Have you pulled out of your driveway lately with a frost-covered windshield, hoping that the defroster will kick in as you cruise out of your neighborhood? We’re all in a hurry to get to where we’re going, but for safety’s sake, take the time to properly de-ice your car’s windows. Clear visibility is important anytime you’re driving, but when snow and ice are involved, it’s best to be extra vigilant. This 3-ingredient de-icer recipe is super cheap, easy to make, and will get you on the road in no time.

Homemade De-Icer Recipe

• 1 cup water
• 2 cups isopropyl alcohol
• 3/4 teaspoon dish soap

Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle and shake well.

Why this recipe works: This de-icer’s active ingredient is rubbing alcohol, which you can buy at drugstores for around $2.50 a pint. Also known as isopropyl and isopropanol, it has a freezing point of -128 degrees Fahrenheit, so it won’t refreeze once the windshield has been cleaned. Dish soap improves the spreadability of the mixture.

How to Use Homemade De-icer to Defrost Car Windows

This concoction is just as easy to apply to your car’s windows and windshield as it is to make. Keep a clean cloth handy to wipe excess spray off your windows; depending on how frosty your windows are, you might also need an ice scraper to coax the ice off the glass.

Step 1: Mix the de-icing solution.

Fill a spray bottle with two parts rubbing alcohol to one part of water.

Add ½ teaspoon of liquid dish detergent for every 2 cups of solution. Shake well. Label your de-icer so you don’t get it mixed up with your other DIY cleaners.

Step 2: Coat the windshield and windows with spray.

Generously spray the mixture onto the icy windshield and windows. Wait a minute or so as it softens the ice, or melts it altogether.

Step 3: Scrape away excess ice.

For extra-heavy ice on windows, you may need to do a little scraping. If that’s the case, use an ice scraper or another implement to clear away the thicker patches.

Step 4: Wipe the windshield clean.

Turn your windshield wipers on and with a couple good swishes, your windshield should be de-iced, clean, clear, and ready for some driving! If you’ve applied your mixture to other windows, use a soft cloth to wipe them clean. While isopropyl alcohol that’s been diluted as recommended here will not damage car paint, wipe down any areas of your car’s body that may have been dripped on, just to be safe.

Step 5: Prevent future visibility problems.

To keep your windshield wiper lines clean and clear of ice, mix 1 cup isopropyl alcohol into ½ gallon of windshield wiper fluid and fill your under-the-hood reservoir. Alternatively, you can purchase a de-icing windshield wiper solution. Either will keep your glass ice-free when you need to clean your windshield of sandy, salty snow-splatter spat up from vehicles ahead of you on roadways, and will help keep streaks to a minimum. Keep this de-icer in your car, along with other winter emergency supplies, so you’ll always have a clear view!

The post This Cheap, Homemade De-icer Recipe Will Clear Your Frosty Windshield in Minutes appeared first on Bob Vila.

There’s a simple reason why builders relied on steam radiators for decades and decades—they work! But every technology has drawbacks, and with steam radiators, homeowner complaints often center around noise. At times, with all that clanking and banging, you might wonder why the radiators didn’t come with earplugs. What causes that cacophony, and how can you usher in quiet? If you want to repair a radiator that’s making a lot of noise your home, here are a few things to know.

Why is the radiator making noise?

In a typical steam heat system, a single pipe extends from the boiler to the radiators. At the point where the pipe connects to a radiator, you’ll find an intake valve. This component performs two functions. First, it feeds steam into the radiator. Second, once the steam cools and condenses into water, the intake valve allows the liquid to drain out of the radiator and return to the boiler. At least, that’s how things are supposed to work. But water often gets trapped in the radiator, and when that happens, steam is blocked from entering. As the trapper water and blocked steam play a game of tug-of-war, they produce the delightful symphony that keeps you up at night. So aside from being an awful racket, a noisy radiator means that your system isn’t operating as well as it should.

What to Do About a Noisy Radiator

Tilt it toward the intake valve.

A properly functioning steam radiator does not sit perfectly level on the floor. Rather, it tilts slightly toward the intake valve. That positioning allows condensed water to flow out of the radiator, not by means of a pump, but through the force of gravity. Therefore, if your radiator starts getting noisy, the first thing to check is check whether the radiator remains tilted toward the valve. Use a level, and if you see that the radiator sits level or is tilting away from the valve, intervene. Try slipping a wooden shim or paint stirrer under the legs on the end opposite to the valve. A tilt of only five degrees or so should do the trick.

Tried-and-True Advice

“Growing up in freezing-cold Scotland, I often dealt with noisy radiators that would clank and bang at all hours. One simple trick I found helpful was using a long-handled screwdriver to gently tap the top of the radiator. This can help release trapped air inside, which is often the cause of the noise. Just be sure to tap lightly—too much force could cause damage. It’s a quick fix that worked for me, and might help reduce the noise in your own radiator.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Insulate the radiator pipe.

If you’ve checked the radiator and found that it’s tilting correctly, a different common problem may be at play. Often, steam condenses in the pipe before it even reaches your radiator. If that’s the case, the fix is to insulate the pipe, wherever possible, along its run up from the boiler. Pipe insulation couldn’t be much easier to work with, but the portions of the pipe most in need of insulation may be hidden behind a wall.

Clean or replace the steam vent.

Another possible cause of radiator noise: the steam vent. Try this: Close the intake valve so that no steam can enter the radiator. Next, remove the steam vent from the radiator, placing it in a bowl of vinegar. Let it sit overnight. Doing so may help dissolve any calcium deposits that have gradually accumulated over time. If that doesn’t work, purchase a new steam vent to see whether the replacement fares any better. Readily available at most home centers, a new vent only costs about ten bucks, so it’s worth a shot if all else fails.

Finally, a friendly reminder regarding the use of steam radiators in general: The intake valve should be either fully open or fully closed. Leaving the valve partially open can result in leaks and damage to floors.

The post How to Fix a Noisy Radiator appeared first on Bob Vila.

A burst pipe or clogged toilet can be a real headache. We depend on the plumbing in our home to function seamlessly so we have clean water to use; cold and hot water running throughout the house in each shower, tub, faucet, and water-using appliance; and the ability to remove wastewater. 

But when plumbing isn’t working, the problem needs fixing right away. Many homeowners try to address plumbing issues on their own, but that isn’t always a good idea. “While it’s great that homeowners are interested in tackling some plumbing tasks themselves, it’s important to know where to draw the line,” warns Al Fagundes, founder and CEO of A. Fagundes Plumbing and Heating Inc., with locations in Massachusetts and New Hampshire. “I’ve seen my share of DIY mishaps over the years, and some can be costly,” he says.

We spoke with Fagundes and other professional plumbers to ask what they think are the three biggest DIY plumbing mistakes they’ve seen and been asked to fix. They also offered tips to help homeowners determine which plumbing repairs are typically suitable for DIYers and which are best left to the pros. 

1. Over-Tightening Connections

A common mistake that DIYers make is tightening pipe fittings, supply lines, faucet connections, and toilet bolts too much, which can result in cracking pipes or destroying washers. “Many DIYers think that if a little tightening is good, then more is better, but this is often not the case,” says Fagundes. “Over-tightening pipe fittings, especially plastic ones, can actually damage them, leading to cracks and leaks. It can also strip threads on metal fittings, making them unusable.” This can ultimately cause leaks that could have easily been avoided. 

The goal should be to create a seal, not to crush the pipes. Fagundes offers a good rule of thumb: tighten fittings until they’re snug and then give them just a little bit more—usually no more than a quarter turn. Use Teflon tape or pipe dope on threaded connections to help create a seal and prevent seizing.

2. Incorrect Use of Sealants and Tape

Another issue occurs when DIYers use duct tape or epoxy fillers incorrectly. Danny Pen, a plumbing and HVAC contractor at New Era Plumbing & HVAC in Dracut, Massachusetts, often sees inexperienced homeowners wrapping Teflon tape backward or using too much of it. “In both of these cases, it causes leaks instead of preventing them,” he says. Pen suggests wrapping the tape clockwise two to three times so it tightens with the fitting.

Understanding which sealant to use for which application is also critical. Teflon tape is great for threaded connections, but it’s not appropriate for all plumbing situations, says Fagundes. “For example, it shouldn’t be used on compression fittings,” he explains. “Pipe dope (pipe joint compound) is another sealant that’s used on threaded connections, often in conjunction with Teflon tape.” Also, using too much sealant can be just as bad as using too little. Excess sealant can squeeze out and create obstructions in the pipes.

Finally, Alex Atkinson, plumber and HVAC technician with Super Brothers in San Jose and Sacramento, California, has walked into homes where residents have attempted to repair a burst or leaking pipe with temporary solutions like duct tape or DIY epoxy fixes. “While these might hold for a short time, they’re not permanent solutions and can lead to costly water damage if they fail,” he says. The temporary patches can easily give out, requiring you to replace entire sections of drywall or flooring due to water damage. 

3. Forgetting to Turn Off the Water Supply and Drain Pipes

Another big error is when homeowners forget to turn off the water supply and then drain pipes before they attempt to fix a plumbing issue. “It’s amazing how often DIYers forget (or don’t know how) to turn off the water supply before starting a plumbing repair,” says Fagundes. “This can lead to a real mess—water spraying everywhere, potential water damage to walls and floors, and even the risk of electrical shock if water comes into contact with electrical wiring.”  

How can you avoid a disaster? Before tackling any plumbing project, be sure to always locate the main water shutoff valve for your home and turn it off. For smaller repairs, like replacing a faucet, you might be able to use the shut-off valves under the sink or toilet.

It’s also critical to drain the pipes before starting any work on them, says Pen. “This means when they start unscrewing a connection, water still under pressure sprays everywhere, leading to soaked drywall, flooded cabinets, and a mess they didn’t see coming.” Always open a faucet downstream to relieve pressure before doing anything with your plumbing.

Plumbing Repairs Most Suitable for DIYers

When it comes to determining which plumbing repairs are DIY-friendly and which require a professional, consider complexity, risk, and tools, says Atkinson. Make sure you have the proper plumbing tools, including a toilet plunger, plumber’s tape, mini sink and drain plunger, and drain-cleaning auger. You’ll also want to find the proper instructions for each type of repair that you can follow easily. 

Here are some straightforward, quick plumbing repairs that can typically be handled as DIY projects:

• Replacing a faucet washer
• Unclogging minor blockage in a drain with a drain snake or a plunger
• Swapping out existing fixtures like faucets and showerheads
• Fixing a running toilet by replacing the flapper
• Tightening a minor leak under a sink (if it’s just a loose connection)

When It’s Time to Call a Pro

On the other hand, sometimes it’s best to hire a professional plumber to avoid DIY plumbing mistakes and ensure the job is done well. The typical cost range to hire a plumber is between $180 and $489, with a national average cost of $331. Costs will vary depending on the plumber’s expertise level, type of service, job complexity, supplies, labor, and geographic location.

Anything that includes cutting into pipes, working with pressurized water lines, or taking care of sewage should be left to a licensed plumber, says Atkinson. “If a mistake has the potential to cause significant water damage, mold growth, or safety hazards, it’s best to bring in an expert who has the training and equipment to handle the job properly,” he says.

A good rule to follow, according to Fagundes, is: “if it’s wet, call a pro.” If the problem involves a significant amount of water or if you’re dealing with drain lines or sewer lines, it’s generally best to call a professional plumber. “Water damage can be very expensive to repair, so it’s not worth the risk,” he says.

If you’re not sure if a plumbing repair is something you can handle yourself, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and call a licensed plumber. Here are some of the more complex plumbing tasks that often require a pro:

• Repairing burst or leaking pipes
• Relocating pipes
• Repairing or replacing water heaters
• Working on any plumbing behind a wall, under the foundation, or involving gas or sewer lines
• Addressing persistently low water pressure
• Figuring out the cause of mysterious leaks
• Addressing major drain clogs
• Installing smart toilets and luxury faucets and fixtures
• Performing any work requiring permits or adherence to local codes

The post We Asked Plumbers the 3 Biggest DIY Repair Mistakes to Avoid appeared first on Bob Vila.

If they’re properly sharpened, power hedge trimmers are a great time saver over manual trimmers for maintaining neat hedges and other landscaping. If your power trimmers are continually getting jammed and are chewing instead of slicing through branches, however, it’s probably time to sharpen the blades.

As is the case with lawn mower blades, knives, and other sharp implements, you can bring trimmers in for professional sharpening, but you can save money by handling this job yourself. Follow the simple steps below on how to sharpen hedge trimmers.

Why It’s Important to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers

Sharpening your hedge trimmers allows you to make quick work of that pruning job, plus it contributes to the health of your plants. “Letting your trimmers go dull is like trying to cut steak with a butter knife,” says Bryan Clayton, a longtime landscaper and CEO of GreenPal, a company that matches homeowners with landscaping services. He says with dull blades, “You’ll end up tearing your hedges rather than cutting them cleanly, which can lead to unhealthy plants prone to disease.”

RELATED: AUDIO: Bob Vila Explains How to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers

Best Power Hedge Trimmer

Black+Decker 20V Max Cordless Hedge Trimmer, $64.98 at Lowe’s. This Black+Decker tool can cut through branches 3/4 inch in diameter. It has a padded front handle and enough battery power to trim up to 3,000 square feet. 

To discover other top-performing tools in this category, read our tested guide to the best hedge trimmers,

How often should you sharpen your hedge trimmers?

While you don’t need to sharpen your hedge trimmers often, you’ll need to give them a little TLC every now and then. “A good rule of thumb is to sharpen them at the start of the season, then check them every 50 hours of use,” Clayton says. It’s worth the time, he says, since “dull blades make your job harder.”

There are telltale signs that your hedge trimmer has dull blades:

• Frequent jams: If branches and foliage are getting jammed in between the hedge trimmer’s teeth, it’s likely because the blades aren’t sharp enough to cut through the material.
• Ragged cuts: Your hedge trimmer should cut cleanly through twigs and branches. If they’re chewing through them and leaving ragged cuts, then the blades are dull

Types of Hedge Trimmers

Power hedge trimmers come in several types, including gas, corded, and cordless electric models. Whether you own gas hedge trimmers, electric hedge trimmers, or battery-operated hedge trimmers, you’ll use the same process to sharpen the blades.

Project Overview

Working Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour
Skill Level: Intermediate
Estimated Cost: $10 to $15

Before You Begin

Sharpening a hedge trimmer involves working around blades and filing, which can send metal shavings airborne. Take the required safety precautions before getting started. “Wear gloves and eye protection,” says Clayton. “Always unplug electric trimmers before you start, and for both types, make sure the trimmer is securely clamped down or held in a vise.” If you are maintaining battery-powered hedge trimmers, remove the battery.

How to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers the Right Way

Step 1: Clean the trimmer blades.

Hedge trimmer blades often end up clogged with sap and pieces of branches and leaves. Start by removing any debris that’s caught in the trimmer’s teeth. Spray the blade with a little WD-40 to break down any sap that’s stuck to the blade. Give it a few minutes for the solvent to work its magic, then use a cloth to wipe the blades clean.

Step 2: Misalign the trimmer blades.

If the blades are aligned over top of each other, you’ll need to misalign them to expose all the edges so you can access each one with the file. Use a flathead screwdriver to reposition the blades so that each one is accessible.

Step 3: Sharpen with a flat file.

Using your flat file, sharpen each blade individually.

• File in the direction of the cutting edge only. Don’t use a back-and-forth sawing motion, since a flat file is designed to remove material in one direction only.
• Filing using the correct angle is crucial to getting a sharp edge. Check your trimmer’s manual for the proper angle for the specific hedge trimmer.
• File with care. Removing too much metal from the blades can weaken them, making the trimmer unusable.
• Be consistent with the number of strokes you make on each blade to ensure they’re a consistent length when done. “Just focus on sharpening the top edge of each blade, maintaining the original angle, and whatever you do, don’t touch the flat bottom side,” Clayton says. “That’s your guide for keeping the cut accurate.” After sharpening one tooth, move onto the next until you’ve sharpened each one.

Step 4: Use a whetstone to remove burrs.

Run a whetstone over the sharpened blades to remove any burrs that formed during sharpening. Remember, the blades cut by sliding against each other like a pair of scissors, so removing burrs that can interfere with this action is crucial.

Step 5: Spray with resin solvent.

Sharpening your hedge trimmers also removes any corrosion protection that was on the blades. Before you put the hedge trimmers back into service, you’ll need to restore that protection by applying a resin solvent to the blades. Spray the solvent onto the blades and wipe off any excess resin.

Final Thoughts

While learning how to sharpen hedge trimmer blades isn’t difficult, there is some risk to doing it yourself. Over-sharpening the blades can weaken them, making your hedge trimmer unusable. “Sharpening hedge trimmers isn’t rocket science, but it does require a steady hand and a bit of know-how,” Clayton says. “If in doubt, taking them to a professional isn’t just playing it safe; it’s ensuring your tools last longer and perform better.”

The post How to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you are moving to a cold state for work, family, or a craving for crisp and cool air or nearby skiing, it’s important to note the weather-related adjustments you might face in your new home. Indeed, relocating to a cold state is a big shift, and there’s a lot to think about beyond buying a new winter coat, since you can expect your home to endure snowstorms, freezing rain, ice storms, and sleet during wintertime. “The moment you decide to move to a colder state, you are in for a completely new set of issues, but if you prepare well enough you will be quite comfortable,” says Charlie Hughes, CEO of ContractorNerd. 

Here are seven tasks involved in managing a home in a colder region; be aware of these before you pack your bags and head North or up to the mountains to experience your first intense winter. 

1. Winterize your home.

The first step to take when you arrive at your new home is to winterize it so you’re prepared for the cold months. Compared to maintaining homes in warm or temperate climates, “winter home maintenance demands different skills and routines,” says Erik Wright, owner and CEO of Buy My Home Nashville in Franklin, Tennessee. “My clients often express surprise at needing to winterize outdoor spigots, clean gutters before the first freeze, and check their heating systems monthly.” 

Other recommended winterization tasks your new home might need include sealing around windows and doors with weatherstripping; checking for cracks and reapplying caulk to any you find; removing hoses from their connections outside; and insulating the attic, walls, and basement.

2. Prevent plumbing problems.

Frozen or burst pipes are another potential problem that can cause stress and strain your bank account. “Frozen pipes are a nightmare,” says Judi Kutner, licensed realtor and a senior contributor at Virtual Staging in Seattle, Washington. “Insulate any exposed pipes, especially in unheated areas like garages or crawl spaces. If you’re buying a home, ask about freeze-proof faucets—they’re worth it. I had a client last year who didn’t think about this, and they ended up with a burst pipe in the middle of January. Not fun.” Heat tape or foam pipe insulation are good solutions to help prevent pipes from freezing and bursting. 

3. Identify roof and gutter issues.

Many people who have never experienced living with snow and ice don’t realize how it can damage their home’s roof and gutters. As ice and snow build up during freezing temperatures, the frozen layer can create ice dams that lead to gutter damage and roof leaks that require expensive repairs. Clear your gutters of debris before cold weather arrives and keep them clear. You’ll also want to remove icicles, apply a deicer, or install heated gutter cable to prevent icicles from forming in the first place, since they can damage the roof with all their weight. 

4. Protect trees and prevent damage.

Trees can also get damaged in cold environments. The weight of ice and snow on tree limbs and branches can cause them to snap off, damaging the tree and possibly nearby cars or structures. The branches can hit siding on your home, power lines, and the roof when they fall. To prevent this from happening, prune trees during the fall, remove cracked limbs in the spring. You also can have branches loosely cabled and braced before winter arrives. 

Clear branches of snow buildup in the winter if possible. But use caution; avoid shaking snow-covered or icy branches. Instead, gently remove snow by pushing the branch up slightly with an extension pole, and watch out for falling snow and smaller branches. If branches are covered in ice, leave them alone and let the ice melt naturally.

5. Prepare for higher heating bills. 

It’s probably no surprise that your winter energy bills will be higher to keep your home at a comfortable temperature when relocating to a cold zone. Depending on where you live, you might need to turn on the heat for up to half of the year. “In winter months, heating costs in cold states may be three times those of warmer regions,” says Wright. “I always tell my clients to budget more money for utility bills and consider adding energy-efficient windows and additional insulation, all of which usually pay for themselves in a few seasons.” 

6. Stock up on snow and ice removal equipment.

The biggest nuisance might be having to invest in several tools to deal with the snow and ice that accompany colder weather in many regions. This is especially important if your home faces North, which means your driveway and entry can stay icy for some time. “Snow removal becomes almost a part of your daily routine, and this is where a good quality snow shovel, ice melt, and a sturdy snowblower come in handy,” says Hughes. “We have to clear our walkways and salt our driveways.” 

Other must-have tools include a roof rake for snow removal and ice scrapers. You might even need to budget for professional plowing, sanding, and snow removal services, says Andie Fusco, a realtor with Four Seasons Sotheby’s International Realty in Stratton, Vermont. “Prices vary depending on the length of your driveway, whether it’s shared, and the amount and type of snowfall—wet, heavy snow takes more effort and money to clear than light, fluffy powder.”

7. Assemble an emergency kit.

Given the potential for winter storms, it’s good to always be prepared. After moving to a cold state, create an emergency kit in case you get stuck at home during a blizzard and/or lose your power. It’s critical to have enough equipment and supplies to shelter in place for up to a few days in the dead of winter. Items for the emergency kit include: a flashlight, batteries, first aid supplies, a battery-powered or hand-crank portable radio, blankets, sleeping bags, warm clothing, non-perishable food items, bottled water, medications, a fire extinguisher, and basic tools like a wrench and pliers.  

You’ll also want to have an alternative heat source or a backup generator. Invest in a space heater or wood stove and make sure your wood pile is stocked in case you need to use your fireplace to stay warm. 

The post 7 Things You Should Know How to Do When Moving to a Cold State appeared first on Bob Vila.

Q: The cabinet under my kitchen sink has been soggy lately. Could this be a sign of a leaking garbage disposal? If so, how can I repair it myself?

A: A leaking garbage disposal often goes unnoticed until you confront a sopping cabinet, a foul-smelling puddle, or an audible drip-drip-drip from the unit. The fix can be frustrating, too, because the leak can stem from a number of components in the system. Fortunately, with a little sleuthing, you can zero in on the leak and, depending on the exact location, stop the icky oozing and repair the component that caused it. Following this process will help you isolate and fix the link.

Prepare to find the leak.

Before testing the garbage disposal for leaks, unplug it at the wall outlet, and turn off the power at the breaker box to prevent electrical shock. Then insert a watertight sink stopper into your sink drain and wipe the unit dry with a clean cloth. In any handy container, mix a few drops of food coloring into a few cups of water, and pour the dyed water onto the sink stopper to help you locate the leak.

Investigate the source.

Using a flashlight, examine the unit for escaping colored water, which is likely to come from one of three places:

• the top, where the disposal meets the sink drain
• the side, where the dishwasher hose or main drain pipe connects to the disposal
• or the bottom of the unit

Inspect each of these locations while gliding a light-colored rag over the unit; the dyed water will readily show on the rag and reveal the location of the leak. If a leak isn’t immediately apparent, remove the sink stopper and pour a few more cups of dyed water down the sink drain, then check for leaks again. Leaks near the top of the unit are more likely to show themselves while the sink is plugged, while side and bottom leaks are more noticeable while the sink is unplugged.

If the top of the garbage disposal is leaking, re-seal and tighten the sink flange.

The metal sink flange that sits directly inside the sink drain is typically sealed around the top with plumber’s putty (a clay-like sealant) and then secured from under the sink with bolts. If the plumber’s putty deteriorates, or the bolts loosen, the flange can no longer form a watertight seal between the sink drain and the disposal, which could cause a leak at the top of the unit.

To reseal the leaky flange, you must first detach the garbage disposal:

• Start by loosening the screws securing the main drain pipe to the disposal, then loosen the screws in the metal clamp securing the dishwasher hose to the disposal and detach the drain pipe and dishwasher hose from the disposal.
• Loosen the screws in the mounting ring that connects the disposal to the metal mounting assembly beneath the sink, then pull down the disposal and carefully set it on a clean, dry surface.
• Loosen the bolts in the mounting assembly with a wrench, then pull down the mounting assembly and set it near the disposal.

Lift the sink flange from the top of the sink. Use a plastic putty knife to scrape off the old plumber’s putty around the top of the flange, then wipe off any putty residue with a damp rag. Scoop a palmful of plumber’s putty (available at hardware stores, home centers, and online) and roll it into an 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch-wide “rope” with a length roughly equal to the circumference of the flange. Wrap the rope of putty around the top of the flange like a collar, then insert the flange into the sink drain opening until snug. Re-install the mounting assembly and mounting ring (taking care to securely tighten the mounting bolts on the mounting assembly), then reattach the garbage disposal, drain pipe, and dishwasher hose in the reverse order you detached them.

If the side of the garbage disposal is leaking, tighten drain line connections and replace worn gaskets.

Two drain lines extend from the sides of a garbage disposal: a narrower dishwasher hose that connects the dishwasher drain pipe to your disposal’s dishwasher inlet, and the main drain pipe that connects your disposal to the sewer through an outlet in the wall.

If you spy a leak on the side of the disposal where the dishwasher hose meets the disposal’s dishwasher inlet, the problem could be that the metal clamp connecting them is loose. In that case, tighten the screws in the metal clamp with a screwdriver.

If the leak is on the side where the disposal meets the waste drain pipe, loosen the screws that secure the drain pipe to the disposal and inspect the rubber gasket inside the pipe—it may well be worn out. Replace the gasket and re-tighten the drain pipe screws.

If the bottom of the unit is leaking, replace the disposal.

Leaks from the bottom of the garbage disposal (often from the reset button) commonly indicate that at least one seal on the interior shell of the unit that protects the motor has deteriorated, or that the shell itself has cracked. These vulnerabilities can cause water from the sink to seep into the shell of the disposal and leak out of the base of the unit. In an old garbage disposal, one compromised internal seal is often accompanied by others, so your best bet is to install a new one.

Hiring a pro to replace the unit will run you $400 on average, including labor and parts, or you can install a garbage disposal yourself and save anywhere from $90 to $200 in labor costs. You should be able to get eight to 15 years of use out of a new garbage disposal. (Our researched guide to the best garbage disposals can help you research quality options.)

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Test the repair or replacement by running water through the drain.

Whether you repaired or replaced the leaking garbage disposal, you will want to test your work to make sure the unit is shipshape. Wipe the unit dry with a clean cloth, then unplug the sink drain (if plugged) and pour a few cups of dyed water into the drain once more. Use a flashlight to inspect the entire unit. If you don’t see a leak, turn on the power to the disposal from your breaker box and plug in the disposal at the wall outlet.

How to Prevent a Garbage Disposal From Leaking

Proper use of a garbage disposal can stave off future leaks:

• Remember to grind only soft foods; hard items such as bones, apple cores, or raw potatoes can dislodge or damage the internal seals.
• Run hot water through the sink drain before and after food disposal to keep solid fats from congealing (which can deteriorate the sink flange and cause leaks).
• Inspect your disposal for leaks at least twice a year using the dyed-water test. It’s important to catch and repair minor leaks before they lead to water-damaged sink cabinets or kitchen floors.

The post What to Do About a Leaking Garbage Disposal appeared first on Bob Vila.

The hardest part of fixing a roof leak? Locating the leak. Sure, it’s easy enough to spot water stains on the ceiling or mold on the walls, which are sure signs of a leak. But once water has penetrated the roof, it’s easily diverted by such things as insulation. Even though you may notice the evidence of a leak in the corner bedroom, the vulnerable point in your roof may be quite far removed from that part of your house.

For this reason, roof repair jobs typically begin with a certain amount of detective work. These tips for finding a roof leak will help you solve the mystery quickly and repair the leak before the damage to your roof, and your home’s interior, gets any worse.

Step 1: From inside the attic, inspect the underside of the roof.

Arm yourself with a flashlight and head up to the attic. Be careful up there: If there’s no proper flooring, step carefully from joist to joist. (If you step between the joists, you might put a foot through the ceiling of the room below.)

Once you’ve got your bearings, use the flashlight to examine the underside of the roof. Look for any areas that are darker than the surrounding roof sheathing. If it hasn’t rained recently, moist spots may be too difficult to discern. Mold, on the other hand, has a tendency to linger. If you encounter a patch of mold, which thrives on moisture, chances are you’ve found the vulnerable point in your roof.

Step 2: Follow damaged insulation back to the source of the roof leak.

The underside of your roof may be obscured by attic insulation, and that’s actually helpful for finding the roof leak. Insulation deteriorates more noticeably and more quickly than wood does. If you see damage on one section of the insulation, however, you must remember that the leak itself may be several feet to either side because it diverted rainwater from the source of the leak.

It’s best to carefully remove all insulation adjacent to part of the roof where you notice signs of a leak. That way, you can follow the path of the water from the damaged area all the way to the water’s entry point in the roof. (If you’re going to handle or work around insulation, it’s important to wear appropriate protective gear such as gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator mask.)

Step 3: Inspect the underside of the roof for perforations and vents.

Most noticeable to the eye are leaks caused by an object (for example, an errant nail) that has managed to pierce the roof. Failing any such obvious signs, inspect the roof vents next. These vents are typically near ridges or gable ends, or both. Over time, the seals around vents can gradually weaken and allow rainwater to seep in.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I’ve had to deal with a number of leaky roofs, and have found that most form not where there is a continuous flow of shingles, but where some utility or feature penetrates the roof: Plumbing vents, HVAC system vents, skylights, and chimneys are the most common. Chances are, a failing vent pipe boot or leaking chimney flashing is allowing water to enter and flow down the interior of the roof to the spot where it’s coming through the ceiling. If there’s roof penetration above the location of the leak on the ceiling, it’s likely the culprit.”

—Tony Carrick, Contributing Writer

Step 4: If the weather is dry, use a hose to simulate a downpour.

What happens if you’re desperate to find a roof leak, but dry weather has made your search more challenging? You can simulate a storm. This method requires two people: One person on the roof with a garden hose, and another person in the attic with a flashlight. Working in small sections, the person on the roof sprays the roof with water while the one in the attic carefully examines the underside of the roof for leakage.

By simulating a downpour, you can see firsthand how your roof withstands—or fails to withstand, as the case may be—conditions similar to those of a natural storm.

Step 5: Begin your roof repair.

Leaks only get worse. Act quickly once you’ve pinpointed the location of yours. Fortunately, in many instances it takes only a modest roof repair, like replacing a shingle, to fix the leak. If you don’t feel comfortable on the roof or if the leak seems extensive, hire a roof repair professional to do the work.

The post How to Find a Roof Leak appeared first on Bob Vila.

When it’s a challenge to capture a suspicious home issue with a conventional camera that relies on visible light, consider reaching for a thermal camera that can create an image using infrared radiation. These cameras work by detecting heat that’s emitted by objects and organisms. The heat reading is then converted into an electronic signal so it can create a thermal image that is displayed on a video monitor.

Thermal cameras can be used to identify differences in temperature across the detection field, which is one of the main reasons why thermal cameras are commonly used by home inspectors to help find hidden issues within the structure of a building. Find out more about thermal camera uses both around the home and in the garden with this informative guide. 

Our Recommendation: TopDon TC005 Thermal Camera at Amazon for $469.99
The TopDon thermal camera has the ability to detect a wide temperature range—from -4 to 1,022 degrees Fahrenheit—with an accuracy of +/- 2 percent, making it possible to identify exactly where heat loss is occurring and where excess heat may be building up, allowing homeowners to pinpoint hidden problems within a home. 

Locate leaks.

Leaking pipes and plumbing fixtures can cause a serious amount of damage to a home if they are left for an extended period of time, but in many cases, leaks can go unnoticed when they occur behind walls. They can even be difficult to spot with a borescope. However, if you use a thermal camera, you should be able to find the location of water leaks by detecting a difference in temperature around the pipes. This method can also be used to monitor the drying progress of an area where water damage or leakage has occurred. It’s essential for the health of a home’s structure to make sure building materials can fully dry. 

Detect heat loss.

One of the top uses for a thermal camera around the home is to detect areas where a home may be leaking heat, which leads to inefficient heating/cooling and increased energy bills. Home inspectors commonly use thermal cameras for home energy audits. They scan walls, floors, ceilings, windows, and doors to locate where the home may be losing heat, so that you can improve the energy efficiency of a home by patching holes and cracks, adding insulation, and sealing small gaps.

Identify plant stress.

The top thermal cameras can be put to use both inside the home and out in the yard to help determine the health of the plants in your garden. Thermal cameras can be used to detect plant stress or disease, making it easier to identify potential problems before they can spread to the rest of the garden. Having this information helps gardeners determine the cause of the issue and take the necessary steps to correct the problem, leading to improved plant growth and better yields. 

Find unwanted pests.

Another use for thermal cameras at home that often gets overlooked is helping track down pests both inside and outside the home. Using a thermal camera, you can detect areas of termite and ant activity, locate exactly where possums, rats, mice, and other animals may be in the roof, walls, or ceilings of the home, as well as find hidden burrows or nests in the yard. By locating these pests, you can then take action to remove any invaders before they can cause further damage to the property. 

Pinpoint electrical faults.

When there are electrical faults in the home electrical system, it can lead to fires and other potentially hazardous situations. By using a thermal camera, you can detect hotspots in the electrical system. These hotspots are typically due to overloaded circuits, faulty wiring, or other issues with the electrical components, so it’s important to take action as soon as possible to repair these problems to help reduce the risk of fires. Even if homeowners are unsure about the reading from the thermal camera, but suspect there is a problem, it’s a good idea to have a professional electrician inspect and repair the area. 

Inspect building structures and HVAC systems.

Homeowners and building inspectors can use a thermal camera when they are trying to determine why the electric bill is so high. The readings can identify any hidden issues within the home, like pinpointing where insulation may be inadequate or missing entirely. The thermal camera can also be used on the HVAC system and ducts to detect clogged filters, duct leaks, or components that are malfunctioning, making it easier for homeowners to take prompt action and prevent costly repairs. Additionally, thermal cameras can detect gas leaks that are otherwise invisible to the naked eye.

Assess outdoor heating and irrigation. 

Outdoor heating systems, like patio heaters, can be great for enjoying the outdoors late into the evening and during the colder months of the year. With a thermal camera, you can analyze the heat distribution to ensure your outdoor heating sources are evenly placed. Additionally, thermal cameras can be put to use on the lawn and garden to track where water tends to flow, allowing you to optimize your yard and garden irrigation for the best growth potential.

The post 7 Brilliant Uses for a Thermal Camera Around the Home and Garden appeared first on Bob Vila.

Most of us associate all-purpose putty, sometimes referred to by the popular brand name Bondo, with auto body repairs. But this two-part compound that consists of a resin and a hardener isn’t just for cars. You can use it for a broad range of quick repairs on masonry, drywall, wood, and fiberglass. It’s a great alternative to wood filler for making furniture repairs, fixing chipped trim, or even patching damaged hardwood floors. You can also use it for less common applications, such as replicating broken-off furniture trim or patching a dented front door. Ahead are nine common and uncommon uses for all-purpose putty. 

1. Scratched Furniture

Wood filler is what most people reach for when it comes to repairing chips and scratches on furniture. But all-purpose putty has several advantages over wood filler. It offers more structural stability, so you can use it for large gouges and deep scratches. Since it’s stronger than wood filler, it better endures daily wear and tear. And unlike wood filler, all-purpose putties like Bondo don’t have sawdust mixed in, so it’s easier to get a smooth finish. 

2. Small Automotive Dents

Probably the most common application for all-purpose putty is using it to repair small dents in your vehicle. It adheres well to metal (but not paint, so you’ll need to sand away the paint before applying it; then paint over it after). This repair involves filling the dent with putty, allowing it to dry, then sanding it smooth, so it’s even with the surrounding metal. Given that repairing even minor dents can cost hundreds of dollars, all-purpose putty offers an affordable option for repairing your car. 

3. Damaged Trim

The corner pieces of trim and baseboards can take a beating from furniture and feet. They also often pull apart as the house settles and wood trim expands and contracts. Often these gaps are too large or deep to repair effectively with wood filler. Plus, wood filler can also take a full day to dry. All-purpose putty is a better option. After mixing it with the hardener, apply it to chipped corners, dents, and any other damage. Give it about 15 minutes to dry, sand it so it’s uniform with the surrounding trim, then paint it to blend in. 

4. Chipped Hardwood Floors

All-purpose putty is also a quick and effective way to fill cracks and chips in a hardwood floor. Simply tape around the damage with a painter’s tape. Fill the gap using a putty knife, then remove the painters tape. Give the putty about 15 minutes to dry, then carefully scrape away any excess using a razor blade. Follow up with a wood floor repair marker kit to blend in the color of the putty with the surrounding wood. 

5. Cracked Concrete

While you’ll want to stick with concrete repair products for fixing large cracks and damage to concrete, all-purpose putty is a quick and easy way to repair hairline cracks that aren’t structural. The repair is simple. Use a putty knife to fill the crack, and then give it about 15 or 20 minutes to dry. Once dry, use an angle grinder to smooth the repair out so it’s even with the surrounding concrete. 

6. Dented Front Door

Metal front doors aren’t cheap, costing around $300 for a basic model and far more for elaborate front doors with glass panes, so repairing a dent in one with an all-purpose putty is a much better option than replacing it. “It has a pretty firm hold and works surprisingly well for patching or repairing any dents or cracks in metal surfaces,” says Carr Lanphier, CEO of improovy, a Chicago-based house painting company. The process is very similar to repairing a dent in a car. Rough up the area around the dent with sandpaper to give the putty something to stick to. Fill the dent with all-purpose putty, then smooth it out with a putty knife so it’s level with the rest of the door. Allow it to dry for about 20 minutes, then sand it until it’s flush with the door. 

7. Drywall Damage

Lanphier says he often uses all-purpose putty to repair drywall. It dries much more quickly than spackle, and you don’t need to prime it before painting it. “It works great, especially on painted surfaces like drywall just because you can paint over it and can even sand it down to get a more exact patch and flat surface for painting,” he says. 

8. Broken Furniture

You can make more advanced furniture repairs by using all-purpose putty to recreate trim and corners that have broken off. Press a piece of modeling clay or silicone caulk over a matching corner or trim piece that you want to reproduce. Allow the clay or caulk to harden, then fill with all-purpose putty. Once the putty has hardened, glue the piece onto the damaged area. Allow the glue to dry, then sand and paint for a seamless repair. 

9. Stripped-Out Screw Holes

Stripped screw holes can cause a real problem, especially on a door strike plate or hinges, or in other places where moving the hole isn’t an option. An easy fix is to fill that stripped-out screw hole with all-purpose putty, which dries hard enough to hold screws in non-structural applications. After applying, allow the putty to dry fully, then drill a small pilot hole into it to reestablish that stripped out screw hole.

The post 9 Household Repairs You Can Make With All-Purpose Putty appeared first on Bob Vila.

From sinks and appliances to counters and cabinet hardware, stainless steel remains popular in home kitchens, favored for its sleek look and durability. Sturdy though it may be, stainless steel appliances can unfortunately acquire unsightly scratches from everyday household use. Armed with the knowledge of how to remove scratches from stainless steel, however, it’s totally possible to minimize and even successfully remove these scratches altogether.

Follow the two sets of steps below on how to remove fine or deep scratches in stainless steel to improve the appearance of your kitchen, and refer to some helpful scratch prevention tips to keep your stainless steel clean and in peak condition for years to come.

How to Remove Fine Scratches From Stainless Steel

Look closely and you’ll see that stainless steel has brush marks on its surface. This is called the grain, a result of the stainless steel manufacturing process. Whichever scratch removal method or product you use, it’s essential to rub only in the direction of this grain. A common stainless steel maintenance mistake is going against the grain, which may create new scratches and potentially worsen existing ones.

Note: Do not use this scratch removal method on stainless steel that has a protective clear coat or synthetic surface applied, or else you may do more damage than you fix.

SUPPLIES

Stainless steel buffing compound
Microfiber cloths

Step 1: Prepare the stainless steel buffing compound.

Start with a liquid or powdered non-abrasive buffing compound you would normally use to clean stainless steel, like Bar Keeper’s Friend (in a pinch, you can even use whitening toothpaste). If your stainless steel cleaner of choice is cream-based, proceed to the next step. If you’re using a powdered stainless steel scratch remover, follow the label instructions for mixing until you have a paste roughly the consistency of toothpaste. When mixing in water, it helps to add it a few drops at a time in order to achieve the right thickness.

Step 2: Identify and buff out the fine scratch.

If possible, start by finding a smaller scratch in an inconspicuous spot on the clean and dry stainless steel surface. Apply a small amount of the cream or paste to a microfiber cloth and very gently rub it back and forth over the scratch, working in the direction of the metal’s grain. Continue until the scratch buffs out or diminishes in appearance.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When buffing out scratches, be sure to move in the direction of the stainless steel grain and don’t rub your buffing cloth in circles. I’ve used baking soda mixed with water to work out scratches, but it’s important to test whatever buffing agent you decide to use in an inconspicuous spot before buffing to ensure you don’t make scratches worse.

After buffing out scratches, I like to spray the stainless steel surface with distilled white vinegar and then wipe it with a clean cloth. I finish up by polishing the stainless steel with oil. I’ve used olive oil in the past, but you can also use stainless steel polish. To avoid scratches altogether, make a habit of gently cleaning your stainless steel to keep grime from building up and eliminate the need for heavy-duty cleaning.”

—Lauren Landers, Contributing Writer

Step 3: Wipe the metal surface clean.

Dampen a fresh microfiber cloth and use it to remove any remaining metal scratch remover residue in the spot where the scratch was, wiping in the direction of the grain. Fully dry the area with a clean, dry microfiber cloth.

Step 4: Repeat with all visible fine scratches on the surface.

If the above process for how to get scratches out of stainless steel produces satisfactory results, repeat Steps 2 and 3 on any other visible scratches in the metal. Continue to go with the stainless steel grain while buffing, and be sure to swap in new microfiber cloths as needed to avoid leaving excess buffing compound residue on the surface.

How to Remove Deep Scratches From Stainless Steel

For larger or deeper scratches on stainless steel that aren’t obviously affected by the above method, there’s still hope for a scratch-free surface. Stainless steel scratch removal kits are made for this exact type of job, generally containing a set of abrasive pads, a buffing compound, and blending agent. Unlike the process for removing fine scratches, scratch removal kits fix stainless steel scratches by working up from a coarser grit to a finer one to remove imperfections and restore the surface. Carefully follow the manufacturer’s directions included in your kit.

Note: Unless otherwise specified on the product label or appliance user manual, do not use any scratch removal kit on stainless steel with a fingerprint-resistant clear coat or other synthetic surface. Using the included abrasive pads directly on anything but stainless steel can cause further damage.

SUPPLIES

Microfiber cloths
Stainless steel scratch removal kit
Barry’s Ultra Shine

Step 1: Identify the deep scratch and make a first pass.

Open the stainless steel scratch remover kit and read the full instructions on how to buff out scratches, including any preparation steps and safety warnings. Find the coarsest abrasive pad in the kit and apply the included buffing compound as directed to clean, dry stainless steel. Using the prescribed number of strokes, rub the compound into the scratch along the grain.

Step 2: Wipe the work surface clean.

Rubbing in the direction of the grain, use a microfiber cloth to wipe off the compound as directed and take a better look at the scratch. If the scratch is no longer visible, skip to Step 4. If the scratch is still visible, proceed to Step 3.

Step 3: Continue to buff the scratch with increasingly fine pads (optional).

Switch to the next finest abrasive pad as indicated by the kit instructions, and apply more buffing compound if directed. Repeat the process of scrubbing, wiping, and evaluating the scratch, switching to finer pads as necessary and going with the grain throughout. Even if the scratch remains after using all of the kit’s included abrasive pads, don’t worry: The final touchup pass might still produce a noticeable improvement.

Step 4: Blend the scratch into the surrounding area.

Depending on your chosen scratch removal kit, it may include an extra chemical and soft pad in addition to the buffing compound and abrasive pads. If your kit doesn’t include this, however, you can purchase Barry’s Ultra Shine or a similar product separately and apply it with a clean, dry microfiber cloth.

Apply the finishing agent to the provided pad or cloth and rub it onto and around the scratch as directed, polishing with the grain of the metal. Stop and check the progress of the blending frequently. Decrease the amount of applied pressure gradually you go until the work area is sufficiently blended with the rest of the stainless steel surface.

How to Prevent Scratches in Stainless Steel

With that scratch on your stainless steel fridge or other kitchen surface removed, now is a good time to brush up on how to keep your metal surfaces looking pristine. Follow these tips to prevent scratches on your stainless steel from accumulating in the first place:

• Do not use abrasive cleaners, steel wool, or other rough materials when cleaning and polishing stainless steel. (For cleaners we recommend, read about our tests of the best stainless steel cleaners, or make your own homemade stainless steel cleaner.)
• Avoid stainless steel sink scratches by laying down a rubber dish mat at the bottom of the basin when washing metal pots and pans, especially ones made of cast iron.
• Cut meat, fruit, and vegetables on a cutting board to avoid stainless steel countertop scratches.

The post How to Remove Scratches From Stainless Steel appeared first on Bob Vila.

When you’re dead asleep and someone in your family sneaks downstairs for a late-night snack, the loud groan of a stair is jarring and annoying. Squeaky stairs are caused by wear and tear on the wooden staircase components that cause one wooden section to rub against another (or against a metal nail) and are not usually a sign of a serious problem with your home, but boy, they can be bothersome. It’s best to fix the creak before it gets worse.

Parts of a Staircase

Most reasonably handy folks can tackle a squeaking stair on their own. Before getting started, however, it’s important to know the correct terminology for staircase components; these terms are pretty standard no matter what type of stairs you have.

• Treads are the horizontal surfaces onto which your feet step.
• Risers are the vertical surfaces in between the treads.
• Stringers are the sawtooth-shaped boards running up the sides of the risers and treads that keep the staircase together and provide support. Stringers on interior staircases are sometimes hidden inside the drywall.
• Banisters are the handrails running the length of the staircase.
• Balustrades are the posts that support the banisters.
• Nose is the part of the tread that hangs over the riser.

How to Determine Which Part of Your Stair Is Squeaking

• Walk up and down the staircase, taking note of any squeaky steps.
• Mark the culprits with a piece of tape or a Post-it note.
• Stand in the center of each noisy step.
• Gently rock from side to side and then forwards and backwards to determine whether the squeak is coming from the back, the side, or the front of the tread. As a rough rule of thumb, squeaks from the front of the tread indicate it has come loose from its riser, while a squeak from the back or the side of the tread means it’s loose at the stringer.
• Once you’ve determined where the noise is coming from, pursue one of these ways of stopping it—or at least quieting it down.

Tried-and-True Advice

“A lot of the time, wooden stairs start squeaking due to fluctuating humidity levels, which cause the stair treads and risers to shrink or expand. For example, my basement is a little on the damp side, and this caused my stairs to expand a bit and start squeaking. To counteract this, I added a dehumidifier to my basement to keep the dampness down and this has reduced the noise. If your home runs on the dry side, you may want to add a humidifier instead!

Adjusting humidity levels and adding some extra nails to the risers of my staircase has made my stairs a lot less squeaky. But if you’re still struggling with noisy stairs after making repairs, adding carpeting or carpet runners can help too. Carpet won’t get rid of the squeaks entirely, but it will muffle the sound, and make your stairs feel cozier.”

—Lauren Landers, Contributing Writer

How to Quiet Noisy Stairs

1. Use lubricant to quiet the creak.

One of the easiest ways to muffle a creak coming from the back or sides of the tread is by filling the crack between the tread and the riser above it. While this won’t actually stop the two wooden pieces from rubbing together, the powder removes friction, thus stopping the noise.

1. Select a lubricant like powdered graphite or talcum powder. Don’t use an oil-based product, which can warp wood, turn sticky with dust, or leave things slippery if overused.
2. Wedge a piece of paper against the back of the tread.
3. Pour a little powder onto the paper across the entire width of the stair.
4. Use your finger, a tightly twisted piece of cloth, or a stiff paintbrush to work the powder as deeply as possible into the crack between the tread and the riser.

2. Screw down the treads.

If your stair is squeaking at the front, use screws to tighten the fitting between the tread and the riser with a few screws.

1. Drill three evenly spaced pilot holes across the front of the tread where it lines up with its riser.
2. Drill in three #8 screws, making sure to sink them slightly below the surface of the tread. Leaving a screw sticking up from the tread is a sure way to injure someone’s bare foot.
3. Once the screws are in place, use a bit of appropriately colored wood filler to hide the screws and fill in the slight indentations.

3. Nail into the risers.

Compared with using a lubricant, this method is a more permanent solution to squeaks that are coming from the back or side of a tread.

1. Make two small pilot holes on the side of the tread near the wall. They should be spaced about two inches apart from each other and be drilled at opposing 45-degree angles so that the nails you insert next are aimed away from each other.
2. Nail the tread firmly into its stringer using 8d or 10d nails, which are 2½ to 3 inches in length.
3. Repeat to create two more small pilot holes on the side of the tread near the balustrade.
4. Next, drive your nails into the pilot holes, directing the nails at a 45-degree angle as described. This tightens the tread to the stringer and, by creating a slight clamp, the nails won’t easily be pulled back out over time.
5. Use a hammer and a nail punch to drive the heads of the nails down so they don’t poke up above the surface of the wood.
6. Cover the repaired spots with wood filler or putty to hide them.

4. Stabilize creaky stairs from underneath.

Many interior staircases don’t allow easy access to the area underneath the stairs, but if yours does, you’ll get the best results silencing your squeaks by approaching them from below.

1. Source three small triangular wooden wedges known as glue blocks for each squeaky step. If you can’t find premade glue blocks at a home improvement store, make them yourself by cutting a 2-inch wooden cube in half across the diagonal to create two equal triangular pieces.
2. Apply wood glue to the two shorter sides of each glue block, and then firmly press the blocks into the right angle created by the meeting of the riser and the tread.
3. Position one block in the center of the step and the other two at opposite edges of the step.
4. Give each glue block a slight wiggle as you position it to push out any air bubbles.
5. Once the blocks are glued into place, secure them further by driving two screws into each block: one screw running horizontally into the riser and the other screw running vertically into the tread.

5. Drive screws through the carpet, or remove the carpet altogether.

Are your stairs carpeted, but still making noise? There are a few effective ways to quiet steps that are covered.

Remove the carpet.

One option is to lift up the carpet and either push it aside to put back into place, if that’s in your DIY wheelhouse, or get rid of it and replace it with new carpet or another flooring material.

If you’re permanently removing carpet from the stairs:

1. Starting at the top of the stairs, cut the carpet with a utility knife under the nose of the landing.
2. Work from side to side, using vise grips to pull the carpet free from the riser.
3. Cut the carpet into smaller sections as you go.
4. Fix the stair using one of the methods above.

If you intend to put the carpet back in place after you’ve made the repair to the stair:

1. Start at the bottom of the staircase.
2. Using vise grips, lift carpet as far as you need to to reach the squeaky stair.
3. Fix the stair using one of the methods above.
4. Reattach the carpet to the stairs.

Use a special tool for silencing the squeak on carpeted stairs.

This method involves using a drill tool specifically made for this purpose, such as the Squeek No More Kit. Use the kit to drill three screws into the front of the tread where it joins the riser as in method 2, above.

1. Position the included tripod device over the spot where you want to install the screw.
2. Insert the kit’s drill bit into your drill.
3. Position one of the special screws at the end of the bit.
4. Drive the screw through the carpet and down into the tread and riser. The head of the screw will still be sticking out of the carpet when you finish.
5. Use the tripod to snap off the head of the screw, leaving the remainder safely hidden beneath the carpet where it can’t hurt your feet.

Drive screws through the carpet.

If you don’t want to remove the carpet or buy a kit, you can drive small-diameter screws through the carpet.

1. Push aside the pile in the area where you intend to insert a screw.
2. Drill pilot holes.
3. Drive the screw into the base of the carpet, taking care to not snag any of the carpet fibers as you insert the screw.
4. Sink the screw as deeply into the base of the carpet as you can so no one scrapes their feet on the head of the screw.

The post 5 Ways to Fix Stairs That Squeak appeared first on Bob Vila.

Shellac is a versatile, nontoxic finish that enhances wood’s natural grain while adding smoothness without the plastic-like qualities of polyurethane or lacquer. Made from flakes of resin secreted by lacs (insects native to Asia) and dissolved in alcohol, most shellacs are clear or amber in color but can be tinted in a range of hues, from golden oak to dark mahogany. It’s readily available at home centers, goes on easily, and dries quickly.

Shellac isn’t an ideal wood finish for all situations. The finish can fade in the sun or dull over time, and it’s highly sensitive to water and high humidity. So while this less-than-durable finish can be repaired and retouched if necessary, it’s usually best applied to decorative wood items that won’t see a lot of wear and tear, rather than high-use furniture like a dining room table.

If you’re considering enhancing the natural beauty of your latest woodworking project, this step-by-step guide on how to shellac wood will get you started. A full, protective shellacking generally requires several thin layers, with a bit of sanding and buffing in between—a project that can often be completed in one afternoon.

Step 1: Prepare the shellac to the desired consistency.

Shellac is used in various concentrations, or “cuts,” that are mixed with denatured alcohol to determine the thickness of each coat. For a full-finish wood coat, a ratio of 2 pounds of shellac per gallon of alcohol is common and known as a 2-pound cut. A higher alcohol ratio creates a thinner mixture more commonly used as light sealer before staining. A higher shellac ratio produces a thicker blend that can mean fewer coats but can be sticky and difficult to work with.

Shellac can be made from scratch or purchased pre-made. If you’re up for the extra effort of making the mixture yourself, purchase shellac resin flakes and combine with denatured alcohol, using the 2-pound cut ratio as a starting point. You can add more or fewer shellac flakes to determine your own “cut preference” based on how the mixture is performing.

Pre-made shellac is sold by the quart or gallon, and usually has a high shellac ratio (3- or 4-pound cuts) which will result in thick coats. You can always thin out pre-made shellac by adding denatured alcohol. Shellac has a short shelf life, so purchase only as much as you will need for the job.

Step 2: Test the shellac on a piece of scrap wood.

Because shellac dries quickly, allowing no time to smooth out drips, it’s wise to test the consistency you’ll be working with before applying it to your project. Using a dry cotton cloth, rub some shellac onto a scrap piece of wood. If the shellac is too sticky to be wiped on smoothly, try adding a drop or two of mineral oil as a lubricant. (Mineral oil won’t affect the color or overall finish.)

Step 3: Sand the workpiece.

Sand the wood (220-grit sandpaper is appropriate for most projects) and wipe it with a tack cloth to remove any dust. Shellac can be applied with either a cotton cloth rag, a brush, or a combination of both. A good rule of thumb is to use a cloth to shellac wood if you’re covering a large surface area, and a brush for to finish tight edges and corners.

Step 4: Brush or wipe on the first coat of shellac.

Dip your rag into the shellac mixture and coat the wood using broad, even strokes and a generous amount of shellac. Try to avoid pooling or blotches, which will have to be sanded down later. Use the brush to finish tight areas and corners, doing your best to minimize brush strokes. While shellac dries to the touch almost immediately, wait at least 30 minutes before moving on.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When shellacking a piece with intricate carvings or detailed edges, I prefer to use a small artist’s paintbrush to apply the shellac to those areas first before coating the larger surfaces. This prevents pooling in tight spots and makes sure the detailed areas are evenly coated without getting too thick. Also, to make the process easier and to avoid drips, put your project on a lazy Susan or rotating turntable, which will give you to access to all sides without handling the piece, reducing the risk of smudges or uneven coats.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Step 4: Buff with sandpaper to smooth.

Sand any raised wood grain or uneven globs of shellac with 400-grit sandpaper. Alternately, use a piece of superfine (#0000) steel wool to buff between shellac layers.

Wipe away any white dust that accumulates from buffing. Examine the piece at eye level to identify spots where light does not reflect, which would indicate that the wood surface is not properly shellacked, and target those areas on your next coat.

Step 5: Apply more coats of shellac as required until you’re happy with the finished look.

At least three to four layers of shellac are required to achieve an ideal finish. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until the wood achieves a smooth, even appearance. After the last coat, you can leave the piece un-buffed for a glossy look, or buff one last time before applying a thin layer of non-silicone paste wax with a cloth for a satin finish.

How to Repair a Shellac Finish

If a shellac finish gets damaged, it’s easy to repair: Dab some alcohol on a rag and gently rub in a circular motion to remove the shellac from that area. Then follow the steps outlined above to shellac wood in just that area, sanding in between coatings, and building up until it is even with the rest of the piece, re-coating the entire surface once or twice if necessary. Scratches can also be repaired by using a fine brush to fill in low areas with shellac and then buffing then smooth.

The post How to Shellac Wood appeared first on Bob Vila.

Think about the beating your wood floors endure on a daily basis: high heels, pet nails, children’s toys, and shifting furniture, to name a few! Tough as wood floors may be, their finish is still susceptible to scratches and scuffs. Refinishing wood floors, the process of sanding floors down entirely to apply a new surface finish, is costly and really only necessary every few decades. But polishing with a product specifically formulated for your floors is an easy, inexpensive way to regain shine, even out imperfections, and extend the life of your handsome hardwood. All it takes is a flat-head mop with a microfiber cleaning pad and commercial wood floor polish, which comes in low- or high-gloss sheens to achieve your desired look.

Whether or not you should polish your floors, however, depends on their finish. Those with a protective surface—a waterproof barrier such as urethane, for example—will benefit from polish, but floors with penetrating finishes like tung oil or unsealed wood require wax instead of polish. Using the wrong product can cause a host of problems, from making floors too slick to dulling the finish, and impair proper refinishing down the road. It’s important to determine which kind of floor you have (our Step 1 in this guide on how to polish wood floors) before you dive in and cause damage.

Step 1: Test the finish on your wood floors. 

If you’re not sure what type of finish is on your floor, use a sharp knife blade to scrape off a tiny bit from an inconspicuous area.

• If the finish is smudged but no clear material is scraped up, your floor probably has a penetrating finish. Stop here, and do not polish these wood floors; these should only be waxed.
• If you see a clear material, your flooring likely has a surface finish. It’s safe to polish these wood floors. Still, be sure to test out the polish in a small hidden or inconspicuous location on the wood before tackling the entire floor.

Carpet, hardwood, vinyl, and tile flooring.

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Step 2: Clear and clean your wood floors of dust and dirt. 

Empty the room, removing as much furniture as possible, then clean the wood floor thoroughly to remove dust and dirt. Sweep or vacuum, then mop with a commercial wood floor cleaner or solution of a 1/4 cup of dish soap and 1 gallon of warm water to lift any lingering grime. Give the floors a final pass with a clean, water-dampened mop to remove any cleaner residue. Dry completely with a soft, clean towel.

Step 3: Polish the wood to a shine.

Begin in a back corner of the room, plotting a path that will have you end up near an exit, pour a small S-shaped amount of wood floor polish onto the floor.

Using a flat-surface mop, work the solution back and forth in the direction of the wood grain, smoothing out any air bubbles. Work in small areas (about 3 to 5 feet wide in either direction) to best control the amount of polish you’ve applied.

While you must make sure to completely coat the floor, thin layers will dry more quickly than thick ones, and you can always apply another coat if needed.

Note: Polish can stain drywall and baseboards, so take care not to make contact with these areas.

Step 4: Wait a day before replacing furniture.

Wait at least one hour before allowing light traffic through the room and a full day before moving your belongings back in and resuming normal use. To avoid scratching, take care not to drag or slide furniture; pick up each piece up and place them where they belong. Attach felt furniture pads underneath heavy pieces for extra protection.

Tried-and-True Advice

“Most of us focus on the type of product we put on our floors when preparing to polish them but the quality of the mop is just as important. Choosing the wrong mop leaves streaks on your floors or, at worse, causes scratches if the brush is too abrasive. I get the best results by using a high-quality microfiber mop. It’s soft enough that it won’t damage the floors and does a good job of spreading polish evenly without streaks. Also, don’t forget to clean the mop head in between polishings.”

—Tony Carrick, Contributing Writer

 

Step 5: Follow a few precautions to keep wood floors looking great, and you can put off your next polishing job.

Now that your floors look like new, maintain them by placing rugs at entry doors to prevent dirt from being tracked inside. If your kitchen has wood flooring, also place a rug at the sink to catch stray drops of water.

Stick to a regular cleaning routine, vacuuming weekly and giving the floors a deep clean monthly. Skip any homemade cleaning solutions that include diluted vinegar or ammonia on wood floors—all they’ll do is dull a surface-finished floor. Instead, for an all-natural approach, make a homemade wood floor cleaner, which features castile soap.

These measures will go a way to make preserve your wood floor’s shine. You may still want to repeat the polishing process a few times annually, as needed, but don’t exceed four applications per year.

The post How to Polish Wood Floors appeared first on Bob Vila.

While epoxy’s ability to make tight bonds between a variety of surfaces makes it a great solution for a wide range of repair projects, its two-part application makes it one of the messier adhesives to work with. Since epoxy often sets quickly once mixed, getting it off unintended surfaces can be a challenge. Fortunately, there are simple methods for removing epoxy, whether you’re removing it from wood, metal, or skin. Keep reading to learn the tricks to undoing this seemingly permanent glue.

What Is Epoxy?

Epoxy is an adhesive you can use to bond a variety of materials, including wood, glass, concrete, metal, and stone, making it one of the more versatile adhesives out there. (It can even be used to give old kitchen countertops a glossy update.) Plus, it’s cheap, creates a durable bond, and is easier on the environment than other glues and adhesives. Epoxy comes in two separate parts, a resin and a hardener. You have to mix the two parts just before applying the adhesive. Once mixed, the hardener transforms the epoxy resin into a hard plastic substance that creates a bond between the two materials you’re gluing together.

How to Remove Epoxy From Skin

Wearing disposable gloves is a good first line of defense when working on an epoxy project, but accidents can happen. If you do get some epoxy on your skin, remove it immediately before it cures using one of the following methods:

• Vinegar: Soak a paper towel or cloth with vinegar and stroke it on the affected area until the epoxy softens enough to peel off.
• Acetone: If the vinegar fails, apply acetone or an acetone-based nail polish remover, which can dissolve uncured epoxy. Pour some acetone onto a paper towel and apply it to the glue to remove it, then rinse your skin thoroughly. Acetone vapors can be strong, so use it in a well-ventilated space.
• Citrus-based hand cleaners: Commonly used for grease removal by mechanics, citrus-based hand cleaners can also remove epoxy from your skin. Pour a small amount directly on the affected skin and rub to remove the adhesive. Wipe off or rinse under warm water; repeat if necessary. After the epoxy is removed, thoroughly wash the area and use hand lotion to soothe and heal your skin.

Safety Tip: While epoxy coming into contact with your skin isn’t a major cause for alarm, the resin can be a skin irritant and cause an allergic reaction for some people. Consider wearing gloves while using epoxy if you’re concerned about the glue coming into contact with your skin.

How to Remove Epoxy From Plastic or Glass

Epoxy might provide a quick fix for repairing broken plastic pieces or sealing a cracked window pane, but it can be a pain to remove excess glue from these surfaces. Follow the steps below to remove it:

1. Soak a paper towel in isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and rub it on the surface until the epoxy loosens. If the alcohol isn’t effective, try using a stronger solvent such as denatured alcohol or paint thinner.
2. Using a scraper tool, gently pry the epoxy from the surface.
3. Once the epoxy is removed, use a clean, wet rag to remove any remaining solvents from the surface.

How to Remove Epoxy From Concrete or Wood

Finishing a garage floor with epoxy paint is a popular use of the product, but sometimes the resin can get in places it’s not supposed to go. Avoid using alcohol and paint thinners, which can damage or discolor wood finishes and cause pitting in concrete. Instead, try the methods below:

• Acetone: Apply the acetone to the area with a cloth and rub it into the surface. The idea is to get the acetone to surround and loosen the epoxy, making it easy to peel away. Give it about 5 minutes to soak in. Using a scraper, gently work the epoxy loose. Any excess acetone will evaporate.
• Heat gun: Pull on leather work gloves to protect your hands and hold a heat gun, set to about 200 degrees Fahrenheit, several inches above the affected area. Move the nozzle in small circles to heat the epoxy evenly and avoid creating burn marks on the concrete or wood. Once the epoxy has softened, use a scraper to remove it from the wood or concrete.

Tried-and-True Advice

“One trick I’ve found helpful when working with epoxy on small projects is to keep a small bowl of sand or baking soda nearby. If epoxy drips accidentally onto surface or your tools, sprinkling sand or baking soda over the spill immediately absorbs the excess and prevents it from spreading further. Once the epoxy has hardened, the gritty surface makes it easier to scrape off without damaging the material underneath. This tip saved me from ruining a DIY project!”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

How to Remove Epoxy From Metal and Hard Surfaces

The above removal techniques using acetone or a heat gun will also work on errant epoxy that dripped on metal or other hard, nonporous surfaces, such as metal door jambs or your favorite toolbox. If acetone fails, try the methods below:

• Chemical: Try a chemical adhesive remover, usually sold in hardware stores as sprays or liquids meant to be applied with a cloth. Be sure to wear gloves to protect your skin when using these chemicals and carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Spray refrigerant: Use a refrigerant spray on the offending epoxy to freeze it. After spraying the epoxy, it should become brittle, making it easy to chip away with a scraper. Spray refrigerant is also a dangerous chemical, so gear up with safety goggles and gloves and work in a well-ventilated area when using it.

How to Remove Epoxy From Fabrics

If you’ve found a dollop of epoxy on your work clothes, there is a way to remove the epoxy without ruining the fabric. Acetone or paint thinners may discolor or dissolve fabrics, while abrasive methods like scraping could easily damage the delicate weave of the material. That leaves heating the epoxy as the easiest way to loosen and peel it away: Dip the fabric in a pot of boiling water for a few seconds at a time, then lift it out of the water with tongs to gently peel away the epoxy. (Since it will be hot, wear rubber kitchen gloves or use cooking utensils instead of your fingers.)

Fabrics such as cotton and linen won’t be damaged by boiling water, but beware of melting synthetic fabrics or shrinking wool. For fabrics that cannot withstand heat, try rubbing with—or soaking in—vinegar before washing in cool water.

Epoxy Removal Tips

• Time is of the essence when attempting to remove epoxy. While it’s possible to remove epoxy once it’s cured, it’s much easier to remove it while it’s still in the drying process.
• The above methods are for removing small amounts of epoxy from small areas. If you’re trying to remove epoxy adhesive or paint from a large area, such as a concrete garage floor, then you’ll need to use a large machine, such as a grinder or industrial scraper.
• If you’re using a solvent to remove epoxy, try testing the solvent first on an inconspicuous part of the material to make sure it doesn’t damage it.

The post How to Remove Epoxy From Different Surfaces appeared first on Bob Vila.

When a puddle of water appears inside the refrigerator or on the floor near the appliance, it could be due to any number of issues. The good news is that the most likely scenarios are those you can easily remedy yourself, without calling for professional repair. Let’s run through the likeliest possibilities, and some DIY solutions for a refrigerator leaking water.

Possible Reasons Why Your Fridge Is Leaking 

The first thing to do when a refrigerator has water leaking on the floor is to clean up the water. The next thing to do is to try to identify the cause with some troubleshooting (having your owner’s manual handy will help). Here are common reasons why a fridge leaks and the easiest way to fix each problem.

1. The door seal is dirty or broken.

The seal around a refrigerator—the rubber that lines the entire door opening—is an important barrier to humidity and warmth. It keeps the cold and dry air inside and the hot, moist air out. A leveled refrigerator door will close and almost pucker to seal. If the door seal is damaged or if there are food crumbs in it, you won’t get a tight seal. This leads to extra condensation in the unit and to the refrigerator leaking water inside or even onto the floor.

Solution: Clean or replace the seal.

“Check the gasket for cracks or gaps,” says Heather Rubalcava, customer support manager for appliance brand Whynter. An intact seal also helps the unit run more efficiently, and maintaining it could extend the life of your refrigerator. KitchenAid recommends inspecting the door seal once a year to look for dirt or damage. If you live with kids, you might want to inspect it more often. 

• Open the refrigerator and/or freezer doors and inspect the entire rubber seal, as well as any corner gaskets.
• Test the seal by closing the door on a dollar bill or other paper. If you can pull the paper through easily with the door closed, the refrigerator might have a weak seal. 
• If the seal looks dirty, wipe it down well with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water.
• Close the door and make sure it seals tightly, so it resists a little when you try to reopen it.
• If the seal is still weak or if you spot cracks in the rubber. “Replace it if necessary to prevent warm air from entering,” says Rubalcava. Your user manual should include a part number.
• Wait to remove the old seal until you are ready to install the new one.
• If you aren’t confident about replacing the seal, call in a professional to replace it.

2. Your refrigerator might not be level.

If you’ve just purchased a refrigerator, moved into a new home, or recently remodeled your kitchen floors, you moved the refrigerator. Moving the appliance might have caused it to start leaking water. If your brand new refrigerator is leaking water, looks unlevel, rocks, makes rattling noises, or has doors that need extra help closing, it might need to be leveled. 

An unlevel appliance affects the systems and refrigerants that work together to keep refrigerators cold. Moisture could accumulate, or frost can build up on the evaporator coils, and it can leak out.

Solution: Level the refrigerator.

Follow these steps to level your refrigerator:

• Place a level on top of your fridge (not on an inside shelf, which might be uneven on its own) to confirm that it’s even from left to right and front to back (unless your owner’s manual calls for a slightly higher front). 
• To adjust the side level, remove the grill from the bottom front of the fridge and turn the legs or rollers according to the instructions provided in your owner’s manual. 
• Depending on the refrigerator model, this adjustment may require a wrench or screwdriver. 
• Place the level from front to back and check the level again (per your owner’s manual). 
• If the back legs or rollers also need to be adjusted, ask a friend to help since that will involve unplugging the appliance and pulling it away from the wall.
• If the floor is uneven, you might need plastic shims in addition to adjusting the legs or rollers. Leveling refrigerators and refrigerator doors on uneven surfaces can get trickier. Tuck a shim under the leg and gently tap it closes the gap between the floor and the leg. Check the level again and if that side is still low, tap the shim in more in tiny increments or find a slightly thicker shim.

3. The defrost drain is blocked.

Fortunately, having to defrost a refrigerator is a task that owners of newer refrigerators won’t have to perform. However, a blocked defrost drain—which could be caused by a food particle, a stack of frozen dinners, ice, or some combination—can cause your appliance to work overtime. According to Whirlpool, the defrost drain is the most common tube to have a blockage. That can lead to water pooling inside the compartment. If not addressed, the water can leak through the door’s bottom seal and cause water from the refrigerator to leak onto the floor.

Solution: Unblock the defrost drain.

Stop the leak by unclogging the defrost drain. On most refrigerators, the drain is accessible at the inside back of the freezer. 

• Open the freezer and make sure that nothing is blocking the drain along the back wall.
• If it’s obstructed by items in an overpacked freezer, move things around until air can flow freely, and then give it a day or two to see if the issue resolves. 
• If puddles persist, something smaller (like crumbs or ice) might be the cause.
• Transfer your food from the fridge and freezer to a mini fridge or chest freezer and unplug your refrigerator. 
• Remove the plastic plate that’s over the drain hole (your appliance manual may have tips for this) and use a turkey baster or funnel to flush warm water down the defrost drain. 
• This should clear the drain of debris and allow your unit to function normally once more.
• Help prevent future blockages in an overcrowded freezer by organizing its contents.

4. There’s a problem with your water supply line.

A refrigerator water leak might start with either the plastic water supply line inside the refrigerator or the main supply line from the wall. One clue that this is the cause: Water is pooling inside the refrigerator, along with halted or limited ice production, or if water flow is slowing when commanded at the fridge door.  According to Wesley Sirios, Frontdoor virtual appliance expert, “Ice complaints are the most common issues with refrigerator brands today.” These include no ice or not enough ice, which could indicate a blocked line to the dispensers. Frequent opening and closing can cause lines to freeze. 

Solution: Look for ice in water lines.

• First, move your perishables to a cooler or another freezer while you inspect the plastic line to the ice maker. 
• According to LG, your first step should be to check the setting for your freezer temperature. If set below 0 degrees Fahrenheit, raise the temperature and see if this stops the problem.
• Inspect the inside supply line for blockages from ice or debris.
• Turn off your icemaker, then unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply line (clockwise) that enters the back of the fridge. The valve is either underneath the nearest sink or in the basement.
• Pull the refrigerator from the wall and look for a transparent type of clog in the plastic line that connects to your ice maker and water dispenser inside or along the back of the unit.
• Either leave the refrigerator off for about an hour or two so that a small ice clog can thaw or carefully use a hair dryer or heat gun to thaw the ice in the water line before turning the supply back on and checking water flow and leakage. 
• Check the line for any signs of damage or kinks before returning perishable items. If you see cracks, refer to your user’s manual to determine how to replace the line or call a pro to do the repair.

5. The main water supply line is cracked or loose.

Water under the refrigerator and water coming from the back could indicate a loose connection or other issue with the main water supply line at the back of the refrigerator. Again, low (or no) water pressure to the icemaker/water dispenser could be a clue, as is water pooling on the floor under and water flowing toward the back of the unit.

Solution: Inspect the main water supply line.

The cause of water leaking could be an issue with the main water supply line. This fix requires unplugging your refrigerator and pulling it away from the wall to get to the line and connections at the back, so you may need to ask a friend to help. Follow these steps to fix it.

• Unplug your refrigerator and pull it away from the wall to get to the line and connections at the back. 
• Look for water from the refrigerator dripping or collecting along the exterior of the hose. 
• Frigidaire suggests using a dry paper towel to wipe the line, the connection into the refrigerator, and the main water connection and valve to determine if they are wet. 
• Check all of the connections to ensure the tubing is firmly inserted into the fittings and that there are no kinks. 
• Check for loose fittings and tighten them, as well as all connections.
• If you cannot find the solution or fix the problem, contact an appliance repair professional. 

6. The drain pan needs replacing.

If it still looks like your fridge is leaking water from the underside, the drain pan might be the cause. This oft-forgotten refrigerator part catches and holds liquid from normal condensation. Though the water typically evaporates as the unit cycles, a crack in the drain pan could cause water running into it to leak out. 

Excess humidity also can cause extra water to build up inside of a refrigerator. Eventually, the water drains down to the pan. The pan could fill up, causing a leaking fridge. 

Solution: Check the drain pan.

It’s helpful to refer to your refrigerator model’s instructions or diagrams before looking for the pan. For example, GE Appliances notes that drip pans on models from 1987 forward do not have easily accessible drip pans.

• If your model has a removable drain pan, look under your fridge and remove the kickplate or grille, using a screwdriver if necessary.
• Pull out the plastic drain pan housed there. Most are located under the refrigerator at the front or back. Refer to your refrigerator owner’s manual for a diagram of the pan and instructions for its removal.
• A completely empty drain pan could indicate a crack, since they should always have some water inside.
• If the pan seems overly full, especially if you live in a humid environment, look for water inside the refrigerator.
• If humidity appears to be the problem, check and replace the door seal if necessary, and look for ice build-up on vents. Try not to open the door as often on humid days, and consider placing a dehumidifier near the refrigerator.
• Check for cracks in the plastic pan; reinstall if it has no leaks. Replace it with the appropriate manufacturer part if it is damaged.
• In models with inaccessible pans (that might require removing a condenser to reach, for example), contact an appliance repair professional.

7. The water dispenser is broken.

If the water dispenser on the door of your refrigerator is dripping or water pools at the bottom of it, the problem might be in the lines. Air in the line or a blockage can affect water flow to the ice and water dispensers. The water dispenser also will drip if the inlet water valve is not shutting as it should. 

Solution: Inspect the dispenser and filter system.

If you have already checked the water lines supplying the dispenser, try these steps to determine the cause:

• Check the water pressure of your home at the kitchen faucet. If it is too low, the dispenser will drip. If that is temporary, the dripping should stop. Chronically low water pressure could require a fix by a plumber.

• Try to find where the leak begins, such as droplets forming at the tip of the dispenser. If the valve appears to malfunction or if it is loose, it might need to be replaced.
• Also check the ice dispenser to see if frost or ice are clogging the chute. Look for damage on the dispenser door.
• Look for any damage to the controls or switches that send signals to the dispenser. Although the fix likely requires an appliance professional, you can at least look for possible damage.
• Try dispensing a few quarts of water to help clear air from lines and then see if the leak continues. While dispensing, note the water flow.
• KitchenAid recommends removing the system’s filter and running water without it to see if the flow increases noticeably. If it does, replace the filter, which could be clogged or installed wrong.

 8. Excess frost is building up.

According to GE Appliances, almost all refrigerators manufactured today have an automatic defrost system. This system produces some of the drainage discussed in the causes of a refrigerator leaking water that are outlined above. If the defroster is not working as it should or you have a model with manual defrost or partial automatic defrost, you might need to address the frost built up in the compartment.

Solution: Defrost the appliance.

You might need to defrost your freezer. If manual defrost is required, GE Appliances suggests doing so when frost has built up to ¼ inch to ½ inch of thickness. Check your product manual for instructions on using any built-in defrost functions and for troubleshooting or correcting frost buildup. In general, here are the steps commonly used to fix this issue.

• Turn the temperature control dial to its coldest setting about 6 hours before you plan to defrost it. This ensures that frozen food is as cold as possible before you remove it. 
• Unplug the freezer or disconnect its power.
• Remove the frozen food, and insulate it with newspaper and a blanket, or store it in a cooler or cold area.
• You may have to remove the drain cover and empty the drain pan before beginning. See these tips from Amana for defrosting models with or without a drain system. 
• Place an uncovered pan of hot water in the freezer to speed defrosting. Avoid using ice picks, knives, or other sharp tools to chip away ice.
• Use paper towels or a sponge to wipe down the walls as ice melts.

Final Thoughts

If you see water pooling in or near your refrigerator, the fix could be as simple not lingering in front of open refrigerator doors, or opening the refrigerator less frequently. Other causes relate to clogged water supplies, clogged defrost drains, or damaged or clogged parts like water dispensers or the door seal.

Always begin by referring to the manufacturer’s literature for your refrigerator model; most owner’s manuals include some troubleshooting advice. Tackle the solutions above that you’re comfortable addressing. And though smart refrigerators might seem too high-tech to fix on your own, Sirios says owners can correct most problems. “All the manufacturers offer toll-free numbers, where an owner can reach support agents ready to help,” says Sirios. If it is too difficult to determine the cause or too overwhelming to move and unplug your refrigerator, call an appliance repair professional. Depending on the cause and age of the unit, it might even be time to replace your refrigerator.

The post Why Is My Refrigerator Leaking Water?  appeared first on Bob Vila.

If your snow blower has gathered dust since last winter, it might not start when you need it this winter season. Like all motorized equipment, snow blowers require periodic maintenance in order to operate efficiently. Assuming yours ran well when you last used it, there’s a good chance the problem is something minor that you can fix yourself.

Before trying the tips below to fix a snow blower that won’t start, pull out your owner’s manual (or download a copy from the manufacturer’s website). While virtually all snow blowers feature the same components—valves, filters, gas tanks, carburetors, fuel lines, and switches—their configurations vary by brand, so the manual will help you locate and identify them. 

“It’s good to start with the basic controls and function of the machine,” says Wes Bollingmo, Channel and Product Support Manager at Toro. “Is something moving that shouldn’t? Is something not moving that’s supposed to? Are the tires inflated to the proper psi?” 

If you don’t already have them on hand, all of the required tools for the following fixes can be found in any auto-supply store. 

Make sure all switches and valves are in the correct starting position.

Today’s snow blowers have many switches, buttons, and valves that must all be in the correct position for the machine to start. “Verify cables and controls are adjusted to the specifications outlined in your manufacturer’s operator manual,” Bollingmo confirms. Your manual may call for the throttle to be in the “High” position, the fuel shut-off valve in the “Open” position, the choke in the “Full” position, and the run switch set to “On.” 

“One of the most common mistakes on start-up after storage is the fuel valve,” says Bollingmo. “If you are properly prepared for storage, there is a good chance the fuel valve has been shut off. Make sure it is turned to the ‘on’ position prior to use.” 

Check the safety key.

Just like a car, a snow blower has a key that must be inserted and engaged in order for the blower to start. If you’re having trouble starting your snow blower, Bollingmo suggests you ask yourself, “Is the safety key installed? Is the key in the ‘on’ position?” Sometimes in the rush to get going, it’s easy to miss the simple things. 

Drain and replace old gas in the tank.

If your snow blower has sat idle for months, the gas may have developed gummy residue, which can make starting the machine difficult. Siphon out the old stuff with a small siphon pump, and then dispose of the gasoline. Fill the tank with fresh gas and try starting it again.

Add fuel stabilizer to the gas tank.

Even if you’ve drained and refilled the gas tank, residue from the old gas could be clogging the carburetor. To dissolve it, you’ll need a fuel stabilizer such as STA-BIL, a gasoline treatment product that helps liquefy residue.

Add fuel stabilizer to the snow blower’s gas tank at the rate specified on the container, and then try to start the machine. Even if it doesn’t immediately start, keep cranking by pulling the starter cord repeatedly to help work fresh fuel and stabilizer through the carburetor.

If the snow blower still won’t start, wait an hour or two to allow the fuel stabilizer more time to dissolve residue, and then try again.

Prime the engine to force fuel into the carburetor.

Gas engines are often slower to start in cold weather, so your next move is to give it a little boost of fuel. First, prime the engine by pressing the flexible primer bulb, a small rubber or silicone bulb located on your snow blower near the carburetor, three to five times. This will force a small amount of fuel into the carburetor, where it can more easily ignite.

Immediately after priming, try to start the blower. If it hasn’t been operated for months, it could take three or four attempts before it kicks on.

Check the oil.

Check the oil next, advises Bollingmo. Ensure the snow blower is on a level surface, and then locate the oil dipstick. Remove it, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and then pull it out again. Inspect the oil on the dipstick for both quality and quantity. If the blower is low on fuel, add more. If the oil is dark or burnt, it may be time to replace it.   

Clean or replace the spark plugs.

Three things must be present in order for your snow blower to run correctly: fresh fuel, the proper amount of compression in the engine, and a spark to ignite the fuel. To satisfy the third requirement, your lawn mower’s spark plugs must be in working order. If your machine refuses to start up properly, try cleaning it or replacing the spark plugs. And don’t forget to reconnect the spark plug wire, Bollingmo cautions. Here’s how to clean spark plugs:

1. Use a socket wrench and a spark plug socket to remove the plugs.
2. Clean any built-up carbon deposits from the electrodes, located on the threaded end of the spark plugs. To do so, use a carburetor cleaner and a wire brush.
3. Dry the plugs and reinsert them.
4. Reconnect the spark plug wire.

If the snow blower still won’t start, the spark plugs may be beyond repair. Inspect the porcelain sleeves for cracks. If you find a crack, replace the spark plug with a new one.

Examine the fuel line for damage.

The fuel line, which runs from the gas tank to the carburetor, should be flexible and pliable. Over time, fuel lines can harden, and a brittle line is prone to leaking fuel, either from a crack or around the connections where it meets the gas tank and the carburetor. A leak can prevent fuel from reaching the carburetor and keep the snow blower from starting. If the line is hard, cracked, or kinked, replace it with a new one.

Clean the carburetor.

If none of the above strategies have gotten your snow blower running, you may need to clean the carburetor more aggressively to dissolve gunk and residue. A carburetor’s purpose is to combine air and fuel in a precise ratio for efficient combustion, so if it’s clogged with residue, it can’t do its job.

1. Check your owner’s manual for instructions on how to access the carburetor, located beneath the air filter. 
2. Remove the air filter cover and the air filter.
3. Look at the carburetor (a metal case with a cylindrical opening).
4. Use a carb cleaner, a solvent that comes in an aerosol can with a straw that fits on the nozzle, to deliver a forceful shot of gunk-dissolving spray directly into the carburetor.
5. Look for the air-intake valve. It’s an open cylindrical valve near where the air filter was connected to the carburetor.  
6. Spray the carb cleaner inside the air-intake valve (instructions on the can will specify how much to use).
7. Replace the air filter and filter cover and then try to start the snow blower.

Call a service technician.

Troubleshooting beyond these steps may require dissembling the machine. “When you get to a point where you are no longer confident in performing a repair or are not sure where to start, you should consult a professional,” says Bollingmo. “The stakes are too high for an individual to make guesses when repairing. Improper repair could result in a snow blower that doesn’t work properly. This can cause costly repairs to the unit or property, and even worse, injury.”

If your snow blower is still under warranty, contact the manufacturer or the store where you bought it for instructions on how to proceed. If it’s an older machine, take it to a small engine repair shop. Alternatively, stores that sell lawn mowers, snow blowers, rototillers, and other small equipment often also offer repair and maintenance services. Having a service technician repair your snow blower could run anywhere between $75 and $300—sometimes as much as it would cost to replace it with an inexpensive new model—depending on the extent of the problem.

If repair estimates wind up on the higher end of that range and your machine has quite a few years on it, now might be the time to upgrade. Check out our tested guide to the best snow blowers for key considerations to choosing your next outdoor tool, and recommendations at all price points.

Final Thoughts

When it comes to snow blower health, Bollingmo cites Benjamin Franklin’s famous adage: “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” and he then adds, “That stands true for outdoor power equipment storage practices.” He suggests careful snow blower maintenance at the end of each season to ensure it’s ready to go the following winter. “If your gas-powered snow blower was correctly prepared for storage,” he says, “you will be ahead of the game,  and the next snowstorm!”

The post Snow Blower Won’t Start? Try These Troubleshooting Tips appeared first on Bob Vila.

Covering your wall with a large floor-to-ceiling mirror seemed like such a good idea back in the 1980s, but a lot has changed in the past 40 years. Today, that expansive feature can really date an interior. Homeowners are even looking to do away with large, unframed mirrors in the bathroom that span the wall from countertop to ceiling for something with more shape and personality.

The good news is that, ripping out a glued-on wall mirror and patching the wall underneath is a DIY that patient homeowners can do so themselves. The wall repair work can range from patching divots to skim coating and sanding the entire wall, depending on how carefully you’ve removed the mirror and adhesive.

3 Ways to Remove a Mirror That’s Been Glued to the Wall

These are the three methods for taking down a wall mirror that’s been mounted with glue. The solutions range from slow and neat to quick but dangerous and messy:

1. Saw and slice.

Starting at an outside corner, you slide a wire saw between the wall and the mirror and work the saw back and forth to cut through the adhesive. This method requires a lot of physical effort and can be frustrating because the wire clogs easily with adhesive.

2. Smash and grab.

This method involves using a hammer to smash the wall mirror, and then using a hair dryer and a 3-inch putty knife to pry off the remaining adhesive portions. This is the the fastest removal method, but it’s also the most dangerous and leaves the biggest mess. Even with careful vacuuming and cleanup, you may find glass pieces in the room months after the fact.

3. Heat and pry.

This method involves heating the glass tile with a hair dryer in order to soften the adhesive behind it, then gently prying the tile off the wall. Though this method takes the longest, it results in the least glass breakage and removes the most adhesive.

We recommend using the hair dryer method because it leaves your wall in the best shape, and saves you time during the patching phase. See below for step-by-step instructions for removing a wall mirror using this method. Plan to set aside a full day for your work.

Using Heat and a Putty Knife to Remove a Wall Mirror

Step 1: Wear personal protective equipment and clothing to prevent injuries.

Dress in long sleeves, long pants, and work boots to protect skin and feet from any falling glass. Wear heavy leather work gloves and eye protection at all times, from start to final cleanup.

Step 2: Prepare your work area for easier cleanup later.

Spread a heavy canvas drop cloth below the tiles, extending it far as possible into the room to catch any shards of glass. Relocate a metal garbage can to your work area and plan to empty it often throughout this process—glass is heavy, so you won’t want to wait to haul it all out at the end!

Step 3: Cover the wall mirror tiles with self-adhesive contact paper.

Peel off the back of a self-adhesive shelf or drawer liner and apply the sticky vinyl film across the mirror, pressing it firmly against the glass. This should hold broken pieces together and greatly reduce the risk of flying glass. Plus, it provides a safer working environment and faster cleanup.

Then, if you are in fact dealing with tiles and not a single stretch of unframed mirror, slice around each tile with a utility knife to separate the tiles.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When I was removing a large, glued-on wall mirror, I realized how important it was to have extra support in case the mirror suddenly detached from the wall. Before starting, I positioned a sturdy step ladder sideways in front of the mirror, and put a thick towel over it to act as a padded barrier. This setup gave me peace of mind, knowing that if the mirror came loose unexpectedly, it wouldn’t fall to the ground and shatter.

I also asked a friend to help, which made a huge difference. Having an extra set of hands to steady the mirror as I worked made the process much safer and more manageable. Taking these precautions can save you a lot of stress and prevent potential accidents.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Step 4: Heat and pry the tiles off.

Start in an area (either a side or corner) where you will have the most room to wedge a large drywall knife between the wall and the mirror. Pick a side of the mirror that doesn’t butt up against a wall or countertop. Then, heat one entire glass tile or, on a large bathroom mirror, the area closest to the prying edge with your hair dryer set on high heat for a few minutes so that it warms the adhesive behind the mirror.

Slide a 3-inch putty knife behind the tile and move it around to help you locate the adhesive. Every installation is different, but glue typically goes on in five blobs per tile—one near each corner, and one in the middle of the glass—and not immediately around the edges because that would have risked adhesive bleeding out the seams. Once you’ve hit the patch of adhesive, then partially slip a 6-inch drywall knife slightly under the glass tile to start separating it from the wall enough to insert a small pry bar.

Carefully wedge the pry bar in near one adhesive area, and gently pry to force the tile out slightly. If you pry against the drywall knife rather than the wall, you’re less likely to scrape, scuff, or otherwise damage the wall behind the mirror with your tools. Add more heat to soften the glue as necessary.

Repeat at each adhesive location until you feel the entire tile has loosened. Once you pry it up enough to get your fingers under, you can grab its edges (carefully) with your hands and pop it off. From that point on, after you’ve established what pattern the glue went on in during the installation, heat the mirror only in the area directly above the adhesive. That’ll speed up the project.

Step 5: Remove adhesive that didn’t come off the wall with the mirror.

Inspect the wall that the mirror was on for remaining adhesive. Use the hair dryer and the 3-inch putty knife to scrape away all remaining adhesive, even if it tears off the drywall paper. You can patch that in the next step.

Step 6: Repair the wall.

Partially patch the drywall with lightweight, fast-setting joint compound like Easy Sand 45. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for application.

Forty-five to 90 minutes later, after the setting compound has hardened, apply a layer of topping compound. Why switch? A topping compound is easier to spread or “feather out” with a knife and sand than fast-setting compounds. Again, apply and let it dry fully for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer. Then, sand the wall in full.

If the surface looks terribly uneven, skim-coat the wall with a thin coating of lightweight joint compound and sand when dry.

With all mirror and adhesive removed and imperfections filled, your repaired wall is ready to prime the entire wall with a high-quality drywall primer and paint.

The post How to Remove a Wall Mirror appeared first on Bob Vila.

A hardworking washing machine may stop draining mid-cycle for a number of reasons, such as a kink in the drain hose, a clog of lint or fibers there, or a rogue article of clothing stuck in the drain pump. Fortunately, these kinds of washer mishaps are fairly simple to fix. In fact, the most annoying part of the process may be figuring out how to drain a washing machine of all the water in its drum so that you can avoid a mess during repairs.

Your first impulse may be to open the door and collect as much water as possible with a bucket, then sop up the rest with towels. But the smarter approach, whether you have a top-loading or front-loading washing machine, is to siphon the water through the drain hose directly into a bucket. Ahead, the know-how you need to tackle the task quickly and neatly, without dousing yourself or the floor in the process.

How to Drain a Top-Loading Washing Machine

Step 1: Turn off the power.

Switch the power button on the machine off, if your model has one. Unplug the washing machine from the power source. Duct tape the power cord to the top of the machine to keep it from getting wet or getting caught under the machine.

Step 2: Locate the drain hose and water supply hoses.

Pull the washing machine away from the wall, if necessary, to access the drain hose. The drain hose is usually found on the back of the washer (in photo above, the hose in the woman’s hand), along with two separate hoses for both cold and hot water supply (in photo above, the hoses at the top of the machine). The drain hose carries wastewater out of the machine, while the hot and cold water supply hoses bring clean water in. The hot and cold water hoses are commonly color-coded red and blue, respectively, while the drain hose is typically gray. As a precaution, turn off the water supply by turning the red and blue knobs counterclockwise.

Step 3: Drain the water from the washing machine.

Depending on how your machine is configured, the drain hose may carry water into either a standpipe, a drainpipe in the wall, or a large nearby utility sink.

With a large bucket at the ready, disconnect the drain hose from the pipe by simply wiggling it loose. Hold the hose up in the air until you’re ready to fill the bucket; once you lower the end of the hose below the water level of the water in the basin, gravity will cause the water to flow out.

If you need to pause and empty the bucket, place the disconnected end of the washing machine drain hose back into the drain pipe. Repeat this process until you completely drain the washing machine, holding the hose lower and lower to the ground as the water level in the basin decreases. You may need to utilize a shallower container like a 9-inch-by-13-inch baking dish in order to keep it as low to the ground as possible.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When I had to drain my washing machine, I found a wet/dry vacuum to be an absolute game-changer. Instead of wrestling with buckets or shallow pans, I connected the vacuum hose to the washing machine’s drain hose and let the vacuum do all the work. It sucked the water out quickly and completely, without the constant emptying and risk of spills.

One mistake I made initially was forgetting to check that the vacuum was set to ‘wet’ mode and had its filter removed. Don’t skip this step, or you’ll end up with a clogged vacuum. This method saved me so much time and frustration, especially when dealing with a large amount of standing water. Plus, it made cleaning the drain pump afterward a breeze since there was no leftover water to deal with.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Step 4: Remove drain hose clogs.

You may find when you lower the hose into the bucket that the water drains slowly or not at all. This likely indicates a blockage in the drain hose. Release it, using a plumbing snake. Push the tip of the coil in until you reach the blockage, turning manually with the handles on the opposite end until you get through the blockage.

Be prepared for water to flow out from the hose once you remove the clog.

Step 5: Remove drain pump clogs.

If the clog doesn’t appear to be in the drain hose, it may be hiding in the drain pump. The drain pump may be located behind removable panels in either the front or back of the washing machine, even underneath the appliance, requiring you to tip the machine forward to access it (consult your owner’s manual for instructions). You’ll see a drain hose and inlet hose connected to it with spring clamps.

Once you’ve located the pump, remove the spring clamps by squeezing them with a pair of pliers. Clear any clogs that you find–which could range from a small article of clothing or a buildup of lint or pet hair—with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Then reattach the hoses.

How to Drain a Front-Loading Washing Machine

Step 1: Turn off the power.

Switch the power button off, if your model has one. Unplug the washer from the power source. Duct tape the power cord to the top of the machine to avoid splashing it with water or getting caught under the machine.

Step 2: Locate the drain pump filter and/or drain tube.

In front-load washers, you’ll typically find one of two configurations: either a single drain pump filter that both filters debris and releases excess water, or a drain pump filter and a separate drain hose. This setup will typically be located behind an access panel on the bottom of the front of the machine; depending on your model, you may need to unscrew this front panel, unclip it, or simply flip it down.

Step 3: Drain the water.

How you actually drain a washing machine will depend on whether your unit has a filter only or a filter and drain tube.

• If you have a drain pump filter only, place a towel on the floor and a shallow container like a baking dish against the washing machine, directly below the filter to catch the water. Slowly turn the knob of the drain pump filter counterclockwise to remove the filter; water will begin to spill out. Don’t pull the filter all the way out while the water is draining; if you fill up the container before the water has stopped flowing, you will want to quickly be able to close it back up while you empty the container. Repeat until the water has drained out completely.
• If your appliance has both a filter and drain tube, place the towel and a shallow container underneath the drain hose. Unclip the drain tube from its position; unscrew the end cap when you’re ready to release the water. Keep the cap in one hand so you can stop the flow of water quickly and easily should your container fill up. Replace the cap when all the water has been drained and clip the hose back into place.

Step 4: Clean the filter.

After you’ve drained the washing machine, remove any buildup of solid material from the filter by hand. Then rinse the filter with a soft-bristled brush and warm water. Replace the filter and the access panel.

Step 5: Call a repair person if the problem is not resolved.

If neither the drain pump hose nor the drain pump filter appears to be clogged, and you’ve checked that the drain hose isn’t kinked, you’ve done your due diligence. It may be time to call in a professional.

The post How to Drain a Washing Machine appeared first on Bob Vila.

It’s never an ideal situation: A quick trip to the bathroom followed by a single flush and, boom, you’re dealing with a clogged drain or—much worse—a nearly overflowing toilet. If you find yourself without a plunger, you don’t know how to plunge a toilet, or if you’ve tried using a plunger and it didn’t work, you have a few options left before resorting to hiring a plumber. The good news is that you can usually take care of a clogged toilet or toilet overflow using items you already have in your bathroom or kitchen cabinets.

1. Pour in Some Hot (But Not Boiling) Water

When you notice a nasty clog or your toilet won’t flush, your best bet is to pour in some hot water. You can turn the tap in your bathroom sink or tub to the hottest setting or heat the water up a bit on the stove, but don’t let the water get to boiling point. Pour it down the drain and let it sit for a few minutes to see if it loosens the clog. You’ll know if your efforts were successful if you see the water start to drain. Then, give the toilet a flush or two. In many cases, hot water is enough to break up whatever is causing the backup.

Pro tip from a BobVila.com editor who recently used this technique: Cupfuls of hot water don’t help much, but larger quantities do. Fill a water pitcher, small bucket, or even your bathroom wastebasket with hot water, and pour the water from a standing position. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

2. Swish in Some Dish Soap

If you need to kick the unclogging process up a notch, fetch some dish soap from the kitchen and squeeze a generous amount, about a 1/4 cup should do, into the toilet bowl. Let the soap sit for 5 to 10 minutes so it has time to move down the drain and reach the clog. Then, add hot water (again, not boiling water) to the bowl and let the soapy mixture sit. In most cases, the dish soap will act as a lubricant and grease the clog in the toilet drain enough to get everything moving again.

Tried-and-True Advice

“This is going to sound ridiculous, but one strategy for unclogging a toilet without a plunger that Lucy did not mention is laying plastic wrap across the rim of the bowl. No lie, I’ve actually tried this.

The idea is to use the plastic wrap to create an air vacuum in the bowl, increasing the downward pressure on the flush to release modest clogs. The key step here is to make sure the plastic wrap is sealed tightly along the rim. Then you flush, and as the bowl fills with water, forcing the air inside to swell up against the plastic wrap, you press the plastic wrap down. The added pressure should be enough to drive the water down the pipe, hopefully removing the blockage. Of course, this method requires getting a little more…intimate with a clogged toilet than most people are comfortable with. If that includes you, just invest in a plunger. It’s worth it.”

—Chase Brush, Contributing Writer

3. Mix in Baking Soda and Vinegar

Who knew that something you learned in elementary school science would help with toilet troubles? Don’t try this hack if the water in your toilet bowl is already at the brim—you’ll want to either drain some of the water first, or wait until the water level recedes.

Here’s what to do: Pour 1 cup of baking soda and 1 cup of vinegar down the toilet drain. When the vinegar and baking soda combine, the natural chemical reaction will bubble up and loosen the clog. After about 30 minutes, follow up with some hot water and see if it drains. If it does, you’re good to go. If it doesn’t, repeat the process.

4. Use the Toilet Brush

This may sound a little unpleasant, but if you’re really in a bind and there’s no toilet plunger in sight, grab a toilet brush and angle the bristles down the drain. Pumping up and down a few times should be enough to loosen things up so the clog clears in no time. (If you want a plunger handy in case your toilet clogs again, you’ll find some good options in our researched guide to the best plungers.)

5. Unwind a Wire Hanger

If you don’t have access to a drain snake, you can fashion your own using a wire coat hanger from your closet. Simply unwind the hanger so that it’s completely straight with the exception of the hook. Then, wrap a small rag around the hook to help prevent any scratches or damage to the porcelain and, while wearing rubber gloves, gently angle the hanger down the drain until you find the clog. When the water starts to drain, flush the toilet a few times to clear it out.

6. DIY Your Own Drain De-Clogger

Don’t run out to buy a commercial drain unclogging product. Instead, create your own DIY de-clogger by mixing together the following ingredients: 2 cups baking soda, 1/4 cup Epsom salt, and 8 to 10 tablespoons of dish detergent (add 1 tablespoon at a time). Pour the combination into individual muffin liners, then let them dry and harden overnight. The next morning, drop one into the toilet bowl, add 4 cups of water, and let it sit for a few hours to see results.

7. Bust Out the Shop Vac

As a last resort: Try to suck out the clog with a shop vac. If you don’t have one, you can rent a wet/dry vacuum from your local hardware store. Do not try this with a regular vacuum.

• First, use the shop vac it to empty the water from the bowl.
• Next, wrap the hose in an old rag to create a seal.
• Stick the wet/dry vacuum a few inches down the drain. When you turn on the vacuum, it should suck out the clog.
• Don’t forget to wear rubber gloves!

The post 7 Clever Ways to Unclog a Toilet Without a Plunger appeared first on Bob Vila.

Half of the battle with common home repairs is often picking the correct material to use. And when two products seem to have some overlap in their intended purpose—as spackle and joint compound do—the choice can get even trickier.

Is joint compound the same as spackle? Even though they look almost identical to the untrained eye and both are used in wall and ceiling repair and construction, they aren’t the same. The differences affect factors like dry time, shrinkage, and project scope. Generally, spackle is best for small repairs and joint compound is used for larger drywall projects. Still, there are plenty of different products in both categories, making it tough for new DIYers to choose the right one. 

If you’re about to tackle drywall installation or repair, read on to learn more about joint compound vs. spackle so that you are ready to handle that next project like a pro.

What is joint compound?

Joint compound (also known as “drywall mud,” “Sheetrock mud,” or simply “mud”) is comprised mainly of gypsum dust and can be bought in bags of ready-to-mix powders or in pre-mixed tubs. There are also quick-set joint compound options that can speed up the typical 24-hour wait to just under an hour. 

Types of joint compound

The most popular types of drywall mud include all-purpose, quick-setting, taping, and topping.   

• All-purpose joint compounds, like the USG Sheetrock all-purpose joint compound, are designed for easy application to drywall seams. 
• A quick-setting joint compound is better suited to wall and ceiling patching jobs because it dries more quickly. ProForm Quick Set Lite, for example, dries in just 45 minutes. 
• Taping joint compounds are the easiest to apply, have the lowest amount of shrinkage, and are used over drywall tape to smooth out the seams between drywall sheets.  
• Topping joint compounds are designed for the top coat of drywall seams, and they are designed to be smooth and free of air bubbles.

What is spackle?

Spackle, made of gypsum powder and binders, has a gooey paste-like consistency and is sold pre-mixed in tubs. When making minor repairs to plaster or Sheetrock gaps that are less than ¼-inch deep or wide, spackle is a good option because it’s used to fill small dings and dents, like nail holes, in walls. 

Spackle dries more quickly and with less shrinkage than joint compound, and that fast dry time (usually about 30 minutes) means you can sand and paint over the filled flaws almost right away.

Types of spackle

Spackle varieties are elastic, minimizing shrinkage. Types include: 

• Lightweight spackle like DAP vinyl spackling is made with a vinyl binding agent and is suitable for small repairs that are less than ¼ inch wide or deep.
• All-purpose formulations, such as DryDex heavyweight spackle are made with acrylic like and can handle holes up to ¾ inch in diameter. 
• Large-hole repair spackle products like the 3M High Strength Large Hole Repair Kit are made to fix holes up to 3 inches wide. These kits usually come with a small piece of mesh to provide a backer to which the spackle can adhere.

Key Differences Between Joint Compound and Spackle

One distinctive difference between spackle and joint compound is the latter’s frosting-like consistency, whereas spackle is usually lighter. Here are a few more key differences. 

Joint compound can be substituted for spackle if need be, but not vice versa.

Got a tub of joint compound left over from a previous renovation? Feel free to substitute drywall mud for spackle for small drywall repairs. Just be aware that joint compound runs the risk of shrinking, which calls for multiple coats and a longer dry time—sometimes up to 24 hours.

On the other hand, if you’re all out of joint compound but have what looks like enough spackle to patch a large hole or finish your drywall installation, hold off. You’re better off going back to the hardware store for more drywall mud instead. Spackle (especially the lightweight variety) dries too quickly for the kind of coverage needed to make big repairs or install drywall, jobs that definitely call for joint compound.

Both products can dry out quickly during use as they’re exposed to air.

Even though there are differences between drywall compound vs spackle, they both react to air the same way. It’s important to work quickly with both joint compound and spackle, and you should keep either product covered when not in use. If you’re mixing up your own DIY spackle or joint compound with water and a powder mix, only make as much needed for the task at hand.

Joint compound is most often used when hanging new drywall.

During drywall installation, contractors affix large sheets of gypsum sheet to awall’s framing, apply drywall tape to the seams between the sheets, and then cover the tape with joint compound. With a little bit of finish work, the joint compound helps create a smooth surface with undetectable seams. Spackle isn’t suited for this purpose because its quick-drying nature gives you less flexibility and working time, which makes determining whether to use spackle vs. joint compound relatively straightforward when installing new drywall.

The post Joint Compound vs. Spackle: What’s the Difference?  appeared first on Bob Vila.

Q: My bathroom sink isn’t draining very well, and it’s driving me crazy. While the water does eventually drain out, it takes a long time—and, in the meantime, it’s hard to use a sink full of dirty water. What can be done about the slow sink drain?

A: If by the time you finish brushing your teeth, you’re leaning over a sink full of water dotted with toothpaste foam, you face a very common problem: a partial sink clog. While frustrating, a slow sink drain is easy enough for most homeowners to remedy on their own. The culprit is generally a slimy mixture of soap scum, hair, hair styling products, and/or thick shaving foam that has accumulated on the drain walls. While you might be tempted to reach for commercial drain openers right off the bat, know that these harsh and corrosive chemicals can irritate your skin and eyes and even harm old pipes. Since removing the blockage often doesn’t require any chemicals at all, we suggest playing it safe and trying the natural solutions outlined here.

Clean the stopper.

Because of its position at the mouth of the drain and the metal “tail” that extends a couple inches into the pipe, the sink stopper—the small raised metal device used to plug the sink’s drain on command—tends to catch hair, soap, and other debris. Once this trapped ball of slime gets too big, you have a slow sink drain.

In many modern sinks, you can remove the stopper simply by unscrewing it. In some older sinks, a small tether holds the stopper in place. If your sink is the latter type, follow these instructions to remove the stopper for cleaning:

1. Look underneath the sink, right where the basin connects to the pipe, and you’ll typically see a small rod with a nut and clip attached to the pipe.
2. Turn the nut to detach it—you might need pliers if it’s tight—squeeze the clip to release the rod, and lift the stopper out of the drain.
3. If the stopper is covered in slimy grunge and hair, use a paper towel or rag to thoroughly clean off all of the residues.

Melt the sludge.

A slimy coating along the inside of the sink’s drainpipe will narrow the opening and slow drainage. Here’s an easy way to dislodge built-up residue in the pipe using only common household pantry items.

1. Pour 1/2 cup baking soda into the drain followed by 1/2 cup white vinegar; the fizzing and bubbling reaction helps to break up small clogs.

2. Block the drain using a small rag so the chemical reaction doesn’t all bubble up out. Wait 15 minutes.

3. Now pour a kettle’s worth of hot water down the drain, and run hot sink water for several minutes to further flush out the melted slime.

Lift out debris.

If cleaning the drain walls didn’t fix the problem, fish out any accumulated debris with a small hair clog tool or drain snake.

Generally made of flexible plastic, drain snakes such as the FlexiSnake Drain Weasel feature long stems with a handle at one end and small barbs at the other; the barbs grab onto hair and other debris inside the clogged sink drain.

With the stopper removed, insert the plastic line down the drain, wiggle it around, and lift it out frequently to wipe off whatever you hook. Continue to do this until you can no longer pull up any blockage.

Use a plunger.

Sometimes the clog is further down the drain than even a drain-cleaning tool can reach. A sink plunger can help. For the best results:

1. Block the sink’s overflow hole with a small rag.
2. Place your cup-shaped sink plunger—not a toilet plunger, which has a flange for sealing a toilet’s outlet—over the sink drain.
3. Fill the basin with enough water to cover the plunger’s cup.
4. Now plunge up and down in short, quick movements to force as much air as possible down into the drain.
5. If the clog dislodges, you should see the water in the sink quickly drain away.

Snake the drain with an auger.

If you’ve tried all of the above steps but are still stuck with a slow sink drain, it’s time to get a bit more aggressive. Pick up a drain snake, also called a drain auger, from the home improvement store (or check out our roundup of the best drain snakes available for purposes like this). This metal cable extends anywhere from three to 25 feet long with a spiral catch at the other end so you can dislodge clogs located beyond the reach of a sink-cleaning tool or plunger.

With the stopper removed, insert the tip of the snake into the drain. Feed the snake further down the pipe, periodically retracting it to clean away any accumulated grunge. Keep a trash can nearby, because you’ll need somewhere to toss whatever comes out of the drain.

If you feel a block in the pipe, crank the drain snake’s handle to break through and wiggle the tool gently from side to side to catch the clog. Once the snake has a little give again, remove the snake and its contents and flush the drain with hot water.

Check the P-trap.

Look underneath your sink and you’ll see a U-shaped bend in the pipe. This is the P-trap, and while its purpose is to maintain a small standing pool of water to prevent sewer gas from backing up into your home, it’s also a prime spot for loose change, lost rings, debris, even lost toys to accumulate.

1. To clear your P-trap, start by turn off the water supply to the sink. While you’re at, remove any items store under the sink. Leave only a bucket placed directly underneath the P-trap to catch dirty water.
2. In most homes, the P-trap is held in place by slip nuts at each end of the curved pipe. These are usually plastic but can be chrome in older houses. Twist the slip nuts counterclockwise with your fingers or a wrench and, once the slip nuts are loosened, lift away the P-trap section of pipe.
3. Use your gloved fingers, a stiff brush, or an unbent coat hanger to push out any apparent blockages.

When the job is done, reattach the plumbing, tighten the slip nuts securely, and turn the water back on.

Keep things flowing with a little preventative maintenance.

Since a slow-draining sink is a problem that gradually escalates over time, you can minimize the chance of making a day of this by following a few basic precautions.

• When you see loose strands of hair in the sink, toss them into the trash rather than washing them down the drain. The same goes for gobs of toothpaste and soap: Better to wipe up than rinse away.
• If long hair often ends up in the sink, cover the stopper with a plastic or wire mesh shower drain hair catcher to collect hair before it goes down the drain during your grooming routine.
• Knock dirt and any other thick, heavy, or sticky materials into the trash before washing up.
• Make cleaning the sink stopper a part of your regular bathroom cleaning routine. Lift it out to wipe away hair, scum, and residue weekly.
• Regularly flush out the drain with very hot water to help melt away soap scum and sludge.
• Once each month or two, remove the stopper and pour 1 tablespoon of table salt and a 1/4 white vinegar into the drain, flushing the mixture away with hot water. This combination should loosen stubborn grunge before it builds into a clog.

The post How to Fix a Slow Sink Drain appeared first on Bob Vila.

Winter may not seem like the best season to start a home project, but it’s the perfect opportunity to transform parts of the home’s interior with serious upgrade potential. In the colder months, we’re stuck inside anyway, and without vacations, outdoor activities, and other warm-weather distractions, we can often accomplish more in a shorter amount of time.

“Winter is a great time to focus on indoor projects that improve comfort and functionality,” says Margaret Kemmeter, kitchen and bath designer at renovation contractor Sims. ”With the colder weather, outdoor projects usually take a back seat and make it easier for us to direct our energy and resources toward improving the interiors of the home.”

Let’s face it: You need something to do besides binge-watching the latest hot series on Netflix. Get those DIY juices flowing by working on one or more of these home projects you can—and maybe should—tackle during the winter.

Done-in-a-Day Updates

Some deeply satisfying home updates can be completed in a single afternoon, or even just an hour. If the project involves swapping out items like light fixtures or drawer pulls, make sure to take accurate measurements. It’s super frustrating and a big time delay to have to go back to the home improvement center or return an online order that doesn’t fit properly.

1. Make sure your smoke detectors are working. 

According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), in 2023 one house fire was reported to a fire department every 95 seconds. December is the peak month for house fires, which is why you should kick off these colder months by evaluating and upgrading your home’s safety features, such as smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors.

Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors should be tested monthly and replaced every 5 to 7 years. Pay attention to the expiration dates on your detectors, and when it’s time to replace them, upgrade to a newer model with better safety features. Consider swapping the old units out for a combination smoke detector/carbon monoxide detector, like the X-Sense, the Best Overall winner in our hands-on tested guide to the best smoke detectors.

2. Refresh your home’s lighting design or fixtures.

“Shorter days can leave your home feeling dark and dreary. Adding lighting enhancements can improve both functionality and mood,” says Swannell Thompson, a handyperson with Frontdoor, a service that connects homeowners with skilled tradespeople. Whether you swap out one light fixture, add layers of battery-powered or plug-in fixtures, or just update light bulbs, you can ward off those earlier sunsets with lighting that can improve illumination—and your spirits.

“You can upgrade to layered lighting, such as under-cabinet lights or dimmable fixtures that can instantly transform the mood of any space while also improving functionality,” says Kemmeter. Consider installing battery-powered strip lighting like this dimmable and self-adhesive LED strip light under cabinets or around your favorite wall art. To add a layer of light in the dining room or family room without wiring, try battery-powered sconces that work for up to 72 hours on one charge. 

Be sure to choose energy-efficient LED fixtures or bulbs in a color temperature that suits the mood or function of each room. For example, light bulbs with a color temperature under 3000K emit a softer, warmer light, while a color temperature greater than 5000K is crisp and helpful for reading, crafting, or other detailed hobbies. Bulbs with a color temperature between those two are well suited for kitchen and home office lighting. 

3. Beef up your home tech and security system.

With temperatures dipping low and skies bringing snow and sleet, winter is not ideal for installing tech features or security cameras outdoors. Instead, focus on enhancing your tech game indoors and start using your home’s virtual assistant for more than just ordering toilet paper or checking the weather forecast.

“You can also install or upgrade smart home systems like thermostats and lighting as well as security cameras, which improve the functionality and comfort of your home. Smart thermostats are great for sustaining optimal indoor temperatures and energy efficiency,” says Jennifer Rogers, designer at BKC Kitchen and Bath.

4. Upgrade your kitchen cabinet pulls.

If you spend your winter cooped up in the kitchen, cooking big meals for family and cookies for Santa, you may be getting bored with your tired-looking kitchen. Dial up the style—without spending a lot of time or money—by replacing outdated drawer pulls and knobs on your cabinets. Consider modern pulls in on-trend matte black, like this 10-pack from Amerdeco.

Pro tip: Carefully measure your current pulls before selecting new ones. Ordering pulls that fit the existing holes will save you from having to drill new holes and fill and finish the old ones. 

5. Swap out bathroom faucets. 

The mess and disruption of a kitchen or bathroom renovation may be more than you want to deal with in the winter. Instead, focus on something small that makes a big impact—for instance, the kitchen or bathroom faucet. Whether it’s woefully out of style or suffering from hard water, rough use, and the passage of time, that faucet may be ripe for replacement.

A new faucet not only refreshes the space but, if you choose well, can also help conserve water and save money. This project takes no more than an afternoon and is perfect for tackling in the colder months, especially before holiday guests arrive. (Our tested guide to the best bathroom faucets has terrific options for all types of sinks and budgets.)

6. Test your water. 

If you’ve never tested your water, winter is a good season to make it happen. “More than half of Americans have never tested their water. Hard water negatively impacts your home by causing mineral buildup or scaling in plumbing, fixtures, and water heaters, driving significant repair and premature replacement costs,” says Chris Counahan, president of home improvement company Leaf Home. 

You can do it yourself with a kit like the Safe Home Drinking Water Test Kit, which earned the top spot in our researched guide to water test kits. Simply send in your water sample, which is then tested at an EPA-certified lab.

Once you’ve received a complete analytical report of your water’s quality, you’ll know what to look for when shopping for the best whole-house water filter for your home. And you’ll be confidently ready for your spring gardening.

Pro tip: Testing is just the first step. To improve the quality of your water, Counahan says, “It is highly recommended to have a water expert evaluate and test your water to provide a customized water treatment system to meet your unique water needs.”

7. Declutter closets and storage areas.

Americans are good at collecting extra stuff. Almost half of us report that our homes are cluttered with stuff we don’t need anymore. One in seven can’t use at least one room in our home because it’s filled with rarely used items, and nearly two out of five admit they haven’t decluttered in more than a year. Before holiday gift-giving adds to the clutter, it’s time to send the extra stuff packing. 

“Winter is a great time to tackle indoor spaces that may have become disorganized over the year. Plus, decluttering can make your home feel more spacious and manageable,” says Thompson of Frontdoor. “Go through closets, garages, and attics to donate or toss unused items. Consider installing shelving or storage bins to create a more functional system for your belongings.”

8. Organize the laundry room.

Though it’s central to a household’s day-to-day functioning, the laundry room might not be at the top of the list when it comes to organization and style. Make use of a winter weekend when you’re stuck indoors to refresh and reorganize the laundry room. Add some floating shelves or cubbies and a hanging rod for clothes. Even just a thorough cleaning, an infusion of baskets, and some well-placed hooks can help turn it into a spot where you’ll actually enjoy spending time.

9. Check the HVAC system.

“Your heating system is working overtime in the winter. Regular maintenance can extend its life and ensure it operates efficiently,” says Thompson. This is a project that shouldn’t be delayed, as it can help improve indoor air quality and help you avoid costly and inconvenient repairs or replacements.

“A one-time HVAC maintenance call costs about $99 on average, but repairs and replacement costs vary greatly based on what’s needed,” says Courtney Klosterman, home insights expert at home insurance company Hippo. “In addition to minimizing wear and tear, regular checks and maintenance help your HVAC system operate smoothly and maintain good air circulation in your home,” says Klosterman. Replace the filters yourself or hire a pro to clean the ducts or inspect the furnace.

Klosterman adds: “Getting everything squared away before you need it can keep your home warm and energy-efficient in the winter.”

Done-in-a-Weekend Upgrades

Some home-improvement projects are more involved and may require a full weekend or more to complete. If you aren’t an experienced DIYer, or aren’t confident about your skills in any of the following areas, consider hiring a local remodeler to take on these projects.

10. Seal drafty windows and doors.

“Energy Star estimates that homeowners can save an average of 15 percent on heating and cooling costs by adding insulation and air-sealing their homes,” says Klosterman.

Since “cold drafts can sneak in through poorly sealed windows and doors, making your home colder and drive up heating costs, apply weatherstripping, caulk gaps, or install draft stoppers on doors,” advises Thompson. “Consider using plastic window insulation kits to add an extra layer of protection.” 

11. Update your kitchen countertop.

In the winter, prepping for parties and family gatherings keeps many of us in the kitchen more than usual. During those long hours in the kitchen, you may be more likely to notice damaged, stained, or drab countertops. Or maybe you’ve been craving a smooth, cool surface for rolling out dough for cookies or pies. Fortunately, winter is a fine time to treat yourself to a countertop upgrade. (Tip: Quartz and stone kitchen countertop materials are ideal for dough rolling.)

Beyond functionality, replacing the countertops can make a huge impact on your kitchen’s appearance, and the job doesn’t require a ton of kitchen downtime (though there may be some lag time between measuring for the new countertop and the actual install date). Note that a countertop swap-out is usually best handled by a pro, which means you’ll have more time to watch holiday movies with the family. 

12. Give your fireplace a facelift.

“If you have a fireplace, consider giving it a facelift,” says Rogers of BKC Kitchen and Bath. First, take a moment to sit in front of the fireplace and look it over with fresh eyes. Is it so dated that even Santa would call it retro? 

Maybe the fireplace would benefit from a more modern hue, such as Tricorn Black from Sherwin-Williams, or a sleek trendy mantel? Installing a French Victorian surround can transform an entire room from “1990s suburban fine” into a romantic retreat. While you’re at it, don’t forget to update the fireplace screen, too.

13. Paint the walls a fresh new color. 

Many homeowners like to take on interior painting projects during spring or summer, but winter may be a better time to change your wall colors. That same dry interior air that depletes the moisture in your skin during winter can help a fresh coat of paint dry more quickly. “Paint can refresh any room and enhance the overall aesthetic,” says Thompson of Frontdoor. “Whether it’s a full repaint or just refreshing trim, it’s an investment that brightens your space.”

Be sure to choose a no- or low-VOC paint and pick a mild day for painting so you feel more comfortable keeping windows open for proper ventilation. Even when using no-VOC paint, painting without adequate ventilation can cause headaches and respiratory issues. 

14. Replace worn-out carpeting.

“Winter weather can make carpets more damp and lead to mold,” says Klosterman. If your carpets have seen better days, the first few months of the year are prime for replacing threadbare, ripped, or bulging carpeting. You’ll probably even save money because carpeting prices are usually lower during the first quarter of the year. 

If replacement isn’t an option, try cleaning: “Proactively cleaning and protecting your carpet can help prevent weird home smells and an expensive replacement since carpets can cost $1 to $4 per square foot,” says Klosterman. “For a 160-square-foot living room (16 feet by 10 feet), you can expect to pay $640 to replace your carpet—not including the cost of installation.” 

Plus, after replacing—or even cleaning—the carpet, the room will feel cozier and the carpet may stand up better to the rest of the snowy season.

15. Insulate the attic and crawl space.

Protecting you from the cold is one of your house’s primary functions. One way of ensuring that your interior spaces stay as warm as possible, even in the coldest weather, is to reinsulate your attic or crawl space.

“A home update that is smart to do during the winter is to add or replace the insulation in your attic,” says Andrew Legge, CEO of Havelock Wool, manufacturers of high-performance wool insulation. “Most fibrous insulations are low-integrity fibers that break down over time. Adding more insulation will help it retain heat, promoting energy efficiency. Replacing older or damaged insulation will dramatically improve the benefits.”

When compared to other home improvements that just enhance one space, insulating the attic is a relatively easy project that can have a big impact on comfort in every room.

16. Upgrade kitchen cabinet fronts or interiors. 

“Another excellent winter project is upgrading cabinetry or adding custom storage solutions,” says Kemmeter of Sims. “Opt for pull-out shelves or drawer organizers in the kitchen to increase storage and keep the space tidy during the bustling holiday season.” 

Pro tip: Schedule kitchen updates for completion at least 2 weeks before a gathering, even if you think the project should take just a few hours. That way, if you need to pick up more supplies to finish or if something unexpected pops up, you won’t be stuck with a half-finished kitchen upgrade while you’re entertaining guests.

17. Put in a new kitchen backsplash.

The cold, dark days of winter make many of us crave colorful, warm spaces that distract us from the dreariness outside. A new kitchen backsplash is an excellent opportunity to amp up the color and playfulness indoors. This project packs a hefty visual punch and can be a productive activity for a bleak January weekend.

Pro tip: Consider using a tile adhesive mat to make the project a little bit easier. 

The post 17 Home Updates You Can (and Should) Do in Winter appeared first on Bob Vila.

Q: When I plugged my cell phone charger into a kitchen outlet, my phone didn’t start charging—the electrical outlet was not working. Is there something I can do to fix the outlet myself, or should I call an electrician?

A: A power outlet not working is not only an inconvenience but also, unfortunately, a common issue. What’s more, there are quite a few potential causes, meaning diagnosing the problem may not be straightforward. Depending on whether it’s a tripped GFCI or a blown fuse, homeowners may be able to figure out how to fix an outlet that is not working themselves. However, since electrical systems are complex and potentially dangerous, it’s generally best to hire an electrician near you to ensure that the issue is taken care of safely.

First, a quick note on outlets: The vertical slots in the outlet are called “shutters,” and the small hole beneath each set of shutters is the “ground.” Most outlets will accept either 2-prong or 3-prong plugs. If the home has older wiring, the third hole (the “ground”) may not be present. It’s worth keeping this anatomy in mind while trying out troubleshooting tips.

1. You may have a half-hot outlet.

Sometimes called a “lamp outlet,” this type of electrical outlet is a little different from standard outlets in that half of it (usually the bottom half) is controlled by a switch on the wall. The purpose of a half-hot outlet is to allow homeowners to plug in a lamp, turn it on, and then control the lamp from the light switch. This is especially common in rooms that don’t have overhead lighting. If there is a switch on the wall that doesn’t seem to go to anything, it could very well control a half-hot outlet. Flip this switch and then try the outlet again. “This testing is also an opportunity to determine which switches control which outlets,” says Dan Mock, vice president of operations at Mister Sparky, a nationwide electrical company. “If the outlets and switches are not set up the way you want them to be, an electrician can safely and easily reconfigure them.”

2. The device, not the outlet, may be faulty.

Blaming a perfectly functional outlet for a lamp not turning on is a common lighting mistake almost everyone makes. On the off-chance that it’s not the electrical outlet but rather a burnt-out light bulb that is the problem, plug something else into the same outlet, such as a blow dryer or a cell phone charger. It’s also a good idea to see if the breaker has tripped. If not, this is another indication that the problem may be with the device being plugged in rather than the outlet.

Additionally, if one outlet is not working the majority of the time, other outlets nearby will also lose power. Plug devices into other outlets in the room to see if they’re working. If other outlets are dead, there may be a larger issue.

3. If it’s a GFCI outlet, it might need to be reset.

While ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets may be inconspicuous, these are common household items that could save lives. Before the advent of GFCIs, electric shock injuries were more likely to occur when someone was standing in water or otherwise in contact with water when using an electrical appliance, such as a blow dryer. In these scenarios, it was possible for the electrical current to surge through the person, thus electrocuting them. Building codes now require the installation of GFCIs in bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms—anywhere near water.

When a GFCI outlet senses a surge in electricity, it’s designed to shut off to minimize the risk of electrocution. GFCIs can be temperamental and shut off occasionally, even when a surge has not occurred. Fortunately, resetting a GFCI outlet that’s not working is as simple as pushing the small rectangular button on the center of the outlet and plugging in a device to see if it comes on. If the GFCI outlet won’t reset or keeps tripping, it might not be a fluke and there may be water infiltration. According to Christopher Haas, expert electrician and owner of Haas & Sons Electric in Millersville, Maryland, “If your GFCI is tripping because of a recent storm or [because you] had your house power washed, you may need to wait a day or two for the exterior receptacles to dry out before trying again.” If the outlet is truly damaged, a new GFCI outlet costs about $210 to install.

4. A blown fuse could be the cause of the outlet not working.

Before circuit breakers became the norm, most homes had fuse boxes. Much like a circuit breaker, a fuse box stops electricity overloads before they can cause shocks or fires. But instead of tripping a switch like a circuit breaker, the fuse will melt to halt the flow of electricity. The fuse is contained behind glass, and if the glass has any residue or is cracked, it’s likely that the fuse has blown and will need to be replaced.

Blown fuses are a sign that more electricity is being used than what the home’s system can currently handle. It’s a good idea to unplug any appliances or devices when they aren’t being used to lighten the load (another reason to develop this habit is that leaving phones and laptops plugged in consistently is a mistake that can kill electronics, too). Otherwise, an electrician may recommend upgrading electrical panels. The cost to replace an electrical panel ranges from $522 to $2,082.

5. The outlet itself could have burnt out.

Although it isn’t common, an outlet can burn out or otherwise go bad and quit functioning. This can happen when an electrical surge results in a small spark or flame that burns out the inside of the outlet. There will typically be some evidence of this, such as scorch marks on the outlet cover or a burning smell. Mock warns, “Hot or even warm outlets are extremely dangerous and should be replaced immediately. You should not continue to attempt to use these outlets until [they’re] repaired. Malfunctioning outlets can cause a serious shock and are a very dangerous fire hazard.”

If other potential problems have been ruled out, it might be time to consider replacing the outlet. Once again, for those who intend to do it themselves, it’s vital to make sure the breaker switch that powers the outlet is in the “off” position. The first step is to remove the outlet cover and disconnect the wires from the old outlet with a screwdriver. Then, that process can be reversed to install the new outlet, making sure the wires are connected, as described in an upcoming step.

6. There may be a tripped circuit breaker causing the issue.

The breaker box, often located in a utility room or basement, features multiple breakers (switches), and each one controls the power to a different part of the home. If a circuit breaker has tripped, it’s likely that all of the electrical components in a room have failed, not just a single outlet.

Homeowners can inspect their circuit breaker to find out whether it has tripped. Behind the panel door are one or two rows of switches labeled “OFF” on one side and “ON” on the other side. If a breaker tripped, the switch will be in the middle, between OFF and ON. If there is a switch in the middle, it can be flipped to the OFF side first, and then to the ON side. That will reset the breaker. Once this has been done, it’s a good idea to go back to the problem outlet and test it again. There are two main reasons for a circuit breaker to trip.

• The electrical circuit may be overloaded. If the power was restored to the outlet after flipping the breaker, the circuit may have been overloaded. This can happen if too many things (especially heat-generating appliances, as fire departments wish homeowners knew) are plugged into the same circuit at once. When that happens, the circuit breaker will flip and cut the power because more electricity is being drawn than the circuit can handle. According to Haas, “Sometimes, a breaker can be bad or old and not hold its marked amperage amount.” In this case, an electrician “will be able to determine if the breaker is weak, if something is using too much power, or if you may have a hidden issue in the circuit that needs flushing out.”
• There may be a short circuit. A short circuit occurs when the intended flow of electricity is interrupted, such as when wires are accidentally in contact. A short circuit is dangerous and can lead to a fire. If the circuit breaker keeps tripping after being reset—and there isn’t anything plugged in—it’s a good idea to leave the breaker off and call an electrician who is familiar with the process of wiring a breaker box and knows how to repair or how to replace a circuit breaker safely.

7. Loose connecting wires can cause an outlet to lose power.

If the reason for a wall outlet not working is still unclear after the homeowner has done some troubleshooting, this could be a warning sign of dangerously outdated electrical wiring, or it could be due to loose wires. Most homeowners aren’t comfortable with complex electrical systems and may not know the meaning of various electrical wire colors, in which case this is the time to call the electrician.

Those who want to check the wiring themselves can do so by making sure the breaker to the outlet is switched to the “off” position, then removing the faceplate from the outlet and removing the screws that hold the outlet in place. Then the outlet can be pulled out a few inches from the outlet box.

The ends of the wires that attach to the outlet should be securely fastened beneath the outlet screws. The black wire attaches to the gold screw on the side of the outlet, and the white wire connects to the silver screw on the other side. A copper or green wire attaches to the bottom of the outlet. If any of the wires have come loose, they can be reattached by positioning the wire beneath the corresponding screw and then tightening the screw securely to hold it in place.

8. The outlet may have been improperly installed.

If the outlet was installed or repaired by someone other than a licensed electrician, there may have been mistakes that led to the outlet not working properly. One example is loose wiring, which can be tightened up fairly simply. Another common mistake called “backstabbing” occurs when wires are not secured with screws and are instead forced inside of the outlet. If incorrect installation has caused issues that have gone unnoticed, there may be permanent damage, such as burnouts. An electrician can tell if an outlet has been wired up incorrectly and how serious the problem is.

An electrician can help diagnose the issue and can get the outlet working again quickly.

Home wiring is a complex system, and electricians have special equipment and testers to help them locate electrical problems that are difficult to pinpoint otherwise. This makes the cost of hiring an electrician well worth it. “Professional electricians have years of experience in not only diagnosing the issue but also making safe repairs that will last,” says Haas. “A professional will have a deep understanding of how the house was wired and be able to see the wires behind the walls essentially. They will also be up to date with the current code and safety standards, ensuring the repair is done correctly.”

Homeowners will not necessarily be able to discern the severity of an electrical issue without experience. For that reason, it is generally best to err on the side of safety as soon as a problem arises and have it looked at by a professional. Going an extra step and getting an annual inspection of a home’s electrical system can prevent dangerous problems from developing and provide great peace of mind.

The post Electrical Outlet Not Working? 8 Common Reasons Why and How to Fix Them appeared first on Bob Vila.

Beeping or chirping smoke detectors are beyond annoying. Usually, a chirp every 30 to 60 seconds just indicates a low battery. “If it has a 9-volt battery, it needs to be changed,” says Battalion Chief Tom Kane of Philadelphia Firefighters’ and Paramedics’ Union, Local 22. This typically solves the problem for alarms that run entirely on batteries and for those that are hardwired with a battery backup. 

Sometimes, however, the smoke detector continues making the same chirpy sound even after you change the battery. Or, just as maddening, the alarm goes off loudly for no apparent reason. Stay calm and read on for the most likely causes and fixes of a chirping smoke alarm so you can restore peace and keep your home and family protected. 

Reasons Your Smoke Alarm Is Beeping

Three out of five home fire deaths result from fires in properties without working smoke alarms, according to the National Fire Protection Agency. The cause could be an electrical fire, a chimney fire, or a number of other terrifying scenarios. 

It’s no surprise that the agency recommends a functioning smoke detector in every bedroom, outside every sleeping area, and on every floor of a home, including the basement. If a homeowner is experiencing a fire alarm beeping or smoke detector chirping irregularly, start troubleshooting with the following info immediately to avoid risks to your family and fire damage to your home.

1. There’s smoke in your home.

There is a chance that there’s smoke within the home and that it could be setting off the smoke detector. Smoke particles from overcooked popcorn or smoke from the oven could be the cause, or there could be a smoldering fire that is more difficult for a person to detect. 

“If your smoke alarm goes off, you should assume there’s a fire and evacuate the building immediately,” says Kane. “Follow your home fire escape plan and take the following steps.”

1. Alert children.
2. Evacuate by the safest exit or stairway.
3. Don’t use an elevator.
4. Stay close to the floor if it’s smoky.
5. Don’t open doors without feeling them first.
6. Move away from the building once outside.
7. Go to a meeting place.
8. Call the fire department.
9. Don’t return to your home until fire officials say it’s okay.

Even if you don’t see flames, fire can be present. Some that are difficult to locate are typically inside the walls, floors, or ceilings, or start within electrical outlets or devices. 

2. The detector’s batteries may be dead.

A smoke detector should beep or chirp when the battery begins to lose power. This is a safety net of sorts, since it gives the home’s occupants a heads-up that the battery is weak, but still allows the smoke detector to function properly for about 30 days. The units will let you know that they need a battery change long before the device leaves the home unprotected—all the more reason to always have on hand an ample supply of various types of batteries.

However, electronics can do strange things when batteries are weak. An actual alarm activation could be the result of a weak battery tricking or confusing the electronics within the smoke detector, causing it to activate an alarm condition. Replacing the batteries may solve the issue altogether.

3. The smoke detector is retaining a charge from old batteries. 

Components inside a smoke detector may retain a charge, especially if the batteries weren’t fully drained when replaced. This can cause the smoke detector to act strangely, possibly activating the device or causing an intermittent chirp. Retaining a charge is most common in standalone, battery-operated detectors, and the fix is simple:

1. Remove the smoke detector from the base.
2. Open the battery compartment and remove the battery.
3. Press and hold the test button for 30 seconds. 
4. Place the battery back into the device (or replace it if it’s older).
5. Snap the smoke detector back into its base.

4. There’s an issue with the battery housing or connection. 

Making sure the battery is inserted and housed correctly is important to the smoke detector’s functionality. Here are some ways to check that your battery is installed properly. 

On other models, ensure that the unit’s lid is closed and that it is mounted properly when reinserted onto the ceiling.

5. The alarm may need to be replaced.

Ensure that nothing is obstructing the battery’s connection to the terminals. Corrosion or even a small speck of dust, ash, or pollen can prevent proper functioning.

On some units, there’s a small security peg that must be pulled out to open the drawer and remove the battery; this peg must then be pushed back into place once the battery is changed.  

There’s a battery pull tab that must be removed after providing AC power to the alarm for it to operate correctly. 

Some hardwired smoke alarms encase a backup battery in a small drawer. When replacing a battery, make sure that it fits exactly within the slot in the small drawer, and make sure that the drawer closes completely.

The smoke detector itself, and not its battery, might require replacement to stop smoke alarm warnings. “Check the date of the smoke detector. If it is more than 10 years old, it may need to be replaced,” says Kane. “The National Fire Protection Association recommends replacing smoke detectors every 10 years, including hard-wired alarms.” However, he says that some models may last as little as 5 years. 

“All smoke detectors have an expiration date, and you should replace them sooner if they don’t respond properly when tested,” says Kane. Check the manufacture date on the back of the device and add 5 or 10 years to calculate the expiration date.

6. Temperature fluctuations may be impairing the device’s function.

Another common culprit behind smoke detector beeping is a sharp variation in temperature or humidity in the home. A variety of reasons may be to blame. A smoke alarm in an unheated area of the house (an attic, for instance) can become too cold to reliably deliver an electrical charge during an abrupt decline in temperature.  

Other causes may be hot, moist air released from the bathroom after a steamy shower or heat (not smoke) from cooking in the kitchen oven. To avoid these false alarms, reposition smoke alarms that are in close proximity to the kitchen or bathroom door, or direct hot air away from alarm vents with an exhaust fan.

7. Airborne particles may be interrupting the detector’s light beam. 

The small light sensor housed within certain types of smoke detectors can be quite sensitive. That means something as innocuous as a bit of ash, pollen, or dust—blown in through an open window, perhaps—can interrupt the light beam and set off beeping. Consider cleaning the smoke detector using a dry microfiber cloth, a can of compressed air, or your vacuum, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

On the other hand, rather than being blocked by particles, the light sensor might receive too much intense sunlight, if the smoke detector is mounted on a wall in front of east- or west-facing windows, for example. The sensor may have trouble distinguishing between smoke and the intense light.

8.  If you have a smart alarm, it may have overloaded from saved errors. 

Some modern hardwired smoke detectors are smart smoke detectors that adapt to their environment. The trouble is, these advanced models tend to save errors to the processor, and when too many errors add up, they can trigger the alarm. All this means is that the system needs a restart; doing so will delete saved errors and start the device with a clean slate.

9. Your hardwired detector may need a reset.

If your hardwired smoke detector doesn’t respond to the suggestions above, visit the electrical panel. Like any hardwired electrical device or system, smoke detectors should be on electrical breakers to prevent damage or unsafe conditions. The issue is that finding the right breaker isn’t always so easy.

In most cases, a fire alarm system will not be on its own circuit. Local fire codes often require the smoke detectors to share a lighting or outlet circuit to prevent owners from shutting them off or not realizing the breaker tripped. If the breakers aren’t marked, experiment by flipping lighting circuits until the smoke detector lights dim or all of the units begin to chirp.

Note: It may be difficult to find the appropriate breaker, since hardwired systems have battery backups. A pen tester may be necessary. 

Once found, toggle the breaker into the off position, wait several minutes, then toggle it again to restore power. If the alarm does not resume its beeping, you’ve most likely solved the problem by resetting the device. To confirm, push and hold (for a few seconds or as long as recommended in the manufacturer’s instructions) the test button on the face of the detector. If the alarm sounds a few times and then goes silent, it’s back to working order.

10. If you have a hardwired smoke detector, the power may have surged.

In most cases, a power surge won’t cause a smoke detector problem, at least in terms of the circuit. However, it’s not outside of the realm of possibility that the surge could activate or damage the individual devices.

In these cases, it can be difficult to locate the damaged devices, as one device will typically activate the entire circuit. Start by locating the breaker and shutting it down. Allow the system to rest for a few minutes before flipping the breaker on. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to make a device-by-device search to locate the issue.

Here’s how to test individual hardwired devices:

1. Shut the breaker and remove the device from its base.
2. If accessible, remove the battery backup.
3. Use a screwdriver to remove the wires on the back of the device.
4. Twist the wire ends of like colors (black to black, red to red) together. Small wire nuts will help.
5. Reactivate the breaker.

If the system stops alarming with that device removed, it’s the culprit. If not, shut the breaker, install the smoke detector once more, and move to the next smoke detector. Don’t forget about those less noticeable and fancy design-inspired smoke detectors—be sure to test them as well. 

11. “Silent” mode may have been accidentally activated.

This may be surprising, but some smoke detectors will actually chirp when they’re in silent mode. There is probably nothing wrong with the device as it is simply reminding a home’s occupants that for the next 15 minutes or so, the device is out of order.

Accidentally activating this mode is less common than it used to be. Older devices often featured separate test and silence buttons, so accidentally pressing the silence button during testing was extremely common. Modern models have all-in-one buttons that prevent smoke alarm beeping from the silent mode setting.

Generally speaking, the device will stop chirping after 15 minutes.

How to Stop a Smoke Detector From Beeping

The first thing to do when a smoke alarm sounds is to check that there isn’t smoke in the home. Once you’ve determined that there’s no smoke, it’s important to silence the beep so you can focus on what’s causing the noise and then you can fix the issue. The following steps explain how to stop a fire alarm from beeping:

1. Locate the chirping smoke detector, bearing in mind that it may be challenging to pinpoint the location of the right device. Remember that you might have smoke detectors in the attic, as well as in the home’s living spaces. 
2. Consider that the noise might not be coming from a smoke detector at all. Your carbon monoxide alarm may have gotten unplugged, or an aspect of your home security system may need attention. Trace the sound in case the culprit is an alarm clock going off because its alarm button was unintentionally pulled or pushed during routine house cleaning. 
3. If it is a smoke detector, use a ladder to access it safely.
4. Press the “Test/Silence” button on the front of the detector.

If the smoke detector keeps beeping, it may be necessary to remove the device altogether until you can figure out what is going on. Here’s how to remove it:

1. Firmly grasp the detector and turn it counterclockwise until it snaps loose from the base.
2. Open the battery compartment in the back of the device.
3. Remove the battery.
4. For hardwired devices, use a screwdriver to loosen the screws holding the alarm wires in place and remove them from the device. These are low-voltage lines, but DIYers should still take care not to touch the exposed copper ends together.

Note that this is only a temporary solution. Leaving a smoke detector disabled is unsafe. It’s important to look for a permanent, proper fix for the problem right away, and insert a new battery.

Final Thoughts

Smoke detectors save lives, but only if they are functioning and located in the right places. It’s a good idea to test multiple smoke detectors every time you change your clocks, and clean the devices as well, even if they aren’t chirping. Odds are you’ll sleep more soundly knowing your smoke detectors are in good working order.

FAQs

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