“Satin and semi-gloss each have their place in the home,” says Erika Woelfel, vice president of color and creative services at Behr. However, telling satin vs. semi-gloss apart can get somewhat tricky. Is semi-gloss shinier than satin? To answer, pay attention to the main ingredients: pigment, the powdery ingredient that gives paint its color; and resinous binder. The more resin a paint has, the shinier it is. That’s because it allows the paint to flow more and soaks up the powdery pigment well, making for a smooth consistency. 

Semi-gloss, one step under high-gloss in terms of sheen,  is shinier than satin because it has a higher percentage of resinous binder than pigment. Satin is shinier than eggshell and matte finishes for the same reason. Both semi-gloss and satin are available in traditional paint types including oil-based, latex, and low- or no-VOC (volatile organic compound) versions. However, the subtle differences in satin vs semi-gloss paint can make one a distinctly better fit for your project than another.

Satin Paint

Satin finish paint has a slight sheen, so it reflects light better than both eggshell and matte finish interior paints. But satin absorbs more light than semi-gloss paint, and thus is forgiving of pre-existing imperfections. So, with this in mind, what is satin paint used for? “A satin finish, like Behr Premium Plus Interior Satin Enamel, offers a soft, durable look that resists dirt—ideal for living rooms, hallways, and bedrooms,” says Woelfel. 

If you’ve got dings and dents in your walls, cabinets, or soon-to-be-painted dresser, the flatter nature of satin will look better over pocks, divots, and scrapes since it draws the light in and tricks the eye into seeing a more even surface. If you want to deflect attention away from faults and blemishes without spending hours sanding them away, satin is the way to go.

That said, satin paint such as Benjamin Moore Regal Select Interior Paint in the satin/pearl finish is durable and somewhat light-reflective, so it works in areas where semi-gloss is too shiny. “It is perfect for adding a subtle contrast against walls painted in a matte or eggshell finish,” says David Underwood, associate technical project manager at Benjamin Moore. 

Satin Paint Pros and Cons

When to Use Satin Paint

Use satin finish paint when you want to:

• Highlight a ceiling or other well-lit surface without creating too much glare
• Brighten up a hallway
• Cover living-area walls that have imperfections or require regular paint touch-ups
• Paint high-traffic areas

Semi-Gloss Paint

Semi-gloss paint’s higher percentage of resin compared to pigment results in a shinier, and therefore, more light-reflective finish than satin. When looking at the difference between gloss and semi-gloss paint on walls or trim, it’s the mirror-like finish of gloss that is a step up from the semi-gloss sheen. 

“A semi-gloss finish is more luminous and perfectly suited to highlight architectural details of your home and create dimension on millwork, trim, wainscoting, and doors,” says Underwood. If used on living-area walls, semi-gloss paints like Benjamin Moore Advance Interior Paint create too much of a glare and can make paint colors appear darker. Factor that in when you’re making a final decision about which paint finish to use. 

However, there are cases when semi-gloss is the best choice. “Semi-gloss, such as Behr Ultra Scuff Defense Interior Semi-Gloss Enamel, provides a higher sheen with added moisture-resistance, making it perfect for trim, doors, cabinets, and high-traffic spaces like kitchens and bathrooms,” says Woelfel.

Semi-Gloss Paint Pros and Cons

When to Use Semi-Gloss Paint

Use semi-gloss when you want to:

• Increase the light reflection in a room
• Ensure ease of cleanup in bathrooms or kids’ rooms
• Repaint your garage doors for shine and easy cleanup
• Highlight millwork such as banisters, chair rails, or architectural features in old houses
• Create a durable surface on high-touch areas like baseboards, interior doors, or kitchen cabinets
• Reduce mildew and mold in high-moisture areas like basements or laundry rooms

Differences Between Satin and Semi-Gloss Paint

Sheen

Semi-gloss has more sheen than satin because of the higher resin-to-pigment ratio. But how will you tell the difference when you’re looking at a wall? You’ve likely seen shiny baseboard paint  up against a more matte wall. That’s likely a semi-gloss finish because it’s the best paint for doors and trim when paired with satin. But if you’re looking at an existing paint job and wondering whether it’s satin or semi-gloss, try feeling it. Semi-gloss has a sort of plastic-like, sticky texture compared to the more matte satin finish, which feels much like the surface of an eggshell.

Maintenance 

“For a balance of durability and aesthetics, satin works well in most spaces, while semi-gloss delivers extra protection where frequent cleaning is needed,” says Underwood. The higher the gloss, the easier the cleanup of messes like fingerprints and smudges. For objects and areas that get a lot of use and therefore require frequent wipe-downs—bathrooms, kitchens, playrooms, and kids’ bedrooms, semi-gloss is often the wiser option. 

Because a semi-gloss painted surface is slicker, it’s more resistant to moisture and easier to go over with a damp cloth or special sprays designed for minor household disasters. While both are durable compared to eggshell or matte options, semi-gloss has a slight advantage thanks to the additional binders that give it both a higher sheen and more resistance to fading or grease stains.

Price

In general, the higher the gloss, the higher the price, but usually the difference is minor. “Both satin and semi-gloss finishes have a reflective quality and equivalent price point,” says Underwood. “The higher percentage of resinous binders in the semi-gloss can make it slightly more expensive than satin paints.” So, if you’re looking to save a little bit of money buying paint for the whole home interior, satin is the most budget-worthy option of the two that still offers a hint of sheen.

FAQs

The post Satin vs. Semi-Gloss Paint: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Bob Vila.

• Option 1: Cover your toilet with a trash bag and line the floor with drop cloths so that you can work without fear of mess. This option is ideal when you are repainting your entire bathroom or the full wall where your toilet sits.
• Option 2: Enlist a specialty tool called the Paint Behind to slide into the narrow space behind a toilet and pad on paint. Use it together with Option 1 to ensure a complete and flawless paint job or alone as a “quick fix” to correct discoloration on the patch of wall directly behind the toilet.

Before you begin, make sure to select the right primer and paint. Bathrooms, of course, are exposed to a lot of moisture and humidity, so your paint choice should be designed to withstand the combination. Consider a paint with anti-microbial additives, like Benjamin Moore’s Aura Bath and Spa collection, or an interior paint with semi- or high-gloss finish—this sheen repels moistures better than matte paints. And don’t forget to start with a top-quality, moisture-resistant paint primer. The right primer will prevent peeling and water damage for years.

OPTION 1: Cover the toilet with a trash bag, then brush freely.

When painting the entire bathroom, prep the toilet with a drop cloth before you start but save the actual painting of the tight space behind your toilet for last—it requires the most detailed attention.

Step 1: Ventilate the bathroom.

Bathrooms are often small, enclosed spaces with poor air circulation. Materials like shower curtains and towels that retain moisture also keep them consistently humid. To boost bathroom ventilation and minimize paint drying time, remove the shower curtain, floor rug, bath, and hand towels. If your bathroom has windows, make sure they are open. Run the ventilation fan or plug in a small circulating fan.

To prevent paint fumes inhalation, you may also wish you wear a painter’s mask.

Step 2: Clean and prepare the area behind the toilet.

Clean the walls, floor, wall, and toilet surfaces with a cellulose sponge dipped in a mixture of dish soap and water. This will help remove dust and dust and hair build-up. Dry the area thoroughly with terry cloths.

Next, cover the floor around the toilet with a tarp or plastic sheet secured with painter’s tape.

Then, cover the toilet with an extra-large plastic garbage bag. (Tip: You’ll find contractor clean-up bags at your local home improvement store in sizes of up to 50 gallons, and these resist accidental tearing.) Tape the bag in place around the toilet’s base. Take care to wrap any piping or trim that might be exposed with painter’s tape.

Tried-and-True Advice

“There’s no way to paint behind a toilet with it being a bit awkward. Removing the toilet is an option, but that adds a series of steps to the process that are difficult and best avoided unless you have plumbing skills. I find that removing the lid and covering the toilet with a trash bag is efficient, and it allows for full paint coverage when using narrow, spongy brushes. Look for long handle options to make the process easier.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 3: Prime and paint the wall.

Start with one to two coats of primer to ensure the best paint adhesion. To reach behind the toilet and around pipes, you’ll want to do the following:

• Use a narrow paint roller to apply paint primer around the shape of the toilet, cutting in as best you can. Roll with the metal frame on the outside in order to get as close to the covered toilet tank as possible.
• Switch to a 3-inch-wide foam brush to paint behind the toilet. Carefully load one side of the foam brush with paint primer and, when you reach behind the toilet, keep the paint-covered side in direct contact with the wall. Apply in small strokes.
• Use a 1-inch-wide angled brush for detail work around the pipes.

Let the primer dry thoroughly before applying paint. (The paint’s drying time will depend on the temperature and humidity level in your bathroom, as well as the paint primer you choose; refer to the can for an estimated dry time between coats and before paint.)

After priming, clean your paint pan before pouring fresh paint into it. To apply your paint, follow the same tips. After the first coat, wait the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer (longer, if your bathroom is not well ventilated) so that the wall is completely dry before applying a top coat.

OPTION 2: Purchase a special painting tool to access the area behind a toilet tank.

Painting the wall behind the toilet tank can be less of a pain when you use a tool designed to fit the narrow gap between the toilet tank and wall. Sure, it may be that you only have a paint job like this once every five to 10 years (maybe more, if you are a renter who appreciates a fresh coat of paint when you move in and then often needs to repaint before you move out). There’s an innovative painting tool you can buy online to access hard-to-reach areas called the Paint Behind. It’s a flat, extendable-to-12-inches paint brush that can reach behind toilets, pipes, radiators, and other tight spots.

Step 1: Ventilate the bathroom, then prep for painting.

Proceed in establishing good bathroom ventilation and a clean slate for best adhesion, just as you would in Steps 1 and 2 of Option 1.

Clean the wall behind the toilet with a cellulose sponge dipped in a mixture of dish soap and water (you might also try dipping a microfiber cloth in the cleaning solution and wrapping it around the Paint Behind, and extending the tool to clean behind the tank). While the wall air dries, clean the stick and let it dry completely before painting.

Cover the bathroom floor with a drop cloth held in place with painter’s tape, but skip bagging the toilet. Keep a damp paper towel nearby to wipe up any marks.

Step 2: Dip the tool into primer, and glide it across the wall. Repeat the process with coats of paint.

Dip the Paint Behind’s applicator pad into the paint tray to get primer on pad. Then, glide the paint wand the wall behind the toilet, pressing firmly to make sure the entire paint-saturated surface meets the wall.

Apply two coats of primer this way, leaving time between them as recommended by the paint manufacturer. Then, clean the Paint Behind with water and let it dry. Repeat the process with two coats of paint using the Paint Behind.

The post How to Paint Behind a Toilet appeared first on Bob Vila.

While there are a range of shapes and sizes for household metal objects—from railings to side tables—there are several methods that can work to remove paint from them. Here are a few of the most effective ways of stripping paint from metal so it’s ready to be refreshed. 

Project Overview

Working Time: 2+ hours
Total Time: 2+ hours
Skill Level: Beginner
Estimated Cost: $10 to $50

Before You Begin

Painted metal can range from cabinet hardware to a metal door, so preparing for the project will depend on the painted metal object. No matter the size, select an area that is well-ventilated. It’s just as important to protect yourself, so don your rubber gloves, safety glasses, long-sleeved shirt, shoes, and pants to cover your skin completely. Then, avoid inhalation of fumes from the chemicals by opening all windows and wearing a respirator.

Before you remove metal paint, prepare the work area by covering the work surface and surrounding ground with drop cloths. If you want to save money on supplies, recycled newspapers or unfolded cardboard boxes can substitute as surface protection against the chemical stripper you’ll be using—just make sure not to leave any gaps between pieces. Paint dust and flecks can be tough to chase around later. 

7 Ways to Remove Paint From Metal

When considering which method to use to remove paint from your metal object, take note of the shape and size of the item. Some methods below are better suited for flat surfaces and others are best suited for small objects. No matter which you choose, make sure to protect your skin, eyes, and surrounding area from paint flecks and dust that could contain lead. 

1. Paint Scraper

Scraping paint from metal with a paint scraper can be a useful method for removing flaking paint from flat metal surfaces. Be mindful that softer metals may scratch more easily, so it’s important to use a plastic scraper and a lighter touch when using this method. It’s likely that you won’t be able to remove all of the paint with just a scraper, so another method may need to be used to help finish the job. 

SUPPLIES

Drop cloth
Paint scraper
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Cloth

1. Lay out the drop cloth and don protective gloves, eye protection, and mask. 
2. Take the paint scraper at an acute angle to the surface and push the scraping edge along the surface.
3. Repeat the scraping motion until all paint is removed. 
4. Wipe the surface clean with a cloth. 

2. Boiling Water

While boiling water can be a helpful way to loosen paint from metal surfaces, it’s another paint remover for metal method that isn’t practical for larger surfaces. Make sure to always wear heat-resistant gloves when removing metal from boiling water. 

SUPPLIES

Pot
Heat-resistant gloves
Paint scraper
Cloth

1. Put on heat-resistant gloves and boil water in the pot. 
2. Either pour boiling water over the object or submerge it in the boiling water.
3. After the paint begins to bubble on the metal surface, use a scraper to remove the paint. 
4. Wipe the surface of the object with a clean cloth.

Tried-and-True Advice

“In my experience, paint removal is sometimes the easiest part of the job. What nobody talks about is what to do with or how to manage the paint that comes off.

Take pressure washing, for example. Using an oscillating “turbo” type head, the water will blast into all kinds of nooks and crannies on a wrought iron railing or old table base and it’ll burst any loose paint off in seconds. And what happens next? The paint is dispersed all over everywhere for 10-15 feet around. It’ll pepper the driveway, the garage wall, the side of the house, whatever. It can be cleaned off, but now you have a second job.

Same with an angle grinder and flapper wheel. At 10,000-11,000-rpm for a 4 1/2-inch tool. That paint is a-flyin’. You’ll need a face shield at a minimum along with gloves, long sleeves and hearing protection (these are my favorite). The machine will murdilize the paint, turning it into a million pepper-sized pieces that’ll be hurled everywhere, including partially on you.

Chemical strippers are a challenge of a different sort. Paint is a solid before paint strippers are applied (this stuff is caustic—you’ll need glove and eye protection). Yes, strippers remove the paint, but before doing so, liquefy it, turning into a slurry-like sludge that gets everywhere. And, if you’re using it to remove many coats of paint, you may need multiple applications as it eats through however many layers it can eat through, then stops, leaving you with more paint to remove.

So, before stripping any finishes, figure out the reaction to the action first and decide which path is best for you, because you might just decide to find an old school dip-and-strip and let them handle it.”

—Mark Clement, Contributing Writer

3. Baking Soda or Vinegar

One way to ease paint from a metal surface is to use baking soda with boiling water. If you don’t have baking soda, white vinegar can be used in its place. While it’s an effective method for removing paint, it’s a process that’s best for smaller pieces. 

SUPPLIES

1. Add ¼ cup of baking soda to 1 quart of water in a disposable pot.
2. Turn on the burner and bring the mixture to a boil.
3. Place the painted metal object in the boiling water.
4. After about 10 to 15 minutes, the paint will likely start to lift from the surface.
5. Turn off the heat.
6. Put on heat-resistant gloves and remove the object from the pot.
7. With a stiff brush or scraper remove any remaining paint. 
8. Wipe the surface of the object with a clean cloth.

4. Heat Gun

Essentially, a heat gun will liquefy the paint on the surface enough so that it will be easier to scrape away with a paint scraper. Always start with the lowest setting and wear heat-resistant gloves. 

SUPPLIES

Heat-resistant gloves
Eye protection
Heat gun
Wire brush
Cloth

1. While wearing heat-resistant gloves and eye protection, turn on the heat gun to its lowest setting. 
2. Move the heat gun slowly across the surface. 
3. When the paint begins to crack and melt off the metal, use a wire brush or a paint scraper to remove the paint. 
4. Wait for the surface to cool and then wipe the metal surface with a clean cloth.

5. Drill

Sturdy and complicated surfaces like metal railings may require the flexibility offered by a drill with a wire wheel attachment to successfully remove paint. Wire wheels can be flat or brush-shaped, which offers the ability to attack both flat and spindly surfaces.

SUPPLIES

Drill
Wire wheel
Eye protection
Heat gun
Wire brush
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Cloth

1. Put on eye protection, mask, and gloves. 
2. Attach the wire wheel to the drill.
3. Turn on the drill at a low speed.
4. Apply the wire wheel to the surface of the painted metal, and work the wheel over the surface to remove the paint.
5. Wipe the debris off the surface with a cloth. 

6. Angle Grinder

An angle grinder in combination with a flap disc (flapper wheel) can be a good choice if you know the paint is not lead-based and there is a lot of paint to remove from the metal surface. Grinders spin up to 10,000 rpm, so be careful while using one and wear a face shield and gloves to protect your eyes and skin from flecks. 

SUPPLIES

Angler grinder
Flap disc (flapper wheel)
Eye protection
Heat gun
Wire brush
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Cloth

1. Put on eye protection, mask, and gloves. 
2. Attach the flap disc to the angle grinder. 
3. Turn on the angle grinder and hold with two hands.
4. Starting with a fine grit, apply the flap disc to the painted surface. Do not force the tool by pressing too hard. 
5. Increase the grit of the disc until the paint is gone. 

7. Paint Stripper

A seemingly easy way to remove paint is with a paint stripper. Older versions are notoriously odorous and not environmentally friendly. However, there are newer versions that are low-odor and made from more organic materials. 

SUPPLIES

Drop cloth
Paint-stripping gel
Disposable paint brushes
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Respirator mask
Nylon brush
Mineral spirits

1. Pour a small amount of the stripper into a glass jar or metal can. Using a disposable paint brush, apply the chemical paint stripper to the metal, and let it set according to the instructions on your commercial stripper. As it sets, you should start to see the paint bubble up from the surface of the metal.
2. Wearing protective gear, take a paint scraper, and chip off the bubbled paint from all the flat surfaces of the metal. For crevices and harder-to-reach areas, switch to a scrubbing pad or nylon brush (you can use the one from Step 2, but first give it a good wash and trim the bristles short!) and continue to chip away. Reapply stripper and scrape or brush away again as needed until the whole piece is paint-free.
3. Next, dampen a rag with mineral spirits and wipe the surface down. This will remove any leftover flakes of lifted paint and the bulk of the remaining chemical residue. 
4. Thoroughly rinse off the metal with water to completely remove all traces of the stripper, then wipe it down using a fresh, dry rag. 

Tips for Removing Paint From Metal

Removing paint from metal surfaces can sometimes be an easy project; in other instances, it can be time-consuming and difficult. Make sure to take time to adequately set up the project area and gather everything you need, including personal protective equipment, before starting. Here are some more tips:

• Set up the project in a well-ventilated area.
• Protect the area with a drop cloth to collect the paint chips and dust.
• Always wear a face mask and gloves when removing paint from metal. 
• Use a plastic paint scraper on softer metal surfaces to prevent scratching. 
• You may need to use a combination of methods to remove all paint from a metal surface.
• Always try the easiest method before moving on to power tools and chemical stripping. 

Final Thoughts

Learning how to remove paint from metal surfaces will help save money and resources as you can refresh and reuse those household items. Depending on the size and shape of the metal object, one method may be better suited than another. Also, you may need to try a few methods before all of the paint is gone. If removing paint from a metal item is only the first step in a bigger upcycling project, you may want to learn more about the best paints for metal.

About the Author

Theresa Clement is a handy designer who has been improving homes for more than 20 years. A certified color expert, she is known for solving design dilemmas with paint, and has painted everything from metal and wood furniture to plastic hopper balls and gum balls to complete a look for a client. Starting with her work at architecture firms, she has authored DIY books; writes for Architect magazine, JLC magazine, and Remodeling magazine; and worked as a design producer on makeover shows. She now works with her carpenter husband on private homes and their home improvement brand, MyFixitUpLife. 

FAQs

The post How to Remove Paint From Metal appeared first on Bob Vila.

1. For front steps, car windshields and doors, and other small areas, try rubbing alcohol.

Alcohol has a much lower freezing point than water. This homemade de-icer recipe harnesses its ice-melting potential: Combine 4 gallons of hot water, 16 ounces of rubbing alcohol, and 1 teaspoon of dish soap. (The dish soap reduces the surface tension of the water, helping the solution spread more evenly.) Pour the solution over icy areas, and then use a shovel to clear off loose ice and water.

For icy car doors or windshields, pour some of the cooled solution into a spray bottle and spritz the frozen areas. Keep a bottle of this solution in the car so you’re ready if the windshield gets frosted over when you’re far from home.

2. For walkways and driveways, try salt.

Rock salt, or sodium chloride, is the most common (and cheapest) ice melt around. It works by lowering the freezing point of water, eventually breaking down the ice. If you don’t have any rock salt handy for de-icing, table salt can do in a pinch. For best results, remove as much snow as possible from the surface before applying the salt. Because of its small granule size, table salt will start working faster than rock salt, but it won’t provide the same traction. As well, table salt tends to turn ice into tough-to-move slush, while rock salt is more likely to break it down into manageable chunks. For small areas, such as the front steps, try mixing warm water with table salt and applying this solution; this method also works for unsticking car tires. Though cheap and usually plentiful, salt has a few drawbacks: It is not effective at the low temperatures that some of the best commercial ice melts can handle. As well, it can harm plants, corrode metal and concrete, and impact fish and wildlife if it gets into waterways, so avoid regular use.

3. If you have nothing else available, try fertilizer.

Ammonium sulfate, a common ingredient in commercial fertilizers, works by lowering the temperature at which ice melts. While it doesn’t melt ice immediately, it speeds the process along. If you have no other potential ice melt around, check your leftover fertilizer to see if ammonium sulfate is listed as a component. To use, scatter it over the ice. Although fertilizer can help melt ice, it’s not recommended. Overuse can harm plants, fertilizer chemicals can damage concrete surfaces, and fertilizer runoff from melting ice is an environmental concern.

The post Homemade Ice Melt Recipes: 3 Solutions for When You’re Iced In appeared first on Bob Vila.

A: There is no one way to level a concrete floor. Of all the methods available to do-it-yourselfers, which should you employ? That depends on how level you want to make the concrete. And that question, in turn, hinges on a related but different question: What type of flooring do you plan to install in your basement once the floor is level?

Leveling a concrete floor for carpeting

If you envision carpeting or another type of floor that forgives minor variations in subfloor grade, such as engineered wood or click-and-lock vinyl, then you can probably opt for the least labor-intensive method for leveling a floor.

Here, a concrete grinder would do the bulk of the work. (You can rent a concrete grinder from your local home improvement center.) You’d use it to grind down the most prominent ridges in the floor.

To finish the job, you would then mix a batch of concrete and use it to fill in any dips or depressions.

Tried-and-True Advice

“While floor leveler is an easy way to level floors, especially if you’re planning to lay ceramic tile, it can be a challenge to keep it out of places you don’t want it to go, especially if you’re working in a bathroom where there are plumbing fixtures coming through the floor.

To keep leveler from flowing into toilet holes and floor vents, create a cardboard barrier around these holes by cutting pieces out of an old cardboard box. Shape the cardboard around the toilet flange and any floor vents and caulk or tape them into position. When you pour the floor leveler, it will flow around them instead of going down the holes.”

—Tony Carrick, Contributing Writer

Leveling a concrete floor for tile

If you want to install vinyl tile or ceramic tile, things get a bit trickier. For a successful installation, the concrete floor beneath the tile needs to be more or less perfectly level and smooth. That’s true for compact tiles and even more critical for larger ones, including the popular 1-by-2-foot size.

With small tiles, the maximum differential between the lowest and highest point on the floor is 1/4 inch per 10 feet; with larger tiles, the acceptable differential is a mere 1/8 inch per 10 feet.

To achieve such flatness, use a self-leveling compound, such as Rapid Set Concrete Leveler Self-Leveling Underlayment. These products come in powdered form and are mixed with water and a fortifying agent. You end up with a thin liquid that when poured from a bucket flows across the existing uneven concrete. Gravity will bring the liquid to a level, but you can help the process along with a broom or trowel.

Mixing and applying self-leveling compound

Closely follow the manufacturer’s instructions, because every product differs slightly. Generally speaking, no matter which compound you choose, you’ll need to take prepare the basement beforehand:

• It’s important to remove any flaking paint or loose adhesive from the floor to ensure that the compound will grip to the concrete.
• So you don’t need an excessive quantity of compound, it’s a good idea to grind down any spots on the floor that are especially high.
• Floor drains must be capped and sealed around the seams.

Pro tip: Wear cleats or rubber boots in case you need to walk across the compound while it’s still wet.

Once the self-leveling compound has set, you can install your chosen flooring. Another option is to eschew a finished floor, and opt instead to stain, paint, or polish the compound that now forms the top layer of your concrete basement floor slab.

The post How to Level a Concrete Floor appeared first on Bob Vila.

Why is the radiator making noise?

In a typical steam heat system, a single pipe extends from the boiler to the radiators. At the point where the pipe connects to a radiator, you’ll find an intake valve. This component performs two functions. First, it feeds steam into the radiator. Second, once the steam cools and condenses into water, the intake valve allows the liquid to drain out of the radiator and return to the boiler. At least, that’s how things are supposed to work. But water often gets trapped in the radiator, and when that happens, steam is blocked from entering. As the trapper water and blocked steam play a game of tug-of-war, they produce the delightful symphony that keeps you up at night. So aside from being an awful racket, a noisy radiator means that your system isn’t operating as well as it should.

What to Do About a Noisy Radiator

Tilt it toward the intake valve.

A properly functioning steam radiator does not sit perfectly level on the floor. Rather, it tilts slightly toward the intake valve. That positioning allows condensed water to flow out of the radiator, not by means of a pump, but through the force of gravity. Therefore, if your radiator starts getting noisy, the first thing to check is check whether the radiator remains tilted toward the valve. Use a level, and if you see that the radiator sits level or is tilting away from the valve, intervene. Try slipping a wooden shim or paint stirrer under the legs on the end opposite to the valve. A tilt of only five degrees or so should do the trick.

Tried-and-True Advice

“Growing up in freezing-cold Scotland, I often dealt with noisy radiators that would clank and bang at all hours. One simple trick I found helpful was using a long-handled screwdriver to gently tap the top of the radiator. This can help release trapped air inside, which is often the cause of the noise. Just be sure to tap lightly—too much force could cause damage. It’s a quick fix that worked for me, and might help reduce the noise in your own radiator.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Insulate the radiator pipe.

If you’ve checked the radiator and found that it’s tilting correctly, a different common problem may be at play. Often, steam condenses in the pipe before it even reaches your radiator. If that’s the case, the fix is to insulate the pipe, wherever possible, along its run up from the boiler. Pipe insulation couldn’t be much easier to work with, but the portions of the pipe most in need of insulation may be hidden behind a wall.

Clean or replace the steam vent.

Another possible cause of radiator noise: the steam vent. Try this: Close the intake valve so that no steam can enter the radiator. Next, remove the steam vent from the radiator, placing it in a bowl of vinegar. Let it sit overnight. Doing so may help dissolve any calcium deposits that have gradually accumulated over time. If that doesn’t work, purchase a new steam vent to see whether the replacement fares any better. Readily available at most home centers, a new vent only costs about ten bucks, so it’s worth a shot if all else fails.

Finally, a friendly reminder regarding the use of steam radiators in general: The intake valve should be either fully open or fully closed. Leaving the valve partially open can result in leaks and damage to floors.

The post How to Fix a Noisy Radiator appeared first on Bob Vila.

“Dormers are a great way to improve usable attic space, but costs can quickly add up depending on the sort of roof that one is being added to, and how big the dormer might be,” says Mike Patterson, Production Manager for Smiley Renovations LLC in Bethesda, Maryland. “There are also considerations of what to do with HVAC, plumbing, or electric components, which might need to be modified or relocated. Those affect the budget as well.”

If you’re considering dormer windows for a new house construction or loft conversion, keep reading. We’ll explain the pros and cons and advise on the style options available.

What are dormer windows?

So what is a dormer window? This type of window sits vertically in a framed structure that juts outward from the pitch of the main roof and features a little roof of its own above the window. Dormer windows are often associated with Craftsman, Queen Anne, Colonial, Greek Revival, and other traditional architecture styles, but they can be found on any style of house that has a sloped roof.

Dormer windows first appeared in residential roofs in 16th-century Britain, where they helped direct natural light into attic sleeping areas. In residential construction, the use of dormer windows hasn’t changed much over the past few hundred years. They’re still valuable for bringing light into attics and lofts, but today, homeowners are more interested in choosing a style of dormer window to complement their house design.

Dormer vs. Gable

There are a lot of terms that architects and contractors use when discussing roofs, and it can be difficult to keep all of them straight. Both dormers and gables are parts of roofs, but are distinct architectural features. 

A dormer is a perpendicular protrusion from a sloped roof. While dormer and dormer window are often used interchangeably, they aren’t the same. All dormer windows are part of a dormer, but not all dormers have windows. Those without windows are called blind or false dormers. The extensions create more usable square footage without the additional natural light boost that a window would provide. 

A gable is the flat triangular portion of a roof that has two sloping sides. There are types of gable houses; the terms depend on the orientation of the house—whether the entry door is on a gable side or the sloped side. Those that have the entry on the gable side are called front-gable homes. Side-gable homes have the entry on a slanted roof side. Dormers aren’t found on the gable, but windows can be on gables. 

Dormer Window Styles

The style of the roof above the window defines the style of a dormer window. Often, a dormer roof matches the style of the house’s main roof, but there are plenty of exceptions. While a house with a gable roof can have a gambrel dormer, a shed dormer, or another style, the dormer roof often matches the main roof style. The type of roofing material on a dormer window also typically matches the roofing material on the main roof. If the main roof has asphalt shingles, for example, the roof over the dormer window likely will as well. 

Tip: Don’t place roof shingles on the sides of the dormer. The sides should be treated with the same siding material as the rest of the house.

While both traditional dormers and modern dormers exist, the following dormer window styles are common on today’s homes. Your favorite might just be among these dormer window ideas.

Gable Dormer

The most common style of dormer window features a gable (a triangular roof with slopes of equal pitch) over the window. Since it resembles a traditional dog house, it’s often called a dog-house dormer by contractors. 

Gambrel Dormer

The roof on a gambrel dormer features a gable at the peak of the roof, but then descends into two steeper roof slopes on the sides of the roof. Gambrel roofs often appear on traditional Dutch Colonial homes and barns, since a gambrel dormer has a barn-like feel.

Hipped Dormer

Unlike a hipped roof that has four equal sloped sides, a hipped window dormer features just three roof planes, one on each side and a third parallel to the front of the dormer. The fourth side of the dormer is the interior of the house. The three planes slope upward and meet at a common point at the peak of the dormer’s roof.

Shed Dormer

This dormer has only one roof plane that slopes in the same direction as the slope of the main roof, but with a much shallower pitch. The pitch of a shed dormer is sometimes so slight that it appears to be almost horizontal. Some slope is necessary, however, to allow water to run off.

Eyebrow Dormer 

Instead of flat roof planes, an eyebrow dormer roof features a gently curved wave that extends up and completely over the window. An eyebrow dormer has no additional vertical wall sides and can give the impression of an eye peering out from under a hooded lid. These are often found on shingle-style and Tudor homes.

Bonnet Dormer

A bonnet dormer has a curved roof—like half of a cylinder—and vertical walls on either side of the window. It’s common to install arch-top windows in bonnet dormers so the top of the window matches the arch of the bonnet. Though they are not popular as contemporary dormer windows, bonnet dormers might be featured on homes from the late 19th century. 

Wall Dormer

This type of dormer can appear on any one of the above styles of roofs, but its defining feature is that the front of the dormer is an extension of the exterior wall below. Instead of setting back in the middle of the roof, the siding on the main part of the house continues right up into the dormer, making the front of the dormer flush with the front of the house.

Lucarne Dormer

Inspired by those found on Gothic cathedrals, residential lucarne dormers are typically tall and narrow. Originally created just for ventilation, most feature gable roofs above the windows but can have a hipped or other style. Some also refer to all dormers as lucarnes. 

Blind Dormer

While most dormer windows permit light into the loft, a blind (or false) dormer is for adding extra space or for architectural massing. From the street, a blind dormer can appear identical to an ordinary dormer window, but instead of the dormer opening into the interior of the house, it merely attaches to the surface of the roof. While it can increase the usable space inside the top floor, it can also serve merely as decoration.

Pros and Cons of Dormer Windows

Dormer windows are desirable not just for bringing in natural light and adding extra usable space; they also have exterior aesthetic appeal. A common misconception about dormer windows is that they make interior spaces smaller, but without a dormer window, there could be even less usable space. The dormer window opens up part of the floor area for a person or piece of furniture to occupy and increase the light into the space. Otherwise, the top floor space would need to be rebuilt with a flat roof or even a mansard, which was developed to create a more usable attic floor. 

If you’re considering adding dormer windows to a new house or having one retrofitted on your existing home, the following benefits and drawbacks might help in the decision-making process.

Pros

• Interior illumination: Attics and lofts are naturally dim without a window to brighten the interior.
• Increased living space: The interior area of a typical dormer window can serve as a sleeping or reading nook, or hold a dresser or bench.
• Better airflow: An operable window in a dormer helps ventilate warm air out and fresh air in.
• Exterior appearance: Dormer windows attractively break up the long expanse of a roof, adding character and style.

Cons

• Added cost: It takes time and materials to build a dormer window, so installation cost is greater than the price of a roof without one. Plus, you might need to reroute HVAC, electrical, or plumbing, which adds to costs and might increase the number of trades that need to be involved in the project.  
• Increased leak risk: Dormers, like chimneys, penetrate the main roof, which means there’s a greater likelihood of leaks. Flashing—a method of interweaving shingles and sheet metal—is necessary to reduce the risk of leaks. Still, penetrations remain more leak-prone than other parts of the roof.

Dormer Window Cost

According to HomeAdvisor, adding a dormer window costs an average of $12,000, and can range from $2,500 to $30,000 per window, depending on the style, size, roof framing, roof type, and material choice. Prefab dormers, like this dormer window kit for a shed or garage, are also an option. However, prefab dormers designed for a home can cost between $8,000 and $14,000.  

Shed dormers are usually the least expensive option, and more complicated eyebrow and arched dormer windows can cost the most to install. However, a dormer provides about a 40 percent return on investment. 

Dormer Window Installation

Installing a dormer window is not a DIY project. Putting in a dormer window is strictly a job for the pros. It involves working on the sloped roof, and often requires complex angle-framing. If it’s a retrofit, an engineer must design the reconfiguration of the rafters necessary to support and install the new dormer. 

Dormer Windows in New Home Construction

Framing contractors will construct the frame of the dormer at the same time they frame the roof structure. Sheathing (the plywood that covers the framing studs) is attached to the outside dormer walls and over the rafters of the main roof at the same time. The next step is the installation of a vapor barrier wrap over the sheathing on the vertical walls of the dormer. 

A pro usually installs the window next, and then the roofing contractor will install the roof shingles over the dormer roof and the main roof at the same time so there is no noticeable transition between the two—just a seamless layer of shingles over the entire roof. The sides of the dormer are clad in exterior wall cladding like siding. When the exterior is complete, the interior of the dormer is finished (painted and trimmed) at the same time the interior loft space is finished.

Dormer Windows in Remodeling Projects

When a dormer window is retrofitted in an existing house, the main focus is to reduce the amount of time you have a gaping hole in your roof. 

Timing

It’s essential to consider the season and weather when scheduling the construction of a new dormer. “Opening a house in winter or a rainy season is going to require a lot more protection efforts,” says Patterson. “The size and competence of the crew make a difference also. A larger crew, with everything well planned, materials pre-cut etc., will get the dormer weathertight more quickly than one or two guys just plodding along. Every day open, there is more risk of damage,” he says.

For this reason, interior framing, such as alterations to the interior rafters or trusses (alterations that must be cleared by a structural engineer), is often done first, and then the contractor constructs the exterior frame of the dormer on the surface of the roof. 

Roof Framing 

When the interior framing is complete, the contractor cuts a connecting hole through the roof and then completes any necessary additional framing. “If the roof is made of trusses, any alterations need to be carefully looked at by a licensed professional engineer (PE),” says Patterson. “Stick-built roofs are a little easier to modify, but both require that the load path of the new dormer be properly installed down to the foundation—and still should use a PE. This can involve opening ceilings and walls below the work area to install posts or beams; adding costs that might not immediately be apparent.” 

The window is typically installed next and then the dormer can be wrapped with a vapor barrier before finishing the exterior and interior as desired.

Roof Shingles

If you’re thinking about retrofitting one or more dormer windows in an existing house, the best time to do it is when you’re replacing the shingles. That way, the roofing contractor can lay new shingles over the entire roof at the same time. This provides the most cohesive look because it can be difficult to perfectly match new shingles to existing ones.

Access to Finished Attic Space

“Another potential surprise can happen when deciding to turn an attic into finished living space, and that is how one gets up there,” says Patterson. “A steep attic staircase will likely need to be replaced with a code-compliant one, and space and money need to be found to do that work,” he says.

The post Dormer Windows: Styles, Pros, Cons, and Costs appeared first on Bob Vila.

As is the case with lawn mower blades, knives, and other sharp implements, you can bring trimmers in for professional sharpening, but you can save money by handling this job yourself. Follow the simple steps below on how to sharpen hedge trimmers.

Why It’s Important to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers

Sharpening your hedge trimmers allows you to make quick work of that pruning job, plus it contributes to the health of your plants. “Letting your trimmers go dull is like trying to cut steak with a butter knife,” says Bryan Clayton, a longtime landscaper and CEO of GreenPal, a company that matches homeowners with landscaping services. He says with dull blades, “You’ll end up tearing your hedges rather than cutting them cleanly, which can lead to unhealthy plants prone to disease.”

RELATED: AUDIO: Bob Vila Explains How to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers

Best Power Hedge Trimmer

Black+Decker 20V Max Cordless Hedge Trimmer, $64.98 at Lowe’s. This Black+Decker tool can cut through branches 3/4 inch in diameter. It has a padded front handle and enough battery power to trim up to 3,000 square feet. 

To discover other top-performing tools in this category, read our tested guide to the best hedge trimmers,

How often should you sharpen your hedge trimmers?

While you don’t need to sharpen your hedge trimmers often, you’ll need to give them a little TLC every now and then. “A good rule of thumb is to sharpen them at the start of the season, then check them every 50 hours of use,” Clayton says. It’s worth the time, he says, since “dull blades make your job harder.”

There are telltale signs that your hedge trimmer has dull blades:

• Frequent jams: If branches and foliage are getting jammed in between the hedge trimmer’s teeth, it’s likely because the blades aren’t sharp enough to cut through the material.
• Ragged cuts: Your hedge trimmer should cut cleanly through twigs and branches. If they’re chewing through them and leaving ragged cuts, then the blades are dull

Types of Hedge Trimmers

Power hedge trimmers come in several types, including gas, corded, and cordless electric models. Whether you own gas hedge trimmers, electric hedge trimmers, or battery-operated hedge trimmers, you’ll use the same process to sharpen the blades.

Project Overview

Working Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour
Skill Level: Intermediate
Estimated Cost: $10 to $15

Before You Begin

Sharpening a hedge trimmer involves working around blades and filing, which can send metal shavings airborne. Take the required safety precautions before getting started. “Wear gloves and eye protection,” says Clayton. “Always unplug electric trimmers before you start, and for both types, make sure the trimmer is securely clamped down or held in a vise.” If you are maintaining battery-powered hedge trimmers, remove the battery.

How to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers the Right Way

Step 1: Clean the trimmer blades.

Hedge trimmer blades often end up clogged with sap and pieces of branches and leaves. Start by removing any debris that’s caught in the trimmer’s teeth. Spray the blade with a little WD-40 to break down any sap that’s stuck to the blade. Give it a few minutes for the solvent to work its magic, then use a cloth to wipe the blades clean.

Step 2: Misalign the trimmer blades.

If the blades are aligned over top of each other, you’ll need to misalign them to expose all the edges so you can access each one with the file. Use a flathead screwdriver to reposition the blades so that each one is accessible.

Step 3: Sharpen with a flat file.

Using your flat file, sharpen each blade individually.

• File in the direction of the cutting edge only. Don’t use a back-and-forth sawing motion, since a flat file is designed to remove material in one direction only.
• Filing using the correct angle is crucial to getting a sharp edge. Check your trimmer’s manual for the proper angle for the specific hedge trimmer.
• File with care. Removing too much metal from the blades can weaken them, making the trimmer unusable.
• Be consistent with the number of strokes you make on each blade to ensure they’re a consistent length when done. “Just focus on sharpening the top edge of each blade, maintaining the original angle, and whatever you do, don’t touch the flat bottom side,” Clayton says. “That’s your guide for keeping the cut accurate.” After sharpening one tooth, move onto the next until you’ve sharpened each one.

Step 4: Use a whetstone to remove burrs.

Run a whetstone over the sharpened blades to remove any burrs that formed during sharpening. Remember, the blades cut by sliding against each other like a pair of scissors, so removing burrs that can interfere with this action is crucial.

Step 5: Spray with resin solvent.

Sharpening your hedge trimmers also removes any corrosion protection that was on the blades. Before you put the hedge trimmers back into service, you’ll need to restore that protection by applying a resin solvent to the blades. Spray the solvent onto the blades and wipe off any excess resin.

Final Thoughts

While learning how to sharpen hedge trimmer blades isn’t difficult, there is some risk to doing it yourself. Over-sharpening the blades can weaken them, making your hedge trimmer unusable. “Sharpening hedge trimmers isn’t rocket science, but it does require a steady hand and a bit of know-how,” Clayton says. “If in doubt, taking them to a professional isn’t just playing it safe; it’s ensuring your tools last longer and perform better.”

The post How to Sharpen Hedge Trimmers appeared first on Bob Vila.

Mold is a fungus that’s plentiful in the natural environment and, when conditions are right, indoors as well. The bathroom is damp, and often warm, so it can be a favorite spot for black mold to grow. 

According to Donald Weekes, a certified industrial hygienist in Ontario, Canada, and a member of the American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA) Indoor Environmental Quality Committee, “there is something in the neighborhood of 200,000 different types of mold.” Since it’s natural, alive, and goes airborne, mold can happen just about anywhere, Weekes says. Read ahead to learn what conditions support mold growth in your home, how black mold can make you sick, and what to do about black mold in a bathroom.

What is black mold?

The black mold species Stachybotrys chartarum is an aggressive and highly toxic mold variety that might be best removed by a professional. It’s among the world’s 10 most hazardous fungi. “Black mold, in particular, produces mycotoxins,” says Kenny Key, CEO and founder of Lead and Mold Detectives in New York. Those can lead to health problems, especially in the respiratory system.

It can be difficult to tell whether a fungus in your bathroom is black mold vs. mildew or another mold variety. But even as you consider the health effects and identification markers of black mold below, note that the experts we consulted agree that you should address any signs of mold, regardless of type. ”If you spot any mold in your bathroom—whether black or not—it’s important to take action immediately,” says Laura Linn Knight, author of The Toxic Mold Solution: A Comprehensive Guide to Healing Your Home and Body from Mold. Leaving any mold in place too long, especially without addressing moisture, can increase the chance the problem will progress to black mold.

Black Mold’s Impact on Health

Exposure to any mold over time can lead to health effects. The type and range depend on “the type of mold, the level of exposure, and the individual’s sensitivity,” says Knight. Potential health effects of mold exposure and black mold symptoms include:

• Respiratory issues—black mold exposure can cause or worsen asthma. Other signs are wheezing, coughing, sneezing, shortness of breath, and sinus infections.
• Allergic reactions, such as skin rashes, watery eyes, and even swollen eyes.
• Headaches, such as migraines
• Fatigue, dizziness, or vertigo
• Brain fog and difficulty concentrating
• Abdominal pain, nausea, bloating
• Mental health effects such as anxiety or depression.

The mycotoxins in black mold “can cause chronic fatigue, nausea, vomiting, and neurological symptoms like dizziness, confusion, and sometimes memory loss,” says Key. Knight says that mycotoxins can interfere with brain function, “contributing to mood swings, memory problems, and increased stress levels.” If you don’t address mold exposure like black mold in the shower, you can have “chronic, long-term health issues, including chronic respiratory problems and neurological effects,” says Knight.

How to Identify Black Mold in the Bathroom

Before knowing how to get rid of black mold in the bathroom, learn what conditions support mold growth. First, Weekes says to look for the three things mold needs to thrive: mold spores, a porous surface they can latch onto, and high humidity/moisture. Drifting through the air, mold spores eventually land on a moist surface amenable to mold, like cellulose, and “they’ll most likely land on that surface and grow,” says Weekes. 

To tell the appearance of black mold from other molds, look for a dark patch that forms in a circular pattern. “Black mold typically is darker in color, a black or greenish-black, and usually looks wet,” says Key. “Black mold also has a very distinct musty smell that can help in identification,” he says.

Still, black mold could lurk under bathroom floors or inside walls. The only sure way to identify black mold is to take a sample and test it—either by asking professionals to come in or by using a black mold test kit. Once you confirm the bathroom mold type and extent of the problem, you can learn how to remove black mold safely or seek professional help.

Before You Begin

Cleaning mold requires that you be near the spores. If you attempt to remove black mold, “you need to wear protective gear,” says Key. This includes gloves, goggles, an N95 respirator mask, and long sleeves. “Make sure you have proper ventilation in the area in which you’re working,” Key advises. Further, use similar caution when turning to various cleaning products; follow all instructions on the container and never mix chemicals, especially ammonia and bleach. 

Follow these protective measures to minimize exposure. If you notice any health effects from being near the black mold, it’s best to stop working and have a professional take over. Likewise, if you are uncertain about the type of mold or extent of the problem, notice significant water damage, or see that black mold covers more than 10 square feet of surface area, turn to a professional remediator instead.

How to Clean Black Mold From Bathroom Surfaces

SUPPLIES

N95 respirator mask
Rubber gloves or chemical-resistant gloves
Eye goggles
Distilled white vinegar
Detergent or antifungal cleaner
Hydrogen peroxide
Rags, sponges, or a scrub brush
BleachAmmonia

Without testing the mold, it can be difficult to know in advance what works best to kill black mold or another type. If uncertain and facing a small amount of stain, start with milder household products and move on to harsher ammonia if necessary. “Generally speaking, it’s the simplest product that works best,” says Weekes. When deciding how to eliminate mold in bathroom fixtures or walls, always consider the surface type, partly to avoid abrasive tools that might scratch the surface. In addition, porous surfaces can absorb all liquids, as well as the mold spores you can see.

How to clean hard surfaces, like ceramic tiles and bathroom countertops

Follow these directions for nonporous surfaces and fixtures include toilets, porcelain sinks, some shower or floor tiles, mirrors, and vinyl shower curtains. Unless they are sealed well, grouts and many types of caulk are porous. 

1. Spray the area with your preferred safe cleaner, such as distilled white vinegar or a mixture of vinegar and household detergent. You could also use undiluted 3% hydrogen peroxide or a commercial antifungal cleaner (follow manufacturer’s directions.)
2. Let the cleaner sit for several minutes, then spray again just before wiping.
3. After wiping the cleaner on the surface, check your results.
4. If mold remains, spray again and scrub with a brush or abrasive scrubber. Dry the area thoroughly and assess whether the cleanup was effective.
5. If mold remains after cleaning, clean the area again with ammonia and water (10 percent ammonia to 90 percent water).
6. If the problem persist, you may need to call in the experts.

The easiest way to clean a vinyl shower curtain is to remove it and soak it in a large tub or container filled with water and about a cup of white vinegar (or bleach if the curtain is colorfast) for about an hour. 

Only turn to bleach if necessary when cleaning black mold in bathrooms. Biocides like chlorine bleach kill living organisms such as mold, but the EPA does not recommend them for routine mold cleanup, even on nonporous surfaces. Weekes says the suggestion for years has been to use “water and about a 10 percent solution of ammonia.” You also can opt for a commercial product designed to kill mold, but check it carefully for safety precautions for surfaces and ventilation.

How to clean porous surfaces such as grout, ceiling tiles, and walls

Porous materials allow moisture—and mold—to penetrate their surfaces. In a bathroom, this might include wood, walls, wallpaper, carpet, unsealed grouts, caulk, and ceiling tiles. According to Weekes, mold will latch onto surfaces “made up of cellulose, like paper and wallboard.” He says the porous materials are “soft and chewy, which is why most problems are in walls and ceilings.” Even moisture-resistant wall materials like greenboard can take in mold if a shower surround or wall was not designed or installed properly or if excess moisture and mold have been allowed to sit on the walls.

Again, although you might see advice about using bleach to kill mold, apply that only to nonporous surfaces. “You don’t want to use bleach on a porous surface,” says Key. It could make the problem worse, since water in the bleach will penetrate the porous surface and add to moisture. Plus, Key says “black mold has a protective outer layer that bleach doesn’t penetrate effectively.” 

1. Select your treatment option. As with hard surfaces, start with the simplest or mildest option. White vinegar can help kill mold since it penetrates porous surfaces, and its acid could help rid crevices of mold.You also can use a commercial mold cleaner designed for multiple surfaces—follow package directions. If you have a small patch of black mold, skip right to the 10 percent ammonia and water solution.
2. Spray the product on the affected area and let it sit for a few minutes.
3. To avoid soaking the porous surface, wipe the area with a cloth or sponge, since a brush could harm porous surfaces.
4. To avoid soaking the porous surface, Wring out the cloth or sponge if you dip it in a solution or as it becomes damp from wiping. 
5. Gently wipe the wall again with a wrung-out sponge or cloth dipped in clean water.
6. To clean grout, dip a toothbrush in the cleaning solution and scrub the grout lightly before wiping with a cloth or sponge dipped in clean water and wrung out.
7. Help the porous surface dry quickly by opening windows or directing fans toward the cleaned area.
8. Let the wall dry for 24 hours if possible before checking results. 
9. If mold persists, repeat steps above or call in a pro.

According to the EPA, mold in ceilings and carpet can be difficult to impossible to remove since it fills the empty spaces and crevices of the porous materials. It is generally better to replace moldy ceiling tiles, carpet, or any large section of wall affected by mold.

When to Hire a Professional for Bathroom Mold Remediation

Tackling small spots of mold and mildew are easy DIY tasks and important bathroom maintenance to prevent black mold. But it’s important to know when you should call in a mold remediation professional instead. Professionals have the equipment and expertise to return your home to a safe state. They also can make recommendations on how to prevent mold from coming back in the future. 

“Times to call in a pro are when it’s more than 10 square feet of mold, or if there is structural damage like mold growing on the walls, ceilings, or floors,” says Key. If mold is hidden behind walls, under carpet, or in your HVAC system, he explains, you need a professional remediation. 

Your health and sensitivity also are factors, say Key and Knight. For example, those with asthma or allergies shouldn’t tackle black mold removal. “If you are sensitive to mold, I suggest hiring a professional to remove even a small amount of mold,” says Knight. Key adds: “If there is extensive water damage from flooding or minor damage in the bathroom from a leak,” you need a pro to treat that as well.

Key says to look for a licensed company in your state. All states have some type of certification for professional mold remediators. The AIHA maintains a list of industrial hygiene and environmental health and safety consultants. Mold inspection costs typically average around $656, but some companies will waive this fee if the customer hires them for remediation services. 

Black mold removal costs start at about $1,223 and average about $2,300. Homeowners insurance may cover mold remediation, depending on the circumstances.

How to Prevent Mold in Your Bathroom

The best way to address black mold in your bathroom is to prevent mold from growing and to address any mold or signs of moisture damage immediately. “Prevention is a matter of maintenance more than anything else,” says Weekes. This includes making sure your home is sealed from outside moisture, that you’re not seeing condensation on windows, mold on windowsills, or water activity on surfaces, and that your home has adequate ventilation.

Clean your bathroom regularly.

Thoroughly clean the bathroom weekly; this consistent regimen should keep mold spores from taking hold and running amok. If you see signs of bathtub mold or other mold or mildew, rotate an antifungal cleaner into the routine at least once a month. Store a spray bottle of vinegar in the bathroom, then apply it and let it air-dry after every shower or bath. And don’t simply paint over mold on walls; take steps to clean the spores first.

Keep bathroom surfaces dry between uses.

To prevent black mold in the shower, use a squeegee to remove water droplets from the shower walls, then towel down glass doors and tile to remove the remaining moisture from those surfaces. It’s even helpful to dry the floor, dry off shampoo bottles, and hang damp towels elsewhere. Prevent black mold in a bathroom sink by wiping the basin out after each use. If you see signs of black mold in a bathtub or around it, be sure to drain it completely, wipe down wet edges if necessary, and check for signs of cracks in or black mold in bathroom caulk around the tub, shower, windows, or sink.

Take steps to eliminate moisture from leaks or a poorly sealed home.

“One of the main contributors to mold growth is excess moisture,” says Knight. “Fix any leaks in your bathroom plumbing or shower as soon as possible to prevent water from pooling or seeping into the walls,” she says. When the weather allows, open your bathroom window after a shower. Add moisture-loving plants like orchids or peace lilies to soak up some of the moisture and green up the space.

Running an exhaust fan for at least 30 minutes after fogging up the bathroom with showers or laundry if located there can help, but if you already have mold spores, use caution. “Most bathroom vents go directly up into the attic,” says Weekes. The attic probably has plenty of porous and cellulose surfaces for those spores to grow. If your exhaust fan vents to the outside, it can help. However, Weekes says, the best ventilation comes from your air conditioning system. 

Use mold- or moisture-resistant construction.

“When renovating or maintaining your bathroom, consider using mold-resistant products,” says Knight, who says that new products like mold-resistant paperless drywall, vapor barriers or retarders, are always coming on the market. Opt for nonporous surfaces when possible, and ensure that all caulks, grouts, and joints are properly sealed to prevent water from seeping through cracks. 

Final Thoughts

According to Weekes, cleaners and other efforts help control mold, but you can’t be completely free of this living organism. “Mold has survived for hundreds of thousands of years. Anything that you can throw at it will not be completely effective,” he says. Still, managing moisture, regularly cleaning spores from surfaces, and getting rid of any black mold with these steps or through professional remediation can help. If black mold returns or spreads after you try to kill it, turn to a licensed mold removal company to help eliminate existing mold damage and correct issues like moisture or poorly constructed shower walls that support its growth.

The post Cleaning and Preventing Black Mold in the Bathroom appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you’re dealing with only a modest expanse of brick, or if you relish a challenge, there’s good news: Paint-stripping products have improved over the years, making the work friendlier to your health and to the brick itself. These new, safer formulations are the way to go. Many pros and DIYers recommend Citri-Strip. SmartStrip has its devotees, too. None are cheap, but all are comparably effective.

You may be tempted to try a short cut, possibly sandblasting or powerwashing the paint. This may do more harm than good, and leave the building material in a vulnerable condition. Many caustic, chemical-based paint-removal solutions compromise brick in a similar way. If you remove paint from brick using any of these potentially damaging methods, you may end up with a problem that’s much more serious than paint.

Tried-and-True Advice

“Before you start, I’d give serious thought to answering, ‘Just because I can do this project, should I do this project?’ The likelihood you can get all the paint off is near zero. The approaches to stripping paint from brick, heat or chemicals, re-liquefy the paint, turning it into a sloppy slurry that is hard to manage.

First, you could try a heat gun brick-by-brick. Start on low and heat up the paint. It’ll bubble on the surface of the brick like cheese melting, and that’s your signal to scrape the paint from the brick. I’d use a 1-inch Hyde putty knife for this. As you go, adjust the heat gun to match your site conditions. For example, there may be multiple coats of paint that require more heat. That said, if there is lead paint, heat is a no-go because re-liquefying that paint can cause noxious fumes. Also, brick can fracture if it gets too hot.

Second, you can try chemicals. The chemicals also heat up the paint and render it a slop. Plus there is the additional gel of the actual chemical to deal with. It’s literally a hot mess.”

—Mark Clement, Contributing Writer

If you’re dealing with old brick, it’s critical to not to clean the brick in a way that does lasting harm. Today, the best solutions are gel or paste compounds, followed by fabric-based peeling strips. The paint stripper triggers a chemical reaction that causes the paint to soften and adhere to the fabric. In the final step, the fabric strips are peeled away, taking the paint with them in the process and exposing the natural brick. Know what you’re getting into, though. The right paint stripper can do much of the work for you, but most situations call for a great deal of further scrubbing and/or scraping by hand.

How to Remove Paint From Brick

Step 1: Test the paint stripper.

Before applying a stripping agent to painted brick, test the stripper on an inconspicuous part of the installation. You may find that the stripper you’ve chosen does not work as well as expected, or you may discover the brick was painted to conceal its poor condition. Another good reason to start with a test: Doing so gives you a sense of how much effort the job is going to take. You may still opt to hire a pro, or you may decide you can put up with the paint.

Step 2: Protect yourself and your work area.

Stripping paint from brick is a messy job. Minimize cleanup by setting up your work area in a thoughtful way. First, lay down a series of drop cloths or some thick plastic sheeting to catch the peeling and flaking paint that will fall away from the brick. Don’t forget to tape the drop cloth or plastic to the bottom edge of the brick. If you don’t want to disturb the finish of nearby painted areas—the adjacent wood trim, perhaps—take the time to cover it up completely with painter’s tape.

Don the protective gear recommended by the manufacturer of the paint stripper you’ve chosen.

Step 3: Apply the paint stripper.

Before applying the gel or paste, start out by scraping away any paint that’s already loose. Next, using a trowel or a specialized tool provided by the paint stripper manufacturer, apply the compound to the brick. Be thorough, making sure to push the gel or paste into all the little crevices in the brick and mortar. Layer by layer, build the stripper up to the thickness recommended by the manufacturer.

Step 4: Position the peeling strips.

With the compound in place, start positioning the peeling strips. Typically made of fabric, these strips should be pressed and held against the stripper until firmly attached. Overlap the strips so that no brick remains visible. Once the strips have been applied, let them set for the period of time stipulated by the manufacturer. In many cases, particularly when multiple paint layers are involved, it takes a full 24 hours for the compound to cure and really work its magic.

Step 5: Remove the strips.

Once sufficient time has passed, return to the work area and begin lifting off the strips. If necessary, use the trowel to gain purchase behind any sluggish strips. Peel the strips in a slow and deliberate fashion; don’t rip them. As you peel, the paint beneath should come off too. Wherever the strips leave behind either compound or paint, use the trowel to flake off as much residue as possible. If the trowel doesn’t cut it, scrub with a stiff-bristled brush and rinse with water. If it wasn’t already clear, now it is: Removing paint from brick is a labor-intensive, if not grueling, project.

Dispose of the used strips according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For some products, the chemical reaction stops on its own, while for others it stops only after the addition of a neutralizing chemical. Also important: Do not attempt to remove paint from brick if, within a month or so, there’s any chance that the temperature is going to fall below freezing. If the brick doesn’t dry completely before the frost, it will be especially likely to succumb to damage.

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