Q: We plan to finish the basement in my house, and there are going to be a couple of sump pumps, so we no longer need the old drain in the middle of the floor. What’s the best way to level a concrete floor?

A: There is no one way to level a concrete floor. Of all the methods available to do-it-yourselfers, which should you employ? That depends on how level you want to make the concrete. And that question, in turn, hinges on a related but different question: What type of flooring do you plan to install in your basement once the floor is level?

Leveling a concrete floor for carpeting

If you envision carpeting or another type of floor that forgives minor variations in subfloor grade, such as engineered wood or click-and-lock vinyl, then you can probably opt for the least labor-intensive method for leveling a floor.

Here, a concrete grinder would do the bulk of the work. (You can rent a concrete grinder from your local home improvement center.) You’d use it to grind down the most prominent ridges in the floor.

To finish the job, you would then mix a batch of concrete and use it to fill in any dips or depressions.

Tried-and-True Advice

“While floor leveler is an easy way to level floors, especially if you’re planning to lay ceramic tile, it can be a challenge to keep it out of places you don’t want it to go, especially if you’re working in a bathroom where there are plumbing fixtures coming through the floor.

To keep leveler from flowing into toilet holes and floor vents, create a cardboard barrier around these holes by cutting pieces out of an old cardboard box. Shape the cardboard around the toilet flange and any floor vents and caulk or tape them into position. When you pour the floor leveler, it will flow around them instead of going down the holes.”

—Tony Carrick, Contributing Writer

Leveling a concrete floor for tile

If you want to install vinyl tile or ceramic tile, things get a bit trickier. For a successful installation, the concrete floor beneath the tile needs to be more or less perfectly level and smooth. That’s true for compact tiles and even more critical for larger ones, including the popular 1-by-2-foot size.

With small tiles, the maximum differential between the lowest and highest point on the floor is 1/4 inch per 10 feet; with larger tiles, the acceptable differential is a mere 1/8 inch per 10 feet.

To achieve such flatness, use a self-leveling compound, such as Rapid Set Concrete Leveler Self-Leveling Underlayment. These products come in powdered form and are mixed with water and a fortifying agent. You end up with a thin liquid that when poured from a bucket flows across the existing uneven concrete. Gravity will bring the liquid to a level, but you can help the process along with a broom or trowel.

Mixing and applying self-leveling compound

Closely follow the manufacturer’s instructions, because every product differs slightly. Generally speaking, no matter which compound you choose, you’ll need to take prepare the basement beforehand:

• It’s important to remove any flaking paint or loose adhesive from the floor to ensure that the compound will grip to the concrete.
• So you don’t need an excessive quantity of compound, it’s a good idea to grind down any spots on the floor that are especially high.
• Floor drains must be capped and sealed around the seams.

Pro tip: Wear cleats or rubber boots in case you need to walk across the compound while it’s still wet.

Once the self-leveling compound has set, you can install your chosen flooring. Another option is to eschew a finished floor, and opt instead to stain, paint, or polish the compound that now forms the top layer of your concrete basement floor slab.

The post How to Level a Concrete Floor appeared first on Bob Vila.

Linoleum is a classic and resilient material, often found in high-traffic spaces like kitchens, bathrooms, and hallways. Because the bond between linoleum and its adhesive actually strengthens over time, you’ll need a few special tricks up your sleeve—and a good measure of patience—when you’re ready to rip out outdated linoleum flooring. If you’re thinking about updating your space and wondering how to remove linoleum flooring, follow these steps.

Before You Begin 

While the terms are often used interchangeably (even by flooring salespeople), linoleum and vinyl flooring are not the same thing, and they do not behave the same way during removal. Before removing any flooring, your first step is to confirm that your flooring is, indeed, linoleum. Removing vinyl flooring is a different process altogether.

Though linoleum is made of natural materials, if your linoleum flooring was installed before 1980, there’s a good chance that it contains asbestos in its backing paper. When asbestos is disturbed, it can release carcinogenic fibers into the air.

Before pulling up linoleum flooring, use a home kit or hire a pro to test it for asbestos, and hire a qualified contractor to remove it if you find any. Among other requirements, removing asbestos requires wearing safety gear and disposal into approved disposal bags. We advise that asbestos removal be done only by professionals; some municipalities even prohibit homeowners from removing the material themselves.

After confirming the linoleum does not contain asbestos, follow these steps to learn how to remove old linoleum flooring.

How to Pull Up Linoleum Flooring

Step 1: Score the flooring into 6- to 12-inch strips.

Working in small sections with a utility knife, score the flooring into strips about 6 to 12 inches wide. If your linoleum features a tile pattern, you can use the outlines of the tiles as general guides to show where to score. Proceed carefully and don’t cut all the way through the material to avoid damage to the floor underneath, particularly if it’s hardwood that will become the new finished floor.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I find that a hair dryer or heat gun really helps to soften glue while releasing the linoleum from the floor. It helps to have an extra person [to pull up flooring],  but you can complete the job solo while scoring the flooring to remove in small sections.

Take your time and use a scraper to remove glue while it’s soft. The glue is often more difficult [to remove] than the flooring itself, and it will require some cleaning time even after the flooring is cleared.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 2: Remove the top layer of flooring material.

To fully remove linoleum, you’ll need to tackle both of its layers: The top is a layer of flooring material that should come off fairly easily, and the bottom is a paper backing with adhesive. Removing the latter can be a challenge.

Remove the entire top layer of linoleum first before going back later to pull up any remaining paper backing or adhesive. Start by working your scraper or the edge of your oscillating multi-tool underneath one of your score marks. Then, push forward to bring up the top of the linoleum. Keep working in small sections until you have removed the entire first layer.

Step 3: Remove the underlying paper backing and/or adhesive.

To remove any remaining backing, apply heat to the floor in small sections using a wallpaper steamer (a heat gun or even a hair dryer set on high can also work in a pinch). Soften a small section with your chosen heat source, and scrape up the adhesive, working at a 45-degree angle and being careful not to gouge the subfloor as you work. Move section by section until all the backing and adhesive has been removed.

If you come across particularly stubborn spots, apply some isopropyl alcohol or paint thinner to the area and allow the solvent to sit according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Proceed to scrape away the remainder of the adhesive, again working at a 45-degree angle.

Step 4: Dispose of the old linoleum properly.

Linoleum is made of natural materials. Unless the vintage linoleum flooring contains asbestos, there is no need to take special steps to dispose of it. While it can be bagged and picked up by the regular trash pickup, there are more sustainable alternatives.

Many areas have local recycling centers that will take linoleum. There also are some composting centers around the country that accept linoleum—or you can add asbestos-free linoleum to your backyard composting bin.

Final Thoughts 

Updating old flooring like linoleum can have a huge impact on the home’s style. While removing linoleum flooring is a DIY project, it’s best handled by a professional if it contains asbestos. If the floor is asbestos-free, remember that the removal process is a marathon, not a sprint. With patience and the right tools, you can rid your rooms of linoleum and lay the groundwork for a new floor, and a whole new look.

FAQs

The post How to Remove Linoleum Flooring appeared first on Bob Vila.

Part-time workshop, storage center for outdoor equipment, shelter for the family cars—the garage is a do-it-all space. Given all of the foot traffic (not to mention mess) that happens here, that space deserves as much attention as any other room in the home. Fortunately, one easy update can both refresh and preserve your multipurpose zone: painting the floor.

Good for more than just coloring your concrete, epoxy paint can make the surface easier to clean and act as a shield against grease and oil stains, both of which are common garage spills. The key to an expert application? Hold out for mild weather—like the crisp and dry temperatures that arrive in the fall—before getting to work on this weekend project. Then, follow these steps for how to paint a garage floor carefully and you’ll be rolling over and walking on glassy floors in no time.

How to Paint a Garage Floor

Step 1: Ensure that the garage is well ventilated.

Make sure your garage is well ventilated since you will be working with epoxy paint and bleach, both of which have strong fumes. Open a window or your garage door to ensure that air is circulating through the space. Next, pull on the proper protective gear: rubber gloves, dust mask, safety goggles, as well as a set of clothes you don’t mind splattering paint on.

Step 2: Clear the floor of dust and dirt.

Sweep the floor, and wash away all stains using a mixture of bleach and water so that it’s completely clean and clear of dust and dirt before you start painting. (Follow the product instructions to get the ratio of bleach to water exactly right.) If you encounter any stains that are especially stubborn, switch from a standard scrub brush to one with metal bristles to work them out.

When you’re done, rinse the entire area with clean water. Pro tip: Using a pressure washer may make this part of the job easier.

Step 3: Fill in any imperfections in the concrete floor.

If you notice any cracks in the floor, you’ll want to fill them in before painting over the full surface, otherwise they would leave noticeable dents in your renewed floor. Use a concrete filler to take care of smaller cracks and a concrete patch for larger ones. Be sure the cracks are completely clean and dry before applying the compound.

Step 4: Apply concrete etcher to the floor.

After everything has dried, both the bleach solution and any filler you may have used, check to see if you’ll need to etch the floor’s surface. (Etching is a process that will help the paint absorb better.) To test the floor, sprinkle a few drops of water onto the floor. If it absorbs quickly, you can move onto the next step; if the droplets don’t absorb quickly, your best bet is to apply a concrete etcher to the surface.

Concrete etchers can be purchased from hardware and home improvement stores. Following the package’s instructions, dilute the concrete etcher with water and mix it in a plastic bucket. Apply it to the entire floor using a stiff-bristled broom to move it around. Let it stand as long as the product requires, scrub with the broom, then rinse and mop up the extra water. In the end, your floor will have a texture similar to that of a medium-grit sandpaper. allow the floor to dry overnight before you begin painting.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When I painted my garage floor, I found that putting painter’s tape along the edges of the floor where it meets the walls helped me achieve a crisp, professional finish.

I also used a small foam brush to carefully paint along the edges before rolling the epoxy paint onto the larger areas. This helped prevent the roller from accidentally splattering paint all over the walls and saved me from doing touch-ups later. I kept a damp rag nearby to quickly clean up any accidental smudges while the paint was still wet.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Step 5: Prime the floor.

Next, just as you would on walls or furniture, apply a primer coat of paint to your dry garage floor. To take the back-breaking bending out of the application process, though, swap a standard paintbrush or roller for a long-handled paint roller instead.

Let it dry for six to eight hours before moving on to the topcoat.

Step 6: Apply two coats of epoxy.

Mix the epoxy paint well, and apply the first layer using a nylon brush and a water-resistant roller cover. Give that first coat 24 hours to dry before applying the second one.

Then, wait at least five days before walking (or driving) on the floor’s surface. A week later, when you’re rolling your car over the new garage floor, you’re sure to agree that this is one refresh well worth the wait.

The post How to Paint a Garage Floor appeared first on Bob Vila.

Like traditional carpet, carpet tiles offer a comfortable, padded feel underfoot. But unlike conventional carpet, they’re DIY-friendly and low maintenance. If one tile becomes stained or damaged, it can be replaced without needing to replace all of the carpet. Plus, carpet tiles are often less than half the price of traditional carpeting. 

After reviewing more than 30 popular carpet tile options, our favorite is the Smart Squares in A Snap 18” x 18” Soft Carpet Tile. It comes with attached padding, provides a seamless appearance, and is available in six colors. Plus, it’s peel-and-stick, offering easy installation even for novice DIYers.

We also spoke to an experienced interior designer to learn key tips for utilizing carpet tiles in the home. Read ahead for shopping considerations and a curated list of some of the best carpet tiles for your flooring needs.

1. BEST OVERALL: Smart Squares in A Snap 18” x 18” Soft Carpet Tile
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2. RUNNER-UP: 4urFloor Assorted Carpet Tile 24″ x 24″
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3. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: YWSHUF Self Adhesive Carpet Tile, Easy to Peel 
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4. BEST FOR PLAYROOM: We Sell Mats Thick Interlocking Foam Carpet Tiles
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5. BEST FOR LIVING ROOM: Mohawk Basics 24” x 24” Carpet Tile
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6. BEST FOR BASEMENT: Achim Home Furnishings Nexus Carpet Tile
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7. BEST FOR PETS: Serenity Home Peel and Stick 12×12 Carpet Tiles
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Our Top Picks

To make the search for carpet tiles easier, here is a list of top picks based on different room and lifestyle needs. While the best carpet tiles for any specific room will vary and depend on budget, design, resilience, and stain resistance, any one of the following carpet tile options can be an optimal choice in most homes.

Best Overall

Smart Squares in A Snap 18” x 18” Soft Carpet Tile

See It

What We Like

• Offers a seamless appearance
• Available in 6 neutral colors
• DIY-friendly peel-and-stick installation
• Padded for a comfortable feel

What We Don’t Like

• Some user complaints about the adhesive quality

Specs 

• Size: 18-inch by 18-inch
• Installation: Peel and stick
• Colors: 6
• Material: Polyester

These 18-inch square carpet tiles with padding from Smart Squares can add both comfort and character to a living room, bedroom, or another space in a home. Each carpet tile offers a plush feel crafted using 100 percent PureColor Solution Dyed BCF Polyester. Homeowners and guests will also appreciate the attached 6-pound high-density polyurethane memory cushion. The memory foam offers the right amount of padding to keep individuals comfortable and eliminates the need for any additional carpet padding.

We appreciate that these professional-looking carpet squares offer simple installation that home DIYers can manage with the peel-and-stick design. Plus, with the special technology utilized by the manufacturer when cutting the tiles, guests won’t be able to tell these cushioned carpet tiles apart from wall-to-wall carpet. The PureColor fiber system used to craft these tiles makes them resistant to stains and fading.

Get the Smart Squares carpet tiles at Amazon. 

Runner-up

4urFloor Assorted Carpet Tile 24" x 24"

See It

What We Like

• Comes preinstalled with aggressive double-sided tape
• Stain-resistant carpet tiles
• Random assortment allows creative freedom

What We Don’t Like

• Can’t choose color preferences

Specs 

• Size: 24-inch by 24-inch
• Installation: Peel and stick (double-sided tape)
• Colors: Random, assorted
• Material: Nylon and propylene

No need to spend a lot of money to take advantage of the versatility that comes with carpet tiles. The affordably priced 4urFloor Assorted Carpet Tiles feature peel-and-stick installation, and they come in a variety of colors for creating a whimsical or an eclectic look. The buyer will receive 24 carpet squares per order, and each square measures 2-feet by 2-feet. 

The tiles are randomly selected from an assortment of colors and textures so the user can mix and match the tiles to create a unique flooring look. Made from a variety of materials, each tile is simple to install and holds firmly in place. The variety of colors, patterns, and textures makes the 4urFloor carpet tiles suitable for basements, bedrooms, and playrooms.

Get the 4urFloor carpet tiles at Amazon, The Home Depot (12-pack), Wayfair (12-pack), or Bed Bath & Beyond (12-pack).

Best Bang for the Buck

YWSHUF Self Adhesive Carpet Tile, Easy to Peel

See It

What We Like

• Available in different colors and patterns
• Easy to install
• Attractive price point

What We Don’t Like

• No attached padding
• Some complaints about inconsistent coloring

Specs 

• Size: 12-inch by 12-inch
• Installation: Peel and stick
• Colors: 8
• Material: Polyester

These peel-and-stick carpet tiles from YWSHUF cost a fraction of the price of many other options. Each box includes a dozen 12-by-12 easy-to-install tiles that are suitable for use in bedrooms, living rooms, offices, basements, or even garages. 

Choose from eight different color options based on the decor in the space, or mix and match to create fun patterns and designs. These tiles come in blue, black, gray, beige, dark gray, burgundy and gray-white. Each tile has a ribbed texture to add some dimension to the room. Regular vacuuming and spot cleaning will help these carpet tiles continue to look their best and extend their lifespan.

Get the YWSHUF carpet tiles at Amazon.

Best for Playroom

We Sell Mats Thick Interlocking Foam Carpet Tiles

See It

What We Like

• Bottom layer features anti-fatigue foam
• Works over most hard, flat indoor surfaces
• Each tile comes with 2 detachable borders
• Easy-to-install interlocking design

What We Don’t Like

• Not recommended for installation over carpet
• Furniture will leave indents in the foam

Specs 

• Size: 24-inch by 24-inch
• Installation: Interlocking
• Colors: 6
• Material: Carpet topped EVA foam

For easy installation and a bit of cushion, consider We Sell Mats Interlocking Foam Carpet Tiles that feature foam backing. The We Sell Mats tiles do not require glue, and they are not peel-and-stick tiles. Instead, they feature interlocking edges on all sides that fit together like puzzle pieces to form a layer of carpet that is easy to remove if necessary. 

Each 2-by-2-foot tile comes with two straight and two interlocking borders, and tiles are available in sets of six per carton. The straight borders allow the user to create a clean line around the carpet’s edge, but they can be altered to install the tiles in the center of the floor. We also like that the tiles are waterproof and stain resistant, and they’re durable enough to resist punctures from spiked high heels and other sharp items. They come in a wide variety of colors and are easy to disassemble and remove.

Get the We Sell Mats carpet tiles at Amazon, Walmart, Wayfair (25-pack), or We Sell Mats.

Best for Living Room

Mohawk Basics 24” x 24” Carpet Tile

See It

What We Like

• Available in a wide range of colors and patterns
• Features EnviroStrand PET carpet fibers
• Soil and stain-resistant

What We Don’t Like

• Must glue down or purchase FlexLok adhesive tabs

Specs 

• Size: 24-inch by 24-inch
• Installation: Glue-down or via FlexLok floating floor tabs (sold separately)
• Colors: 22
• Material: Polyethylene Terephthalate

Give your living room or bedroom a makeover with these 24-inch carpet tiles from Mohawk. Available in a variety of colors and patterns, these EnviroStrand PET carpet tiles are stain—and soil-resistant, making them a good choice for high-traffic areas. Each case includes 24 tiles covering 96 square feet of floor.

The Mohawk carpet tiles do not have a peel-and-stick backing but rely on a glue-down application or FlexLok tabs (sold separately). If you don’t want the tiles glued to your floor, the FlexLok tabs, a type of one-sided carpet tape, allow you to attach the tiles together for a floating floor installation.

Get the Mohawk carpet tiles at Amazon, The Home Depot, Walmart, or Wayfair.

Best for Basement

Achim Home Furnishings Nexus Carpet Tile

See It

What We Like

• Features a ribbed texture
• DIY friendly installation
• Ideal for all indoor spaces

What We Don’t Like

• Some users complaints regarding quality

Specs 

• Size: 12-inch by 12-inch
• Installation: Peel and stick
• Colors: 4
• Material: Unspecified

Achim Home Furnishings carpet tiles for basement and home flooring offer an easy way to spruce up any room. These carpet tiles can be applied to any flat, dry surface and are also resistant to staining and fading. Their construction means they’ll also offer durability to withstand heavy traffic.

Each carpet tile is a 12-inch square, and 12 tiles are included in each box. These tiles offer a ribbed texture for a fashionable look. The self stick carpet tile design means most users can easily install these on their own to cover the entire floor or to create a carpet tile rug.

Get the Achim Home Furnishings carpet tiles at Amazon or Walmart.

Best for Pets

Serenity Home Peel and Stick 12×12 Carpet Tiles

See It

What We Like

• Berber carpet texture
• Effortless to cut and install
• Easy to clean

What We Don’t Like

• Only available in burgundy

Specs 

• Size: 12-inch by 12-inch
• Installation: Peel and stick
• Colors: 1
• Material: Polyester

The Serenity Home Peel and Stick Carpet Tiles are durable and easy to clean. Muddy paws and pet accidents won’t stain if dealt with promptly, and the loop-pile fibers provide a durable, resilient surface, making these our best carpet for pets choice.

Easy to install, these 12-by-12-inch adhesive carpet tiles come with a peel-off paper backing that allows the user to position the tile and press it firmly in place. Suitable for virtually any room, including home offices, basements, or even garage flooring, these carpet tiles feature looped polyester, and, unlike some carpet tiles, buyers can safely use a carpet cleaning machine on these. One order includes 12 tiles.

Get the Serenity Home carpet tiles at Amazon.

How We Chose the Best Carpet Tiles

Carpet tiles should be durable, easy to install, and easy to replace when one becomes stained or torn. We considered these factors when researching over 30 different carpet tile options. We also looked at user reviews and chose only products with high customer satisfaction rates.

We then narrowed our list of recommended carpet tiles to find options that would work for different types of spaces in a home, such as basements, playrooms, and high-traffic living rooms. Installation was a key concern, so we chose easy-to-install tiles with peel-and-stick, glue-down, interlocking, or floating floor applications. To ensure that our picks would meet numerous design needs, we selected highly rated brands that offered some of the best carpet colors and designs. 

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Carpet Tiles

From room type to installation method, there are many factors that can help decide which carpet floor covering is best for a particular situation. Below are some of the most important carpet tile characteristics and features to think about. 

Room Type

“Carpet tiles are a great option for high traffic areas such as entryways, hallways or family rooms,” says Jennifer Jones, principal designer at Niche Interiors in San Francisco, California. “The genius behind carpet tiles is that a stubborn spill or stain won’t ruin the entire rug! Simply replace the tile with a new one and extend the life of your rug.”

With that in mind, a room’s primary use and traffic level are essential factors in choosing carpet tiles because the materials that go into making a particular carpet tile will help determine where they’re best suited. Soft, luxurious tiles might feel oh-so-heavenly underfoot, but they might not be suitable in a basement if they’re prone to developing mold or mildew. 

Some manufacturers gear their carpet tiles toward specific rooms that might become damp by using materials that resist moisture damage. These moisture-resistant carpet tiles can be suitable for kitchens, laundry rooms, and bathrooms. Other carpet tiles are better suited to bedrooms and family rooms where water and humidity aren’t issues.

Carpet Fiber

Another crucial consideration when choosing carpet tiles is the carpet fibers. Fibers can offer the desired degree of softness, cushioning, and durability needed for different applications. Nylon, polyester, polypropylene, and natural fibers are commonly found in carpet tiles, and each has its benefits and considerations. Many carpet tiles made from synthetic fibers are recyclable. 

• Nylon: Widely found in carpet tiles, nylon fibers create a durable surface that withstands spills and ground-in dirt without leaving permanent stains. Nylon is naturally mildew resistant, so it’s well suited to installation in a basement or a kitchen where moisture or spills are likely. Nylon fibers can either have a soft surface or a surface that’s stiff and scratchy. Cheaper nylon fibers are found in less-expensive carpet tiles, and they don’t hold up as well as higher-quality nylon fibers. Examine nylon carpet tiles to see if the fibers are firmly attached to the base and whether the surface is soft when rubbing a hand over it.
• Polyester: Comfortable and soft underfoot, polyester is mildew resistant, and it makes for a nice comfy floor surface. Polyester carpet fibers are well suited to bedrooms and family rooms where comfort is a factor, but they’re not quite as stain resistant as nylon and polypropylene, so they might not be the best choice for kitchens or playrooms. High-end carpet tiles often feature polyester fibers.
• Polypropylene: Carpet tiles with polypropylene fibers are waterproof and resistant to stains and wear, so they’re helpful in homes with kids and pets, basements, and garages. However, they can tend to be a bit scratchy, so they’re probably not best for families who want to lounge on the floor. Polypropylene carpet tiles are made by looping the polypropylene fibers, which can trap crumbs and make it difficult to vacuum the tiles thoroughly. Depending on the type of backing, some carpet tile floors made from polypropylene will withstand a  steam cleaner. 
• Natural Fibers: While less common, some manufacturers offer plush carpet tiles made from wool or sisal. In general, natural-fiber carpet tiles are more expensive than synthetic fibers, but they are strong and eco-friendly. 
• Wool: Pricier than synthetic fibers, wool is strong, soft to the touch and offers an insulating effect. The downside is that stains are more difficult to remove from wool. 
• Sisal: Derived from the Agave genus of plants, sisal is a fine fiber that can be used to create a natural carpeting. It’s strong enough to withstand high-traffic areas, but, like wool, it’s also pricier than synthetic options. 

Tile Backing

A thick, cushioned tile backing will give the whole floor a softer, more springy feel. A thin, rigid backing doesn’t offer much in the way of cushioning but may be better used in some areas of a home. Backing materials can vary in thickness from a mere 1/16 inch up to an average of 3/8 inch for the thicker rubber and polyurethane varieties. Except for PVC, the following synthetic fibers are all recyclable. Check the product description to determine whether specific carpet tiles are made from recyclable materials. 

• PVC: Short for polyvinyl chloride, PVC is extremely durable, water resistant, and affordable. It’s often found as the backing on less-expensive carpet tiles and will stand the test of time. It doesn’t offer much padding, however. PVC is related to plastic, but unlike regular plastic, it contains chlorine and cannot be recycled.
• Plastic: Similar to PVC in feel and also stain resistant and water resistant, plastic backing is usually thin and relatively stiff. However, it’s well suited to use in rooms where moisture is a factor.
• Polyurethane: Some of the higher-end carpet tiles, designed for installation in the bedroom or the family room, come with cushioned polyurethane backing, which offers a nice padded feel underfoot. It’s a type of foam, but it may not be as moisture resistant as PVC or plastic. Depending on the specific product, it can be up to 3/8 inch thick. 
• Rubber: Soft and resilient, rubber tile backing offers both a measure of cushioning as well as durability. Carpet tiles with rubber backing are favorites in kitchens where the cushioning helps ease standing fatigue on legs and feet and rubber resists moisture damage. Like polyurethane, rubber backing may be as thick as 3/8 inch. 
• Polypropylene: The same material used in some carpet fibers, polypropylene is tough, durable, and moisture resistant, but it doesn’t offer much in the way of padding. 

Visual Effect

Carpet tiles are available in various colors, designs, and textures to suit any room. A single smooth pattern can be used throughout a room, or ribbed tiles can be used to form a checkerboard look. This is a popular design because it creates a deliberate visual separation between the tiles, making the overall tile effect look more purposeful. Most come in square or rectangular shapes, but a few are available in other shapes like octagons.

While carpet tiles are offered in a range of colors, some carpet tile packs include different colors within the same pack, providing a fun and whimsical design to a floor. “We love using carpet tiles in fun patterns and colors in kids bedrooms where tastes can change quickly. They are an affordable solution and extremely customizable,” says Jones. 

For the formal-minded, though, carpet tiles with the same pattern are often installed in a linear fashion, which unifies the room and offers a wall-to-wall effect.

Style

Like wall-to-wall carpeting, carpet tiles are made with different fiber configurations that can change the surface’s look and feel. 

• Cut pile: Among the lushest carpet types, cut pile features carpet yarn fibers cut flat at the top. The individual yarns look and feel soft and luxurious, making them well suited to bedrooms or family rooms.
• Cut pile plush: Like cut pile, the loops of cut pile plush are cut at the top to form single strands, but additional yarn is woven in to create a denser look and feel. It’s suitable for most rooms but especially used where family members spend time on the floor.
• Loop pile: In a loop-pile carpet, the yarns are looped, not cut, which gives the carpet a smooth, condensed look. Loop-pile carpet tiles are usually intended for basements, laundry rooms, and kitchens.
• Multilevel loop pile: Manufactured in the same manner as loop pile, the loops of multilevel loop pile have random heights. This gives the carpet a textured look and feel, and it’s suitable in most rooms, especially basements and kitchens.

Installation

Traditional carpet installation requires attaching razor-sharp carpet strips along the walls and then stretching the carpet over the strips using professional tools and techniques. Carpet tile installations are completely DIY-friendly, although they install in a few different ways. 

• Adhesive: Carpet tiles that install with adhesive require spreading a thin layer of the glue over a strip of the existing floor, waiting a few minutes until the glue becomes tacky, and then positioning the individual tiles. The directions on the adhesive may indicate that goggles and masks are recommended. 
• Peel-and-stick: Similar to vinyl tiles, peel-and-stick carpet tiles are among the simplest to install. The user lays out the tile pattern on the floor, lifts each tile in turn, peels off the paper backing, and positions it on the subfloor. The adhesive on peel-and-stick tiles often remains sticky so the tiles can be pulled when one needs to be replaced without scraping residue from the floor. 
• Floating: A floating carpet tile floor means that the tiles are not attached to the subflooring. Floating carpet tiles interlock on their sides—much like puzzle pieces. This is usually the better option for renters and those who like to frequently change interior decor. 

FAQs About Carpet Tiles

Carpet tiles can be affordable and DIY-friendly, and many are water resistant, making them suitable for homes with children and pets. For those shopping for carpet tiles for the first time, a few questions are to be expected. Here are answers to some popular questions.

The post The Best Carpet Tiles of 2025 for Every Space in Your Home appeared first on Bob Vila.

Peeling up vinyl flooring is no picnic, but the real trial is to get rid of the glue that had been securing the vinyl to the subfloor.

The only silver lining here is that while the work may be tedious and time-consuming, anyone can learn how to remove vinyl flooring. No special tools or advanced skills are required—it’s really only a matter of putting in the work.

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Before You Begin

Until the mid-1980s, asbestos often served as an ingredient in vinyl flooring products. If you know that the flooring you’re removing has been around that long, or if you’re not certain how old the vinyl floor is, you’ll want to test for asbestos before you move forward. It’s a good idea to hire a professional to do this.

4 Steps to Removing Vinyl Flooring

Step 1: Remove furniture and baseboards from the room.

To remove vinyl flooring, you must first take all furniture out of the room and give yourself unimpeded access to the work area. You’ll also need to carefully remove all baseboards and any other trim that meets the floor.

Step 2: Cut flooring into 12-inch strips.

Next, locate a section of the floor with no glue underneath. Start removing vinyl flooring right here, using a utility knife to cut the material into 12-inch strips.

Pull up each one gently. Where you encounter resistance from the glue, use a scraper tool (or even a kitchen spatula) to get the strip loose. In places where the glue is especially tenacious, you can use a hammer-and-chisel combination to chip at the hardened adhesive.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I like to remove a small section [of vinyl] before strategizing for the entire floor. Find an edge and peel, cut and scrape as necessary to expose the edge tape. If the vinyl is only taped, the center sections will peel away easily. If glue is present, use a thin-edged flooring scraper while pulling strips of vinyl away. Adding a solvent or soap mixture can help to soften and release the glue. Heat from a hair dryer or heat gun is also useful, but vinyl will melt with too much concentrated heat so be cautious when a heat gun is present.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

 

Step 3: Get rid of the glue.

One of the downsides of vinyl flooring is that its adhesive makes the flooring tough to remove. If you remove the vinyl flooring but there’s glue remaining on the subfloor, try this: Mix warm water and soap in a bucket, then apply it liberally to the glue, allowing time for the mixture to soak in. When you return, the glue will have softened and become easier to remove.

If that doesn’t work, it’s time to bring some heat into the equation. Buy or rent a heat gun—or in a pinch, use your hair dryer—and hold it directly over the stubborn adhesive long enough to soften the glue (but not long enough to cause any damage to the subfloor). Then go at the glue with your trusty scraper.

Step 4: Clean up.

The last step to removing vinyl flooring is some final cleanup: Use a broom or shop vac to remove all remaining debris.

Another Way to Remove Vinyl Flooring

If this process seems like way too much work, another option is to rent a power scraper from your local home improvement center, which will make quicker work of things. If you opt for the power scraper, be sure to test it first in an inconspicuous area; you will need to adjust its angle so that it removes only the vinyl-and-glue layer, not the underlying subfloor. Score the vinyl into 10-inch sections with the utility knife, then turn on the scraper and get busy.

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Gum can easily make its way onto your carpet, whether it’s from a misstep outdoors or from someone accidentally dropping it inside. While it might seem tempting to pull the gum out by hand, doing so can damage your carpet fibers. 

Fortunately, we know a handful of effective ways to remove gum without causing harm to your carpet. Before you begin, it’s always a good idea to test your chosen technique in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it won’t harm your particular carpet’s fibers or coloring.

5 Ways to Remove Gum From Carpet

All of these methods for removing gum from carpet can be completed using simple household items and ingredients. 

1. Ice Cubes

To prevent a sticky situation from getting even stickier, give lodged-in wads of gum the cold shoulder with ice cubes. Gather ice cubes from the freezer, and then follow the following steps:

1. Place a handful of ice cubes in a Ziploc bag and press the ice onto the gum wad. Leave it in place until the gum freezes and hardens.
2. Gently pick at and pull the frozen gum from the carpet using your fingers, a scraping tool, or a butter knife.
3. Start lifting along the edges and move toward the center of the wad, taking care not to remove the carpet fibers along with the gum! (Master this technique, and in the future you can even apply it to upholstery messes and gummed-up clothes.)
4. To deal with any stubborn leftover residue, you can root it out with a few drops of methyl salicylate (such as the pain-relieving cream Bengay).
5. Scrub away any discoloration or carpet stains left in the gum’s wake with a mild carpet-cleaning detergent.
6. Rinse the area with warm water.

If this method doesn’t work quite as well as you’d like, try dabbing a small amount of rubbing alcohol onto a clean white cloth or cotton ball, then gently blot the gum residue. The alcohol will help break down the gum’s stickiness.

2. Hair Dryer

A hair dryer can be an effective way to soften gum, making it easier to remove without damaging your carpet. Here’s how to do it:

1. Set the hair dryer to a low or medium heat setting. You don’t want to overheat the carpet fibers.
2. Hold the dryer a few inches above the gum. Aim the warm air directly at the gum for about 30 seconds to soften it.
3. Once it’s softened, use a dull knife or spoon to carefully lift the gum from the carpet. Avoid pulling too hard to prevent damaging the fibers.
4. After the gum is removed, clean the area with warm soapy water to remove any remaining stickiness.

This method works best for smaller gum spots and is pretty low risk in terms of damaging the carpet.

3. WD-40 

Another household workhorse, WD-40 is also effective for dealing with gum in carpet and rugs. Chewing gum is hydrophobic, which means it can’t be dissolved by water. To break it up, dissolve it using another hydrophobic material, like WD-40. (The WD-40 technique should be a quicker fix than the ice technique, because you won’t have to wait around for the gum to harden.) Here’s what to do:

1. Spray a liberal amount of WD-40 on the chewing-gum stain. Point the spray straw as close as you can to the underside of the area, where the gum meets the carpet. You may need to use your fingers to work the WD-40 into the carpet fibers.
2. Wait 5 or 10 minutes.
3. Using a rag or small scrub brush, wipe or lightly scrub the gum in one direction.
4. Add more WD-40 as needed to remove remaining gum from the carpet. Continue wiping in the same direction.

4. Vinegar

White vinegar has so many uses around the home that it’s no surprise it can also be used to get gum out of carpet. Here’s how natural, do-everything vinegar can get chewing gum from carpet:

1. Warm ¼ cup of white vinegar in the microwave.
2. Dab a clean white cloth or towel into the vinegar, and then dab it onto the gum.
3. Use a putty knife, dull knife, or the side of a spoon to scrape away as much gum as you can.
4. Use an old toothbrush to brush away the remaining gum. (The gum remnants will gunk up the toothbrush entirely, so you’ll want to toss it after using it for this task.)

5. Peanut Butter

Peanut butter is another surprisingly effective way to loosen gum from your carpet. The oils in the peanut butter help break down the gum’s sticky texture, making it easier to lift. However, be prepared for a bit of cleanup afterward. Here’s how to do it:

1. Apply a small amount of peanut butter. Use a spoon or knife to gently spread a thin layer of peanut butter over the gum. Be careful not to push it deeper into the carpet fibers.
2. Allow the peanut butter to sit on the gum for a few minutes to soften it.
3. Use a dull knife or spoon to lift the gum from the carpet. The peanut butter should have loosened it, making it easier to remove.
4. After removing the gum, you’ll need to clean the area well. Use a dish soap and water mixture to remove the oily residue left by the peanut butter. Follow up with a clean, damp cloth to remove any remaining soap.

While this method can be effective, it does require a thorough cleaning afterward to ensure the peanut butter doesn’t leave an oily stain.

Tips for Keeping Your Carpet Clean

How to get old black gum out of carpet

Freeze it off. Place a couple of ice cubes in a plastic bag, and leave the ice on the gum until the gum is hard and brittle. Scrape off frozen gum residue with a putty knife or butter knife.  

How to get gum out of a wool carpet

The freezing tip mentioned above will also work on removing gum stuck in wool carpets. Simply freeze the gum and scrape it off with a sharp edge, without having to worry about whether a solvent will damage the wool.

How to get chewy sweets out of carpet

Begin by blotting the candy with a rag dipped in cold water, which should loosen the sticky bond. Scrape away any large bits of candy, and then apply a stain remover or carpet cleaning solution. Wait a few minutes, then carefully blot the stain remover. If the stain persists, blot it with a clean cloth dipped in white vinegar.

How to get hard stuff out of carpet

It depends on what the hard stuff is. If you know the substance is candle wax, you can either try the ice technique, or use a warm iron. To remove candle wax with an iron, lay a damp white cloth over the stain. Then, with an iron set to low heat, iron the cloth until it absorbs the wax. Repeat as needed, covering the wax with a clean area of the cloth each time.

The post How to Get Gum Out of Carpet appeared first on Bob Vila.

Think about the beating your wood floors endure on a daily basis: high heels, pet nails, children’s toys, and shifting furniture, to name a few! Tough as wood floors may be, their finish is still susceptible to scratches and scuffs. Refinishing wood floors, the process of sanding floors down entirely to apply a new surface finish, is costly and really only necessary every few decades. But polishing with a product specifically formulated for your floors is an easy, inexpensive way to regain shine, even out imperfections, and extend the life of your handsome hardwood. All it takes is a flat-head mop with a microfiber cleaning pad and commercial wood floor polish, which comes in low- or high-gloss sheens to achieve your desired look.

Whether or not you should polish your floors, however, depends on their finish. Those with a protective surface—a waterproof barrier such as urethane, for example—will benefit from polish, but floors with penetrating finishes like tung oil or unsealed wood require wax instead of polish. Using the wrong product can cause a host of problems, from making floors too slick to dulling the finish, and impair proper refinishing down the road. It’s important to determine which kind of floor you have (our Step 1 in this guide on how to polish wood floors) before you dive in and cause damage.

Step 1: Test the finish on your wood floors. 

If you’re not sure what type of finish is on your floor, use a sharp knife blade to scrape off a tiny bit from an inconspicuous area.

• If the finish is smudged but no clear material is scraped up, your floor probably has a penetrating finish. Stop here, and do not polish these wood floors; these should only be waxed.
• If you see a clear material, your flooring likely has a surface finish. It’s safe to polish these wood floors. Still, be sure to test out the polish in a small hidden or inconspicuous location on the wood before tackling the entire floor.

Carpet, hardwood, vinyl, and tile flooring.

Bob Vila has partnered with Empire Today to help you easily get beautiful new floors at a great price.
Free In-Home Estimates

Step 2: Clear and clean your wood floors of dust and dirt. 

Empty the room, removing as much furniture as possible, then clean the wood floor thoroughly to remove dust and dirt. Sweep or vacuum, then mop with a commercial wood floor cleaner or solution of a 1/4 cup of dish soap and 1 gallon of warm water to lift any lingering grime. Give the floors a final pass with a clean, water-dampened mop to remove any cleaner residue. Dry completely with a soft, clean towel.

Step 3: Polish the wood to a shine.

Begin in a back corner of the room, plotting a path that will have you end up near an exit, pour a small S-shaped amount of wood floor polish onto the floor.

Using a flat-surface mop, work the solution back and forth in the direction of the wood grain, smoothing out any air bubbles. Work in small areas (about 3 to 5 feet wide in either direction) to best control the amount of polish you’ve applied.

While you must make sure to completely coat the floor, thin layers will dry more quickly than thick ones, and you can always apply another coat if needed.

Note: Polish can stain drywall and baseboards, so take care not to make contact with these areas.

Step 4: Wait a day before replacing furniture.

Wait at least one hour before allowing light traffic through the room and a full day before moving your belongings back in and resuming normal use. To avoid scratching, take care not to drag or slide furniture; pick up each piece up and place them where they belong. Attach felt furniture pads underneath heavy pieces for extra protection.

Tried-and-True Advice

“Most of us focus on the type of product we put on our floors when preparing to polish them but the quality of the mop is just as important. Choosing the wrong mop leaves streaks on your floors or, at worse, causes scratches if the brush is too abrasive. I get the best results by using a high-quality microfiber mop. It’s soft enough that it won’t damage the floors and does a good job of spreading polish evenly without streaks. Also, don’t forget to clean the mop head in between polishings.”

—Tony Carrick, Contributing Writer

 

Step 5: Follow a few precautions to keep wood floors looking great, and you can put off your next polishing job.

Now that your floors look like new, maintain them by placing rugs at entry doors to prevent dirt from being tracked inside. If your kitchen has wood flooring, also place a rug at the sink to catch stray drops of water.

Stick to a regular cleaning routine, vacuuming weekly and giving the floors a deep clean monthly. Skip any homemade cleaning solutions that include diluted vinegar or ammonia on wood floors—all they’ll do is dull a surface-finished floor. Instead, for an all-natural approach, make a homemade wood floor cleaner, which features castile soap.

These measures will go a way to make preserve your wood floor’s shine. You may still want to repeat the polishing process a few times annually, as needed, but don’t exceed four applications per year.

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