One of the most common ways to update the interior of a home is with fresh painted walls and trim. While it can be easier to paint baseboards when the flooring is a hard surface like tile or wood, avoiding painting baseboards with carpet can cause worn trim to stick out and detract from your makeover efforts.

Some may say that the most surefire method for painting baseboards in a carpeted room is to remove the baseboards entirely, paint them in a separate space, then reinstall the baseboards once the paint has dried. However, if you aren’t careful, you can damage the baseboards during removal or reinstallation, making this a risky and time-consuming endeavor. 

Instead, many DIYers touch up baseboard trim and paint the baseboards in place, with great attention and care required to avoid getting paint on the carpet. If you are repainting baseboards in a carpeted room and don’t want to remove the baseboards, follow the steps in this guide to learn how to paint baseboards with carpet.

Before You Begin

There are a few necessary steps you need to take before painting floor molding—baseboards and shoe molding—in order to prepare the area and make sure that you have everything you need on hand to get the ideal baseboard paint finish. First, you will need to head to a local home improvement store to purchase paint and baseboard painting tools, including a paint brush, putty knife, sandpaper, and painter’s tape. It’s also a good idea to find heat-resistant paint for baseboard heaters if the home has these heating appliances. 

Next, it’s important to vacuum the floor before painting baseboards with carpet to get rid of any hair, fluff, or other debris that could mess up the paint job. You will also want to open the windows and doors, as well as setting up a fan to help ventilate the space, especially if you are using paint that is high in volatile organic chemicals (VOCs).

While you can paint baseboards without removing the carpet, you can also try to peel back the carpet and roll it up and out of the way while you work. Since carpet is secured next to the wall with a tack strip, you may be able to lift the carpet off the tack strip to peel it back. However, carpet is often attached to the tack strips under the baseboards, which can make this process difficult. It’s even more difficult to reinstall the carpet when you are done, so this may not be a feasible option for many DIYers based on skill level.  

Step 1: Sand and make any necessary repairs to the baseboards.

Some baseboard painting hacks may skip the sanding and repair process. If the baseboards are in poor condition, touch up any minor damages and sand down any old or peeling paint to prepare the baseboards for a new coat. Otherwise, the finished product will just look like you tried to cover up past mistakes. 

Use 100- to 180-grit sandpaper to sand down the surface of the baseboards using even pressure and back-and-forth strokes. Apply caulk to any small holes or cracks in the baseboards to make simple repairs and then run a fresh bead of caulk along the edge of the baseboard where it meets the wall to fill in any gaps. Just keep in mind that if there is any severe damage, it’s best to replace the damaged baseboard entirely. 

Step 2: Apply painter’s tape and lay down a drop cloth.

The easiest way to paint baseboards in a carpeted room without accidentally painting the carpet is to use painter’s tape to create a protective coating over the carpet nearest the walls. You should also lay down a plastic drop cloth over the rest of the room to avoid dripping paint on exposed carpeting. 

It also helps to use a putty knife to press the tape down and under the baseboards for full protection. Since there is usually a decently sized gap between the carpet and baseboard, this process should be relatively easy. If you aren’t confident in just one layer of painter’s tape, apply a second layer to ensure the paint doesn’t seep through. 

Step 3: Prep the paint brush.

Once the room is ready to go, you can load up the paint brush with paint. It’s recommended to invest in a paint edger brush for superior control while painting. Cover about half of the bristles when dipping the brush into the paint, then use the sides of the paint can or paint tray to wipe off any dripping paint from your brush. Follow this process each time you dip the brush into the paint to reduce the risk of dripping paint on the floor or walls. 

Step 4: Paint the baseboards.

Ultimately, it’s up to you whether to paint the walls or trim first, but once you have started on the baseboards it’s recommended to continue until you are done. Use the loaded-up paint brush to paint along the length of the baseboard either from left to right or from right to left, depending on your personal preference. Just make sure to stick to painting in one direction after you make your choice to achieve the best results. 

Apply one coat, then wait for it to dry before applying another coat, if necessary. Usually two coats of paint is more than enough for the baseboards, so after the paint has dried, you can remove the tape and the drop cloth to complete the project. 

Final Thoughts

Whether you are painting the entire room, updating the baseboards and trim, or just touching up areas around the room, it’s important to protect the floor. While you may be able to wipe up a few drips of paint from hardwood, spilling paint onto carpet creates a significant problem that is difficult to undo without professional cleaning or replacing the carpet entirely. 

With this in mind, when you are painting baseboards in a carpeted room, make sure to take the time to lay down protection and apply painter’s tape under the baseboards to create a secure barrier. Not only will this keep the carpet in good condition, it will also help speed up the painting process, since you can work faster when you don’t have to worry about accidentally painting the carpet.

The post This Is the Easiest Way to Paint Baseboards With Carpet  appeared first on Bob Vila.

There are a wide range of sanders and each is designed for specific uses, such as a detail sander for fine furniture or a benchtop drum sander for sanding large pieces of wood or metal. Belt sanders are another great addition to a lineup of sanding tools, as they offer a variety of uses that make them essential for a woodworker’s or metalworker’s tool kit. 

Belt sanders are typically handheld power tools that can be either corded or battery-powered. These sanders are highly versatile, though they are commonly equipped with coarse-grit sanding belts that can remove substantial amounts of material in a hurry. Use this guide to learn about a range of belt sander uses and projects these tools can handle around the home. 

Our Recommendation: Makita 9903 3″ x 21″ Belt Sander at The Home Depot for $339 
This Makita belt sander features auto-tracking belt alignment to help keep the abrasive belt centered on the track even after several sanding passes, and a built-in dust collection bag that reduces the amount of airborne dust by about 65 percent.

Smooth wooden playground equipment.

Wooden swings, sandboxes, and see-saws can develop rough surfaces that make the playground equipment hazardous for your kids. Without proper maintenance, one wrong move could result in cuts, scrapes, or splinters, which is why it’s a good idea to use a belt sander for smoothing and sanding wood surfaces in order to improve the look and safety of the equipment. 

While you are working, if there are any uneven areas on the wooden playground equipment, you can take the opportunity to use the belt sander for leveling out these spots to reduce the areas where water may otherwise pool. After sanding smooth, seal the wood to prevent weathering.

Prepare a hardwood floor for refinishing.

Refinishing a hardwood floor can reinvigorate the appearance and texture of the floor, giving the room an aesthetic upgrade without the expense of new flooring. Belt sanders are one of the best sanders for hardwood floors because they can be used to quickly and efficiently remove old floor finishes. 

After removing the old finish on the hardwood floor, you can also use a belt sander to prepare the exposed wood for a new finish. Just make sure to work slowly and carefully to avoid removing too much material from the existing hardwood. 

Restore a wood gate, fence, or deck.

When you are still learning how to use a belt sander, it’s a good idea to take on a project where there is room for mistakes, like restoring an old deck. Since decking tends to be made of thick pieces of wood, there’s wiggle room if you oversand a bit. You can usually go back and even out the surface with little issue. 

Deck boards become rough and cracked over time due to exposure to rain, UV radiation, snow, and ice. By using a belt sander to remove old paint or stain, sand away the top layer of material, and level out any uneven spots, you can expose the smooth layers of the wood below. Similarly, a belt sander can be used for the same purpose on a wooden gate or fence boards. Just be sure to sink all of the fasteners below the wood decking before beginning. 

Strip old paint, stain, or varnish.

Many types of sanders can be used to strip old paint, stain, or varnish from a wooden or metal surface, but belt sanders are a top choice due to their ability to quickly and efficiently remove thick layers of material with little effort. However, when you are using a belt sander to strip paint, stain, or varnish, you need to be careful to avoid removing too much material. 

Additionally, if you apply too much pressure to the sander, there is a risk of damaging wood, metal, or even plastic materials, making the job significantly more difficult, so make sure to work slowly and diligently if you plan to tackle this type of project. 

Pro tip: Always practice on a scrap surface in order to develop a level of comfort with a sander.

Sharpen knives and chisels.

A surprising use for belt sanders is sharpening knives, chisels, and other metal tools. However, it’s important to mention that this process takes some time and effort to learn properly, so you should practice with an old knife or chisel the first couple of times in case you make a mistake. 

You can switch between different grit belts to grind, sharpen, hone, and polish the tools to get the ideal result. If you feel it’s too difficult to start with a belt sander, you can also tackle this project with a fixed-base bench sander, allowing you to focus on the tools as you work. 

Shape metal contours.

Using a belt sander on metal may seem counterintuitive at first glance, but the power behind these essential tools allows metalworkers to smooth and shape complex contours into softer metals. You can get the desired shape for the metal by using the continuous movement of the sanding belt to follow the curve of the metal surfaces, while applying light pressure to shape the intended contours. 

However, if you want to create tight curves or cylindrical shapes, you would be better off using a specialized tube belt sander, which is typically designed to wrap the sanding belt around the contours of the metal. 

Level uneven wood, metal, or plastic.

One of the most well-known uses for a belt sander is to level an uneven surface. These tools can be used on wood, metal, or even plastic to quickly and efficiently grind away material, allowing you to smooth and level surfaces. 

The best belt sanders can quickly switch out sanding belts so you can choose the correct grit depending on the amount of material that needs to be removed and the target material you are working with. Carefully move the belt sander across the material to gradually level uneven areas and achieve a flat, even plane.

The post This Is Why You Need a Belt Sander in Your Home Workshop appeared first on Bob Vila.

Next to the lawn mower, a weed eater is perhaps the most essential tool for managing a lawn, allowing you to trim grass that’s up against your house, along fencing, and in other places the blade of your lawn mower can’t reach. A handy tool, but its trimmer line doesn’t last forever. You’ll need to replace the trimmer line from time to time to keep your weed eater doing its job. 

While threading a weed eater with fresh line doesn’t take long, it can be an exercise in frustration if you’ve never done it before. Ahead, we take you step by step through the process of changing out the trimmer line while sharing a few tricks of the trade from a few lawn care pros to help make learning how to restring a weed eater easier. 

Safety Precautions

String trimmer line replacement is a job you should only do with the string trimmer completely powered down. That means cutting off the engine if it’s a gas string trimmer, removing the battery if it’s a cordless electric string trimmer, or pulling the plug if it’s a corded string trimmer. 

How to Restring a String Trimmer

Changing weed eater string requires very few tools and doesn’t take long if you follow the steps below. 

Step 1: Purchase the right line.

Make sure you’re using trimmer line that’s the same thickness as the line you’re replacing or a line thickness that’s compatible with your string trimmer. String trimmer line comes in different thicknesses ranging from light-duty 0.065 inch line up to heavy-duty 0.11 inch line. If you’re not sure what sizes are compatible with your weed eater, check the tool’s manual. 

Pro Tip: Michael Clarke, founder of home and garden site Yardwork, advises selecting a line gauge that suits the job. “For thicker weeds, consider using a heavier gauge line or a twisted line, which are more durable and can handle tougher conditions without wearing out as quickly,” he says. 

Step 2: Remove the cap.

Position the string trimmer on the ground upside down so that the trimmer head is facing upwards, giving you access to the cutting head. Remove the cap that covers the cutting head by pinching the cap on its two tabs or by unscrewing it. Just under the cap you’ll find a spool that holds the trimmer line. Remove the spool and discard any leftover line.

Pro Tip: Jeremy Yamaguchi, owner of Lawn Love, suggests using the old line as a guide. “A mistake a lot of people make is taking out the spool and then taking out the last bit of string without looking at it, and then when they go to attach the new string, they realize they aren’t exactly sure where things go,” Yamaguchi says. “If you just take a few moments to assess how/where the old string is attached—or better yet, take a picture on your phone—that will make installing the new string way easier.”

Step 3: Measure the line. 

The best way to measure the amount of fresh line you need for your string trimmer is to use your arm span, says Mark Clement, home and garden tool reviewer and licensed contractor with MyFixitUpLife. Clement suggests making three pulls of string, extending your arm to its full length with each pull. While the amount you pull will vary depending on your arm length, this method should give you about what you need to fill the spool. 

Step 4. Replace the line. 

Locate the small hole that’s on the spool and insert the trim line into the hole. If your string trimmer has two cutting lines, there will be two channels on the spool (one for each line) and two holes, one for each line. 

Look for an arrow that indicates the direction you should wrap the line and begin wrapping the line around the spool. Be mindful when wrapping the line, Clarke says. “When winding the trimmer line in the spool, keep it tight but not too tight, since a loose line can cause it to get caught or stuck when in use and a tight line can force the line to stick together,” he says. Clarke also warns against overfilling the line, which can cause it to jam. 

After wrapping the line, you’ll need to hold it in place while you reload the spool. “Without letting the sprung line spring out of the channel it’s in, feed each one through the corresponding eyelet of the spool housing, then push the spool back into the housing and twist/lock it into place,” Clement says. 

Note: If you find the process of re-wrapping trimmer line to be more of a hassle than you’re willing to deal with, you can skip the wrapping process by buying replacement spools of trimmer line. These spools are already wrapped with a trimmer line. Rather than re-wrapping the line you simply replace the entire spool. You’ll spend a little more for this convenience, but these pre-loaded spools make the process quicker. If you go this route, be sure to purchase replacement string heads that are compatible with the make and model of your string trimmer. 

Step 5: Install the spool.

The next step is installing the spool, and the method depends on the type of trimmer you own. 

Standard String Trimmer

Place the spool back into the string trimmer, making sure to thread the line into the hole or holes in the spindle as you do. Some string trimmers have grooves that you can drop the line into as you’re installing it. Once the spindle is in place and the lines are extending through the holes, pop the spindle cap back into place. 

Speed Feed String Trimmer

If you have a weed eater with a speed feed head, you don’t need to remove the cutting head. Align the hashmarks on the head, then thread the line into one of the eyelets on the head and push it through and out the other eyelet. 

Pro Tip: Given that line comes wrapped in a coil and you need to push it through a straight channel, threading it through both eyelets can be a challenge. To make the process easier, Clement suggests straightening some of the line first. “Flex the curve out of the first foot of line by straightening it,” he says. 

Clement adds that the hashmark guides typically wear away after a few months of use. If that’s the case with your speed feed trimmers, you’ll need to rotate the spindle by pressing down on the head repeatedly until you can look through one eyelet and see out the eyelet on the other side. 

Once the line is through, make sure there is an even amount of line on each side of the head, then turn the base of the head to wind the string into the trimmer. 

Step 6: Set the line length.

Set the line length by pressing the head of the string trimmer, then use your fingers to pull out the line. You should be able to pull out a few inches of line with each press. If the line doesn’t come out, then you’ve made a mistake loading it, and you’ll need to start over. Repeat the process until the line is to the desired length. Don’t pull the line out far enough that it can come into contact with the shield that is around the head. 

Final Thoughts

Having to pause to replace string trimmer line in your weed eater should only cause a minor delay in your summertime yard work ritual. But if you don’t know how to install trimmer line, what could be a quick and easy job can quickly spiral into a time-wasting struggle. By following the above instructions and tips, you can make quick work of this job and get back to beautifying your lawn. 

FAQ About Stringing a Weed Eater

If you have lingering concerns about how to string a weed eater, here are some helpful answers to popular questions.

The post How to String a Weed Eater the Right Way appeared first on Bob Vila.

Looking out into your picturesque backyard is something to be grateful for, but dirty and smudged windows can taint your view. For decades, people cleaned their windows with newspaper and vinegar since it was an easy and inexpensive option that didn’t leave behind residue or streaks and helped reuse old papers.   

However, newspaper for windows is a cleaning hack that does not work anymore for several reasons. Fortunately, there are much better methods to clean windows, mirrors, and other glass surfaces. Here are the reasons why newspapers are no longer a good choice and some better tools for cleaning windows. 

Newspaper isn’t as strong as it used to be.

In the past, newspapers were made with much thicker paper. The cheaper paper today doesn’t hold up as well as it used to, making the material less suitable for cleaning glass. “Today’s newspapers are thinner and less absorbent, meaning they can fall apart easily, leaving behind fibers and a mess,” says Leon Hansraj, CEO and founder of Gridlock Services, a commercial cleaning company based in Orlando, Florida.

Muffetta Krueger, cleaning expert and founder of Muffetta’s Housekeeping in Westchester County, New York, agrees. “Today’s newspapers are much thinner and more fragile, making them prone to tearing and leaving behind lint and residue.”

The ink used today makes it more difficult to clean glass.

The ink used to print newspaper content is also different from past ink types, and ink smudging is now a problem. “Unlike older newspapers with oil-based ink, modern newspapers use soy-based ink, which can smudge and leave streaks on glass,” says Krueger. Another issue is ink transfer. “The ink can transfer onto your hands and window frames, creating extra mess rather than a spotless finish,” she adds. 

Most households don’t receive printed newspapers anymore.

The days of paperboys and papergirls are long gone. It’s now rare for households to get print newspapers delivered. In fact, it’s hard to find a printed newspaper even in supermarkets anymore. Instead, people receive their news online. Therefore, this material is no longer on hand to use for tasks like cleaning windows and mirrors. “With fewer people receiving physical newspapers, it’s a less practical choice,” says Hansraj.

Windows can get scratched.

As both the materials involved in producing newspapers and glass have changed over the years, the potential for scratching has increased. “Windows manufactured in the last approximately 7 years have a protective coating and/or tints that can be damaged by the abrasive texture of newspaper, essentially rubbing off the layer of coating,” says Aaron Reed, butler and estate manager at The Butler’s Choice in Portland, Oregon. “There’s also a risk of micro-scratches since some newspapers contain synthetic materials,” adds Hansraj.

Try these better window-cleaning alternatives instead:

Forget the newspaper hack. There are more effective ways to achieve a streak-free shine on windows, mirrors, and other glass surfaces. 

Microfiber Cloths

Experts agree that soft microfiber cloths are an excellent option for removing dust and debris from glass surfaces. “They are highly effective at trapping dust and moisture, leaving glass spotless without streaks or lint. Plus, they’re reusable and eco-friendly” says Krueger. Look for well-made microfiber cloths that are tightly woven together. If you hold one up to the light and see no light poking through, then you know you have a high-quality product. 

Squeegees

Another favorite tool, according to experts, is a squeegee, which has a thin piece of rubber, like a blade, on the end that is perfect for washing windows. It is abrasive enough to loosen dirt but will not damage the glass. With squeegees, you also can cover a larger area than with a balled-up newspaper or cloth, so you save some time. The handle on most squeegees helps you more easily clean hard-to-reach windows without standing on a ladder. Finally, squeegees are reusable, so you won’t need a new one every time you want to clean a glass surface in your home.

“We use professional-grade squeegees with gentle but effective cleaning solutions to remove grime without damaging the glass,” says Hansraj. They are effective because they ensure that you remove all the soap and water from the window, producing a streak-free shine. Krueger adds: “A high-quality squeegee with a bit of dish soap in warm water ensures a professional-grade clean without leaving streaks.”

Other Types of Cleaning Cloths

Krueger also recommends some other types of cleaning cloths. Look for glass-specific cleaning cloths that are specially designed to be lint-free, she says. “Also, reusable cleaning pads are another great eco-friendly choice, offering excellent cleaning power without waste,” says Krueger.

Coffee Filters

Another interesting option is to try wiping with a coffee filter. This inexpensive household staple is lint-free and won’t leave behind any residue. Just spray some cleaner and wipe with a coffee filter. Depending on how absorbent the filters are, you may need to use more than one at a time.

DIY Cleaners 

You can make your own homemade glass cleaner to apply with one of these newspaper alternatives. Experts agree that the most effective and natural cleaning solution for your home is a mixture of water and vinegar. “For eco-conscious cleaning, a simple vinegar and water solution works wonders, breaking down dirt and leaving windows sparkling,” says Hansraj. Just mix equal parts white vinegar and water, spray it on the glass, and wipe with a microfiber cloth, says Krueger. Just keep in mind that a DIY cleaner is great for indoor windows, but might not be as effective on outdoor windows, which could require a professional strength cleaner to tackle the dirt, debris, and pollen that builds up outdoors from weather, air pollution, and other factors. 

The post This Old School Cleaning Hack Simply Doesn’t Work Anymore appeared first on Bob Vila.

Renovating a home—whether you’re DIYing, hiring contractors, or a combination of both—can be a long, stressful process with many bumps in the road. To ensure it goes as smoothly as possible, you’ll want to capture the details by taking renovation photos. 

If you haven’t guessed by now, the one tool every homeowner needs during a home renovation project is a reliable camera. In this digital age, with so many camera options available (including on your phone), images speak volumes. Taking photos captures memories as you transform your home, plus those photos can be an indispensable resource for the entire renovation process from start to finish.

This article explains several reasons why it’s important to take a lot of photos before, during, and after a home renovation, especially the projects you’re DIYing. 

Keep track of progress throughout the renovation project.

Probably the most obvious reason to bring out a camera during a renovation is to capture each step along the way. Progress pictures can help demonstrate what is happening and how quickly it is getting done. Seeing such accomplishments can help assure you that the project is moving along as planned or whether you need to step in and find out why the contractor’s progress is slow.  

“I always tell people to snap pictures every single time they visit the job site—yes, even when the lighting is terrible,” says Alice T. Chan, an interior renovation and design specialist, professional home stager, and home-selling strategist with the Southeast home renovation company Freemodel, who was also the co-host and designer for HGTV’s reality real estate show, Power Broker. “It feels like nothing is happening, or it doesn’t seem worth it. Trust me, those photos can save you so much stress (and money) down the road,” she says.

Progress pictures can also help track who is completing which parts of the project, especially when the work involves multiple contractors. They can help you tell whether the plumber, electrician, general contractor, or a subcontractor worked on a specific part of your house so you’ll know who is responsible for any mistakes. 

Finally, collecting photos can help you more effectively communicate with everyone involved in the project. You can provide clear feedback and avoid misunderstandings by sharing images with contractors. 

Have a record of what lies beneath the surface.

Renovation photos also can help you record what’s in places you typically can’t see, such as wires and plumbing behind walls and flooring hidden under carpet. “Taking photos will help you keep track of where the nuts and bolts of the home lie as you peel away each layer,” says Natalie Warady, who styles, stages, designs, and renovates homes in Colorado. 

“At each step of the process, you might need to reroute wiring or you might discover some hidden but important length of plumbing,” says Warady. When she found out that the only access to her bath plumbing was directly behind the kitchen cabinets, she had to reconfigure the kitchen design to accommodate access, and it helped to have pictures. “By keeping the images, you can track where you’ve been and also flag previously concealed areas that are important to know going forward in the process and if you need to gain access.”

Recall product details.

A very practical reason to take photos is to have a record of basic information like brand names, model numbers, and paint colors that you choose throughout the renovation. You might think it’s easy to remember, but if you take a slow approach to renovating, lots can happen in that time. Having pictures of what products look like and their item or model numbers might save you time and hassle down the road if you need to replace or repaint anything, especially if disaster strikes. It is helpful to date each picture and include notes such as in which room the item is, as well as when and where you purchased it. 

Have visuals to show a contractor you may hire in the future.

Having photos of your home throughout one renovation can help if you ever decide to hire another contractor in the future. The photos create a visual record of the “before” and “after” that can help the next contractor fully understand what’s involved in the work they need to do. When you take pictures of pipes behind a wall, for example, this can inform a contractor whether work involves getting behind that wall. Not only will these images help the contractor better plan their work, but it can prevent an expensive mistake from occurring. 

Help celebrate your home’s transformation.

Completing a renovation is extremely satisfying, and documenting the entire process can make it all the more meaningful. “Taking a variety of photos throughout each stage of a renovation gives you something tangible to look back on and remember just how much your home has grown and changed with you,” says Amber Brandt, an interior decorator at The Coziness Consultant. Friends and family may also appreciate reviewing the photos as they admire your newly refurbished home or if you have a renovation reveal open house. 

Use the images if you decide to sell your home.

If you decide to put your house on the market, you’ll be grateful you have “before” and “after” photos to include in the listing. Showcasing the improvements you invested in might impress potential buyers and help you sell your home for a higher price and recoup a large percentage of the money you spent during the renovation. It also helps present the potential of the space in case the new owners want to make additional changes once they buy the house. Finally, the pictures can prove that you already addressed problems in the house, making it much easier for the buyers once they move in. 

Share photos with permitting agencies and insurance companies. 

In the event of damage or accidents during the renovation, it’s crucial to have pictures to send to the insurance company. Photos are also beneficial if you need to prove that you have taken steps to remedy a structural or building code issue that might affect permits or property insurance. Finally, images are also useful to submit along with a home warranty.  

The post The One Tool Every Homeowner Needs During a Big Reno appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you’re looking for ways to make your backyard more fun, why not build a horseshoe pit? There’s more than one way to approach this easy, inexpensive project, but the basics hold true no matter your approach. Read on for a full tutorial on how to build a horseshoe pit for entertainment for all ages, all season long.

Step 1: Measure your space.

In a “regulation” pit, horseshoe pit dimensions require that stakes be exactly 40 feet apart. Those stakes should sit within a box that, while at least 31 by 43 inches, measures no larger than 36 by 72 inches. Common horseshoe pit dimensions for backyard play is 36 by 48 inches. You can make only one box, but horseshoes technically involves two boxes: one for stakes and one for pitching. So in all, a 48-by-6-foot rectangular area must be set aside for the game. 

Note: Orient your pits in a north/south direction so that you can play comfortably, without your face in direct sunlight.

Step 2: Build the horseshoe boxes.

Assuming a pair of 36 by 48-inch horseshoe pits, you will need to cut eight pieces of lumber—that is, four pieces measuring 36 inches and four pieces measuring 48 inches. Using fasteners appropriate for the lumber you’ve chosen, assemble the wood pieces into two identical rectangular boxes.

Tried-and-True Advice

 

“My husband and I had plenty of leftover lumber from previous projects, so we just cobbled together what we had. Our horseshoe pits probably won’t win any design awards, but they were cheap and they work! We used leftover plywood to make a tall back and sides to keep wayward horseshoes contained. We spray painted everything to give the unmatched pieces a somewhat more cohesive look. Yes, the horseshoes have banged it up, but, you know… it has character.

Another thing to think about: You’ll want to run a rake through your pits before starting up a game, as neighborhood (and maybe your own) cats will almost certainly find the sand irresistible.”

—Gretchen Heber, Contributing Editor and Writer

Step 3: Set the boxes.

You can get away with simply setting your boxes on the ground, but it’s a better idea to dig trenches so that each box can sit flush to the ground. If you want, line the bottom of each horseshoe pit with landscape fabric to suppress weed growth and keep sand from sinking into the dirt.

Step 4: Set the stakes.

Set the stakes a minimum of 21 inches from the front of the box. Be sure the stakes are sticking up about 14 or 15 inches from the ground. Drive the stakes on a bias, so they lean toward the other pit at a slight angle of about 3 inches.

Step 5: Fill the pits with sand.

Fill both pits with sand. The type used for sandboxes is the best and most accessible in stores. Depending on the exact dimensions of the boxes you’ve built, expect to use five or six bags of sand to fill each pit. 

If you want to invest more real estate and effort, you can upgrade your pit with backboards and pitching platforms. Most of the time, however, a no-frills design is more than enough to enthrall players of all ages and skill levels. If only “scoring a ringer” were as easy as it is to build a horseshoe pit!

The post How to Build a Horseshoe Pit appeared first on Bob Vila.

With prices on the rise and sustainability being top-of-mind, thrifting is becoming an attractive activity for more and more people. But discovering that one person’s trash can be your treasure is even more thrilling if you can then resell these items for a profit. Yes, you can take the home goods you grabbed for a steal at secondhand stores, estate sales, and flea markets and flip them into a lucrative hobby or side business. 

Indeed, the resale market has emerged as a goldmine for savvy thrifters who know how to spot valuable items that others will want to snag up quickly. Home design expert Jasmine Charbonier of Tampa, Florida, highlights the following factors that ensure an item is flip-worthy: has brand recognition, is made of quality materials, meets current design trends, is easy to clean and transport, and doesn’t need major repairs. 

Keep reading to learn more about the best items to thrift and resell, including where to find used home items and the top platforms to resell them on later.

Best Places to Source Used Items

To get started, you’ll want to browse everything from secondhand stores to social media to estate sales in order to find the best buys. Be mindful of some common pitfalls of thrifting, warns Charbonier. “Don’t buy anything with strong odors (they rarely come out), pass on items with structural damage, and stay away from recalled items or brands,” she says. 

Here are some favorite places to find used home goods: 

• Social media, selling apps, and online communities like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, Nextdoor, and OfferUp. 
• Online auction sites like eBay and HiBid.
• Websites like 1stDibs, Chairish, Etsy, Mercari, and Poshmark.
• National secondhand stores like Goodwill (also online), Habitat for Humanity’s ReStores, and The Salvation Army Thrift Stores. 
• Local thrift stores and consignment shops.
• Estate sales and garage sales. 

Top Ways to Resell Goods

When it’s time to resell those items, you’ll want to get them ready to list on the best outlets to reach as many customers as possible. Charbonier suggests cleaning and repairing items thoroughly before listing them. Stage home items and take well-lit photos to market them effectively. Also, write detailed descriptions with measurements and brand names.

Where you decide to sell your thrifted finds depends on the type of item you have and who you are trying to reach. “I recommend using online marketplaces like eBay and Facebook Marketplace for quick sales of home goods,” says Nataliya Zhestkova, co-founder of Ecualama, a company specializing in handcrafted products. “You can also create an Instagram account dedicated to selling your resold finds, which is perfect for reaching a design-conscious audience.” 

She also enjoys selling through Etsy if the items are vintage or have a unique or artistic flair. Lastly, hosting a pop-up shop or setting up at a local flea market can help you make face-to-face connections and move large quantities of items quickly, she says. Other options include Amazon, Chairish, and consignment shops where you get a percentage of the sale.   

Best Home Goods to Source and Flip for Profit

Certain categories of home items are always in demand. Here are the top home goods to resell, according to experts. 

1. Antique and Vintage Furniture

Reselling antique and vintage furniture is probably the most common way to turn thrifting into a sale. “Antique and vintage furniture pieces can bring amazing returns if you know what to look for,” says Charbonier. “Danish modern and mid-century pieces are super hot right now.” She suggests heading to thrift stores and estate sales to look for tables, dressers, and accent chairs made with solid wood construction and popular brands like Herman Miller or Knoll, which can sell for five to 10 times what you pay.  

Ryan McDonald of Huntington Beach, California, and COO of Resell Calendar, an e-commerce platform for resellers, agrees and believes you can add value through minor restoration. He has purchased vintage wooden chairs for under 30 dollars, sanded and refinished them, and resold them for a 150 percent profit. “Restoration doesn’t have to be extensive—even a fresh coat of paint or swapping out hardware on cabinets can elevate an item’s appeal. Buyers love ready-to-use pieces, so any effort you put into making an item immediately functional or stylish pays off,” he says.

2. Mirrors

Decorative mirrors can turn into fantastic flips. “Large or ornate mirrors often have excellent resale potential with just a bit of frame repair or painting,” says Mike Milad, a home design professional and owner of RGB House Painters in London, Ontario, who previously made money repainting furniture as a side gig. Look for mirrors with antique finishes and ornate designs to attract the most attention. 

3. Outdoor Furniture

If you are crafty, try purchasing old outdoor furniture—such as metal patio sets, wooden benches, and wicker chairs—to revamp and turn a profit. “People are tired of molded plastic and wooden Adirondack chairs, and this means that vintage styles, including wicker as well as 1980s-style metal with plastic mesh, are increasingly popular,” explains Mike Fretto, co-founder and creative director at the outdoor furniture store Neighbor in Sayville, New York. “Wicker, in particular, is easy to repair and rehab even if it’s in pretty rough shape, and is popular in higher-end designs,” says Fretto.

4. Linens

Dr. Marcia Layton Turner is an eBay top-rated seller and author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Staging Your Home to Sell. Since shipping big, bulky items takes more time and expertise, she prefers to stick to smaller, lightweight items. “I’ve done really well with bedding—comforters, quilts, duvet covers, and sheets, for example—which I can buy for a dollar or two at the Goodwill clearance center and resell for many times that. I’ve found Pendleton wool blankets that have sold for $150-plus quickly,” she notes.

5. Light Fixtures

Light fixtures are among the best items to thrift and resell, since savvy thrifters can find all kinds of light fixtures secondhand. “Floor lamps, chandeliers, and table lamps with unique designs can be rewired or updated with a fresh finish and new shades,” says Milad. Vintage lighting fixtures, such as chandeliers or brass lamps, are also hot items that you can clean up and resell for a significant margin, says Chenise Freidus, home stager and business manager at ZFC Real Estate in Boca Raton, Florida.

6. Small Appliances and Kitchen Gadgets

Don’t overlook small appliances and kitchen gadgets when reselling used items, especially if they are in excellent condition or from well-known brands, says Zhestkova. Milad adds, “Vintage cast iron pans, Pyrex, and copper cookware are highly collectible and in demand.” Giving small appliances new life helps buyers restock or redecorate more sustainably. 

7. Gardening Items

If you are an avid gardener, then you might enjoy buying and reselling gardening tools. Laura Janney, CEO of The Inspired Garden in New York, has had much success buying and selling gardening-related items. “I have bought beautiful containers, furniture, and other decor for indoor and outdoor on the cheap and resell often on my local Facebook groups,” she notes. 

Some other items she has found include urns and other types of planters, statues and sculptures, outdoor art, outdoor furniture, decorative benches, and shelves for outdoor spaces. She typically finds goods at flea markets and thrift stores. “It’s really hard to say how much profit I make. I think the planters are the most popular; I would say 50 percent markup,” says Janney.

8. Vintage Rugs

Reselling vintage rugs, particularly Persian or Turkish rugs, can also be a lucrative endeavor. “Even those with wear can command significant resale value since buyers aren’t necessarily looking for perfection; they want character and authenticity,” says McDonald. He has seen rugs purchased for $50 at estate sales resell for more than $200 on platforms like Chairish. “The key here is understanding the appeal of these rugs as both functional and decorative investments; they instantly elevate a space, making them irresistible to interior enthusiasts. My pro tip: always check the tags for origin and material. Natural fibers like wool or silk add value,” he says.

The post Love Thrifting and Tag Sales? Buy These 8 Items to Resell appeared first on Bob Vila.

Peeling up vinyl flooring is no picnic, but the real trial is to get rid of the glue that had been securing the vinyl to the subfloor.

The only silver lining here is that while the work may be tedious and time-consuming, anyone can learn how to remove vinyl flooring. No special tools or advanced skills are required—it’s really only a matter of putting in the work.

Carpet, hardwood, vinyl, and tile flooring.

Bob Vila has partnered with Empire Today to help you easily get beautiful new floors at a great price.
Free In-Home Estimates

Before You Begin

Until the mid-1980s, asbestos often served as an ingredient in vinyl flooring products. If you know that the flooring you’re removing has been around that long, or if you’re not certain how old the vinyl floor is, you’ll want to test for asbestos before you move forward. It’s a good idea to hire a professional to do this.

4 Steps to Removing Vinyl Flooring

Step 1: Remove furniture and baseboards from the room.

To remove vinyl flooring, you must first take all furniture out of the room and give yourself unimpeded access to the work area. You’ll also need to carefully remove all baseboards and any other trim that meets the floor.

Step 2: Cut flooring into 12-inch strips.

Next, locate a section of the floor with no glue underneath. Start removing vinyl flooring right here, using a utility knife to cut the material into 12-inch strips.

Pull up each one gently. Where you encounter resistance from the glue, use a scraper tool (or even a kitchen spatula) to get the strip loose. In places where the glue is especially tenacious, you can use a hammer-and-chisel combination to chip at the hardened adhesive.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I like to remove a small section [of vinyl] before strategizing for the entire floor. Find an edge and peel, cut and scrape as necessary to expose the edge tape. If the vinyl is only taped, the center sections will peel away easily. If glue is present, use a thin-edged flooring scraper while pulling strips of vinyl away. Adding a solvent or soap mixture can help to soften and release the glue. Heat from a hair dryer or heat gun is also useful, but vinyl will melt with too much concentrated heat so be cautious when a heat gun is present.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

 

Step 3: Get rid of the glue.

One of the downsides of vinyl flooring is that its adhesive makes the flooring tough to remove. If you remove the vinyl flooring but there’s glue remaining on the subfloor, try this: Mix warm water and soap in a bucket, then apply it liberally to the glue, allowing time for the mixture to soak in. When you return, the glue will have softened and become easier to remove.

If that doesn’t work, it’s time to bring some heat into the equation. Buy or rent a heat gun—or in a pinch, use your hair dryer—and hold it directly over the stubborn adhesive long enough to soften the glue (but not long enough to cause any damage to the subfloor). Then go at the glue with your trusty scraper.

Step 4: Clean up.

The last step to removing vinyl flooring is some final cleanup: Use a broom or shop vac to remove all remaining debris.

Another Way to Remove Vinyl Flooring

If this process seems like way too much work, another option is to rent a power scraper from your local home improvement center, which will make quicker work of things. If you opt for the power scraper, be sure to test it first in an inconspicuous area; you will need to adjust its angle so that it removes only the vinyl-and-glue layer, not the underlying subfloor. Score the vinyl into 10-inch sections with the utility knife, then turn on the scraper and get busy.

The post How to Remove Vinyl Flooring appeared first on Bob Vila.

While epoxy’s ability to make tight bonds between a variety of surfaces makes it a great solution for a wide range of repair projects, its two-part application makes it one of the messier adhesives to work with. Since epoxy often sets quickly once mixed, getting it off unintended surfaces can be a challenge. Fortunately, there are simple methods for removing epoxy, whether you’re removing it from wood, metal, or skin. Keep reading to learn the tricks to undoing this seemingly permanent glue.

What Is Epoxy?

Epoxy is an adhesive you can use to bond a variety of materials, including wood, glass, concrete, metal, and stone, making it one of the more versatile adhesives out there. (It can even be used to give old kitchen countertops a glossy update.) Plus, it’s cheap, creates a durable bond, and is easier on the environment than other glues and adhesives. Epoxy comes in two separate parts, a resin and a hardener. You have to mix the two parts just before applying the adhesive. Once mixed, the hardener transforms the epoxy resin into a hard plastic substance that creates a bond between the two materials you’re gluing together.

How to Remove Epoxy From Skin

Wearing disposable gloves is a good first line of defense when working on an epoxy project, but accidents can happen. If you do get some epoxy on your skin, remove it immediately before it cures using one of the following methods:

• Vinegar: Soak a paper towel or cloth with vinegar and stroke it on the affected area until the epoxy softens enough to peel off.
• Acetone: If the vinegar fails, apply acetone or an acetone-based nail polish remover, which can dissolve uncured epoxy. Pour some acetone onto a paper towel and apply it to the glue to remove it, then rinse your skin thoroughly. Acetone vapors can be strong, so use it in a well-ventilated space.
• Citrus-based hand cleaners: Commonly used for grease removal by mechanics, citrus-based hand cleaners can also remove epoxy from your skin. Pour a small amount directly on the affected skin and rub to remove the adhesive. Wipe off or rinse under warm water; repeat if necessary. After the epoxy is removed, thoroughly wash the area and use hand lotion to soothe and heal your skin.

Safety Tip: While epoxy coming into contact with your skin isn’t a major cause for alarm, the resin can be a skin irritant and cause an allergic reaction for some people. Consider wearing gloves while using epoxy if you’re concerned about the glue coming into contact with your skin.

How to Remove Epoxy From Plastic or Glass

Epoxy might provide a quick fix for repairing broken plastic pieces or sealing a cracked window pane, but it can be a pain to remove excess glue from these surfaces. Follow the steps below to remove it:

1. Soak a paper towel in isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and rub it on the surface until the epoxy loosens. If the alcohol isn’t effective, try using a stronger solvent such as denatured alcohol or paint thinner.
2. Using a scraper tool, gently pry the epoxy from the surface.
3. Once the epoxy is removed, use a clean, wet rag to remove any remaining solvents from the surface.

How to Remove Epoxy From Concrete or Wood

Finishing a garage floor with epoxy paint is a popular use of the product, but sometimes the resin can get in places it’s not supposed to go. Avoid using alcohol and paint thinners, which can damage or discolor wood finishes and cause pitting in concrete. Instead, try the methods below:

• Acetone: Apply the acetone to the area with a cloth and rub it into the surface. The idea is to get the acetone to surround and loosen the epoxy, making it easy to peel away. Give it about 5 minutes to soak in. Using a scraper, gently work the epoxy loose. Any excess acetone will evaporate.
• Heat gun: Pull on leather work gloves to protect your hands and hold a heat gun, set to about 200 degrees Fahrenheit, several inches above the affected area. Move the nozzle in small circles to heat the epoxy evenly and avoid creating burn marks on the concrete or wood. Once the epoxy has softened, use a scraper to remove it from the wood or concrete.

Tried-and-True Advice

“One trick I’ve found helpful when working with epoxy on small projects is to keep a small bowl of sand or baking soda nearby. If epoxy drips accidentally onto surface or your tools, sprinkling sand or baking soda over the spill immediately absorbs the excess and prevents it from spreading further. Once the epoxy has hardened, the gritty surface makes it easier to scrape off without damaging the material underneath. This tip saved me from ruining a DIY project!”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

How to Remove Epoxy From Metal and Hard Surfaces

The above removal techniques using acetone or a heat gun will also work on errant epoxy that dripped on metal or other hard, nonporous surfaces, such as metal door jambs or your favorite toolbox. If acetone fails, try the methods below:

• Chemical: Try a chemical adhesive remover, usually sold in hardware stores as sprays or liquids meant to be applied with a cloth. Be sure to wear gloves to protect your skin when using these chemicals and carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Spray refrigerant: Use a refrigerant spray on the offending epoxy to freeze it. After spraying the epoxy, it should become brittle, making it easy to chip away with a scraper. Spray refrigerant is also a dangerous chemical, so gear up with safety goggles and gloves and work in a well-ventilated area when using it.

How to Remove Epoxy From Fabrics

If you’ve found a dollop of epoxy on your work clothes, there is a way to remove the epoxy without ruining the fabric. Acetone or paint thinners may discolor or dissolve fabrics, while abrasive methods like scraping could easily damage the delicate weave of the material. That leaves heating the epoxy as the easiest way to loosen and peel it away: Dip the fabric in a pot of boiling water for a few seconds at a time, then lift it out of the water with tongs to gently peel away the epoxy. (Since it will be hot, wear rubber kitchen gloves or use cooking utensils instead of your fingers.)

Fabrics such as cotton and linen won’t be damaged by boiling water, but beware of melting synthetic fabrics or shrinking wool. For fabrics that cannot withstand heat, try rubbing with—or soaking in—vinegar before washing in cool water.

Epoxy Removal Tips

• Time is of the essence when attempting to remove epoxy. While it’s possible to remove epoxy once it’s cured, it’s much easier to remove it while it’s still in the drying process.
• The above methods are for removing small amounts of epoxy from small areas. If you’re trying to remove epoxy adhesive or paint from a large area, such as a concrete garage floor, then you’ll need to use a large machine, such as a grinder or industrial scraper.
• If you’re using a solvent to remove epoxy, try testing the solvent first on an inconspicuous part of the material to make sure it doesn’t damage it.

The post How to Remove Epoxy From Different Surfaces appeared first on Bob Vila.

Putting a new face on tired-looking home accents can be as simple as brushing on a few coats of paint. But if you want to achieve a unique antique-style finish, think outside the conventional can of latex paint and opt for chalk paint instead.

A water-based decorative paint developed and made popular by Annie Sloan, chalk paint is a nondamaging blend of calcium carbonate, talc, and pigments that delivers a whimsical matte white finish with chalk-white undertones. It has become the veneer of choice for DIYers looking to revive their outdated wooden furnishings, although it’s also suitable for use on masonry, drywall, metal, glass, and fabric.

Before You Begin

If it’s at all feasible, work on your paint project indoors. Chalk paint adheres best at room temperature. Protect the floor of your work space from paint splatter by laying out newspaper or a drop cloth under the piece you’re painting.

How to Apply Chalk Paint

How much chalk paint should you purchase for your project? Typically, a liter of chalk paint can cover 140 square feet, which is roughly the surface area of a small dresser. It is also possible to make your own chalk paint, though you aren’t likely to save a lot of money by doing so unless you already have latex paint at home.

Step 1: Remove hardware.

Detach any removable elements, such as cushions, shelves, drawers, hinges, knobs, and hardware, from the workpiece.

Step 2: Prepare surfaces for painting.

Preparing furniture to be painted is pretty straightforward: Chalk paint can adhere to most surfaces, so there’s no need to sand wood furniture (even if you’re working with varnished wood pieces), or prime it, before introducing the chalk paint. That said, there are some furniture finishes that will need special preparation before chalk paint is applied.

• Paint-covered, rust-covered, or high-gloss surfaces like laminates could use a light sanding with 150-grit or finer sandpaper in order to remove obstacles to adhesion.
• Untreated wood should have a coat of clear shellac applied with a cloth rag before chalk paint is applied. Cure the shellac according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This coat prevents tannins in the wood from bleeding into the paint and altering the color.

Before applying chalk paint, clean furniture and other items carefully: Using a soft cloth saturated in soapy water, wipe down the entire surface of the piece to lift dirt, debris, oil, and sanding dust. Give the surface a once-over with a clean, damp cloth, then let it dry completely. Cover any areas you don’t want to paint with painter’s tape.

Step 3: Apply the first coat of chalk paint.

Before opening the paint can, turn it upside down to loosen the contents, then shake it to ensure that the chalk paint is well mixed.

Depending on the size of the object you’re painting, you can use a brush, roller, or spray gun to apply chalk paint.

• To apply chalk paint with a brush: For a smooth, uniform finish, choose a natural-bristle paint brush with long, flexible bristles. Dip the brush into the can, and tap the handle against the lid of the can to remove excess paint. Then, apply the paint in unidirectional strokes to one section of the piece at a time until the entire surface is covered.
• To apply chalk paint with a paint roller: Pour the chalk paint into a paint tray, then load it onto a high-density foam paint roller (depending on the size of the furniture, a 4-inch mini roller may be the best option). Scrape off the excess paint on the grid of the pan. Roll a thin layer of paint in a long, unidirectional stroke, then pull it back and make one more stroke in the original direction. Repeat this process until the entire surface is coated.
• To apply chalk paint with a paint sprayer: Chalk paint is a naturally thick medium that may not flow readily from all paint sprayers. One fix for this problem is to water down the chalk paint (adding approximately 2 tablespoons of water for every cup of paint) before loading it into the gun. Or, you can load the paint as is and operate the gun at maximum pressure, preferably with a spray tip measuring at least 1.8 millimeters to enable the fluid to flow. To avoid damaging your spray gun, test this method on a small, inconspicuous area of the piece before tackling larger areas.

Allow the first coat to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I love how resilient chalk paint is when working over different surface types. Temperature is the most important variable for adhesion, so set the thermostat to 65 degrees indoors before painting. This makes a surprising difference and allows the paint to set properly. For outdoor application, choose a day with mild but warm temperatures for the same reason.

We have a habit of thoroughly prepping and cleaning surfaces for painting. Chalk paint offers an exception to the normal paint-prep rules. When painting furniture and wood surfaces especially, moderate to little prep is required. Skip the heavy sanding and jump right into the painting process.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 4: Apply a second coat of paint, if needed.

A single coat of chalk paint is sufficient for many applications. If, however, you need to cover any visual imperfections, or if you want to create a two-tone decorative finish in which the bottom layer of paint shows through around the distressed edges, you can opt to apply a second coat in the same color or a lighter shade.

Step 5: Distress the surface with medium-grit sandpaper (optional).

Examine the finish. If you want a more polished matte look, keep it as is. Otherwise, to achieve a subtly worn patina, distress the painted surface with medium-grit sandpaper, focusing on the edges or details you want to accentuate.

Step 6: Apply wax sealer.

When you’re happy with the finish, seal the paint with one or more coats of clear or tinted wax, gently massaging the wax into the painted surface with a soft wax brush. As a rule of thumb, use a 500-milliliter tin of wax for every 3 to 4 liters of paint. Although wax can dry in less than a half hour, it’s best to let it sit overnight. Total curing of the wax can take up to 3 weeks, although the furniture is ready to use as soon as the wax is dry.

Step 7: Replace hardware.

Reinstall hardware, shelving, or other elements that you you removed from the piece, and let your upcycled accent piece shine!

The post How to Use Chalk Paint appeared first on Bob Vila.

Keeping your home clean can be a challenge. When you have limited mobility—whether due to a recent injury or a chronic condition—it can seem nearly impossible. Fortunately, making a few modifications to your cleaning routine or the tools and products you use can make a huge difference in your ability to keep your home clean. Continue reading to learn some accessible house cleaning tips and tricks to prevent mobility limitations from standing in your way of having a clean home to enjoy.

1. Switch to lightweight cleaning tools.

If you’re still using your ancient vacuum that weighs a ton or any other heavy cleaning tools and products, now is the time to make a switch. “It may not seem like it, but carting a heavy vacuum around the whole house will actually wear you out. Find lightweight tools that you can easily drag or carry on your lap,” recommends Chris Willatt, the founder of Alpine Maids, a company that provides home cleaning services in the Denver, Colorado, area. You’ll find that there are many lightweight stick vacuums on the market—such as the Bissell Cleanview XR Pet Cordless Vacuum. Many of these are cordless, so you also won’t need to worry about navigating between outlets to unplug or re-plugin the machine.

2. Grab a grabber tool to help you.

If bending down to pick up things or reach inside the washer or dryer is a challenge, then a grabber tool, such as the RMS Featherweight The Original Reacher, may be the ideal solution. These tools can help you extend your reach. Simply squeeze the trigger using your hands to open or close the claw at the base of the long arm. Some more advanced models may also offer a rotating head to help you work at the most comfortable angle for each task.

3. Spread tasks out over several days or weeks.

“Cleaning does not have to be done in a day, and cutting it up into multiple weeks can often make the chore more manageable,” says Willatt. Instead of trying to clean your whole house in a single day, he recommends spreading tasks out over several weeks to limit fatigue or stress. “Pick a room a week to clean and clean your house over a month. If you get tired, stop cleaning and push your schedule back a week,” says Willatt.

4. Try some tricks that will lessen your workload.

Learning tricks that will lessen your workload isn’t cheating—it’s working smarter and can help keep your cleaning tasks much more manageable. For example, instead of scrubbing the stuck-on gunk on the inside of your microwave, cut up a lemon and place it in a microwave-safe bowl. Heat the bowl in the microwave for a few minutes and let it sit for a few additional minutes to cool. After removing it, wipe down the inside of the appliance—the hot and steamy lemon juice should have loosened the gunk, making it easier to wipe clean. 

Another cleaning trick is to hang your wrinkled laundry in the bathroom while you shower. The steam will release the wrinkles, saving you the time and hassle of pulling out the iron and ironing board.

5. Invest in cleaning tools to help you reach up high or down low.

When you have low mobility, it can be especially challenging to clean objects or surfaces that are up high or down near the floor level, such as ceiling fans, crown molding, and baseboards. “I recommend getting a long duster and a Baseboard Buddy,” says Willatt. “These tools will allow you to clean your baseboards and molding without having to get on your hands and knees and your ceiling fan without having to get on a ladder.” Just like a stand-up weeder can help those with low mobility maintain their garden, these tools can help accomplish otherwise nearly impossible home cleaning tasks.

6. Clean more than dishes in the dishwasher.

The dishwasher can be a huge asset if you have limited mobility. But, did you know that it can help you clean more than just dishes? Get the most out of this appliance by using it to clean other items around the house, further simplifying your job. Always confirm by checking the manufacturer’s recommendations, but some of the items you can clean in a dishwasher include vases, plastic combs, many children’s toys (plastic or rubber toys that are not electric), shower heads, and oven racks.

7. Assess your furniture layout and any potential trip hazards.

Enhancing home safety for the elderly and other individuals with limited mobility can also make cleaning easier. Area rugs, stair runners, and exposed cords can make it more difficult (and dangerous) to navigate through a home. Removing these trip hazards can help you or family members with limited mobility move more freely throughout their home, making cleaning it a more realistic (and safer) possibility.

Changing the furniture layout may also help make it easier to move throughout the home. Consider getting someone to help you place furniture to create a more open floor plan, allowing you or others to move through the space using mobility aids, such as a wheelchair, walker, or crutches. 

8. Look for products that will make it easier to navigate your home.

Beyond removing trip hazards and being purposeful with where you place your furniture, you may also want to consider investing in a few new products that will help you navigate your home. For example, a rolling stool—like this one from Vapaa Taide—can allow you to sit closer to the ground without having to kneel or bend. This may help make it more comfortable—or simply possible—to complete certain tasks like cleaning up spills on the floor. You may also want to consider installing some grab bars or sturdier railings on your staircases. If you’re aging in place, making modifications such as these can help ensure that your home continues to meet your needs.

9. Use technology to your advantage.

Technology has come a long way over the past few years. Some of these advancements are evident in the types of cleaning tools and products that are on the market, many of which can greatly reduce the workload necessary to clean various areas of the home. One of the most obvious examples is the robot vacuum, which can be a huge help in keeping your floors clean. Some models—like the Roborock Q5 Pro+—will also mop the hard floors in your home. Choosing a self-emptying robot vacuum will further reduce your role, as these bases can hold several weeks of dust and dirt before they need to be emptied.

10. Ask for and accept help.

There is no shame in asking for help if there are specific tasks that you are not able to safely or logistically complete. Chances are, your friends and family are more than willing to do what they can to help make your life easier and more enjoyable, and maintaining a clean home can certainly fall into both of those categories. Willatt also suggests hiring “someone to do a deep clean for you once or twice per year,” while you keep up with more of the daily and weekly cleaning tasks.

The post 10 Easy Ways to Keep a Clean House When You Have Low Mobility appeared first on Bob Vila.

A roll of duct tape can be found in almost every toolbox in the world, thanks to its versatility, accessibility, and the fact that it quite literally sticks like glue. That’s because duct tape is formulated with natural rubber compounds to provide reliable, long-term adhesion. But that blessing is also a curse when the time comes to remove the tape and all traces of it. Cleanup is no easy task.

6 Ways to Remove Duct Tape Residue

The six fixes here are effective for removing duct tape residue from wood, glass, vinyl, and other materials without damaging the surface itself.

1. Scrape the tape residue off.

In cases where duct tape residue is minimal and not too stubborn, a simple scraping session with a putty knife (or a butter knife, in a pinch) can banish the gunk. Start from one end of the affected area, moving slowly to the other with small, repetitive scrapes, holding the blade nearly parallel to the surface so as not to gouge. Be especially patient and careful when working with wood and vinyl, which are easily damaged. A credit card can also work well if you don’t have a putty knife. 

2. Loosen the tape with warm water.

Warm water can often effectively remove duct tape residue from glass, vinyl, linoleum, and other surfaces that have a high-gloss finish. The heat softens the structure of the glue, while the viscosity helps push it away. Apply plain water with a sponge or microfiber cloth, scrubbing with quick, back-and-forth strokes.

If that fails, add a drop or two of hand soap or dishwashing liquid to further break down the bond. For particularly stubborn goo, and only on water-resistant surfaces, soak the item in warm soapy water, or cover it with a warm, wet, soapy sponge or rag, for 10 to 20 minutes. Then wipe dry, banishing the gunk as you go.

3. Use vinegar.

A vinegar-and-water mixture is an easy way to remove tape adhesive. Mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a spray bottle, then spray directly onto the sticky residue. Let this sit for 5 to 10 minutes to loosen the adhesive. Then, wipe it away with a clean cloth, or gently scrape with a plastic scraper. 

Keep in mind, though, that this method may not be ideal for surfaces like unfinished wood, natural stone, or delicate materials. This is because vinegar is acidic and can cause damage. You should always test the solution on a small area that’s out of the way to make sure it doesn’t harm the surface.

4. Dissolve it with rubbing alcohol. 

Rubbing alcohol can dissolve duct tape adhesive from a nonporous surface. This solvent is unsuitable for most painted materials, and should always be patch tested first, even on metal and glass. 

Dab a rag soaked in isopropyl alcohol (the kind you probably have in your medicine cabinet) and test a small, inconspicuous area of residue first. If the test patch proves successful, proceed by covering the gunk with alcohol, working in small sections, and letting the liquid evaporate to the point where you can easily wipe away whatever matter is left behind.

If you don’t have any rubbing alcohol at hand, you can always use hand sanitizer; it has a high alcohol content and can also break down tape adhesive. 

Duct Tape Residue Removal Tips

Whichever removal method you choose, follow these rules of thumb for getting tape residue off:

• Test a small area first: Before using any of our methods, test it on a small, inconspicuous spot to make sure you don’t damage the surface. 

• Apply enough pressure: Whether you’re wiping or scraping, use firm but controlled pressure to effectively remove the residue without harming the material underneath. 

Try a commercial adhesive remover: If home remedies aren’t cutting it, try a commercial adhesive remover (like Goo Gone, for example). Follow the product’s instructions carefully and make sure it’s safe for the surface you’re working on.

5. Lubricate it with WD-40 or cooking oil.

Oil and other water-displacing lubricants can help with tape residue removal. If you’re removing tape from glass, linoleum, vinyl, or finished wood, reach for WD-40. (If you haven’t got a can handy, substitute room-temperature vegetable oil straight from your kitchen cabinet.) 

Wear gloves to protect your skin and spray the surface entirely, then wait a few seconds before using your gloved finger to smooth away duct tape residue. Then wash away the remaining oil with soap and water. Never use oil or other lubricants on unfinished wood; it will sink into the pores for good—and that’s bad!

6. Heat it up.

Hot air can weaken the adhesion of duct tape residue, making it easier to remove from such surfaces as unfinished and flat-painted wood, on which you wouldn’t use oil or water. This method may require some extra effort but it’s probably your safest bet, as it doesn’t involve any liquids that could penetrate porous surfaces and cause discoloration or damage. 

Crank a hair dryer on its highest setting several inches from the offending material for a minute at a time between each attempt to scrape it off. Work in small sections, administering as many hot air blasts as necessary to remove everything. Be cautious when using heat on delicate or heat-sensitive surfaces, as it may cause warping, discoloration, or other damage.

How to Avoid Leaving Duct Tape Residue

Using the right kind of tape for the task at hand can help prevent sticky messes later. Not all tapes are the same: Some are designed for rough, outdoor surfaces, while others work better on smooth, indoor materials. Choosing a tape that’s specifically suited to your project will not only ensure better adhesion but also make removal easier. Make sure the surface is clean and dry before applying duct tape. Dust, grease, or moisture can weaken the bond and lead to a frustrating experience when the tape doesn’t stick properly.

It’s also worth noting that even the best duct tape isn’t ideal for all surfaces. Avoid using it on delicate materials like painted walls, wallpaper, or unfinished wood, as it can peel off finishes or leave stubborn residue. Similarly, duct tape may not stick well to porous surfaces like brick or concrete. Understanding these limitations will save you time, effort, and the hassle of cleaning up residue later on.

The post How to Remove Duct Tape Residue appeared first on Bob Vila.

When it comes to home improvement, repair, and maintenance, DIYers can learn a wide assortment of skills to help take on an array of jobs so they don’t need a professional. Oftentimes, even the simplest projects call for using essential tools every homeowner should have one hand. Hammers, screwdrivers, and tape measures, for instance, are relatively easy to use, but even these tools are only as effective as their user.

Whether you’re planning a large renovation or simply want to expand your DIY skills in the coming year, learning how to handle some of the most commonly used tools is a worthy endeavor for any homeowner. Bob Vila has you covered with setup instructions, parts diagrams, how-tos, product reviews, and more, for eight go-to tools for DIYers.

How to Use a Drill

One of the most frequently used tools around the home is a drill, and for good reason. Learning how to use a drill allows you to penetrate through drywall, wood, metal, and other hard materials, making it easier to run wire, mount heavy objects, or simply drive screws without hand-cranking a manual screwdriver. You can find both corded and cordless drills, as well as a wide variety of drill bits to handle a range of different scenarios. Just make sure to use proper eye protection to avoid flying bits of dust and debris. 

How to Use a Stud Finder

The purpose of a stud finder is right there in the name: To find wall studs. These essential tools help to locate studs behind wall claddings or to identify the location of ceiling joists without needing to cut a bunch of holes. (It’s ideal to hang pictures, put up shelving, install wall-mounted TVs, and more through a stud.) 

DIYers who learn how to use a stud finder can streamline a variety of simple jobs around the home, cutting down on wasted effort and unnecessary damage, especially when using more advanced stud finders that can even detect the differences in density along the walls.

How to Use a Circular Saw

A circular saw is a type of handheld power saw that is frequently used by DIYers for making straight or diagonal cuts through pieces of wood. When equipped with the right blade, a circular saw can also be used to cut metal, plastic, and other materials. 

Learning how to use a circular saw requires correct hand positioning. DIYers should make sure that they grip the saw with two hands, positioning one hand on the front grip and their dominant hand on the rear grip where the trigger is located. Also, ensure that the target material is properly supported and that you don’t force the saw through the material, as this can cause the saw blade to dangerously stick or kick back. 

How to Use a Caulk Gun

Caulk guns are designed to hold and apply caulking to fill in gaps and prevent leaks. Common uses of a caulking gun include applying beads of caulk around the tub, filling gaps around windows or door frames, and finishing molding or trim work. It’s relatively easy to learn how to use a caulk gun, but if you cut too much off the tip of the caulk tube or try to work too quickly, the caulk can come pouring out, leaving you with a difficult mess to clean up. 

It’s recommended to make a small cut in the tip of the caulk tube, then squeeze the caulk gun handle slowly until the caulk begins to come out so you can get a sense for how much pressure is required when applying the caulk. 

How to Use an Air Compressor

An air compressor on its own can still be useful, but these tools truly shine when paired with a wide range of pneumatic tools to make home DIY projects much easier. Air compressors essentially allow pneumatic tools to use air pressure for tasks like power nailing, paint spraying, or even automotive work. 

The steps for learning how to use an air compressor vary depending on the type of pneumatic tool you are using, but the initial set-up remains basically the same. However, it’s important to read and follow the specific directions provided by the manufacturer, as there can be some key difference between products, depending on the type of air compressor. 

How to Use a Belt Sander

When you are working with wood, a belt sander is an essential tool for removing thick layers of material and smoothing out the surface of the wood. A sanding belt moves rapidly through the tool, allowing the user to focus on controlling the position and pressure of the tool. 

Belt sanders are great for deck installation jobs, fence repair, paint stripping, and furniture building or refinishing, though it’s important to learn how to use a belt sander to avoid oversanding your project. Since a belt sander tends to be more powerful than a finish sander, DIYers need to work slowly until they get the hang of it.

How to Use a Glue Gun

Glue guns aren’t just for crafts and art projects, they can also be put to use for a number of household repairs and helpful hacks, including adhering small woodworking joints, fastening baseboards, or holding shoe molding or molding returns in place while you nail. Like caulk guns, it’s simple to learn how to use a glue gun, but if you rush, then you can create a sticky mess. 

Work slowly and carefully to ensure you apply the right amount of glue to the target material. It’s also recommended to have a scrap piece of cardboard to set the glue gun on when you aren’t using it and a rag to wipe away any excess glue. 

How to Use a Miter Saw

When you need to make accurate, repeatable cuts through several pieces of wood, metal, or other material, a miter saw is one of the best options available. Miter saws have a base that sits on a workbench or table, and an arm that holds the saw blade, which extends over the top of the base. You position the target material on the base, then bring the saw blade down to complete a cut through the material. 

Once you learn how to use a miter saw, you can make adjustments to the position and angle of the cut to create highly accurate and repeatable cuts that are effective for a wide range of projects, like fence building, deck repair, furniture making, and more.

The post Realize Your DIY Potential by Learning How to Use These Essential Tools in 2025 appeared first on Bob Vila.

Q: My bathtub sealant needs a refresh, and I’ve decided to re-caulk the tub myself. How long does caulk take to dry before it’s ready for use?

A: There’s nothing like fresh caulk—a waterproof filler and sealant, used in home construction and repairs—to give your bathroom a bright, clean look and feel. Over time, moisture can erode even the best sealant, allowing mold and mildew to form. Despite bleach and scrubbing, dinginess can persist, so replacing the caulk is a smart move. But if the caulk isn’t allowed to fully cure, it can more easily wash away, ruining your hard work and leaving joined surfaces susceptible to water damage. Keep reading to learn how long caulk takes to dry and cure, so your project is a success.

Factors That Affect Drying Times

Understand that there’s a vital distinction between “dry time” and “cure time” when it comes to caulking. Most products will become dry to the touch after several minutes, but won’t fully cure until days after application. Be sure to also factor in the following when determining how long it takes caulk to dry:

“Fast-drying” formulas still take time.

Some silicone caulks are advertised as “fast-drying,” claiming a 1-hour dry time, but read the fine print before planning your project based on this information: It may be that the ideal drying conditions for this rate are a narrow range of temperatures and humidity levels. Budget at least 3 to 12 hours for these products to dry and a full 24 hours to cure. For latex-based products, 24 hours is also recommended before water exposure. Polyurethane caulks can take up to 10 days to cure fully.

Some caulks are formulated to cure under a coat of paint.

If you intend to paint over caulk—for example, if you have tile molding in your bathroom, separating a tiled backsplash from a painted wall—you’ll find caulk that’s formulated to continue curing beneath a coat of paint. With these products, you can typically apply paint after 30 minutes, whereas with polyurethane caulk, you must wait 7 to 10 days until the surface is cured before painting. Whatever formula you choose, be sure to read instructions thoroughly, as each manufacturer has different formulas, with optimal methods for application and drying.

Each type of caulk responds differently to moisture.

An acrylic latex-based caulk dries as the water evaporates from the material, so placing a fan in the room will speed up the process. In contrast, silicone caulks actually need moisture to dry and cure—a humidifier in the room is an asset. Polyurethane caulk should not be exposed to any direct water or added moisture for at least 3 days to a week.

Temperature will impact the caulk’s drying time.

The ideal temperature for applying and curing caulk ranges between 40 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, so adjust your thermostat accordingly. If caulking in winter, when the air is often drier, it may take silicone longer to cure—but don’t try to speed the process by adding heat (e.g., with a hairdryer), as heat softens and can potentially melt silicone. Latex will freeze in extreme cold, and frigid air lacks enough moisture for proper polyurethane curing, so avoid using it in freezing temperatures.

You’ll always get the best results using fresh caulk.

Older silicone and latex caulks can deteriorate in quality, even inside a sealed tube, and never fully cure. Most companies will put an expiration date on the caulk tube, but if you have a tube of undated caulk lying around, you can play it safe and buy a new one or test a strip on a solid surface first. You should notice a firm “skin” begin to form within 30 minutes if the caulk is fresh. Polyurethane caulk should be used within 12 months of the manufacture date.

Types of Caulk and Their Curing Times

In general, silicone and acrylic latex caulk can be dry to touch within 30 minutes of air exposure, depending on how humid or well-ventilated your space is. But it can take 1 to 10 days, depending on the formula, for the caulk to fully set and become completely waterproof and ready for use.

Start with the right caulk for the job, which will have unique dry and cure times. There are three types of caulk for common household surfaces that receive a lot of moisture—like tubs, showers, and sinks:

Silicone Caulk

Silicone caulk works best with glass, metal, and ceramic because it adheres easily to smooth, nonporous surfaces, creating a flexible yet long-lasting bond. Silicone caulks are widely considered the best caulks for bathrooms and kitchens; some even contain antimicrobial additives.

Acrylic Latex Caulk

Acrylic latex caulk is best for filling small gaps and joints in wood, especially areas that will be painted and not exposed to much water. This is because acrylic latex caulks can shrink or crack over time, leaving surfaces open to water damage. Some acrylic latex caulks now have silicone additives to improve flexibility, durability, and water resistance, making them appropriate for caulking around showers, tubs, and sinks.

Polyurethane-Based Caulk

Polyurethane-based caulk is growing in popularity; these caulks are good for exterior use, particularly around windows. Polyurethane is paintable, provides greater elasticity, repels dirt, and creates a watertight seal. It does take longer to cure than silicone or latex caulks, however.

Final Thoughts

Caulk is one of the most versatile materials used in home improvement projects and repairs. As such, caulk applications, formulas, and cure times vary greatly. But considering several factors such as temperature, humidity and, most important, the product label, you can effectively estimate how long it takes caulk to dry.

FAQs

The post How Long Does Caulk Take to Dry? appeared first on Bob Vila.

Stick welding, formally known as shielded metal arc welding, is the process of joining two pieces of metal by melting them using an electrical arc at the joint. Unlike other welding methods, stick welding can be performed horizontally, vertically, overhead and in windy weather, making it one of the more versatile welding methods. And since stick welding equipment is relatively compact and lightweight, it’s ideal for the jobsite or for a DIYer’s workshop where space is at a premium. 

Stick welding also uses a simple setup that makes it a relatively easy method for beginner welders, and supplies and equipment are also more affordable with stick welding than with other welding methods. That said, safety is paramount with any type of welding, and stick welding is no exception. We tapped David Crosby, a general contractor and mechanic with more than 30 years of welding experience, for advice on how to stick weld. We’ll also review the equipment it requires, and offer stick welding tips. 

Important Stick Welding Components

One of the reasons stick welding is so popular with DIYers is that the equipment it requires is relatively affordable and doesn’t take up much space. Here’s what you’ll need to get started: 

• Electrode rod: The electrode rod, which is a wire that’s coated with a metal that is usually the same material that you’re welding together, has two purposes. It conducts the electrical current that creates the welding arc responsible for liquifying the metals and fusing them together. It also supplies the metal needed to create the weld.
  
• Welding machine: A welding machine for stick welding maintains a constant voltage regardless of the load that the welding machine is drawing, thereby allowing the user to maintain a consistent arc length while working. Most DIY stick welding machines are inverters, which are relatively compact, easy to pick up, and not tough to carry.
  
• Electrode rod holder: This device, which resembles a clamp with a handle, holds stick welding rods. Electrode rods are coated with flux, which releases a gas that protects the environment around the weld, preventing it from becoming contaminated by the surrounding air while it hardens.
  
• Ground clamp: This electrical cable consists of a clamp that attaches to the work piece and an end that connects to the welding machine, completing the circuit necessary to create a welding arc.
  
• Chipping hammer and wire brush: These tools are essential for removing the slag leftover from a weld.   

Three Electrode Rod Types to Know

Unlike TIG and MIG welding, stick welding uses electrode rods to create the heat required for welding. These rods come in a variety of types and sizes to suit different applications and materials. Electrode rods are labeled with four-digit numbers. The first two numbers refer to the tensile strength, which is the amount of weight it can withstand after welding. 

The third number refers to the position in which you can use the rod: horizontal, flat, vertical, or overhead. 

• Rating of 1 is the most common. It means the rod is rated for any position. 
• Rating of 2 is for flat and horizontal use.
• Rating of 3 is for flat use only.  

The fourth number refers to the composition of the flux coating around the rod. A lower number sets more quickly, creating more identifiable weld marks, while a higher number is softer material that creates a flatter and smoother weld. 

Below are three of the most commonly used electrode rod types: 

1. E6010

An E6010 welding rod is notable for creating a deep cutting arc. This makes it ideal for thicker metals or for penetrating metal that’s coated in rust or dirt. An E6010 rod is also one of the harder electrode rods to work with, requiring more experience from the operator to prevent them from digging too deep into the metal. 

2. E6013

A good general purpose electrode, E6013 works in a variety of welding applications. They leave a clean, professional looking weld and are easy to work with. “The E6013 is normally the go-to electrode for beginners and all-around use,” says Crosby. “It works on any polarity in any position, the slag is easy to remove, the penetration is mild, so it’s easier to not blow through thin sections, and it’s easier to learn how to control heat and travel speed.”

3. E7018 

E7018 electrodes are typically the choice of professional welders. They produce a clean arc that limits spattering, allowing the operator to create a strong, smooth bead that requires little post welding clean-up. 

Important Stick Welding Safety Tips

Given that stick welding can reach temperatures approaching 7,000 degrees Fahrenheit while creating dangerous UV radiation, taking safety precautions and employing good practices when stick welding is crucial. “You’re dealing with very high temperatures, and in most cases, powerful electric currents,” says Crosby. With this in mind, he recommends the following safety precautions: 

• PPE. Wearing the proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is crucial. This includes a welding helmet (we suggest an auto darkening hood, like this highly rated option available at Amazon, that’s easier to work with for beginners), a fire-resistant welding apron or jacket, leather boots, a respirator, and welding gloves.
• Fire extinguisher. Don’t weld near any flammable or combustible materials and keep a fire extinguisher nearby. 
• Dry surfaces. With stick welding, you’re working with electricity, so be sure to work on dry surfaces and be mindful of the welding leads. “Do not, do not, have your body in between the welding leads,” Crosby says. Doing so puts your body in the pathway for electricity, which can result in electrocution.    

Initial Setup and Calibration

Start by choosing an electrode that suits the types of job and material (see above). Plug in the welding machine and set the amperage based on the electrode type and thickness. Calibration settings are typically on the electrode label. You can also find a stick welding amperage chart online. 

Next, set up the polarity of the welding machine to match the electrode rod. The rod’s polarity will be listed on its box. 

For an AC/DC+ electrode, connect the welding machine’s ground clamp to the negative port on the welding machine and attach the clamp end to the workpiece, then attach the electrode holder to the positive side. FOR AC/DC-, connect the ground clamp to the positive side and the clamp to the negative mount. 

How to Stick Weld 

Stick welding methods all follow the same general guidelines, with some variances depending on the type of joint you’re welding. 

STEP 1: Prep the surface.

One benefit of stick welding is that it eliminates the need to clean rust and dirt off metal before beginning the weld because of the flux coating on the electrodes that it uses. That being said, having a clean starting area is key to establishing an arc, especially for beginners. Crosby recommends using an angle grinder with a flap wheel. You can also use a wire brush to remove any grime or rust from your starting area. The key here is to have both the clamp and rod contacting bare metal. 

STEP 2: Strike an arc.

Attach the electrode holder to the end of the rod. Make sure the clamp only contacts bare metal and not the flux to ensure a clean connection. 

Check the end of the rod and make sure the tip is not coated over with flux. Touch the end of the electrode to the workpiece in a quick motion that’s similar to striking a match, then pull it slightly away from the surface. This will create a spark that ionizes the air, allowing you to establish a welding arc. “It should sound just like eggs frying in bacon grease when you have it right,” Crosby says.

If you don’t pull the tip off the metal fast enough, the electrode may stick to the metal, in which case you’ll need to make a quick twisting motion to release it. If you pull the tip too far from the surface of the workpiece, you’ll lose the arc and need to start over again. 

Striking an arc is perhaps the most challenging part of stick welding for beginners. Crosby says the best way to become proficient is through practice. “It doesn’t matter if you didn’t finish high school or just completed your post-doc work, it might take some time and practice to acquire that skill,” he says. “Get some scrap steel, clean it, and burn some rod.”

STEP 3: Start the weld.

Hold the rod so that it’s at a 10- to 15-degree angle from the workpiece and drag the rod along the weld line, moving in a straight line. Don’t push the rod along the weld, as doing so could strap slag in the weld pool, contaminating the weld. 

STEP 4: Maintain even distance and speed.

To get a good weld, you’ll also want to maintain a consistent arc, which requires you to maintain  a distance from the material that’s no greater than the diameter of the rod. This can be a challenge given that the rod will shorten as it melts. Use your off-hand to help prop up and steady the dominant hand that’s holding the rod in order to maintain proper control and distance.  

Speed is also key. Go too slow and you’ll leave a wide weld or even overheat the material and melt completely through it. Move too fast and you won’t penetrate deeply enough into the material to create a strong connection. Your goal is to produce a weld that’s about twice the width of the diameter of the rod. 

Practice making welding lines over a piece of scrap material to get a feel for what travel speed produces the proper weld width before moving forward with your weld. 

STEP 5: Clean the weld. 

Once the weld is complete, there’s likely to be some slag left behind. Clean up the weld by removing the excess bits of slag with the chipping hammer and wire brush. 

Stick Weld Joint Types

While experts recommend holding the welding rod at a 10- to 15-degree angle that points forward, the angle at which you hold the rod in relation to the workpiece will vary depending on the type of weld. 

Butt Joint

A butt joint is when two pieces of material are butted up against each other. When making a butt weld, the electrode should be positioned so that it’s at a 90-degree angle in relation to the workpieces.  

T-Joint

A T-joint weld is when you’re joining two materials to form a T-shaped joint. When executing a T-weld, point the electrode so that it’s at a 45-degree angle in relation to both pieces. 

Lap Weld

A lap weld is when you join two pieces of metal that are overlapping each other. As with a T-joint weld, you’ll want to hold the electrode so that it’s at a 45-degree angle to the work pieces when executing the weld. 

Final Thoughts

Stick welding is a simple and affordable method for welding, which is why it’s such a popular option for beginners. However, there’s an art to learning how to weld well. Your first efforts at stick welding are likely to result in choppy weld lines that vary from thick to thin. Don’t get frustrated. As with most things, practice makes perfect. “Read everything you can find on the subject, practice, practice, practice, and be safe,” Crosby says.

The post How to Stick Weld Like a Pro appeared first on Bob Vila.