The right primer for your project depends on the environment you’ll be working in, the surface you’ll be painting, and your preferences for the time frame of the job and its final look. Read on to find out what makes a quality paint primer and why the below options rank as our top favorites among the best paint primers we tested.

1. BEST OVERALL: Rust-Oleum Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Water-Base Primer
2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Kilz Original Interior Primer
3. BEST ALL-PURPOSE: Kilz 2 All-Purpose Interior/Exterior Primer
4. BEST FOR METAL: Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer
5. BEST FOR GLOSSY SURFACES: Kilz Adhesion Interior/Exterior Primer
6. BEST FOR ODOR BLOCKING: Kilz Restoration Interior Primer
7. BEST FOR EXTERIOR: Kilz 3 Premium Interior/Exterior Primer
8. BEST FOR INTERIOR WALLS: Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint Interior Acrylic Latex

Product Comparison

Our Top Picks

We spent hours narrowing the paint primer market and testing the top-rated products. One or more of these recommendations for the best paint primer may suit your specific needs.

Best Overall

Rust-Oleum Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Water-Base Primer

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What We Like

• Low-VOC and low-odor formula
• Mold- and mildew-resistant
• Works on multiple surface types

What We Don’t Like

• Thin viscosity; second coat may be required for proper coverage

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water-based acrylic

Rust-Oleum is well known for its protective paints and coatings. Its Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 water-base primer is an all-purpose primer-sealer that sticks to various surfaces without sanding and works with any top coat. The brand is regarded as one of the top producers of rust-preventive paints.

The primer is low odor, low in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and provides excellent coverage on interior and exterior surfaces. It’s made from water-based acrylic and is designed to resist blistering, peeling, and mold and mildew growth. The primer is tintable and available in white or gray. It’s also available in spray-paint form.

We tested this primer on multiple surfaces, including drywall, wood, metal, and plastic. It readily stuck to all of those surfaces and provided a textured finished surface that easily held onto a top coat of paint. The primer did not completely block the water stain on drywall, but we expected that—most white primers do not. We thought the paint was thin and needed two coats on all surfaces to ensure an even, smooth top coat. Overall, we liked this primer’s versatility of use on multiple surfaces, making it our top choice.

Get the Rust-Oleum Zinsser paint primer at Amazon or Ace Hardware.

Best Bang for the Buck

Kilz Original Interior Primer

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What We Like

• Effectively blocks stains and odors
• Applies smoothly and evenly
• Lower-VOC formula

What We Don’t Like

• Strong odor

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Interior
• Recoat time: 2 hours or less
• Base material: Oil

Kilz is a trusted paint brand, especially for primers. Kilz Original interior primer is the company’s flagship primer designed to block most heavy interior stains on wood, drywall, plaster, paneling, wallpaper, masonry, brick, and painted metal. It also works on properly prepared glossy surfaces.

The primer is oil-based but can be used as a base coat for latex and oil paints. Kilz is our go-to primer for tough stains in our household. Previously, we had only used the spray-can version but found that the can version works just as well. We tested the primer on water stains on our drywall and as a base coat on various materials, including wood, brick, and metal. The primer adhered well to porous surfaces, but we did need to sand the metal before priming.

The white primer paint did a decent job blocking light-colored stains. However, in our experience with trying to hide stubborn stains on drywall, the primer works best at hiding stains when tinted gray.

Although it is available in a lower-VOC formula, it is not low VOC and the odor was strong. We recommend using a respirator or working in a well-ventilated area when using this primer. Overall, Kilz Original is a solid performer, and we highly recommend it for any ventilated interior primer application.

Get the Kilz Original paint primer at Ace Hardware.

Best All-Purpose

Kilz 2 All-Purpose Interior/Exterior Primer

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What We Like

• Minimal odor
• Mildew-resistant finish
• Easy soap-and-water cleanup
• Low-VOC formula

What We Don’t Like

• Only blocks light to medium stains

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water

Kilz 2 all-purpose interior/exterior primer is a general-purpose primer well suited for use on various DIY projects. This water-based primer has a drastically lower VOC content than the Original Kilz Primer, and it works under or over water-based or oil-based paints. It blocks light to medium stains and mild odors, and it leaves a mildew-resistant finish.

Kilz 2 all-purpose primer works well for general-purpose priming and sealing needs. In testing, it left a smooth base coat on drywall and bare wood. It did a moderate job blocking dark stains on walls, but it effectively blocked lighter stains like pencil marks, minor scuffs, and markers. We recommend using Kilz 2 for priming old walls before repainting or for any exterior surface as a base coat for exterior paint. It’s also handy to use a primer for craft painting projects.

Get the Kilz 2 paint primer at Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot. 

Best for Metal

Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer

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What We Like

• Prevents rust from growing in some areas
• Suitable for both indoor and outdoor use
• Weather- and corrosion-resistant

What We Don’t Like

• Metal surfaces should be sanded beforehand

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 24 hours
• Base material: Oil

Rust-Oleum Clean Metal primer is formulated to cover lightly rusted metals as well as bare and previously painted metals. It’s weather- and corrosion-resistant and bonds tightly to exterior/interior surfaces like wood, metal, concrete, and masonry.

This primer is designed primarily for use on metal, but it works well on other surfaces. It did a good job blocking rust stains on a metal bench we refinished, and it provided a smooth surface for a top coat. The only real drawback of this primer was that the smooth surfaces required prep work before use—smooth, hard, or glossy finishes need sanding for the primer to adhere. However, after applying onto sanded metal, it did form a durable finish, and the top coat went on beautifully.

Get the Rust-Oleum metal paint primer at Amazon, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Best for Glossy Surfaces

Kilz Adhesion Interior/Exterior Primer

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What We Like

• Bonds to glossy surfaces without sanding
• Can be used on products containing xylene or other solvents
• Easy soap-and-water cleanup after use

What We Don’t Like

• Not for wet floors or horizontal surfaces

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water

Kilz Adhesion interior/exterior primer is formulated to bond to various tough-to-paint surfaces such as PVC, vinyl, glass, tile, and glazed brick. The water-based primer offers the same stain- and odor-blocking properties as the other Kilz primers. Unlike the other primers in the Kilz line, Adhesion does not require sanding a glossy surface before primer application.

Since this primer is virtually identical in its stain and odor properties to the others in the Kilz lines, we primarily tested its ability to stick to slick surfaces. We applied the primer to plastic, metals, and glazed ceramic. We did not sand the surface before application. It did adhere to the surfaces pretty well, but we did find that applying the primer in thin, multiple layers produced better results. Although it took at least two coats, we prefer to paint two coats rather than sanding the entire surface first.

Get the Kilz Adhesion paint primer at Amazon.

Best for Odor Blocking

Kilz Restoration Interior Primer

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What We Like

• Minimal odor and low-VOC formula
• Easy soap-and-water cleanup
• Provides a smooth finish

What We Don’t Like

• Does not block or cover heavy or prominent stains

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Interior
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water

Water, mold, and rust stains are tough to cover, but odors are even harder to conceal. Smoke, pet urine, and food odors often require using an oil-based or shellac-based primer to seal them into the surface before painting. However, Kilz Restoration interior primer offers the same performance as oil-based primers but with the easy cleanup convenience of water-based paint.

Like the other primers offered by Kilz, this primer did an adequate job of covering most light to medium stains. However, Kilz Restoration shines as an odor blocker. We tested this primer drywall in a room where smokers previously resided. The primer went on smoothly and sealed in the odor. Once the top coat was applied, there was no hint of the smell. It did a moderate job concealing old water stains, but we expected that.

Since this primer is mainly formulated for odor blocking, we suggest only using this primer for that purpose. Kilz Original primer is a better stain blocker.

Get the Kilz Restoration paint primer at Amazon, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Best for Exterior

Kilz 3 Premium Interior/Exterior Primer

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What We Like

• Blocks most medium to heavy stains
• No-VOC formula
• Great in moisture-prone areas

What We Don’t Like

• Not meant for applying to glossy surfaces

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Latex

Kilz 3 Premium interior/exterior primer is formulated to minimize problems caused by color changes, minor stains, surface textures, and porosity differences. This primer offers excellent adhesion, a mildew-resistant coating, and seals interior and exterior surfaces for a uniform finish.

In testing, we found that this primer did an excellent job sealing new wood framing on our covered deck. It left an ultrasmooth finish, and the top coat went on smoothly. The primed and painted wood has been through a few rainstorms and high humidity conditions for a few weeks, and the surface still looks amazing.

As a stain blocker, it did a decent job covering up an older painted surface with minor mold and dirt discoloration. The only con we found with this primer was that it’s not made to adhere to glossy surfaces without preparation. However, it’s an excellent primer for exterior use because it sticks readily to plaster, paneling, masonry, brick, and painted metal without issue.

Get the Kilz 3 Premium paint primer at Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Best for Interior Walls

Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint Interior Acrylic Latex

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What We Like

• Thick paint goes on smoothly
• Can also be used on ceilings
• Tintable in Sherwin-Williams’ full color options
• Low-VOC formula

What We Don’t Like

• Expensive compared to similar options

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Interior
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Latex

Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint is the brand’s paint-and-primer combo available in interior and exterior formulations. The interior version is designed for one coat coverage on drywall, trim, and ceilings. SuperPaint creates a lasting finish and a surface that holds up to scrubbing.

We have used SuperPaint as our primary wall paint for years. It’s thicker than most interior paints, which allows it to cover in fewer coats than cheaper paints. The flat finish is perfect for ceilings, too. We could achieve solid coverage on walls in two coats, even over darker paint. Although we were able to cover a similar color wall in one coat in the past, we think it looks better with two coats of paint. The only con we have with this paint is that it’s expensive. However, Sherwin-Williams often offers promos that can help offset the cost.

Get the Sherwin-Williams paint primer at Sherwin-Williams.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Tested the Best Paint Primers

We tested each paint primer according to established rubrics, including how easy it was to apply, how well it adhered to various surfaces, and its stain- and odor-blocking abilities. We rated each primer based on these rubrics on a scale between 0 and 4 to determine a score. Lastly, we tested the primer’s durability and how attractive the final finish appeared on each surface.

We applied each primer to metal, masonry, drywall, and wood surfaces. The drywall surfaces included water stains, mildew, and lingering smoke odors. We applied two coats of primer to each surface and allowed it to dry for an hour, and then followed up with a flat white top coat to determine if there was any bleedthrough of stains and to judge the smoothness of the top coat.

What to Consider When Choosing a Paint Primer

When choosing a primer for your project, there are several features to consider. The best paint primer options efficiently cover multiple surfaces, block stains, and ensure an even, smooth top coat. Here are more details about important features to consider when choosing a paint primer.

Project Environment

Paint primers come in three formulas: interior/exterior, exterior, and interior.

Interior/exterior primers are suited for indoor and outdoor use, while exterior primers are designed for outdoor use only. Both contain additives that stave off UV-related fading and moisture-related mold issues; they also add flexibility to withstand frequent outdoor temperature changes, preventing the paint from peeling or cracking.

Interior primers, formulated without exterior additives, are only suitable for indoor use. Interior/exterior primer is the best bet for doing a range of painting jobs, indoors and out. Plus, choosing a primer that works inside and outside saves on the costs of buying separate interior and exterior products.

Surface

Each type of primer may adhere better to different surfaces. The following details the best primer type for common household surfaces:

• Bare wood: Apply an oil-based or latex primer to wood that has never been stained or painted to help seal the porous surface. Keep in mind that oil-based primers tend to emit more VOCs (smelly pollutants) than do latex primers.
• Drywall: Apply a latex primer to drywall, as an oil-based primer can raise the grain and make the surface look uneven.
• Stain-prone surfaces: Use a stain-blocking primer on stained wood, bare wood with high tannin content that can bleed out (e.g., cedar or redwood), interior walls with water or smoke stains, or cabinets/trim with grease stains. It will cover stains and keep them from bleeding into and discoloring top coats.
  • Choose latex stain-blocking primer if the stains are solvent-based (e.g., crayons or grease).
  • Choose an oil-based stain-blocking primer if the stain is water-based (e.g., water-based wood stain, smoke, or tannin).
• Painted wood: An oil-based primer is usually best for painted wood that shows chalking (a chalky powder on the surface as the paint binder degrades) or chipping; it will dry into a denser, smoother foundation to minimize these imperfections.
• Metal: Choose a rust-resistant oil-based primer on metals such as aluminum to avoid the formation of rust, which the water in latex primer can promote.
• Glossy surfaces: Bonding primer, formulated to stick to glossy surfaces, is a must for the slick likes of glass, plastic, or glazed tile.

Dedicated Primer vs. Paint-and-Primer in One

Self-priming paints—also known as paint-and-primer combo products—let users prime and paint a surface in a single step. But these two-in-one products are only recommended if all of the following are true:

• You’re not painting bare or stained wood.
• Your painting surface has no stains or signs of peeling.
• You’re repainting a previously painted surface in the same color or going from a lighter to a darker paint color.

Choose separate paint and primer to improve paint adhesion in the following situations:

• You’re painting bare or stained wood.
• You’re painting over a surface that has stains or is peeling.
• You’re switching from a darker to a lighter paint color.
• You want to use a paint with a different base than that of the primer. For example, use an oil-based primer with a latex paint to take advantage of the rot resistance of the oil primer and the lower VOCs and faster drying of the latex paint.
• You want to cover an old oil-based paint coat with a latex paint coat. An intervening layer of a dedicated primer is needed for optimal adhesion of the latex paint.

Tintability

Primer usually comes in white or gray. Use either color as is without tinting it or have the primer tinted to a hue that’s slightly lighter than the top coat. Tinting primer, which requires buying a primer labeled “tintable,” generally achieves a deeper, richer, and more uniform final color but is particularly recommended in the following situations:

• You’re changing the color from darker to lighter. The tinted primer reduces the number of paint coats needed to hide the darker base coat.
• For stubborn stains, like water or mildew, a tinted primer is necessary to block the stain effectively from bleeding through, especially when there is a light-color top coat.
• You’re changing from a lighter to a dramatically darker color, e.g., light blue to black. The tinted primer ensures that even if the top coat is uneven, no patches of white or gray primer will show through it.

Dry Time

Pay attention to the “dry-to-recoat” time specified on the primer packaging—an indication of when the primer is dry enough to be recoated either with another coat of primer or with paint. In general, latex primers have a shorter dry-to-recoat time of no more than 1 hour, whereas oil-based primers need 1 to 3 hours before they can be recoated.

FAQs

Meet the Tester

Debbie Wolfe is a photographer, author, and freelance writer in various niches. She has contributed hundreds of home, garden, and crafting articles and DIY tutorials for leading media outlets and retailers, including HGTV, Real Simple, Forbes Advisor, The Spruce, The Home Depot, Walmart, and Mother Earth News. She is the author of two DIY books: Do-It-Yourself Garden Projects and Crafts and Crafting with Herbs from Skyhorse Publishing. Her testing approach is straightforward and budget-minded.

Additional research provided by Manasa Reddigari.

The post 8 ​​Paint Primers That Provide a Blank Slate For Painting appeared first on Bob Vila.

A fresh coat of paint can turn back the clock on a hot-water or steam cast-iron radiator, whether or not the unit is still operational. paint even dress up a unit made of mild steel, which is steel with a small amount of carbon. (Naturally rust- and fade-resistant stainless steel or aluminum radiators, on the other hand, aren’t usually painted. Those metals are less likely to need restoration in the first place, and these radiators have a more rigid, less pliant surface that isn’t particularly receptive to sanding and painting.) As with any paint project, painting a radiator is all about proper preparation, quality materials, and good technique.

Will you paint an old iron radiator white so it matches your baseboard trim, or select a bright hue that makes the heater a focal point rather than an eyesore? Once you settle on a suitable color and follow this guide for how to paint a radiator, the unit will have a new hue in the space of a weekend. 

Note: The radiator will need to be turned off for the duration of this project, so midwinter is probably not the best time to undertake the project.

Step 1: Select primer and paint.

Though you can certainly go the can-and-paintbrush route, we find that spray paint and primer will reach the curves, nooks, and crannies of this fixture best. Use an oil-based primer and either an oil- or water-based spray paint for metal that is labeled for interior use. Depending on your radiator, look for the following attributes:

• If you are painting a radiator that is non-operational, both the primer and paint that you use should be rust resistant.
• If you are painting a radiator that still works and is used to heat the home, the primer and paint should be rust resistant and able to withstand the high temperatures that radiators generate. Rust-Oleum High Heat Spray Paint is a good option.

If you want your radiator to blend in with its surroundings, go for a shade that closely matches the color of the wall behind it or the trim beneath it; to make the radiator pop, choose a hue that contrasts with the wall.

Step 2: Turn off the radiator, and cover vents and valves.

If your radiator is non-operational, skip this step and move on to Step 3.

For an operational radiator, turn the control valve located near the base of the unit clockwise until it reaches the “off,” or fully closed position, and let the unit cool completely.

Use painter’s tape to cover the valves and vents on your unit:

• On hot-water radiators, tape off the control valve and the air bleeder valve (located near the top of the unit)
• On two-pipe steam radiators, cover the steam vent valve near the top of the unit
• On on-pipe steam radiators, cover the air vent on the side of the unit.

Paint can block vents and make valves difficult to turn, which is why you want to avoid painting them.

Step 3: Prep the work area.

Apply masking tape to the wall around the perimeter of the radiator and lay drop cloths on the floor below the unit—you’ll want to do so thoroughly to protect the surrounding areas from overspray. Open a window in the room to improve ventilation while painting, and wear gloves and a respirator.

Step 4: Sand the metal radiator.

Scrape a small, inconspicuous area on the radiator surface with a screwdriver blade and look for flaking to confirm whether or not it had been previously painted or varnished. If there’s no flaking, go over any pitting from heavy rust with coarse-grit sandpaper, such as 40- to 60-grit. Then sand all surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 80- to 120-grit) to remove light rust accumulations and achieve a smooth, paintable surface.

If you’re covering a radiator that was previously painted, first test the paint for lead with a lead paint test kit (available at home centers for $7 to $15). Paint on radiators in homes built pre-1978 are the most likely to contain lead. Caution: Never scrape, sand, or otherwise disturb the surface of a radiator coated in lead paint, as you risk releasing lead particles, which can adversely affect the central nervous and endocrine systems if inhaled or swallowed and can even be fatal with high levels of exposure. Wait for the results, then sand and/or strip away any cracking paint using one of these methods:

• If the test is negative, use a putty knife to scrape away cracked/chipping paint from any of the radiator surfaces. Then, sand the surface using the sanding technique recommended above.
• If the test is positive, have a professional refinisher remove the paint, or use an environmentally friendly paint stripper such as Citristrip to remove it. These products trap the lead in gel to keep lead particles from going airborne.

Step 5: Wipe away the dust.

Glide a tack cloth over the radiator surface to remove sanding dust. Then, wipe down the surface with a water-dampened cloth to remove remaining dirt and debris. Let the radiator air dry fully.

Tried-and-True Advice

“It’s amazing how a fresh coat of paint can improve the aesthetics of any old radiator. I find it’s best to use compressed air to remove dust after sanding. You can wipe it down but air really helps to prep the surface for paint. A shop vacuum will also assist in full removal of dust particles if needed.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 6: Spray a coat of primer.

Holding the can of primer upright and at a distance of 10 to 16 inches from the radiator, spray an even coat over all visible surfaces using a back-and-forth motion. Let the primer coat dry completely per the product instructions before you move on to paint.

Step 7: Paint the radiator.

Employing the same technique used for the primer, spray an even coat of the high-temperature metal spray paint over all visible surfaces of the radiator using a back-and-forth motion.

Let the first coat dry for 5 to 7 minutes (or according to the product instructions). Apply one or more coats to achieve the desired depth of color, allowing each coat to dry for 5 to 7 minutes before applying the next. Spraying the coats in relatively quick succession minimizes paint run-off of the previous coat. Let the final coat dry completely.

Step 8: Clean up the workspace.

Remove the painter’s tape from the wall and radiator valves, and discard the drop cloths. If the radiator is operational, turn the radiator control valve counterclockwise to the “on” or fully open position.

The post How to Paint a Radiator appeared first on Bob Vila.

Fortunately, we know a handful of effective ways to remove gum without causing harm to your carpet. Before you begin, it’s always a good idea to test your chosen technique in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it won’t harm your particular carpet’s fibers or coloring.

5 Ways to Remove Gum From Carpet

All of these methods for removing gum from carpet can be completed using simple household items and ingredients. 

1. Ice Cubes

To prevent a sticky situation from getting even stickier, give lodged-in wads of gum the cold shoulder with ice cubes. Gather ice cubes from the freezer, and then follow the following steps:

1. Place a handful of ice cubes in a Ziploc bag and press the ice onto the gum wad. Leave it in place until the gum freezes and hardens.
2. Gently pick at and pull the frozen gum from the carpet using your fingers, a scraping tool, or a butter knife.
3. Start lifting along the edges and move toward the center of the wad, taking care not to remove the carpet fibers along with the gum! (Master this technique, and in the future you can even apply it to upholstery messes and gummed-up clothes.)
4. To deal with any stubborn leftover residue, you can root it out with a few drops of methyl salicylate (such as the pain-relieving cream Bengay).
5. Scrub away any discoloration or carpet stains left in the gum’s wake with a mild carpet-cleaning detergent.
6. Rinse the area with warm water.

If this method doesn’t work quite as well as you’d like, try dabbing a small amount of rubbing alcohol onto a clean white cloth or cotton ball, then gently blot the gum residue. The alcohol will help break down the gum’s stickiness.

2. Hair Dryer

A hair dryer can be an effective way to soften gum, making it easier to remove without damaging your carpet. Here’s how to do it:

1. Set the hair dryer to a low or medium heat setting. You don’t want to overheat the carpet fibers.
2. Hold the dryer a few inches above the gum. Aim the warm air directly at the gum for about 30 seconds to soften it.
3. Once it’s softened, use a dull knife or spoon to carefully lift the gum from the carpet. Avoid pulling too hard to prevent damaging the fibers.
4. After the gum is removed, clean the area with warm soapy water to remove any remaining stickiness.

This method works best for smaller gum spots and is pretty low risk in terms of damaging the carpet.

3. WD-40 

Another household workhorse, WD-40 is also effective for dealing with gum in carpet and rugs. Chewing gum is hydrophobic, which means it can’t be dissolved by water. To break it up, dissolve it using another hydrophobic material, like WD-40. (The WD-40 technique should be a quicker fix than the ice technique, because you won’t have to wait around for the gum to harden.) Here’s what to do:

1. Spray a liberal amount of WD-40 on the chewing-gum stain. Point the spray straw as close as you can to the underside of the area, where the gum meets the carpet. You may need to use your fingers to work the WD-40 into the carpet fibers.
2. Wait 5 or 10 minutes.
3. Using a rag or small scrub brush, wipe or lightly scrub the gum in one direction.
4. Add more WD-40 as needed to remove remaining gum from the carpet. Continue wiping in the same direction.

4. Vinegar

White vinegar has so many uses around the home that it’s no surprise it can also be used to get gum out of carpet. Here’s how natural, do-everything vinegar can get chewing gum from carpet:

1. Warm ¼ cup of white vinegar in the microwave.
2. Dab a clean white cloth or towel into the vinegar, and then dab it onto the gum.
3. Use a putty knife, dull knife, or the side of a spoon to scrape away as much gum as you can.
4. Use an old toothbrush to brush away the remaining gum. (The gum remnants will gunk up the toothbrush entirely, so you’ll want to toss it after using it for this task.)

5. Peanut Butter

Peanut butter is another surprisingly effective way to loosen gum from your carpet. The oils in the peanut butter help break down the gum’s sticky texture, making it easier to lift. However, be prepared for a bit of cleanup afterward. Here’s how to do it:

1. Apply a small amount of peanut butter. Use a spoon or knife to gently spread a thin layer of peanut butter over the gum. Be careful not to push it deeper into the carpet fibers.
2. Allow the peanut butter to sit on the gum for a few minutes to soften it.
3. Use a dull knife or spoon to lift the gum from the carpet. The peanut butter should have loosened it, making it easier to remove.
4. After removing the gum, you’ll need to clean the area well. Use a dish soap and water mixture to remove the oily residue left by the peanut butter. Follow up with a clean, damp cloth to remove any remaining soap.

While this method can be effective, it does require a thorough cleaning afterward to ensure the peanut butter doesn’t leave an oily stain.

Tips for Keeping Your Carpet Clean

How to get old black gum out of carpet

Freeze it off. Place a couple of ice cubes in a plastic bag, and leave the ice on the gum until the gum is hard and brittle. Scrape off frozen gum residue with a putty knife or butter knife.  

How to get gum out of a wool carpet

The freezing tip mentioned above will also work on removing gum stuck in wool carpets. Simply freeze the gum and scrape it off with a sharp edge, without having to worry about whether a solvent will damage the wool.

How to get chewy sweets out of carpet

Begin by blotting the candy with a rag dipped in cold water, which should loosen the sticky bond. Scrape away any large bits of candy, and then apply a stain remover or carpet cleaning solution. Wait a few minutes, then carefully blot the stain remover. If the stain persists, blot it with a clean cloth dipped in white vinegar.

How to get hard stuff out of carpet

It depends on what the hard stuff is. If you know the substance is candle wax, you can either try the ice technique, or use a warm iron. To remove candle wax with an iron, lay a damp white cloth over the stain. Then, with an iron set to low heat, iron the cloth until it absorbs the wax. Repeat as needed, covering the wax with a clean area of the cloth each time.

The post How to Get Gum Out of Carpet appeared first on Bob Vila.

A water-based decorative paint developed and made popular by Annie Sloan, chalk paint is a nondamaging blend of calcium carbonate, talc, and pigments that delivers a whimsical matte white finish with chalk-white undertones. It has become the veneer of choice for DIYers looking to revive their outdated wooden furnishings, although it’s also suitable for use on masonry, drywall, metal, glass, and fabric.

Before You Begin

If it’s at all feasible, work on your paint project indoors. Chalk paint adheres best at room temperature. Protect the floor of your work space from paint splatter by laying out newspaper or a drop cloth under the piece you’re painting.

How to Apply Chalk Paint

How much chalk paint should you purchase for your project? Typically, a liter of chalk paint can cover 140 square feet, which is roughly the surface area of a small dresser. It is also possible to make your own chalk paint, though you aren’t likely to save a lot of money by doing so unless you already have latex paint at home.

Step 1: Remove hardware.

Detach any removable elements, such as cushions, shelves, drawers, hinges, knobs, and hardware, from the workpiece.

Step 2: Prepare surfaces for painting.

Preparing furniture to be painted is pretty straightforward: Chalk paint can adhere to most surfaces, so there’s no need to sand wood furniture (even if you’re working with varnished wood pieces), or prime it, before introducing the chalk paint. That said, there are some furniture finishes that will need special preparation before chalk paint is applied.

• Paint-covered, rust-covered, or high-gloss surfaces like laminates could use a light sanding with 150-grit or finer sandpaper in order to remove obstacles to adhesion.
• Untreated wood should have a coat of clear shellac applied with a cloth rag before chalk paint is applied. Cure the shellac according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This coat prevents tannins in the wood from bleeding into the paint and altering the color.

Before applying chalk paint, clean furniture and other items carefully: Using a soft cloth saturated in soapy water, wipe down the entire surface of the piece to lift dirt, debris, oil, and sanding dust. Give the surface a once-over with a clean, damp cloth, then let it dry completely. Cover any areas you don’t want to paint with painter’s tape.

Step 3: Apply the first coat of chalk paint.

Before opening the paint can, turn it upside down to loosen the contents, then shake it to ensure that the chalk paint is well mixed.

Depending on the size of the object you’re painting, you can use a brush, roller, or spray gun to apply chalk paint.

• To apply chalk paint with a brush: For a smooth, uniform finish, choose a natural-bristle paint brush with long, flexible bristles. Dip the brush into the can, and tap the handle against the lid of the can to remove excess paint. Then, apply the paint in unidirectional strokes to one section of the piece at a time until the entire surface is covered.
• To apply chalk paint with a paint roller: Pour the chalk paint into a paint tray, then load it onto a high-density foam paint roller (depending on the size of the furniture, a 4-inch mini roller may be the best option). Scrape off the excess paint on the grid of the pan. Roll a thin layer of paint in a long, unidirectional stroke, then pull it back and make one more stroke in the original direction. Repeat this process until the entire surface is coated.
• To apply chalk paint with a paint sprayer: Chalk paint is a naturally thick medium that may not flow readily from all paint sprayers. One fix for this problem is to water down the chalk paint (adding approximately 2 tablespoons of water for every cup of paint) before loading it into the gun. Or, you can load the paint as is and operate the gun at maximum pressure, preferably with a spray tip measuring at least 1.8 millimeters to enable the fluid to flow. To avoid damaging your spray gun, test this method on a small, inconspicuous area of the piece before tackling larger areas.

Allow the first coat to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I love how resilient chalk paint is when working over different surface types. Temperature is the most important variable for adhesion, so set the thermostat to 65 degrees indoors before painting. This makes a surprising difference and allows the paint to set properly. For outdoor application, choose a day with mild but warm temperatures for the same reason.

We have a habit of thoroughly prepping and cleaning surfaces for painting. Chalk paint offers an exception to the normal paint-prep rules. When painting furniture and wood surfaces especially, moderate to little prep is required. Skip the heavy sanding and jump right into the painting process.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 4: Apply a second coat of paint, if needed.

A single coat of chalk paint is sufficient for many applications. If, however, you need to cover any visual imperfections, or if you want to create a two-tone decorative finish in which the bottom layer of paint shows through around the distressed edges, you can opt to apply a second coat in the same color or a lighter shade.

Step 5: Distress the surface with medium-grit sandpaper (optional).

Examine the finish. If you want a more polished matte look, keep it as is. Otherwise, to achieve a subtly worn patina, distress the painted surface with medium-grit sandpaper, focusing on the edges or details you want to accentuate.

Step 6: Apply wax sealer.

When you’re happy with the finish, seal the paint with one or more coats of clear or tinted wax, gently massaging the wax into the painted surface with a soft wax brush. As a rule of thumb, use a 500-milliliter tin of wax for every 3 to 4 liters of paint. Although wax can dry in less than a half hour, it’s best to let it sit overnight. Total curing of the wax can take up to 3 weeks, although the furniture is ready to use as soon as the wax is dry.

Step 7: Replace hardware.

Reinstall hardware, shelving, or other elements that you you removed from the piece, and let your upcycled accent piece shine!

The post How to Use Chalk Paint appeared first on Bob Vila.

1. Hook cords to the back of your furniture.

Dangling cords disappear quickly when you anchor them to the silhouette of the nearest furniture. To do so, adhere clear cord clips like these Command Cord Clips along the back edges of your furniture. Like most of the line of renter-friendly solutions from 3M, you’ll need to press the clips in place for 30 seconds and, an hour later, you can hook in one or more cords and have them run neatly down the legs of your console. (These hooks help hide charging cords and cables at your desk really well, too!)

If you’re feeling a bit craftier, you can hide a tangle of cables behind a stand-mounted TV by incorporating built-in cord storage into the design of your TV stand. This TV table designed by Heidi from Kruse’s Workshop (and featured on Tatertots & Jello) keeps cables contained in a notch that runs down the middle leg at the back of the unit. You can recreate the stand from scratch with reclaimed wood: Follow our detailed instructions for how to use a table saw to create a recessed groove in the back leg, then run the cords for your TV and other entertainment essentials down the groove in the leg to keep them out of sight.

2. Corral cables behind the couch.

Disguise the clutter of all those charging cords with this slim sofa table from Etsy seller MittenStateWoodworks. At just 5.5 inches deep, the table tucks neatly behind any couch and features a built-in outlet with two USB ports for charging your personal electronics out of sight. You can also plug in a lamp for additional lighting and display your favorite decor on the table, too. Just be sure to keep drinks and other liquids away from the table’s electrical components.

3. Hide TV wires in plain sight.

If the cords dangling from your wall-mounted TV are distracting you from what’s on screen, conceal them with cord covers like the D-Line Cable Raceway, a favorite in our researched guide to the best cable management solutions. Plastic tracks like these mount directly to the wall on top of wires.

To install and effectively hide TV wires, measure the span of wall between the base of the screen and the floor—that’s the length of cord cover you need, and you can often cut to fit. In the case of the Cable Raceway, you’ll cut the base and top of the cord cover using a hacksaw. Then, mount the raceway base to the wall with screws according to the manufacturer’s instructions, lay the TV cords inside the channel, and snap the cover in place over the top. Cord covers are typically sold in neutral colors like white or metallic gray that can stand out if your wall is a different color. But when painted the same color as your wall (using latex-based paint), they seamlessly blend into the space.

4. Run TV wires inside the wall.

The best solution for keeping the cords of a wall-mounted TV out of sight involves hiding them behind the wall itself using recessed cable plates like the DataComm Easy Mount Cable Organizer Kit. Remove the TV from the wall (or move it aside if your TV has an adjustable arm), and then use a stud finder to find two stud-free sections of the wall: one behind where the screen would sit, and another further down the wall near an outlet. These are where you’ll make your cuts using a utility knife, fit two cable plates, and feed the TV cords in and out of the wall. Your guests may just mistake your new media setup for a wireless entertainment system.

5. Tuck cord chaos into tubing.

Can’t manage the melange of cords in your home office for PCs, monitors, phones, printers, and other devices used daily? A cable wrap like the AGPTEK 5-foot cable sleeve cover provides an easy way to consolidate all the loose cords that dangle from your desk. Simply bundle them together in your hands, and wrap the two-foot-long pieces of flexible tubing around the wires to corral them into one larger one and minimize chaos. Thanks to the wraparound tubing, you can break out and redirect wires from the group anywhere along the stretch so that they can reach exactly where they need to go.

6. Slip them into a drawer.

Making a few creative modifications to a desk drawer can do away with the eyesore of a clunky power strip parked on the floor and overflowing with cords. With a hole saw bit attached to your power drill, drill a hole into the back panel of the desk drawer located near a wall outlet. Then, feed the power strip cable through the hole and use double-sided adhesive to mount the back of the power strip itself to the same drawer panel. As you plug electronics into the power strip, create a space for each gadget to rest while it charges in the drawer, just as home blogger Jenny Steffens Hobick does in her kitchen cabinetry.

If you’d rather buy than DIY, check out the Compact In-Drawer Outlet Charging Station that attaches to the back of your desk, kitchen cabinet, or other furniture drawers.

7. Snake cords through baseboard accessories.

Eliminate the tripping hazard of a cable running the length of your home office, living room, or bedroom by outfitting existing baseboards in the room with baseboard cord channels. The self-adhesive, impact-resistant cord channels are little more than hollowed-out sections of plastic quarter round shoe molding. To mount the channels to your baseboards, peel off the adhesive backing of a channel, press the back of the channel against a baseboard, and then run an ethernet cable—or any other cord, for that matter—through the opening in the channel to simultaneously hide and protect the cables from damage. Stainable and paintable, the baseboard cord channels can be dressed to match any interior design aesthetic.

8. Stash wires and routers in “books.”

Your router or modem can appear out of place almost wherever you fit it, but especially so on your shelves. Consider bookending your home library with this creative router cover available from Etsy seller Covobox. You could also DIY a version of this by repurposing a binder that’s wide enough to fit your router and using hot glue to cover the back, front, and spine of the binder with colorful scrap fabric. Then sandwich the binder vertically between some books on an end table, desk, or shelf so that the router cables discreetly run down the length of the wall behind the furniture. Voilà! An instant classic that cuts cord clutter.

9. Follow the chair rail.

Homeowners who are thinking of decorating their walls with a chair rail have an opportunity for cleverly disguising the wire of a wall-mounted TV or other cords: Use a cord cover raceway like this corner cable hider from ZGYJM that’s designed for baseboards, but flip it 90 degrees so a flat side is on top. Then position it underneath 1-by material that runs the length of the wall. The corner cord concealer will look like part of the molding, and you can use a vertical cord chaser to run vertically to the outlet. Just make sure to paint the cord covers so they blend with the decor.

10. Add living room furniture with hidden outlets.

Instead of plugging everything into the wall, minimize the number of cords that need a wall plug with furniture that has integrated outlets and USB ports like the Lark Manor Avetis end table. A slim table at just 13.8 inches wide, the end table has a partial flip-top that conceals two standard outlets and two USB ports. You’ll still need to run its 6.5-foot-long power cord to run to an outlet, but that’s just one instead of potentially five.

11. Camouflage cords on the floor.

If you find yourself in the situation presented above, with furniture or electronics that need to be plugged into wall outlets but are nowhere near them, sometimes the easiest solution can be the best. Instead of worrying about moving electronics and furniture so wires are closer to outlets, just run the wires along the floor and cover them with a floor cord cover that looks like wood from Electriduct to blend in with your flooring. In colors from cherry to dark brown, the strips mimic wood grain, too.

12. Add wainscoting to create a channel for wires.

Beyond covering and concealing cords along the floor on inside furniture, consider giving the room a stylish upgrade that offers an easy-ish way to conceal cords and move outlets to where you actually need them. By installing wainscoting like beadboard an inch or so in front of the wall, there’s space to run conduit like this 10-foot-long PVC conduit, which can house TV cords or other wires. Make sure to cap it with chair rail and trim the bottom with baseboard for a finished look.

Bonus: The beadboard also opens up the opportunity to move outlets to where you actually want them, and there’s no need to finish drywall. Just make sure to hire an electrician if you aren’t experienced working with electricity.

The post 12 Genius Ways to Hide Every Wire in Your Home appeared first on Bob Vila.

We tested 6 of the 10 products on our list to identify the most effective solutions. The other 4, though not tested, were carefully chosen for their standout features and glowing reviews. Out of all these, our top pick is Liquid-Plumr Pro-Strength Hair Eliminator Gel, a thick gel formula that’s both budget-friendly and highly effective on tough clogs.

Whether you’re facing a slow-draining sink or a backed-up shower, this guide will help you find the best drain cleaners for the job.

1. BEST OVERALL: Liquid-Plumr Pro-Strength Hair Eliminator Gel
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2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: FlexiSnake Drain Weasel Sink Snake Cleaner
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3. BEST FOR HAIR CLOGS: Professor Amos SuperFast Drain Cleaner
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4. BEST ECO-FRIENDLY: Bio-Clean Bacteria Waste Eliminator
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5. BEST CAUSTIC: Thrift Odorless Drain Cleaner
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6. BEST FOR PREVENTION: TubShroom Revolutionary Tub Drain Protector
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7. BEST ENZYMATIC: Green Gobbler Liquid Drain Clog Dissolver
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8. BEST ACIDIC: Amazing Products Liquid Fire Drain Line Opener
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9. BEST FOR KITCHEN SINKS: Drano Max Gel Clog Remover 
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10. ALSO CONSIDER: Drano Dual-Force Foamer Clog Remover
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Our Top Picks

To help you tackle stubborn clogs, we’ve rounded up the best drain-cleaning products for a variety of needs. From powerful chemical formulas to eco-friendly enzyme-based options, these products are designed to clear buildup and restore proper drainage. Below are our top picks, including both tested favorites and highly rated alternatives.

Best Overall

Liquid-Plumr Pro-Strength Hair Eliminator Gel

See It

What We Like

• Thick gel works through any clog
• No strong odors
• Quickly cleared our toughest sink
• Affordable price

What We Don’t Like

• Entire bottle required per use

Specs 

• Type: Caustic
• Suitable for: Hair, food, grease, and soap scum clogs
• Working time: 15 minutes

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 5/5; Effectiveness 4.8/5; Value 5/5

Liquid-Plumr’s thick gel formula makes it a standout pick for clearing even the toughest clogs. Packaged in an easy-to-pour bottle, this affordable drain cleaner is designed to coat and break down blockages, whether they’re formed by hair, soap scum, or grease. While the label recommends using the entire bottle per clog—which seemed like quite a lot—we did test it on the worst drain in the house and found it highly effective, transforming a slow-draining bathroom sink into one that flowed completely clear.

Despite its powerful cleaning action, Liquid-Plumr’s formulation has no strong odors, making it more pleasant to use than many competitors. Keep in mind, though, that the gel can stain surfaces if spilled—it left a mark on a bath mat during our test. As with any caustic cleaner, avoid contact with skin or other surfaces in the bathroom. For its performance, ease of use, and budget-friendly price, Liquid-Plumr is a top choice for clearing stubborn clogs in sinks, showers, and tubs.

What our tester says: “I liked how thick this gel was—it really clung to everything clogging the drain and made short work of the buildup of hair and other debris, leaving behind a fresh new drain.”—Paul Rankin, Product Reviews tester and writer.

Get the Liquid-Plumr drain cleaner at Target.

Best Bang for the Buck

See It

What We Like

• Flexible yet strong
• Sticky end is great at catching hairs
• Ideal for poking a hole through a clog

What We Don’t Like

• Manual tool can be nasty to use

Specs 

• Type: Physical
• Suitable for: All clogs
• Working time: Variable

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 5/5; Effectiveness 4.5/5; Value 4/5

The FlexiSnake Drain Weasel is a quick, hands-on solution for clearing clogged drains. This kit includes a 360-degree rotating handle and five flexible 18-inch wands, making it a convenient and reusable choice. Each wand is tipped with a slightly thicker end featuring a strip of Velcro-like material that grabs onto debris with ease.

During our test, the Drain Weasel proved its effectiveness by pulling out a surprising amount of hair and even tangled dental floss from a bathroom sink. The flexible wands maneuver well through curved pipes, allowing the tool to reach deep into the drain. Once the clog is removed, the disposable wands make cleanup simple and sanitary.

For tackling hair and other stubborn clogs without chemicals, the FlexiSnake Drain Weasel is an affordable and practical option to keep your drains running smoothly.

Get the FlexiSnake drain cleaner at Amazon (5 wands), Lowe’s (1 wand), Ace Hardware (2 wands), The Home Depot (2 wands), or Walmart (2 wands).

Best for Hair Clogs

See It

What We Like

• Simple to use
• Clears out hair easily
• Can be left overnight for stubborn blockages

What We Don’t Like

• Pricier than similar options

Specs 

• Type: Caustic
• Suitable for: Hair, food, grease, and soap scum clogs
• Working time: 15 to 30 minutes

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 5/5; Effectiveness 4/5; Value 4/5

The Professor Amos drain cleaner is a powerful liquid solution designed to cut through tough clogs caused by hair, soap scum, or grease. Packaged in a large bottle with enough cleaner for 4 to 6 applications, it’s a reliable option for tackling multiple problem drains.

We tested it on slow-draining bathroom sinks in an ensuite and followed the instructions to remove large clogs with the Drain Weasel before pouring. The liquid flowed easily into the drains, and after flushing with hot water, the sinks drained perfectly, with no lingering residue or smell.

While this product is slightly more expensive than some alternatives, its impressive performance, especially on hair clogs, justifies the cost. For those looking for a hassle-free and effective drain cleaner, Professor Amos’ Drain Cleaner is a great pick.

Get the Professor Amos drain cleaner at Amazon or Professor Amos.

Best Eco-Friendly

See It

What We Like

• Eco-friendly formula
• 100 treatments per container
• Easy to use scooper

What We Don’t Like

• Not nearly as effective as other products
• Requires constant reapplication
• Expensive

Specs 

• Type: Enzymatic
• Suitable for: Organic waste (including hair, food, grease, and soap scum clogs)
• Working time: 6 to 8 hours

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 4/5; Effectiveness 3.3/5; Value 3/5

The Bio-Clean bacteria waste eliminator offers an eco-friendly alternative to traditional chemical drain cleaners. Using natural enzymes and bacteria, this powder breaks down clog-causing organic matter while remaining completely safe for pipes, septic tanks, and even skin. With up to 100 uses per container, it’s an economical choice for long-term drain maintenance.

However, this product requires patience. To tackle a clog, you’ll need to apply it daily for 5 days, as a single application won’t clear a blockage. Once the clog is resolved, monthly applications are recommended for prevention. While it effectively dealt with a bad-smelling bathroom sink during our test, it falls short compared to chemical cleaners that work almost instantly.

For those prioritizing sustainability over speed, Bio-Clean is a safe and easy-to-use option. Just dissolve the powder in warm water, pour it into the drain, and let it sit overnight before flushing. While it’s not ideal for immediate results, it’s a solid pick for eco-conscious maintenance.

Get the Bio-Clean drain cleaner at Amazon.

Best Caustic

See It

What We Like

• Formula works instantly
• Crystals are easy to apply
• Multiple uses per bottle
• Will cut through the toughest grime

What We Don’t Like

• Strong fumes when dissolving

Specs 

• Type: Caustic
• Suitable for: Hair, food, grease, and soap scum clogs
• Working time: 1 minute

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 4/5; Effectiveness 5/5; Value 5/5

The Thrift drain cleaner is a powerhouse solution for blasting through tough clogs in record time. This caustic cleaner comes in crystal form, which dissolves easily in hot water to create an incredibly effective drain-clearing solution. In our tests, it lived up to its claim of working in just one minute—hair clogs melted away almost instantly, and the solution visibly and audibly cleared everything in its path.

Despite being labeled as “odorless,” the cleaner does produce noticeable fumes when dissolved, so make sure the area is well-ventilated during use. Additionally, due to its highly caustic nature, the crystals and solution should never come into contact with skin or other surfaces.

While its formula demands caution, Thrift drain cleaner was by far the fastest and most effective drain cleaner in our testing, making it an excellent choice for tackling stubborn clogs quickly and efficiently. Just note that if you’re looking for a toilet unclogger liquid, it isn’t the right option, nor will it work for garbage disposal blockages or any issues with standing water, since the excess water will instantly dissolve the crystals and not allow them to work their magic. 

Get the Thrift drain cleaner at Amazon or Walmart.

Best for Prevention

See It

What We Like

• Traps hair to prevent clogs
• Versatile design fits most drains
• Lifts out and cleans easily

What We Don’t Like

• Not compatible with stand-alone showers
• Must be removed to take a bath

Specs 

• Type: Clog prevention
• Suitable for: Hair
• Working time: Instantly

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 4/5; Effectiveness 4/5; Value 5/5

The TubShroom Drain Protector is an effective and convenient solution for preventing clogs in sinks, tubs, and shower drains. Designed to catch hair and other clog-forming debris, it works by trapping material before it can flow into the drain. Simply insert the TubShroom into the drain and let it do its job.

In our testing, the TubShroom excelled at catching hair—both human and pet. Unlike some drain protectors where hair collects visibly on the surface, the TubShroom filters debris around its inner cylinder, keeping it out of sight. This design made cleanup quick and easy. After bathing a long-haired Saint Bernard, we left the TubShroom in place for hours before cleaning it, and while the inner cylinder was packed with fur, removing it was still effortless. A quick rinse was all it needed before being placed back in the drain.

The TubShroom is a simple, reusable solution to keep drains clear of clogs, and it’s especially useful for pet owners dealing with fur in the tub. Regular cleaning is essential to maintain its effectiveness, but its ease of use and reliability make it a standout choice for keeping drains clog-free.

What our tester says: “During my 2 weeks of testing the TubShroom, I found it was very effective in trapping hair—both mine and my dog’s. What’s more, the hair didn’t gather around the top of the TubShroom where it could be seen.”—Glenda Taylor, Product Reviews tester and writer.

Get the TubShroom drain cleaner at Amazon, Lowe’s, The Home Depot, Walmart, or TubShroom.

More Great Options

Here are more products we liked based on their standout features and positive user reviews. While we didn’t test these, they’re great options that could meet your needs for drain-cleaning.

Best Enzymatic

See It

What We Like

• Eco-friendly formula
• Safe for septic systems, garbage disposals, and toilets
• Odorless formula won’t leave lingering scents
• Effective, even in standing water 

What We Don’t Like

• Works less quickly than similar drain cleaner options

Specs 

• Type: Enzymatic
• Suitable for: Hair, toilet paper, cotton swabs, lint, grease, and soap scum clogs
• Working time: 15 minutes to overnight

This Green Gobbler enzymatic cleaner contains a proprietary blend of eco-friendly ingredients that gobbles up toilet paper wads, cotton swabs, hair, lint, grease, and soap scum clogs. Use it in bathroom sinks, kitchen sinks, tubs, showers, and even toilets—this biodegradable and noncorrosive drain cleaner formula is safe on all kinds of pipes, from plastic to copper. 

The dual-chambered container means no measuring required—simply pour one full chamber of the liquid into clogged sinks or tubs or two full chambers into toilets. Depending on where you’re using it, give the product from 15 minutes up to a full night of dwell time and then flush the drain with hot water to restore your pipes to pristine condition.

Get the Green Gobbler drain cleaner at Amazon (2-pack), The Home Depot, or Target.

Best Acidic

See It

What We Like

• Eco-friendly formula
• Safe for septic systems, garbage disposals, and toilets
• Odorless formula won’t leave lingering scents
• Effective, even in standing water 

What We Don’t Like

• Works less quickly than similar drain cleaner options

Specs 

• Type: Enzymatic
• Suitable for: Hair, toilet paper, cotton swabs, lint, grease, and soap scum clogs
• Working time: 15 minutes to overnight

Sulfuric acid is the key ingredient in this ultrastrength Liquid Fire acidic drain cleaner. It’s potent enough to clear sink and toilet clogs that other cleaners leave behind. Pour 1.5 to 2 cups of cleaner into a drain, wait 15 minutes, and then flush for 5 minutes with cold water. 

The manufacturer states that it won’t damage plastic and acid-resistant metal pipes (copper). It can also be used in tubs or showers, though avoid using it in pipes made of corrosion-prone metals like aluminum or galvanized steel.

Get the Amazing Products drain cleaner at Amazon or Ace Hardware.

Best for Kitchen Sinks

See It

What We Like

• Works in standing water and drains
• Safe for garbage disposals and septic systems
• Thick gel formula clings to the toughest clogs
• Multiple uses per bottle

What We Don’t Like

• Can’t use in the toilet

Specs 

• Type: Caustic
• Suitable for: Hair, food, grease, and soap scum clogs
• Working time: 15 to 30 minutes

This Drano Max caustic drain cleaner has a thick viscosity that allows the solution to stick to the interior of the drain pipe as it flows toward the clog, which helps remove any bad odors and clean the interior of the pipes. Typically, pouring just ⅕ of the bottle into the drain and allowing it to sit for about 15 to 30 minutes clears the clog. After flushing the drain with hot water, the clog should be cleared.

While this drain cleaner shouldn’t be used in toilets, it’s suitable for garbage disposals and septic systems. Follow the directions to avoid any possible accidents, such as switching on the disposal too soon, which can cause drain cleaner to spray out. This product can also be used in standing water to clear clogs and get the wastewater flowing into the septic system or to the municipal sewer system again. 

Get the Drano gel drain cleaner at Amazon, Target, Walmart, or CVS.

Also Consider

See It

What We Like

• Safe for all pipes and garbage disposals
• Foam solution fills the entire pipe 
• Also serves as a drain odor eliminator

What We Don’t Like

• Not designed for toilets or standing water
• Slow working time

Specs 

• Type: Caustic
• Suitable for: Hair, food, grease, and soap scum clogs
• Working time: 60 minutes

Instead of a liquid or a gel, this caustic formula from Drano is a foaming drain cleaner solution that expands when poured into the drain. Typically, liquids and gels run directly to the clog because they are more influenced by gravity, which means some areas are left untreated. By expanding, this drain cleaner fills the entire pipe, ensuring that every interior surface is affected by the cleaner. 

This method of application helps remove foul odors and works to dissolve hair, food, grease, and soap scum clogs. However, this method takes about 60 minutes to work. Additionally, the drain cleaner isn’t effective in standing water or toilets.

Get the Drano foamer drain cleaner at Amazon (5-pack), The Home Depot (8-pack), Target, or Menards.

Or, DIY Your Own Drain Cleaner

Making a version of the product shoppers are seeking is thrifty, low waste, and (can be) natural. Not to mention, it’s very Bob Vila! This section covers how to make a comparable DIY drain cleaner with common household ingredients. One tried-and-true formula to use is ½ cup of baking soda mixed with ½ cup of vinegar. Simply pour the mixture down the drain and let it sit for 1 hour. After the hour is up, pour a pot of boiling water down the drain. This formula may cause a slight vinegar smell after use, but it can effectively remove scum and debris clogs. 

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Chose and Tested the Best Drain Cleaners

To identify the best drain cleaners, we focused on three key factors: ease of use, effectiveness, and value. Ease of use was determined by how simple it was to apply each product, including packaging and instructions. We tested effectiveness by applying the cleaners to drains that were slow to clear or totally clogged by hair, grease, soap scum, and food debris. We evaluated products based on how quickly they worked and how effectively they cleared a variety of clogs, even in standing water.

For value, we compared each product’s performance to its price, factoring in how many uses per bottle it offered and the cost per use. Products with additional features, such as a thicker gel formula, were prioritized for their superior clinging ability. We awarded points to each cleaner depending on how well it met these criteria, and we based our final rankings on a balance of affordability and cleaning power.

Types of Drain Cleaners

The three types of liquid drain cleaners are enzymatic, caustic, and acidic, each of which is suitable for different types of pipes and clogs. Some liquid drain cleaners are also designed for use with a drain snake to help deal with the stubborn grease clogs common in kitchen sinks.

To determine the clog type, remove the drain cover (if present) and inspect the drain opening with a flashlight. Clogs near the opening can be identified as hair, paper, etc.

Tip: If the clog is deeper, make an educated guess based on the clog’s location (kitchen sinks are magnets for food and grease, bathroom sinks and tubs often collect hair and soap scum, and toilets can accumulate paper products). Professionals sometimes use a drain camera and run it through the pipe to inspect the resulting images to determine the clog type.

Enzymatic 

Enzymatic drain cleaners contain enzyme-producing bacteria like bacillus that feed on clogs. Formulated for monthly use, they’re intended not only to keep drains free as a proactive strategy to prevent clogs, but also to clear clogs caused by soft material such as hair or paper. However, they don’t do well against tougher gunk like grease or soap scum, and they can take as long as 24 hours to clear even a soft clog. 

Though they aren’t the fastest, enzymatic drain cleaners are eco-friendly and suitable for clearing septic systems. They are generally gentle formulations that are noncorrosive to newer and older plastic and metal drain pipes in sinks, shower drains, tubs, and toilets. They’re also typically free of harmful toxins and skin/eye irritants, so protective gear is usually not required.

Caustic 

Caustic drain cleaners are made with alkaline chemicals like sodium hydroxide, which convert the clog into a soaplike substance that dissolves under plain water. They’re best at removing food, grease, and soap scum from bathroom sinks, garbage disposals, showers, or tub drains—usually within 30 minutes, although most aren’t designed for use in toilets since they don’t handle paper products as well. 

Caustic cleaners are considered safe for newer (less than 20 years old) plastic or metal pipes made of stainless steel or copper. Avoid using them in plastic pipes more than 20 years old (which they can soften), in older metal pipes, or pipes of any age made of brass, aluminum chrome, or galvanized steel, as they can tarnish or corrode these. 

While caustic drain cleaners are less toxic than acidic cleaners (and usually odorless), they can burn the skin or irritate the eyes or nose with contact or inhalation, so wear a respirator, safety glasses, skin-covering clothing, and gloves made of a chemical-resistant material like butyl when handling.

Acidic 

An acidic drain cleaner is typically made of sulfuric or hydrochloric acid. These drain cleaners are powerful enough to clear heavy-duty clogs like hair, food, grease, soap scum, or paper-based clogs in 15 minutes or less. Acidic drain cleaners are generally safe for newer plastic or metal pipes (e.g., copper) in the sink, tub, shower, and toilet drains. 

Don’t use them on older plastic or metal pipes or pipes of any age made of aluminum chrome, stainless steel, or galvanized steel. They can burn skin and irritate eyes and lungs if inhaled, so using safety gear—respirator, safety glasses, skin-covering clothing, and chemical-resistant gloves—is a must.

Tips for Using Drain Cleaner

Follow these guidelines to use drain cleaners safely and effectively.

• Always read and follow the directions, adhering to specific amounts and dwell times. Never leave any type of drain cleaner inside drains for longer than the maximum dwell time. Chemical cleaners, in particular, can produce enough heat to melt pipes or crack porcelain toilet bowls if left too long.
• Use caustic or acidic cleaners only in well-ventilated rooms. Turn on exhaust fans and/or open windows to increase air circulation.
• Always stand outside of tubs or showers when pouring drain cleaner.
• With the drain stopper removed, pour the drain cleaner as slowly and steadily as possible into the clogged drain.
• If using a caustic cleaner, avoid exposing it to any natural stone surfaces surrounding a drain (such as a granite sink) to avoid etching it. For the same reason, don’t let acidic cleaners contact non-acid-resistant surfaces (like a marble shower floor or stainless steel sink). Some chemical cleaner manufacturers recommend applying a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the metal surface area around the drain to stave off discoloration or damage.
• Never mix drain cleaners with other homemade or commercial cleaners; the chemical reaction that ensues could produce toxic gas or an explosion.
• Flush any remaining cleaner with water at the temperature recommended in the manufacturer’s instructions.

FAQs 

Meet the Tester

Paul Rankin is a Scottish-born product reviewer and writer with over four years of experience in the home, garden, and cleaning sectors. Since 2020, he has contributed to reputable publications like Bob Vila, Family Handyman, and Reader’s Digest, focusing on DIY products and home improvement solutions. Whether reviewing drain cleaners or garden tools, Paul’s goal is to provide clear, actionable information that enhances the reader’s buying experience.

Additional research provided by Timothy Dale and Manasa Reddigari.

The post The Best Drain Cleaners of 2025, Tested for Effectiveness and Value appeared first on Bob Vila.

Known as divots, these dents often occur when heavy furniture compresses the delicate fibers of your carpet for an extended amount of time. They’re hardly noticeable, until you decide to rearrange the sofas or move the buffet to a different room. Fortunately, you and your carpet can decompress by trying any one of a few simple techniques that use common household materials to erase divots.

Methods for Removing Carpet Dents

If you’re wondering how to get dents out of rugs and carpet, it is possible to keep your carpet looking new with a few simple tricks. In fact, you probably already have the necessary tools. Some dents are tougher than others to remove, so give one or more of these methods a try before shelling out for carpet repair costs.

1. Ice Cubes

If you’re already on thin ice with your carpet, why not use ice cubes to melt away carpet dents? This method is relatively quick and requires very little in the way of supplies, so it may be the best place to start. Here’s how to get furniture dents out of carpet with ice cubes. 

1. Give dents the cold shoulder by placing a large ice cube (or multiple cubes, if you’re dealing with larger indentations) directly into the carpet divot.
2. Let the ice melt for at least a few hours, and up to 12 for those deeper dents. The water will engorge the nap of the carpet, bringing it back to the height of the surrounding areas.
3. Blot the excess water with a sponge.
4. Last, use a coin or spoon to lift up those downtrodden carpet fibers.

2. Vacuum 

When it comes to how to get divots out of carpet, sometimes the simplest solution is the most effective: vacuuming. Since you probably already vacuum regularly, this method requires very little extra effort.

1. Using your fingers or a spoon, gently pull the carpet fibers in the dented area to loosen them.
2. Run the vacuum back and forth over the spot as you would to clean the floor. Repeat as necessary until the fibers begin to lift upward
3. If needed, use the vacuum cleaner’s hose attachment on the dented section of carpet. The hose’s powerful suction may be more effective at targeting stubborn dents.  

3. Blow Dryer

Just as your blow dryer adds volume and body to your hair, it can do the same for your carpet, restoring its original bounce while eradicating the dents that left its fibers limp and lackluster. Here’s how to remove carpet dents using your blow dryer. 

1. Spritz the crushed area with enough water to saturate the carpet fibers.
2. Then, use the handheld appliance to blow-dry the damp area.
3. As the carpet dries, fluff up the fibers with your fingers.

4. Iron or Steamer

If you have deep indentations in your carpet, an iron with a steam setting can help you repair dents when other methods fail. The steam may relax the carpet fibers so they can be coaxed back to their original shape. It’s important to note that using an iron directly on synthetic carpet can cause the material to burn or melt, so you’ll want to use caution. 

1. Place a damp dish towel or cloth directly over the dent.
2. Set an iron on medium heat or on the steam setting, and run it over the towel for about thirty seconds to a minute (without letting the iron touch the carpet directly). You could also use a clothing steamer for this step if you’re concerned about burns.
3. Vacuum over the spot or fluff it up to make the fibers uniform and high.

How to Prevent Dents in Your Carpet

It may not be possible to prevent carpet indentations completely, but a few simple tricks can ensure that dents are not permanent or severe. Kristopher Ayoub is the general manager of Ayoub N&H, a carpet cleaning and repair company based in Kensington, MD. He recommends using furniture leg floor protectors. “Many times these are meant to protect hardwood floors from dents and scratches, but wider ones can help spread the weight of each leg so it isn’t so concentrated on a single point,” he explains.  

You can also reduce the severity of floor dents by frequently vacuuming underneath heavy furniture. Additionally, shifting the furniture by several inches about once a month will prevent severe dents from developing over time. Furniture slides can help you easily maneuver heavy pieces without damaging the carpet.  

When to Call a Professional

In many cases, you can reduce the appearance of floor dents with very little time, money, or effort. However, sometimes damage is severe enough that hiring a carpet installation company for repair or replacement is the best option. “If you’ve tried steaming the spot and brushing up the fibers, give it a few days to see if there’s any improvement,” Ayoub suggests. “If there is no improvement, it might be time for professional repair, such as patching of the area.”

Carpet doesn’t last forever, so it may be worth evaluating whether it’s time to look into replacement. If in addition to dents the carpet is looking threadbare in places, has stains, or even has a noticeable odor, it’s likely reaching the end of its lifespan. “Certain carpet fibers, such as those made from wool, are very resilient, whereas others such as polyester, may be permanently damaged if it’s been a long time,” Ayoub adds. If it is time for new flooring, you may learn how to install carpet yourself, or lean on a qualified professional near you. A professional can even help you decide on the best colors and materials, or whether to choose carpet vs. hardwood for your new flooring.

The post How to Get Dents Out of Carpet appeared first on Bob Vila.

Before you drag the mower in for repairs or invest in costly replacement parts, look for a few potential problems that you can probably fix fairly easily. “The most common reasons for a lawn mower not starting are often mechanical, especially if the mower has been sitting for a while,” says Ryan Farley, CEO of LawnStarter, an online service that connects homeowners with local lawn care providers.

Any one of the concerns below could be the culprit; check out this list and implement the right fix to your problem.

1. Clean and refill the lawn mower fuel tank.

An obvious—and often overlooked—reason your mower is not starting is that the tank is empty or contains gas that is either old or contaminated with excess moisture and dirt. “Are you using fresh fuel that’s less than 30 days old?” asks Shawn Carothers, Senior Marketing Manager at Toro, who says this is a common issue homeowners encounter.

If your gas is more than a month old, use an inexpensive oil siphon pump to carefully drain it from the tank into a gas can. Be sure to dispose of old gas correctly.

2. Clear the mower deck of debris.

The mower’s deck prevents grass clippings from showering into the air like confetti, but it also creates a place for them to collect. Grass clippings can clog the mower deck, especially while mowing a wet lawn, preventing the blade from turning. “Spray the deck, remove and clean the blades, and if necessary, scrape off grass clumps and organic matter that won’t loosen with water,” says Carothers. “Wipe the mower down to ensure it is dry.”

If the starter rope seems stuck or is difficult to pull, then it’s probably due to a clogged deck. With the mower safely turned off, tip it over onto its side and examine the underbelly. If there are large clumps of cut grass caught between the blade and deck, use a trowel to scrape these clippings free. When the deck is clean again, set the mower back on its feet and start it up.

3. Change the lawn mower air filter.

Your lawn mower’s air filter guards the carburetor and engine from debris like grass clippings and dirt. When the air filter becomes clogged or too dirty, says Carothers, it can mean the lawn mower won’t crank. To keep this from happening, replace paper filters—or clean or replace foam filters—after every 25 hours of engine use.

The process for removing the filter depends on whether you are operating a riding or walk-behind lawn mower. If a riding mower is part of your lawn care routine, turn off the engine and engage the parking brake; for a walk-behind mower, pull the spark plug wire from the plug. Then, lift the filter from its housing.

The only choice for paper filters is replacement. If you’re cleaning a foam filter, wash it in a solution of hot water and detergent to loosen grime. Allow it to dry completely, and then wipe fresh motor oil over the filter, replace it in its housing, and power up the mower—this time to the pleasant whirring of an engine in tip-top condition.

4. Check the spark plug.

Is your lawn mower still being stubborn and you’re still wondering “Why won’t my lawn mower start?” The culprit may be the spark plug, which is responsible for creating the spark that ignites the fuel in the engine. If it’s loosened, disconnected, or coated in water or carbon residue, the spark plug may be the cause of your machine’s malfunction.

• Locate the spark plug, often found on the front of the mower, disconnect the spark plug wire, revealing the plug beneath.
• Use a socket wrench to unscrew the spark plug and remove it.
• Check the electrode and insulator.
• If you see buildup, spray brake cleaner onto the plug, and let it soak for several minutes before wiping it with a clean cloth.
• Reinstall the spark plug by hand
• Then use a socket wrench for a final tightening.
• If the problem persists, consider replacing the spark plug.

5. Make sure the fuel filter is clear.

A clogged fuel filter is another possible reason a lawn mower won’t restart. When the filter is clogged, the engine can’t access the gas that makes the system go. If your mower has a fuel filter (not all do), check to make sure it’s functioning properly.

• First, remove the fuel line at the carburetor; gas should flow out.
• If gas does not flow out, confirm that the fuel shutoff valve isn’t accidentally closed.
• Remove the fuel line that’s ahead of the fuel filter inlet.
• If gas runs out freely, there’s a problem with the fuel filter.
• Consult your owner’s manual for instructions on replacing the filter and reassembling the mower.

Use a fuel stabilizer to extend the life of the gas and prevent future buildup.

6. Clear the vent in the lawn mower fuel cap.

The mower started just fine, you’ve made the first few passes, then all of a sudden the mower quits. You pull the cord a few times, but the engine just sputters and dies. What’s happening? It could have something to do with the fuel cap.

Most mowers have a vented fuel cap. This vent is intended to release pressure, allowing fuel to flow from the tank to the carburetor. Without the vent, the gas fumes inside the tank begin to build up, creating a vacuum that eventually becomes so strong that it stops the flow of fuel.

To find out if this is the problem, remove the gas cap to break the vacuum, then reattach it. The mower should start right up. But if the lawn mower won’t stay running and cuts off again after 10 minutes or so, you’ll need to get a new gas cap.

7. Inspect the safety release mechanism cable.

Your lawn mower’s reluctance to start may have nothing to do with the engine at all but rather with one of the mower’s safety features: the dead man’s control. This colorfully named safety bar must be held in place by the operator for the engine to start or run. When the bar is released, the engine stops. While this mechanism cuts down on the likelihood of horrific lawn mower accidents, it also can be the reason the mower won’t start.

The safety bar of a dead man’s control is attached to a metal cable that connects to the engine’s ignition coil. “If this cable is damaged, stuck, or improperly adjusted, it can prevent the safety interlock from disengaging when the handles are squeezed, not allowing the mower to start,” says Carothers. “Always ensure this cable has free movement and isn’t binding.”

If the cable cable is damaged or broken, you’ll need to replace it before the mower will start.

Fortunately, replacing a broken control cable is an easy job. You might be able to find a replacement cable at a home improvement center, though don’t be surprised if you have to jot down the serial number of your lawn mower and order the part from the manufacturer’s website.

8. Check to see if the flywheel brake is fully engaged.

The flywheel helps to make the engine work smoothly through inertia. “If your mower is refusing to start, or throws spark into the combustion chamber at the wrong time, it could be because of a misaligned flywheel,” says Carothers.

If the flywheel brake is fully engaged, it can make a mower’s pull cord hard to pull. Check the brake pad to see if it makes full contact with the flywheel and that there isn’t anything jamming the blade so the control lever can move freely.

If the flywheel brake’s key sheared, the mower may have run over something that got tangled in the blade. It is possible to replace a flywheel key, but it does require taking apart the mower.

9. Consider less-common reasons a lawn mower won’t start.

Carothers offers some more unusual reasons a lawn mower won’t start:

• There’s an ignition switch malfunction. The switch may be faulty or not making proper contact.
• There may be water in the fuel line. This can prevent the fuel from combusting during the starting process.
• Incorrectly adjusting the choke can lead to either too much or too little fuel mixing with air in the engine, preventing it from starting.
• Low oil levels or old oil that has broken down can lead to increased friction and ultimately may make starting more difficult.

Look out for signs that the mower needs professional repairs.

While repairing lawn mowers can be a DIY job, there are times when it is best to ask a professional to repair a lawn mower. If you’ve done all of the lawn mower maintenance recommended by the manufacturer, and gone through all of the possible ways to fix the mower from the steps above, then it may be best to call a pro. Here are a few signs that indicate when a pro’s help is a good idea.

• You see black smoke. The engine will benefit from a technician’s evaluation, as it could be cracked or something else might be worn out.
• Excessive oil or gas is used. If you’ve changed the spark plugs, and done all of the other maintenance tasks, and the mower is consuming more than its usual amount of oil or gas, consult a professional for an evaluation.
• The lawn mower is making a knocking sound. When a lawn mower starts making a knocking sound, something could be bent or out of alignment. It may be tough to figure this out on your own, so a pro could help.
• A vibrating or shaking lawn mower can be a sign of a problem beyond a DIY fix. Usually something is loose or not aligning properly.

The post 9 Fixes For When Your Lawn Mower Won’t Start appeared first on Bob Vila.

Part of the joys of the holiday season isn’t just the big day, but the preparation and anticipation leading up to it. Make an Advent calendar to help you count along to December 25. While you of course could buy one, making your very own calendar could be the start of a new tradition.

Seasonal Snaps

Treasure fond memories while counting the days till Christmas by re-creating Sarah Hearts’ photo Advent calendar. The hand-painted tree on a plywood board is filled with 25 printable cards (yes, there’s one for Christmas Day too!) that you can customize with your own photos of family, vacations, or pets.

Santa’s Special Delivery

Thanks to an array of paper “mailboxes,” this refillable wood-framed foam board from Houseful of Handmade delivers tiny toys from Santa to your kith and kin. Its sturdy construction means you’ll be able to use it for many Christmas seasons to come.

Fun With Felt

Following this tutorial from A Beautiful Mess, hang hand-stitched felt stockings from a frame made of wooden rods, yarn, and beads so little ones can reveal a daily surprise from Father Christmas. Choose colors or styles to match your home’s holiday decor.

Acts of Kindness

This Advent calendar from Alice & Lois encourages you to give back as you count down. Write 25 good deeds on slips of paper, then place each one into an envelope and hang the envelopes from twine or ribbon. Open up a new envelope every day, then get out there and do some good.

 

Up to Scratch

Friends or family members will feel like they’ve won the lottery when they get their hands on this scratch-off calendar from A Beautiful Mess. Top paper snowflakes with soap-covered circular card stock cutouts that have numbers written on them. To claim your daily prize, scratch off a circle to reveal the number, then look under the “tree” to find the corresponding gift.

Teens and Kindness in Mind

Chelsea Foy of Lovely Indeed made this Advent calendar full of positive activities when her children were little, and she decided to create one with teens and pre-teens in mind. It includes some digital kindness, like texting a silly photo to make a friend or relative smile. She aims to help teens step slightly outside their comfort zone while learning about empathy and consideration. Her post includes ideas for display, printing, and—best of all—a list to prompt activity ideas.

Go Out on a Limb

For an evergreen Advent calendar idea, follow this tutorial from The Merrythought that uses matchboxes reinforced with birch plywood and jazzed up with white paint. Suspend the little boxes from an evergreen branch hung on the wall. Inside each matchbox, place the name of a person to call or write to, or a holiday activity for everyone to enjoy, so you can make the most of this joyful season.

Positively Magnetic

As the blogger behind Something Simple demonstrates, you can make a surprisingly glammed-up gift-giving station with little more than dollar-store party favor tins outfitted with magnets and mounted on a fridge (or stand-alone magnetic board) in the shape of a tree. 

Christmas Village

Enlist the youngest members of your family to help construct this Christmas neighborhood from A Beautiful Mess with brown kraft paper or card stock. Number each little house and fill it with a tiny trinket before you tape it shut.

Hole-in-One Holiday

Inspired by the “Punch a Bunch” game on The Price Is Right, this nonstop-fun calendar from Studio DIY conceals 24 gifts behind 24 holes. It’s made of paper or plastic bowls, tissue paper, and fringed garlands. Bonus: There’s an extra goody for Christmas Day stashed beneath the giant red bow topper!

Takeout Tower

Foodies can get Christmas to go this year by making this too-clever Advent calendar from Studio DIY. Treat-filled takeout boxes in all the colors of the rainbow are stacked in rows to make the season brighter.

Up the Wall

Those fond of organizing will revel at the prospect of counting down to Christmas with this rustic timber-and-fabric Advent wall chart from The Painted Hive. Five rows of chalkboard paper pockets are filled with merry memos printed on shipping tags—perfect for hanging on the Christmas tree.

Flying Colors

This Christmas, leave Santa some eye candy rather than cookies by building this Advent village from Lia Griffith. The dainty dwellings that dangle from the mantel are made of colored paper and red-and-white baker’s twine. They’re so irresistible that you’ll want to live in one yourself.

Pocketsful of Simple Pleasures

Would you rather give your family members memorable experiences, or the latest toys or trinkets? In Rachel Denbow’s felt-paneled Advent calendar, each pocket holds a fun bonding activity like “Bake Brownies Together” or “Rent a Movie.”

In the Air

More than a pop of color, this Advent calendar created by Look What I Made promises a poppin’ good time. The wall-mounted driftwood “Christmas tree” brims with colorful numbered balloons, each bearing a loving note, holiday activity, or tasty treat that is revealed when the balloon is popped.

Simple Repurposing

Save on materials and use a sustainable backdrop by repurposing a hanging shoe organizer. Heather Castillo of Super Mom Life shows you how to make an attractive but easy Advent calendar that can hang right over a door. She tells readers how to create numbers for each pocket using a Cricut Maker. Since these pockets can hold shoes, they also can hide slightly larger gifts; just wrap them in holiday tissue paper. Plus, this calendar/organizer can serve double purpose after the holiday for ornament storage.

Bright Baubles

Take a cue from Sincerely, Sara D to spread joy throughout Advent without doling out presents every day of December. Simply string up 25 miniature holiday ornaments on a chalkboard-painted artist’s canvas labeled with handwritten numerals. Take down one ornament each day and transfer it to the Christmas tree for added sparkle.

Treats in a Tube

With the help of an old picture frame and dollar-store scrapbook paper, toilet paper tubes were artfully adapted into pillow boxes stuffed with miniature must-haves in this calendar from Smashed Peas and Carrots. It’s a great way to reuse and repurpose; besides, people have made holiday decorations from weirder things.

Decoupage Decor

This crafty counter from Mod Podge Rocks is a scene stealer in any room it occupies. Decoupaged papier-mâché boxes decorated with die-cut numerals are mounted to a merry, moss-colored canvas and filled with treats or stocking stuffers. 

Boards and Not Much More

You can count on the folks at The Home Depot to think up an Advent calendar design that requires joining a few lengths of pine boards together. Hammer 24 nails into the board so they’re still sticking out, and hang a numbered ornament from each one. Beautiful!

Celestial Cheer

In this Advent calendar from A Beautiful Mess, gold-leafed papier-mâché boxes are emblazoned with numerals, strung together into a garland, and filled with irresistible edibles and seasonal trinkets. Talk about star power!

The Tiniest of Jars

Novelty-size jam jars are transformed by Duni’s Studio into tiny capsules that contain something seasonal to help you count down the days until Christmas. What you put in the jars is entirely up to you—sweets, a small trinket, a Christmas story to share, or a special note . 

 

Great Heights

A decorative ladder gets a reboot as a sleek and slender Advent calendar. The blogger at Her Tool Belt merely installed cup hooks along the rungs. From those hang cotton muslim bags as reminders of the swiftly approaching holiday. 

Zig and Zag

A bit of twine takes a criss-cross route on an old shutter in this Advent calendar from DIY Beautify. Cards containing special treats can be clipped onto the string to help you measure your excitement until the big day.

Message in a Bottle

A maritime tradition gets a very merry update in this Advent calendar idea from The Merrythought. Roll slips of paper containing special messages, quotes, or do-good assignments into slender bottles (available from craft stores), then uncork one each day until Christmas.

Light and Bright

This lightweight banner from Lovely Indeed can be suspended from a nail in the wall to preside over a holiday vignette. The felt is bonded to the banner with iron-on adhesive to keep it secured—without the unsightly wrinkling that can be caused by poorly applied craft glue, or the time-intensive labor or stitching with embroidery floss. 

Sweet Surprise

When sugar-craving guests lift the lid of this candy-dish counter from Just a Girl, they’ll find something even sweeter than chocolate: 24 thoughtful gifts wrapped in mini matchboxes covered with decorative scrapbook paper.

Punch Out for Prizes

Give young kids a chance to use up some holiday energy with this punchout Advent calendar from Autumn Baldwin at It’s Always Autumn. Take a piece of foam core and repurpose or buy plastic party cups to arrange like a tree. Cover each opening with a paper holiday napkin or tissue paper, held on by a rubber band. Kids can punch through the paper each day of Advent. 

 

Joy Unwrapped

The elegant arrangement of glittering ornaments atop a cork-filled picture frame from A Pretty Life In The Suburbs makes for a festive decoration. On each day of Advent, simply transfer one ornament to the Christmas tree.

Shop 'Til You Drop

A collection of pretties that look like 24 tiny shopping bags from a high-end boutique, this calendar from Mama Miss can be made on a low-end budget. Simply string up tiers of miniature patterned gift boxes, each with an elegant printable numbered sticker.

Seeing Red

Christmas seems to roll around sooner when you mark Advent with this calendar from Carolyn’s Homework. It’s nothing more than a bold roll of red ribbon that unfurls to reveal one more paper numeral with each new day, along with snowflakes, stars, and rhinestones.

Cones of Plenty

String a little whimsy from your walls when you re-create this fabric Advent calendar from Cirkus. Bits of colorful fabric are sewn into cones and fitted with eyelets through which a ribbon or string is threaded. Drop a tiny gift inside each cone to give little ones something special to unwrap every day.

Oh Rats, It’s Still Not Christmas

Your resident rodents might not have touched the bait on your mousetraps, but kids won’t be able to keep their mitts off this treasure from Fynes Designs. Deactivated mousetraps serve as clipboards to secure tiny trinket-filled sachets or Christmas cards.

Precious Cargo

Foster patience in little ones—and pile on the Yuletide fun—by building this car lovers’ calendar from Studio DIY. The festive fabric counter consists of colorful, treasure-filled felt pockets and a felt truck hot glued to an off-white felt sheet that hangs from a dowel on a wall. Each day of December, tiny hands can collect the Velcro-backed gift in the corresponding pocket and stick it on the bed of the truck, then unwrap a literal truckload of gifts on Christmas Day.

Edible Excess

Follow Swoonworthy’s tutorial to build this blinged-out Christmas counter upcycled from a plain cabinet with 25 drawers. Paint the cabinet in an eye-catching hue, cover the drawers with contact paper or colored washi tape, then bedazzle them with adhesive diamantes, sequins, or ribbon, and of course, Advent numbers. Fill the drawers with chocolates or other goodies wrapped in gold tissue paper. The drawers open, shut, and empty with ease, so you can reuse the calendar next year.

Evergreen Fun

If it doesn’t feel like Christmas unless you’re opening gifts from beneath evergreen boughs, make this naturalistic calendar from Taryn Whiteaker the main attraction of Advent. Like ornaments hanging from Christmas tree branches, gift-filled miniature galvanized buckets wrapped in decoupaged drop cloth hang from faux greenery mounted to a large painted wooden board. A vinyl sign adorns the top of the calendar, or you can adorn it with repurposed or thrifted holiday decor.

Off-the-Rack Revelry

Who said Advent calendars are just for kids? Made by topping a basic mug rack with metallic baubles, faux greenery, and cotton muslin favor bags with ironed-on numerals, this farmhouse-style Christmas counter from Taryn Whiteaker is the height of sophistication. Just be sure to mount it high on the wall to keep pets and children at bay.

Better than a Tree

A space-saving, time-saving alternative to setting up a traditional tree, Homey Oh My’s tree-shaped wall-mounted Advent calendar comes together with just a wooden dowel, some string and clothespins, mini tote boxes, and tiny tree stickers. But while the calendar keeps a low profile on the wall, the boxes are big enough to stash gifts, treats, or sentimental notes. With 25 totes on the calendar, that special someone will get an extra gift on Christmas.

Hanging Loose

Create this cheery counter from A Subtle Revelry by assembling 24 printable pouches with double-sided tape. Fill the pouches with tiny treasures, and then hang them from a wall-mounted wooden dowel using strings of different lengths for an artful asymmetrical arrangement.

Refrigerator Magnets

Bring the Advent party right to the room you spend plenty of time in around the holidays: the kitchen. Colleen Pastoor at Lemon Thistle solved her calendar hanging dilemma with attractive DIY boxes stuck right to the refrigerator door in the shape of a tree. Just number and decorate favor boxes held tight with two craft magnets each.  

The post 40 DIY Advent Calendar Ideas to Help You Count Down to Christmas appeared first on Bob Vila.

Q: I have never given much thought to cleaning my cherry wood floor, but I’m starting to notice how dingy it has become. What’s the best way to clean hardwood floors? I’d love recommendations for wood floor cleaning techniques, and a good hardwood floor cleaner.

A: It’s true, regular cleaning is a must to maintain hardwood floors. Because different floor finishes have unique care requirements, the best way to clean hardwood floors will depend on the type of finish rather than the wood species (e.g., cherry, maple, or oak). If you use the wrong method or cleaner, you could damage the wood.

Read on to learn how to identify your floor’s finish and select supplies for dusting, deep cleaning, and removing stains. Using these recommended techniques for the best way to clean hardwood floors will keep yours looking great for years to come.

First, figure out what kind of finish your floor has.

There are two main types of hardwood floor finishes: surface finishes and penetrating finishes.

• Surface finishes such as urethane and polyurethane form a protective, waterproof barrier on the surface of the floor. When liquids come into contact with surface finishes, they pool rather than penetrate the wood. It’s safe to use water and water-based cleaning products on surface finishes.
• Penetrating finishes such as linseed or tung oil soak through the surface of hardwood floors and then are usually topped with a wax coat for added sheen. These finishes easily absorb water, and water can warp wood floors. Use only solvent-based cleaning products instead of water-based ones on floors with penetrating finishes.

The easiest way to check if a floor has a surface finish is to take a sharp knife blade to a small, hidden area of the floor and scrape off a tiny amount of finish. If the scraped material is clear, your floor probably has a surface finish. If scraping the floor finish smudges it, but no clear material comes away, the floor likely has a penetrating finish.

Bust dust by mopping, sweeping, or vacuuming regularly.

Dry mopping, sweeping, and/or vacuuming on a weekly basis are the best ways to rid hardwood floors of light dust, dirt, and pet hair accumulation. This routine works on floors with either surface or penetrating finishes.

The best mop for wood floors is usually one with a large, flat head affixed with a microfiber cloth pad, such as the Swiffer Sweeper. These mops have pads with tiny synthetic fibers that reach into the grooves of wood floors to pick up and hold dust without scratching the wood.

To keep costs down and lower your environmental impact, choose pads that can be removed, machine washed, and reused. Compatible on a variety of hardwood floor mop brands, a pair of reusable pads like the Old Home Kitchen Mop Pads costs less than $15.

If you prefer to sweep rather than mop, opt for a broom with synthetic fiber ends to help trap collected dust in the broom head and prevent it from resettling on the floor.

If your preferred mode of dust busting is vacuuming, use a floor-brush attachment and avoid the beater bar—its rotating brush can dent wood floors. Move your cleaning tool from one side of the floor to the other, paying extra attention to areas where adjacent floor boards meet. These nooks are hiding spots for trapped dust.

Scrape off food stains.

Remove caked-on food by carefully inserting the tip of a plastic knife under the lower edge of the debris and then gently sliding the knife upward. Rub the scraped spot with a clean cloth slightly dampened with a few drops of water, then make a second pass with a dry cloth to dab up the water.

If using this technique on a floor with a penetrating finish and a small section of the wax coat gets stripped by the knife, reapply a dollop of the hardwood floor wax to the area with a soft cloth, buffing it in to render the area shiny and spotless.

Fight oil stains with TSP.

Oil and grease stains on floors with surface or penetrating finishes easily break down when exposed to trisodium phosphate (TSP). Don protective gloves and safety glasses, and dilute 2 tablespoons of TSP in 1 gallon of warm water in a large bucket. Dip the tip of a clean cloth into the solution, then use gentle circular motions to work it into the stain. Once the TSP dissolves it, run a water-dampened cloth over the area to sop up the TSP, then quickly dry the area with a clean cloth.

Ice out wax and gum.

Dried candle wax, crayon marks, and chewing gum on floors with surface or penetrating finishes can easily be removed with ice. Fill a Ziploc freezer bag with a few ice cubes, place the chilled bag over the buildup until it becomes brittle, then scrape it off with the edge of a plastic spatula.

If the spatula removes the protective wax from a floor with a penetrating finish, use a soft cloth to reapply a solvent-based hardwood floor wax to the scraped area, then buff it into the repaired area with the cloth.

Scrub water, ink, and pet stains well.

Spots left by water, ink, or pet urine are some of the most stubborn stains. For floors with penetrating finishes, it’s best to tackle these stains with the following steps using only an appropriate hardwood floor cleaner and a scouring pad designed for a penetrating-finished floor.

1. Remove the spots from floors with penetrating finishes by lightly sanding the stain with extra-fine sandpaper.
2. Gently scrub with a coarser “00” grade steel wool wet with mineral spirits.
3. Wipe away the mineral spirits with a damp cloth, then use a dry cloth to remove the water.
4. With a soft cloth, apply a solvent-based hardwood floor wax to the scrubbed area and buff it in to restore its shine.

Deep clean the floor with a quality hardwood floor cleaner. 

The type of wood floor cleaner that’ll work best for your floors depends on the floor’s finish.

If a surface-finished hardwood floor still looks dingy or dull after dusting, deep clean it with any pH-neutral, wax-free, and petroleum-free cleaner, such as Bona PowerPlus Hardwood Floor Deep Cleaner, or a homemade solution comprising ¼ cup of dish soap and 1 gallon of warm water.

The best way to mop wood floors with a surface finish starts with saturating a sponge mop with the cleaner, wringing out the excess liquid until the mophead is damp but not dripping, and then mopping 3-foot sections of the floor at a time using circular motions to draw out dirt and grime. Then, rinse the mop in clean water, wring out the excess, and damp mop the floor again to soak up lingering cleaner. Use a soft, clean cloth like the AIDEA Microfiber Cleaning Cloths to dry the floor.

If your floor has a penetrating finish, the best way to deep clean it is to strip away the grimy old wax coat and reapply a fresh wax coat. Rub a clean cloth saturated in mineral spirits over 2-foot sections of the floor at a time, letting the mineral spirits dwell for 5 minutes on each section before wiping away with a fresh cloth dampened slightly with water. Then, dry thoroughly with a fresh, dry cloth.

Finally, apply a solvent-based hardwood floor wax, such as Trewax Paste Wax, with a soft cloth. Use the amount the manufacturer recommends. Then use the cloth or an electric polisher (buy one or rent one at a hardware store) to buff the wax in circular motions, polishing in 2-foot sections at a time.

Perform the appropriate deep-cleaning routine on a biannual basis, whether you see grimy buildup or not. It can be hard to notice gradual changes on a floor you walk on every day, but after it’s clean you may be impressed by the difference.

Final Thoughts

When looking for the best way to clean hardwood floors, first determine the type of finish on the floors. The type of finish determines the kinds of cleaners and methods that will safely help clean the floor. While a good deep cleaning can help restore the look of wood, it’s usually only necessary a few times each year. In between, regularly mopping, sweeping, and vacuuming can help maintain the finish and keep floors looking their best.

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