When you’re choosing fresh paint for your walls, after color, the next big decision is sheen. Light reflection on interior walls is an important part of the design and mood of a room. However, too much shine looks like wet paint, and a wall with too little shine can instead absorb light. Two middle-of-the-road options for paint finish—satin and semi-gloss—are quite popular for being neither too shiny nor too matte.

“Satin and semi-gloss each have their place in the home,” says Erika Woelfel, vice president of color and creative services at Behr. However, telling satin vs. semi-gloss apart can get somewhat tricky. Is semi-gloss shinier than satin? To answer, pay attention to the main ingredients: pigment, the powdery ingredient that gives paint its color; and resinous binder. The more resin a paint has, the shinier it is. That’s because it allows the paint to flow more and soaks up the powdery pigment well, making for a smooth consistency. 

Semi-gloss, one step under high-gloss in terms of sheen,  is shinier than satin because it has a higher percentage of resinous binder than pigment. Satin is shinier than eggshell and matte finishes for the same reason. Both semi-gloss and satin are available in traditional paint types including oil-based, latex, and low- or no-VOC (volatile organic compound) versions. However, the subtle differences in satin vs semi-gloss paint can make one a distinctly better fit for your project than another.

Satin Paint

Satin finish paint has a slight sheen, so it reflects light better than both eggshell and matte finish interior paints. But satin absorbs more light than semi-gloss paint, and thus is forgiving of pre-existing imperfections. So, with this in mind, what is satin paint used for? “A satin finish, like Behr Premium Plus Interior Satin Enamel, offers a soft, durable look that resists dirt—ideal for living rooms, hallways, and bedrooms,” says Woelfel. 

If you’ve got dings and dents in your walls, cabinets, or soon-to-be-painted dresser, the flatter nature of satin will look better over pocks, divots, and scrapes since it draws the light in and tricks the eye into seeing a more even surface. If you want to deflect attention away from faults and blemishes without spending hours sanding them away, satin is the way to go.

That said, satin paint such as Benjamin Moore Regal Select Interior Paint in the satin/pearl finish is durable and somewhat light-reflective, so it works in areas where semi-gloss is too shiny. “It is perfect for adding a subtle contrast against walls painted in a matte or eggshell finish,” says David Underwood, associate technical project manager at Benjamin Moore. 

Satin Paint Pros and Cons

When to Use Satin Paint

Use satin finish paint when you want to:

• Highlight a ceiling or other well-lit surface without creating too much glare
• Brighten up a hallway
• Cover living-area walls that have imperfections or require regular paint touch-ups
• Paint high-traffic areas

Semi-Gloss Paint

Semi-gloss paint’s higher percentage of resin compared to pigment results in a shinier, and therefore, more light-reflective finish than satin. When looking at the difference between gloss and semi-gloss paint on walls or trim, it’s the mirror-like finish of gloss that is a step up from the semi-gloss sheen. 

“A semi-gloss finish is more luminous and perfectly suited to highlight architectural details of your home and create dimension on millwork, trim, wainscoting, and doors,” says Underwood. If used on living-area walls, semi-gloss paints like Benjamin Moore Advance Interior Paint create too much of a glare and can make paint colors appear darker. Factor that in when you’re making a final decision about which paint finish to use. 

However, there are cases when semi-gloss is the best choice. “Semi-gloss, such as Behr Ultra Scuff Defense Interior Semi-Gloss Enamel, provides a higher sheen with added moisture-resistance, making it perfect for trim, doors, cabinets, and high-traffic spaces like kitchens and bathrooms,” says Woelfel.

Semi-Gloss Paint Pros and Cons

When to Use Semi-Gloss Paint

Use semi-gloss when you want to:

• Increase the light reflection in a room
• Ensure ease of cleanup in bathrooms or kids’ rooms
• Repaint your garage doors for shine and easy cleanup
• Highlight millwork such as banisters, chair rails, or architectural features in old houses
• Create a durable surface on high-touch areas like baseboards, interior doors, or kitchen cabinets
• Reduce mildew and mold in high-moisture areas like basements or laundry rooms

Differences Between Satin and Semi-Gloss Paint

Sheen

Semi-gloss has more sheen than satin because of the higher resin-to-pigment ratio. But how will you tell the difference when you’re looking at a wall? You’ve likely seen shiny baseboard paint  up against a more matte wall. That’s likely a semi-gloss finish because it’s the best paint for doors and trim when paired with satin. But if you’re looking at an existing paint job and wondering whether it’s satin or semi-gloss, try feeling it. Semi-gloss has a sort of plastic-like, sticky texture compared to the more matte satin finish, which feels much like the surface of an eggshell.

Maintenance 

“For a balance of durability and aesthetics, satin works well in most spaces, while semi-gloss delivers extra protection where frequent cleaning is needed,” says Underwood. The higher the gloss, the easier the cleanup of messes like fingerprints and smudges. For objects and areas that get a lot of use and therefore require frequent wipe-downs—bathrooms, kitchens, playrooms, and kids’ bedrooms, semi-gloss is often the wiser option. 

Because a semi-gloss painted surface is slicker, it’s more resistant to moisture and easier to go over with a damp cloth or special sprays designed for minor household disasters. While both are durable compared to eggshell or matte options, semi-gloss has a slight advantage thanks to the additional binders that give it both a higher sheen and more resistance to fading or grease stains.

Price

In general, the higher the gloss, the higher the price, but usually the difference is minor. “Both satin and semi-gloss finishes have a reflective quality and equivalent price point,” says Underwood. “The higher percentage of resinous binders in the semi-gloss can make it slightly more expensive than satin paints.” So, if you’re looking to save a little bit of money buying paint for the whole home interior, satin is the most budget-worthy option of the two that still offers a hint of sheen.

FAQs

The post Satin vs. Semi-Gloss Paint: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Bob Vila.

The cramped space behind the toilet is a difficult portion of the bathroom to maintain, posing a challenge when it comes time to dust and an even larger one when repainting. A toilet tank situated not quite flush against the wall leaves very little room to operate a brush or paint roller but just enough that it would be noticeable to leave the color unchanged while the rest of the room gets a refresh. Fortunately, DIY-inclined homeowners and renters have two easy options for how to paint behind a toilet, neither of which require moving the bulky ceramic out of the way.

• Option 1: Cover your toilet with a trash bag and line the floor with drop cloths so that you can work without fear of mess. This option is ideal when you are repainting your entire bathroom or the full wall where your toilet sits.
• Option 2: Enlist a specialty tool called the Paint Behind to slide into the narrow space behind a toilet and pad on paint. Use it together with Option 1 to ensure a complete and flawless paint job or alone as a “quick fix” to correct discoloration on the patch of wall directly behind the toilet.

Before you begin, make sure to select the right primer and paint. Bathrooms, of course, are exposed to a lot of moisture and humidity, so your paint choice should be designed to withstand the combination. Consider a paint with anti-microbial additives, like Benjamin Moore’s Aura Bath and Spa collection, or an interior paint with semi- or high-gloss finish—this sheen repels moistures better than matte paints. And don’t forget to start with a top-quality, moisture-resistant paint primer. The right primer will prevent peeling and water damage for years.

OPTION 1: Cover the toilet with a trash bag, then brush freely.

When painting the entire bathroom, prep the toilet with a drop cloth before you start but save the actual painting of the tight space behind your toilet for last—it requires the most detailed attention.

Step 1: Ventilate the bathroom.

Bathrooms are often small, enclosed spaces with poor air circulation. Materials like shower curtains and towels that retain moisture also keep them consistently humid. To boost bathroom ventilation and minimize paint drying time, remove the shower curtain, floor rug, bath, and hand towels. If your bathroom has windows, make sure they are open. Run the ventilation fan or plug in a small circulating fan.

To prevent paint fumes inhalation, you may also wish you wear a painter’s mask.

Step 2: Clean and prepare the area behind the toilet.

Clean the walls, floor, wall, and toilet surfaces with a cellulose sponge dipped in a mixture of dish soap and water. This will help remove dust and dust and hair build-up. Dry the area thoroughly with terry cloths.

Next, cover the floor around the toilet with a tarp or plastic sheet secured with painter’s tape.

Then, cover the toilet with an extra-large plastic garbage bag. (Tip: You’ll find contractor clean-up bags at your local home improvement store in sizes of up to 50 gallons, and these resist accidental tearing.) Tape the bag in place around the toilet’s base. Take care to wrap any piping or trim that might be exposed with painter’s tape.

Tried-and-True Advice

“There’s no way to paint behind a toilet with it being a bit awkward. Removing the toilet is an option, but that adds a series of steps to the process that are difficult and best avoided unless you have plumbing skills. I find that removing the lid and covering the toilet with a trash bag is efficient, and it allows for full paint coverage when using narrow, spongy brushes. Look for long handle options to make the process easier.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 3: Prime and paint the wall.

Start with one to two coats of primer to ensure the best paint adhesion. To reach behind the toilet and around pipes, you’ll want to do the following:

• Use a narrow paint roller to apply paint primer around the shape of the toilet, cutting in as best you can. Roll with the metal frame on the outside in order to get as close to the covered toilet tank as possible.
• Switch to a 3-inch-wide foam brush to paint behind the toilet. Carefully load one side of the foam brush with paint primer and, when you reach behind the toilet, keep the paint-covered side in direct contact with the wall. Apply in small strokes.
• Use a 1-inch-wide angled brush for detail work around the pipes.

Let the primer dry thoroughly before applying paint. (The paint’s drying time will depend on the temperature and humidity level in your bathroom, as well as the paint primer you choose; refer to the can for an estimated dry time between coats and before paint.)

After priming, clean your paint pan before pouring fresh paint into it. To apply your paint, follow the same tips. After the first coat, wait the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer (longer, if your bathroom is not well ventilated) so that the wall is completely dry before applying a top coat.

OPTION 2: Purchase a special painting tool to access the area behind a toilet tank.

Painting the wall behind the toilet tank can be less of a pain when you use a tool designed to fit the narrow gap between the toilet tank and wall. Sure, it may be that you only have a paint job like this once every five to 10 years (maybe more, if you are a renter who appreciates a fresh coat of paint when you move in and then often needs to repaint before you move out). There’s an innovative painting tool you can buy online to access hard-to-reach areas called the Paint Behind. It’s a flat, extendable-to-12-inches paint brush that can reach behind toilets, pipes, radiators, and other tight spots.

Step 1: Ventilate the bathroom, then prep for painting.

Proceed in establishing good bathroom ventilation and a clean slate for best adhesion, just as you would in Steps 1 and 2 of Option 1.

Clean the wall behind the toilet with a cellulose sponge dipped in a mixture of dish soap and water (you might also try dipping a microfiber cloth in the cleaning solution and wrapping it around the Paint Behind, and extending the tool to clean behind the tank). While the wall air dries, clean the stick and let it dry completely before painting.

Cover the bathroom floor with a drop cloth held in place with painter’s tape, but skip bagging the toilet. Keep a damp paper towel nearby to wipe up any marks.

Step 2: Dip the tool into primer, and glide it across the wall. Repeat the process with coats of paint.

Dip the Paint Behind’s applicator pad into the paint tray to get primer on pad. Then, glide the paint wand the wall behind the toilet, pressing firmly to make sure the entire paint-saturated surface meets the wall.

Apply two coats of primer this way, leaving time between them as recommended by the paint manufacturer. Then, clean the Paint Behind with water and let it dry. Repeat the process with two coats of paint using the Paint Behind.

The post How to Paint Behind a Toilet appeared first on Bob Vila.

Metal furniture and home decor items can last a long time, but they start to lose their appeal when their original paint job is looking less than spectacular. The good news is that it’s possible to strip the paint from metal so you can apply a new coat of paint in your current color scheme. 

While there are a range of shapes and sizes for household metal objects—from railings to side tables—there are several methods that can work to remove paint from them. Here are a few of the most effective ways of stripping paint from metal so it’s ready to be refreshed. 

Project Overview

Working Time: 2+ hours
Total Time: 2+ hours
Skill Level: Beginner
Estimated Cost: $10 to $50

Before You Begin

Painted metal can range from cabinet hardware to a metal door, so preparing for the project will depend on the painted metal object. No matter the size, select an area that is well-ventilated. It’s just as important to protect yourself, so don your rubber gloves, safety glasses, long-sleeved shirt, shoes, and pants to cover your skin completely. Then, avoid inhalation of fumes from the chemicals by opening all windows and wearing a respirator.

Before you remove metal paint, prepare the work area by covering the work surface and surrounding ground with drop cloths. If you want to save money on supplies, recycled newspapers or unfolded cardboard boxes can substitute as surface protection against the chemical stripper you’ll be using—just make sure not to leave any gaps between pieces. Paint dust and flecks can be tough to chase around later. 

7 Ways to Remove Paint From Metal

When considering which method to use to remove paint from your metal object, take note of the shape and size of the item. Some methods below are better suited for flat surfaces and others are best suited for small objects. No matter which you choose, make sure to protect your skin, eyes, and surrounding area from paint flecks and dust that could contain lead. 

1. Paint Scraper

Scraping paint from metal with a paint scraper can be a useful method for removing flaking paint from flat metal surfaces. Be mindful that softer metals may scratch more easily, so it’s important to use a plastic scraper and a lighter touch when using this method. It’s likely that you won’t be able to remove all of the paint with just a scraper, so another method may need to be used to help finish the job. 

SUPPLIES

Drop cloth
Paint scraper
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Cloth

1. Lay out the drop cloth and don protective gloves, eye protection, and mask. 
2. Take the paint scraper at an acute angle to the surface and push the scraping edge along the surface.
3. Repeat the scraping motion until all paint is removed. 
4. Wipe the surface clean with a cloth. 

2. Boiling Water

While boiling water can be a helpful way to loosen paint from metal surfaces, it’s another paint remover for metal method that isn’t practical for larger surfaces. Make sure to always wear heat-resistant gloves when removing metal from boiling water. 

SUPPLIES

Pot
Heat-resistant gloves
Paint scraper
Cloth

1. Put on heat-resistant gloves and boil water in the pot. 
2. Either pour boiling water over the object or submerge it in the boiling water.
3. After the paint begins to bubble on the metal surface, use a scraper to remove the paint. 
4. Wipe the surface of the object with a clean cloth.

Tried-and-True Advice

“In my experience, paint removal is sometimes the easiest part of the job. What nobody talks about is what to do with or how to manage the paint that comes off.

Take pressure washing, for example. Using an oscillating “turbo” type head, the water will blast into all kinds of nooks and crannies on a wrought iron railing or old table base and it’ll burst any loose paint off in seconds. And what happens next? The paint is dispersed all over everywhere for 10-15 feet around. It’ll pepper the driveway, the garage wall, the side of the house, whatever. It can be cleaned off, but now you have a second job.

Same with an angle grinder and flapper wheel. At 10,000-11,000-rpm for a 4 1/2-inch tool. That paint is a-flyin’. You’ll need a face shield at a minimum along with gloves, long sleeves and hearing protection (these are my favorite). The machine will murdilize the paint, turning it into a million pepper-sized pieces that’ll be hurled everywhere, including partially on you.

Chemical strippers are a challenge of a different sort. Paint is a solid before paint strippers are applied (this stuff is caustic—you’ll need glove and eye protection). Yes, strippers remove the paint, but before doing so, liquefy it, turning into a slurry-like sludge that gets everywhere. And, if you’re using it to remove many coats of paint, you may need multiple applications as it eats through however many layers it can eat through, then stops, leaving you with more paint to remove.

So, before stripping any finishes, figure out the reaction to the action first and decide which path is best for you, because you might just decide to find an old school dip-and-strip and let them handle it.”

—Mark Clement, Contributing Writer

3. Baking Soda or Vinegar

One way to ease paint from a metal surface is to use baking soda with boiling water. If you don’t have baking soda, white vinegar can be used in its place. While it’s an effective method for removing paint, it’s a process that’s best for smaller pieces. 

SUPPLIES

1. Add ¼ cup of baking soda to 1 quart of water in a disposable pot.
2. Turn on the burner and bring the mixture to a boil.
3. Place the painted metal object in the boiling water.
4. After about 10 to 15 minutes, the paint will likely start to lift from the surface.
5. Turn off the heat.
6. Put on heat-resistant gloves and remove the object from the pot.
7. With a stiff brush or scraper remove any remaining paint. 
8. Wipe the surface of the object with a clean cloth.

4. Heat Gun

Essentially, a heat gun will liquefy the paint on the surface enough so that it will be easier to scrape away with a paint scraper. Always start with the lowest setting and wear heat-resistant gloves. 

SUPPLIES

Heat-resistant gloves
Eye protection
Heat gun
Wire brush
Cloth

1. While wearing heat-resistant gloves and eye protection, turn on the heat gun to its lowest setting. 
2. Move the heat gun slowly across the surface. 
3. When the paint begins to crack and melt off the metal, use a wire brush or a paint scraper to remove the paint. 
4. Wait for the surface to cool and then wipe the metal surface with a clean cloth.

5. Drill

Sturdy and complicated surfaces like metal railings may require the flexibility offered by a drill with a wire wheel attachment to successfully remove paint. Wire wheels can be flat or brush-shaped, which offers the ability to attack both flat and spindly surfaces.

SUPPLIES

Drill
Wire wheel
Eye protection
Heat gun
Wire brush
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Cloth

1. Put on eye protection, mask, and gloves. 
2. Attach the wire wheel to the drill.
3. Turn on the drill at a low speed.
4. Apply the wire wheel to the surface of the painted metal, and work the wheel over the surface to remove the paint.
5. Wipe the debris off the surface with a cloth. 

6. Angle Grinder

An angle grinder in combination with a flap disc (flapper wheel) can be a good choice if you know the paint is not lead-based and there is a lot of paint to remove from the metal surface. Grinders spin up to 10,000 rpm, so be careful while using one and wear a face shield and gloves to protect your eyes and skin from flecks. 

SUPPLIES

Angler grinder
Flap disc (flapper wheel)
Eye protection
Heat gun
Wire brush
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Cloth

1. Put on eye protection, mask, and gloves. 
2. Attach the flap disc to the angle grinder. 
3. Turn on the angle grinder and hold with two hands.
4. Starting with a fine grit, apply the flap disc to the painted surface. Do not force the tool by pressing too hard. 
5. Increase the grit of the disc until the paint is gone. 

7. Paint Stripper

A seemingly easy way to remove paint is with a paint stripper. Older versions are notoriously odorous and not environmentally friendly. However, there are newer versions that are low-odor and made from more organic materials. 

SUPPLIES

Drop cloth
Paint-stripping gel
Disposable paint brushes
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Nylon brush
Mineral spirits

1. Pour a small amount of the stripper into a glass jar or metal can. Using a disposable paint brush, apply the chemical paint stripper to the metal, and let it set according to the instructions on your commercial stripper. As it sets, you should start to see the paint bubble up from the surface of the metal.
2. Wearing protective gear, take a paint scraper, and chip off the bubbled paint from all the flat surfaces of the metal. For crevices and harder-to-reach areas, switch to a scrubbing pad or nylon brush (you can use the one from Step 2, but first give it a good wash and trim the bristles short!) and continue to chip away. Reapply stripper and scrape or brush away again as needed until the whole piece is paint-free.
3. Next, dampen a rag with mineral spirits and wipe the surface down. This will remove any leftover flakes of lifted paint and the bulk of the remaining chemical residue. 
4. Thoroughly rinse off the metal with water to completely remove all traces of the stripper, then wipe it down using a fresh, dry rag. 

Tips for Removing Paint From Metal

Removing paint from metal surfaces can sometimes be an easy project; in other instances, it can be time-consuming and difficult. Make sure to take time to adequately set up the project area and gather everything you need, including personal protective equipment, before starting. Here are some more tips:

• Set up the project in a well-ventilated area.
• Protect the area with a drop cloth to collect the paint chips and dust.
• Always wear a face mask and gloves when removing paint from metal. 
• Use a plastic paint scraper on softer metal surfaces to prevent scratching. 
• You may need to use a combination of methods to remove all paint from a metal surface.
• Always try the easiest method before moving on to power tools and chemical stripping. 

Final Thoughts

Learning how to remove paint from metal surfaces will help save money and resources as you can refresh and reuse those household items. Depending on the size and shape of the metal object, one method may be better suited than another. Also, you may need to try a few methods before all of the paint is gone. If removing paint from a metal item is only the first step in a bigger upcycling project, you may want to learn more about the best paints for metal.

About the Author

Theresa Clement is a handy designer who has been improving homes for more than 20 years. A certified color expert, she is known for solving design dilemmas with paint, and has painted everything from metal and wood furniture to plastic hopper balls and gum balls to complete a look for a client. Starting with her work at architecture firms, she has authored DIY books; writes for Architect magazine, JLC magazine, and Remodeling magazine; and worked as a design producer on makeover shows. She now works with her carpenter husband on private homes and their home improvement brand, MyFixitUpLife. 

FAQs

The post How to Remove Paint From Metal appeared first on Bob Vila.

One of the most common ways to update the interior of a home is with fresh painted walls and trim. While it can be easier to paint baseboards when the flooring is a hard surface like tile or wood, avoiding painting baseboards with carpet can cause worn trim to stick out and detract from your makeover efforts.

Some may say that the most surefire method for painting baseboards in a carpeted room is to remove the baseboards entirely, paint them in a separate space, then reinstall the baseboards once the paint has dried. However, if you aren’t careful, you can damage the baseboards during removal or reinstallation, making this a risky and time-consuming endeavor. 

Instead, many DIYers touch up baseboard trim and paint the baseboards in place, with great attention and care required to avoid getting paint on the carpet. If you are repainting baseboards in a carpeted room and don’t want to remove the baseboards, follow the steps in this guide to learn how to paint baseboards with carpet.

Before You Begin

There are a few necessary steps you need to take before painting floor molding—baseboards and shoe molding—in order to prepare the area and make sure that you have everything you need on hand to get the ideal baseboard paint finish. First, you will need to head to a local home improvement store to purchase paint and baseboard painting tools, including a paint brush, putty knife, sandpaper, and painter’s tape. It’s also a good idea to find heat-resistant paint for baseboard heaters if the home has these heating appliances. 

Next, it’s important to vacuum the floor before painting baseboards with carpet to get rid of any hair, fluff, or other debris that could mess up the paint job. You will also want to open the windows and doors, as well as setting up a fan to help ventilate the space, especially if you are using paint that is high in volatile organic chemicals (VOCs).

While you can paint baseboards without removing the carpet, you can also try to peel back the carpet and roll it up and out of the way while you work. Since carpet is secured next to the wall with a tack strip, you may be able to lift the carpet off the tack strip to peel it back. However, carpet is often attached to the tack strips under the baseboards, which can make this process difficult. It’s even more difficult to reinstall the carpet when you are done, so this may not be a feasible option for many DIYers based on skill level.  

Step 1: Sand and make any necessary repairs to the baseboards.

Some baseboard painting hacks may skip the sanding and repair process. If the baseboards are in poor condition, touch up any minor damages and sand down any old or peeling paint to prepare the baseboards for a new coat. Otherwise, the finished product will just look like you tried to cover up past mistakes. 

Use 100- to 180-grit sandpaper to sand down the surface of the baseboards using even pressure and back-and-forth strokes. Apply caulk to any small holes or cracks in the baseboards to make simple repairs and then run a fresh bead of caulk along the edge of the baseboard where it meets the wall to fill in any gaps. Just keep in mind that if there is any severe damage, it’s best to replace the damaged baseboard entirely. 

Step 2: Apply painter’s tape and lay down a drop cloth.

The easiest way to paint baseboards in a carpeted room without accidentally painting the carpet is to use painter’s tape to create a protective coating over the carpet nearest the walls. You should also lay down a plastic drop cloth over the rest of the room to avoid dripping paint on exposed carpeting. 

It also helps to use a putty knife to press the tape down and under the baseboards for full protection. Since there is usually a decently sized gap between the carpet and baseboard, this process should be relatively easy. If you aren’t confident in just one layer of painter’s tape, apply a second layer to ensure the paint doesn’t seep through. 

Step 3: Prep the paint brush.

Once the room is ready to go, you can load up the paint brush with paint. It’s recommended to invest in a paint edger brush for superior control while painting. Cover about half of the bristles when dipping the brush into the paint, then use the sides of the paint can or paint tray to wipe off any dripping paint from your brush. Follow this process each time you dip the brush into the paint to reduce the risk of dripping paint on the floor or walls. 

Step 4: Paint the baseboards.

Ultimately, it’s up to you whether to paint the walls or trim first, but once you have started on the baseboards it’s recommended to continue until you are done. Use the loaded-up paint brush to paint along the length of the baseboard either from left to right or from right to left, depending on your personal preference. Just make sure to stick to painting in one direction after you make your choice to achieve the best results. 

Apply one coat, then wait for it to dry before applying another coat, if necessary. Usually two coats of paint is more than enough for the baseboards, so after the paint has dried, you can remove the tape and the drop cloth to complete the project. 

Final Thoughts

Whether you are painting the entire room, updating the baseboards and trim, or just touching up areas around the room, it’s important to protect the floor. While you may be able to wipe up a few drips of paint from hardwood, spilling paint onto carpet creates a significant problem that is difficult to undo without professional cleaning or replacing the carpet entirely. 

With this in mind, when you are painting baseboards in a carpeted room, make sure to take the time to lay down protection and apply painter’s tape under the baseboards to create a secure barrier. Not only will this keep the carpet in good condition, it will also help speed up the painting process, since you can work faster when you don’t have to worry about accidentally painting the carpet.

The post This Is the Easiest Way to Paint Baseboards With Carpet  appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you’ve ever tried to remove paint from brick, you know that it can be a painstaking process. Depending on the scope of the job, it might take you several hours or several days to complete the work. Because of the time and effort involved, many homeowners are unable or unwilling to commit their schedules to the project and choose instead to hire professionals, or not to undertake the project at all.

If you’re dealing with only a modest expanse of brick, or if you relish a challenge, there’s good news: Paint-stripping products have improved over the years, making the work friendlier to your health and to the brick itself. These new, safer formulations are the way to go. Many pros and DIYers recommend Citri-Strip. SmartStrip has its devotees, too. None are cheap, but all are comparably effective.

You may be tempted to try a short cut, possibly sandblasting or powerwashing the paint. This may do more harm than good, and leave the building material in a vulnerable condition. Many caustic, chemical-based paint-removal solutions compromise brick in a similar way. If you remove paint from brick using any of these potentially damaging methods, you may end up with a problem that’s much more serious than paint.

Tried-and-True Advice

“Before you start, I’d give serious thought to answering, ‘Just because I can do this project, should I do this project?’ The likelihood you can get all the paint off is near zero. The approaches to stripping paint from brick, heat or chemicals, re-liquefy the paint, turning it into a sloppy slurry that is hard to manage.

First, you could try a heat gun brick-by-brick. Start on low and heat up the paint. It’ll bubble on the surface of the brick like cheese melting, and that’s your signal to scrape the paint from the brick. I’d use a 1-inch Hyde putty knife for this. As you go, adjust the heat gun to match your site conditions. For example, there may be multiple coats of paint that require more heat. That said, if there is lead paint, heat is a no-go because re-liquefying that paint can cause noxious fumes. Also, brick can fracture if it gets too hot.

Second, you can try chemicals. The chemicals also heat up the paint and render it a slop. Plus there is the additional gel of the actual chemical to deal with. It’s literally a hot mess.”

—Mark Clement, Contributing Writer

If you’re dealing with old brick, it’s critical to not to clean the brick in a way that does lasting harm. Today, the best solutions are gel or paste compounds, followed by fabric-based peeling strips. The paint stripper triggers a chemical reaction that causes the paint to soften and adhere to the fabric. In the final step, the fabric strips are peeled away, taking the paint with them in the process and exposing the natural brick. Know what you’re getting into, though. The right paint stripper can do much of the work for you, but most situations call for a great deal of further scrubbing and/or scraping by hand.

How to Remove Paint From Brick

Step 1: Test the paint stripper.

Before applying a stripping agent to painted brick, test the stripper on an inconspicuous part of the installation. You may find that the stripper you’ve chosen does not work as well as expected, or you may discover the brick was painted to conceal its poor condition. Another good reason to start with a test: Doing so gives you a sense of how much effort the job is going to take. You may still opt to hire a pro, or you may decide you can put up with the paint.

Step 2: Protect yourself and your work area.

Stripping paint from brick is a messy job. Minimize cleanup by setting up your work area in a thoughtful way. First, lay down a series of drop cloths or some thick plastic sheeting to catch the peeling and flaking paint that will fall away from the brick. Don’t forget to tape the drop cloth or plastic to the bottom edge of the brick. If you don’t want to disturb the finish of nearby painted areas—the adjacent wood trim, perhaps—take the time to cover it up completely with painter’s tape.

Don the protective gear recommended by the manufacturer of the paint stripper you’ve chosen.

Step 3: Apply the paint stripper.

Before applying the gel or paste, start out by scraping away any paint that’s already loose. Next, using a trowel or a specialized tool provided by the paint stripper manufacturer, apply the compound to the brick. Be thorough, making sure to push the gel or paste into all the little crevices in the brick and mortar. Layer by layer, build the stripper up to the thickness recommended by the manufacturer.

Step 4: Position the peeling strips.

With the compound in place, start positioning the peeling strips. Typically made of fabric, these strips should be pressed and held against the stripper until firmly attached. Overlap the strips so that no brick remains visible. Once the strips have been applied, let them set for the period of time stipulated by the manufacturer. In many cases, particularly when multiple paint layers are involved, it takes a full 24 hours for the compound to cure and really work its magic.

Step 5: Remove the strips.

Once sufficient time has passed, return to the work area and begin lifting off the strips. If necessary, use the trowel to gain purchase behind any sluggish strips. Peel the strips in a slow and deliberate fashion; don’t rip them. As you peel, the paint beneath should come off too. Wherever the strips leave behind either compound or paint, use the trowel to flake off as much residue as possible. If the trowel doesn’t cut it, scrub with a stiff-bristled brush and rinse with water. If it wasn’t already clear, now it is: Removing paint from brick is a labor-intensive, if not grueling, project.

Dispose of the used strips according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For some products, the chemical reaction stops on its own, while for others it stops only after the addition of a neutralizing chemical. Also important: Do not attempt to remove paint from brick if, within a month or so, there’s any chance that the temperature is going to fall below freezing. If the brick doesn’t dry completely before the frost, it will be especially likely to succumb to damage.

The post How to Remove Paint From Brick appeared first on Bob Vila.

Whether you’re painting the living room or a patio table, applying a prep coat of primer to the surface can improve adherence, prevent peeling, and reduce the number of coats needed to finish the job. While all primers contain more resins and less pigment than paint, formulas vary from product to product. We tested some of the most popular options to find out which primer works best for different situations. Our number one pick is Rust-Oleum’s Zinsser Bulls Eye with its low odor and ability to work on multiple surfaces.

The right primer for your project depends on the environment you’ll be working in, the surface you’ll be painting, and your preferences for the time frame of the job and its final look. Read on to find out what makes a quality paint primer and why the below options rank as our top favorites among the best paint primers we tested.

1. BEST OVERALL: Rust-Oleum Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Water-Base Primer
2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Kilz Original Interior Primer
3. BEST ALL-PURPOSE: Kilz 2 All-Purpose Interior/Exterior Primer
4. BEST FOR METAL: Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer
5. BEST FOR GLOSSY SURFACES: Kilz Adhesion Interior/Exterior Primer
6. BEST FOR ODOR BLOCKING: Kilz Restoration Interior Primer
7. BEST FOR EXTERIOR: Kilz 3 Premium Interior/Exterior Primer
8. BEST FOR INTERIOR WALLS: Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint Interior Acrylic Latex

Product Comparison

Our Top Picks

We spent hours narrowing the paint primer market and testing the top-rated products. One or more of these recommendations for the best paint primer may suit your specific needs.

Best Overall

Rust-Oleum Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Water-Base Primer

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What We Like

• Low-VOC and low-odor formula
• Mold- and mildew-resistant
• Works on multiple surface types

What We Don’t Like

• Thin viscosity; second coat may be required for proper coverage

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water-based acrylic

Rust-Oleum is well known for its protective paints and coatings. Its Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 water-base primer is an all-purpose primer-sealer that sticks to various surfaces without sanding and works with any top coat. The brand is regarded as one of the top producers of rust-preventive paints.

The primer is low odor, low in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and provides excellent coverage on interior and exterior surfaces. It’s made from water-based acrylic and is designed to resist blistering, peeling, and mold and mildew growth. The primer is tintable and available in white or gray. It’s also available in spray-paint form.

We tested this primer on multiple surfaces, including drywall, wood, metal, and plastic. It readily stuck to all of those surfaces and provided a textured finished surface that easily held onto a top coat of paint. The primer did not completely block the water stain on drywall, but we expected that—most white primers do not. We thought the paint was thin and needed two coats on all surfaces to ensure an even, smooth top coat. Overall, we liked this primer’s versatility of use on multiple surfaces, making it our top choice.

Get the Rust-Oleum Zinsser paint primer at Amazon or Ace Hardware.

Best Bang for the Buck

Kilz Original Interior Primer

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What We Like

• Effectively blocks stains and odors
• Applies smoothly and evenly
• Lower-VOC formula

What We Don’t Like

• Strong odor

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Interior
• Recoat time: 2 hours or less
• Base material: Oil

Kilz is a trusted paint brand, especially for primers. Kilz Original interior primer is the company’s flagship primer designed to block most heavy interior stains on wood, drywall, plaster, paneling, wallpaper, masonry, brick, and painted metal. It also works on properly prepared glossy surfaces.

The primer is oil-based but can be used as a base coat for latex and oil paints. Kilz is our go-to primer for tough stains in our household. Previously, we had only used the spray-can version but found that the can version works just as well. We tested the primer on water stains on our drywall and as a base coat on various materials, including wood, brick, and metal. The primer adhered well to porous surfaces, but we did need to sand the metal before priming.

The white primer paint did a decent job blocking light-colored stains. However, in our experience with trying to hide stubborn stains on drywall, the primer works best at hiding stains when tinted gray.

Although it is available in a lower-VOC formula, it is not low VOC and the odor was strong. We recommend using a respirator or working in a well-ventilated area when using this primer. Overall, Kilz Original is a solid performer, and we highly recommend it for any ventilated interior primer application.

Get the Kilz Original paint primer at Ace Hardware.

Best All-Purpose

Kilz 2 All-Purpose Interior/Exterior Primer

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What We Like

• Minimal odor
• Mildew-resistant finish
• Easy soap-and-water cleanup
• Low-VOC formula

What We Don’t Like

• Only blocks light to medium stains

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water

Kilz 2 all-purpose interior/exterior primer is a general-purpose primer well suited for use on various DIY projects. This water-based primer has a drastically lower VOC content than the Original Kilz Primer, and it works under or over water-based or oil-based paints. It blocks light to medium stains and mild odors, and it leaves a mildew-resistant finish.

Kilz 2 all-purpose primer works well for general-purpose priming and sealing needs. In testing, it left a smooth base coat on drywall and bare wood. It did a moderate job blocking dark stains on walls, but it effectively blocked lighter stains like pencil marks, minor scuffs, and markers. We recommend using Kilz 2 for priming old walls before repainting or for any exterior surface as a base coat for exterior paint. It’s also handy to use a primer for craft painting projects.

Get the Kilz 2 paint primer at Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot. 

Best for Metal

Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer

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What We Like

• Prevents rust from growing in some areas
• Suitable for both indoor and outdoor use
• Weather- and corrosion-resistant

What We Don’t Like

• Metal surfaces should be sanded beforehand

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 24 hours
• Base material: Oil

Rust-Oleum Clean Metal primer is formulated to cover lightly rusted metals as well as bare and previously painted metals. It’s weather- and corrosion-resistant and bonds tightly to exterior/interior surfaces like wood, metal, concrete, and masonry.

This primer is designed primarily for use on metal, but it works well on other surfaces. It did a good job blocking rust stains on a metal bench we refinished, and it provided a smooth surface for a top coat. The only real drawback of this primer was that the smooth surfaces required prep work before use—smooth, hard, or glossy finishes need sanding for the primer to adhere. However, after applying onto sanded metal, it did form a durable finish, and the top coat went on beautifully.

Get the Rust-Oleum metal paint primer at Amazon, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Best for Glossy Surfaces

Kilz Adhesion Interior/Exterior Primer

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What We Like

• Bonds to glossy surfaces without sanding
• Can be used on products containing xylene or other solvents
• Easy soap-and-water cleanup after use

What We Don’t Like

• Not for wet floors or horizontal surfaces

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water

Kilz Adhesion interior/exterior primer is formulated to bond to various tough-to-paint surfaces such as PVC, vinyl, glass, tile, and glazed brick. The water-based primer offers the same stain- and odor-blocking properties as the other Kilz primers. Unlike the other primers in the Kilz line, Adhesion does not require sanding a glossy surface before primer application.

Since this primer is virtually identical in its stain and odor properties to the others in the Kilz lines, we primarily tested its ability to stick to slick surfaces. We applied the primer to plastic, metals, and glazed ceramic. We did not sand the surface before application. It did adhere to the surfaces pretty well, but we did find that applying the primer in thin, multiple layers produced better results. Although it took at least two coats, we prefer to paint two coats rather than sanding the entire surface first.

Get the Kilz Adhesion paint primer at Amazon.

Best for Odor Blocking

Kilz Restoration Interior Primer

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What We Like

• Minimal odor and low-VOC formula
• Easy soap-and-water cleanup
• Provides a smooth finish

What We Don’t Like

• Does not block or cover heavy or prominent stains

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Interior
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water

Water, mold, and rust stains are tough to cover, but odors are even harder to conceal. Smoke, pet urine, and food odors often require using an oil-based or shellac-based primer to seal them into the surface before painting. However, Kilz Restoration interior primer offers the same performance as oil-based primers but with the easy cleanup convenience of water-based paint.

Like the other primers offered by Kilz, this primer did an adequate job of covering most light to medium stains. However, Kilz Restoration shines as an odor blocker. We tested this primer drywall in a room where smokers previously resided. The primer went on smoothly and sealed in the odor. Once the top coat was applied, there was no hint of the smell. It did a moderate job concealing old water stains, but we expected that.

Since this primer is mainly formulated for odor blocking, we suggest only using this primer for that purpose. Kilz Original primer is a better stain blocker.

Get the Kilz Restoration paint primer at Amazon, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Best for Exterior

Kilz 3 Premium Interior/Exterior Primer

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What We Like

• Blocks most medium to heavy stains
• No-VOC formula
• Great in moisture-prone areas

What We Don’t Like

• Not meant for applying to glossy surfaces

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Latex

Kilz 3 Premium interior/exterior primer is formulated to minimize problems caused by color changes, minor stains, surface textures, and porosity differences. This primer offers excellent adhesion, a mildew-resistant coating, and seals interior and exterior surfaces for a uniform finish.

In testing, we found that this primer did an excellent job sealing new wood framing on our covered deck. It left an ultrasmooth finish, and the top coat went on smoothly. The primed and painted wood has been through a few rainstorms and high humidity conditions for a few weeks, and the surface still looks amazing.

As a stain blocker, it did a decent job covering up an older painted surface with minor mold and dirt discoloration. The only con we found with this primer was that it’s not made to adhere to glossy surfaces without preparation. However, it’s an excellent primer for exterior use because it sticks readily to plaster, paneling, masonry, brick, and painted metal without issue.

Get the Kilz 3 Premium paint primer at Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Best for Interior Walls

Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint Interior Acrylic Latex

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What We Like

• Thick paint goes on smoothly
• Can also be used on ceilings
• Tintable in Sherwin-Williams’ full color options
• Low-VOC formula

What We Don’t Like

• Expensive compared to similar options

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Interior
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Latex

Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint is the brand’s paint-and-primer combo available in interior and exterior formulations. The interior version is designed for one coat coverage on drywall, trim, and ceilings. SuperPaint creates a lasting finish and a surface that holds up to scrubbing.

We have used SuperPaint as our primary wall paint for years. It’s thicker than most interior paints, which allows it to cover in fewer coats than cheaper paints. The flat finish is perfect for ceilings, too. We could achieve solid coverage on walls in two coats, even over darker paint. Although we were able to cover a similar color wall in one coat in the past, we think it looks better with two coats of paint. The only con we have with this paint is that it’s expensive. However, Sherwin-Williams often offers promos that can help offset the cost.

Get the Sherwin-Williams paint primer at Sherwin-Williams.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Tested the Best Paint Primers

We tested each paint primer according to established rubrics, including how easy it was to apply, how well it adhered to various surfaces, and its stain- and odor-blocking abilities. We rated each primer based on these rubrics on a scale between 0 and 4 to determine a score. Lastly, we tested the primer’s durability and how attractive the final finish appeared on each surface.

We applied each primer to metal, masonry, drywall, and wood surfaces. The drywall surfaces included water stains, mildew, and lingering smoke odors. We applied two coats of primer to each surface and allowed it to dry for an hour, and then followed up with a flat white top coat to determine if there was any bleedthrough of stains and to judge the smoothness of the top coat.

What to Consider When Choosing a Paint Primer

When choosing a primer for your project, there are several features to consider. The best paint primer options efficiently cover multiple surfaces, block stains, and ensure an even, smooth top coat. Here are more details about important features to consider when choosing a paint primer.

Project Environment

Paint primers come in three formulas: interior/exterior, exterior, and interior.

Interior/exterior primers are suited for indoor and outdoor use, while exterior primers are designed for outdoor use only. Both contain additives that stave off UV-related fading and moisture-related mold issues; they also add flexibility to withstand frequent outdoor temperature changes, preventing the paint from peeling or cracking.

Interior primers, formulated without exterior additives, are only suitable for indoor use. Interior/exterior primer is the best bet for doing a range of painting jobs, indoors and out. Plus, choosing a primer that works inside and outside saves on the costs of buying separate interior and exterior products.

Surface

Each type of primer may adhere better to different surfaces. The following details the best primer type for common household surfaces:

• Bare wood: Apply an oil-based or latex primer to wood that has never been stained or painted to help seal the porous surface. Keep in mind that oil-based primers tend to emit more VOCs (smelly pollutants) than do latex primers.
• Drywall: Apply a latex primer to drywall, as an oil-based primer can raise the grain and make the surface look uneven.
• Stain-prone surfaces: Use a stain-blocking primer on stained wood, bare wood with high tannin content that can bleed out (e.g., cedar or redwood), interior walls with water or smoke stains, or cabinets/trim with grease stains. It will cover stains and keep them from bleeding into and discoloring top coats.
  • Choose latex stain-blocking primer if the stains are solvent-based (e.g., crayons or grease).
  • Choose an oil-based stain-blocking primer if the stain is water-based (e.g., water-based wood stain, smoke, or tannin).
• Painted wood: An oil-based primer is usually best for painted wood that shows chalking (a chalky powder on the surface as the paint binder degrades) or chipping; it will dry into a denser, smoother foundation to minimize these imperfections.
• Metal: Choose a rust-resistant oil-based primer on metals such as aluminum to avoid the formation of rust, which the water in latex primer can promote.
• Glossy surfaces: Bonding primer, formulated to stick to glossy surfaces, is a must for the slick likes of glass, plastic, or glazed tile.

Dedicated Primer vs. Paint-and-Primer in One

Self-priming paints—also known as paint-and-primer combo products—let users prime and paint a surface in a single step. But these two-in-one products are only recommended if all of the following are true:

• You’re not painting bare or stained wood.
• Your painting surface has no stains or signs of peeling.
• You’re repainting a previously painted surface in the same color or going from a lighter to a darker paint color.

Choose separate paint and primer to improve paint adhesion in the following situations:

• You’re painting bare or stained wood.
• You’re painting over a surface that has stains or is peeling.
• You’re switching from a darker to a lighter paint color.
• You want to use a paint with a different base than that of the primer. For example, use an oil-based primer with a latex paint to take advantage of the rot resistance of the oil primer and the lower VOCs and faster drying of the latex paint.
• You want to cover an old oil-based paint coat with a latex paint coat. An intervening layer of a dedicated primer is needed for optimal adhesion of the latex paint.

Tintability

Primer usually comes in white or gray. Use either color as is without tinting it or have the primer tinted to a hue that’s slightly lighter than the top coat. Tinting primer, which requires buying a primer labeled “tintable,” generally achieves a deeper, richer, and more uniform final color but is particularly recommended in the following situations:

• You’re changing the color from darker to lighter. The tinted primer reduces the number of paint coats needed to hide the darker base coat.
• For stubborn stains, like water or mildew, a tinted primer is necessary to block the stain effectively from bleeding through, especially when there is a light-color top coat.
• You’re changing from a lighter to a dramatically darker color, e.g., light blue to black. The tinted primer ensures that even if the top coat is uneven, no patches of white or gray primer will show through it.

Dry Time

Pay attention to the “dry-to-recoat” time specified on the primer packaging—an indication of when the primer is dry enough to be recoated either with another coat of primer or with paint. In general, latex primers have a shorter dry-to-recoat time of no more than 1 hour, whereas oil-based primers need 1 to 3 hours before they can be recoated.

FAQs

Meet the Tester

Debbie Wolfe is a photographer, author, and freelance writer in various niches. She has contributed hundreds of home, garden, and crafting articles and DIY tutorials for leading media outlets and retailers, including HGTV, Real Simple, Forbes Advisor, The Spruce, The Home Depot, Walmart, and Mother Earth News. She is the author of two DIY books: Do-It-Yourself Garden Projects and Crafts and Crafting with Herbs from Skyhorse Publishing. Her testing approach is straightforward and budget-minded.

Additional research provided by Manasa Reddigari.

The post 8 ​​Paint Primers That Provide a Blank Slate For Painting appeared first on Bob Vila.

Are you updating interior wood surfaces or refinishing a piece of furniture? You’ll first want to strip any stain from the wood. Removing dried wood stain and any protective varnish above it the initial step toward refinishing a prized piece of furniture or beautiful hardwood floors. 

Eliminating old wood stain can be a little trickier than paint removal, since the wood grain absorbs stain. Still, removing wood stain is a home improvement project that first-time DIYers can tackle in an afternoon. This guide will help you get the job done right.

Project Overview

Working time: About 2 hours, plus drying time
Total time: 24 hours
Skill level: Beginner/Intermediate
Estimated cost: $45 to $100

Before You Begin

Before starting to remove wood stain, assess and prepare your work area for safety. This DIY task often requires the use of chemical strippers, so include protective equipment as part of your preparation. Many types of chemical strippers emit strong fumes and have high amounts of volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Put on a long-sleeve shirt, long pants, and closed-toe shoes. Before you open the stripper, don chemical-resistant gloves and safety glasses to keep the stripper from coming into contact with your skin or eyes. Finally, put on a respirator mask.

Plan to do your work with wood stain remover in a well-ventilated area—or outdoors, if possible. Clear the area of dust before starting, then lay down a drop cloth to protect the floors.

Guide to Removing Wood Stain

Step 1: Gather your materials and prep the work area.

Before you get started, note that most wood strippers (and even paint strippers designed to handle varnish) contain harsh chemicals that are dangerous to breathe in and should not touch your skin. If possible, work outdoors. If your wood piece is too large to move or you are stripping hardwood floors, make sure windows are open and the room is well ventilated. If you are stripping stain from a piece of furniture, lay down a drop cloth to protect the work area. Have the paint brush, stripper, and paint scraper, and other tools within reaching distance.

Step 2: Choose your paint stripper.

Although sanding alone can remove some wood stains, in most situations, you will need a chemical paint stripper. Although these products are harsh and even toxic, they could do less damage to a prized antique or vintage piece than the roughness of sandpaper when sanding off stain from wood. The types of paint strippers include:

• Solvents, which are stronger and needed to work through varnish or thick layers or to remove oil-based stains. They can damage delicate wood, so be sure to follow directions carefully for use and safety precautions; these chemical strippers have a high VOC content and come with more health hazards than others.
• Caustic strippers, chemical strippers that are not as strong, and can remove latex- or water-based wood stains but not polyurethane varnish. They probably will take longer to work than solvents will. 
• Biochemical paint strippers, which are safer than caustic or solvent types because they contain plant-based and organic compounds. They emit lower VOCs, but can still irritate skin and the respiratory system; these strippers are only effective on water-based stains.
• Zero-VOC strippers might be the best option for DIYers who are concerned about VOCs and the use of common stripper chemicals like methylene chloride. These are less effective on wood than on metal or masonry, especially when it comes to removing polyurethane layers.

Step 2: Prepare wood for stripping.

Before applying your paint stripper, be sure to prep the piece of furniture by removing any hardware, such as doorknobs, handles, or drawer pulls. Wood strippers or finishers can damage the color of metal hardware on furniture and wood cabinets. Reaching all the stain on a piece might involve taking furniture legs off or otherwise disassembling the item. Set the hardware aside or in a ziplock bag for reassembly later. Wipe down all of the wood surfaces with a microfiber cloth right before applying stripper.

Step 3: Apply paint stripper.

After donning protective gear, pour some stripper into a container. Only use a container that is designed to hold corrosive solvents, such as a disposable aluminum pan or a metal bowl. Pour the stripper into the container carefully so you don’t get any on your clothes or the floor.

Dip the paintbrush into the container of stain stripper and apply a thick layer of the stripper to the wood. Carefully brush it across the surface of the wood until the entire surface is covered. Be sure to keep the layer of stripper even and thick. Gently push the stripper into nooks and crannies to be sure they are covered.

Step 4: Let the stripper soak in.

Generally, the stripper needs to soak in for about 20 minutes, but you’ll want to read the label on the stain stripper you’re using for the product’s recommended timing instructions. Check on it every few minutes for signs of bubbling, which indicates that the stripper is working. If you notice any dry patches on the wood, apply more stripper. Cover the wood with plastic wrap if you need to to keep the stripper from drying out too quickly.

Step 5: Scrape the stain stripper off the wood.

Use a plastic scraper to scrape the varnish and stain from the wood. (To prevent nicks or damage to the wood, don’t use a metal scraper.) Exert gentle but consistent pressure, since the stripper softens the wood’s surface. Start at one edge of the workpiece and gently push the scraper across the surface of the wood in a straight line to match the wood grain. Scrape off the debris (into a bucket or trash can, if you can), and repeat the process in a different area. Continue until all the stain stripper has been scraped away.

If the wood piece has a thick layer of varnish, this first pass with the stripper might remove only that protective coat, but little to no wood stain. Reapply a coat of stripper where needed, and follow the steps above for removing the wood stain. 

Step 6: Scrub the surface of the wood.

If only small amounts of stain remain, they might come off with final sanding. You can try scrubbing them off with a steel wool pad, wiping in the direction of the wood grain. If necessary, dip the steel wool pad in the stripper before wiping down the surface. Follow the direction of the grain and be sure to get into every nook and cranny. 

Once you are satisfied that all the varnish and stain have been removed, wipe down the surface of the wood with a wet rag. (Another option is to dampen a cloth with mineral spirits to remove residue from stain and the stripper.) Allow the piece of wood to dry for 24 hours.

Step 7: Sand the wood surface.

Once the wood is dry, sand it with medium-grit sandpaper. If you’re working on a large area, use an electric hand sander. When sanding wood, always apply steady pressure and sand in the direction of the wood grain. Continue sanding until you remove all traces of the varnish and stain. As you continue to sand, the existing stain will fade away, exposing the raw wood beneath.

Follow up with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out any scratches made by the coarser sandpaper.

Step 8: Wipe the dust with a damp rag.

Once you are satisfied with the color of the wood, clean the sanding dust from the surface. You can vacuum it off or wipe it well with a dry rag. Wipe again with a damp rag to remove all of the wood dust, using a dab of mineral spirits if desired. Once dry from the damp wipe, the piece of wood is ready for a new stain and protective finish.

FAQs

The post How to Remove Stain From Wood appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you’re thinking about updating a room with wood-paneled walls, your instinct might be to start fresh, either by tearing out the paneling or by concealing it behind drywall. Both of these options involve expenses that may be difficult to justify if you are on a budget. As long as your paneling is in decent condition, the least expensive way forward is to leave the paneling in place and paint it.

Regardless of whether your wood paneling is solid or veneer, it’s pretty easy to paint. If you’ve ever painted a piece of wood furniture, you’re probably already familiar with the basic steps, though in this case you’ll also need to think about protecting adjacent walls and trim, and accounting for the grooves in the paneling. Follow the steps in this guide to painting wood paneling, and you should get professional-level results.

Step 1: Clean the paneling with diluted TSP.

Dust, dirt, and oily fingerprints can prevent paint from adhering to wood paneling, so your first task is to thoroughly wash the wood-paneled walls with a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) and water. Before you use this toxic cleaner, put on full protective gear: full-sleeve clothing, rubber gloves, safety glasses, and a respiratory mask. Open windows in the room to adequately ventilate it. Then, dilute TSP per the instructions on the package in a bucket of water and wipe down the wood paneling with a sponge dampened in the solution.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I’ve painted wood paneling without thoroughly cleaning and priming, and it didn’t turn out perfect. The prep work is important. Clean the paneling with a wet rag to remove all dust and grime. A layer of primer will really help the paint and the overall end finish. A roller does most of the work, but a detail or sponge brush is really helpful for the gaps and textured elements on some panels.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 2: Lightly sand the wood paneling.

Next, proceed to lightly sand the walls using a technique aptly known as “scuffing”; the goal here is to create a good mechanical bond between the paneled wall and the initial coat of primer that you will soon be applying. You’ll use a 220-grit sandpaper in even circular motions to do so.

Today’s primers are so good that you can probably skip the sanding, but I think it’s worth doing. Even though it takes only 20 or 30 minutes, scuffing gives you long-lasting insurance against chipping paint. Just be sure to wear a dust mask and, for health reasons as well as cleanliness, wipe away dust with a tack cloth or damp rag as you go. (Now may also be the time to vacuum the floor so that you don’t track dust room to room.)

Step 3: Protect the floor from paint splatter using drop cloths and painter’s tape.

Save yourself from having to scrub errant paint drips and splatter off the floor after the paint job is complete by laying down a bunch of old newspaper or a drop cloth. If there is molding or ceiling that you do not want the paint to inadvertently color.

Step 4: Apply two thin coats of stain-blocking primer.

Having finished scuffing the full width and height of the wood paneling to be painted, give the surface its initial coat of primer to prevent any of the wood grain, imperfections, and the like from showing through the final coat of paint.

Choosing the right primer is key. For solid wood, use a water-based product; for veneer, use a shellac-based one. While it’s not strictly necessary to do so, you can have the primer tinted to match the shade you eventually plan to paint the wood paneling. One detail you absolutely should look out for? The words “stain-blocking” on the label. This trait helps hide any knots that appear throughout the wood paneling, or else you may see them bleed through your weekend paint job sometime in the future.

Start in with a 2-inch high-quality angle sash brush to cut in at corners, then keep it handy to dab away drips as you work.

Since you’ll be covering such a large surface, switch to a roller for the rest of the paint job—you’ll still be able to coat the grooves of paneled walls just fine. In order to avoid ending up with the orange peel–like texture that roller-applied paints sometimes produce, opt to use a foam sponge roller cover (it’s inexpensive and easily purchased at your local paint supply store or home improvement center).

Two thin primer coats are normally sufficient. Check your can of primer for instructions on exactly how long to wait between coats.

Step 5: Apply at least two thin coats of paint.

Top with your chosen paint applied in the same manner as described in Step 4. While you’re rolling on the paint in thin layers, pay close attention to how much collects in the panel grooves and wipe out any excess that might be too thick and become tacky once dry.

Lightly sand the surface between coats, and expect to do two or three in total (leaving adequate dry time between each). It’ll be a weekend project for sure, but, when you finish, you’ll certainly admire the difference painted wood paneling can make in a room! Whether you’ve chosen to paint wood paneling a lighter color to for a very airy farmhouse vibe or a matte black for something cozier and more dramatic, like a library, the fresh color will definitely deliver results.

The post How to Paint Wood Wall Paneling appeared first on Bob Vila.

Radiators have been keeping homes warm for about 150 years. While the units in your home probably aren’t that old, they may well bear signs of age: rust, chips, or a color that doesn’t suit your décor.

A fresh coat of paint can turn back the clock on a hot-water or steam cast-iron radiator, whether or not the unit is still operational. paint even dress up a unit made of mild steel, which is steel with a small amount of carbon. (Naturally rust- and fade-resistant stainless steel or aluminum radiators, on the other hand, aren’t usually painted. Those metals are less likely to need restoration in the first place, and these radiators have a more rigid, less pliant surface that isn’t particularly receptive to sanding and painting.) As with any paint project, painting a radiator is all about proper preparation, quality materials, and good technique.

Will you paint an old iron radiator white so it matches your baseboard trim, or select a bright hue that makes the heater a focal point rather than an eyesore? Once you settle on a suitable color and follow this guide for how to paint a radiator, the unit will have a new hue in the space of a weekend. 

Note: The radiator will need to be turned off for the duration of this project, so midwinter is probably not the best time to undertake the project.

Step 1: Select primer and paint.

Though you can certainly go the can-and-paintbrush route, we find that spray paint and primer will reach the curves, nooks, and crannies of this fixture best. Use an oil-based primer and either an oil- or water-based spray paint for metal that is labeled for interior use. Depending on your radiator, look for the following attributes:

• If you are painting a radiator that is non-operational, both the primer and paint that you use should be rust resistant.
• If you are painting a radiator that still works and is used to heat the home, the primer and paint should be rust resistant and able to withstand the high temperatures that radiators generate. Rust-Oleum High Heat Spray Paint is a good option.

If you want your radiator to blend in with its surroundings, go for a shade that closely matches the color of the wall behind it or the trim beneath it; to make the radiator pop, choose a hue that contrasts with the wall.

Step 2: Turn off the radiator, and cover vents and valves.

If your radiator is non-operational, skip this step and move on to Step 3.

For an operational radiator, turn the control valve located near the base of the unit clockwise until it reaches the “off,” or fully closed position, and let the unit cool completely.

Use painter’s tape to cover the valves and vents on your unit:

• On hot-water radiators, tape off the control valve and the air bleeder valve (located near the top of the unit)
• On two-pipe steam radiators, cover the steam vent valve near the top of the unit
• On on-pipe steam radiators, cover the air vent on the side of the unit.

Paint can block vents and make valves difficult to turn, which is why you want to avoid painting them.

Step 3: Prep the work area.

Apply masking tape to the wall around the perimeter of the radiator and lay drop cloths on the floor below the unit—you’ll want to do so thoroughly to protect the surrounding areas from overspray. Open a window in the room to improve ventilation while painting, and wear gloves and a respirator.

Step 4: Sand the metal radiator.

Scrape a small, inconspicuous area on the radiator surface with a screwdriver blade and look for flaking to confirm whether or not it had been previously painted or varnished. If there’s no flaking, go over any pitting from heavy rust with coarse-grit sandpaper, such as 40- to 60-grit. Then sand all surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 80- to 120-grit) to remove light rust accumulations and achieve a smooth, paintable surface.

If you’re covering a radiator that was previously painted, first test the paint for lead with a lead paint test kit (available at home centers for $7 to $15). Paint on radiators in homes built pre-1978 are the most likely to contain lead. Caution: Never scrape, sand, or otherwise disturb the surface of a radiator coated in lead paint, as you risk releasing lead particles, which can adversely affect the central nervous and endocrine systems if inhaled or swallowed and can even be fatal with high levels of exposure. Wait for the results, then sand and/or strip away any cracking paint using one of these methods:

• If the test is negative, use a putty knife to scrape away cracked/chipping paint from any of the radiator surfaces. Then, sand the surface using the sanding technique recommended above.
• If the test is positive, have a professional refinisher remove the paint, or use an environmentally friendly paint stripper such as Citristrip to remove it. These products trap the lead in gel to keep lead particles from going airborne.

Step 5: Wipe away the dust.

Glide a tack cloth over the radiator surface to remove sanding dust. Then, wipe down the surface with a water-dampened cloth to remove remaining dirt and debris. Let the radiator air dry fully.

Tried-and-True Advice

“It’s amazing how a fresh coat of paint can improve the aesthetics of any old radiator. I find it’s best to use compressed air to remove dust after sanding. You can wipe it down but air really helps to prep the surface for paint. A shop vacuum will also assist in full removal of dust particles if needed.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 6: Spray a coat of primer.

Holding the can of primer upright and at a distance of 10 to 16 inches from the radiator, spray an even coat over all visible surfaces using a back-and-forth motion. Let the primer coat dry completely per the product instructions before you move on to paint.

Step 7: Paint the radiator.

Employing the same technique used for the primer, spray an even coat of the high-temperature metal spray paint over all visible surfaces of the radiator using a back-and-forth motion.

Let the first coat dry for 5 to 7 minutes (or according to the product instructions). Apply one or more coats to achieve the desired depth of color, allowing each coat to dry for 5 to 7 minutes before applying the next. Spraying the coats in relatively quick succession minimizes paint run-off of the previous coat. Let the final coat dry completely.

Step 8: Clean up the workspace.

Remove the painter’s tape from the wall and radiator valves, and discard the drop cloths. If the radiator is operational, turn the radiator control valve counterclockwise to the “on” or fully open position.

The post How to Paint a Radiator appeared first on Bob Vila.

Part-time workshop, storage center for outdoor equipment, shelter for the family cars—the garage is a do-it-all space. Given all of the foot traffic (not to mention mess) that happens here, that space deserves as much attention as any other room in the home. Fortunately, one easy update can both refresh and preserve your multipurpose zone: painting the floor.

Good for more than just coloring your concrete, epoxy paint can make the surface easier to clean and act as a shield against grease and oil stains, both of which are common garage spills. The key to an expert application? Hold out for mild weather—like the crisp and dry temperatures that arrive in the fall—before getting to work on this weekend project. Then, follow these steps for how to paint a garage floor carefully and you’ll be rolling over and walking on glassy floors in no time.

How to Paint a Garage Floor

Step 1: Ensure that the garage is well ventilated.

Make sure your garage is well ventilated since you will be working with epoxy paint and bleach, both of which have strong fumes. Open a window or your garage door to ensure that air is circulating through the space. Next, pull on the proper protective gear: rubber gloves, dust mask, safety goggles, as well as a set of clothes you don’t mind splattering paint on.

Step 2: Clear the floor of dust and dirt.

Sweep the floor, and wash away all stains using a mixture of bleach and water so that it’s completely clean and clear of dust and dirt before you start painting. (Follow the product instructions to get the ratio of bleach to water exactly right.) If you encounter any stains that are especially stubborn, switch from a standard scrub brush to one with metal bristles to work them out.

When you’re done, rinse the entire area with clean water. Pro tip: Using a pressure washer may make this part of the job easier.

Step 3: Fill in any imperfections in the concrete floor.

If you notice any cracks in the floor, you’ll want to fill them in before painting over the full surface, otherwise they would leave noticeable dents in your renewed floor. Use a concrete filler to take care of smaller cracks and a concrete patch for larger ones. Be sure the cracks are completely clean and dry before applying the compound.

Step 4: Apply concrete etcher to the floor.

After everything has dried, both the bleach solution and any filler you may have used, check to see if you’ll need to etch the floor’s surface. (Etching is a process that will help the paint absorb better.) To test the floor, sprinkle a few drops of water onto the floor. If it absorbs quickly, you can move onto the next step; if the droplets don’t absorb quickly, your best bet is to apply a concrete etcher to the surface.

Concrete etchers can be purchased from hardware and home improvement stores. Following the package’s instructions, dilute the concrete etcher with water and mix it in a plastic bucket. Apply it to the entire floor using a stiff-bristled broom to move it around. Let it stand as long as the product requires, scrub with the broom, then rinse and mop up the extra water. In the end, your floor will have a texture similar to that of a medium-grit sandpaper. allow the floor to dry overnight before you begin painting.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When I painted my garage floor, I found that putting painter’s tape along the edges of the floor where it meets the walls helped me achieve a crisp, professional finish.

I also used a small foam brush to carefully paint along the edges before rolling the epoxy paint onto the larger areas. This helped prevent the roller from accidentally splattering paint all over the walls and saved me from doing touch-ups later. I kept a damp rag nearby to quickly clean up any accidental smudges while the paint was still wet.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Step 5: Prime the floor.

Next, just as you would on walls or furniture, apply a primer coat of paint to your dry garage floor. To take the back-breaking bending out of the application process, though, swap a standard paintbrush or roller for a long-handled paint roller instead.

Let it dry for six to eight hours before moving on to the topcoat.

Step 6: Apply two coats of epoxy.

Mix the epoxy paint well, and apply the first layer using a nylon brush and a water-resistant roller cover. Give that first coat 24 hours to dry before applying the second one.

Then, wait at least five days before walking (or driving) on the floor’s surface. A week later, when you’re rolling your car over the new garage floor, you’re sure to agree that this is one refresh well worth the wait.

The post How to Paint a Garage Floor appeared first on Bob Vila.

Over time, your home’s walls accumulate dings, nail holes, even random spots where some not-so-temporary tape pulled away a chunk of paint. That’s when you get out the spackling compound, putty knife, and touch-up paint.

Not sure where that old can of paint went? Or, maybe you found it, but the original paint is too old to use. No matter—you can find success by obtaining a match of your old color.

Of course, that’s not the only time that knowing how to match paint can come in handy. The same process also aids homeowners who are restoring an older home to its original glory, replicating a hue seen on Pinterest, or framing an entire room’s color scheme around a color in a painting or a throw pillow. Whatever your situation, there are several ways you can match paint to your desired color. While a 100-percent match is not always possible, these tricks should get you so close to the intended shade that no one will notice any discrepancy (except maybe you).

Before You Begin

There are a few things to know or try before you head to the paint store. Light determines how the paint color appears, and light—whether from a window or from a fixture—changes throughout the day, which can affect color matching. The type of paint you use also affects how the paint interacts with light. Matte finishes absorb more light and keeps the color looking relatively consistent, whereas glossier sheens reflect light.

If you’re renting your home, check in with your landlord to make sure you have permission to paint the property. Your rental agreement may prevent you from personalizing the space with your preferred hues. While the landlord may make an exception, be sure to get it in writing to avoid any complications if and when you eventually move out. If you’re just doing some touch-ups, though, your landlord may provide exact paint matches with interior paint they already have on hand.

Homeowners have much more freedom when it comes to painting the interior of their home, as they don’t require approval before jumping into the project. If you’re looking to color match paint for a touch up, dig around in the basement or garage first, because previous owners sometimes leave cans of paint behind.

The Best Ways to Match Paint

Wondering how to match paint? There are several ways to go about it. Each method has its upsides for the painter and, depending on what you’re painting, your budget, and how precise you want to be, you’re sure to find a method that works for you.

1. Cut a paint chip from the wall and bring it to your paint specialist.

Best for: Wall touch ups and painting projects that require a color match that is as true to the source as possible.

Advantage: The spectrophotometer reads from an actual paint sample instead of a swatch, generating an objective color match.

When all else fails and you need a perfect match for a wall that’s already painted, collect a sample to take to the paint store. Paint color is different from sheen, and an overly glossy sample can affect how the color is determined, though an analyst will get fairly close using a spectrophotometer, a device that breaks down color into its various wavelengths, and then analyzes them to determine the exact combination of paint pigments needed to recreate the desired color. will still get fairly close. Thankfully, for wall paint, the sheen is usually flat, matte, or eggshell, which offer a closer match than glossier paints.

This is how to match wall paint using paint chips from the wall you wish to match:

1. Using a sharp utility blade, score and remove a small square on a section of painted drywall that’s not too conspicuous. For best results, you’ll need a chip that’s at least 1 inch square.
2. At the paint store, staff will use their spectrophotometer to analyze the chip and match it to their brand’s closest color. Be aware, however, that because most of the big-name paint brands do their best to avoid reproducing a trademarked color, they might not be able to create an exact match, although you should be able to get close enough to fool the untrained eye.
3. Before applying the new paint, remember to patch the spot where you took the sample. Use spackle to fill in any depressions or gouges, smooth it with a scraper or dull blade, and let it dry completely before painting the wall.

2. Take fabric or thread in for professional paint color matching.

Best For: Coordinating walls or furniture to existing room accents or favorite items.

Advantage: Using a tangible item to color match removes the color variations you sometimes get from photos and computer screens.

Maybe you don’t have a sample of paint, but you do have a swatch of fabric, a spool of thread, a favorite shirt, or a throw pillow in your desired color. Just about every paint store has a spectrophotometer, so all you have to do is bring this “sample” to your paint store and let the technicians there use their color-matching wizardry to find the closest hue. Then, the technician can match the findings to the closest color of that brand’s paint.

Tried-and-True Advice

“Think ahead to future paint touchups: Create a physical or digital file with important home decor and maintenance information. Include a paint card (or digital picture), or make a [paint] sample by painting a small piece of wallboard, card stock, or other sturdy material. On the sample or in your digital file, write down the paint brand, color name, identification number, and sheen.”

—Stacey Nash, Contributing Writer

3. Use a color-matching tool like the Nix Mini 3.

Best For: Finding a virtually true color paint match for essentially any home paint project, including touch ups.

Advantage: Provides fast and accurate color matches from any object (even stationary ones) and finds paint matches from top paint brands. It also saves the color profiles for future reference.

Once only within the budgets and skillsets of scientists, handheld color analyzers, including the Nix Mini 3, which sells for around $100, are now widely accessible and within most DIYers’ budgets. These gadgets, which work in tandem with an app, are quick and easy to use: Press the sensor against the item whose hue you want to replicate—be that painted wall, a swatch of fabric, even a natural object, like a leaf—and the sensor does the rest. If you’re sure of the brand of paint you used but can’t remember the shade, use the “match to paint brand” feature in the app and the Nix Mini 3 will recall the shade.

4. Bring home a few paint color samples.

Best For: Finding a truer match for touch ups, painting walls, or furniture.

Advantage: You can tape the swatches to your wall and observe how the room’s natural light and artificial lights work with the color before buying the paint.

Want to match that pale yellow, bright blue, or stormy-sky-gray wall or furniture? Head to your favorite paint store, and gather up a selection of paint chips close to the hue you are trying to match. Take the chips home and hang them on the surface whose color you want to duplicate, then observe in multiple lights, including daylight and lamplight. Whichever chip matches most closely is the winner.

RELATED: 8 Mistakes You’re Making at the Paint Store

5. Download a paint-matching app.

Best For: Painting an entire wall or piece of furniture by color matching digital images, other walls, or swatches. It can work well for touch-ups if you previously used the brand of paint from the app provider.

Advantage: Certain apps offer augmented reality to help you visualize the final product, choose paint swatches digitally, find complementary colors, and calculate the amount of paint you need for a project.

Many large paint companies and home improvement retailers, including The Home Depot and Sherwin-Williams, have mobile apps that make paint matching a breeze. Each works a little differently, but the gist is the same: Download the app to your smartphone, snap a photo of the painted surface you want to match (in natural light, for best results), upload it, and voilà! You’ll get that manufacturer’s best matches. Bonus: You’ll even be able to preview colors that complement that shade, and design the perfect palette from the comforts of your own home.

6. Eyeball it.

Best For: Approximate color-matching to fabric swatches and other items, where you will be painting an entire wall or piece of furniture.

Advantage: Eyeballing a color does not require a paint specialist, high-tech equipment, or apps. It’s simple and straightforward.

If an absolute match isn’t critical, you might eyeball the paint options at the store and choose a paint swatch that seems the closest to the color you want to match. You’re, of course, unlikely to use this method when trying to match existing paint in a highly visible area—say, where your living room gallery wall used to hang—but it’s a perfectly acceptable option when you just want a shade that comes close. For example, you might not need the precise robin’s egg blue you saw painted in a nursery or the exact shade of navy spotted on a painted buffet via Instagram. It does make sense, however, to pick up a swatch and hang it on your intended accent wall to make sure you’re happy with it before you start.

7. Take a photo and show your paint specialist.

Best For: Approximate color matching for an entire wall or piece of furniture.

Advantage: Primarily ease of use for the DIYer. Most smartphones use high-definition cameras, making it simple to get a color sample of an existing wall or item without downloading an app, finding a swatch, or cutting out a piece of your existing wall.

Even without using a color app, go ahead and take a picture with your phone (again, while the object or room is illuminated with natural light) and take that photo to your favorite paint store. They’ll be able to match the color very closely with their in-store spectrophotometer. Eyeballing a shade aside, this is the option most likely to be inaccurate due to variations in color display on smartphone cameras. Still, if you’re not dead-set on a perfect match, you should get satisfactory results.

Final Thoughts

The above scenarios should help you figure out how to match paint for a particular project around your home. If you want to seamlessly cover up an imperfection using an existing wall color, or get an almost-replica of an expensive brand’s color, matching paint is a brilliant way to go.

Using our recommendations, you should be able to get a fairly precise color match, even with a different brand of paint that was used previously—saving you time and money.

FAQs

The post How to Match Paint: 7 Effective Methods appeared first on Bob Vila.

Putting a new face on tired-looking home accents can be as simple as brushing on a few coats of paint. But if you want to achieve a unique antique-style finish, think outside the conventional can of latex paint and opt for chalk paint instead.

A water-based decorative paint developed and made popular by Annie Sloan, chalk paint is a nondamaging blend of calcium carbonate, talc, and pigments that delivers a whimsical matte white finish with chalk-white undertones. It has become the veneer of choice for DIYers looking to revive their outdated wooden furnishings, although it’s also suitable for use on masonry, drywall, metal, glass, and fabric.

Before You Begin

If it’s at all feasible, work on your paint project indoors. Chalk paint adheres best at room temperature. Protect the floor of your work space from paint splatter by laying out newspaper or a drop cloth under the piece you’re painting.

How to Apply Chalk Paint

How much chalk paint should you purchase for your project? Typically, a liter of chalk paint can cover 140 square feet, which is roughly the surface area of a small dresser. It is also possible to make your own chalk paint, though you aren’t likely to save a lot of money by doing so unless you already have latex paint at home.

Step 1: Remove hardware.

Detach any removable elements, such as cushions, shelves, drawers, hinges, knobs, and hardware, from the workpiece.

Step 2: Prepare surfaces for painting.

Preparing furniture to be painted is pretty straightforward: Chalk paint can adhere to most surfaces, so there’s no need to sand wood furniture (even if you’re working with varnished wood pieces), or prime it, before introducing the chalk paint. That said, there are some furniture finishes that will need special preparation before chalk paint is applied.

• Paint-covered, rust-covered, or high-gloss surfaces like laminates could use a light sanding with 150-grit or finer sandpaper in order to remove obstacles to adhesion.
• Untreated wood should have a coat of clear shellac applied with a cloth rag before chalk paint is applied. Cure the shellac according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This coat prevents tannins in the wood from bleeding into the paint and altering the color.

Before applying chalk paint, clean furniture and other items carefully: Using a soft cloth saturated in soapy water, wipe down the entire surface of the piece to lift dirt, debris, oil, and sanding dust. Give the surface a once-over with a clean, damp cloth, then let it dry completely. Cover any areas you don’t want to paint with painter’s tape.

Step 3: Apply the first coat of chalk paint.

Before opening the paint can, turn it upside down to loosen the contents, then shake it to ensure that the chalk paint is well mixed.

Depending on the size of the object you’re painting, you can use a brush, roller, or spray gun to apply chalk paint.

• To apply chalk paint with a brush: For a smooth, uniform finish, choose a natural-bristle paint brush with long, flexible bristles. Dip the brush into the can, and tap the handle against the lid of the can to remove excess paint. Then, apply the paint in unidirectional strokes to one section of the piece at a time until the entire surface is covered.
• To apply chalk paint with a paint roller: Pour the chalk paint into a paint tray, then load it onto a high-density foam paint roller (depending on the size of the furniture, a 4-inch mini roller may be the best option). Scrape off the excess paint on the grid of the pan. Roll a thin layer of paint in a long, unidirectional stroke, then pull it back and make one more stroke in the original direction. Repeat this process until the entire surface is coated.
• To apply chalk paint with a paint sprayer: Chalk paint is a naturally thick medium that may not flow readily from all paint sprayers. One fix for this problem is to water down the chalk paint (adding approximately 2 tablespoons of water for every cup of paint) before loading it into the gun. Or, you can load the paint as is and operate the gun at maximum pressure, preferably with a spray tip measuring at least 1.8 millimeters to enable the fluid to flow. To avoid damaging your spray gun, test this method on a small, inconspicuous area of the piece before tackling larger areas.

Allow the first coat to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I love how resilient chalk paint is when working over different surface types. Temperature is the most important variable for adhesion, so set the thermostat to 65 degrees indoors before painting. This makes a surprising difference and allows the paint to set properly. For outdoor application, choose a day with mild but warm temperatures for the same reason.

We have a habit of thoroughly prepping and cleaning surfaces for painting. Chalk paint offers an exception to the normal paint-prep rules. When painting furniture and wood surfaces especially, moderate to little prep is required. Skip the heavy sanding and jump right into the painting process.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 4: Apply a second coat of paint, if needed.

A single coat of chalk paint is sufficient for many applications. If, however, you need to cover any visual imperfections, or if you want to create a two-tone decorative finish in which the bottom layer of paint shows through around the distressed edges, you can opt to apply a second coat in the same color or a lighter shade.

Step 5: Distress the surface with medium-grit sandpaper (optional).

Examine the finish. If you want a more polished matte look, keep it as is. Otherwise, to achieve a subtly worn patina, distress the painted surface with medium-grit sandpaper, focusing on the edges or details you want to accentuate.

Step 6: Apply wax sealer.

When you’re happy with the finish, seal the paint with one or more coats of clear or tinted wax, gently massaging the wax into the painted surface with a soft wax brush. As a rule of thumb, use a 500-milliliter tin of wax for every 3 to 4 liters of paint. Although wax can dry in less than a half hour, it’s best to let it sit overnight. Total curing of the wax can take up to 3 weeks, although the furniture is ready to use as soon as the wax is dry.

Step 7: Replace hardware.

Reinstall hardware, shelving, or other elements that you you removed from the piece, and let your upcycled accent piece shine!

The post How to Use Chalk Paint appeared first on Bob Vila.

Green paint colors offer seemingly endless possibilities when it comes to creating a fresh and inviting home. By including a green color—from soft sage to deep forest—in your color scheme, you can transform and freshen a space while creating a sense of connection to the outdoors. 

Whether you’re looking to make a bold statement or create a subtle backdrop with nearly-white painted walls, there’s a green that could work for every room and style. Keep reading to see our top picks for the best green paint colors for home interiors. 

1. Dried Thyme, Sherwin-Williams

“Dried Thyme ranks pretty high as one of my favorites,” explains Trina Rogers, color consultant at Five Star Painting in Temple, Texas. “It is a medium-dark muted green with just a bit of a gray-blue tone. It works well in many areas of the home including kitchen cabinets, interiors, and exteriors.” 

She adds, “If Dried Thyme seems a little too green for you, compare it to the slightly more gray-green Retreat.”

Get Dried Thyme at Lowe’s.

2. Saybrook Sage, Benjamin Moore 

A timeless sage green that brings subtle sophistication to a room, Saybrook Sage is a great choice for those who are looking to create a calming atmosphere. Its muted quality allows it to function as a neutral while still providing more character than standard beige or gray. It’s perfect for living rooms or bedrooms where you want to create a soothing effect without sacrificing style.

Get Saybrook Sage at Ace Hardware.

3. Green Smoke, Farrow & Ball 

This deep, smoky green paint color has rich undertones, creating an atmosphere of timeless elegance. It’s particularly effective in home offices, dining rooms, or anywhere you want to create an intimate feeling, Green Smoke has dramatic depth while maintaining sophistication. It’s also an excellent choice for making a statement in rooms that get lots of natural light.

Get Green Smoke at Farrow & Ball.

4. Wethersfield Moss, Benjamin Moore 

A rich, traditional green like Wethersfield Moss can bring warmth and character to a room. Wethersfield Moss works beautifully in both modern and classic settings. Its depth makes it particularly suitable for creating accent walls or highlighting architectural features, while its natural undertones help maintain a connection to the outdoors.

Get Wethersfield Moss at Ace Hardware.

5. Sea Salt, Sherwin-Williams 

Sea Salt from Sherwin-Williams is a light green paint with subtle gray undertones that creates a fresh, coastal feeling. Perfect for bathrooms or bedrooms where you want a spa-like atmosphere, Sea Salt provides a gentle backdrop that can work with both warm and cool color schemes.

Get Sea Salt at Sherwin-Williams.

6. Hunt Club, Sherwin-Williams 

This deep, versatile shade will add drama to any room. “Hunt Club is a dark, rich, blue-green that almost looks teal,” says Rogers. “If you want something with a little less blue tone, look at Isle of Pines. Both of these gorgeous saturated colors would do well in living areas or bedrooms to create a cozy space perfect for relaxing.” If you have a space that doesn’t receive a lot of natural light, consider leaning into a moody vibe with a deep color like this one. 

Get Hunt Club at Sherwin-Williams.

7. Back to Nature, Behr 

A balanced, earthy green, Back to Nature was recognized as the Behr color of the year in 2020, and it’s easy to see why. The tint has yellow undertones and brings a certain liveliness to interior spaces while being subtle enough for easy everyday living. It’s particularly effective in creating seamless indoor-outdoor connections in spaces with plenty of natural light.

Get Back to Nature at The Home Depot.

8. Sparkling Sage, Valspar 

This refreshing take on sage green interior paint brings sophistication with a modern twist. Its bright, airy quality makes it perfect for kitchens and bathrooms where natural light can highlight its subtle variations. The balance of gray and green undertones allows it to pair well with both warm wood tones and cool marble surfaces, making it versatile enough for many different rooms.

Get Sparkling Sage at Lowe’s.

9. Liveable Green, Sherwin-Williams 

As its name suggests, this versatile green paint color creates an easy-to-live-with backdrop that creates a soothing vibe. Its balanced undertones make it particularly suitable for open-concept spaces where color flow is crucial. The color tone reads differently throughout the day, appearing more gray in dim light and showing its green undertones in bright sunlight. 

Get Liveable Green at Sherwin-Williams.

10. Salamander, Benjamin Moore 

Among dark green paint colors, this rich, green brings dramatic sophistication to a home. Its depth makes it perfect for creating intimate dining rooms or cozy libraries, while its subtle black undertones add a modern edge that works beautifully in contemporary settings. When paired with metallic accents, Salamander takes on an especially luxurious quality, making it ideal for spaces where you want to make a bold yet refined statement.

Get Salamander at Ace Hardware.

11. Soft Fern, Benjamin Moore 

Soft Fern is a gentle, nature-inspired green that captures the essence of spring foliage. Its subtle warmth makes it an excellent choice in bedrooms and living spaces where you want to maintain a connection to nature without overwhelming the senses. The color’s versatility allows it to work equally well in traditional and modern settings, particularly when paired with crisp white trim or natural textures.

Get Soft Fern at Benjamin Moore.

12. Mizzle, Farrow & Ball 

This sophisticated gray-green creates a gentle, misty atmosphere that transforms beautifully throughout the day, making it perfect for rooms with changing light conditions. Its complex undertones provide depth and interest while maintaining a soothing presence that works particularly well in bedrooms and bathrooms. The color’s ability to shift between gray and green, depending on the light source, makes it an excellent choice for spaces where you want to create a subtle, ethereal quality while maintaining architectural interest.

Get Mizzle at Farrow & Ball.

13. Vine Leaf, Behr 

Behr’s Vine Leaf is inspired by the green hues found in a garden, and it brings a natural energy indoors. Its balanced undertones prevent it from feeling overwhelming, even in larger spaces. The color works particularly well when the goal is to create an energizing connection to nature in home offices and sunrooms. In addition to Vine Leaf green painted walls, it’s also a great choice for kitchen cabinets and other built-in architectural features. 

Get Vine Leaf at The Home Depot.

14. Hunter Green, Benjamin Moore 

A classic dark green paint color, Hunter Green brings timeless elegance with a contemporary edge. Its rich depth makes it perfect for creating sophisticated accent walls or enveloping entire rooms in cozy warmth. Hunter Green works exceptionally well in traditional spaces like libraries and dining rooms, where it creates a formal atmosphere without feeling stuffy. The shade takes on a particularly luxurious quality when paired with brass fixtures and rich wood tones, making it ideal for spaces where you want to make a strong design statement.

Get Hunter Green at Benjamin Moore. 

15. Softened Green, Sherwin-Williams 

“Softened Green is light, muted, neutral green warmed with slight yellow tones,” says Rogers. “Consider this for multiple areas in the home including common areas, bedrooms, bathrooms, entryways, or offices to create a soothing and subdued environment.” The color’s versatility makes it an excellent choice for open-concept spaces where color flow is important. For a similar choice, Rogers suggests trying the slightly more gray-green Contented, which offers comparable adaptability.

Get Softened Green at Sherwin-Williams.

16. Avocado, Benjamin Moore 

Avocado is a warm, organic green that brings retro charm while maintaining modern versatility. Its yellow undertones create a welcoming atmosphere that works particularly well in gathering spaces like kitchens and family rooms. A color that immediately freshens up a room, the green reads as a neutral in some lights while showing its personality in others, making it adaptable to various design styles. 

Get Avocado at Benjamin Moore.

17. Hazel, Sherwin-Williams 

While the name may suggest that this color contains tones of both green and brown, it’s actually a mid-tone color with a hint of blue. It’s bright and cheerful enough to suit children’s bedrooms but is mature enough to work just as well in bathrooms and kitchens. Because the color is reminiscent of ocean waters, it also brings a fresh coastal feel to a space. 

Get Hazel at Sherwin-Williams.

18. Halo, Benjamin Moore 

This ethereal color delivers a whisper of sage and creates an airy, peaceful ambiance. Its gentle undertones work beautifully in bedrooms and living spaces where you’re aiming to create a calm atmosphere. When used in rooms with lots of natural light, Halo’s subtle green tint becomes more apparent, while in darker spaces it reads as a sophisticated neutral. The versatility of this barely-there green shade makes it perfect for those who want to experiment with color while keeping the overall color scheme relatively neutral.

Get Halo at Benjamin Moore.

19. Breakfast Room Green, Farrow & Ball 

Breakfast Room Green is a cheerful yet sophisticated green that brings a garden-fresh feel to a home while maintaining an air of classic elegance. The color works beautifully in breakfast nooks and sunrooms, but also holds its own in more formal spaces like dining rooms. When paired with crisp white trim, Breakfast Room Green creates a bright, uplifting atmosphere that feels both traditional and current.

Get Breakfast Room Green at Farrow & Ball.

The post 19 of the Best Green Paint Colors for Any Room in Your Home appeared first on Bob Vila.

Learning how to texture a wall can help DIYers transform boring surfaces or newly built walls into visually appealing ones with rustic charm or depth. Texturing walls also can help hide imperfections that might exist. 

DIYers can choose from several methods and tools to apply and create texture, and we’ve addressed five common wall texturing methods, incorporating advice from painting professionals. 

Wall Texture Types

Simply rolling texture onto bare or damaged walls can improve their appearance, but several types of texturing can look more professional and purposeful. According to Chuck Reger, franchise business coach with Five Star Painting, a Neighborly company, some are easier for DIYers than others. “Knockdown and orange peel are manageable for beginners; skip trowel and sand swirl demand more skill and patience,” says Reger. Common types of wall texture are:

• Comb: This is a simple technique, creating thin lines in either direction, or even swirls, with a comb tool or notched trowel.
• Popcorn: Though popcorn walls and ceilings hark back to the ‘70s, the texture goes on easily and is superb at hiding imperfections; it is typically achieved with a sprayer.
• Orange peel: This texture has smaller bumps than popcorn texture, and is easier to clean. Spray the texture material on in small splatters from a can or a spray hopper. (This article’s feature image, courtesy of Zoe Grant at DBD Lifestyles, highlights the orange-peel technique in an Alice in Wonderland-themed bathroom.)
• Knockdown: Making a second pass over orange peel texture with a trowel or sponge to flatten peaks and bumps gives the wall this stucco-like appearance. For stomp technique, smack a stiff brush repeatedly against the compound. Some of the mud pulls away from the wall with each strike. Before it dries, eliminate unwanted peaks with a knife or paint scraper.
• Swirl or sand swirl: Swirls create both texture and movement on a wall by using a trowel to create a swirl pattern (or by using a special brush or roller for complete circles). This texturing type requires some skill, and might be best left to a professional.
• Slap brush: This technique creates a random pattern of edges or bumps with a stiff brush, and requires more skill than other texture types.
• Slap brush knockdown: Combining slap brush and the flattening of knockdown, this more advanced texture type involves several tools to accomplish a finished look with random patterns of wide lines.
• Skip trowel: Similar to knockdown, this type involves applying texture with a sprayer and then using a trowel to pull the material around, lifting every so often for the skipped look.

Project Overview

Working Time: About 3 hours for a standard 10-foot by 10-foot wall
Total Time: 27 hours, including drying time
Skill Level: Beginner to expert, depending on the texture type chosen
Estimated Cost: From $30 to $1,000 (50 cents to $2 per square foot for a pro)

Before You Begin

Before applying texture to a wall, decide the best method and texture type for the look you want to achieve. Also assess tools you have on hand, the cost of materials and tools, and your DIY wall texture skills. No matter the method, start with a smooth, even surface “for better texture adhesion and a uniform finish,” says Reger. The existing drywall “should be free from any cracks and the drywall tape needs to be skim coated and sanded,” he says. Painted walls in good condition need only a coat of primer before texturing, says Reger.

Be sure the surface is clean and that skim coats or primers are dry. Then, gather all the tools you need so you can work relatively quickly to prevent premature drying of your texture material while you search for tools or supplies. In addition to specific tools listed with each below, gather typical painting project supplies like drop cloths to protect surfaces, a ladder, and a brush or sponge to cut into corners.

How to Texture Walls With Joint Compound 

SUPPLIES
Premixed joint compound
Water
Clean bucket or pail for mixing
Drill with mixing wand
Trowel or wide compound knife
Drywall mud pan (if desired)
Sponge, roller, notched trowel, or brush, depending on texture type desired

Also known as drywall mud, joint compound is a material designed to cover drywall tape or imperfections.  When working with joint compound, avoid applying it to a large area; work in patches as you note how quickly the material dries on the wall. Follow these basic steps to apply the compound and add texture:

• Add water to the compound just before applying, according to the product’s label directions and how you will apply the material. 
• Mix the water in thoroughly, using a drill with a mixing wand if possible, until it has the consistency ranging from thick pancake batter to peanut butter (thicker for a more detailed or defined pattern).
• Apply the watered-down compound to your wall using a paint roller or trowel. A trowel can apply thicker layers over problem areas.
• If using a trowel or compound knife, hold the tool at an angle (of about 15 degrees), spreading as you apply. 
• Go back over the compound with a trowel to knock down peaks or create your desired texture with a specific tool. For example, dab with a sponge or brush, use a special swirl brush or roller, or use a notched trowel to create ridges or lines.
• Before the texture dries, step back and check your work periodically.
• Check the work again when you’ve finished a wall, looking for areas that lack texture or have too much, adding compound or adjusting texture as needed.
• Allow joint compound to dry thoroughly (typically 24 hours) before covering the wall with paint.

How to Texture Walls With Paint

SUPPLIES
Primer
Textured paint or texture additive
Roller, paint sprayer, or a trowel

Many of the major paint manufacturers offer lines of textured paints. The paints are available in a range from smooth to coarse texture, often based on common wall texturing types such as knockdown or popcorn, or as sand texture or Venetian plaster. “Textured paint can offer subtle texture, but typically lacks the depth of traditional methods like trowel or knockdown technique,” says Reger. They also can be more difficult to remove than plaster. In addition, texture additives are available for most interior paints to broaden color choice. 

• Start with a small accent wall or practice piece to master the application of textured paint. Some of these products, such as Venetian plaster, take time and skill to master.
• Prime the clean, touched-up walls.
• Tape off areas you want to protect from the paint.
• Follow manufacturer recommendations for application. 
• In general, work quickly to cover the entire surface before the coat dries to prevent rigid lines where sections intersect. 
• After the recommended drying time, check for missed areas. Most textured paints require two coats, one for the base and another as the finishing layer, using your desired texturing tool.

 How to Texture Walls with a Roller

SUPPLIES
Premixed joint compound or textured paint
Paint tray
Paint roller and finishing roller if desired
Roller cover (½-inch to ¾-inch nap)
Paint brush

Using a paint roller to apply joint compound or textured paint is a simple and inexpensive approach to wall texturing, relying on tools most DIYers have on hand. One pass alone can create a basic texture with an antique look. 

• Start with clean, dry walls.
• Pour medium-to-thin texture compound (or a textured paint product) into a roller tray.
• Dip a ½-inch nap (or thicker) paint roller brush and roll the texture product onto a section of wall.
• To add a more finished look, roll the wall again with a clean roller brush after the joint compound has partially dried to lift some off for a more finished texture.
• Follow manufacturer directions for textured paint or additives to ensure proper roller application and number of coats.
• Go back over the wall as desired with other texturing tools or a finishing broadleaf roller with a design.
• Texture corners or edges where the roller cannot reach with a brush.
• Allow the paint or compound to dry completely before painting.

For a faux finish, which gives the allusion of texture with standard paint, roll on a base coat and allow it to dry. Then roll a second paint color or glaze over the base coat with a ¾-inch nap roller or a special stencil roller.

How to Texture Walls with a Sponge

SUPPLIES
Paint
Synthetic or paint sponges

Sponges are handy tools for second passes over trowel- or roller-applied compound to create a stippled effect in the texture, especially in hard-to-reach corners (you can easily cut a sponge to fit). A typical household synthetic sponge will create a fairly uniform effect, while sea sponges create more natural patterns. Paint sponges also work well to create interesting faux textures with standard or textured paint. 

• Apply wall texture with a roller or trowel, depending on whether you want to start with a relatively smooth or more raised effect.
• Dab the sponge on the compound while it is still relatively wet to achieve a stippled effect. Avoid a wiping motion.
• For faux texture with paint, prepare the wall, including painting the base layer or underlying color you want to show through the sponged paint.
• Soak one side of the sponge in the paint and dab it randomly but repeatedly on the wall. 
• After finishing, check your application or texturing to improve its natural look or make it more uniform, dabbing as needed.

How to Texture Walls With a Texture Sprayer

SUPPLIES
Drop cloths and painter’s tape
Joint compound mixed with water
Gravity-fed texture sprayer or pressurized texture sprayer (purchase or rent)
Finishing tools

Although wall texture spray cans are available and relatively inexpensive, they are designed primarily for small jobs or to repair patches or popcorn texture, for example. If you wish to texture a ceiling, a large surface, or several walls, consider using a drywall texture sprayer to speed up the task. The tool should be available for purchase or rental from home improvement centers. 

A texture sprayer is similar to a paint sprayer, which uses either gravity or compressed air and a gun-like nozzle to spray dense texture. Just beware that using these tools requires some skill, along with “proper setup and cleanup,” says Reger. If you’re uncomfortable using a sprayer, consider getting quotes from a professional.

• Cover any windows, light fixtures, floors, or other surfaces nearby, and remove furniture.
• Mix the joint compound and water well, according to the directions of the compound manufacturer and the sprayer instructions. Spraying joint compound typically requires a thinner consistency than if using a roller or trowel.
• Fill the sprayer’s hopper with the mixed joint compound.
• Before starting, check the sprayer label directions to determine how to adjust the nozzle to control how much material it sprays to match your desired pattern and coverage. 
• Spray in smooth and consistent motions, completing one wall before beginning another.  
• Adjust the nozzle as needed, wiping off any unwanted material before it dries.
• Complete the texturing design as desired with tools such as a trowel or sponge before the compound dries completely. 
• Clean the hopper and sprayer as soon as possible after finishing, according to the unit’s directions. 

Tips for Wall Texturing

Keep it random. Larry Oliver of Norwalk, Connecticut-based Lawrence Oliver Painting, says that no matter which technique you use: “When texturing walls, try not to be too repetitive, making the same shape over and over like chicken tracks,” he says. “To create a more professional finish, keep the textured pattern random.” 

Easily correct mistakes. When working with joint compound, if you apply too much or incorrectly position it, you can simply wipe away the mistake and begin again, even smoothing out damp compound with a trowel and starting over. 

Trowel at an angle. When learning how to texture a wall, always apply joint compound while holding the trowel at about a 15-degree angle, Oliver suggests. “The slight angle and light pressure ensure that you do not smooth out your finish too much,” he adds. 

Adjust drying time to reflect conditions. When working with joint compound in humid climates or areas, “allow extra drying time,” says Reger, and use fans or dehumidifiers to prevent sagging or uneven textures. He suggests that in dry climates, DIYers “lightly mist the surface to prevent cracking or premature drying during application.” 

Watch edges and corners. Many DIYers don’t pay enough attention to corners and edges, says Oliver.  “Always remember not to be heavy-handed in the corners and edges,” he cautions.

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