asset if you have limited mobility. But, did you know that it can help you clean more than just dishes? Get the most out of this appliance by using it to clean other items around the house, further simplifying your job. Always confirm by checking the manufacturer’s recommendations, but some of the items you can clean in a dishwasher include vases, plastic combs, many children’s toys (plastic or rubber toys that are not electric), shower heads, and oven racks.

7. Assess your furniture layout and any potential trip hazards.

Enhancing home safety for the elderly and other individuals with limited mobility can also make cleaning easier. Area rugs, stair runners, and exposed cords can make it more difficult (and dangerous) to navigate through a home. Removing these trip hazards can help you or family members with limited mobility move more freely throughout their home, making cleaning it a more realistic (and safer) possibility.

Changing the furniture layout may also help make it easier to move throughout the home. Consider getting someone to help you place furniture to create a more open floor plan, allowing you or others to move through the space using mobility aids, such as a wheelchair, walker, or crutches. 

8. Look for products that will make it easier to navigate your home.

Beyond removing trip hazards and being purposeful with where you place your furniture, you may also want to consider investing in a few new products that will help you navigate your home. For example, a rolling stool—like this one from Vapaa Taide—can allow you to sit closer to the ground without having to kneel or bend. This may help make it more comfortable—or simply possible—to complete certain tasks like cleaning up spills on the floor. You may also want to consider installing some grab bars or sturdier railings on your staircases. If you’re aging in place, making modifications such as these can help ensure that your home continues to meet your needs.

9. Use technology to your advantage.

Technology has come a long way over the past few years. Some of these advancements are evident in the types of cleaning tools and products that are on the market, many of which can greatly reduce the workload necessary to clean various areas of the home. One of the most obvious examples is the robot vacuum, which can be a huge help in keeping your floors clean. Some models—like the Roborock Q5 Pro+—will also mop the hard floors in your home. Choosing a self-emptying robot vacuum will further reduce your role, as these bases can hold several weeks of dust and dirt before they need to be emptied.

10. Ask for and accept help.

There is no shame in asking for help if there are specific tasks that you are not able to safely or logistically complete. Chances are, your friends and family are more than willing to do what they can to help make your life easier and more enjoyable, and maintaining a clean home can certainly fall into both of those categories. Willatt also suggests hiring “someone to do a deep clean for you once or twice per year,” while you keep up with more of the daily and weekly cleaning tasks.

The post 10 Easy Ways to Keep a Clean House When You Have Low Mobility appeared first on Bob Vila.

Does your enthusiasm for electronics have you living in a jungle of cords? Given the sheer volume of wires that dwell in a modern home, figuring out how to hide TV wires, cords, and cables for other must-have gadgets can be frustrating. But before you hit a point of swearing off technology altogether, check out the cord management solutions below. You can buy or DIY to disguise or hide every wire in sight and permanently improve the organization of your home.

1. Hook cords to the back of your furniture.

Dangling cords disappear quickly when you anchor them to the silhouette of the nearest furniture. To do so, adhere clear cord clips like these Command Cord Clips along the back edges of your furniture. Like most of the line of renter-friendly solutions from 3M, you’ll need to press the clips in place for 30 seconds and, an hour later, you can hook in one or more cords and have them run neatly down the legs of your console. (These hooks help hide charging cords and cables at your desk really well, too!)

If you’re feeling a bit craftier, you can hide a tangle of cables behind a stand-mounted TV by incorporating built-in cord storage into the design of your TV stand. This TV table designed by Heidi from Kruse’s Workshop (and featured on Tatertots & Jello) keeps cables contained in a notch that runs down the middle leg at the back of the unit. You can recreate the stand from scratch with reclaimed wood: Follow our detailed instructions for how to use a table saw to create a recessed groove in the back leg, then run the cords for your TV and other entertainment essentials down the groove in the leg to keep them out of sight.

2. Corral cables behind the couch.

Disguise the clutter of all those charging cords with this slim sofa table from Etsy seller MittenStateWoodworks. At just 5.5 inches deep, the table tucks neatly behind any couch and features a built-in outlet with two USB ports for charging your personal electronics out of sight. You can also plug in a lamp for additional lighting and display your favorite decor on the table, too. Just be sure to keep drinks and other liquids away from the table’s electrical components.

3. Hide TV wires in plain sight.

If the cords dangling from your wall-mounted TV are distracting you from what’s on screen, conceal them with cord covers like the D-Line Cable Raceway, a favorite in our researched guide to the best cable management solutions. Plastic tracks like these mount directly to the wall on top of wires.

To install and effectively hide TV wires, measure the span of wall between the base of the screen and the floor—that’s the length of cord cover you need, and you can often cut to fit. In the case of the Cable Raceway, you’ll cut the base and top of the cord cover using a hacksaw. Then, mount the raceway base to the wall with screws according to the manufacturer’s instructions, lay the TV cords inside the channel, and snap the cover in place over the top. Cord covers are typically sold in neutral colors like white or metallic gray that can stand out if your wall is a different color. But when painted the same color as your wall (using latex-based paint), they seamlessly blend into the space.

4. Run TV wires inside the wall.

The best solution for keeping the cords of a wall-mounted TV out of sight involves hiding them behind the wall itself using recessed cable plates like the DataComm Easy Mount Cable Organizer Kit. Remove the TV from the wall (or move it aside if your TV has an adjustable arm), and then use a stud finder to find two stud-free sections of the wall: one behind where the screen would sit, and another further down the wall near an outlet. These are where you’ll make your cuts using a utility knife, fit two cable plates, and feed the TV cords in and out of the wall. Your guests may just mistake your new media setup for a wireless entertainment system.

5. Tuck cord chaos into tubing.

Can’t manage the melange of cords in your home office for PCs, monitors, phones, printers, and other devices used daily? A cable wrap like the AGPTEK 5-foot cable sleeve cover provides an easy way to consolidate all the loose cords that dangle from your desk. Simply bundle them together in your hands, and wrap the two-foot-long pieces of flexible tubing around the wires to corral them into one larger one and minimize chaos. Thanks to the wraparound tubing, you can break out and redirect wires from the group anywhere along the stretch so that they can reach exactly where they need to go.

6. Slip them into a drawer.

Making a few creative modifications to a desk drawer can do away with the eyesore of a clunky power strip parked on the floor and overflowing with cords. With a hole saw bit attached to your power drill, drill a hole into the back panel of the desk drawer located near a wall outlet. Then, feed the power strip cable through the hole and use double-sided adhesive to mount the back of the power strip itself to the same drawer panel. As you plug electronics into the power strip, create a space for each gadget to rest while it charges in the drawer, just as home blogger Jenny Steffens Hobick does in her kitchen cabinetry.

If you’d rather buy than DIY, check out the Compact In-Drawer Outlet Charging Station that attaches to the back of your desk, kitchen cabinet, or other furniture drawers.

7. Snake cords through baseboard accessories.

Eliminate the tripping hazard of a cable running the length of your home office, living room, or bedroom by outfitting existing baseboards in the room with baseboard cord channels. The self-adhesive, impact-resistant cord channels are little more than hollowed-out sections of plastic quarter round shoe molding. To mount the channels to your baseboards, peel off the adhesive backing of a channel, press the back of the channel against a baseboard, and then run an ethernet cable—or any other cord, for that matter—through the opening in the channel to simultaneously hide and protect the cables from damage. Stainable and paintable, the baseboard cord channels can be dressed to match any interior design aesthetic.

8. Stash wires and routers in “books.”

Your router or modem can appear out of place almost wherever you fit it, but especially so on your shelves. Consider bookending your home library with this creative router cover available from Etsy seller Covobox. You could also DIY a version of this by repurposing a binder that’s wide enough to fit your router and using hot glue to cover the back, front, and spine of the binder with colorful scrap fabric. Then sandwich the binder vertically between some books on an end table, desk, or shelf so that the router cables discreetly run down the length of the wall behind the furniture. Voilà! An instant classic that cuts cord clutter.

9. Follow the chair rail.

Homeowners who are thinking of decorating their walls with a chair rail have an opportunity for cleverly disguising the wire of a wall-mounted TV or other cords: Use a cord cover raceway like this corner cable hider from ZGYJM that’s designed for baseboards, but flip it 90 degrees so a flat side is on top. Then position it underneath 1-by material that runs the length of the wall. The corner cord concealer will look like part of the molding, and you can use a vertical cord chaser to run vertically to the outlet. Just make sure to paint the cord covers so they blend with the decor.

10. Add living room furniture with hidden outlets.

Instead of plugging everything into the wall, minimize the number of cords that need a wall plug with furniture that has integrated outlets and USB ports like the Lark Manor Avetis end table. A slim table at just 13.8 inches wide, the end table has a partial flip-top that conceals two standard outlets and two USB ports. You’ll still need to run its 6.5-foot-long power cord to run to an outlet, but that’s just one instead of potentially five.

11. Camouflage cords on the floor.

If you find yourself in the situation presented above, with furniture or electronics that need to be plugged into wall outlets but are nowhere near them, sometimes the easiest solution can be the best. Instead of worrying about moving electronics and furniture so wires are closer to outlets, just run the wires along the floor and cover them with a floor cord cover that looks like wood from Electriduct to blend in with your flooring. In colors from cherry to dark brown, the strips mimic wood grain, too.

12. Add wainscoting to create a channel for wires.

Beyond covering and concealing cords along the floor on inside furniture, consider giving the room a stylish upgrade that offers an easy-ish way to conceal cords and move outlets to where you actually need them. By installing wainscoting like beadboard an inch or so in front of the wall, there’s space to run conduit like this 10-foot-long PVC conduit, which can house TV cords or other wires. Make sure to cap it with chair rail and trim the bottom with baseboard for a finished look.

Bonus: The beadboard also opens up the opportunity to move outlets to where you actually want them, and there’s no need to finish drywall. Just make sure to hire an electrician if you aren’t experienced working with electricity.

The post 12 Genius Ways to Hide Every Wire in Your Home appeared first on Bob Vila.

A roll of duct tape can be found in almost every toolbox in the world, thanks to its versatility, accessibility, and the fact that it quite literally sticks like glue. That’s because duct tape is formulated with natural rubber compounds to provide reliable, long-term adhesion. But that blessing is also a curse when the time comes to remove the tape and all traces of it. Cleanup is no easy task.

6 Ways to Remove Duct Tape Residue

The six fixes here are effective for removing duct tape residue from wood, glass, vinyl, and other materials without damaging the surface itself.

1. Scrape the tape residue off.

In cases where duct tape residue is minimal and not too stubborn, a simple scraping session with a putty knife (or a butter knife, in a pinch) can banish the gunk. Start from one end of the affected area, moving slowly to the other with small, repetitive scrapes, holding the blade nearly parallel to the surface so as not to gouge. Be especially patient and careful when working with wood and vinyl, which are easily damaged. A credit card can also work well if you don’t have a putty knife. 

2. Loosen the tape with warm water.

Warm water can often effectively remove duct tape residue from glass, vinyl, linoleum, and other surfaces that have a high-gloss finish. The heat softens the structure of the glue, while the viscosity helps push it away. Apply plain water with a sponge or microfiber cloth, scrubbing with quick, back-and-forth strokes.

If that fails, add a drop or two of hand soap or dishwashing liquid to further break down the bond. For particularly stubborn goo, and only on water-resistant surfaces, soak the item in warm soapy water, or cover it with a warm, wet, soapy sponge or rag, for 10 to 20 minutes. Then wipe dry, banishing the gunk as you go.

3. Use vinegar.

A vinegar-and-water mixture is an easy way to remove tape adhesive. Mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a spray bottle, then spray directly onto the sticky residue. Let this sit for 5 to 10 minutes to loosen the adhesive. Then, wipe it away with a clean cloth, or gently scrape with a plastic scraper. 

Keep in mind, though, that this method may not be ideal for surfaces like unfinished wood, natural stone, or delicate materials. This is because vinegar is acidic and can cause damage. You should always test the solution on a small area that’s out of the way to make sure it doesn’t harm the surface.

4. Dissolve it with rubbing alcohol. 

Rubbing alcohol can dissolve duct tape adhesive from a nonporous surface. This solvent is unsuitable for most painted materials, and should always be patch tested first, even on metal and glass. 

Dab a rag soaked in isopropyl alcohol (the kind you probably have in your medicine cabinet) and test a small, inconspicuous area of residue first. If the test patch proves successful, proceed by covering the gunk with alcohol, working in small sections, and letting the liquid evaporate to the point where you can easily wipe away whatever matter is left behind.

If you don’t have any rubbing alcohol at hand, you can always use hand sanitizer; it has a high alcohol content and can also break down tape adhesive. 

Duct Tape Residue Removal Tips

Whichever removal method you choose, follow these rules of thumb for getting tape residue off:

• Test a small area first: Before using any of our methods, test it on a small, inconspicuous spot to make sure you don’t damage the surface. 

• Apply enough pressure: Whether you’re wiping or scraping, use firm but controlled pressure to effectively remove the residue without harming the material underneath. 

Try a commercial adhesive remover: If home remedies aren’t cutting it, try a commercial adhesive remover (like Goo Gone, for example). Follow the product’s instructions carefully and make sure it’s safe for the surface you’re working on.

5. Lubricate it with WD-40 or cooking oil.

Oil and other water-displacing lubricants can help with tape residue removal. If you’re removing tape from glass, linoleum, vinyl, or finished wood, reach for WD-40. (If you haven’t got a can handy, substitute room-temperature vegetable oil straight from your kitchen cabinet.) 

Wear gloves to protect your skin and spray the surface entirely, then wait a few seconds before using your gloved finger to smooth away duct tape residue. Then wash away the remaining oil with soap and water. Never use oil or other lubricants on unfinished wood; it will sink into the pores for good—and that’s bad!

6. Heat it up.

Hot air can weaken the adhesion of duct tape residue, making it easier to remove from such surfaces as unfinished and flat-painted wood, on which you wouldn’t use oil or water. This method may require some extra effort but it’s probably your safest bet, as it doesn’t involve any liquids that could penetrate porous surfaces and cause discoloration or damage. 

Crank a hair dryer on its highest setting several inches from the offending material for a minute at a time between each attempt to scrape it off. Work in small sections, administering as many hot air blasts as necessary to remove everything. Be cautious when using heat on delicate or heat-sensitive surfaces, as it may cause warping, discoloration, or other damage.

How to Avoid Leaving Duct Tape Residue

Using the right kind of tape for the task at hand can help prevent sticky messes later. Not all tapes are the same: Some are designed for rough, outdoor surfaces, while others work better on smooth, indoor materials. Choosing a tape that’s specifically suited to your project will not only ensure better adhesion but also make removal easier. Make sure the surface is clean and dry before applying duct tape. Dust, grease, or moisture can weaken the bond and lead to a frustrating experience when the tape doesn’t stick properly.

It’s also worth noting that even the best duct tape isn’t ideal for all surfaces. Avoid using it on delicate materials like painted walls, wallpaper, or unfinished wood, as it can peel off finishes or leave stubborn residue. Similarly, duct tape may not stick well to porous surfaces like brick or concrete. Understanding these limitations will save you time, effort, and the hassle of cleaning up residue later on.

The post How to Remove Duct Tape Residue appeared first on Bob Vila.

There’s no such thing as a truly refreshing bathing experience in a shower that looks, or even feels, dirty. To keep the tub, tile, grout, liner and door impeccably clean, laborious scrubbing is rarely necessary. You can normally get by just fine with light cleaning, as long as you do so consistently, and after each use.

DIY Shower Cleaner Recipes

Homemade shower cleaner costs almost nothing to make and contains just a few simple ingredients you probably have on hand in your pantry. That said, no matter how dutifully you clean the shower, there are occasions that call for deeper cleaning. We have recipes to help you handle that, too.

1. Daily Cleaning

White vinegar is inexpensive, readily available, nontoxic and wonderfully effective when diluted in an everyday cleaner.

1. Fill a spray bottle with equal parts vinegar and water, and you should have enough to last at least a couple of weeks.
2. Spray down the shower after each time you use it, and the homemade shower cleaner will combat odors and prevent the growth of bacteria and the buildup of grime.

If you’re not fond of the smell of vinegar, add in a few drops of the essential oil of your choice.

2. Biweekly Cleaning

Even if you are consistent about using the daily homemade shower cleaner, chances are that you’ll need to deep clean the shower a couple of times a month to make it sparkle.

1. On those occasions, mix 1 or 2 cups of baking soda with a few drops of liquid dish soap.
2. Use a scrub brush or sponge to apply the cleanser, and run the shower to rinse the cleaner.

The baking soda acts as an abrasive agent to dislodge stubborn residue, while the soap breaks down grease and oils.

3. Mold Fighting Formula

With all its moisture, cracks, and crevices, the shower is a breeding ground for mold and mildew. If you get behind on your cleaning regimen and your shower starts looking a little murky, whip up this mix to get it back to rights.

1. In a large spray bottle or pump sprayer, combine 1/3 cup ammonia, 1/4 cup white vinegar, 1/2 cup baking soda, and 7 cups of water.
2. Spray down the shower, then watch as the vinegar and baking soda together create a cleansing, bubbling foam.
3. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe down the tiles and tub with a damp cloth.
4. Run the shower again to rinse away the cleaner.

4. Shower Door Cleaner

Cleaning shower doors is a two-stage approach, but the mixtures for each stage, just two ingredients each, barely count as recipes.

1. First, mix baking soda and water into a thick paste, then use a sponge to apply that paste to the glass.
2. After rinsing the paste, spray on a mixture of equal parts water and vinegar.
3. Finishing by wiping the glass with a soft cloth that won’t leave streaks.

The post How to Make Homemade Shower Cleaner appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you are your household’s designated bathroom cleaner (or if you pay attention to your surroundings when you’re in the shower or bath), you’ve probably seen your fair share of soap scum. It’s a sad irony of housekeeping that a substance that gets your body clean can make your shower or bathtub so grungy.

Soap scum forms when the fatty acids, talc, and other ingredients in bar soap react with the minerals in hard water, and builds up on your bathroom surfaces. Soap scum also contains body oil, dirt, bits of dead skin, and bacteria. When it’s left to harden, the buildup is incredibly difficult to remove from a shower or tub.

When it comes to how to get rid of soap scum, there are many successful methods and products that you can try to get the job done. Read on to find the approach that’s right for you.

Cleaning Soap Scum

Trying to solve the problem of what removes soap scum reveals no shortage of cleaning solutions, including both ready-made formulas and homemade soap scum remover recipes. Some of these substances and materials can be used simultaneously for particularly thick or tough buildup.

Store-Bought Cleaners

Some popular commercial cleaning products have cracked the code on how to clean years of soap scum. These two options are effective, easy-to-use, and readily available.

• Lysol Power Foamer Bathroom Cleaner is the top pick in our guide to the best shower tile cleaners, and a great choice for bathtub soap scum removal. Simply spray your tub and shower walls with the foam and give it a few minutes to cut through the greasy grime. Rinse and wipe down the surfaces with a sponge, scrub brush, or cloth. Follow up with a clean towel to dry all of the now-tidy surfaces, crevices, and fixtures. (You want to dry your showering space because moisture attracts yucky soap scum buildup, and can also lead to mold and mildew growth.)
• It’s commonly recommended to clean almost any bathroom surface, but can a Magic Eraser remove soap scum? The answer is, somewhat unsurprisingly, yes. Wet a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Bath or other melamine sponge, squeeze it a few times, and wipe away soap scum from shower door glass, tile grout, and the tub basin. Rinse and dry completely.

Tried-and-True Advice

“While I try to stick to natural, DIY cleaners in my household, when it comes to soap scum, I can’t deny it: nothing works quite like a Magic Eraser. With one of these nifty scrubbers, some water, and a helping of elbow grease, I’ve managed to remove even months-old soap scum buildup from my tub and shower walls. For the most severe soap scum cases, of course, you may need to call in additional cleaning solutions, but for more run-of-the-mill stuff it’s amazing what that little piece of Durafoam can do.”

—Chase Brush, Contributing Writer

Homemade Cleaners

Store-bought formulas aren’t the only solutions when considering how to clean soap scum in the bathroom. You may find that the best ways to remove soap scum are also some of the cheapest. Try these recipes and solutions for DIY soap scum removal that use materials you probably already have at home:

• Baking soda and vinegar. Pour a cup of baking soda into a small bowl and add enough white vinegar to make a paste. Once the mixture stops fizzing, use a sponge to apply it to your shower and tub, then let it set for about 15 minutes. Wipe the surfaces down again with a non-scratch sponge, rinse thoroughly with water, and dry with a clean towel.
• Vinegar and dish detergent. Another reliable cleaning mainstay, a soap-and-vinegar mix can also dissolve soap scum. Combine equal amounts of vinegar and water into a spray bottle, then add one tablespoon of dish detergent (or liquid dish soap). Spray the mixture directly onto the soap scum and allow it to sit for about 15 minutes. When you return, scrub the area with a soft-bristle scrub brush and rinse it with hot water. Dry thoroughly.
• Pumice stone. When cleaning a porcelain tub—as this method should not be used for acrylic tubs or showers—you can use a wet pumice stone to remove thick soap scum buildup. However, you’ll need to work carefully; applying too much pressure when scrubbing or using a dry stone can scratch glass doors or tile. To give it a try, wet both the pumice stone and the surface you’re working on. Then, very gently rub the wet stone over the soap scum. As soap scum transfers to the pumice stone, use a stiff-bristle brush to clean off the stone before continuing to scrub, repeating this process until the residue is gone.
• Dryer sheets. Similar to the Magic Eraser method for how to clean soap scum from tile, grout, and shower doors, you can also remove soap scum with dryer sheets. Although best known for their fresh scent, dryer sheets typically contain fabric softener and other chemicals that make short work of soap scum. It’s about as simple as using a Magic Eraser, too: Wet a dryer sheet with water (and grab more as needed), scrub problem areas, rinse thoroughly, and dry with a clean towel.

Preventing Soap Scum

For soap scum, as it is with most cleaning tasks, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. These ideas about how to prevent soap scum can help you manage gross buildup in the tub and shower by preventing it from forming in the first place.

• Use liquid soap instead of bar soap. The talc and fatty acids in bar soap is what causes soap scum. While plastic bottles are less environmentally friendly, a switch to liquid body wash or shower gel should result in a significant decrease in the filmy residue that you see in the bathtub.
• Keep your shower and tub dry. Squeegee and/or towel dry your shower and tub after every use. You’ll be wiping away a good portion of the residue left behind each time you bathe, minimizing the level of soap scum that builds up over time.
• Soften your water. Soap scum thrives on hard water. One way to thwart its development is to install a water softener, which will remove the minerals in your tap water that react with soap to make soap scum. If you’re not up for purchasing a water softener, consider adding Epsom salts to bathwater to soften it and keep soap scum under control. As a bonus, the Epsom salts may also soothe your sore muscles.
• Use a daily shower cleaner. Regular cleaning is the best way to prevent soap scum in the shower and bathtub, whether you use a store-bought spray or use one of the aforementioned DIY solutions. Apply the cleaner to high-use surfaces with a cloth or sponge every day that the shower is in use. For optimal results, combine this cleaning regimen with any (or all) of the above advice on how to prevent soap scum.

The post How to Remove Soap Scum From Tubs and Showers appeared first on Bob Vila.

Your home is the one place where you can feel calm and comfortable, but if you are sneezing and coughing every time you walk through your front door, it can quickly become more frustrating than ever. If this is the case, you might be dealing with house allergies. 

Millions of people suffer from symptoms caused by indoor allergens, according to the American Academy of Allergy Asthma & Immunology. This may include rhinitis symptoms like sneezing, runny nose, congestion, itchy throat, and watery eyes; asthma symptoms like coughing and wheezing; or hives and rashes. 

A number of household irritants could cause allergy symptoms, so it’s important to figure out exactly what is triggering these reactions. Besides removing the specific allergen from your house, using a reputable air purifier—like this highly rated option available at Amazon, the top pick in our guide to the best air purifiers—can help minimize the effects of some of the most common household allergens.

Mold

Mold growing in your house can produce airborne spores that trigger an allergic reaction, including a runny nose, nasal congestion, wheezing, itchy eyes or throat, coughing and sneezing, headaches, and a skin rash. Indoor mold typically grows in damp areas such as basements, bathrooms, kitchens, and anywhere water is found. 

Check for visual signs of mold and the musty or earthy odor typically accompanying mold. Be sure to test for mold if you aren’t sure of the indoor source. If you spot mold, wear a mask and try to get rid of it immediately with water, detergent, and 5 percent bleach. It is also a good idea to hire a professional to have it removed safely. 

Here are some ways to prevent mold from growing in your home:

• Repair and seal leaking pipes and dripping faucets.
• Use a dehumidifier in the basement and other damp areas. 
• Purchase a humidity monitor to keep an eye on humidity levels.
• Ensure adequate ventilation in all rooms.
• Use exhaust fans and air out your home by opening doors and windows.
• Install a certified filter in the central heating and air conditioning unit in your home.

Plants

Houseplants purify the air and are incredibly uplifting and beneficial to our well-being, but some produce pollen and spores that can cause allergic reactions. Therefore, it’s best for those who are susceptible to limit exposure to plants and flowers inside the home to avoid a runny nose, itchy eyes, and even asthma. Some people even get a rash from handling certain plants.

If you aren’t sure whether houseplants are causing your symptoms, try removing them for a few weeks and see if that helps. Avoid ferns, figs, orchids, palms, and chrysanthemums, as they are the worst plants for people with allergies. Also, stay away from plants with fuzzy leaves (like African violets) since they easily trap allergens in their foliage. 

Instead, choose plants with smooth leaves that you can wipe down or mist regularly to keep dust and pollen at a minimum. Peace lily, Chinese evergreen, Dracaena, and Mother-in-law’s tongue are known to be hypoallergenic and shouldn’t trigger allergic reactions. 

Dust

Microscopic arthropods might be lurking in your house, causing house allergies. These dust mites feed off of tiny flakes of shed human skin and thrive in warm, humid environments. They are often found in carpeting, bedding, draperies, and upholstered furniture. 

About 8 out of 10 people in the United States are exposed to dust mites at any given time, says the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, so dust mites could be the reason for your allergies. 

Here are some ways to prevent dust mites in your house:

• Keep surfaces in your home clean and uncluttered. 
• Vacuum weekly with a model that has a certified asthma and allergy filter.
• Place allergen-proof fabric covers or airtight zippered plastic covers over mattresses and pillows.
• Wash your bedding in hot water and dry in a hot dryer weekly.
• Reduce the amount of carpeting and rugs in your home.
• Use specialized filters on your central air conditioner.
• Keep humidity low by using a dehumidifier or air conditioning. 
• Replace drapes and blinds with roll-down shades or washable curtains.

Chemicals

Another common allergen found in homes stems from all the chemicals we use, such as cleaning supplies, air fresheners, bug spray, soaps, chlorine bleach, polishes, and more. Many of these products contain harmful or irritating chemicals that can trigger headaches, respiratory symptoms, and allergy symptoms like itchy and watery eyes.    

Try these tips to help keep chemicals to a minimum:

• When using any cleaning or household products, keep the room well ventilated by opening windows and doors.
• Avoid spraying any chemicals in the air inside your home. 
• Choose unscented laundry products.
• Use only unscented, nontoxic cleaners at home.
• Avoid products with ammonia, formaldehyde, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), sulfuric acid, fragrances, and flammable ingredients.
• Never use air fresheners. 
• Use DIY cleaners like vinegar and baking soda instead. 

Pests

Pests roaming throughout your house—such as cockroaches, rodents, and insects—could also be triggering your allergies and asthma. As it turns out, some people are allergic to the proteins found in animal saliva, skin, fur, urine, or droppings. You will be able to tell if you have rodents by their droppings near your food supply or if you hear scurrying in the walls. 

Fruit flies and stink bugs also can trigger allergies. Fruit flies search for food and take bacteria from rotted fruits or spoiled food with them. They can cause respiratory issues and red bumps on the skin from the diseases they carry. Finally, stink bugs produce an odorous chemical that can cause symptoms like a stuffy nose, runny nose, pink eye, or dermatitis.

Take these steps to eliminate pests in your home:

• Seal all areas where pests can enter the home, including crevices, wall cracks, and windows.
• Repair leaky faucets and pipes since cockroaches and other pests come inside for water. 
• Keep food stored in tightly sealed containers. 
• Vacuum and sweep the floor after meals.
• Keep lids on garbage containers. 
• Do not leave dirty dishes or pet bowls out.
• Wipe off kitchen surfaces and cupboards regularly.
• Remove clutter to reduce the number of hiding spots for pests.
• Use bait and traps or hire an exterminator to control the pests in your home.

The post Why Am I Suddenly Allergic to My House? appeared first on Bob Vila.

A built-in bookshelf can transform both the functionality and aesthetics of a room. Beyond offering a place to hold your books and keep them from piling up in a corner or on a table, built-in bookshelves can bring charm and style to your space. They also allow for creativity, allowing you to give purpose to corners, the walls surrounding a window or fireplace, stairwells, and other areas of the home that are often viewed as wasted, unusable space. The trick is deciding on the best design and layout for your space. Use the built-in bookshelf ideas below to help you find some inspiration for this next home improvement project.

1. Hidden Door Bookshelf

While doorways are often overlooked when it comes to storage and organization, creative built-in bookcase ideas don’t let these spaces go to waste. Instead, they transform a basic doorway into an attractive storage solution. With a Murphy door bookshelf, your doorways can pull double-duty. They’ll not only provide access between rooms in the home, but they’ll also offer a convenient and attractive solution for organizing books and displaying treasured items. 

2. Relaxation Nook

Whether you’re looking for a DIY bookcase idea or would rather hire a professional to construct one, consider making better use of the space around a bedroom, office, or family room window. Adding built-in bookcases on either side of the window, with a cozy bench connecting them, will instantly create a relaxation nook. Add all of your favorite books to the shelves, toss a blanket and some throw pillows on the bench, and you’ll be all set up to cuddle up and enjoy a wonderful story.

3. Wall-to-Wall Storage

Why not make your new bookshelf the focal point of your space? With wall-to-wall built-in book cabinets, you can do just that. Upper glass doors allow you to showcase memorabilia and other more attractive items, while solid lower cabinets offer hidden storage for items that aren’t as visually appealing. 

4. L-Shaped Corner Library

The corners of our rooms are among the most underutilized spaces in a home. L-shaped built-in bookshelves can help reverse this trend, converting a corner into one of the most organized and functional spaces in a room. With an L-shaped corner library, you can display artifacts and mementos, while still having ample room to store books, file boxes, bins, and more. 

5. Floating Shelves

Floating shelves are a built-in shelving option that can allow for greater flexibility. You can customize the design and layout based on the other elements in your space—placing the shelves underneath a television, above a couch, or behind the desk in the office. Installing floating shelves is also relatively simple if you’re up for a quick DIY project. You’ll just need a stud finder, a level, a drill, and a few anchors and screws to secure everything in place and support the weight of the books and other items you wish to keep on the shelves.

6. Modular Library

If you’re looking for some bookshelf plans you can make in a weekend, consider a modular library made from floating shelves. For this DIY built-in bookshelf, consider the available wall space, and then create modular boxes that you can hang to create a design that is as functional as it is attractive. Place a mix of books and decor items for an aesthetically pleasing finished product.

7. Branched-Out Storage

This tree-shaped built-in bookshelf design might be the ideal fit for your space if your goal is to make the shelf an integral element of your room’s decor. The branches of the “tree” function as the shelves to hold books. Some of these shelves are slanted, mimicking the twists and turns of real tree branches and adding to the overall appeal of the design.

8. Wall of Books

Those looking to embrace Cluttercore design and showcase precious items can consider installing a wall-to-wall built-in bookcase with open shelves. Sectioning these shelves into separate compartments will help you organize books, memorabilia, and other items, making it possible to draw attention to your favorite treasures.

9. Fireplace Surround

Direct attention to your fireplace by building some bookshelves on either side of it. The fireplace will stand out as the star of the room, while the built-in bookcases will provide additional storage and allow you to highlight other key decorative elements that make the space unique to you.

FAQ About Built-In Bookshelves

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Winter may not seem like the best season to start a home project, but it’s the perfect opportunity to transform parts of the home’s interior with serious upgrade potential. In the colder months, we’re stuck inside anyway, and without vacations, outdoor activities, and other warm-weather distractions, we can often accomplish more in a shorter amount of time.

“Winter is a great time to focus on indoor projects that improve comfort and functionality,” says Margaret Kemmeter, kitchen and bath designer at renovation contractor Sims. ”With the colder weather, outdoor projects usually take a back seat and make it easier for us to direct our energy and resources toward improving the interiors of the home.”

Let’s face it: You need something to do besides binge-watching the latest hot series on Netflix. Get those DIY juices flowing by working on one or more of these home projects you can—and maybe should—tackle during the winter.

Done-in-a-Day Updates

Some deeply satisfying home updates can be completed in a single afternoon, or even just an hour. If the project involves swapping out items like light fixtures or drawer pulls, make sure to take accurate measurements. It’s super frustrating and a big time delay to have to go back to the home improvement center or return an online order that doesn’t fit properly.

1. Make sure your smoke detectors are working. 

According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), in 2023 one house fire was reported to a fire department every 95 seconds. December is the peak month for house fires, which is why you should kick off these colder months by evaluating and upgrading your home’s safety features, such as smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors.

Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors should be tested monthly and replaced every 5 to 7 years. Pay attention to the expiration dates on your detectors, and when it’s time to replace them, upgrade to a newer model with better safety features. Consider swapping the old units out for a combination smoke detector/carbon monoxide detector, like the X-Sense, the Best Overall winner in our hands-on tested guide to the best smoke detectors.

2. Refresh your home’s lighting design or fixtures.

“Shorter days can leave your home feeling dark and dreary. Adding lighting enhancements can improve both functionality and mood,” says Swannell Thompson, a handyperson with Frontdoor, a service that connects homeowners with skilled tradespeople. Whether you swap out one light fixture, add layers of battery-powered or plug-in fixtures, or just update light bulbs, you can ward off those earlier sunsets with lighting that can improve illumination—and your spirits.

“You can upgrade to layered lighting, such as under-cabinet lights or dimmable fixtures that can instantly transform the mood of any space while also improving functionality,” says Kemmeter. Consider installing battery-powered strip lighting like this dimmable and self-adhesive LED strip light under cabinets or around your favorite wall art. To add a layer of light in the dining room or family room without wiring, try battery-powered sconces that work for up to 72 hours on one charge. 

Be sure to choose energy-efficient LED fixtures or bulbs in a color temperature that suits the mood or function of each room. For example, light bulbs with a color temperature under 3000K emit a softer, warmer light, while a color temperature greater than 5000K is crisp and helpful for reading, crafting, or other detailed hobbies. Bulbs with a color temperature between those two are well suited for kitchen and home office lighting. 

3. Beef up your home tech and security system.

With temperatures dipping low and skies bringing snow and sleet, winter is not ideal for installing tech features or security cameras outdoors. Instead, focus on enhancing your tech game indoors and start using your home’s virtual assistant for more than just ordering toilet paper or checking the weather forecast.

“You can also install or upgrade smart home systems like thermostats and lighting as well as security cameras, which improve the functionality and comfort of your home. Smart thermostats are great for sustaining optimal indoor temperatures and energy efficiency,” says Jennifer Rogers, designer at BKC Kitchen and Bath.

4. Upgrade your kitchen cabinet pulls.

If you spend your winter cooped up in the kitchen, cooking big meals for family and cookies for Santa, you may be getting bored with your tired-looking kitchen. Dial up the style—without spending a lot of time or money—by replacing outdated drawer pulls and knobs on your cabinets. Consider modern pulls in on-trend matte black, like this 10-pack from Amerdeco.

Pro tip: Carefully measure your current pulls before selecting new ones. Ordering pulls that fit the existing holes will save you from having to drill new holes and fill and finish the old ones. 

5. Swap out bathroom faucets. 

The mess and disruption of a kitchen or bathroom renovation may be more than you want to deal with in the winter. Instead, focus on something small that makes a big impact—for instance, the kitchen or bathroom faucet. Whether it’s woefully out of style or suffering from hard water, rough use, and the passage of time, that faucet may be ripe for replacement.

A new faucet not only refreshes the space but, if you choose well, can also help conserve water and save money. This project takes no more than an afternoon and is perfect for tackling in the colder months, especially before holiday guests arrive. (Our tested guide to the best bathroom faucets has terrific options for all types of sinks and budgets.)

6. Test your water. 

If you’ve never tested your water, winter is a good season to make it happen. “More than half of Americans have never tested their water. Hard water negatively impacts your home by causing mineral buildup or scaling in plumbing, fixtures, and water heaters, driving significant repair and premature replacement costs,” says Chris Counahan, president of home improvement company Leaf Home. 

You can do it yourself with a kit like the Safe Home Drinking Water Test Kit, which earned the top spot in our researched guide to water test kits. Simply send in your water sample, which is then tested at an EPA-certified lab.

Once you’ve received a complete analytical report of your water’s quality, you’ll know what to look for when shopping for the best whole-house water filter for your home. And you’ll be confidently ready for your spring gardening.

Pro tip: Testing is just the first step. To improve the quality of your water, Counahan says, “It is highly recommended to have a water expert evaluate and test your water to provide a customized water treatment system to meet your unique water needs.”

7. Declutter closets and storage areas.

Americans are good at collecting extra stuff. Almost half of us report that our homes are cluttered with stuff we don’t need anymore. One in seven can’t use at least one room in our home because it’s filled with rarely used items, and nearly two out of five admit they haven’t decluttered in more than a year. Before holiday gift-giving adds to the clutter, it’s time to send the extra stuff packing. 

“Winter is a great time to tackle indoor spaces that may have become disorganized over the year. Plus, decluttering can make your home feel more spacious and manageable,” says Thompson of Frontdoor. “Go through closets, garages, and attics to donate or toss unused items. Consider installing shelving or storage bins to create a more functional system for your belongings.”

8. Organize the laundry room.

Though it’s central to a household’s day-to-day functioning, the laundry room might not be at the top of the list when it comes to organization and style. Make use of a winter weekend when you’re stuck indoors to refresh and reorganize the laundry room. Add some floating shelves or cubbies and a hanging rod for clothes. Even just a thorough cleaning, an infusion of baskets, and some well-placed hooks can help turn it into a spot where you’ll actually enjoy spending time.

9. Check the HVAC system.

“Your heating system is working overtime in the winter. Regular maintenance can extend its life and ensure it operates efficiently,” says Thompson. This is a project that shouldn’t be delayed, as it can help improve indoor air quality and help you avoid costly and inconvenient repairs or replacements.

“A one-time HVAC maintenance call costs about $99 on average, but repairs and replacement costs vary greatly based on what’s needed,” says Courtney Klosterman, home insights expert at home insurance company Hippo. “In addition to minimizing wear and tear, regular checks and maintenance help your HVAC system operate smoothly and maintain good air circulation in your home,” says Klosterman. Replace the filters yourself or hire a pro to clean the ducts or inspect the furnace.

Klosterman adds: “Getting everything squared away before you need it can keep your home warm and energy-efficient in the winter.”

Done-in-a-Weekend Upgrades

Some home-improvement projects are more involved and may require a full weekend or more to complete. If you aren’t an experienced DIYer, or aren’t confident about your skills in any of the following areas, consider hiring a local remodeler to take on these projects.

10. Seal drafty windows and doors.

“Energy Star estimates that homeowners can save an average of 15 percent on heating and cooling costs by adding insulation and air-sealing their homes,” says Klosterman.

Since “cold drafts can sneak in through poorly sealed windows and doors, making your home colder and drive up heating costs, apply weatherstripping, caulk gaps, or install draft stoppers on doors,” advises Thompson. “Consider using plastic window insulation kits to add an extra layer of protection.” 

11. Update your kitchen countertop.

In the winter, prepping for parties and family gatherings keeps many of us in the kitchen more than usual. During those long hours in the kitchen, you may be more likely to notice damaged, stained, or drab countertops. Or maybe you’ve been craving a smooth, cool surface for rolling out dough for cookies or pies. Fortunately, winter is a fine time to treat yourself to a countertop upgrade. (Tip: Quartz and stone kitchen countertop materials are ideal for dough rolling.)

Beyond functionality, replacing the countertops can make a huge impact on your kitchen’s appearance, and the job doesn’t require a ton of kitchen downtime (though there may be some lag time between measuring for the new countertop and the actual install date). Note that a countertop swap-out is usually best handled by a pro, which means you’ll have more time to watch holiday movies with the family. 

12. Give your fireplace a facelift.

“If you have a fireplace, consider giving it a facelift,” says Rogers of BKC Kitchen and Bath. First, take a moment to sit in front of the fireplace and look it over with fresh eyes. Is it so dated that even Santa would call it retro? 

Maybe the fireplace would benefit from a more modern hue, such as Tricorn Black from Sherwin-Williams, or a sleek trendy mantel? Installing a French Victorian surround can transform an entire room from “1990s suburban fine” into a romantic retreat. While you’re at it, don’t forget to update the fireplace screen, too.

13. Paint the walls a fresh new color. 

Many homeowners like to take on interior painting projects during spring or summer, but winter may be a better time to change your wall colors. That same dry interior air that depletes the moisture in your skin during winter can help a fresh coat of paint dry more quickly. “Paint can refresh any room and enhance the overall aesthetic,” says Thompson of Frontdoor. “Whether it’s a full repaint or just refreshing trim, it’s an investment that brightens your space.”

Be sure to choose a no- or low-VOC paint and pick a mild day for painting so you feel more comfortable keeping windows open for proper ventilation. Even when using no-VOC paint, painting without adequate ventilation can cause headaches and respiratory issues. 

14. Replace worn-out carpeting.

“Winter weather can make carpets more damp and lead to mold,” says Klosterman. If your carpets have seen better days, the first few months of the year are prime for replacing threadbare, ripped, or bulging carpeting. You’ll probably even save money because carpeting prices are usually lower during the first quarter of the year. 

If replacement isn’t an option, try cleaning: “Proactively cleaning and protecting your carpet can help prevent weird home smells and an expensive replacement since carpets can cost $1 to $4 per square foot,” says Klosterman. “For a 160-square-foot living room (16 feet by 10 feet), you can expect to pay $640 to replace your carpet—not including the cost of installation.” 

Plus, after replacing—or even cleaning—the carpet, the room will feel cozier and the carpet may stand up better to the rest of the snowy season.

15. Insulate the attic and crawl space.

Protecting you from the cold is one of your house’s primary functions. One way of ensuring that your interior spaces stay as warm as possible, even in the coldest weather, is to reinsulate your attic or crawl space.

“A home update that is smart to do during the winter is to add or replace the insulation in your attic,” says Andrew Legge, CEO of Havelock Wool, manufacturers of high-performance wool insulation. “Most fibrous insulations are low-integrity fibers that break down over time. Adding more insulation will help it retain heat, promoting energy efficiency. Replacing older or damaged insulation will dramatically improve the benefits.”

When compared to other home improvements that just enhance one space, insulating the attic is a relatively easy project that can have a big impact on comfort in every room.

16. Upgrade kitchen cabinet fronts or interiors. 

“Another excellent winter project is upgrading cabinetry or adding custom storage solutions,” says Kemmeter of Sims. “Opt for pull-out shelves or drawer organizers in the kitchen to increase storage and keep the space tidy during the bustling holiday season.” 

Pro tip: Schedule kitchen updates for completion at least 2 weeks before a gathering, even if you think the project should take just a few hours. That way, if you need to pick up more supplies to finish or if something unexpected pops up, you won’t be stuck with a half-finished kitchen upgrade while you’re entertaining guests.

17. Put in a new kitchen backsplash.

The cold, dark days of winter make many of us crave colorful, warm spaces that distract us from the dreariness outside. A new kitchen backsplash is an excellent opportunity to amp up the color and playfulness indoors. This project packs a hefty visual punch and can be a productive activity for a bleak January weekend.

Pro tip: Consider using a tile adhesive mat to make the project a little bit easier. 

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