1. For front steps, car windshields and doors, and other small areas, try rubbing alcohol.

Alcohol has a much lower freezing point than water. This homemade de-icer recipe harnesses its ice-melting potential: Combine 4 gallons of hot water, 16 ounces of rubbing alcohol, and 1 teaspoon of dish soap. (The dish soap reduces the surface tension of the water, helping the solution spread more evenly.) Pour the solution over icy areas, and then use a shovel to clear off loose ice and water.

For icy car doors or windshields, pour some of the cooled solution into a spray bottle and spritz the frozen areas. Keep a bottle of this solution in the car so you’re ready if the windshield gets frosted over when you’re far from home.

2. For walkways and driveways, try salt.

Rock salt, or sodium chloride, is the most common (and cheapest) ice melt around. It works by lowering the freezing point of water, eventually breaking down the ice. If you don’t have any rock salt handy for de-icing, table salt can do in a pinch. For best results, remove as much snow as possible from the surface before applying the salt. Because of its small granule size, table salt will start working faster than rock salt, but it won’t provide the same traction. As well, table salt tends to turn ice into tough-to-move slush, while rock salt is more likely to break it down into manageable chunks. For small areas, such as the front steps, try mixing warm water with table salt and applying this solution; this method also works for unsticking car tires. Though cheap and usually plentiful, salt has a few drawbacks: It is not effective at the low temperatures that some of the best commercial ice melts can handle. As well, it can harm plants, corrode metal and concrete, and impact fish and wildlife if it gets into waterways, so avoid regular use.

3. If you have nothing else available, try fertilizer.

Ammonium sulfate, a common ingredient in commercial fertilizers, works by lowering the temperature at which ice melts. While it doesn’t melt ice immediately, it speeds the process along. If you have no other potential ice melt around, check your leftover fertilizer to see if ammonium sulfate is listed as a component. To use, scatter it over the ice. Although fertilizer can help melt ice, it’s not recommended. Overuse can harm plants, fertilizer chemicals can damage concrete surfaces, and fertilizer runoff from melting ice is an environmental concern.

The post Homemade Ice Melt Recipes: 3 Solutions for When You’re Iced In appeared first on Bob Vila.

Even if you have installed a new unit recently, you should know how to clean a dishwasher in order to eliminate grime and unpleasant odors and maximize its efficiency. Follow these simple steps to learn how to clean your dishwasher to keep it sparkling clean, sweet smelling, and in optimal working order.

Step 1: Access and clear the dishwasher drain. 

Pull out and remove the bottom rack. Wearing rubber gloves, thoroughly examine the area around the drain, and remove any gunk or chunks you find. (This debris not only impedes drainage, it also can damage the appliance.) While you’re at it, if your dishwasher has a removable filter, take it out and clean it. Run it under warm soapy water, and if necessary scrub lightly with a sponge or an old toothbrush. Clean the area around the filter before you replace it.

Step 2: Place a cup of vinegar in the dishwasher.

Fill a dishwasher-safe container with 1 cup of white vinegar, and place it on the upper rack of the otherwise empty machine.

Step 3: Run the dishwasher through a hot-water cycle.

Close the door and run the dishwasher through a hot-water cycle.

Once the vinegar has worked its magic, you should open the door to a pretty clean dishwasher. Most, if not all, of the grease and grime will have washed away, and any musty odors should be gone.

Step 4: Complete a short rinse cycle with baking soda.

Sprinkle a cupful of baking soda across the bottom of the appliance, then run it on a short hot-water cycle. Whatever food smells weren’t wiped out with vinegar will be absorbed by the baking soda, the same way they are when you place a box of Arm & Hammer in the fridge.

The slightly abrasive nature of baking soda will act like a scrub for the appliance too. When the cycle’s done, you should notice that your fresh-smelling dishwasher now boasts a brightened, stain-free interior. Don’t try to skip a step and place the baking soda and vinegar in your dishwasher together; you might end up with a mess.

Step 5: If there’s additional mildew or mold in the dishwasher, consider running a cycle with bleach.

This step is optional. Complete it only if your dishwasher still contains mold or mildew after you’ve finished the previous steps.

If your dishwasher has suffered a vicious attack from nasty mold, vinegar can kill mildew, but some dire cases may require the cleansing power of bleach. Never use bleach on a dishwasher with a stainless steel interior or stainless steel parts. Bleach and stainless steel are not friends. If your stainless steel dishwasher still has mold and mildew after you’ve run cleaning cycles, try another vinegar cycle as instructed in Step 2.

For dishwashers that can be cleaned with bleach, pour 1 cup of bleach in the bottom of the dishwasher, or put a cup of bleach in a dishwasher-safe container in the top rack, then run the machine for a full cycle at the hottest setting.

Step 6: Clean the dishwasher’s seal and exterior.

Repeat the above steps every 1 to 2 months, and you’re likely to add years of service to this hardworking machine that tackles your least favorite chore. One more tip: When you clean your dishwasher, don’t forget to wipe down the sides and top of the door as well as the seal between the door and the tub; water does not reach these areas during a cycle. Finally, wipe down the exterior of the appliance. Remember, a clean dishwasher is an effective dishwasher.

How Cleaning a Dishwasher With Vinegar and Baking Soda Works

A natural cleaner with many talents, white vinegar takes care of two big problems that often plague dishwashers: clogs and smells. Count on it to cut through grease lining the walls of the dishwasher after endless loads of dirty dishes, clear away old detergent buildup, and even dissolve mineral deposits—all of which could one day clog the plumbing and cause your appliance to underperform. The fact that white vinegar neutralizes food odors so your dishwasher won’t smell is a bonus.

Like vinegar, baking soda is great at tackling odors, but it also has stain-fighting abilities. Because it’s lightly abrasive, baking soda is effective at loosening stains and built-up grime. When you clean your dishwasher with vinegar and baking soda, you’re aiming a powerful one-two punch at the food deposits, grease, and odors that accumulate in your dishwasher over time.

When cleaning a dishwasher, you can achieve similar results by using a package of unsweetened lemonade mix instead of vinegar. Simply pour the powder into the detergent dispenser and run a wash cycle. The citric acid in the lemonade mix works in much the same way as vinegar, cutting through lingering food particles.

When shopping for lemonade mix, look for unsweetened lemonade, and be sure that citric acid is on the list of ingredients. Don’t get fancy with your lemonade flavors, either; varieties like strawberry and raspberry can leave stains. If you don’t have lemonade mix handy, try running a cycle with a cup of lemon juice in a dishwasher-safe bowl in the top rack of the dishwasher.

Tips for Maintaining a Clean Dishwasher

Now that you know how to clean your dishwasher, perhaps the best way to keep it looking great and working well is to treat it with respect and consideration day in and day out—after all, the machine isn’t invincible.

Observing a few simple usage guidelines can help you wring the best possible performance from this workhorse appliance, even as you prolong its lifespan.

• The dishwasher shares a drain with the kitchen sink. If you have a garbage disposal, run it before starting a cycle to ensure that the drain is clear.
• It’s smart to conserve electricity and water by running the dishwasher only when it’s full, but resist the temptation to pile dishes too high or too tightly. This prevents the sudsy water from traveling around all sides of each dish and getting your load completely clean.
• Don’t prewash dishes too thoroughly before adding them to the dishwasher. For dishwasher detergent to do its job effectively, there needs to be some grease and food residue present. Otherwise, the detergent simply creates foam during the wash cycle, and that excess can be detrimental to the appliance.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve ever wondered how to clean a dishwasher, you now know the best way to tackle this chore. To keep the appliance working well and odor-free, clean it every 1 to 2 months. Cleaning a dishwasher is simple: just remove any dishes and run a cycle, using a natural cleaner like white vinegar, baking soda, or lemon juice. As an alternative, put unsweetened lemonade mix in the detergent dispenser; the citric acid cuts through grease and grime.

If the dishwasher has stubborn mold or mildew, run a cycle with a cup of bleach in the top rack. But do not do this if your dishwasher has a stainless steel interior or stainless steel parts. Bleach damages stainless steel surfaces.

If, despite your best efforts, your dishwasher’s performance keeps sliding, or if its interior is cracked or starting to rust, it may be time for a new dishwasher. Upgrading has its benefits: Newer models tend to be quieter, and they’re stingier with water and energy.

FAQs

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If the plunger doesn’t do the job, don’t rush off and call the plumber quite yet. Instead, summon the toilet snake, also known as a closet snake, closet auger, or toilet auger. With this specialized plumbing tool and a little persistence, a typical DIYer should be able to learn how to use a toilet snake to tackle a straightforward clog and flush the problem away.

Step 1: Rent or buy a toilet snake.

If you don’t own a drain snake, you can either purchase one or you can rent one from a home center for about $15 a day. Prices range from $15 to $70 or even more, depending on the length of the cable, the sturdiness of the tool, and any extra features. Either option is less expensive than the average cost of bringing in a plumber, which can run upward of $100 per hour.

Before you get to work, familiarize yourself with the mechanics of the toilet snake. It’s essentially a long metal cable that sits in a hollow tube with a curved fitting at the base. This curve angles into the toilet drain, making it easier to feed the cable through to unclog the drain. A rubber sleeve at this end protects the toilet from scratches from the metal cable, and a crank at the other end helps work the cable down into the pipe. There are also powered augers that attach to a drill or driver, but manual augers are usually up to the task, and they’re also cheaper, easier to use, and less likely to cause damage. Kodi Wilson, campus director of National Technical Institute’s Las Vegas campus, cautions, “I would never recommend a homeowner to work with a powered snake on their own. This would risk injury and property damage. A hand-driven auger, on the other hand, is a great backup to a plunger.”

Step 2: Prep the bathroom.

Put on your rubber gloves and place a large, empty bucket next to the toilet. Have some towels ready in case you make a mess.

Step 3: Place the snake in the toilet bowl.

Holding onto the tube with one hand, use the other to pull back the handle of the snake so the end of the cable is near the end of the tube; the curved “boot” should protect the bottom of the toilet from scratches. Position the end of the snake in the toilet drain, aiming the cable toward the back of the drain.

Step 4: Feed the snake into the drain.

Holding the tube of the snake firmly in place with one hand, use the other to push down on the handle while turning it clockwise to extend the cable down into the drain. You may feel a little resistance as you feed the snake around curves. (Snaking a toilet drain can require patience, and you may need to work the cable forward and back a bit to move it farther down the drain.) Keep going until the snake hits something and won’t go any farther—you’ve reached the clog.

Pull back slightly on the snake. If you feel resistance, you may have hooked the source. If so, pull back on the cable to bring the clog to the surface. Remove it from the bowl and dispose of it in the bucket.

But you don’t have to actually pull out the clog. You can instead break it up into smaller pieces that can travel down the drain. “Pushing or pulling the clog doesn’t really matter. The goal is to get your drain flowing again,” Wilson says. There are, however, exceptions. “Septic systems can be more sensitive to what can go down the drain. If you know the clog is a toy or a diaper or something else that should not be in the drain, it is best to try and remove it. You often don’t have a choice, though; it’s more of a hope that your auger catches rather than pushes it through,” he adds.

To break up a clog, crank the cable as far as it will go, and then work it forward and backward, turning alternately clockwise and counterclockwise. Once you’re able to move the snake farther and more freely, you’ve breached the clog. Remove the auger and stick the business end in the bucket.

Step 5: Flush the clog.

You may want access to the flush valve if the toilet starts to overflow when you flush, so before doing a test flush, remove the tank lid and set it aside carefully. Then flush the toilet and confirm that the water rushes down the bowl.

If the toilet flushes successfully, you’re done. But if the water continues to rise, quickly turn the water shutoff behind the toilet clockwise until the water stops. If you can’t get to it fast enough, lift the float arm (the horizontal arm at the top right of the fill valve that attaches to the float) to cut off the flow of water, and hold it up (or find something to wedge it in place) while you access the shutoff. Alternatively, simply disconnect the refill tube (the small tube that carries water from the fill valve to the overflow tube) and let the water run into the tank until the water level triggers the valve to shut.

For a toilet that flushes but drains slowly, try plunging first—you may not need to snake the toilet drain again. But if it’s completely clogged, you’ll need another go with the snake.

Step 6: Clean the area.

To clean up, throw out any large clumps and then flush the rest back into the toilet in small amounts, making sure it all goes down without causing a new clog. Then thoroughly clean the bucket and the auger with hot water and bleach or vinegar before putting it away or returning it to the store. Finally, keep an eye on the toilet over the next few days to make sure everything’s still running smoothly.

How to Avoid Future Toilet Clogs

Now that you know how to use a snake to unclog a toilet, save yourself from a repeat performance by being careful with what you and your family put in the commode. The safest approach is to flush toilet paper only. Never flush sanitary products, paper towels, tissue paper, cotton balls, cotton swabs, dental floss, or hair. If you have particularly old or sensitive pipes, consider switching to a lower-ply brand of toilet paper to help keep things moving along.

Other Ways to Unclog a Toilet

First of all, avoid using caustic drain cleaners to unclog your toilet bowl. Some of these products can be bad for the environment and may damage toilets and plumbing pipes. (If you do end up calling in the pros after using a heavy-duty drain cleaner, be sure to let the plumbers know so they can take precautions to do the work safely.) There are, however, some DIY ways to unclog a toilet if you have neither a plunger nor a snake handy.

• Baking soda and vinegar: Add or remove water from the bowl so it’s filled halfway with water. Pour in about 1 cup of baking soda and follow up with at least 1 cup of distilled white vinegar. Wait about 30 minutes and then pour hot (not boiling) water down the drain. If the water level drops or you see bubbles rising up through the water, try flushing the toilet. (Be ready to shut off the water and grab some towels if the bowl starts overflowing.) If you have a plunger, try plunging. Repeat the process if necessary.
• Dish soap: Pour about 1 cup of dish soap—choose a dense, grease-cutting variety—steadily into the bowl so it drops to the bottom. After an hour, slowly pour some hot, not boiling, water into the bowl and wait about 30 minutes. (We find that pouring water from a standing height, rather than just above the toilet, gets better results.) Try flushing the toilet, but again, be ready to shut off the water and lay down some towels if the bowl starts to overflow.

When to Call a Plumber

Don’t give up too quickly when you’re snaking the toilet. It may take several tries to manipulate the cable into position and break up or remove the clog. But if you’ve been persistent and the toilet is still clogged, call in a trusted plumber. Wilson advises consulting a pro “if you need to remove the toilet, if the clog is beyond 6 feet, or if this is a recurring issue. Plumbers can use their expertise to evaluate the problem and approach it with the best long-term solution while providing the homeowner with information about the cause.”

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Two varieties of paneling that have been especially popular in recent years are shiplap and tongue and groove. While they share similarities, each has distinct characteristics. Read on to learn what separates shiplap from tongue and groove so you can pick the paneling that’s best suited to your home’s style and your needs.

Differences Between Shiplap and Tongue and Groove Panels

Profile

Once installed, shiplap and tongue and groove can look very similar. But if you examine the planks before installation, you’ll spot the biggest difference between them right away.

Each edge of a shiplap plank has a small L-shaped notch (or rabbet) running down its full length. The notches allow each plank to lap over the notch in the adjacent plank. During installation, these notches fit together like little steps, forming what is called a rabbet joint. Often, shiplap planks have a “V” groove, a gentle bevel along the edges, giving the appearance of a slight valley between planks in the finished shiplap wall paneling.

Tongue and groove planks, in contrast, have a small projection sticking out of the center of one edge and a corresponding indentation along the other edge. During installation, the tongue of one plank fits into the groove of its neighbor. Like shiplap, tongue and groove planks are available beveled along the lengthwise edge (V-groove) or unbeveled (known as flush joint or square edge), resulting in a somewhat tighter appearance than shiplap. It’s this snug fit and seamless look that makes tongue and groove the industry standard for hardwood flooring.

Materials

Most shiplap and tongue and groove planks are wood. If you plan to paint the finished paneling, you’ll save money by using inexpensive pine planks or MDF, both of which are available primed. If you’re on a really tight budget, you can even use plywood. But if you plan to leave the paneling unpainted, you may be happier with a more attractive (and pricier) type of wood, such as oak or cedar.

You’ll also find shiplap and tongue and groove planks made from fiber cement, vinyl, and even metal, although these are most often used for exterior siding rather than for decorative treatments.

Cost

The cost of installing either shiplap or tongue and groove varies greatly depending on the material, room size, the area you live in, and whether you’re planning to do the job yourself. Even so, you can typically expect to pay more for tongue and groove paneling than for shiplap. Including installation, expect tongue and groove to cost about 50 percent more than shiplap. 

Shiplap boards: $2.50 to $7 and up per square foot

Shiplap with professional installation (200 sq. ft. room): $1,000 to $1,700

Tongue and groove boards: $2.50 to $8 and up per square foot

Tongue and groove with professional installation (200 sq. ft. room): $1,400 to $2,200

Installation

As a general rule, it’s a little easier to install shiplap paneling than tongue and groove paneling because you don’t need to fit the planks together. Instead, you simply match the notches on neighboring boards and then pound a nail straight through the overlap. Installing tongue and groove requires more precise nailing, as you’ll need to hammer the nail through the planks’ “tongues” for secure results.

Durability

While both shiplap and tongue and groove can be used indoors or out, it’s important to take climate conditions into account before selecting one of these paneling styles for the exterior of your house, backyard shed, or garage. As a general rule, shiplap is the better choice for a very rainy climate, as its overlapping planks shed water quite well. Tongue and groove, on the other hand, can deteriorate in wet climates if water gets trapped inside the interlocking connections.

Shiplap is also the superior choice if you live in a high-heat, low-humidity climate, where the dry air tends to encourage slight shrinkage of wood. This can lead to gaps between the tongue and groove boards but isn’t likely to show in shiplap’s overlapping connections. If cold weather is an issue where you live, note that tongue and groove has slightly better insulating ability than shiplap.

Tongue and groove, however, may have the edge in indoor durability. Drew Mansur, director of TileCloud, a tile and renovation shop in Rosebery, New South Wales, Australia, says “The interlocking design of tongue-and-groove tends to make it more durable and resistant to shifting or warping over time.” Mansur, who has years of experience in home renovation, adds, “While shiplap will still hold up well, it will be more susceptible to forming gaps if the material shifts.”

Best Uses for Shiplap and Tongue and Groove Paneling

Both shiplap and tongue and groove paneling have been trending decorative finishes in recent years, especially in modern farmhouse, cottage, coastal, and rustic interiors. While they’re often used to panel entire walls, particularly in the kitchen or bathroom, either style can be used for an accent wall or even a backsplash or fireplace surround. 

Another option is to panel only the lower portion of the walls, as with wainscoting. If you really love the modern farmhouse or coastal decorating styles, you might even choose to use shiplap or tongue and groove on the ceiling. In fact, tongue and groove is a classic ceiling choice for porches.

If you’re installing wood paneling in a bathroom, don’t install it where it can come in direct contact with water (say, in a shower enclosure), make sure the paneling is properly sealed, and take precautions to control bathroom humidity. Avoid using MDF shiplap or tongue and groove boards in the bathroom, as MDF can swell or warp when exposed to moisture. 

Final Thoughts

While shiplap and tongue and groove have been very popular in recent years, there are actually many other wall paneling styles, including beadboard and board and batten, as well as variations on shiplap, such as nickel gap, which has thin spaces between adjoining boards. As interior designer Danielle Perdue, founder of design firm DK Home in Westport, Connecticut, notes, “Wood paneling is extremely versatile and can be customized. For example, you may choose a narrower board with smaller gaps in between to create a more modern feel…. Reeded or fluted panels have also become extremely popular and add that touch of sophistication.”

If you’re worried about committing to shiplap or tongue and groove paneling, Perdue says, “I don’t think shiplap or tongue and groove paneling will ever go out of style. It’s simply too good and, in my opinion, timeless.” That said, if you already have paneled walls and are beginning to tire of the look, she recommends updating them with paint: “Have fun with a pop of color or go with a high gloss for maximum impact.”

The post Shiplap vs. Tongue and Groove: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Bob Vila.

By cleaning your toilet tank just twice a year you can keep your bathroom smelling fresh, extend the life of the flushing mechanisms, and maybe even keep your toilet bowl a little cleaner. So what are you waiting for? Knock out this one job quickly and make your bathroom truly spotless by following this guide on how to clean a toilet tank.

Project Overview

Working Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 1.5 to 13 hours, depending on soaking time
Skill Level: Beginner
Estimated Cost: $4

Cleaning a Toilet Tank in 7 Steps

It almost goes without saying, but we recommend donning rubber gloves before beginning this task. It’s also helpful to lay a thick towel on the floor, so you have a protective layer between the toilet tank lid and your bathroom tile.

Step 1: Assess the condition of your tank.

Remove the lid from the tank and place it carefully on a nearby surface. Flush the tank and check that the water is coming into the tank from the fill valve, that the flapper or cartridge seals securely, that there isn’t too much slack in the chain that connects the lever to the flapper, and that the toilet doesn’t continue to run after the flapper or cartridge closes. If anything isn’t operating correctly, plan on making some repairs after you’ve cleaned the tank (see Step 5).

After checking the flushing action, look at the condition of the inside of the tank. If you notice just a bit of surface grime and dirt, move on to Step 2. If, however, the inside of the tank is discolored from mineral deposits and you see a lot of residue at the bottom of the tank, jump to Step 3.

Step 2: Clean the tank.

If the tank isn’t very dirty and doesn’t have much sediment at the bottom, here’s how to clean the toilet tank without draining it. Put on rubber gloves and either scrub the sides and bottom of the tank with a long-handled brush and a little dish soap, or pour in about 4 to 6 cups of white vinegar and let it sit for about an hour. (Vinegar is a great line of defense against mold and mildew, hard water deposits, and more.) After the tank has soaked, scrub down the inside of the tank with a long-handled brush. (Be sure to wear gloves.) Use a smaller brush or an old toothbrush to clean any slime or discoloration from the fill or flush valves. When you’re done, flush a few times to clear out the vinegar and dirty water. Continue flushing until the water in the toilet bowl is clear.

If this method didn’t quite get your toilet tank clean, proceed to Step 3.

Step 3: Empty the tank.

If your tank is heavily soiled, you’ll have to drain the water before cleaning it. Locate the shut-off valve, which is usually behind the toilet, toward the base. Turn it all the way clockwise to cut off the water supply. Flush the toilet repeatedly—two or three flushes should do it—until it drains completely. There may be about a half inch of water left in the tank, and that’s fine. If there’s a lot of sediment at the bottom of the tank, you can wipe it out with a sponge or rags. Have a bucket nearby to squeeze out and rinse the sponge until the sediment has been cleared out. Alternatively, you can use a wet/dry vac to vacuum out the sediment.

Step 4: Soak and scrub the tank.

Fill the tank up to the overflow tube (the tube connected to the flush valve) with equal parts water and white vinegar. Depending on the size of your tank, this could take as many as 3 gallons of vinegar. Let the solution sit without flushing for a few hours or overnight. When you’re ready to start scrubbing, flush the vinegar out. Again, this may take two or three flushes.

When the tank is empty, put on rubber gloves and start scrubbing the inside of the tank. For especially stubborn stains, fill a spray bottle with a half-and-half solution of vinegar and water and spray down the sides as you scrub.

Step 5: Make any necessary repairs or adjustments.

If you have repairs to make, it’s a good idea to do them now, while the water is off and the tank is still empty. Even if the flapper is still working, if it’s sticking, or if it seems either very stiff or very soft, you might want to get a toilet repair kit and replace it and other major toilet parts (it makes sense to do them all at once). These are all signs of an aging flapper—most flappers last just 3 and 5 years. If you have no repairs to make, move on to Step 6.

Step 6: Wipe down the flapper.

Using just water and a sponge or rag, wipe down the toilet flapper. If there’s accumulated sediment and slime remaining on any of the parts, including the flapper and the fill valve, scrub them with a small brush or a toothbrush or wipe them off with a sponge.

Step 7: Refill the tank.

Turn the handle on the shut-off valve counterclockwise all the way to refill the tank. Flush the toilet a couple of times, checking the action of the flush mechanism to make sure the flapper is closing firmly and the toilet is refilling efficiently. If not, make adjustments (shorten or lengthen the chain or turn the adjustment screw on the fill valve).

RELATED: How to Make a DIY Toilet Cleaner

How to Keep a Toilet Tank Clean

Now that your toilet tank is clean, take steps to keep it that way. By minimizing rust stains and mineral deposits in the tank, you may be able to extend the life of the flush and fill valves, and the toilet bowl will stay cleaner too. Try these strategies for keeping the tank clean between cleanings.

• You may be tempted to use tank tablets, which combat toilet staining caused by mold, minerals, and limescale. Be careful, though. Many tablets as well as commercial toilet bowl cleaners include bleach and other chemicals that can corrode metal parts inside the tank and damage the rubber seals. Also, the use of in-tank cleaners may void manufacturers’ warranties. If you choose to use tablets, avoid any that contain bleach, and limit yourself to tablets marketed as “natural” or “chemical-free.”
• If sediment and stains build up rapidly in your tank, once or twice between cleanings, pour a few cups of vinegar in your tank (as in Step 2), let it sit for an hour or so, and then flush several times until the water in the bowl is clear. Doing this occasionally may help kill mildew and dissolve mineral deposits before they become a problem.
• Be especially vigilant if you have hard water or if you have a toilet that gets used rarely (for instance, a toilet in a guest room or the basement). With hard water, mineral deposits may build up more quickly, and when a toilet is rarely flushed, the standing water can promote mineral buildup, staining, and mold growth. Lift the lid every month or so to check for staining and sediment buildup, and make sure that you flush the toilet at least once a week to keep the water moving.

Final Thoughts

While you don’t need to clean the toilet tank frequently, giving it a quick inspection and scrubbing once or twice a year can keep the toilet working well, cut down on odors, and minimize staining. It’s important not to use harsh chemicals, and especially not bleach, when you clean the toilet tank. Many manufacturers will void warranties if you use in-tank cleaners, so keep your cleaning efforts simple, limiting yourself to good, old-fashioned elbow grease, diluted vinegar, and maybe a little dish soap. The job isn’t particularly difficult or time-consuming, and when you do it, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing that your bathroom is clean, inside and out.

FAQs

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Why Houseflies Are Harmful

Houseflies may not deliver a painful bite or sting the way bees, wasps, gnats, and horseflies (their bigger cousins) do, so they can seem benign. But houseflies constantly flit back and forth between trash, manure, and decaying matter, picking up bacteria that can contaminate your food. Transmission typically occurs when a fly regurgitates directly on food or on surfaces that humans touch. This can cause a number of illnesses, including:

• Food poisoning
• Dysentery
• Cholera
• E. coli
• Typhoid fever
• Tuberculosis
• Eye infections

As if this litany of ills weren’t enough, we can expect to see increasing numbers of these little critters as the planet warms up. A 2019 Canadian study that modeled fly population size and activity under various climate scenarios predicted a roughly 30 percent increase in the transmission of campylobacter, a bacteria that causes gastrointestinal illness, by 2050.

Infestations start small. Although you may at first spy just one fly, females can lay five to six batches of 100 eggs that hatch in 12 to 24 hours, leaving you wondering, “Why are there so many flies in my house?” To get rid of houseflies, you’ll need a multipronged approach. Use these strategies to prevent houseflies from becoming a real problem at your place.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I prefer to keep my windows open in the summer, but with the sunshine and breeze comes flies. I’ve tried various methods for keeping them out, including DIY fly traps using apple cider vinegar, and natural repellents like lavender and eucalyptus.

The best defense, I’ve found, is a combination of these things. Keep a few DIY traps out where the flies tend to congregate, and at the same time cultivate a few houseplants that have natural repellent properties. The added benefit of this strategy is that you’ll always have herbs around to use for other purposes, such as cooking or making aromatics.”

—Chase Brush, Contributing Writer

7 Things You Can Do to Get Flies Out of Your House

1. Seal flies’ pathways into the house.

It can be challenging to keep nuisance flies out when you’ve got a busy household of family members, pets, and visitors coming and going, but a good defense is essential:

• Repair damaged screens on windows and doors.
• Caulk around windows to seal gaps and small crevices where flies could enter.
• Consider adding a quick-closing magnetic screen door to high-traffic portals, such as those leading out to a deck or patio.
• Don’t leave attached garages or cellar doors open for extended periods.

2. Clear out food debris and garbage.

To make your home less hospitable to flies, remove or minimize the stuff that attracts them. First and foremost, don’t leave any food debris out on counters or tables, especially uncovered items. Fruit—especially apples—and vinegar are particularly alluring to houseflies. Also:

• Keep countertops clean of crumbs, wash dishes soon after meals rather than leaving them in the sink, and ensure that the door to the dishwasher is firmly closed.
• Be mindful of compost, garbage, and pet food. These also attract flies and can quickly become breeding grounds.
• Take all compost materials outside immediately.
• Keep garbage cans covered, and carry the trash out regularly.
• Clean or completely cover pet bowls between meals, particularly if you give your furry friends wet food.

3. Lure them with light.

Insects are attracted to light, so if you’re dealing with an infestation, here’s how to get rid of flies inside your house: On a bright, sunny day, close the door to the room where flies are present and shut the blinds and drapes, leaving just one gap that lets in light. Open that window wide to the outside. The flies should then head outside, where it’s bright.

You can also use light to lure flies in—into a trap, that is. The Safer Home Indoor Fly Trap plugs into an outlet and uses UV light to attract bugs to its sticky glue card, where they’re discreetly held until you throw out the bug-filled card.

4. Swat them.

Despite prevention tactics, flies may still find their way in. Combat flies with a good old-fashioned flyswatter or rolled-up newspaper, and the right technique. Good eyesight and sharp reflexes are a plus in the fight against flies. A housefly has almost 360-degree vision, so it’s best to approach from behind and hover just above before making a fast, decisive flick with your weapon. Flies are one of the few insects that are actively affected by colors, so use a flyswatter in a neutral tone for superior stealth.

5. Suck (or stick) them up.

Another way to outsmart flies is to vacuum them straight out of the air. Hover a few inches behind with the vacuum on to suck them in. Use this method only with vacuum cleaners that have a bag, and dispose of it immediately after foiling the infestation so flies won’t find their way back out and back into your home.

For a passive yet ever-ready fly-catching technique, hang good-quality flypaper. You can purchase flypaper online or at a local hardware store, or make your own by coating strips of kraft paper with a sticky mixture of water, sugar, and honey or syrup. Bugs are bound to bump into the paper, whether store-bought or DIY, and get stuck as they buzz about.

6. Build and bait a natural fly trap.

Employ a simple, all-natural homemade fly trap to lure and imprison unwanted insects. All it takes is a plastic container, plastic wrap, and fly bait (like sugary water, fruit, vinegar, or apple cider vinegar). Set up the fly trap in a corner to attract and confine flies, and then dispose of them when you’ve won the battle. If the DIY route isn’t your style, shop for a fly trap to catch and kill flies.

7. Cultivate houseplants that repel flies. 

Both potted plants and essential oils can be part of your anti-fly arsenal. Start an indoor herb garden that includes mint, lavender, and basil—all worthy fly fighters. Set the plants on a kitchen windowsill, and flies will be less likely to enter. Alternatively, add a few drops of lavender or eucalyptus oil in a spray bottle full of water, and then mist door and window frames frequently to keep flies at bay.

RELATED: How to Get Rid of Flies Outside 

Insecticides That Kill Flies

If the methods above fail to solve a fly infestation, you may wish to resort to insecticides. There are, however, considerations to keep in mind. Products containing permethrin are considered to be among the most effective and widely available for fly control, but permethrin is highly toxic to cats. As well, many sprays and foggers are designed only for outdoor use, so if your problem is inside the home, you’ll need to shop around for a safe and effective nontoxic product. The following are few popular options, but remember that they are safe only if used as directed, many leave an oily residue, and most kill on contact, which means that you need to be quick to spray houseflies when you see them:

• Stem plant-based bug spray
• Safer Home indoor pest control
• Raid Multi-Insect Killer

While insecticides can be helpful in getting rid of flies in the house, for peace of mind and efficiency, it’s probably best to focus on strategies for keeping flies out in the first place and eliminating the odors, food debris, and garbage that attract flies.

FAQs

The post How to Get Rid of Flies in the House appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you’re often wondering, “Why is my dishwasher not drying?” check out these possible causes of your dishwasher’s poor performance so you can get your appliance back to its hardworking, time-saving self.

1. You aren’t loading the dishwasher properly.

Overloading the dishwasher can hamper drying. To promote airflow during the drying cycle, always leave some space between dishes, without nesting or stacking them. Loading a dishwasher properly also means putting lightweight plastic items on the top rack between, not on, the tines to make them less likely to flip over and collect water. 

2. Your dishwasher cycle settings may be wrong.

Most of today’s best dishwashers use either a heating element or condensation to dry dishes. Heating elements are common on older models, particularly from American manufacturers. These dishwashers rely on a round or U-shaped electric heating element at the bottom of the tub to dry the dishes. While effective, this method uses more energy, requires a longer cycle, and can be tough on plastics (which is why they’re typically relegated to the top rack). 

For these reasons, manufacturers have moved toward condensation as the primary drying method. In this method, after the final hot-water rinse cycle, the water evaporates off the dishes and condenses on the stainless steel walls of the tub, which are cooler than the dishes. Condensation is more energy-efficient, tends to be quieter, and is easier on delicate plastic items. In fact, with a dishwasher that dries via condensation, you can put plastics in the bottom rack. But because plastic doesn’t retain heat like glass, metal, and ceramics do, water doesn’t evaporate as well from plastic items, so they generally emerge wetter from a dishwasher that uses condensation drying. 

If your dishes aren’t coming out as dry as you’d like, research whether your dishwasher has a heating element, and make sure that the “Heated Dry” option is turned on before you start a cycle. (Some models default to heated drying, while others require you to select the option.) Note that even if your dishwasher defaults to a heated dry setting, if you select a speedy setting (often called a “quick” or “express” wash), it may not include heated drying. In general, to get the best performance from your dishwasher and to make sure you’re using its most eco-friendly dishwasher features, become familiar with all its settings for both washing and drying.

3. You’re not using rinse aid, or the rinse aid is not dispensing properly.

Dishwasher rinse aids reduce the surface tension of water, causing it to run off the clean dishes instead of forming water droplets. This helps prevent spotting and streaking, and it also helps dishes dry faster, particularly in a dishwasher that uses condensation drying.

The rinse aid dispenser is usually located on the interior of the dishwasher door, next to the detergent dispenser. Periodically check the indicator on the dispenser and refill as needed. Always close the compartment securely and wipe off any liquid that has spilled.

On some dishwashers, the amount of rinse aid dispensed in each cycle can be adjusted. If your dishes emerge spotted or excessively wet, try adjusting the setting. It’s also possible that a buildup of gunk could be preventing the rinse aid from dispensing into the machine during the rinse cycle. To clean the rinse aid dispenser:

• Open the cap or lid and wipe away any debris in the dispenser.
• If possible, use a turkey baster or similar suction device to remove any rinse aid still in the dispenser reservoir.
• Set a dishwasher-safe bowl filled with 2 cups of white vinegar on the top rack of the empty dishwasher. 
• Leave the rinse aid dispenser cap off, if possible, and run the appliance on the hottest water setting to clean the dishwasher interior and help flush away debris and slimy bits of food. 
• If the dispenser is still not releasing rinse aid, you’ll need to remove it and wash it out thoroughly or replace it—both of which probably require removing the outer or inner dishwasher door panel. But if the problem is just a leaky or broken dispenser cap or lid, it’s an easy fix to buy a new one and replace it. 

4. The dishwasher’s vent may be blocked.

Many dishwashers have a vent to let steam escape. Over time, built-up gunk can prevent the vent from functioning properly, or the vent may be stuck closed or not open fully.

Depending on the model of the dishwasher, the vent could be on the side of the door, inside the door toward the top, toward the bottom, or even concealed inside the door. If the vent is easily accessible, remove the cover if you can and clean out any debris. 

If the vent is equipped with a fan to help exhaust hot air from the appliance, the fan motor may have failed. It’s not always obvious where the fan is located, so if you have reason to suspect the vent/fan assembly, check your manual for more info.

5. The heating element may be broken. 

If you’ve selected the heated dry setting, but your dishes are still wet at the end of the cycle and don’t feel warm to the touch, the heating element may be on the fritz. While you can check the heating element yourself to see if it’s working, we recommend calling in a professional if it needs replacement. To check the heating element:

• Turn off the power to the appliance by unplugging it or shutting off the electricity at the breaker. 
• Open the dishwasher door and inspect the heating element, checking for corrosion or breaks. If the element is broken, it will need to be replaced.
• If you don’t notice any obvious problems, you’ll need to test the heating element for continuity, confirming there’s a continuous electrical path. You’ll need a multimeter, also called a multitester. This useful tool costs less than $20 and is available online or at any home improvement or hardware store. (See our tested guide to the best multimeters for our top picks.)
• Remove the access panel at the bottom of the dishwasher, at floor level. You’ll need to crouch down, or even lie down, on the floor for access. Depending on the dishwasher model, you may need a Phillips or flathead screwdriver or you may just need to rotate a few fasteners by hand. (It helps to have an assistant shine a flashlight onto your work area.)
• Check inside the access area for two small metal terminals poking down from the heating element up above in the dishwasher tub. Each terminal will have a wire attached to it with a slip connector. Gently pull the connectors down and off the terminals, removing the wires.
• Set your multitester to ohms (the omega symbol, Ω) and clamp or touch the multitester’s probes to the two terminals. Typically, a dishwasher’s heating element in working condition will give a reading between 15 and 30 ohms on your multimeter, but this can vary. If the needle doesn’t move at all or moves all the way to zero, the heating element needs replacing—call an appliance repair person. If the reading is normal, you at least know the heating element isn’t causing your problem.

6. The high-limit thermostat may have malfunctioned.

The high-limit thermostat is a safety device that prevents your dishwasher’s heating element from getting too hot. If it malfunctions, however, it can shut the heating element off before the dishes are dry. To test the thermostat, you’ll need a multitester set to the lowest ohms setting.

• Unplug the dishwasher or shut off the power at the breaker.
• Remove the bottom access panel as described above.
• Look inside the access area underneath the dishwasher tub for the high-limit thermostat, a silvery disk roughly the size of a quarter toward the right side of the tub. Slip off the two wires connected to it, either unclip the thermostat or use your screwdriver to remove any screws holding it in place, and then remove the thermostat from the dishwasher.
• Touch the two probes of the multitester to the terminals on the high-limit thermostat. If the component is at room temperature, the reading should be at infinite resistance. 
• Hold the thermostat near a hot light bulb or space heater and check the reading again. The needle should now show zero. If you get other readings, your high-limit thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced. Again, this is a job best carried out by a pro.

The post 6 Reasons Why Your Dishwasher Isn’t Drying appeared first on Bob Vila.

Toilets are the main source of water use in the home, accounting for 30 percent of indoor water consumption, according to the EPA. To help cut down on all that wasted water, manufacturers have made increasingly water-efficient models over the past 40 years. Toilets installed before 1980 use 5 or more gallons per flush, and those installed between 1980 and 1994 use about 3.5 gallons per flush. Those installed after 1994 must use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush for a WaterSense label, and newer toilets are even more efficient.

Early models of low-flow toilets had a reputation for failing to always clear the bowl, which often required more than one flush, reducing the benefits of a low-flow toilet. To counter these problems, manufacturers introduced low-flush toilets with better flushing mechanisms and other design improvements. “Older designs did not get the engineering and design rigor that is used today,” says Kohler Marketing Manager Maria Evraets of Kohler, Wis. “The advancement of computers and computational fluid dynamics software, the same software used to design airplanes, allows us to ‘flush’ and optimize a toilet before we make the first one, [ensuring] the most efficient design possible,” she says. 

According to Justin Cornforth, experienced plumber and CEO at Ace Plumbing in Greenville, S.C., there are other corrections to those early low-flow designs. “Modern low-flow toilets typically have wider trapways, which allow waste to pass through smoothly without causing blockages in pipes. The trapways of today’s low-flow toilets are also fully glazed, which reduces friction and ensures easy waste removal,” says Cornforth.

If all of the inefficient toilets in homes were converted to WaterSense high-efficiency models, in a single year, Americans could save the equivalent of the amount of water that flows over Niagara Falls in 9 days—and a fair amount of cash, too.

Advantages of Low-Flow Toilets

Since the early 1990s, federal law has mandated that new household toilets use no more than 1.6 gallons of water per flush. These early low-flush toilets certainly helped save both money and water, but today’s high-efficiency toilets (HETs) use just 1.28 gallons—20 percent less—per flush. And some ultra-high-efficiency toilets use just 0.8 to 1.1 gallons per flush.

To earn the WaterSense label, toilets need only meet the 1.6-gallon maximum. According to the EPA, since the WaterSense program’s inception in 2006, WaterSense-labeled products and programs have helped Americans save 6.4 trillion gallons of water and roughly $135 billion on water and energy bills.

In addition to federal standards, several states, including California, Colorado, Georgia, and New York, now require that new toilets meet the more stringent high-efficiency standard of 1.28 gallons per flush. Some states or municipalities also offer tax incentives, rebates, and vouchers to encourage use of low-flow models. Be forewarned, though: If your area offers a rebate, read the restrictions carefully; be sure to purchase a qualifying toilet; and be prepared to gather the required documentation. 

While replacing an old water guzzler with a more efficient toilet produces the greatest water savings, even replacing a 1.6-gallon-per-flush toilet with a high-efficiency, 1.28-gallon-per-flush model can make a difference. See for yourself by trying out the WaterSense calculator, which estimates that a family of four can save about 2,400 gallons annually (enough for 58 loads of laundry) by making that switch.

Types of Low-Flow Toilets

When opting for a more efficient toilet, you have several options from which to choose:

• Single-flush low-flush toilets. A single-flush toilet uses the same amount of water for every flush, whether that’s 1.6 gallons (for a standard low-flow toilet) or 1.28 gallons (for a high-efficiency). There are even single-flush ultra-high-efficiency toilets that use just 0.8 gallons per flush. Single-flush toilets are the most common type and generally the least expensive, with prices as low as $100.
• Dual-flush high-efficiency toilets. A dual-flush toilet offers the user two options for flushing: a full flush designed for solid waste, or a low-output flush designed for liquid waste. The average water usage for dual-flush systems can be as little as 0.96 gallons per flush. Current high-efficiency dual-flush models typically offer 1.1/1.6, 0.8/1.6, or 0.8/1.28 gallons per flush and range in price from $150 to $1,000.
• Pressure-assisted toilets. Unlike the standard gravity-fed toilet, these models use pressurized air to propel water through the system with greater force and can therefore work with less water per flush—as little as 0.8 gallons. Most range in price from $200 to about $700.
• Composting toilets. Also known as biological toilets, these use little or no water and do not release waste into a sewage system or septic tank. Instead, composting toilets collect liquid and solid waste, holding it in storage bins either underneath the toilet or in a separate tank, breaking the waste down into compost. Used properly, composting toilets are sanitary and odor-free but might not be suitable for urban environments. Prices for composting toilets vary greatly, depending on capacity and style, but can range from $350 to $3,000 and up.

What to Consider When Replacing a Toilet

When opting to replace an old toilet or upgrade bathroom fixtures, it helps to consider a few pros and cons of each toilet type, along with existing plumbing features and your DIY skills (or willingness to pay a plumber to install a new toilet).

• Single-flush toilets: A low-flow single-flush toilet that uses 1.6 gallons per flush won’t save as much water (or money) as a dual-flush, high-efficiency, or ultra-high-efficiency model, but it is the most affordable option, and it’s still an improvement on the more-than-double water usage of a pre-1994 toilet. Before purchasing a new single-flush toilet, confirm whether your state requires that new toilets meet the high-efficiency standard of 1.28 gallons per flush. 
• Dual-flush toilets: Because most flushes involve just liquid waste, a dual-flush toilet will save more water than a single–flush toilet. But dual-flush toilets have a higher upfront cost than single-flush types, plus they’re more complicated to service. In addition, some users (especially guests) might find the buttons confusing or inconvenient—and you  won’t save any water if everyone simply opts for the stronger flush.
  
  If you’re somewhat handy and not yet ready to make the dual-flush plunge, you might want to install a dual-flush conversion kit, which turns a single-flush into a dual-flush toilet. Conforth advises those shopping for a dual-flush conversion kit to look for “kits that fit standard two-piece toilets, have clear installation instructions, and include high-quality components such as durable valves and seals.”
• Pressure-assisted toilets: These use less water than gravity-fed toilets, and their powerful flush tends to leave the bowl cleaner. Pressure-assisted toilets are also less likely to form condensation. But they’re more expensive and they can cost more to maintain and repair. Homeowners considering a pressure-assisted toilet should be aware of their minimum water pressure requirement for the home (typically around 25 pounds per square inch, or PSI) and their noise level. As Evraets notes, “The pressure tanks create a tremendous amount of energy and can be very loud when flushed.”
• Plumbing limitations: Low-flow toilets require that the waste pipe have a steep enough slope to drain properly. This shouldn’t be a problem; Evraets says that all low-flow toilets are designed and tested to meet the minimum code requirement.  Cornforth warns, however, “If you have a conventional toilet now and want to switch to a low-flow toilet, make sure that your existing plumbing has the proper pitch. Otherwise, it won’t be able to handle the reduced water flow, and this can lead to frequent clogs.” To find out whether your plumbing is up to the task, consult a professional plumber.

Water Conservation and Lower Utility Bills

If you decide that it’s time for a toilet upgrade, you’ll have a wealth of options. Nearly all major bathroom fixture manufacturers offer some form of high-efficiency toilet, and the EPA lists more than 5,000 models that qualify for a WaterSense label.

The water savings can be impressive. The average person flushes the toilet nearly 140,000 times over a lifetime, according to the EPA. By replacing an older, inefficient toilet with a WaterSense-certified model, a family can save as much as 13,000 gallons of water per year.

The EPA further estimates that if a family of four replaces its home’s older toilets with WaterSense-labeled models, they save an average of more than $90 per year on their water utility bills, adding up to $2,000 over a toilet’s average lifetime. Now that’s a lot of dough that doesn’t have to be flushed down the drain!

The post Low-Flow and Low-Flush Toilets: Less Water, More Savings appeared first on Bob Vila.

Whether or not you’re a serious sneaker snob, keeping your shoes clean is crucial to getting your money’s worth out of them. Follow this guide for steps on how to wash shoes in the washing machine—and what to do if your favorite pair can’t go in the washer.

Which shoes can go in the washing machine?

First things first: Determine whether the stinky shoes in question are machine-washable. Some types of shoes will survive a sudsy spin in the washer, no problem—think canvas kicks like Keds, classic Chucks, and Toms—and some will not.

Athletic shoes made from fabric (usually nylon or polyester), whether you wear them for workouts or solely for the comfort factor, are generally OK to machine-wash as well.

Dress shoes, heels, leather sandals, boots, or any footwear with embellishment like beads or buckles aren’t washer-friendly, nor are shoes with rubber or metal cleats.

Lastly, plastic shoes such as flip-flops, garden clogs, and Crocs can be machine-washed on the gentle cycle, but it’s probably easier to rinse them in the sink. Use a rag and some gentle soap, if necessary.

Step 1: Pretreat and prepare the shoes for the wash.

Shoes with scuff marks or stains should get a little personalized attention. Tackle scuff marks and grime along the sole with an eraser-style cleaning pad (a melamine sponge like the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser), and scrub stains with mild soap and a gentle brush. A nail brush, or even a toothbrush, works well for this step.

Sneakers with fabric uppers, like those made by Converse, can also be treated with stain sprays or sticks. Follow the product’s directions to remove oil, blood, ink, grass, or other common stains.

Remove any liners, insoles, orthotics, or laces. That said, shoelaces can go along for the ride, if you’d like, as can inexpensive cloth insoles. Custom orthotics, gel cushions, or any inserts that aren’t made of fabric should be cleaned by hand. Always follow the care instructions that came with the inserts, but here are some general cleaning guidelines:

• Custom orthotics: Wipe orthotics with a slightly damp cloth; do not saturate them with water. Avoid chemical cleaners, although you can use a little bit of mild dish soap. Allow the orthotics to air-dry completely. To neutralize odors, put the orthotics into a small bag, sprinkle with baby powder or baking soda, and let sit for about an hour. Remove from the bag and wipe off the powder.
• Gel cushions and foam insoles: Wash in warm, soapy water. Scrub gently, if necessary, and air-dry completely. Alternatively, wash them in a 50-50 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. For odor removal, put them in a bag, sprinkle with baby powder, and let sit. Wipe off the excess powder.

Step 2: Stash shoes and laces in a pillowcase or lingerie bag.

A mesh lingerie bag that you would use for washing bras or other delicate items is also good for laundering shoes. If you don’t have one of those, no worries—you can use an old pillowcase, preferably one with a zipper. If the pillowcase lacks a zipper, secure it with a rubber band or knot the fabric loosely.

Place the shoes and laces inside the mesh bag or pillowcase, and then toss the bag into the wash. Don’t stick your kicks in with a regular load of clothes or household laundry, but do add a couple of old towels to the drum. A few bath or beach towels will help cushion the shoes as they bounce around inside the machine, cutting down on noise. They will also help keep the washer balanced.

RELATED: The 13 Best Things You Can Buy For Your Laundry Room Under $50

Step 3: Run a delicate wash cycle.

Select the shortest possible setting, which is generally the gentle cycle. Add detergent, but use much less than you would for a full load, and be sure to choose a liquid, not powder, laundry soap.

Although you might be tempted to run a hot wash, it’s better to use cold water. Hot H2O can start to degrade the glue that holds shoes together. If your sneaks are very stinky, it’s not a bad idea to use a laundry sanitizer as well as your usual detergent. Sanitizers remove bacteria and, by extension, odors; they’re typically added during the rinse cycle, but check the instructions. To help combat smells, you can also sprinkle the insides of the shoes with baking soda the night before you wash them.

Step 4: Dry the shoes.

When the wash cycle ends, remove your formerly foul footwear from the bag or pillowcase, but don’t toss your shoes in the dryer. Because the high temps and tumbling action of the dryer can be bad news for your footwear’s glue, soles, and other materials, it’s generally recommended that shoes be air-dried.

To hasten the drying process and help your sneakers retain their shape, stuff them with balled-up newspaper, washcloths or rags, or even a few pairs of socks. Wait until the shoes are thoroughly dry before replacing the laces or insoles. It might take a few hours or even overnight, so plan ahead to avoid having to wear still-damp sneakers—never a nice feeling.

Using the dryer may not be totally out of the question, though. Several appliance manufacturers, including LG, Whirlpool, and Samsung, produce racks that fit inside the drums of certain dryer models. These racks, typically sold as optional accessories, remain stationary while the drum turns, so you can use them to dry sneakers, wool sweaters, and other items that shouldn’t be tumbled dry. Dryers that can accommodate these racks may have a Rack Dry cycle, but if not, choose a low temperature setting.

RELATED: How to Clean Smelly Shoes

How to Clean Shoes Without a Washing Machine

Plenty of shoes can’t be tossed in the washing machine, and even machine-washable shoes sometimes just need a little spiffing up, not a complete soaking. For these situations, here are some options beyond machine-washing. (Note: Always remove laces before cleaning, and don’t forget to wash the laces too.)

• Canvas and other washable sneakers: Use a soft brush or toothbrush to remove loose dirt. Mix warm water with a small amount of mild dish soap or laundry detergent. Dip a clean, soft brush into the soapy liquid and scrub the soles of the shoes, and then clean the brush and scrub the uppers. Blot dry with a microfiber cloth, and repeat until the soapy water is largely removed. As an alternative for white shoes, make a paste of 3 parts baking soda to 1 part vinegar. Using a small brush or old toothbrush, scrub the paste onto dirt and stains, letting it harden. Once dry, rub off with a clean rag or paper towel.
• Suede shoes: Brush away loose particles with a suede brush (or another soft brush), and then use a suede eraser (or a clean clear or white gum eraser) to rub out dirt and marks. For tough stains, lightly dampen a microfiber cloth with vinegar, rubbing alcohol, or a suede cleaning solution, and press it into the stain. Let dry; repeat, if necessary. To keep your shoes looking good, consider applying a suede protector.
• Leather shoes: Use a horsehair brush to clean off loose dirt, and then insert shoe trees or crumpled paper so the shoes retain their shape. Apply saddle soap, using a damp soft-bristle brush. Work up a lather, and then wipe down with a microfiber cloth. Let the shoes dry completely (at least 8 hours), and then rub in small amounts of leather conditioner, using a clean microfiber cloth and working in small circles. Let dry, and then polish up with the horsehair brush. If desired, apply tinted cream or wax polish.
• Faux leather: Wipe down with a clean microfiber towel dipped in warm, soapy water, dry with a clean towel, and let air-dry completely.

Final Thoughts

Whether they’re running shoes, canvas slip-ons, or casual cloth sneakers, a good pair of sneakers is like a good friend. You rely on them week in and week out to support you. Knowing how to clean them properly in a washing machine will not only keep them looking great but will also extend their lifespan.

While the washing machine can be a useful tool for this purpose, be cautious. Don’t machine wash shoes made of leather or suede or any shoe with a hard sole. Boots are also verboten in the washing machine. (The exception to this rule? Already beat-up athletic shoes that you still choose for chores like mowing the lawn or messing around in the muck. If you don’t care whether the leather cracks, go ahead and throw ’em in.)

The post How to Wash Shoes in a Washing Machine appeared first on Bob Vila.

“When you have moss [on the roof] and it’s retaining that moisture, if there’s any sort of crack or hole in the shingle, especially in the winter, it will shrink and expand,” which can potentially damage the shingle, explains Andrew Prchal of Gunner, a Connecticut-based firm that specializes in roofing, siding, and windows. 

As moss grows, “it can cause the bottom of the shingle to lift, which can also lead to leaking,” adds Niki O’Brien, operations manager at Custom Exteriors, based in Berthoud, Colorado. For these reasons, roofs with unchecked organic growth may experience a shorter lifespan. 

If you’re not so keen on the fairy garden look for your home, learn how to remove moss from roofs and keep it from coming back. 

Where does moss form?

Moss can grow on any roof that’s exposed to moisture and shade, but it’s most common on porous roofing materials, such as asphalt and wood shingles. While moss can grow on any type of roof, “the least likely roof to find moss on is a metal roof. Its slick surface typically sheds water fairly quickly,” O’Brien notes. 

Because moss needs moisture to grow, it tends to show up on persistently moist surfaces, such as sections of a roof that are north-facing or shaded by trees. In addition, flat or low-pitched roofs, which shed water more slowly than steeper roofs, are more likely to accumulate moisture and, as a result, moss. Not surprisingly, moss is especially common in the notoriously rainy Pacific Northwest, where roof moss removal can seem like a regional obsession. 

How to Identify Roof Moss

Moss is pretty easy to spot. Just look for fuzzy green clumps on your roof shingles. You may first notice it in cracks and crevices between shingles where moisture collects, providing a perfect place for spores to settle and grow. Once you’ve spotted it, get busy removing moss from roof areas. It’s bad for both your roof’s integrity and your home’s curb appeal.

Project Overview

Working Time: 1.5 hours, depending on extent of moss
Total Time: 2.5 hours
Skill Level: Intermediate
Estimated Cost: $40 to $450, depending on supplies on hand

Before You Begin

It’s recommended to spray a roof from the peak down so water can’t work its way under the shingles. If you can’t do this effectively from a ladder, you will need to work on the roof. Call in a pro if you’re not comfortable with heights, or with the idea of cleaning the roof yourself. 

Safety

When working on the roof, be sure to use protective gear and a safety rope or harness. Always follow the instructions for safety equipment, and use a securely attached roof anchor bracket that’s appropriate for your roof type. 

Wear shoes with traction, and be careful not to damage the roof as you walk around. (This is of particular concern with metal roofs; even small pebbles or other abrasive materials caught in your shoe tread can scratch metal surfaces.) Finally, grab a friend so you have someone to hold the ladder, hand up supplies, and get help in case of emergency.

Cleaning Solutions

Decide which type of cleaning solution is best for your roof, and avoid types that are too abrasive. “If you’re using the wrong materials or the wrong cleaning solutions,” Prchal cautions, you can cause damage.

DIY Moss Removers: You can mix up your own moss remover, although when you’re wrestling with how to get rid of moss on roof areas, it may be best to stick with products formulated specifically for use on roofs. Go-to cleaners like dish soap and laundry soap may work, but might not be as good for your roof materials or nearby plantings. Some popular DIY moss killers include:

• 8 ounces Dawn Ultra dish soap + 2 gallons of water
• Equal parts liquid chlorine bleach and water
• 1½ to 3½ cups distilled white vinegar and 2 gallons of water

Commercial Moss Removers: There are premixed and mixable roof cleaning solutions available, which makes the process a little quicker. Some popular roof cleaners include: 

• Wet & Forget, a spray-on product for removing moss, mold, and mildew stains.
• BioAdvanced Moss and Algae Killer, a spray-on product that relies on potassium soap of fatty acids as its active ingredient.
• Moss B Ware, a zinc sulfate monohydrate powder that can be applied directly to the roof, or mixed with water and sprayed on.

Roof Moss Removal in 3 Steps

Some sources suggest that the best time of the year to remove moss from roofs is early spring, when seasonal rains provide the moisture that the plant needs. But you can remove moss from the roof at any time of year. While you should apply moss-killing treatments in spring and fall when the plant is actively growing, it may be easier to brush and hose moss off the roof when it goes dormant in summer and becomes brittle. 

No matter when you do it, pick a cloudy day so the cleaning solution won’t evaporate too quickly, but also make sure there’s no rain in the forecast. 

Step 1: Remove loose moss from the roof.

After putting on safety gear, start by working from top of the roof or from a ladder. Hose off the mossy areas with water, spraying at a downward angle. Then, clear away loose moss with a long-handled soft-bristle scrub brush. Work from the top down to avoid lifting shingles, and brush gently to avoid damaging them. Work on one section at a time. 

Pro tip: Never use a pressure washer on a roof, especially not on asphalt shingles. The force of the water can strip away the protective granules, loosen the shingles, and drive water between and beneath them. 

Step 2: Apply a moss remover.

A light scrubbing probably won’t remove all of the moss, and even if it does, you may be left with unsightly stains. This is where chemicals—either commercial or DIY solutions—come in. Cleaners can damage plants and discolor other surfaces, so spread plastic sheeting below your work area, or at least hose off nearby plantings and surfaces before and after you apply the solution.

• If you use one of the DIY roof cleaners mentioned above, hose down the roof, spray the moss with the solution of your choice, wait 25 to 45 minutes, scrub the moss, and then hose the roof down again. 
• If you use a commercial solution, follow the manufacturer’s directions for application. Some liquids need to be rinsed off after application while others should be left on. Granular products are generally left on the roof so that rainwater can distribute the moss-killing chemicals down the roof’s surface. Powdered products are usually sprinkled along the roof’s ridge, from one edge of the roof to the other; some require parallel lines of powder spaced 2 to 3 feet apart.

Step 3: Take steps to prevent future moss growth.

Depending on the approach you choose, it can take weeks or months for the moss to die off. Making roof moss removal even trickier, moss can lie dormant in dry weather only to spring back when rain returns. Here are a few things you can do to make sure moss stays away:

• Make a visual check of your roof twice a year (spring and fall), remove debris regularly, and deal with moss promptly. 
• A moss problem is a moisture problem, so figure out how to keep your roof dry and increase the amount of sunlight that hits it. For instance, prune trees that are shading your roof, and keep your gutters clean so water can flow off freely. 
• Install zinc or copper roof strips just below the ridge cap on both sides of the roof, nailing the strips down every foot or so. (You can also purchase sheet metal in rolls and cut it into 2- to 4-inch strips.) How do these work? Rainwater draws tiny particles out of the metal, and these travel down the roof to kill moss and fungi. Note that these strips need to be replaced every 5 years or so, and they have less of an effect further down the roof. Also, while the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association is in favor of using them on new roofs, it advises against installation on existing roofs because of the potential for leaks down the road.
• If you live in a moss-prone region and a new roof is in your future, think about using algae-resistant roof shingles. These pricier options incorporate copper granules that can prevent algae from building up on the roof. While they target algae, not moss, they may help make the roof less hospitable to the moisture-loving plant.

When to Call a Professional for Roof Moss Removal

If you’re not comfortable walking around on your roof, if you’ve treated your roof and the moss just keeps coming back, or if there are parts of your roof that you can’t safely reach, call in the pros. They’ll have the right equipment as well as access to commercial-grade moss-control products that can clean your roof effectively. 

Expect to pay anywhere from $450 to $750 to have your roof professionally cleaned, depending on the extent of your moss problem, the size of your roof, and the types of cleaning products the job requires.

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