Adding sufficient attic insulation is an excellent way to protect your home from temperature extremes and moisture damage while reducing heating and cooling costs. Insulation acts as a barrier to prevent the transfer of heat flow from the inside to the outside of the house in winter or from the outside to the inside in summer.

After reviewing several types of attic insulation, including the most sought-after products, our top pick is the Owens Corning R-38 Faced Fiberglass Insulation. Made of stiff fiberglass batts, this insulation is easy to cut and install and won’t slip out of place. It also offers a Kraft paper-faced side to mitigate moisture issues.

We also spoke to a veteran roofer and contractor for an expert opinion on insulation types for attics, R-values, and when to DIY versus when to call in a professional. Read on for key tips and a curated list of some of the best attic insulation products on the market. 

1. BEST OVERALL: Owens Corning R-38 Faced Fiberglass Insulation
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2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Frost King CF1 “No Itch” Natural Cotton Insulation
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3. BEST BLANKET: Owens Corning R-30 Unfaced Fiberglass Insulation
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4. BEST BLOWN-IN: Greenfiber 25 lbs. Cellulose Blown-In Insulation
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5. BEST RADIANT FOIL: US Energy Products Double Bubble Foil Insulation
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6. BEST FOAM BOARD: Owens Corning Pink Insulation FOAMULAR 250 Board 
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Before You Buy Attic Insulation

In most circumstances, it makes sense to add attic insulation. However, in a few situations, installing insulation can cause serious problems, such as in older homes that were built with large gaps between the walls to account for the moisture that naturally leaks into homes. The gaps allow the moisture to dry without causing damage to the structure, but if these spaces are filled with insulation, it can absorb the moisture and lead to mold and rotted wood.

If you have an old or wood-shingled roof and you attempt to install insulation on the ceiling of your attic, a similar situation could occur. These older roofing materials were made to get wet, breathe, and dry, but with insulation blocking the wood, the moisture will only accumulate. 

According to Michael Casolaro, President & Owner of MCAS Roofing & Contracting, Inc. in Croton-on-Hudson, New York, you should avoid adding insulation to attics with existing ventilation or moisture issues. “If your attic has existing moisture problems, mold, poor ventilation, or exposed wires, homeowners should avoid installing insulation before first fixing these issues. Adding insulation to an attic in any of these conditions can make your problems worse,” he says. 

Also, avoid using insulation anywhere near knob and tube wiring, which is an outdated electrical system that’s a major fire hazard and should be replaced as soon as possible. 

Attic Insulation Comparison Chart

Our Top Picks

The top-rated products below were chosen for their quality, price, and customer satisfaction to help you find the best attic insulation to protect your home from high- and low-temperature extremes.

Best Overall

Owens Corning R-38 Faced Fiberglass Insulation

See It

What We Like

• GreenGuard Certified for low chemical emissions
• Features a Kraft paper vapor retarder
• DIY-friendly; easy to cut and install
• Can be installed on top of existing insulation

What We Don’t Like

• Must be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier

Specs 

• Type: Blanket 
• R-Value: R-38
• Material: Fiberglass 

Install this insulation from Owens Corning in an uninsulated attic or add it as a second layer to increase the R-value potential of a home and cut heating and cooling costs. It features a Kraft paper barrier to help prevent moisture issues and is GreenGuard-certified for low chemical emissions into indoor air. 

Each package includes eight pieces of fiberglass attic insulation, and each piece measures 48 inches by 16 inches. Using all eight pieces without cutting them covers a 42.67-square-foot space with 12.5-inch thick insulation. This blanket-style attic insulation is easy to cut and install, and the thick insulating material also helps reduce noise and vibration in your home.

Get the Owens Corning R-38 attic insulation at The Home Depot or Lowes.

Best Bang for the Buck

Frost King CF1 "No Itch" Natural Cotton Insulation

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What We Like

• Suitable for attic floors, ceilings, and walls
• Doesn’t require gloves or safety glasses when cutting 
• Works around pipes, ducts, windows, and doors
• Resistant to mold, mildew, and fire 

What We Don’t Like

• May not provide ample thermal insulation

Specs 

• Type: Blanket 
• R-Value: R-4 
• Material: Cotton 

Affordable and effective, this natural cotton attic insulation by Frost King is 1 inch thick and measures 16 inches by 48 inches. Use one or more pieces on attic walls, floors, and as attic ceiling insulation, or cut or rip up smaller pieces of insulation to fill in gaps around pipes, ducts, windows, and doors.

While this isn’t waterproof insulation, it’s made with cotton denim that’s resistant to mold and mildew. This is an all-natural alternative to woven fiberglass. Moreover, natural cotton denim is safe and easy to install with just your hands and a utility knife.

Get the Frost King attic insulation at Amazon, Ace Hardware, The Home Depot, and Walmart.

Best Blanket

Owens Corning R-30 Unfaced Fiberglass Insulation

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What We Like

• Made with 65 percent recycled content
• Easy to cut and position
• Helps regulate heat in every season
• Provides noise-reducing benefits

What We Don’t Like

• May not provide ample thermal insulation

Specs 

• Type: Blanket 
• R-Value: R-30
• Material: Fiberglass

This blanket insulation from Owens Corning is easy to cut, position, and install in almost any space. The woven fiberglass insulation is made with 65 percent recycled content and feels as soft as cotton.

This blanket insulation for a roof with attic space comes in 9-inch-thick insulation rolls. It boasts an R-value of 30, keeping your home warm in colder months and cooler in the warmer months. It also aids in reducing the transmission of noise.

Get the Owens Corning R-30 attic insulation at The Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware.

Best Blown-in

Greenfiber 25 lbs. Cellulose Blown-In Insulation

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What We Like

• 25 percent reduction in heating and cooling costs 
• Made with 85 percent recycled material
• Reduces noise by 60 percent
• Reduces fire hazards

What We Don’t Like

• Some users report unpleasant smell

Specs 

• Type: Blown-in or spray foam 
• R-Value: R-19 to R-60
• Material: Cellulose 

With versatile application options and an R-value of R-19, the Greenfiber Cellulose Blown-In insulation is a viable option for attics, sidewalls, and ceilings. Whether you spray it on or opt for blow-in application, this insulation is easy to apply over existing insulation or alone and reduces your heating and cooling costs by up to 25 percent. 

This insulation can cover 48 square feet of attic space and is suitable for all climates. It also reduces noise in your home by 60 percent, is made with 85 percent recycled material, and uses low-energy manufacturing. Finally, it has ample fire resistance and is carbon-locked, which makes it long-lasting. 

Get the Greenfiber attic insulation at The Home Depot or Lowe’s.

Best Radiant Foil

US Energy Products Double Bubble Foil Insulation

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What We Like

• Reflects up to 97 percent of heat
• Suitable for high-heat regions
• Light weight for easy cutting and installation

What We Don’t Like

• Needs used with foam board or blanket insulation

Specs 

• Type: Radiant foil 
• R-Value: Not specified
• Material: Aluminum polyester and polyethylene 

This radiant foil attic insulation by US Energy Products is a solid option when paired with another insulating material like foam board or blanket insulation because radiant foil can reflect up to 97 percent of radiant heat. The secondary insulator resists the flow of the residual heat. This insulation is easy to cut with a utility knife or scissors and simple to install with staples, nails, or an adhesive.

The insulation acts as a sandwich, with two layers of reflective metalized aluminum polyester film on the outside and two layers of polyethylene air bubbles on the inside. The air bubbles reduce the flow of heat, while the foil reflects the radiant heat. This construction keeps homes cool in warmer climates and warm in colder weather.

Get the US Energy insulation on Amazon.

Best Foam Board

Owens Corning Pink Insulation FOAMULAR 250 Board

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What We Like

• Suitable for attics, cavity wall insulation, and more
• Easy to install; can be cut if necessary
• Keeps moisture out
• Maintains R-value in extreme temperatures

What We Don’t Like

• Some users report awkward sizing

Specs 

• Type: Foam board
• R-Value: R-10
• Material: Extruded polystyrene

Foam board insulation is rigid and lightweight, making it easy to carry and install on floors, walls, ceilings, and around windows. Use a warm utility knife to slice through this foam board from Owens Corning with a high degree of precision. This method allows users to form the insulation to the exact size requirements or even to cut rounded shapes in the foam board so heat isn’t lost around pipes or other obstructions.

This insulation has low water absorption potential and is ideal for creating a vapor barrier in narrow gaps around windows and doors where significant amounts of heat can be lost from a home in the winter months.

Get the Owens Corning attic insulation on The Home Depot.

How We Chose the Best Attic Insulations

We researched the most sought-after attic insulations in their respective categories and discovered that the best options are determined by their type, R-value, materials, ease of application, and other special features included by select brands.

While assembling our list of top picks, we made sure to include diverse options, including blanket, spray/blow-in, radiant foil, and foam board insulation with R-values ranging from R-1.3 to R-40 for any required heat resistance. These insulation options are made with fiberglass, cotton, cellulose, polyester, polyethylene, and polystyrene, all of which are easy to install and suitable for cutting or adjusting as needed. 

Our top picks also offer mold-, mildew-, and fire-resistance and the added benefit of noise reduction. Plus, many of the above options are made with recycled or pre-consumed materials and are eco-friendly. 

Types of Attic Insulation

Several different types of attic insulation are available, including blanket, spray foam, radiant foil, and foam boards, each with benefits and shortcomings. 

According to Casolaro, the three best types of attic insulation include spray foam, fiberglass batts, and blown-in insulation. “Spray foam does the best job of insulating your attic, but it’s the most expensive,” he says “Fiberglass batts are affordable, but it’s more likely that air will leak through gaps. Most often, I’ll recommend blown-in insulation, which balances effectiveness with cost.”

Read below for a more detailed look at the pros and cons of each type of attic insulation so you can decide which is best for your unique circumstances.

Blanket Insulation

Blanket insulation is one of the most common types of insulation for walls and attic floors; however, don’t use it in open spaces because the fiberglass particles can affect the air quality in your home. Cut the thick pieces of insulation to fit tightly between the gaps in wooden frames or around pipes, wires, and other obstacles.

While this insulation is also one of the most inexpensive and easiest types to install, it isn’t as effective as spray foam insulation. When installing blanket insulation, wear a breathing mask and protective gloves to avoid irritating your lungs and skin.

Spray Foam

Spray foam insulation is the primary type of attic insulation. Pair it with blanket insulation to better insulate edges and corners, and use it to seal gaps in existing walls. Spray foam attic insulation costs more than other types and can be a hassle to remove. However, it’s the most effective option for insulating your home against the transmission of hot and cold air.

The spray foam is made of liquid polyurethane, which, when sprayed into the cavity of your wall or attic, expands and hardens into a solid foam. If you haven’t used spray foam insulation before, consider hiring a professional to install it to ensure your home is adequately protected.

Blow-In 

Blown-in insulation refers to blowing or spraying insulation products into wall cavities, attics, and floors. Methods vary depending on the form of insulation selected. Two of the most common types of blow-in insulation are fiberglass, rock wool, and cellulose, which are applied in an attic space with a blowing machine for easy, even distribution. 

Conveniently, most blown-in options can be applied over existing insulation and fill between existing wall studs and ceiling joists for increased insulation. 

Radiant Foil

Because it’s designed primarily to reflect heat away from your home, radiant foil insulation is more common in warmer climates. It works through its reflective foil barrier, which is attached to kraft paper or polyethylene bubbles. The bubbles help prevent the transfer of heat through the barrier because they provide a pocket of air, which reduces the rate at which heat can move through the substance.

While standard insulation reduces the flow of heat, radiant foil reflects it. Because of this difference, radiant foil cannot be measured using the same factors attributed to blanket, spray, or foam board insulation. Radiant foil usually is the most affordable type of insulation.

Foam Boards

Low in cost and easy to install, foam board insulation is generally made of polyurethane, polystyrene, or polyisocyanurate. Sheets of foam board can be cut to fit tightly between wall studs or attic ceiling joists. Because they are not as effective at insulating, foam boards are not as popular as blanket insulation.

However, foam boards don’t cause moisture accumulation and mold growth as can blanket insulation, because the solid foam doesn’t absorb much moisture. Instead, it dries in a relatively quick time frame. 

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Attic Insulation

Finding the proper insulation for your home isn’t difficult once you’ve determined which type of insulation to purchase. If you’re wondering what is insulation made of or how to find the correct R-value for your geographic location, here’s what you need to know.

R-Value 

Attic insulation ranges in effectiveness, so manufacturers and industry professionals typically reference insulation’s R-value to help people find the best attic insulation for their homes. R-value is a measurement of the insulation’s resistance to the flow of heat. The higher the R-value rating of a product, the more effective it is at reducing energy costs.

R-values for insulation are usually listed in the product description or on the product packaging. However, radiant foil insulation isn’t measured by R-value because it’s designed to reflect heat instead of reducing the transmission of heat. The optimal R-value for the insulation in your home also depends on your geographic location. Review this Energy Star R-value chart to learn the estimated R-value for your area.

Material

Insulation for attic spaces can be constructed from a wide range of materials, including cellulose, fiberglass, mineral wool, liquid polyurethane, and polystyrene.

• Cellulose insulation was used regularly in buildings for most of the last 100 years. This insulation material consists of cellulosic fibers like newspaper, cardboard, cotton, straw, hemp, and sawdust. At just 3.8 per inch of cellulose insulation, the R-value is relatively low.
• Fiberglass insulation is made from tightly woven fibers that are light, malleable, and relatively simple to cut and install. This material is regularly used in blanket insulation and has an R-value of 2.7 per inch.
• Mineral wool has an R-value of 3.3 per inch. It’s a stone-based mineral fiber insulation material that contains basalt rock and recycled steel slag.
• Liquid polyurethane is the main ingredient in spray foam insulation. The R-value of this type of insulation ranges from 3.5 per inch to 6.5 per inch, depending on whether you’re using open-cell (3.5) or closed-cell (6.5) spray foam.
• Polystyrene is used to create foam board insulation with a variable R-value of 3.8 per inch to 5 per inch, depending on whether it’s expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) or extruded polystyrene, which can be identified by the blue or pink color.
• Cotton is a very reliable insulation material for your attic and it is commonly made with recycled materials and is very easy to cut and install. This material is also safer than fiberglass during installation and use as there are fewer fibers floating around. 

Tips for Installing Attic Insulation

Keep in mind that insulation cannot be installed just anywhere in your home. For instance, if blanket insulation is placed over air intake vents, the harmful particles can circulate through your home. Additionally, placing insulation near exposed electrical connections or over the top of heat vents could cause a fire. 

Based on the type and style of the home, also consider how and where to place the insulation. Older homes and homes with wooden shingles may be built with a design that allows the natural evaporation of excess moisture. Insulation installed in these areas acts as a sponge, soaking up the moisture instead of allowing it to dissipate. As moisture builds up, mold can grow and eventually rot out the wood. 

With blanket insulation, cut spaces in the insulation to allow it to fit around obstructions like drainage pipes, large water pipes, attic fans, and HVAC ducts. When blanket insulation becomes compressed, it’s less effective at insulating your home, such as when you forcibly install a piece of insulation around a pipe instead of cutting a gap to allow it to fit comfortably.

• Don’t install insulation over air vents, near electrical circuits, or in any other areas where it poses a risk.
• Carefully inspect older homes before installing insulation to ensure it won’t cause moisture accumulation that can lead to mold and rot.
• Blanket insulation is not as effective if it’s compacted during installation, so cut spaces for large drainage pipes and other obstacles instead of forcing the insulation to fit around them.
• Don’t install insulation in attics with moisture problems without first rectifying the issue. If you’re unsure if there’s moisture in the walls, use a moisture meter for detection, or call in a pro.

While laying insulation in attic spaces can be DIY-friendly, some situations require a professional insulation contractor. “If you’re a DIYer, you might be able to install your own insulation. However, there are a few situations where you should work with a pro,” advises Casolaro. “If you choose spray foam insulation, it’s tricky to install correctly without experience. Also, if your home is older, there’s a greater risk of exposed wires, moisture, and improper ventilation. A professional is more likely to recognize these issues.”

FAQs 

Before investing in new attic insulation, take a look at these frequently asked questions regarding how to insulate an attic.

Why Trust Bob Vila

Bob Vila has been America’s Handyman since 1979. As the host of beloved and groundbreaking TV series including “This Old House” and “Bob Vila’s Home Again,” he popularized and became synonymous with “do-it-yourself” home improvement.

Over the course of his decades-long career, Bob Vila has helped millions of people build, renovate, repair, and live better each day—a tradition that continues today with expert yet accessible home advice. The Bob Vila team distills need-to-know information into project tutorials, maintenance guides, tool 101s, and more. These home and garden experts then thoroughly research, vet, and recommend products that support homeowners, renters, DIYers, and professionals in their to-do lists.

The post Our Favorite Attic Insulation is Surprisingly DIY-Friendly appeared first on Bob Vila.

There’s a simple reason why builders relied on steam radiators for decades and decades—they work! But every technology has drawbacks, and with steam radiators, homeowner complaints often center around noise. At times, with all that clanking and banging, you might wonder why the radiators didn’t come with earplugs. What causes that cacophony, and how can you usher in quiet? If you want to repair a radiator that’s making a lot of noise your home, here are a few things to know.

Why is the radiator making noise?

In a typical steam heat system, a single pipe extends from the boiler to the radiators. At the point where the pipe connects to a radiator, you’ll find an intake valve. This component performs two functions. First, it feeds steam into the radiator. Second, once the steam cools and condenses into water, the intake valve allows the liquid to drain out of the radiator and return to the boiler. At least, that’s how things are supposed to work. But water often gets trapped in the radiator, and when that happens, steam is blocked from entering. As the trapper water and blocked steam play a game of tug-of-war, they produce the delightful symphony that keeps you up at night. So aside from being an awful racket, a noisy radiator means that your system isn’t operating as well as it should.

What to Do About a Noisy Radiator

Tilt it toward the intake valve.

A properly functioning steam radiator does not sit perfectly level on the floor. Rather, it tilts slightly toward the intake valve. That positioning allows condensed water to flow out of the radiator, not by means of a pump, but through the force of gravity. Therefore, if your radiator starts getting noisy, the first thing to check is check whether the radiator remains tilted toward the valve. Use a level, and if you see that the radiator sits level or is tilting away from the valve, intervene. Try slipping a wooden shim or paint stirrer under the legs on the end opposite to the valve. A tilt of only five degrees or so should do the trick.

Tried-and-True Advice

“Growing up in freezing-cold Scotland, I often dealt with noisy radiators that would clank and bang at all hours. One simple trick I found helpful was using a long-handled screwdriver to gently tap the top of the radiator. This can help release trapped air inside, which is often the cause of the noise. Just be sure to tap lightly—too much force could cause damage. It’s a quick fix that worked for me, and might help reduce the noise in your own radiator.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Insulate the radiator pipe.

If you’ve checked the radiator and found that it’s tilting correctly, a different common problem may be at play. Often, steam condenses in the pipe before it even reaches your radiator. If that’s the case, the fix is to insulate the pipe, wherever possible, along its run up from the boiler. Pipe insulation couldn’t be much easier to work with, but the portions of the pipe most in need of insulation may be hidden behind a wall.

Clean or replace the steam vent.

Another possible cause of radiator noise: the steam vent. Try this: Close the intake valve so that no steam can enter the radiator. Next, remove the steam vent from the radiator, placing it in a bowl of vinegar. Let it sit overnight. Doing so may help dissolve any calcium deposits that have gradually accumulated over time. If that doesn’t work, purchase a new steam vent to see whether the replacement fares any better. Readily available at most home centers, a new vent only costs about ten bucks, so it’s worth a shot if all else fails.

Finally, a friendly reminder regarding the use of steam radiators in general: The intake valve should be either fully open or fully closed. Leaving the valve partially open can result in leaks and damage to floors.

The post How to Fix a Noisy Radiator appeared first on Bob Vila.

A wood stove fan can help distribute the heat from a wood-burning stove, warming a room more efficiently than the stove can unassisted. These little fans typically use the heat generated by the stove to power their motors and don’t require any electricity or batteries to operate. There are numerous wood stove fans available, so to find the cream of the crop, we researched more than 20 models, comparing specs and reviewing dozens of customer reviews. We then tested four standout fans.

After testing, our top pick was the two-pack of Flanagan 5-Blade Fireplace Fans. These two fans quickly spun into action as our stove heated up, providing enough airflow to disperse hot air across the room.

We also enlisted the help of a wood stove and chimney expert, Tim Smith, owner of Albany, New York-based Actual Chimney Specialists. Read on to learn which of the best wood stove fans may be right for your home.

1. BEST OVERALL: Flanagan 5-Blade Fireplace Fans
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2. RUNNER UP: Voda 4-Blade Wood Stove Fan
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3. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Tomersun 3-Blade Heat-Powered Wood Stove Fan
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4. BEST COMPACT: Galafire 4-Blade Heat-Powered Wood Stove Fan
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5. MOST VERSATILE: Cwlakon Mounting Wood Stove Fan
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6. HONORABLE MENTION: Hanaoyo 6-Blade Wood Stove Fan
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7. ALSO CONSIDER: Tsendi 4-Blade Silent Operation Wood Stove Fan
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Wood Stove Fans Comparison Chart

Our Top Picks

The products below were tested on a freestanding wood stove and rated based on their performance, durability, and value. Read on to learn how each model fared in our tests and find one right for you.

Best Overall

Flanagan 5-Blade Fireplace Fans

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What We Like

• Includes two 5-blade fans
• Ideal for medium to large rooms
• Attractive price point
• Comes with a stove thermometer

What We Don’t Like

• Not suitable for built-in fireplaces

Specs 

• Blades: 5
• Operating temperature: 185 to 662 degrees Fahrenheit
• Material: Anodized aluminum
• Cubic feet per minute (CFM): 164 to 194

Our Ratings: Performance 4.5/5; Durability 4.5/5; Value 4.3/5

Since wood stove fans are small, they don’t produce a ton of airflow. Utilizing two fans, one on each side of the stove, is a more efficient way to disperse heat, which is why our top pick is this affordably priced pack of two fans from Flanagan. 

These heat-powered fans have five blades that begin spinning when surface temperatures reach around 130 degrees Fahrenheit. The blades spin faster as the stove heats up, with an operating range from 185 to 662 degrees Fahrenheit. If temperatures exceed 482 degrees Fahrenheit (the ideal operating temperature), the fan’s base will lift, protecting the motor from heat damage. 

The Flanagan fans are smaller than some of the other models we tested, but their five blades spun fast, producing the most airflow. We placed one on each side of our wood stove and could feel a warm breeze when standing in front of them. We also appreciated that this two-pack included a wood stove thermometer, which allowed us to easily monitor our stove’s surface temperatures. 

What our tester says: “The Flanagan wood stove fans were quick to power up, and their blades spun quickly, helping to move the heat from the top of the wood stove throughout the room. They did a better job of producing airflow than even the most expensive wood stove fan I tested.” —Katie Barton, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Flanagan wood stove fan at Amazon.

Runner up

Voda 4 Blades Wood Stove Fan

See It

What We Like

• Available in two finishes
• Quick to power on
• Thermal safety feature protects the fan’s motor

What We Don’t Like

• Doesn’t deliver enough airflow for large spaces

Specs 

• Blades: 4
• Operating temperature: 185 to 660 degrees Fahrenheit
• Material: Anodized aluminum
• Cubic feet per minute (CFM): 240

Our Ratings: Performance 4/5; Durability 4.5/5; Value 4/5

Powered entirely by heat, Voda’s four-bladed stove fan is durable and operates silently, making it one of the best ways to circulate air around the wood stove. It kicks on at temperatures as low as 185 degrees Fahrenheit and can withstand temperatures as high as 660 degrees Fahrenheit. 

The Voda comes in black and gold finishes to complement different stoves and surroundings. We tested the black version, which was attractive and felt quality-built. 

We used a stove thermometer during testing, and the Voda’s blades powered on when our stovetop’s temperature hit the low 100s Fahrenheit. The blades spun quicker as the stove heated up. This fan didn’t produce a lot of airflow, but enough that we could feel it from a few feet away. While it can help distribute air in rooms of all sizes, it’s best equipped to help warm a small room.

Get the Voda wood stove fan at Amazon or Walmart.

Best Bang for the Buck

Tomersun 3 Blades Heat-Powered Wood Stove Fan

See It

What We Like

• Budget-friendly price point
• Whisper-quiet noise level
• Compact design fits on smaller wood stoves

What We Don’t Like

• Produces limited airflow

Specs 

• Blades: 3
• Operating temperature: 176 to 653 degrees Fahrenheit
• Material: Anodized aluminum
• Cubic feet per minute (CFM): 170

Our Ratings: Performance 3.7/5; Durability 4/5; Value 4/5

With this pick, Tomersun offers an economical way to add a fan to a wood stove. As with other pricier stove fans, this one features whisper-quiet operation and is made from durable anodized aluminum. Its construction looked and felt similar to the other all-aluminum fans we tested, but at a lower cost.

The Tomersun has a built-in safety device that automatically elevates the front of the fan to protect the motor from damage if temperatures exceed 572 degrees Fahrenheit. Its operating range is 176 to 653 degrees Fahrenheit, although the blades began to spin when our stove’s surface temperature reached a little over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. 

The Tomersun stove fan produces an airflow of between 150 and 170 CFM, which is adequate for circulating air through small spaces. Like the other fans we tested, we didn’t feel the airflow more than a few feet away from the fan. However, this choice is a good value for those looking for a wood-burning stove fan for a small space.

What our tester says: “I appreciate this fan’s durable construction and attractive price point. It would be ideal for circulating airflow in a small space.” —Katie Barton, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Tomersun wood stove fan at Amazon.

More Great Options

The following wood stove fans have garnered hundreds (or thousands) of positive user reviews. Their standout features and high customer satisfaction ratings have earned them a spot on our list.

Best Compact

Galafire 4-Blade Heat-Powered Wood Stove Fan

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What We Like

• Compact size is ideal for smaller wood stoves 
• Starts working at a low temperature 
• Features an efficient four-blade design 

What We Don’t Like

• May not deliver adequate airflow

Specs 

• Blades: 4
• Operating temperature: 122 to 662 degrees Fahrenheit
• Material: Anodized aluminum
• Cubic feet per minute (CFM): 126

This small wood stove fan measures just over 7 inches tall, an ideal choice for more compact wood stoves. Its four-blade design makes it capable of pushing a lot of air. It also starts operating at the low temperature of just 122 degrees Fahrenheit, so it will start circulating air as the stove is just heating up. The Galafire also comes with a thermometer to help monitor the temperature of the wood stove.

Get the Galafire wood stove fan at Amazon.

Most Versatile

Cwlakon Mounting Wood Stove Fan

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What We Like

• Attaches to some portable gas-powered space heaters 
• Compact size is ideal for small wood stoves
• Suitable for outdoor use

What We Don’t Like

• Smaller size means less airflow produced

Specs 

• Blades: 4
• Operating temperature: Max of 644 degrees Fahrenheit
• Material: Anodized aluminum
• Cubic feet per minute (CFM): N/A

This versatile four-bladed fan can be used for more than just a wood stove. That’s because it comes equipped with a slot on its base that allows users to secure it to the top of some space heaters. With its durable anodized aluminum construction, it’s also tough enough to survive outdoors, and it can endure being lugged around. Since it’s more compact than most wood stove fans, it’s easy to take on the road for camping trips or for use with a smaller wood stove. 

Get the Cwlakon wood stove fan at Amazon.

Honorable Mention

Hanaoyo 6-Blade Wood Stove Fan

See It

What We Like

• Features 6 fan blades
• Includes a magnetic stove thermometer
• Quiet operation

What We Don’t Like

• Some user complain about lack of air movement

Specs 

• Blades: 6
• Operating temperature: 131 to 653 degrees Fahrenheit
• Material: Anodized aluminum
• Cubic feet per minute (CFM): N/A

This heat-powered stove fan kicks on when temperatures reach as low as 131 degrees Fahrenheit and continues to operate at temperatures as high as 653 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s made from lightweight anodized aluminum and features six blades for maximum airflow.

The Hanaoyo stove fan has built-in thermal protection. If the stove’s surface gets too hot, the base will lift, protecting the fan’s motor. It also comes with a magnetic wood stove thermometer. While many users praise this fan for circulating warm air from their stove, some complain that it’s not powerful enough for large spaces.

Get the Hanaoyo wood stove fan at Amazon.

Also Consider

Tsendi 4 Blades Silent Operation Wood Stove Fan

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What We Like

• Good build quality with an affordable price tag
• Begins working at a low temperature
• Features lightweight anodized aluminum blades

What We Don’t Like

• Only produces enough airflow to fill smaller rooms

Specs 

• Blades: 4
• Operating temperature: 122 to 500 degrees Fahrenheit
• Material: Anodized aluminum
• Cubic feet per minute (CFM): N/A

This wood stove fan is solidly built and produces good airflow, helping to distribute heat from a wood stove or pellet stove throughout the surrounding room. It’s made from durable anodized aluminum and has a low starting temperature of 122 degrees Fahrenheit, so it starts blowing air through the room while the stove is still heating up. Affordably priced, the Tsendi also comes with a stove thermometer that monitors the stove’s temperature. 

Get the Tsendi wood stove fan at Amazon.

ALSO TESTED

We also tested the Ecofan UltrAir Nickel Blade Wood Stove Fan. Unfortunately, even though this stove fan was the most expensive and aesthetically pleasing, its two-blade design produced noticeably less circulation than fans with four or five blades. We couldn’t feel any circulation from this fan unless we stood directly in front of it.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Chose and Tested the Best Wood Stove Fans

When selecting the best wood stove fans, we considered several factors. Since these fans are exposed to intense heat, we chose models made from durable, heat-resistant materials such as anodized aluminum. Other important features we looked for were safety mechanisms that protect the fan’s motor in case the stove exceeds the fan’s heat rating. Aesthetics were also a factor, given that wood or pellet stove fans are typically clearly visible. 

We tested four fans, letting them run on our wood stove for 3 weeks. We evaluated how well each fan could move air through the room from short and long distances. To verify that they worked within their operating temperature range, we monitored our stovetop’s temperature using a wood stove thermometer. We also inspected the construction and let the fans run non-stop for several days to evaluate durability. We used a standardized rubric to award each fan ratings based on performance, durability, and value and tallied those scores at the end of testing to determine which fans were the best.

What to Consider When Choosing a Wood Stove Fan

While performing research, we asked chimney expert Tim Smith of Actual Chimney Specialists a variety of questions to find out what factors are most important when shopping for one of these wood stove accessories. If you’re heating with a wood stove, here’s what you need to know about wood stove fans.

Blades

The number and design of the blades impact how well a wood-burning stove fan can distribute air throughout the room. Typically, fans with four blades do a better job of circulating air than fans with two or three blades.

But while fans with more blades are tempting, Smith points out that fans made with fewer blades and lightweight materials will last longer and spring faster. “A lightweight material such as aluminum would be best so the fan blades will spin quickly without too much stress on the motor,” he says. 

The blade design can also play a factor in how effectively the fan moves air. Some wood stove fans utilize curved or angled fan blades to blow air more efficiently.

CFM Rating 

A fan’s CFM rating measures how much air a fan can move per minute. This measurement is important because it indicates how well the wood stove fan can blow air through a room. That being said, while many manufacturers list the CFM ratings of their wood stove fans, they’re not always accurate. Most wood stove fan CFM ratings hover around 130 CFM, which is about enough to circulate warm air through about 400 square feet of space. Also, keep in mind that since wood stove fans have motors that use the stove’s heat for power, the speed will partially depend on the temperature of the stove. 

Operating Temperature

Smith says that when selecting a fan, it’s important to pay attention to the temperature range of the unit, including the minimum temperature that is required to start its motor and the maximum temperature it can endure without suffering damage. 

“Wood stove fans that are specific to the appliance usually have a temperature switch or a snap disk that senses a specific temperature before it will send power to the fan,” Smith says. “The temperature [the fan starts at] is usually between 180 and 220 degrees Fahrenheit.”

As the temperature of the stove increases, the fan will continue to speed up until it hits an optimal temperature, which is usually between 450 and 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Most wood stove fans have safety features that will raise the base of the fan off of the stove when the wood stove’s temperature exceeds 600 degrees Fahrenheit. This is done to prevent a fan’s motor from overheating. 

Since wood stove fans require a minimum level of heat to power on, they won’t work on electric fireplace heaters or standard built-in fireplaces.

Noise

Since wood stove fan motors are powered solely by heat from the stove, they tend to operate very quietly. Expect a wood stove fan to operate at decibel levels between 25 and 30, which is about the same noise level as a whisper. A fan’s build quality can also affect its noise level. Poorly-made wood stove fans may have loose parts that create rattling or clicking noises while the fan is operating. 

Materials 

Wood stove fans are usually made from anodized aluminum that can withstand temperatures of up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit. While virtually all wood stove fans are made from this material, more durably-built models use heavier-gauge aluminum than cheaper alternatives. 

The Advantages of Using a Wood Stove Fan

A good thermal fan for wood stove use can improve its ability to distribute heat, making it more efficient at heating a home. 

“The advantage of adding a wood stove fan is you will push more heat quicker and be able to heat a larger area in a much more efficient manner,” Smith says.

And since these fans use a motor powered by the heat of the stove, they don’t require electricity to function. Unlike fireplace insert blowers and other types of fans, wood stove fans make very little noise, so they don’t detract from the rustic appeal of a wood stove. 

• Improves stove efficiency by helping to distribute warm air
• Doesn’t require any electricity or a battery to operate
• Operates very quietly

Safety Tips for Using Wood Stove Fans

While a heat fan for wood stovetops can help make a stove more efficient, it can also be a safety hazard. First, when positioning the fan on the stove, make sure it has enough clearance to accommodate the spinning blades. Wood stove fans can exceed 600 degrees Fahrenheit. And because the spinning fan blades are exposed on most models, they can cause injury to anyone who comes into contact with them. As such, it’s important to keep children and pets away from the fan. To reposition the fan during use, be wary of the blade and wear a stove glove to avoid getting burned. Also, use the handle on the top of the fan to move it. 

• Make sure there is enough space around the fan to accommodate the blades
• Keep children and pets away from the fan
• Use an oven mitt and grab the fan’s handle to reposition it while it is in use

FAQs 

Still have questions about how wood stove fans work and whether they’re right for your home? Read on for answers to some of the most common queries about these devices, including how long they last and where to position the fan on the stove.

Meet the Tester

Katie Barton is a Bob Vila writer specializing in home-related topics. She has a wood stove in her garage, and a wood-burning fireplace insert in her home.

Additional research provided by Tony Carrick

The post This Simple Product Can Increase Your Wood Stove’s Efficiency appeared first on Bob Vila.

Radiators have been keeping homes warm for about 150 years. While the units in your home probably aren’t that old, they may well bear signs of age: rust, chips, or a color that doesn’t suit your décor.

A fresh coat of paint can turn back the clock on a hot-water or steam cast-iron radiator, whether or not the unit is still operational. paint even dress up a unit made of mild steel, which is steel with a small amount of carbon. (Naturally rust- and fade-resistant stainless steel or aluminum radiators, on the other hand, aren’t usually painted. Those metals are less likely to need restoration in the first place, and these radiators have a more rigid, less pliant surface that isn’t particularly receptive to sanding and painting.) As with any paint project, painting a radiator is all about proper preparation, quality materials, and good technique.

Will you paint an old iron radiator white so it matches your baseboard trim, or select a bright hue that makes the heater a focal point rather than an eyesore? Once you settle on a suitable color and follow this guide for how to paint a radiator, the unit will have a new hue in the space of a weekend. 

Note: The radiator will need to be turned off for the duration of this project, so midwinter is probably not the best time to undertake the project.

Step 1: Select primer and paint.

Though you can certainly go the can-and-paintbrush route, we find that spray paint and primer will reach the curves, nooks, and crannies of this fixture best. Use an oil-based primer and either an oil- or water-based spray paint for metal that is labeled for interior use. Depending on your radiator, look for the following attributes:

• If you are painting a radiator that is non-operational, both the primer and paint that you use should be rust resistant.
• If you are painting a radiator that still works and is used to heat the home, the primer and paint should be rust resistant and able to withstand the high temperatures that radiators generate. Rust-Oleum High Heat Spray Paint is a good option.

If you want your radiator to blend in with its surroundings, go for a shade that closely matches the color of the wall behind it or the trim beneath it; to make the radiator pop, choose a hue that contrasts with the wall.

Step 2: Turn off the radiator, and cover vents and valves.

If your radiator is non-operational, skip this step and move on to Step 3.

For an operational radiator, turn the control valve located near the base of the unit clockwise until it reaches the “off,” or fully closed position, and let the unit cool completely.

Use painter’s tape to cover the valves and vents on your unit:

• On hot-water radiators, tape off the control valve and the air bleeder valve (located near the top of the unit)
• On two-pipe steam radiators, cover the steam vent valve near the top of the unit
• On on-pipe steam radiators, cover the air vent on the side of the unit.

Paint can block vents and make valves difficult to turn, which is why you want to avoid painting them.

Step 3: Prep the work area.

Apply masking tape to the wall around the perimeter of the radiator and lay drop cloths on the floor below the unit—you’ll want to do so thoroughly to protect the surrounding areas from overspray. Open a window in the room to improve ventilation while painting, and wear gloves and a respirator.

Step 4: Sand the metal radiator.

Scrape a small, inconspicuous area on the radiator surface with a screwdriver blade and look for flaking to confirm whether or not it had been previously painted or varnished. If there’s no flaking, go over any pitting from heavy rust with coarse-grit sandpaper, such as 40- to 60-grit. Then sand all surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 80- to 120-grit) to remove light rust accumulations and achieve a smooth, paintable surface.

If you’re covering a radiator that was previously painted, first test the paint for lead with a lead paint test kit (available at home centers for $7 to $15). Paint on radiators in homes built pre-1978 are the most likely to contain lead. Caution: Never scrape, sand, or otherwise disturb the surface of a radiator coated in lead paint, as you risk releasing lead particles, which can adversely affect the central nervous and endocrine systems if inhaled or swallowed and can even be fatal with high levels of exposure. Wait for the results, then sand and/or strip away any cracking paint using one of these methods:

• If the test is negative, use a putty knife to scrape away cracked/chipping paint from any of the radiator surfaces. Then, sand the surface using the sanding technique recommended above.
• If the test is positive, have a professional refinisher remove the paint, or use an environmentally friendly paint stripper such as Citristrip to remove it. These products trap the lead in gel to keep lead particles from going airborne.

Step 5: Wipe away the dust.

Glide a tack cloth over the radiator surface to remove sanding dust. Then, wipe down the surface with a water-dampened cloth to remove remaining dirt and debris. Let the radiator air dry fully.

Tried-and-True Advice

“It’s amazing how a fresh coat of paint can improve the aesthetics of any old radiator. I find it’s best to use compressed air to remove dust after sanding. You can wipe it down but air really helps to prep the surface for paint. A shop vacuum will also assist in full removal of dust particles if needed.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 6: Spray a coat of primer.

Holding the can of primer upright and at a distance of 10 to 16 inches from the radiator, spray an even coat over all visible surfaces using a back-and-forth motion. Let the primer coat dry completely per the product instructions before you move on to paint.

Step 7: Paint the radiator.

Employing the same technique used for the primer, spray an even coat of the high-temperature metal spray paint over all visible surfaces of the radiator using a back-and-forth motion.

Let the first coat dry for 5 to 7 minutes (or according to the product instructions). Apply one or more coats to achieve the desired depth of color, allowing each coat to dry for 5 to 7 minutes before applying the next. Spraying the coats in relatively quick succession minimizes paint run-off of the previous coat. Let the final coat dry completely.

Step 8: Clean up the workspace.

Remove the painter’s tape from the wall and radiator valves, and discard the drop cloths. If the radiator is operational, turn the radiator control valve counterclockwise to the “on” or fully open position.

The post How to Paint a Radiator appeared first on Bob Vila.

A good fireplace grate is the unsung hero of any wood-burning fireplace. The best fireplace grates keep logs off of the floor of the hearth, which improves airflow and results in a fire that burns longer and hotter. Also, grates not only make a fireplace look better—they also keep logs in place, ensuring the fire stays in the fireplace.

While integral to an efficient fireplace, most grates are shockingly simple. Most are just cast iron or steel rods bent and welded together. However, it’s still important to find a quality grate. Whether you opt for a solid chimney grate, a cast-iron fireplace grate, or even a wood stove grate, with proper care a good fireplace grate can last a lifetime, or at the very least, decades. We rounded up a selection of the best grates available and tested them to find out which we could recommend. 

Our favorite was the Amagabeli Wrought-Iron Fireplace Log Grate, mostly because of its solid construction, ample clearance, and angled bars that hold logs in place perfectly. But we also tested several other grates that performed well, each offering distinct advantages over the others. If you’re looking to find information on the best fireplace grates available, this is the guide for you.

1. BEST OVERALL: Amagabeli Wrought-Iron Fireplace Log Grate
   ↓ Jump to Review
2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Pleasant Hearth Solid Steel Fireplace Grate
   ↓ Jump to Review
3. UPGRADE PICK: Grate Wall of Fire 21-Inch M-5 Fireplace Grate
   ↓ Jump to Review
4. BEST ROUND: Amagabeli Round Wrought-Iron Fire Grate
   ↓ Jump to Review
5. BEST LARGE: SteelFreak 36-Inch Heavy Duty Steel Fireplace Grate
   ↓ Jump to Review
6. BEST FOR OUTDOORS: InnFinest 23-Inch Fireplace Log Grate
   ↓ Jump to Review

Our Top Picks

Our list includes fireplace grates that are maneuverable, durable, and thoughtfully designed. These models suit a broad range of fireplace sizes to make any fireplace ready for chilly months. 

Best Overall

Amagabeli Wrought-Iron Fireplace Log Grate

See It

What We Like

• Solid, heavy-duty construction
• All sizes offer ample clearance beneath the crossbar
• Angled bars hold logs firmly in place

What We Don’t Like

• Heavy build makes transporting it difficult

Specs

• Material Wrought iron
• Available widths 17, 21, 24, and 30 inches
• Weight 20 pounds (24-inch model)

Our Ratings: Construction 5/5; Efficiency 5/5; Overall Look 5/5; Price 4/5 

With a simple design and a durable wrought-iron construction, this V-shaped grate from Amagabeli has six solid steel bars and is a good choice for a grate for a fireplace. Weighing a little more than 20 pounds, the grate that we tested measures 24 inches long by 12.5 inches wide by 7.5 inches high, making it fit most hearths. It also comes in 17-inch and 30-inch options for smaller or larger fireplaces. The angled bars prevent the logs from rolling off, directing them instead toward the center of the grate to feed the fire. The grate’s 4-inch legs provide plenty of air circulation to promote a good burn. An enamel coating on this Amagabeli fireplace grate protects the bars from corrosion, making it suitable for outdoor use, too.

We tested this grate in a number of ways. After building and lighting the fire, we observed how long the fire burned, how much the burning logs moved (if at all), and how the grate looked after the fire. The Amagabeli grate performed excellently, both in terms of how long it kept the fire burning and how little the logs moved while the fire burned. And after the fire died down and we wiped down the soot a little, the enamel on the grate also looked great.

What our tester says: “I loved the look and how easy it was to load the Amagabeli Fireplace grate. For being so simple, I was surprised how efficient it was at keeping the fire burning.” —Mike Larson, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Amagabeli wrought-iron fireplace grate at Amazon.

Best Bang for the Buck

Pleasant Hearth Solid Steel Fireplace Grate

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What We Like

• One of the lighter grates we tested
• Helped maintain the second-hottest fire
• Angled rods kept logs mostly in place

What We Don’t Like

• Ember retainer can get clogged, restricting airflow

Specs

• Material Steel
• Available widths 18, 21, 24, 30, and 36 inches (we tested the 24-inch model)
• Weight 16 pounds

Our Ratings: Construction 4/5; Efficiency 4/5; Overall Look 4/5; Price 4/5 

Considering its low price, the Pleasant Hearth fireplace grate is one of the better buys we found. However, it does have its drawbacks.The Pleasant Hearth grate has a thinner construction than others we tested, using .5-inch bars instead of larger .75-inch bars, and the difference in the overall look is noticeable. However, the smaller bars do make for a lighter, more easily transportable final product. It’s a nice choice for a small fireplace grate.

The Pleasant Hearth grate holds wood well and keeps a hot fire. We did notice some log movement during our testing; While none of the logs fell completely off of the grate, there was some movement. If logs were piled too high or were unstable, there could potentially be a problem. Another drawback was the ember retainer at the bottom. This device successfully retained coals and prevented them from falling to the hearth floor, but this inadvertently choked the airflow, causing the fire to burn out faster than it might have otherwise. Despite these issues, the Pleasant Hearth grate is a really solid choice for the money.

Get the Pleasant Hearth fireplace grate at Amazon, Lowe’s (30-inch only), Ace Hardware (21-inch only), or The Home Depot.

Upgrade Pick

Grate Wall of Fire 21-Inch M-5 Fireplace Grate

See It

What We Like

• Highly efficient; keeps fire burning for long periods
• Has a unique, appealing design
• Can handle more logs than traditionally shaped grates

What We Don’t Like

• Unique benefits come at a higher cost

Specs

• Material Steel alloy
• Available widths 21 inches
• Weight 30 pounds

Our Ratings: Construction 5/5; Efficiency 5/5; Overall Look 5/5; Price 3/5 

Offering a different take on the fireplace grate, this vertical fireplace grate from Grate Wall of Fire features the unique design of most self-feeding fireplace grates. The grate fits at the back of the hearth and pins a stack of logs between it and the fireplace’s back wall, making it an ideal firewood grate. This configuration forces the logs at the top of the stack to fall into the flames as the logs at the bottom burn and crumble.

Because of this setup, we discovered when testing that we could fit a lot more wood in a fire with this grate than any other. Because of its ability to hold the most fuel, the Grate Wall had the longest burning time of any other grate we tested. Overall, this is a very heavy-duty fireplace grate. 

In addition to eliminating the need for any tending, this vertical fireplace configuration burns more efficiently, creating more heat and leaving fewer unburned pieces. Since the grate forces that logs to be positioned at the back of wood-burning fireplaces, there’s less opportunity for smoke to escape into the room. It can also act as a fireplace rack for wood. This vertical fireplace grate doesn’t resemble a standard fireplace grate, so those who prefer a classic fireplace look may not like it. Another downside is the price. 

What our tester says: “Though this grate is expensive, its high-quality construction means that a customer would likely only ever have to buy it once. Still, it’s pricey for sure.”—Mike Larson, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Grate Wall of Fire fireplace grate at Amazon or Grate Wall of Fire.

Best Round

Amagabeli Round Wrought-Iron Fire Grate

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What We Like

• Can also be used outside in round firepits
• Rods and legs are strong, durable
• 3.5-inch clearance promotes plenty of airflow

What We Don’t Like

• Can sink into ground without solid support beneath

Specs

• Material Wrought iron and steel
• Available widths 12, 16, 20, 24, 27, 32, 36, and 40 inches
• Clearance 3.3 inches

Our Ratings: Construction 4/5; Efficiency 4/5; Overall Look 4/5; Price 4/5 

This round fireplace grate from Amagabeli offers a different take on the typical rectangular fireplace grate. The grate is shaped like a wheel, and its 12 metal 0.7-inch-thick bars look like spokes extending from the center of the grate. The bars are angled upward to contain burning logs, preventing them from rolling off. This design makes it easy to start a fire that produces an ample amount of heat.

Four large legs elevate the grate 3.3 inches off the ground, allowing for plenty of airflow under the burning logs. Because its steel bars are protected by weather-resistant enamel paint, it works great for outdoor fire pits.

We tested this grate outside and were thrilled with the results. The grate holds wood off the ground and keeps the air flowing to create a hot fire that lasts hours. The only thing we didn’t like was that when loaded with wood, the weight caused the grate to sink into the ground. Overall, it’s a nice choice for an outdoor fireplace grate.

Get the Amagabeli round fireplace grate at Amazon or Amagabeli.

More Great Options

We got to test a few of the best fireplace grates, but there are several others on the market that might meet your needs. Here are a few others that we’ve come across that have the components we expect to find in quality products, and based on their great reviews, we hope to test them ourselves someday.

Best Large

SteelFreak 36-Inch Heavy Duty Steel Fireplace Grate

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What We Like

• Wide design allows for maximum capacity of logs
• Solid .375-inch bars and tempered construction
• 6.5-inch height allows for maximum air circulation
• Wide size variety offered to fit any hearth

What We Don’t Like

• Very pricey compared to similar fireplace grates
• Some users report limited longevity

Specs

• Material Steel
• Available widths 21, 24, 27, 30, and 33 inches
• Weight 23 pounds

Whether it’s Christmas, a chilly night, or a time of celebration, this SteelFreak fireplace grate is a great choice for anyone looking to burn wood in a hearth. Measuring 36 inches in length, this heavy-duty all-steel grate is extra wide and can hold several longer fireplace logs, providing maximum capacity inside a fireplace or a larger fire. 

Made in the United States, this SteelFreak fireplace grate is constructed with locally sourced materials and has a tempered design to avoid warping and wear and tear over time. Plus, the .375-inch-thick bars provide added durability, providing owners a lifelong fireplace grate for open wood-burning fireplaces.

Get the SteelFreak fireplace grate at Amazon or SteelFreak.

Best for Outdoors

InnFinest 23-Inch Fireplace Log Grate

See It

What We Like

• Hexagonal design is suitable for holding several logs
• Angled bars prevent logs from falling out
• Tall construction allows for maximum airflow
• Comes fully assembled and ready to use

What We Don’t Like

• Heavier and pricier than other fireplace grates

Specs

• Material Solid steel
• Available widths 18 inches, 23 inches
• Weight 22 pounds

Steel bars with a hexagonal design and large size make this fireplace grate from InnFinest work well for outdoor fireplaces. It consists of eight 0.75-inch-thick bars in a V formation to prevent logs and debris from falling out of the grates. At 23 inches long by 15 inches wide, it can support a large load of logs, such as those typically found in an outdoor fireplace.

Each of these durable grate’s angled bars ensures the wood stays in the fireplace while also helping to keep the fire going by directing logs toward the center. A little more than 8.5 inches tall, it has plenty of airflow to promote a good burn. Plus, this model comes fully assembled and ready to use. 

Get the InnFinest fireplace grate at Amazon.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Chose and Tested the Best Fireplace Grates

We considered several factors when choosing the best fireplace grates, including quality of construction, design, weight, and size. We chose only grates constructed from a single piece of forged iron or steel. With regard to design, we featured grates with at least 3 inches of clearance from the hearth floor to ensure ample airflow. We also favored grates with curved tines that secured the logs while also helping feed them to the flames. 

We tested the grates by building fires on them and burning. After we loaded them to capacity with logs and lit them, we timed how long it was until the fire burned out completely. We also used a high-temperature digital thermometer to test how hot the fires burned. Our final test included doing a visual inspection of the grate after the fire burned and the grate had cooled.

What to Consider When Choosing a Fireplace Grate

Before buying a fireplace grate, shoppers will want to understand the difference between each type and learn how size, shape, and material affect performance. All of these factors play an important role in selecting the best fireplace grate for a home. Here is a closer look at all of these factors and features along with other important characteristics to help shoppers find the right fireplace grates.

Types of Fireplace Grates

There are three types of fireplace grates: bar, basket, and vertical. Bar varieties have parallel steel bars that are welded to four legs and elevate the logs a few inches off of the hearth. Basket fireplace grates are typically made from a single piece of cast iron. While they’re typically more expensive, they can also hold much more wood securely. Vertical fireplace grates hold a bundle of logs in a 90-degree angle, pinning them against the rear of the hearth and dropping a fresh one down onto the embers as older ones burn, limiting the amount of smoke that can escape.

Size

A fireplace grate must fit inside the firebox of the fireplace. While a grate that’s too large won’t fit, a grate that’s too small won’t be able to hold enough logs to maximize the fireplace’s potential.

Fireboxes don’t come in standard sizes, so measure the firebox of a fireplace and pay attention to the dimensions of the grate when shopping. You’ll want to measure the height, width, and depth of the firebox to ensure a proper fit. 

You should also measure the width in both the front and the back, as fireplaces typically taper from the front of the firebox to the back. A fireplace log grate shouldn’t fit in the box like a glove; instead, it needs about 3 inches of clearance between it and the fireplace on all sides.

Shape

Most fireplace grates have bars that curve upward on the front and back. This curved design is intentional, and it serves two purposes: It prevents logs from rolling off while also directing unburned ones toward the embers in the middle of the grate. As the logs burn in the fireplace, gravity guides them to the middle of the hearth, helping them burn more efficiently without the need to push the logs back into place with a poker. Most fireplace grates also taper from the front to the back to match the typical shape of a hearth for a better fit.

Material

Steel and cast-iron grates are suitable options for a fireplace. Cast-iron grates are typically made from one solid piece of metal. By contrast, steel-bar grates are usually made from multiple pieces of extruded square tubes that are welded together.

Because of their single-piece construction, cast-iron grates are more durable than steel varieties, and they have excellent heat-retention properties. Cast-iron fireplace grates are also considerably heavier and more expensive than steel fireplace grates. Steel fireplace grates are cheaper but won’t last as long. Some models have an enamel coating that makes them suitable for use in outdoor fireplaces and fire pits.

Legs and Bars

Structurally, fireplace grates consist of bars that cradle the logs and legs that support the bars, elevating them off the base of the hearth. Most grates consist of six or seven bars. The more bars, the more securely the fireplace grate can support the wood. These bars are typically curved to keep logs at the center of the grate while also preventing them from shifting and rolling out of the hearth. Most fireplace grates have four legs to support the bars. The legs elevate the logs about 3 to 4 inches off the floor of the hearth, allowing for ventilation, which promotes a good burn. 

Mesh Bottom

Some fireplace grates have a steel mesh or grille-like bottom. This feature prevents small pieces of burning wood from falling through the grate and landing on the hearth. Because the mesh catches much of the ash the fire produces, it makes the fireplace grate much easier to clean.

Fireplace grates that have a mesh bottom help keep a fire together, promoting a more robust, hotter burn. How the mesh is patterned typically depends on the metal used (typically steel or cast-iron varieties) to make the fireplace grate and whether the grate itself will be used to burn coal or wood.

The Advantages of Owning a Fireplace Grate

A fireplace grate for a wood-burning fireplace offers several advantages. Airflow is key to achieving a good burn in a wood-burning fireplace. Grates facilitate airflow by raising the wood off the hearth by 3 to 4 inches, allowing oxygen to circulate below the logs. 

Designed to endure for many years, lifetime fireplace grates reduce the amount of tending needed to keep the fire burning while also making it safer. The curved tines of a grate push the logs toward the burning embers, so the user doesn’t have to do it manually. The bars also help contain shifting logs, reducing the risk that a burning log can roll into the room. 

• Grates create airflow to promote an efficient burn.
• Grates self-feed the fire, reducing the need for tending.
• Grates hold the logs in place, reducing the risk of a fire hazard.

Tips for Buying and Using Fireplace Grates

A fireplace log grate isn’t simply about improving the aesthetics and performance of a fireplace; it’s also about safety. Fireplace grates help keep the logs and the fire contained, reducing the chances that an ember or burning log can escape the firebox. A fireplace grate should fit the firebox well and have about 3 inches of buffer on all sides.

Fireplace grates must be moved periodically to sweep up the ash that accumulates underneath. Shoppers should purchase a grate that’s light enough to lift and maneuver in and out of the hearth’s firebox. 

To load a fireplace grate properly, place two timbers on the grate followed by tinder and kindling. Additional logs can then be placed on top of the tinder and kindling. A fireplace grate should never be overloaded, as too much wood could cause logs to roll off and into the room.

• Purchase a fireplace grate that fits the hearth. 
• Make sure the fireplace grate is light enough to move for cleanup. 
• Load the grate properly.

FAQs

Our guide tried to address every question or concern shoppers may have about buying the best fireplace grate. Often, some shoppers may still be left wondering whether a cast-iron grate is better than a steel one, or they may have additional maintenance-related questions. Here are answers to the most common questions about fireplace grates.pers may have about buying the best fireplace grate. Often, some shoppers may still be left wondering whether a cast-iron grate is better than a steel one, or they may have additional maintenance-related questions. Here are answers to the most common questions about fireplace grates.

Meet the Tester

Mike Larson is a professional journalist and DIYer in Pittsburgh. With three fireplaces in his 100-year-old house, fireplace grates are often in use. As a product tester, he likes to use a method and criteria that reveal the value of the product as a whole in a way that helps other DIYers and craftspeople.

Additional research provided by Tony Carrick.

The post Increase Your Fireplace’s Efficiency With This Simple Upgrade appeared first on Bob Vila.

The winter months are tough for anyone who doesn’t enjoy the cold; short days and bitter temperatures don’t exactly make for paradise. But for those stuck inside—or worse, outside shoveling—having the right supplies on hand can make these days bearable, or even enjoyable. From conquering the snow and ice to staying warm and cozy, here are the tools to survive winter’s blast.

1. Snow Joe Shovelution Snow Shovel

Shoveling snow is never a fun chore, but it can be a little easier with the Snow Joe Shovelution Snow Shovel. This snow shovel is our top pick tested for our best snow shovel guide, mainly due to its ergonomic design. It’s lightweight with an integrated spring-assisted lifting handle for moving those heavy scoops of snow. 

What our tester says: “During testing, we didn’t want to like the Snow Joe. The additional lift-assist handle seemed like a gimmick, but it required much less bending over compared to a traditional shovel and plenty of leverage for scooping.” — Zach Lazzari, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Snow Joe Shovelution Snow Shovel at Amazon for $40.09

2. Greenworks 80V 12″ Cordless Battery Snow Shovel

If a snow shovel doesn’t quite cut it for the amount of snow, the Greenworks 80V 12″ Cordless Battery Snow Shovel is the next level up. This electric snow shovel tosses snow 20 feet away from its path with minimal effort. It was our top pick for the best electric snow shovel because of its ample 45-minute run time and quick 30-minute charge time. That gives plenty of time to clear walkways, and if the battery runs out, there’s only a short wait for it to recharge.

What our tester says: “Overall, this is a fantastic, well-built electric snow shovel. There are a couple of cheaper models that perform nearly as well, but anyone who wants top-notch power and battery life might want to pay just a little more for the Greenworks 80V.” —Zach Lazzari, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Greenworks 80V 12″ Cordless Battery Snow Shovel at Amazon for $249.99

3. Toro Power Max e24 60V Two-Stage Snow Blower

Bring in the big guns with an electric snow blower. The Toro Power Max e24 60V Two-Stage Snow Blower is our top pick tested for our best electric snow blower guide. This is a heavy-duty blower with a durable steel construction that we recommend for all terrains; it’s sturdy enough to perform for many years in very snowy conditions. 

What our tester says: “We found this unit’s overall power on par with gas models, and it held up well against a top-tier machine we also own in terms of traction and performance.” —Zach Lazzari, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Toro Power Max e24 60V Two-Stage Snow Blower at Tractor Supply Co for $1,599.99

4. Best Home Fashion Wide Basic Thermal Blackout Curtain

Thermal blackout curtains are a small investment that can reduce the effects of poorly-insulated windows and make a room feel warmer through the winter. As our top pick for the best thermal curtains, the Best Home Fashion Wide Basic Thermal Blackout Curtain insulates well, and just as important, looks nice too. The curtains block light and are available in several sizes and colors. 

Get the Best Home Fashion Wide Basic Thermal Blackout Curtain at Amazon for $34.99

5. Everlasting Comfort Luxury Faux Fur Throw Blanket 

A cozy blanket is a must-have to get through the winter. We tested the Everlasting Comfort Luxury Faux Fur Throw Blanket for our best blanket guide, and we loved that it offered comfortable warmth without being too heavy. It drapes beautifully, comes in various appealing colors, and is machine-washable for easy cleaning. 

What our tester says: “The Everlasting Comfort faux fur throw rose to the top for its softness and the beautiful drape of the fabric. I couldn’t stop running my hand over the fabric because it felt wonderful, and this made me want to use it all the time.” —Stacey L. Nash, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Everlasting Comfort Luxury Faux Fur Throw Blanket at Amazon for $21.99

6. Beloskida Car Emergency Roadside Tool Kit

A car emergency kit is a prudent investment at any time of year, but it comes in particularly handy in winter. Stay safe on the roads with this comprehensive kit, which includes a small shovel, tow rope, and emergency blanket that are extra useful to have in the winter. It also comes with a 500-Amp jumper cable, a hand crank light, a first aid kit, and more, so drivers are ready for any emergency. 

Get the Beloskida Car Emergency Roadside Tool Kit at Amazon for $48.99

7. JOJOMARK Tire Traction Mat

All drivers should know how to get their car unstuck from the snow. First, dig as much slush and snow out from under the tires as possible, then get back in the car, turn the wheel slightly, and slowly accelerate or reverse. If there’s nothing for the tires to gain traction against, though, drivers are fighting a losing battle. Add traction by wedging these JOJOMARK Tire Traction Mats between the edge of the tires and the slippery substrate to get back on the road quickly and safely. 

Get the JOJOMARK Tire Traction Mat at Amazon for $69.99

8. Snow Joe Ice & Snow Melt

It’s no surprise that traditional ice melt is an imperfect solution. Sure, it melts snow and ice on driveways and walkways, but its caustic formula also damages shoes, boots, landscaping—even pets’ paws. Snow Joe’s natural alternative ice melt uses different ingredients that are effective against snow and ice while protecting shoes and Fido’s paws. It’s our budget-friendly pick for the best ice melt since it’s safe but still effective. 

What our tester says: “We really loved this ice melt’s shaker container for easy spreading. The larger granules also minimized our need to reapply.” —Zach Lazzari, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Snow Joe Ice & Snow Melt at Amazon for $25.99

9. Snow Joe 18″ Telescoping Snow Broom & Ice Scraper

Simple but effective, the Snow Joe 18″ Telescoping Snow Broom & Ice Scraper is an ideal car tool for frigid and snowy winters. This two-in-one extendable windshield ice scraper and snow broom has the necessary parts to clear snow and ice from the car. It’s fairly compact, very lightweight, and has a non-abrasive foam head that won’t damage glass or paint. 

What our tester says: Zach Lazzari, a Bob Vila staff writer and product tester, reviewed a version of this product. “I’ve used the scraper end daily for several weeks without issue,” he noted. “It’s nothing fancy, but it works reliably and as intended. I was initially skeptical about the foam head, but it’s very rigid, and I love not worrying about scratching the car.”

Get the Snow Joe 18″ Telescoping Snow Broom & Ice Scraper at Amazon for $29.99

10. Scotts Elite Spreader 

Quickly spread salt across large surfaces with the Scotts Elite Spreader. This multi-use wheeled push spreader holds enough salt (or fertilizer or grass seed in the warmer seasons) to cover up to 20,000 square feet with a 6-foot spread width. It makes applying salt much less tedious for those with a lot of area to cover, and provides a more even application with less waste than hand-spreading. 

What our tester says: “If I could only choose one salt and fertilizer spreader, this would be it. It holds a ton of product, moves easily over uneven terrain, and makes quick work of large areas.” —Michelle Larson, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Scotts Elite Spreader at Amazon for $149.99

11. Dreo Solaris H3 Slim Space Heater

Compact, quiet, and very effective, the Dreo Solaris H3 Slim Space Heater came out on top during our testing for the best electric heater. It’s slim and lightweight, so it’s easy to move around and place in any room. Even better, we found it warmed up spaces even larger than its recommended coverage area of 200 square feet. 

What our tester says: “This is my favorite electric heater of all the options I tested. I keep it by my desk for chilly mornings, and it warms my toes without taking up much space. Though I love its tall and narrow design, I’m glad it shuts off when it tips over. My dogs seem to have a special ability to run right into it when they come running in to say hi.” —Michelle Larson, Product Reviews tester and writer 

Get the Dreo Solaris H3 Slim Space Heater at Amazon for $74.99

12. Sunbeam Royal Ultra Fleece Heated Electric Blanket

The Sunbeam Royal Ultra Fleece Heated Electric Blanket is weighty and thick. Choose from one of its 12 heat settings and it feels like a big, warm hug on a cold winter’s day. Ideal for layering on a bed, it’s our top pick for the best electric blanket with even heating and a long 12-hour timer to get cold sleepers through the night. 

Get the Sunbeam Royal Ultra Fleece Heated Electric Blanket at Amazon for $78.54

13. Duraflame Freestanding Electric Fireplace Stove Heater

The Duraflame Freestanding Electric Fireplace Stove Heater provides ambiance as well as heat. This infrared fireplace looks like a wood stove but is much easier to use: It’s electric, so it doesn’t create any smoke, but it does create lots of heat to warm spaces up to 1,000 square feet. The faux 3D flame effect looks charming and we appreciate that the infrared heating doesn’t dry out the air in the room. 

Get the Duraflame Freestanding Electric Fireplace Stove Heater at Amazon for $249.99

14. Levoit Classic Ultrasonic Smart Humidifier

For those who feel particularly parched in the winter or suffer from sinus or lung problems due to dry air, a humidifier can be a saving grace. The best room humidifier chosen in our testing is the Levoit Classic Ultrasonic Smart Humidifier. It has great features at a reasonable price, with a 6-liter water tank providing up to 60 hours of run time, four mist levels, and smart controls so users can set schedules and timers. 

Get the Levoit Classic Ultrasonic Smart Humidifier at Amazon for $79.99

15. Mr. Heater Portable Heater

Don’t let the cold prevent DIY projects out in the workshop. This portable propane heater from Mr. Heater warms up to 225 square feet on one of two settings using the small propane tanks often used for camping and cookouts (or up to 40-pound tanks with the right hose to connect them). A few hours with this radiant heater will keep the shop toasty enough to complete whatever task couldn’t wait for a warm day. 

What our tester says: “This powerful little heater is dependable and burns clean—I keep one in my mobile shop during cold weather to take the chill off and provide a quick warm-up at a moment’s notice.” —Glenda Taylor, Product Reviews tester and writer 

Get the Mr. Heater Portable Heater at Amazon for $83.99

16. Resideo Wi-Fi Water Leak and Freeze Detector

Indoor pipes can freeze and burst during cold snaps, and while there’s not always a way to prevent that from happening, acting fast when a pipe does burst can mitigate the amount of damage caused by the water. Place the Resideo Wi-Fi Water Leak and Freeze Detector near the areas most likely to be affected, such as the water heater or a sink located on an exterior wall, and this gadget warns users of dangerously low temperatures that might cause those pipes to freeze via a smartphone app. Users can then take action before disaster strikes by adjusting the heat accordingly, but if it’s too late, the system’s cable will detect and alert users to the presence of water so they can address it before the damage spreads too far.

Get the Resideo Wi-Fi Water Leak and Freeze Detector at Amazon for $109.94

17. Decorealm Heavy-Duty Door Draft Stopper and Blocker

As one of the best door draft stoppers we tested, we like that the Decorealm Heavy-Duty Door Draft Stopper and Blocker can work for just about any home. It’s a freestanding stopper and doesn’t need to be attached to the door, so it’s damage-free and renter-friendly. It’s heavy-duty, filled with ceramic beads that kept it in place better than some other products we tested. The herringbone-pattern fabric is also attractive so this draft stopper isn’t an eyesore. 

Get the Decorealm Heavy-Duty Door Draft Stopper and Blocker at Amazon for $46.90

18. FosPower Emergency Weather Radio

It’s never a good time to lose electricity. It’s especially bad in the winter, at least in those parts of the country where temperatures drop below freezing. To be prepared for anything and everything, pick up an emergency radio. The FosPower Emergency Weather Radio tunes in to three bands—AM, FM, and NOAA VHF—and its built-in LED light and phone charger make it a multipurpose, there-when-you-need-it lifesaver for indoors or out.

Get the FosPower Emergency Weather Radio at Amazon for $34.99

19. Garage Insulation

The Reach Barrier 3009 uses reflective aluminum on the front and back, with a laminated bubble layer sandwiched between the layers to create an effective boundary between the garage and the extreme temperature outdoors in both winter and summer. The kit comes with eight precut panels that measure 4 feet long by 2 feet wide—a size suitable for most standard single-car garage doors. When we installed ours, we noticed an immediate decline in the sound transfer through the door, and the temperature measurements on the insulated side were notably different than on the uninsulated side.

What our tester says: Some garage door insulation kits can be a hassle to install, but this one makes installation easy. “All that’s required is to clean the door, attach the adhesive squares, and stick the panels in place. During testing, I found that the Reach Barrier was as easy to install as claimed: I simply placed a few of the adhesive squares along the perimeter of each section and pressed the insulation into place.” —Tom Scalisi, contributing Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Reach Barrier garage door insulation kit at Amazon.

20. 3M Window Insulation

Windows are one of the most common spots for energy loss, but a thin layer of plastic can offer a fair amount of protection. This 3M insulator kit comes with enough film to cover up to five windows measuring 5 feet long by 3 feet wide. This relatively thick film provides enhanced insulation thanks to its thickness of 0.75 mils (a unit of measurement equal to a thousandth of an inch). The film comes in one cut-to-fit sheet that measures 17.5 feet long by 5.16 feet wide. This kit also comes with a 27.7-yard roll of double-sided tape to facilitate installation and ensure it stays in place all season.

What our tester says: “This was my favorite [window insulation] kit to install… It kit allowed me to reposition the plastic a few times before pressing it down and heating it. Also, the kit does cover a lot of square footage, but the ends of the sheet can be tough, so it’s important to take your time. After I finished installing the kit, removing wrinkles was extremely easy. This kit provided the best results alongside the other 3M products that use the same plastic.” —Tom Scalisi, contributing Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the 3M indoor window insulation kit at Amazon.

The post The 20 Best Products for Surviving Winter appeared first on Bob Vila.

Breathing easy at home should be simple enough. Unfortunately, some gases, such as radon and carbon monoxide, are colorless and odorless but also hazardous if inhaled. The good news is that indoor air quality monitors may detect such gases in the home as well as identify additional pollutants, including volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and airborne particulate matter like dust and pollen. These home devices can be a first alert to safety. They may let you know when to leave an area where the air is unsafe to breathe or simply start you on a path to removing pollutants from the air, thereby avoiding or alleviating health problems. Keep in mind, however, that not all air quality monitors detect all harmful pollutants.

Concerned about the dangers of hidden pollutants lingering in the air of typical homes, we decided to test a number of today’s most popular air quality monitors. We began by extensively researching more than 40 air quality monitors to narrow the field and then selected a range of models to test. (Spoiler: Not all of the air quality monitors we tested earned a spot on this lineup.)

It’s easy to take steps to improve the air quality in your home with an air quality monitor. The best air quality monitor will depend on which pollutants you want to keep track of and whether you prefer a basic or tech-forward model. Our favorite is the Airthings 4200 House Kit Air Quality Monitor. It monitors total VOCs (TVOCs), radon, temperature, humidity, mold risk, and outdoor pollen levels. It also comes with smart-home capability and easy-to-use air quality indicators, and it’s suitable for multi-room usage.

Ahead, find out about what the devices can do and see how the models listed below fared in our hands-on testing to help you choose the best air quality monitor for your home.

1. BEST OVERALL: Airthings 4200 House Kit Air Quality Monitor
2. RUNNER-UP: Temtop M10 Air Quality Monitor
3. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Airthings 292 Wave Mini Indoor Air Quality Monitor 
4. MOST HIGH-TECH: Airthings 2950 Wave Plus Radon & Air Quality Monitor
5. MOST COMPREHENSIVE: uHoo Smart Indoor Air Quality Monitor 
6. BEST FOR ALLERGIES: IQAir AirVisual Pro Indoor Air Quality Monitor
7. BEST PORTABLE: Temtop P600 Air Quality Monitor
8. BEST FOR BEDROOMS: Amazon Smart Air Quality Monitor

Product Comparison

	Monitors	Smart-Home Integration	Number of Rooms
Airthings 4200 House Kit Air Quality Monitor	Total VOCs (TVOCs), radon, temperature, humidity, mold risk, outdoor pollen levels		Multiroom coverage (1 monitor per room)
Temtop M10 Air Quality Monitor	PM2.5, TVOCs, formaldehyde, Air Quality Index (AQI)		Single-room coverage
Airthings 292 Wave Mini Indoor Air Quality Monitor	TVOCs, temperature, humidity, outdoor pollen levels		Single-room coverage
Airthings 2950 Wave Plus Radon & Air Quality Monitor	TVOCs, radon, carbon dioxide, temperature, humidity, outdoor pollen	(via IFTTT)	Single-room coverage
uHoo Smart Indoor Air Quality Monitor	TVOCs, ozone, particulate matter, carbon monoxide, nitrogen dioxide, carbon dioxide, plus temp and humidity		Single
IQAir AirVisual Pro Indoor Air Quality Monitor	PM1, PM2.5 PM10, CO2, AQI, temperature, humidity		Single-room coverage
Temtop P600 Air Quality Monitor	PM2.5, PM10		Single
Amazon Smart Air Quality Monitor	PM2.5, CO, TVOCs, humidity, temperature		Single

Our Top Picks

When it comes to air quality monitors, accuracy is essential. While we didn’t have access to a laboratory for testing, we could offer a measure of control by testing all the monitors under similar situations to see if the readings would correspond when compared to one another. The following monitors all detected the presence of pollutants in our hands-on tests, and we would not hesitate to recommend any of them to help our readers choose a product to detect airborne pollutants in the home.

Best Overall

Airthings 4200 House Kit Air Quality Monitor

See It

What We Like

• Offers both Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity
• Readings were consistent
• Colored lights indicate air quality

What We Don’t Like

• No carbon monoxide or particulate matter detection
• Colored indicator lights don’t stay on full-time

Product Specs

• Monitors: Total VOCs (TVOCs), radon, temperature, humidity, mold risk, outdoor pollen levels
• Smart-home integration: Yes
• Number of rooms: Multiroom coverage (1 monitor per room)

The Airthings 4200 House Kit offers a fairly complete way to keep track of potential problems in the household air. It includes the Airthings Wave 2nd Generation, the Wave Mini, and the Airthings Hub. Prior to testing, we downloaded the Airthings app to our smartphone and followed the steps to set up the monitors via Bluetooth. That was simple; the app detected and automatically synced with the monitors.

We decided to test the Airthings Wave 2nd Generation radon detector in a friend’s home, where radon was an issue. We placed the detector in the friend’s basement and left it there for a full week. The monitor showed a radon reading of 3.7 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) when we retrieved it. This is just below level 4, where the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends radon mitigation measures. This was also within 0.2 of a point from our friend’s radon monitor. We were pleased with the accuracy.

At home, we easily connected the Wave Hub to sync the Wave Mini with our Wi-Fi network. Then we used voice commands, such as “Alexa, open Airthings,” to hear an air quality report on our Alexa Echo Dot.

The Wave Mini is made to detect TVOCs and mold risk. The mold risk detector factors in room temperature and humidity levels over time and uses color-coded lights to indicate whether there is a low, medium, or high risk of mold development.

It also detects and reports outdoor pollen levels drawn from local weather reports. We poured a small amount of oil-based wood stain into a dish and put it in our test box with the Wave Mini and other monitors we were testing. We closed the lid of the box and gave the fumes several hours to infiltrate the air.

The monitors in this series use the word “wave” because they flash a colored light—green, yellow, or red—when someone waves a hand in front of them. When we opened the box and passed our hand in front of the Wave Mini, the light flashed bright red—a warning that the air quality wasn’t safe. We then checked the app on our smartphone and sure enough, the app showed high TVOC levels.

The Wave Mini also registers temperature and humidity. Both of those readings were within 2 degrees of the other monitors that earned a spot on this lineup, so we deemed those functions to be accurate.

We liked the Airthings House Kit but wished the monitors would have displayed the green, yellow, or red lights full-time rather than only when we waved our hand in front of them. We found the Airthings monitors to be easy to set up, and they offered fairly accurate readings. Still, they don’t test for either carbon monoxide or particulate matter, so if such detection is important, a different monitor may be a better choice.

Get the Airthings 4200 air quality monitor at Amazon, The Home Depot, or Airthings.

Runner-Up

Temtop M10 Air Quality Monitor

See It

What We Like

• LED display with color-coded light indication
• Detects formaldehyde levels, VOCs, and particulate matter
• The screen is large and bright

What We Don’t Like

• No carbon monoxide or radon detection
• Light is difficult to see from a distance
• Does not sync with Bluetooth or Wi-Fi

Product Specs 

• Monitors: PM2.5, TVOCs, formaldehyde, Air Quality Index (AQI)
• Smart-home integration: No
• Number of rooms: Single-room coverage

While we appreciated the accuracy of the Temtop M10 air quality monitor, we had issues with some of its functionality. Though its 3.2-inch square display screen proved easy to see, even from across the room, we had to repeatedly press a button on the top to scroll through all the various air quality readings. The display defaults to its AQI setting (not to be confused with the AQI reported by local weather stations) and reflects Temtop’s PM reading.

The monitor features a color-coded light at the top that shines green to indicate good air quality, yellow when the air quality isn’t optimal but isn’t hazardous, and red for poor air quality. We considered the light to be a bit too small and not bright enough—not easily noticeable unless we stood within a few feet of the device.

The Temtop detects TVOCs, and it specifically detects formaldehyde. Its formaldehyde (H2CO) reading increased when we put an oil-based stain in the test box (stain contains formaldehyde). Its TVOC numbers also increased, since formaldehyde is also a VOC. The TVOC numbers were consistent with the TVOC readings of the other monitors. In addition, its red light alerted us that the air quality was poor.

To detect particulate matter, we shook a dust mop over the box and let the dust and debris fall while we watched the PM readings. Temtop’s PM number tripled about 10 minutes later, which we felt was a good indicator of accurately sensing the dust; the number dropped after about 25 minutes as the dust settled.

Get the Temtop M10 air quality monitor at Amazon or Temtop. 

Best Bang for the Buck

Airthings 292 Wave Mini Indoor Air Quality Monitor

See It

What We Like

• The color-coded light indicator
• Detects TVOCs that are circulating in the air
• Reads the room’s temp and humidity levels
• Shows outdoor pollen levels (via app)

What We Don’t Like

• No carbon monoxide, radon, or PM2.5 detection

Product Specs

• Monitors: TVOCs, temperature, humidity, outdoor pollen levels
• Smart-home integration: Yes
• Number of rooms: Single-room coverage

To measure chemical pollutants in the air without spending a lot, consider the well-priced Wave Mini. We tested a model independently from the one in our best overall pick, and to keep the two monitor tests separate, we downloaded another Airthings app on a different smartphone to track it. Unfortunately, the two Minis interfered with one another, so we disconnected the Airthings House Kit and then tested the Wave Mini separately.

This model doesn’t come with a hub (so no Wi-Fi connection), but it offers Bluetooth connectivity. We could read the numbers on our smartphone when we were within Bluetooth range (approximately 100 feet of the monitor).

The Wave Mini detects TVOCs, humidity, and temperature in the room. After spending a few hours exposed to a dish of oil-based stain in a closed box, the monitor’s TVOC levels spiked. When we compared its temperature and humidity readings to other monitors being tested, the readings were comparable. We believe it accurately portrayed all three readings.

The Wave Mini offers visual indication of air quality in the room, which is accessible when the user waves a hand in front of the monitor. A light flashes green for “healthy,” yellow for “caution,” and red for “poor” air quality.

Users can purchase a hub separately, allowing them to integrate with smart-home products such as Google Assistant and Alexa. The Wave Mini also tracks outdoor pollen levels via the app that syncs with a local weather service. If users don’t have a specific need for monitoring carbon monoxide, radon, or dust, the Wave Mini may be just the right budget-friendly device to keep track of chemical pollutants in the home.

Get the Airthings 292 air quality monitor at Amazon.

Most High-Tech

Airthings 2950 Wave Plus Radon & Air Quality Monitor

See It

What We Like

• Detects radon and carbon dioxide in addition to TVOCs
• Color-coded light indicator shows air quality
• Comes with smart-home integration

What We Don’t Like

• No particulate matter detection integrated
• Not Wi-Fi capable

Product Specs 

• Monitors: TVOCs, radon, carbon dioxide, temperature, humidity, outdoor pollen
• Smart-home integration: Yes (via IFTTT)
• Number of rooms: Single-room coverage

The third Airthings monitor we tested was quite an overachiever! We tested it separately from the other Airthings models to avoid conflicting app readings. This monitor, which connects using Bluetooth technology via the Airthings app, provided detailed reports about our home’s air quality. It will also connect to smart-home devices, such as Alexa, but not via Wi-Fi. Instead, users must download the IFTTT app for their smartphone, which allows a connection between Wave Plus and Alexa.

The first test we performed on the Wave Plus was in a friend’s home where radon was previously detected and is being treated. They have a professional radon detector, so we wanted to see if the Wave Plus would also detect the gas. We positioned it in the basement of the home and left it there for a week.

On our return, we checked the Airthings app and found a radon reading of 3.5pCi/L. This was the exact reading the professional radon detector was showing. When we waved a hand in front of the Wave Plus, it flashed a yellow light that told us the air quality was affected but not hazardous. When we took the Wave Plus outside in the fresh air, the radon level dropped, and the light turned green to indicate healthy air.

We then tested the Wave Plus in our test box where we exposed it for 2 hours to a dish of oil-based stain, a product that contains VOCs. When we checked the monitor, the light was red (indicating hazardous air quality), and on the app we saw that the TVOC reading had spiked. We also compared the monitor’s temperature and humidity readings to those of the other monitors, which were consistent.

We performed one more test—a very unscientific CO2 test. We know that smoke contains CO2, so we took the Wave Plus to the garage and put it on a bench. We used our beehive smoker to blow little puffs of smoke directly on the monitor. The CO2 levels on the app increased slightly, and the indicator light turned yellow. We felt it was detecting some CO2, but we couldn’t tell if it was sensing as much as it should have been. Still, it registered an increase similar to the CO2 detectors on other monitors, so we felt the smoke from the beehive smoker didn’t contain much carbon dioxide.

Get the Airthings 2950 air quality monitor at Amazon or The Home Depot.

Most Comprehensive

uHoo Smart Indoor Air Quality Monitor

See It

What We Like

• Detects a wide range of airborne pollutants
• Sleek and attractive look
• Syncs with smart-home devices

What We Don’t Like

• No visual indicator of air quality

Product Specs

• Monitors: TVOCs, ozone, particulate matter, carbon monoxide, nitrogen dioxide, carbon dioxide, plus temp and humidity
• Smart-home integration: Yes
• Number of rooms: Single

With its attractive cylindrical shape and lack of a screen, the uHoo air quality monitor didn’t look like a monitor of any kind. And we were slightly discouraged to find that it didn’t come with an instruction manual. Then we found the uHoo app and downloaded it to our phone, and it walked us through the setup. We synced the uHoo with our Wi-Fi network without any problems; it also has the ability to sync to smart-home devices, such as Alexa, with the IFTTT app. The monitor itself does not offer any visual displays—all readings are accessed over a smart device via the app.

We put the uHoo in a large box with an open dish of oil-based wood stain to see if it would react to the VOC fumes released by the liquid. We closed the box and checked the app in 2 hours. The VOC numbers had almost tripled, and the app showed a red caution bar indicating a dangerous level of VOCs.

We tested for particulate matter by shaking a dust mop over the box and then observing the PM2.5 reading on the app. As the dust filtered down through the box, the PM reading spiked and fell again in about 25 minutes as the dust seemed to settle.

We used some creative—but not scientific—tests to see if the monitor could detect CO2.

• To test for CO2, we put the uHoo on a shelf in the garage and used our beehive smoker to blow puffs of smoke directly on the monitor.
• To test for NO2, we started a wood-burning fire in the fireplace of our she shed and then closed the chimney flue, causing smoke to back up in the shed.
• To test for CO, we put the uHoo in the garage, started the car, and then closed the garage doors to let the exhaust accumulate.

The uHoo monitor detected a small amount of CO2 and larger amounts of CO and NO2. We watched the corresponding readings on the smartphone app (while we remained safely outside).

The only test that failed to provide a successful reading was for ozone. We’d read that printers can increase ozone levels, so we put the monitor beside a printer and printed dozens of pages—but we saw no change on the uHoo app. Our second test was a spur-of-the-moment one, as a large thunderstorm with lots of lightning was occurring (lightning generates ozone). We placed the monitor on a table on our covered patio, but the app readings didn’t fluctuate. We don’t know if that was the monitor’s fault or whether the storm created little to no ozone.

We also compared the temperature and humidity as reported by the uHoo to the readings we got on other monitors, and it was consistently within a couple of degrees. To check air pressure readings, we compared the uHoo to the barometric reading of our professional weather station, and it was pretty close there as well.

Get the uHoo air quality monitor at Amazon, The Home Depot, or Best Buy.

Best for Allergies

IQAir AirVisual Pro Indoor Air Quality Monitor

See It

What We Like

• Easy-to-see digital display
• Detects airborne particulates in a wide size range
• Displays outdoor weather readings (AQI)
• Will send alerts to smartphone

What We Don’t Like

• No radon or TVOCs detection
• Must be plugged in to operate

Product Specs

• Monitors: PM1, PM2.5 PM10, CO2, AQI, temperature, humidity
• Smart-home integration: Yes
• Number of rooms: Single-room coverage

The AirVisual Pro air quality monitor by IQAir boasts advanced laser technology, airflow control, and a crafted calibration algorithm to detect precise particulate matter and CO2 data. We felt the most important readings on this monitor for allergy sufferers were the PM1, PM2.5, and PM10 readings. These sensors detect various-size airborne particles, ranging from pollen, which is rather large and can be detected by the PM10 sensor, all the way down to ultrafine dust that can’t be seen but is easily inhaled.

The AirVisual Pro syncs with smart-home systems using either Wi-Fi or IFTTT. We tested both, and both worked well. The best thing about this monitor is its large visual display screen. It’s nice to be able to check the app, but in our opinion, it’s even better to see a visual display at a glance without having to use a smartphone first. Another plus: This monitor gathers outside air quality ratings via local weather reports and displays them prominently.

When we put the AirVisual monitor in our test box and shook a dust mop over it, all three PM sensor readings spiked, which indicated that it was detecting a range of particulate matter sizes. After 30 minutes, the PM10 and PM2.5 readings dropped, as we suspected they would, because the dust had settled. However, the PM1 reading only declined slightly, which we think was due to the extra-tiny particulates that remained airborne longer. The PM1 reading didn’t drop for another hour.

The air quality monitor also detectsCO2 levels, temperature, and humidity. We tested the CO2 sensor by putting the monitor in the garage and blowing puffs of smoke on it from our beehive smoker. The CO2 readings increased slightly, but they didn’t spike. Still, that was consistent with our other monitor tests for CO2.

This specific monitor had some trouble with temperature and humidity, as both readings were off by more than 7 degrees Fahrenheit/points compared to the other monitors. Also, it doesn’t detect VOCs. Overall, this is a handy monitor to detect the presence of primary allergy triggers, such as airborne particulates.

Get the IQAir air quality monitor at Amazon, Walmart, or Best Buy.

Best Portable

Temtop P600 Air Quality Monitor

See It

What We Like

• Large digital readout for quick checks and monitoring
• Battery-operated for portability indoors and out
• Simple construction

What We Don’t Like

• Doesn’t detect VOCs in the air
• Needs daily recharging
• Doesn’t sync with smart devices

Product Specs

• Monitors: PM2.5, PM10
• Smart-home integration: No
• Number of rooms: Single

Those looking for a portable air quality monitor to detect pollen and other airborne particulate matter may find the Temtop P600 air quality monitor to be just the ticket. It uses a Quantum Semiconductor International (QSI) laser diode to detect particulate matter as small as 2.5 microns. A highly sensitive diode also found in professional laboratory equipment, it also detects larger particulates, such as pollen, in the 10-micron range.

The unit has a kickstand that folds out, so users can stand the monitor on a table, nightstand, or even a tent floor when camping out. The first thing we did was charge it fully using the included USB cord, then we started testing.

There wasn’t too much to test on this one, however, since the P600 detects only airborne particulate matter. We put it in our test box and shook a dust mop over it. This monitor doesn’t sync with smart devices, so we couldn’t monitor the readings remotely from a smartphone. Instead, we checked it every few minutes to see if it had changed. The readings predictably spiked after 10 minutes and then gradually dropped (after about 25 minutes) as the dust settled.

One of the upsides to this Temtop model is that it displays air quality over 12 hours on a chart readout. This helped us see air quality changes over the course of a day. Unfortunately, the battery runs down pretty quickly—we had to charge it every morning for a couple of hours in order for it to run the rest of the day. The alternative is to leave it plugged into the USB cord, but the cord plugs into the bottom of the monitor so it won’t sit upright when plugged in. As a solution, we recommend turning the monitor on periodically to check the air quality in a room and then turning it back off to save battery life.

Get the Temtop P600 air quality monitor at Amazon or Walmart. 

Best for Bedrooms

Amazon Smart Air Quality Monitor

See It

What We Like

• Detects multiple elements
• Works with Amazon Alexa
• Multicolor LED status indicator

What We Don’t Like

• No carbon dioxide detection or radon levels in the air

Product Specs

• Monitors: PM2.5, CO, TVOCs, humidity, temperature
• Smart-home integration: Yes
• Number of rooms: Single

Amazon, increasingly offering more of its own brand of products, has entered the air quality monitor field with this device, which measures particulate matter, TVOCs, carbon monoxide, humidity, and temperature. It’s ideal for bedrooms because the small white cube with a little stainless steel vent in front doesn’t have a large display that might keep some folks awake. Instead, a tiny indicator light at the top that shines green, yellow, or red notifies the user of the current air quality. We didn’t find the indicator light to be bright enough to be annoying; it was just bright enough to display the air quality at a glance. However, it only works in a darkened room—it’s not bright enough to see it in sunny daylight.

The Amazon smart air quality monitor syncs with Bluetooth and Wi-Fi, and we found it simple to connect to both. We were unable, however, to connect the monitor to our Echo Show (not included), although it’s advertised as being able to do so. We’re not sure what caused the glitch, since our Echo Show and the monitor individually synced with the Alexa app, but it’s possible it will only connect with newer models of the Echo Show (ours is an older model). Still, the Alexa app on our smartphone provided excellent real-time readings and charts that made it easy to see the air quality.

We tested this monitor in our test box for VOCs and particulate matter. For the first test, we put a dish of oil-based stain in the box, gave it a couple of hours to infiltrate the air, and then checked the app. The VOC reading had spiked. We then opened the box to check the monitor—the indicator light shone red (hazardous air quality). For the second test, we shook the dust mop over the box and monitored the app on our phone. The PM2.5 reading spiked in about 5 minutes and fell 20 minutes later as the dust settled.

To test the CO sensor, we put the monitor in the garage, started the car, and closed the doors. We watched on our smartphone as the CO reading on the app rose. When we opened the garage door, the indicator light was red. We brought the monitor out into the fresh air, and the light turned green in about 10 minutes.

Compared with the other monitors we tested, the Amazon smart air quality monitor’s temperature and humidity readings were right on target. Overall, we liked this little monitor, and we felt it was accurate and discreet enough not to detract from bedroom or nursery decor.

Get the Amazon air quality monitor at Amazon. 

Also Tested

Biaoling Air Quality Monitor

Not all the air quality monitors we tested earned a spot on this lineup. We had high hopes for the Biaoling air quality monitor because it has a large display screen and is supposed to detect a range of pollutants. Unfortunately, the only pollutant it detected was CO2, and even then, the increase was much smaller compared with the other monitors with CO2 sensors. We saw no movement when testing for formaldehyde, TVOCs, or particulate matter, so we had to eliminate the Biaoling from our lineup.

When checking product reviews, we found some buyers liked this monitor and felt it was accurate, so perhaps we just got a defective model.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Tested the Best Air Quality Monitors 

Before we chose monitors for hands-on testing, we researched more than 40 models, looking for various sensor types and paying close attention to buyers’ reviews and ratings. We also reached out to an industry expert to get some additional insight. Lisa Townley, the associate director of product management/replacement parts at Carrier, a global provider of HVAC solutions, says, “As people are focused on the health of their indoor environments more than ever before, it’s imperative that they take steps to improve their living and working spaces, including the air they breathe.” She goes on to say that knowing what’s in your air is important because you can “take steps to lower the likelihood of mold … better manage allergens and asthma triggers … and create conditions for improved sleep.” She adds that air monitors with advanced technology to detect finer particles down to 2.5 microns or smaller are particularly useful in the home. We took this expert advice into consideration when choosing which products to test.

For our actual tests—and we must say right off the bat that these were not scientifically controlled trials—we created situations we felt mimicked (or exceeded) real-life air quality problems. To test whether monitors with particulate matter (PM) sensors worked, we put them in a large box and shook a very dirty dust mop over the top. We then monitored the PM readouts on smartphones (or manually) to see when or if they spiked and when they fell (as the dust settled).

We used wood stain, which contains VOCs, including formaldehyde, to test the monitors with VOC sensors. We placed an open dish of oil-based wood stain in the test box and allowed the fumes to infiltrate the box for a couple of hours before checking the readings.

We got a little more creative when testing other sensors! We tested monitors with carbon dioxide (CO2) sensors by blowing puffs of smoke directly on the monitors using our beehive smoker. We tested for carbon monoxide (CO) by putting the monitors with CO detectors in a closed garage with a car running inside. We tested a single monitor to see if it would detect nitrogen dioxide (NO2) by starting a wood fire in the fireplace of our she shed and then closing the flue and monitoring the readout on our smartphone.

To see how well radon sensors worked, we tested them in the basement of a friend’s home, where we already knew radon was an issue.

Temperature and humidity were casually tested by comparing those numbers with other monitors and using the average of the readings (minus the highest and lowest, which we threw out) to determine consistency.

We looked for readout increases and decreases but didn’t compare actual numbers. The detection numbers varied from monitor to monitor from the start, and we felt that one monitor might receive more exposure to a pollutant than another, even though we tried to keep the exposure levels similar. If the readings more than doubled, we deemed it a “spike.”

We also examined and analyzed how easy it was to sync the monitors with Bluetooth; Wi-Fi; or If This, Then That (IFTTT) capability.

To arrive at our awards, we gave models points using a rubric—the better we felt the monitor performed during a test, the more points it received. At the end of testing, we added the points and used them to determine the best category for each monitor.

What to Consider When Choosing an Air Quality Monitor

The monitors we tested ranged from single-pollutant sensors, such as simple radon detectors, to multiple-pollutant detection models that tracked the e humidity levels and several toxic gases. In most cases, a consumer will want a monitor that detects the type of air pollution that puts their home and family at the most significant risk.

For example, consumers who live in a region with known radon problems will want to look for a radon detector or a carbon monoxide detector if they’re concerned about automobile exhaust fumes seeping in from an attached garage. In addition, the following factors are important considerations for consumers shopping for an air quality monitor.

Precision

Consumer-quality monitors are not as precise as laboratory detectors, but they’re typically good enough to alert household members that airborne particulates and toxic gases are present.

Monitors that detect dangerous gases, such as VOCs and carbon monoxide, feature electrochemical sensors that react to the presence of gaseous toxins in the air. In some monitors, these sensors must be manually calibrated, but many of the newer models are precalibrated.

Monitors designed to detect dust, allergens, and other airborne particulates do so by estimating the amount of particulate matter that passes in front of a laser. Though valuable, these measurements may not be exact for two main reasons: larger PM might not drift into the laser chamber, and the laser might overlook the tiniest PM.

Detected Pollutants

Home air quality monitors can detect a range of pollutants and will generally detect one or more of the following. Some may detect additional contaminants, but these are the most common.

• Total VOCs: Most monitors will usually not differentiate between different types of VOCs but will record them all as “total VOCs” or “TVOCs.”
• Formaldehyde: Potentially a problem in new homes and caused mainly by the off-gassing of new products (such as newly refinished furniture or freshly laid carpeting), formaldehyde can cause respiratory symptoms, especially in those prone to allergies. Most monitors don’t specifically measure H2CO, but some do. Formaldehyde is a VOC, so a monitor that detects TVOCs will also pick up H2CO; it just won’t specify it as such.
• Radon: Colorless, odorless, and toxic, radon is a natural byproduct of decomposition in soil—particularly soils that are heavy in clay. Radon detectors should be located in the lowest rooms of the house, typically the basement or crawl space, because that’s where radon enters and accumulates. Unless a monitor specifies that it measures radon levels, it probably doesn’t.
• Ozone: Created in nature (think the smell of the air after a thunderstorm) or as a product of electronic devices (such as printers), ozone can trigger headaches and respiratory symptoms in some people. Only a few air quality monitors can detect ozone.
• Carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide: Odorless and highly toxic, carbon monoxide is present in automobile exhaust. It can also be found in homes with wood-burning stoves that are not adequately vented. Some monitors also detect carbon dioxide and nitrogen dioxide as well. All three are carbon gases and considered detrimental to humans and the environment. While CO is the most dangerous to humans, high concentrations of both CO2 and NO2 can trigger respiratory symptoms.
• Particulate matter: For allergy sufferers, airborne pollutants such as dust and pollen are primary symptom triggers. Monitors that detect particulate matter are usually rated PM2.5, which means they will detect particles as small as 2.5 microns. For comparison, a human hair is about 70 microns thick. Some monitors offer smaller particulate detection of PM1, which would include, for instance, ultrafine dust. Others offer PM10 detection, which can be helpful for allergy sufferers because large pollen particulates can be in the 10-micron range.
• Pollen: Rather than detecting actual pollen levels in the room, an air quality monitor that tracks pollen levels most likely syncs with a local weather service to report local outdoor air quality conditions (see the section on AQI below).
• Mold: Not all mold is toxic black mold (Stachybotrys), but the airborne spores from virtually all types of mold can cause headaches and respiratory symptoms. Homes in damp or humid areas, or rooms prone to high humidity (such as bathrooms), may benefit from mold detection that can alert the user to a mold problem nearby.
• Temperature: Often, this simply measures the temperature in the room where the monitor is located, but it may also be the local outdoor temperature if the monitor syncs with an online weather service.
• Humidity: A monitor’s ability to detect humidity can inform users about when to run a humidifier or a dehumidifier if desired to increase comfort.
• Air Quality Index: Some monitors sync with local weather services to let users know the outdoor air quality daily, which is known as the local Air Quality Index. Others report indoor AQI based on the amount of particulate matter they detect in a room.

Ease of Use

While some air quality monitors are relatively straightforward, others are pretty high-tech. For example, some models are Wi-Fi capable, and others connect to smartphones and devices via Bluetooth capability or IFTTT technology. Such monitors come with apps that can be downloaded to a smartphone, and then the app walks users through the installation process.

Single-pollutant detectors, such as carbon monoxide detectors, are among the simplest to use because they often just plug into an outlet. If they detect the gas in question, they emit a high-pitched alarm. The best air quality monitor for any individual should be easy to use, depending on the person’s technical skill level. Consumers will want to avoid choosing a complex model with a huge learning curve that requires watching online videos for hours just to figure out how it operates.

Size

Most air quality monitors are relatively small devices, with a sensor unit and a screen that displays how much of the pollutant is currently in the air. Portable units, which fit in a tool belt, purse, or tool bag, are the smallest of all. These are well suited for testing the air on jobsites or in rental homes that don’t have stationary monitors.

Versatility

Many monitors have the ability to detect numerous problem gases and pollutants and are suitable for multiple spaces. Those who want air quality monitoring to integrate with smart-home technology—so it can display information on a phone or respond to voice commands—will want to look for a smart air quality monitor.

Some people prefer visual alerts rather than numbers or charts that can be challenging to decipher. Today’s monitors often provide color-coded lights that indicate air quality at a glance. Typically, a green light indicates good air quality, a yellow light signifies the air quality is less than optimal but not dangerous, and a red light is a warning that the air quality is poor.

Response Time

Response time refers to how quickly an air quality monitor will sense the problem and alert the household. Higher-quality devices often have quicker response times because their sensors are more accurate. Response times will also vary depending on which pollutant the monitor is tracking.

For example, some carbon monoxide monitors will sound an alarm after detecting a low level of gas over a few hours; however, if they detect a higher level, the monitor will sound the alarm after just a few minutes. Monitors that measure dust and pollen may not emit a warning at all but simply track and record the varying levels of the pollutants by the hour.

Power Supply

Air quality monitors are either corded (running on electricity from a standard household outlet) or battery-operated (powered by rechargeable batteries). Both are efficient, but for those who need to test air quality in a storage shed or another remote location, a battery-operated model is the handiest.

FAQs

Very few things are as important as the quality of the air your family is breathing. If you’re new to air quality monitors, you likely have some questions.

Q. Are air quality monitors accurate? 

According to SmartAir, a developer of air filtration products, the accuracy of air quality readings on monitors falls between 70 percent and 85 percent. While most monitors are as accurate as possible, no single model is 100 percent accurate.

Q. What are the most common airborne pollutants?

The most common pollutants are airborne particulate matter, such as dust, pet dander, and pollen. However, some other airborne irritants to be aware of are carbon monoxide, lead, radon, and carbon dioxide.

Q. How do I improve my indoor air quality? 

A few simple ideas can improve poor air quality:

• Clean regularly
• Keep your home well ventilated
• Purchase an air purifier
• Maintain your heating and cooling systems
• Add house plants
• Clean air ducts

Q. How do air quality monitors work?

They sense high or unhealthy levels of particulate matter or toxic gases and alert residents if the levels become dangerous. Many options on the market rely on color-coded air quality indicators to alert users as to the status of the air quality.

Q. Can air quality monitors detect mold?

Most consumer models can’t detect mold. However, consumers can purchase a home mold test with a petri dish and ingredients that will trigger mold growth if the home has a mold problem. While growing mold may seem counterproductive, it allows consumers to discover whether mold spores are present in the air, so they can take steps to locate the source of the mold and get rid of it.

Meet the Tester

Glenda Taylor is a product tester and writer specializing in the construction, remodeling, and real estate industries. She and her husband own a general contracting company, and Taylor is experienced in both residential and commercial building applications. She tests a wide range of power tools as well as other home improvement, household, and lawn-and-garden products.

The post The Best Air Quality Monitors to Keep Your Home Safe appeared first on Bob Vila.

Ever-rising utility costs can make heating an entire house prohibitively pricey. To save money but still keep occupied areas comfortable—say, the living room during a movie marathon—many renters and homeowners take advantage of space heaters. Today’s models offer basic heating features at more affordable prices, newer bells and whistles, and all-important upgraded safety features. To help potential buyers spot those that offer the features they want most, we put the space heaters below through a series of hands-on testing.

The best space heater for any particular area will depend on the room’s size, the type of heater, and whether it will be used in a home with children and/or pets. Testing took place in the home—in real-life scenarios to put performance and safety features on the spot—and gave us an inside look at how their features function over time. We also spoke to Robin Saidov, an energy industry expert, electrical engineer, and the owner of Your Energy Footprint, a company in Westport, Connecticut, that educates consumers on ways they can be more energy efficient. Ahead, learn what we found, how to navigate all of the market options, and find out why the models below are among the best space heaters available.

1. BEST OVERALL: Amazon Basics Portable Manual-Control Radiator Heater
2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Amazon Basics 1,500-Watt Oscillating Ceramic Heater
3. UPGRADE PICK: AirNmore Comfort Deluxe Infrared Space Heater
4. DESIGN PICK: Lasko 1500W Designer Series Ceramic Space Heater
5. BEST FOR LARGE ROOMS: Dr. Infrared Heater DR-968 Portable Space Heater
6. BEST FOR BATHROOMS: Vornado VH10 Whole Room Heater
7. BEST FOR BASEMENTS: De’Longhi SlimStyle Digital Convection Panel Heater
8. BEST FOR LIVING ROOMS: Heat Storm 1500-Watt Logan Deluxe Infrared Heater

Before You Buy a Space Heater

A space heater can be a welcome source of supplemental warmth in a chilly room, especially if it also saves money on utility costs by allowing the user to turn the HVAC thermostat down a few degrees. Keep in mind that space heaters get very hot and, if used carelessly, they can lead to a house fire. Before looking for a space heater, it’s a good idea for shoppers to call their homeowners insurance agent, since some insurance policies will not cover damages from a fire caused by a space heater.

Product Comparison

Our Top Picks

To qualify as a top pick, a space heater needed to show in our testing that it was powerful enough to heat the intended room. We also made sure each included safety features that would turn the unit off if it fell over. The following models are suited to various heating needs, and any one of them might well serve a variety of situations.

Best Overall

Amazon Basics Portable Manual-Control Radiator Heater

See It

What We Like

• Simple design is easy to assemble
• Runs almost silently
• Produces enough heat for larger rooms

What We Don’t Like

• Might not meet the needs of techier shoppers

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 5/5; Performance 3/5; Noise 5/5; Portability 4/5; Value 4/5

Product Specs 

• Watts: 1,500 watts
• Weight: 15.41 pounds
• Dimensions: 26.38 inches tall (with wheels) by 13.19 inches wide by 9.84 inches deep 

The Amazon Basics portable manual-control radiator heater is aptly named, as it is a basic space heater. This oil-filled radiator features two control knobs (temperature and output) for setting the heater and letting it do its work, so it is very easy to use.

This model features a 1,500W output, allowing it to heat large rooms. It also features a tip-over switch and overheat protection for safety, and it operates nearly silently, aside from the sound of an air bubble in the oil now and then. It measures 26.38 inches tall (with wheels) by 13.19 inches wide by 9.84 inches deep. It features a top-mounted handle for transport as well, and it weighs 15.41 pounds. 

There isn’t a lot to say about the Amazon Basics oil heater. It was easy to assemble and use, and it produced plenty of heat (although it took 2 hours to heat a living room from 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit). There isn’t a digital display or remote control to adjust the temperature, but the fact that it provides silent heat is really a plus—all that’s discernible is a click every now and then when the heating element kicks on and off. It might be a little too simple for tech lovers, however. 

Get the Amazon Basics space heater at Amazon.

Best Bang for the Buck

Amazon Basics 1,500-Watt Oscillating Ceramic Heater

See It

What We Like

• Lightweight and easy to set up and adjust
• Oscillating feature distributes heat throughout the room
• Small and compact design

What We Don’t Like

• No display to show exact thermostat setting

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 4/5; Performance 4/5; Noise 3/5; Portability 5/5; Value 5/5

Product Specs

• Watts: 1,500
• Weight: 3.2 pounds
• Dimensions: 10.04 inches tall by 6.34 inches wide by 7.52 inches deep

For a reasonable price, this oscillating heater provides 1,500 watts of heat, enough to keep a 150-square-foot room warm and cozy. It features three power outputs (low, high, and fan only), plus tip-over shutoff for safety should it inadvertently get knocked over. There’s a simple on/off switch for easy operation and a thermostat dial that allows the user to select the desired temperature. After the user sets the thermostat, the heater will turn itself on and off to maintain the selected temperature. It weighs a mere 3.2 pounds and boasts a handle on the back for easy toting from room to room.

While this simple heater did well during testing, it doesn’t have any features that make it stand out. The basic heat functions worked well, and the adjustable thermostat triggered an automatic shutoff. However, it could use a display to show the exact temperature setting. The current variable thermostat left us guessing as to the temperature we were choosing. Overall, it’s lightweight, portable, and made quick work of heating a 150-square-foot office.

Get the Amazon Basics oscillating space heater at Amazon.

Upgrade Pick

AirNmore Comfort Deluxe Infrared Space Heater

See It

What We Like

• Onboard cord storage and 4 casters
• Comfortable penetrating heat
• Includes particle filter

What We Don’t Like

• Large size makes it more conspicuous

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 4/5; Performance 4/5; Noise 3/5; Portability 3/5; Value 4/5

Product Specs

• Watts: 1,500
• Weight: 22 pounds
• Dimensions: 16.75 inches tall by 13 inches wide by 16.5 inches deep

For warmth and peace of mind, consider the ample safety features of the AirNmore Comfort Deluxe infrared space heater. Though it will heat a room up to 150 square feet, its outer casing will remain cool to the touch, which is crucial for homes with kids and pets. The tip-over safety function shuts the unit off if it gets knocked over, but since it weighs 22 pounds, this is a less likely scenario than with some smaller models. A 14-gauge cord with a three-prong heater plug reduces the risk of the cord melting from overheating.

The power level is adjustable, and the heater has a built-in thermostat to maintain a consistent temperature. A removable, washable filter prevents dust from recirculating in the air. Users might mistake this space heater for an old-time radio; it definitely looks more design-friendly than some other more utilitarian models. We loved this heater in testing, although with infrared heaters, users have to direct the heat toward themselves. It’s a penetrating heat, but only if it hits the body.

A tiny remote control let us change modes (low or high) and temperatures while working at a desk, and we liked that we could precisely adjust the temperature setting and see it on the display. The downside with this AirNmore space heater is its size. It’s big and takes up a lot of room while heating up a relatively small 150-square-foot space. However, the casters make moving this behemoth out of the way when not in use fairly easy.

Get the AirNmore space heater at Amazon or Walmart.

Design Pick

Lasko 1500W Designer Series Ceramic Space Heater

See It

What We Like

• Attractive design that doesn’t look like a heater
• 3 automatic timer settings and automatic shutoff
• Comes with a handy remote control
• Warms a room fairly quickly

What We Don’t Like

• Shuts off when the temp is reached

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 4/5; Performance 5/5; Noise 5/5; Portability 4/5; Value 5/5

Product Specs

• Watts: 1,500
• Weight: 6.89 pounds
• Dimensions: 16 inches tall by 11 inches wide by 11 inches deep

This electric heater from Lasko’s Designer series has smooth contours and rests on an attractive base so that it looks more like a work of art than a space heater. Appearance aside, the ceramic model effectively heats rooms up to 150 square feet by oscillating smoothly from side to side for uniform heat distribution. Switch between its adjustable heat settings via the remote; the Lasko can even be programmed in advance to turn on and off when desired. This handsome space heater also features a safety shutoff in case the unit tips over.

This beauty was a pleasant surprise during testing because it cranks out the heat. It might be designed to heat 150-square-foot spaces, but it can do more than that with the heat it puts out. The oscillating setting spread the heat far and wide, quickly warming our 200-square-foot test space (another office) to perfection. We liked that we could pick the temperature setting, though it only goes in 5 degree Fahrenheit increments. Plus, it comes with a timer that automatically turns the unit off after 1, 2, or 4 hours. With that set, we didn’t worry about leaving it on while we were away.

Once the room reaches the set temperature, this space heater automatically shuts off. However, we noticed that if the temperature began to fall, it didn’t automatically turn back on. But we could turn it back on using the remote, so no one actually had to get out of their chair. This model might have made us a little lazy.

Get the Lasko space heater at The Home Depot, Best Buy, or Staples.

Best for Large Rooms

Dr. Infrared Heater DR-968 Portable Space Heater

See It

What We Like

• Puts out fast infrared heat
• Quiet fan helps circulate heat without noise
• Easy thermostat adjustability and setting options
• Remote control

What We Don’t Like

• Quite heavy and cumbersome to move around

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 5/5; Performance 5/5; Noise 5/5; Portability 3/5; Value 4/5

Product Specs

• Watts: 1,500
• Weight: 24 pounds
• Dimensions: 15 inches tall by 13 inches wide by 12 inches deep

This 1,500-watt portable space heater from Dr. Infrared Heater looks like a classic radio but runs like the high-tech space heater that it is. Emitting only 39 decibels, this infrared heater features quiet air circulation that moves the heat through large spaces. We tested it in a 200-square-foot office, and this space heater made quick work of warming it. Infrared heaters don’t heat the air; instead, they heat objects. This heater’s quiet fan made it feel like the heat permeated farther and made a difference in overall room temperature.

It’s also packed with features including standby, eco, low, and high power modes. The digital display shows the thermostat’s setting, which makes it easy to make adjustments based on comfort levels.

We’re big fans of remote controls. This model’s remote control allowed us to make comfort adjustments without getting out of our office chair. We appreciated that we could leave it on all day while we worked, and it would turn on and off as needed. There’s also an adjustable timer, which can go up to 12 hours before automatically shutting off the heater.

Overall, it’s a nice-looking heater that can handle spaces up to about 850 square feet. It’s not the most mobile unit, weighing 24 pounds, but it does have casters for easier mobility.

Get the Dr. Infrared Heater space heater at Amazon, Lowe’s, The Home Depot, Walmart, or Dr. Heater.

Best for Bathrooms

Vornado VH10 Whole Room Heater

See It

What We Like

• Built with 3 safety features
• Wide base provides more stability
• Vortex action moves a lot of air through the room

What We Don’t Like

• Cannot see the precise temperature setting

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 3/5; Performance 5/5; Noise 4/5; Portability 5/5; Value 4/5

Product Specs

• Watts: 1,500
• Weight: 5.08 pounds
• Dimensions: 12 inches tall by 9.25 inches wide by 11.63 inches deep

A set of three safety features provides extra security in a bathroom setting. The Vornado’s cool-touch exterior, heat detection, and tilt shutoff create a safer heater for a room where it could easily get knocked over. The heat detection feature turns the heater off if a towel or clothing falls on top of the heater. Among its other features, it has an adjustable thermostat, though there’s no display to show users the exact temperature, and two heat settings—low or high.

The Vornado’s wide base made it more stable than similar space heaters we tested. When that’s coupled with the three safety features, it’s made for places (or homes) where blankets, towels, and clothes could end up on top of the heater, or pets and kids might knock it over. This model moved air beautifully and heated our office space quickly. The only thing we felt was missing was a display so we could have seen the precise temperature setting rather than guessing with the adjustable thermostat.

Get the Vornado space heater at Amazon, The Home Depot, Walmart, or Target.

Best For Basements

De’Longhi SlimStyle Digital Convection Panel Heater

See It

What We Like

• Slim design
• Features anti-freeze mode
• Attractive design

What We Don’t Like

• It doesn’t come with a remote

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 4/5; Performance 4/5; Noise 5/5; Portability 5/5; Value 4/5

Product Specs 

• Watts: 1,500
• Weight: 6.95 pounds
• Dimensions: 21.8 inches tall (with feet) by 32.2 inches wide by 8.5 inches deep 

Figuring out the heat in a finished basement can be an ordeal but might be easily solved with the De’Longhi SlimStyle digital convection panel heater. This model can be set on the floor or mounted on the wall (the latter being best for basement duty), and it produces up to 1,500 watts of heating power. It measures 21.8 inches tall (with feet) by 32.2 inches wide by 8.5 inches deep. 

The De’Longhi features a convection-style design that is virtually silent in three out of the four modes, and a fourth mode with a fan to help pump out the heat. It also features a fifth mode (anti-freeze), which the manufacturer says kicks on when the temperature in the space reaches 41 degrees Fahrenheit; this is to help prevent frozen pipes. The heater has a built-in tip-over switch as well as an overheat sensor, timers, and an electronic digital display. Unfortunately, it doesn’t come with a remote. 

We’re not relegating the De’Longhi to the basement because it’s ugly; we honestly found it very nice looking. However, we think it’s best there for its included wall-mount brackets and the fact that it has a freeze-protection mode (ours activated at 45 degrees, not 41 like the manufacturer stated). With so many pipes and mechanicals in a finished basement, we thought this was the perfect solution to protect the investment. Also, most space heaters don’t reach settings that low, so this one works really well for that purpose.

There is one thing we couldn’t figure out, however: Why in the world doesn’t it come with a remote?

Get the De’Longhi SlimStyle space heater at Amazon.

Best For Living Rooms

Heat Storm 1500-Watt Logan Deluxe Infrared Heater

See It

What We Like

• Fabric sides and faux wood provide a cozy look
• Produces plenty of heat
• Remote control and large digital display

What We Don’t Like

• Faux wood not as high quality as real-wood

Our Ratings: Ease of Use 5/5; Performance 5/5; Noise 5/5; Portability 4/5; Value 4/5

Product Specs 

• Watts: 1,500 watts
• Weight: 10 pounds
• Dimensions: 15.3 inches tall (with wheels) by 12.3 inches wide by 10.8 inches deep

The Heat Storm Logan Deluxe infrared heater is all about coziness. This powerful space heater features a 1,500W output, a digital display, and a remote control for managing the device from the couch. It has a faux-wood box-style design with fabric-covered sides, allowing it to blend in with comfortable living room decor. It can also handle large living rooms, considering it can warm up to 1,000 square feet. 

This model features several modes—including high, medium, low, and auto—that control the heater based on the preset temperature. It also has a safe-touch exterior that remains cool and safe, a child lock, and overheat protection. The heater operates quietly (measured at 46 decibels on a sound meter app from about 4 feet away) as well. It measures 15.3 inches tall (with wheels) by 12.3 inches wide by 10.8 inches deep.

We’ll be honest and say that this heater has to match a living room decor to be a perfect fit, but if one of the three finish color options works, the unit can sit in the corner of any room and blend in until it’s needed. 

While it’s light (10 pounds), the box itself is simply faux wood, which doesn’t seem as high in quality as other real-wood heaters that we’ve tested in the past. It had a better digital display than any of those other box-style heaters, however, and it produced a lot of heat, bringing a 63 degree Fahrenheit living room to 70 degrees Fahrenheit in about 15 minutes. Also, for those who care, it blows hot air out at the perfect height for one of our old dogs, who instantly laid down in front of it and fell asleep. We assume other four-legged friends will love it, too.  

Get the Heat Storm Logan space heater at Amazon, The Home Depot, Walmart, Northern Tool + Equipment, or Menards.

Also Tested

Lasko Ceramic Space Heater With Adjustable Thermostat

This space heater performed well in many respects. It has an adjustable thermostat, 11 heat settings, a cool-touch exterior, and a compact design. What it doesn’t have is an automatic tilt shut-off feature. That means if it gets knocked over, it keeps running. In a home with pets, kids, and, honestly, most adults, it could keep running face down, posing a fire hazard. For that reason, it didn’t make our list of top picks.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Tested the Best Space Heaters

We tested these space heaters in person, in real-world situations. They were all tested in a home office setting where the office was 150 to 200 square feet in size. One of the test offices also had large windows, so the room temperature fluctuated more often. We tried them on different surfaces, from plush carpet to bare floors.

For models with a digital display, we set the thermostat between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit to see how well the space heater kept a consistent room temperature. From there, we made adjustments to settings (low and high), timers, and safety features. For example, we tipped over every single space heater to make sure it turned off.

Models designed to turn on and off based on the thermostat were left running to see how they performed over time. Some stayed in standby mode for hours without turning on because a furnace kept the room at temperature. We wanted to make sure they wouldn’t turn on if it wasn’t necessary. Ease of use was also a consideration, and models with remote controls or intuitive designs got higher marks from us.

Besides taking into account the size of the room you’re planning to heat, Saidov says it’s a good idea to “find a model that has a set temperature.” She adds, “This will ensure that the unit doesn’t overheat the space.” She also says to make sure the space heater is Underwriters Laboratories (UL) certified, a third-party certification that means the heater meets certain safety standards. And, most importantly, “Electric space heaters should always be plugged into a wall outlet and grounded. Using extension cords and power strips can be a fire hazard.”

What to Consider When Choosing a Space Heater

A small space heater might be suitable under a desk or next to a lounge chair, but it likely won’t make a dent in a sizable chilly room. A space heater’s size should suit the room that it will warm and should, of course, be as safe as possible.

Types of Space Heaters

For those just starting to shop for a space heater, it might come as a surprise to find so many different types from which to choose. Each type has its pros and cons, and not all space heaters are suitable for all rooms and situations.

Fan Space Heaters

Fan space heaters function by heating the air around an electric coil or wire elements and then dispersing the heat with a fan. They are among the least expensive models but do not offer the same efficiency as other types. Therefore, fan heaters are best suited to rooms without drafts or for warming a small space quickly.

Convection Space Heaters

Convection space heaters warm air over ceramic plates or disks and allow it to radiate warmth into the room. Some models do include fans for quicker heat dispersal and, like conventional fan heaters, they work best in rooms without drafts. Convection heaters come in compact or tower models, often with exterior cases that are cooler to the touch. Prices vary depending on wattage and added features.

Infrared Space Heaters

Infrared space heaters are among the quietest options for the home. They generate heat quickly by radiating heat to the objects—including people—in front of them. As opposed to heating the air in the room, this type of heater heats the user, making it a good choice for use in drafty rooms. All that’s needed is for the user to aim it directly at where they’re sitting.

Oil-Filled Space Heaters

Oil-filled space heaters (another type of radiant heater) are also a quiet option. Because they are capable of putting off an abundance of heat while using less electricity than fan-type models, these heaters are well suited to larger rooms. Due to the weight of the oil and the steel casing, these heaters are relatively heavy, but many come with wheels to make relocating easier. Oil-filled space heaters take a while to heat up, but they radiate continuously once they do.

Micathermic Space Heaters

Micathermic space heaters combine convection and radiant heating processes. Designed as a panel to stand or hang on a wall like a piece of artwork, they create a welcoming ambience for the senses by mimicking the look of a real fire and radiating heat. Some models include fans for greater efficiency and remote controls for extra convenience. These advanced heaters vary widely in price.

Safety

Space heaters are a leading cause of house fires, so the best space heaters boast safety features to reduce risk. Manufacturers have introduced automatic shutoffs that kick in when a unit overheats or gets inadvertently knocked over. In addition, many have exterior cases that keep units cool to the touch at all times. Some models even come equipped with motion sensors that automatically turn the heater off when a pet or child comes too close. For extra peace of mind when purchasing, look for the letters NRTL on the space heater packaging, which indicates that the model has been tested for safety by the Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory.

Your Heating Needs

As a general rule of thumb, select a space heater that will produce 10 watts of power for every square foot. For instance, to heat a 12-foot-long by 10-foot-wide room, a shopper would need to purchase a 1,200W space heater. A very large room may require more than one space heater to maintain a comfortable temperature throughout.

Other factors that affect a space heater’s efficiency include ceiling height, the insulating factor of the exterior walls, the number of windows, and the available outlets. While high-wattage heaters offer more heat than lower-wattage models, they’re limited to the capacity of the electrical outlet; a home’s standard 110-volt electrical outlet can only provide 1,500W of power, so that must be the wattage cap for any machine plugged into it.

Energy Efficiency 

One of the main reasons for using a space heater is to save on energy costs. But unlike many other appliances, space heaters do not require energy testing by the Environmental Protection Agency, nor does the agency issue Energy Star ratings for them, so those who are serious about saving will want to opt for the most efficient type.

Oil-filled space heaters are among the most efficient because they heat the oil and the metal casing, gradually dispersing radiant warmth into the room. Once the oil reaches the desired temperature, less energy is needed to maintain that temperature. Even after an oil-filled heater is turned off, it will continue to radiate heat for up to 30 minutes or more. Next in energy efficiency are infrared space heaters, which use up to 10 percent less energy than space heaters with coils and fans.

Noise Level 

For the most part, space heaters are among the quietest of all small appliances. Space heaters that use radiant heat, either infrared or oil-filled, make virtually no noise. Traditional space heaters with fans will emit an average of 35 to 45 decibels of sound, approximately the same as soft indoor conversation (which could be suitable to use as a white noise machine).

The Advantages of Owning the Best Space Heater

• A good space heater will keep a room’s occupants warm and comfortable, even if the rest of the house is chilly.
• Homeowners and renters can save on heating costs by using a space heater in one room and lowering the thermostat for the rest of the house.
• Many of today’s space heaters come with built-in thermostats, enabling them to keep the room at a consistent and cozy temp.
• Space heaters are portable and can be moved from room to room as necessary.

Tips for Using a Space Heater

Homeowners and renters can save on utility costs by using a space heater in one or more rooms rather than heating the entire home. For the toastiest—and safest—results, check out these useful tips.

• Maintain a 3-foot safety area around the space heater, and do not allow blankets, furniture, draperies, children, or pets within this zone.
• Install both carbon monoxide detectors and smoke alarms in the home when using space heaters, and test them monthly to ensure the batteries and the detectors are working.
• For safety’s sake, it’s important for users to turn off the space heater when leaving the room or going to bed. The exception to this rule is an oil-filled radiant heater, which may be left running. However, consult the owner’s manual, and follow all other safety precautions.
• Never use an extension cord with a space heater. Household extension cords are often not heavy-duty enough to handle the amount of electricity a space heater draws during operation.
• Remember to close the door in the room being heated to keep that toastiness from escaping to hallways and unoccupied areas.

FAQs

Meet the Testers

Stacey L. Nash is a writer and product tester with a background in home and garden products. She’s researched and tested home products for over 5 years. That research is coupled with the practical experience that comes from living life with four kids and a DIY husband on 12 acres that require clearing and upkeep. Now she tests and writes about home appliances, kitchen tools, lighting, cleaning products, and garden tools.

Tom Scalisi is a full-time DIY and construction writer for many of the largest websites in the industry, including BobVila.com, This Old House, Family Handyman, and Forbes as well as his own pest control blog.

Additional research provided by Glenda Taylor.

The post Keep Your Home Warm With a Space Heater appeared first on Bob Vila.

While you can’t change the humidity levels outdoors, you can take steps to control humidity levels inside your home. This can improve your comfort and health, and can even prevent damage to home systems and structures. 

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says that ideal indoor humidity levels should be between 30 percent and 50 percent. Some research suggests that the ideal relative humidity for sleeping is slightly higher, at 40 to 60 percent. Though logic tells us that in desert regions, indoor humidity always falls well below that and soars higher in Southeastern homes, temperature also affects indoor humidity and resulting air quality. “The 30 to 50 percent range is standard. But personal comfort, health, and the season should guide specifics,” says Josh Mitchell, owner of Air Conditioner Lab. 

Effects of High Indoor Humidity

When the humidity is higher than 50 percent, you won’t just feel sticky and uncomfortable; the increased moisture in the air can lead to mold growth, and condensation on windows and toilet tanks. The water droplets that collect can eventually cause the rot and decay of materials in your home, such as flooring and structural elements. 

Effects of Low Indoor Humidity

Inadequate humidity in the house can also cause problems. Low humidity can result in dry skin, nasal irritation and sinus issues, and increased static electricity. Excessively dry air, at 5 percent humidity or less, can also cause wallpaper to peel away and wood furniture and building materials to shrink, which can lead to warping or cracking. Monitoring your home’s moisture levels and keeping them in the ideal indoor humidity range can prevent these things from happening. Our tips for raising humidity levels below can help.

How to Measure Indoor Humidity

To monitor home humidity levels, consider purchasing several inexpensive gauges, such as Pinmu’s Mini Digital Humidity Meters. Position them in different areas of your home, because humidity can vary from room to room. For example, basements are often more humid than other rooms because moisture from the ground can seep through basement walls. 

While hygrometers are the go-to tools for measuring humidity, Mitchell suggests paying close attention to physical signs too. “Consistent condensation on windows, a musty smell, or unusual respiratory responses can all signal high humidity,” Mitchell says. If the humidity is over 50 percent or under 30 percent in one or more areas, try the following solutions to adjust the humidity level at home.

How to Lower Indoor Humidity

To prevent problems like window condensation, mold, and mildew, lower overly humid spaces to the ideal 30 to 50 percent range. Lowering humidity levels also can make the environment less hospitable for some pests, and more comfortable for you and your family.

Replace an old air conditioner.

In addition to cooling indoor air, AC units remove moisture. A central air conditioning unit should last 12 to 15 years before needing replacement, and a window unit should last 8 to 10 years. When air conditioners are older than their predicted useful life, their components can wear out and they may no longer remove humidity efficiently. 

“Regular maintenance is key. I recommend professional servicing every year before summer, regular filter changes (every 30-90 days, depending on use), and keeping the unit and surrounding area clean and free from debris,” Mitchell says. “Also, ensuring the refrigerant level is adequate can prevent overworking the system.”

Use room dehumidifiers.

Air conditioners might not remove enough humidity in high-moisture areas, like finished basements. A supplemental basement dehumidifier, such as the GE 50-Pint Dehumidifier with Built-in Pump, can make even the muggiest areas feel more pleasant.

Cover a dirt basement floor with a vapor barrier.

Most of today’s new homes have poured concrete basement floors, but many houses built before 1950 still have unfinished dirt floors. The moisture in a dirt-floor basement can be as high as 100 percent, depending on the dampness of the soil, and that moisture can filter up into other areas of the home. The solution, in this case, is placing a vapor barrier such as 6-millimeter plastic sheeting over the dirt, and then covering the sheeting with several inches of sand or pea gravel to hold it in place.

Install a bathroom exhaust vent.

As much as you enjoy long, hot showers or baths, all that steam will float out as soon as you open the bathroom door. Run a bathroom exhaust fan, such as the Panasonic WhisperFit exhaust fan, during and after bathing to draw steamy air up, out, and away. (Be sure to determine the right size of bathroom exhaust fan for your needs before purchasing.) 

Consider a whole-home dehumidifier.

When the indoor humidity levels in the entire home are consistently high—if they regularly register higher than 50 percent humidity—it might be time to consider adding a whole-house dehumidifier. “Whole-house dehumidifiers are particularly useful in regions with high humidity levels, such as coastal areas,” says Dan Johnson, vice president at Sanders & Johnson, a heating and cooling service company in Denver, Colorado. Additionally, these systems can help prevent the proliferation of pests such as dust mites and insects.

Whole-house dehumidifiers are designed to regulate and maintain optimal humidity levels throughout a home. They are a part of the home’s central heating and cooling system that can remove excess moisture as air cycles through the main vent system. This type of dehumidifier should be installed by an HVAC professional.

How to Increase Indoor Humidity

If the humidity level at home is too low, add moisture to the air as best you can, especially in the winter. Twenty-five percent humidity in winter is generally considered healthy; aim for the 30 percent threshold the rest of the year. To increase humidity in an overly dry home, you can start with simple household solutions or add humidity as needed with a humidifier.

Increase humidity while doing household tasks.

Those who live in dry climates know that any bit of humidity will benefit indoor air, especially during dry winters. These simple changes can add humidity to your dry home:

• Open the dishwasher after the final rinse cycle and allow the steam to flow out rather than using the dry cycle.
• Keep a large pot of water simmering on the stove or wood stove.
• Air-dry laundry on an indoor clothesline.
• Allow bathwater to cool in the tub before draining it to release moisture into the air. Do this with a sink full of warm dishwater, too.
• Acquire some houseplants, which release moisture into the air through their leaves.
• Keep a fine-mist spray bottle handy and spray the air lightly every hour or so. You don’t want to spray so much that furniture or countertop surfaces become wet; just a light spritz here and there will help raise the humidity level at home.

Use a portable humidifier to relieve skin and respiratory problems.

If a family member suffers from dry nasal passages, sinusitis, or skin irritations, all of which can be aggravated by low humidity, a humidifier can help alleviate symptoms. A portable humidifier like Pure Enrichment’s Mist Aire Ultrasonic Cool Mist Humidifier will introduce soothing moisture to the air and reduce health issues as well as annoying static electricity. This type of humidifier is a great option for bedrooms, living rooms, and nurseries, and might only need to run while sleeping.

Consider a large-room or whole-home humidifier.

In parts of the country, such as areas of Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico, the air can be severely dry all year long and increasing indoor humidity is top of mind most of the year. Homeowners in these regions could also consider installing a large room humidifier to cover more ground or talking with an HVAC professional about whole-home humidifiers.

Switch from forced-air heat to a different heating method.

A standard furnace heats the air and then distributes it throughout the home, but the warming process dries the air and removes humidity. If your house has too little humidity mostly during the winter months, switching from a forced-air heating system to radiant heat will keep the air from drying out. 

Although this is a more expensive solution, it will help those most affected by dry air and can be incorporated into floor replacements or remodels. Radiant heat goes down beneath flooring and behind wall panels, but it’s typically not a DIY job. A professional radiant heating contractor should do the work.

Final Thoughts

The amount of humidity in the air varies from morning until night, from one season to another, and due to weather and other factors. Controlling indoor humidity is not just a comfort issue. It can indirectly affect health by how humidity increases or decreases concentrations of indoor air pollutants. The first step toward a comfortable and healthy relative indoor humidity is a solid measurement. Homeowners can then take simple to major steps to keep the air from being too dry or too damp and to enjoy consistently ideal indoor humidity levels.

The post This Is Your Home’s Ideal Indoor Humidity Level  appeared first on Bob Vila.

When the winter wind blows, there are few things nicer than sitting around a roaring fire. During the colder months, an indoor fireplace is a welcoming centerpiece to the living space, adding warmth and ambiance. However, choosing and installing one is no small task, so it’s key to select one of the best indoor fireplaces the first time around. It’s important to consider the types of fireplaces (many homes will choose between gas and electric fireplaces) as the search begins, along with the style of the room and the planned use of the fireplace. With variety in mind, we’ve rounded up some of the top options available for the season. Keep warm and extra cozy this winter with one of our selections from the best indoor fireplaces. 

1. PuraFlame Klaus 33″ Electric Fireplace Insert

The PuraFlame Klaus 33″ Electric Fireplace Insert tops our list for the best electric fireplace inserts. Its antique design is a standout feature, with a realistic-looking resin log and flames that warm the space with the sounds of a crackling fire, a brick wall interior, glass doors, and a mesh screen, all of which make it look like a real fireplace. Since it’s an electric insert, it’s easy to install, fitting into an existing fireplace opening. Choose between a 750- and 1500-watt heating modes to make a living space nice and cozy while minding the electric bill. 

Get the PuraFlame Klaus 33″ Electric Fireplace Insert at Amazon for $329.99

2. US Stove Cast-Iron Log Wood Stove

Pleasantly rustic and user-friendly, the US Stove Cast-Iron Log Wood Stove is ideal for homes that want a log-burning wood stove. This reliable model is one of the best wood stoves from the top wood stove brands. It quickly heats up to 900 square feet of space with a heavy-duty cast iron body that’s large enough to fit logs up to 19 inches long. The handle stays cool to the touch for safety, and with an integrated cooktop, it’s lovely for cabins. 

Get the US Stove Cast-Iron Log Wood Stove on Amazon for $402.12

3. ProCom Universal Ventless Firebox

For those looking to install a gas fireplace, consider the ProCom Universal Ventless Firebox, one of our picks in our best gas fireplace insert guide. Pair it with a 18- to 24-inch ventless gas log set to make a customizable hearth. This firebox has a slim design so it’s possible to install in tight spaces. It also comes with a draw screen, hood, and decorative brick liner. 

Get the ProCom Universal Ventless Firebox at Amazon for $459.99

4. Solo Stove TerraFlame Gel Fuel Fireplace

When we tested the best chimineas, the Solo Stove TerraFlame Gel Fuel Fireplace performed beautifully and came out as our top pick for outdoor and indoor use. Its freestanding design is ideal for homes that can’t install a permanent indoor fireplace but still want a real flame. In testing this product, we found it very easy to use (it doesn’t require venting) and enjoyed its mid-century modern design. 

What our tester says: “For someone who wants an indoor fire but doesn’t want the trouble of venting the unit, this fireplace is a big deal. I tested this attractive fireplace inside my home and outdoors, and I was impressed.”—Glenda Taylor, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Solo Stove TerraFlame Gel Fuel Fireplace at Amazon for $600.00

5. Osburn 1700 Wood Insert

It’s hard to beat the beauty of a traditional wood-burning indoor fireplace. If that’s your ideal setup, the Osburn 1700 Wood Insert (our pick for the best wood burning fireplace insert) is an excellent choice. It’s efficient (it’s EPA-certified), with a blower to distribute heat through rooms up to 1,800 square feet. It’s made of heavy-duty carbon steel and lined with refractory bricks (brick formulated to withstand very high temperatures) to ensure its durability for long term use once it’s installed. 

Get the Osburn 1700 Wood Insert at Fireplaces Direct for $2,799

6. Aquafire Pro

Fire from water? The Aquafire Pro makes it happen. Like other electric fireplaces, this one has a faux flame, offering the look of an indoor fireplace without the dangers of real fire. It uses a fine mist of water and LED lights to make realistic-looking flames that change color using the included remote or smartphone app. This easy-to-install insert is for aesthetic effect only; it doesn’t produce heat like many other electric fireplaces. 

Find a dealer for Aquafire Pro at Aquafire.com

7. Duraflame 3D Infrared Electric Fireplace Stove Heater

With safe faux flames and a freestanding design, an electric fireplace heater provides the comfort of an indoor fireplace without the hassle of installation. The Duraflame 3D Infrared Electric Fireplace Stove Heater is a standalone electric heater that’s designed to look like a fireplace. Hailing from the reputable Duraflame brand, this fireplace heater offers the flickering glowy ambiance of an indoor fire as well as the warmth, heating rooms up to 1,000 square feet. 

Get the Duraflame 3D Infrared Electric Fireplace Stove Heater at Amazon for $229.99

8. Duraflame Electric Log Set

The Duraflame Electric Log Set is a shortcut that brings an older fireplace back to life without requiring renovation. As an electric product, it doesn’t create a real fire. However, placed in an old fireplace nook with a nearby outlet, it offers a warm glow, realistic-looking logs, and heat, and takes the chill off of an otherwise-empty space that’s impossible to decorate. Because it’s just a log set, it’s even easier to install than an insert. Despite its small and basic build, it throws off a decent amount of heat, suitable for rooms up to 1,000 square feet. The crackling wood fire sounds add to the atmosphere. 

Get the Duraflame Electric Log Set at Amazon for $179.99

9. Real Flame Silverton 48″ Electric Fireplace 

The Real Flame Silverton 48″ Electric Fireplace includes a mantel, so it’s another easy-to-install option for those who’d prefer not to undertake renovation work. This product is an electric fireplace (so it’s safe and flameless) that includes a full mantel housing with a wood finish. It plugs into a standard outlet. Installed on an empty wall space, it creates the appearance of a built-in fireplace without building a chimney, firebox, or mantel, and can change the entire appearance of a room.

Get the Real Flame Silverton 48″ Electric Fireplace at Wayfair for $558

10. Ameriwood Home Farmington Electric Fireplace Console

The Ameriwood Home Farmington Electric Fireplace Console is an indoor fireplace option that is ideal for renters and anyone else that can’t install an actual wood- or gas-burning unit. It’s a rustic-style TV console with an electric fireplace built in. Users can choose between 11 heat settings and 4 brightness levels, so it’s actually much easier to control than an actual fire. This indoor fireplace console can heat rooms up to 400 square feet and is suitable for many living rooms. 

Get the Ameriwood Home Farmington Electric Fireplace Console at Amazon for $344.21

11. R.W.Flame 68″ Recessed Wall Electric Fireplace Heater

The R.W.Flame 68″ Recessed Wall Electric Fireplace Heater is fabulous for modern homes, with a sleek look and slim design that’s intended to wall mount or recess into a wall. It has a distinctly modern look, so may not fit as well into farmhouse or cottage decor, but it provides bright, colorful faux flames. Users adjust the colors and speed of the flickering with a remote control or touch screen, and a timer feature means that the unit can turn off automatically for safety. . 

Get the R.W.Flame 68″ Recessed Wall Electric Fireplace Heater at Amazon for $399.99

12. Heat & Glo Escape See-Through Gas Fireplace

See-through fireplaces are so beautiful and provide fireplace access in two rooms at once. The Heat & Glo Escape See-Through Gas Fireplace is an excellent example. Depending on the location of installation, it can be modernist or traditional in appearance, and creates warmth and visual appeal through the wall between two rooms. It’s large, minimalist, and has anti-reflective glass so it’s sure to be a centerpiece in any two rooms. 

Get the Heat & Glo Escape See-Through Gas Fireplace at Fireplaces.com starting at $11,477

The post The 12 Best Indoor Fireplaces for Cozying Up this Winter appeared first on Bob Vila.

Most garages aren’t designed to stay warm inside when outdoor temperatures are frigid. Garages usually lack insulation, and their concrete floors remain chilly all year around. Even with a small space heater running, the temperature inside the garage probably won’t rise more than a few degrees.

When the air inside your garage is bitterly cold, it’s not just the DIYer who doesn’t function well: Tools are icy, paints and glues won’t bond properly, and automotive repairs and woodworking tasks can be difficult to complete. To be able to tinker in your garage in all seasons, not just the warm ones, combine some of these tips for heating the garage to a comfortable temperature. You’ll have a productive work space, whatever the weather.

1. Choose a portable space heater (or two) that’s properly sized for the garage’s square footage.

Visit your local home improvement store in late fall, and you’ll find aisles of portable energy-efficient space heaters, both large and small. Most of these options, however, aren’t powerful enough to heat an entire garage. If you’re looking for a serious heat source, consider installing a ceiling-mounted forced-air heating unit such as the hardwired Dr. Infrared 7,500-Watt Garage Heater, or Comfort Zone Garage Heater, confirming, of course, that the heater model you choose is adequately sized for the square footage of your garage. This type of heater is best situated in a corner of the garage, pointed downward at a 45-degree angle to provide the best distribution of warmth. Most of today’s ceiling-mounted garage heaters come with a remote control and a thermostat so you can set the temperature you prefer and rely on the shop heater to do the rest. For other terrific heater options, refer to our tested guide to the best garage heaters.

The only real downside to a ceiling-mounted heater is that the inches nearest the floor may remain cold. If your feet are still chilly, try supplementing with a baseboard heater placed where you’re most apt to be working—one likely spot is the area beneath your workbench. Hydronic baseboard heaters like the Slant/Fin Fine/Line 30 Series Hot Water Baseboard Heater are hooked up to a home’s boiler. As hot water runs through the pipes in the heater, warm air radiates out into the space, keeping things toasty at floor level and beyond.

2. Insulate the walls with fiberglass batt and paneling.

No matter how much power your garage heater packs, you’ll find it difficult to maintain comfortable warmth in your garage if the walls aren’t finished. Many garage walls consist of just the studs, covered on the outside with sheathing and siding. Without garage insulation, cold air outside will quickly transfer to the inside of the garage and detract from your heating efforts.

Insulating a garage is a project that’s easy enough for most homeowners to take on themselves. To create an insulated barrier, install fiberglass batt insulation (such as Johns Manville R-19 fiberglass batt insulation) in each stud space and then finish the interior walls by installing drywall panels, plywood sheets, or oriented strand board (OSB). Insulated and finished walls will help retain heat in the garage, and you’ll save money on heating bills.

3. Insulate the garage door.

Often manufactured from thin metal, garage doors are notoriously cold in winter. In fact, if you live in a northern climate, it’s not unusual to find frost clinging to the inside of a metal garage door. Insulating the garage door will help keep the cold outside air from transferring indoors and cooling the workshop. An insulated garage door can make the space an average of 10 to 12 degrees warmer in winter, even before you crank up any heaters. And the process isn’t so intimidating for do-it-yourselfers, thanks to kits like Reach Barrier’s Garage Door Insulation Kit, which contain all of the necessary supplies. When selecting a garage door insulation kit, be sure to measure your doors carefully. While the Reach Barrier kit will insulate one standard garage door, garages with oversize doors (or two or more doors) will require additional kits.

4. Seal gaps and drafts.

Investing in insulation and heaters will help you keep your garage comfortable in the winter, but you should also seal any gaps that let cold drafts blow through. To get started, take a walk around your garage, focusing on these three most likely sources of drafts.

• The garage door frame: Garage doors don’t fit tightly in their frames—small gaps run all the way around the door. Fortunately, you can quickly address these spots with an integrated weather-strip seal like M-D Building Products’ Vinyl Garage Door Top and Sides Seal. The self-adhesive strips will help close the gaps so cold drafts can’t enter.
• The bottom of the door: If your garage door is more than a couple of years old, it’s also a good idea to replace the seal, or garage door threshold, where the door meets the floor. This seal is designed to block drafts but can become brittle and cracked over time, and start to let the cold air in. Gaskets are available in various sizes to fit different size doors. Measure the width of your door carefully before you choose a replacement such as DGSL’s Bottom Rubber Weather Stripping Kit.
• Windows: To seal drafty windows, apply shrink-type film to the inside of the windows. To install the 3M Window Insulator Kit or other top picks from our tested guide to the best window insulating kits, tape the shrink wrap to the window frame and then use a hair dryer to heat the film until it fits snugly to the frame, sealing out drafts.

5. Install a radiant floor heating system.

If you enjoy working on your car in your garage, you probably dread having to lie on a frigid concrete floor while changing oil or making repairs. One effective way to remedy this problem is to install a radiant floor heating system. Unfortunately, this is a viable solution only for those who are building a new garage or are planning to tear out and replace an existing garage floor. Radiant floor heating is installed before the concrete floor is poured. The installation process is roughly as follows:

• First, a reflective liner is installed over fill sand in the bottom of the excavated area, 
• Flexible piping is positioned in loops over the liner
• The concrete is poured
• The radiant heating system is connected to the boiler, which circulates hot water through the pipes, radiating heat to the floor and the objects above.

If you spend a lot of time in your garage and are thinking of renovating it, this solution may be right for you. It’s not a DIY project. You’ll need to hire a plumber who specializes in installing radiant floor heating systems. The cost to install radiant floor heating is usually about $5 to $9 per square foot for installation, plus the cost of the boiler. The resulting system is ideal for heating a garage workshop: It warms the space without blowing wood chips and dust around as forced-air heating would, keeping your workspace clear of particles that might interfere with detail work.

6. Run a portable propane heater.

Many houses are connected to natural gas lines, but garages often aren’t, and that leaves homeowners with fewer options for heating their garages.

Electric heating is almost always a possibility, but in many regions electricity is pricey. Electric garage heaters also pull a lot of juice, which can cause circuits to overload and breakers to trip, particularly if you’re running a few tools at the same time. Also, relying on electric heat may require additional electrical circuits. For all of these reasons, using a propane heater for the garage may be a reasonably priced alternative. (For our recommended manufacturers and models, read our tested guide to the best propane heaters.)

A standard, 20-pound propane tank can power a small propane heater. If that’s not enough heat, you can opt for a larger 500-gallon tank and have a plumber run a gas line to the garage to fuel a larger propane gas garage heater. Where venting isn’t possible, look for a vent-free propane heater that’s designed to burn cleanly and safely.

7. Warm up with a wood-burning stove.

For those who plan on spending a lot of time in a garage workshop during the colder months, it’s tough to beat the soothing warmth of a wood-burning stove. Not only will a wood burning stove provide heat, but it also adds a cozy ambience to the space. If you have a ready source of wood, this can be among the best options for cheap heat. (Our researched guide to the best wood stoves highlights high-quality stoves at a variety of price points.)

Safety considerations should be top of mind if you decide to install a wood-burning stove in a garage. The stove must be positioned on a nonflammable surface—a concrete garage floor is ideal—and located a safe distance from walls, cabinets, and any flammable or combustible items. Models vary, however, and some of the newer wood-burning stoves feature insulated exterior shells that don’t get dangerously hot.

It’s important to note that a wood stove must be appropriately vented to keep smoke from backing up in the garage. Local building codes come into play here and usually require that a triple-wall stovepipe be installed vertically through the ceiling. Check with your local building authority for additional restrictions.

8. Concentrate heat with a kerosene space heater.

Electric space heaters are great for supplemental heating during cold weather, but if a space heater will be the only source of heat in a garage, it should be a powerful one. A kerosene-powered heater fits the bill.

This type of space heater, often called a “torpedo” or “salamander,” generates a lot of heat and concentrates it in a specific direction, so a craftsperson or mechanic at work in the garage can stay nice and warm. Because these heaters often have fans that run on electricity, you’ll still need an electric outlet to run it, but the heat itself is generated by kerosene.

Kerosene space heaters, such as the Dyna-Glo 50,000 BTU Forced Air Heater, a top performer in our tested guide to the top non-electric heaters, can generate up to 215,000 BTUs. That’s a heck of a lot of heat! When selecting a kerosene heater for a garage, buy one that’s designed for indoor use to ensure that it won’t emit toxic fumes. Kerosene torpedo heaters designed for outdoor use may not burn as cleanly, and they are not intended for use in closed spaces. Make sure the model you choose is properly sized for the space in which it’ll be used.

9. Radiate heat.

Some types of heaters blow out hot air that warms up a space, but radiant heat works a bit differently, and it’s among the best options for heating a garage on a chilly day.

Radiant heaters use infrared energy that’s generated in a number of ways, via a heating element, an infrared lamp, or even actual flames. The way they work, however, is fundamentally different from forced-air heat. Imagine standing outdoors on a cold day. When the sun comes out, you immediately feel its warmth—that’s radiant heat—even though the air temperature may not have risen perceptibly.

In a garage or workshop, radiant heaters can be installed overhead or on walls. The Comfort Zone CZQTV5M Ceiling Mounted Radiant Quartz Heater uses two quartz bulbs and a reflective base to radiate heat outward, where it will make you, and everything around you, warm. You’ll be able to work comfortably no matter how cold it gets outside and, thanks to the heater’s built-in halogen light bulb, you’ll be able to see whatever’s on your workbench.

10. Extend your mini-split system setup into the garage.

For homeowners who already have a ductless mini-split air conditioning system for heating and cooling, it should be fairly easy to add an indoor air-handling unit to your system if the compressor you have is large enough to handle heating and cooling an additional “room.” If you don’t already have a mini-split system, purchasing a mini-split compressor and indoor unit for your garage is still a terrific option, but doing so will cost you more than a few space heaters will.

11. Reduce thermal transfer with a floor covering.

While heaters and insulation will certainly help keep the air in your garage warmer during the winter, there’s one zone that will still feel frigid: the garage floor. Concrete floors can be bitterly cold, particularly so for anyone who has to scoot under a car or kneel on the floor to work on a project.

Covering the floor is the simplest solution to cold concrete: Consider putting down an indoor/outdoor rug that can be vacuumed or blown clean with a leaf blower. To make a hard concrete floor more comfortable, you might instead install interlocking rubber mats—the kind that’s used for the best gym flooring. These mats both insulate the floor and pad it, making it easier to be on your feet for long periods of time.

The post How to Heat a Garage: 11 Ways to Keep Your Workshop Warm in Winter appeared first on Bob Vila.

I love the look and feel of a real fire, but installing a wood-burning stove or fireplace requires a complete chimney system for safety and ventilation. A pellet stove, on the other hand, can often be vented horizontally out an exterior wall, which means fewer structural changes. Plus, pellets burn cleaner than wood, producing less creosote and ash. 

There are many pellet stoves on the market, but the Comfortbilt Alpine HP42 stood out because it comes with a whopping 120-pound hopper capacity. Instead of having to remember to fill the hopper daily, I can fill it once and it won’t run out for days, depending on how often it’s burning. That means one less thing to worry about and more time for myself. Keep reading to learn more about this high-capacity pellet stove (including my DIY installation) and whether the Comfortbilt pellet stove is the right choice for your heating needs.  

Comfort Alpine HP42 Pellet Stove: At a Glance

Our rating: 4.8/5

Comfort Alpine HP42 Pellet Stove

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Testing the Comfortbilt Pellet Stove

I tested the Comfortbilt HP42 the same way any DIY enthusiast would—I installed it, turned it on, and enjoyed the ambiance and warmth. Since pellet stoves are frequently do-it-yourself projects, I paid special attention to the instructions that came with the stove to see if all steps were included and easy to follow. 

In addition to thoroughly enjoying the mesmerizing flames and radiant warmth, I noted how long it took the hopper to run out of pellets. I operated the stove using both the control panel and the included remote control. The one thing I didn’t do—but likely will in the near future—is connect the HP42 to a smart thermostat for even easier control. Yes, that’s doable!

The most enjoyable part of the test was relaxing by the stove for several hours while reading a book, napping, and sipping eggnog. Now that I think about it, I should probably continue that aspect of testing for a few more weeks. You can never over-test, after all.

Installation Process

If you’re concerned about installing the Comfortbilt pellet stove, by all means, have a pro do it. It’s always better to seek help if you’re unfamiliar with basic construction techniques. However, the installation instructions that come with the stove are simple to follow. They walked me through every step and had several images I could compare as I progressed.

I cut a hole through my exterior wall, and that’s probably the most challenging part—not because cutting is hard, but because it’s essential to measure the location of the vent pipe on the back of the stove precisely and transfer that measurement to the wall to get the hole in the correct spot. This is where the old carpenter saying, “Measure twice, cut once,” is good advice. The last thing you want to do is cut the hole in the wrong spot, especially on the exterior of your home. You’ll also need to avoid hitting studs, wires, and pipes. 

I had to buy a few supplies for the installation: a heat-rated vent pipe, an appliance adapter that connects the pipe and the stove, a wall thimble that offers heat protection around the vent pipe, and an exterior termination cap with a built-in spark arrestor. 

In many cases (including mine), the pellet stove can be vented horizontally through an exterior wall. It’s the simplest and most straightforward venting method and perfectly safe. 

However, you can also install the HP42 on an interior wall. To do so, you’ll need to run a vertical vent through the roof. That’s a little more complicated, but the same safe-venting principles apply. The instruction manual for the pellet stove offers diagrams of several different venting methods. I strongly recommend downloading the HP42 User Manual before purchasing the pellet stove to see the options. If you’re unfamiliar with local building codes, check with your community building authority to determine if you need to do anything else prior to installation. 

Hopper Capacity and Convenience

The Comfortbilt Alpine HP42 has a massive 120-pound pellet hopper just over 2 feet deep! That’s the largest hopper I’ve seen on a pellet stove—many have smaller hoppers that require refilling on a daily or twice-daily basis. Ultimately, the amount of pellets you use, and how often you need to refill, will depend on the home’s insulation, room size, and outdoor temperature. I filled the hopper, set the temperature on the HP42 to 68 degrees F, and didn’t need to refill for three days. That’s very convenient.

I could change the temperature directly from the mounted control panel or the remote control. The control panel also features a child lock, making the HP42 a good option for families with small children. 

A separate wired thermostat can be connected to the pellet stove, which would make it even more convenient, and the HP42 comes with a removable ash pan that lifts out of the firebox for easy cleanup. I have an ash vacuum, so I used that to suck the ashes out. 

Performance and Efficiency 

Without a doubt, the Comfortbilt pellet stove is a wonderful source of warmth and ambiance. It can produce up to 42,370 BTU of heat per hour, and one of the nicest things is an internal fan that disperses the heat outward so the whole room warms up. With other non-central heat sources I’ve had, including a wood-burning stove and wood fireplace, the warmth was always greatest near the source, but across the room, it could still be chilly. The HP42 distributes the warm air evenly.

The pellet stove is rated for spaces up to 2,800 square feet, making it well-suited to large open areas and great rooms. And it comes with an EPA certified efficiency rating of 86 percent overall and 87.5 percent on Low. 

The Comfortbilt HP42–High-Capacity Heating at a Mid-Range Price

Currently, the HP42 sells for $1,299 on Amazon and from a handful of other retailers. That’s right in line, price-wise, with other similar pellet stoves. The most significant differences are the expansive coverage area and the large-capacity hopper, which makes it possible to go longer without refilling. That’s a big deal for me because I don’t have the time to babysit a pellet stove and add pellets every few hours. 

While I can’t attest to how easy other pellet stoves are to install, the HP42 is about as easy as it gets for someone with basic carpentry and remodeling skills. 

Buy the Comfortbilt Pellet Stove on:

• Amazon for $1,299
• Lowes for $1,299
• The Home Depot for $1,299
• Comfortbilt for $1,299

Product Comparisons

Is the Comfortbilt Alpine HP42 right for you?

The HP42 is a good option for someone looking for a reliable, easy-to-use heating solution that doesn’t require an extensive chimney system. It’s efficient, and its powerful fan distributes heat throughout large open spaces. 

The Comfortbilt pellet stove is especially useful for busy homeowners who don’t have the time to monitor the stove and add pellets frequently. My favorite feature on the HP42 is the 120-pound pellet hopper that holds double or even triple the pellets other stoves hold. That means fewer refills and more time to do the things I want to do. 

If you have a working knowledge of construction, you shouldn’t have any trouble installing this pellet stove, but check local codes first, just to be on the safe side. Call a professional to help with installation if necessary.

The HP42 keeps a large space toasty, but if you live in a temperate zone or are on a tight budget, you can find a less expensive model that will suit your needs. For me, the Comfortbilt Alpine HP42 is the right choice. It puts out enough heat to warm my space, I don’t have to refill the pellets every few hours, and it offers genuine flames without the hassle. 

Meet the Tester

Glenda Taylor is a contractor, product tester, and writer focusing primarily on construction, tools, and home appliances.

The post Installing This Pellet Stove Was The Best Decision I’ve Made This Winter appeared first on Bob Vila.

Insulation is a key component for home heating and cooling efficiency, which is why it is commonly installed in the walls and attics of most new homes and regularly replaced in existing homes. Blown-in insulation is a popular option because it fills the crevices and gaps, reducing drafts and improving home energy efficiency, though some DIYers may add loose fill insulation to increase the R-value of the existing insulation or deal with irregularly shaped areas of the home. 

Cellulose attic insulation is one of the most frequently installed types of blown-in insulation, though you can also install cellulose insulation in walls to slow the transfer of heat into and out of the home. The R-value of cellulose insulation tends to be higher than comparable materials, and it’s often less expensive as well. Because of this, cellulose insulation has been growing in popularity. Use this informative guide to learn more about cellulose insulation and the benefits it can bring to your home. 

1. Cellulose insulation is primarily made of recycled paper products.

One of the best features of cellulose insulation is that it’s a green material that is made primarily from 80 to 85 percent recycled paper products, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Most of this percentage is made up of old newsprint and similar paper materials that are first reduced to small pieces before being fiberized to create one of the best attic insulation options available.

To help mitigate cellulose insulation dangers, the fiberized material is then treated with fire-resistant and insect-resistant mineral borate, which can sometimes be blended with ammonium sulfate for a more affordable finished product. This combination creates an energy-efficient insulation that can be blown into attics and walls for quality insulation that can last for decades.

2. Cellulose insulation is typically used in attics and walls of new and existing homes.

When you are considering different types of insulation for the home, it’s important to know where each type of insulation is best suited for use. In most cases, cellulose insulation is installed in the attics and walls of new homes, though it can also be blown into finished walls without needing to remove the drywall, making it a fast, effective way to add to existing insulation or to replace old insulation materials.

The main reason for installing cellulose insulation in these areas of the home is because of the affordable cellulose insulation cost, high R-value, and various insulation methods that make it easier for professionals to install. Additionally, the fire-resistant and pest-resistant nature of the material helps to protect the home and deter unwanted invaders. 

3. Cellulose insulation is most commonly installed by being blown in.

Cellulose insulation can be installed using the loose-fill method in which the installer or DIYer simply blows the insulation into an open attic using a blowing machine. This method is effective for fast and easy installations in open areas, but the loose-fill cellulose does not have the same R-value as dense-fill cellulose.

For dense-fill installation you need to use a specialized cellulose insulation blower with a smaller hose that results in a much higher density of insulation with minimal air pockets. This type of blown-in insulation is commonly used to fill wall cavities and enclosed finished spaces, though it can also be installed behind netting that is stapled over building cavities. 

Similarly, some installers may use the damp spraying method to install cellulose insulation by adding a small amount of moisture to the spray nozzle tip, which activates the natural starches in cellulose, causing it to adhere to the inside of the cavity.

4. Cellulose is an efficient, affordable alternative to other types of insulation.

When cellulose is contrasted with other types of insulation, it’s common to see one-for-one comparisons between cellulose vs. fiberglass insulation because both materials are affordable and widely used in the residential building industry. Similarly, the R-value, cost, and installation difficulty of blown-in insulation vs. spray-foam insulation are often compared when homeowners are trying to decide on the best insulating material to add to their home. 

During these comparisons, most homeowners come to find that cellulose is an energy-efficient material with low environmental impact that is designed to be both fire-resistant and pest-resistant. Additionally, cellulose can be injected directly into finished walls or blown over existing fiberglass batts, and it has a relatively affordable cost that makes it a great choice for homeowners on a budget. 

5. Cellulose insulation has an R-value of R-3.2 to R-3.8 per inch.

Deciding between several different types of insulation can be difficult, especially if you don’t know what R-value is or how it impacts the quality of the insulation. R-value is essentially the measurement of how much heat resistance the material has per inch of depth. With this in mind, you can compare the average cellulose insulation R-value, which ranges from R-3.2 to R-3.8 per inch to other common insulation materials to help decide on the right insulation for your home.

Fiberglass insulation is a popular choice for residential properties; however, while it does have an affordable cost, the average R-value is just R-2.2 to R-2.9 per inch. Mineral wool insulation is a better choice, ranging from R-3.0 to R-3.3 per inch, while spray-foam insulation can vary depending on the specific type used, with a minimum average R-value of R-3.5 per inch and a maximum average R-value of R-6.5 per inch.

6. Blown-in cellulose insulation can be hazardous if not installed properly.

While there are many great benefits to installing cellulose insulation, it’s important not to overlook the potential hazards of this material, especially if it is not installed correctly. Since cellulose insulation is treated with fire-resistant and pest-resistant compounds, airborne fibers can cause respiratory problems, eye irritation, or skin irritation, which is why installers need to wear appropriate protective equipment during the installation process.

Also, if the insulation is installed over vents or too close to sources of ignition, there is an increased risk of the cellulose insulation catching fire, despite the fire-resistant treatment. This is especially true if the insulation is densely packed around electrical components and flammable materials. 

Additionally, since cellulose is hygroscopic, it soaks up and holds water, so if there are any leaks that go undetected, the cellulose insulation will soak up the excess water, causing it to sag or become compressed within the framing cavities. Exposure to water also has the potential to make the chemical components of cellulose insulation corrosive, which can lead to extensive damages in the attic and inside the walls. 

7. Cellulose insulation is naturally biodegradable.

After installing cellulose insulation, you can expect it to last for 20 to 30 years before it will need to be replaced. The old cellulose insulation will begin to naturally decompose as it reaches the end of this two to three decade lifespan, whereas other insulating materials, like fiberglass or foam, will continue to persist in landfills for significantly longer.

However, it’s important to keep in mind that cellulose insulation is treated with fire-resistant and pest-resistant compounds. The biodegradability of cellulose insulation depends on the specific type of treatment, though most cellulose material uses boric acid as a fire retardant, which is considered to be biodegradable and can even help with healthy plant growth. For this reason, cellulose insulation is widely considered a green material that is eco-friendly and naturally biodegradable, reducing your carbon footprint and household waste.

The post 7 Things Homeowners Should Know About Cellulose Insulation appeared first on Bob Vila.

Nearly half of all home heating fires take place between December and February, according to the National Fire Protection Association. Surprisingly, fireplaces are not causing the heaviest losses. Between 2018 and 2022, space heaters and heating stoves caused 46 percent of the fires but 76 percent of deaths related to home heating.

Since space heaters can be an integral part of an efficient home heating plan, space heater safety is a vital priority this winter to mitigate these fire risks. So how do you avoid a house fire? Know the most common–and costly–mistakes people make with portable heaters, and don’t repeat them in your own home.

1. DON’T crowd your space heater.

Give your space heater a wide berth, particularly around textiles. Space heaters and fabrics of any type are a deadly combo. “Keep your space heater at least 3 to 5 feet away from any fabric items such as furniture, bedding, curtains, rugs or anything flammable,” says Todd Tripp, general contractor and home improvement expert with JustAnswer. In fact, space heater fires are most commonly caused by some sort of fabric, including clothing, upholstered furniture, or even mattresses, that comes in contact with or sits too close to the heater.

2. DON’T place the heater on furniture.

Don’t set your space heater on top of a dresser, table, or other piece of furniture. An accidental bump or a curious cat could knock the heater to the floor, leading to a burn injury or a fire hazard. “Space heaters should not be placed on furniture or countertops, even if your countertop is a flat surface. That placement could pose a variety of risks to your home,” says Mollie Treloar, heating expert at Tractor Supply. The furniture or countertop could also be damaged, especially if the surface is not heat-resistant. “Additionally, elevated surfaces like furniture or countertops often offer more restricted airflow than the floor does, which may lead to overheating,” Treloar adds.

“If you don’t have any hard surface flooring, [place] your heater on a stable, non-flammable surface… [such as] ceramic tiles or a heat resistant mat.”

Mollie Treloar, heating expert at Tractor Supply

3. DON’T put the heater on a carpet or area rug.

Not only must your space heater sit on the floor, but it’s safe only when the floor is a hard surface. Never place a space heater on top of an area rug or carpeting. They tend to trap heat and could ignite if they get warm enough. “Having carpeted floors can make using a space heater tricky, but that doesn’t mean it’s not possible,” Treloar says. “If you don’t have any hard surface flooring, then placing your heater on a stable, non-flammable surface is the best bet for safety. This could be ceramic tiles or a heat resistant mat. Just make sure the surface is bigger than the heater’s base, and set it on a level spot to prevent tipping.”

4. And NEVER run cords under the rug.

It’s a common scenario: You want the space heater close enough to chase away the chill, but the nearest electrical outlet is all the way across the room. You consider running the space heater’s cord underneath an area rug. Don’t do it! Running the cord under the rug introduces the much graver danger of fire. “The rug covering the cord can trap any heat generated by the cord during use and increase risk of overheating and fires,” Treloar says. “The rug fibers can also cause damage to the cord over time and lead to malfunction and spark risk. Also, the cord covered by the rug can pose a major trip hazard to your family and pets as they would not be able to see it while walking.”

5. DON’T use an extension cord.

As with any appliance or device that generates heat, never plug a space heater into an extension cord or a power strip. The high power demand of the space heater can cause the extension cord or power strip to short-circuit or overheat, potentially causing a fire. Instead, always plug your space heater directly into a wall outlet, and don’t plug anything else into the same outlet while the space heater is running.

6. DON’T leave pets or kids in the room unattended.

The pleasant warmth of a space heater is like a magnet for cats, but a curious—or chilly—dog may also be attracted. Though they may want to hang out near the device, never leave pets unattended in any room with a running space heater. Turn the space heater off when you leave the room.

7. DON’T expose the heater to moisture.

It might be tempting to use a space heater to warm up your bathroom while you shower, but resist the urge. “Because of a bathroom’s increased humidity and proximity to water, you have to take extra precautions with your space heater,” Treloar says. “Take care to use a model specifically designed for the bathroom, and make sure you place your heater far enough away from your sink, shower, or bathtub to eliminate the risk of water damage or splashing.” 

8. DON’T run a space heater overnight.

Leaving your space heater running all night long while you sleep is a no-no. “Space heaters need to be respected as a highly flammable appliance,” Tripp says. If the unit overheats, tips over, or short-circuits overnight, a fire could break out while you’re fast asleep. Use the heater to warm up your room before bed, and then switch it off right before you slide between the sheets.

9. DON’T forget to check for certification.

Before buying a space heater, check that it’s been certified. “Space heaters with a UL (Underwriters Laboratory), CSA (Canadian Standards Association), and ETL (Intertek) should only be used,” Tripp says. “Space heaters with one of these certifications have been tested and approved for safety electrically and fire hazards.” Normally, the certification will be indicated on the space heater’s packaging. These organizations perform rigorous tests to ensure that home electronics are as safe as possible.

“Any strange sounds, such as rattling or buzzing, or unusual smells, like burning or electrical odors, are immediate red flags. These could indicate internal damage or potential fire hazards.”

Mollie Treloar, heating expert at Tractor Supply

10. DON’T use a secondhand space heater.

Found a space heater bargain at your local thrift store or neighborhood garage sale? Just walk away. While there are some electronic devices you can get secondhand and use with some safety precautions, space heaters should never be one of them. The certification sticker could be missing or never have existed. The wiring could be frayed, internal parts could be damaged, and it’s nearly impossible to determine how old a space heater is outside of the box. Using old or damaged space heaters is a recipe for disaster.

11. DON’T continue using a space heater when it’s old or damaged.

While just about all of today’s space heaters have multiple safety features, including an auto shut-off if the unit gets too hot, tips over, or runs for too long, that’s not true of space heaters made a decade or more ago. “If it’s over 10 years old, it may lack modern safety features and efficiency,” Treloar says. She says that signs the heating elements are wearing out include taking longer to heat up a room or not heating as effectively as the unit used to. Other reasons to look for a replacement: “Any strange sounds, such as rattling or buzzing, or unusual smells, like burning or electrical odors, are immediate red flags. These could indicate internal damage or potential fire hazards. Also, any signs of physical damage, such as cracks in the casing, frayed cords, or scorch marks. These are clear indicators that the heater is no longer safe to use and should be replaced,” she says.

12. NEVER put the space heater in front of a doorway or egress point. 

Nothing should ever block the doorway of your bedroom or the route you would need to take from your bed to that doorway in an emergency—especially not something that gets scalding hot. To keep you safe from dangerous trips and tumbles, your space heater needs to be positioned at least a couple of feet to the side of any doorway, path, or high-traffic area of your home.

13. DON’T put things on top of your space heater.

You might think the space heater is the perfect spot to dry those snowy mittens, but you’d be dangerously wrong. “Space heaters are designed to heat spaces, not to dry clothing, and using them for this purpose can pose significant safety risks,” Treloar says. “Clothing that is placed too close to a space heater can overheat and potentially catch fire, especially draping clothing over a space heater to dry it faster. Draping can block air vents and cause the heater to overheat, increasing the likelihood of a malfunction or fire.” The same is true for storing items on top of your heater. “Modern space heaters are built with overheating protection safety features, but these are not foolproof and should not be relied upon if the heater is being used inappropriately.”

14. DON’T run propane space heaters without ventilation.

Non-electric space heaters, such as propane space heaters, can release carbon monoxide when in use. To operate these heaters safely, place them in a well-ventilated area or outdoors on a patio. “You should also choose a model equipped with safety features like an oxygen depletion sensor (ODS), which shuts the heater off if oxygen levels fall too low,” Treloar adds. “Finally, when refueling, users should also take care to choose the correct fuel type for their heater and always let the space heater cool before refueling to minimize fire risk.

The post 14 Space Heater Safety Mistakes That Could Burn Down Your House appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you want to use your gas fireplace to keep your home warm and cozy this winter, the first step is knowing how to use it properly. While gas fireplaces aren’t overly complicated to operate, they require some key steps to work. Some models have an electric ignition. If your gas fireplace has a switch on the wall or a remote control, it likely falls into this category, and you can light it by simply pressing a button or flipping a switch. However, lighting all gas fireplaces is not so straightforward. Ahead, we’ll explain how to light a gas fireplace with a control panel, as well as the steps to follow for models that have a key.

Safety Precautions

Before delving into how to start a gas fireplace, note some important safety precautions you should take. Remember, gas fireplaces are fueled by natural gas. If you ever suspect that gas might be leaking, vacate your home immediately, and call 911. The Indiana Utility Regulatory Commission outlines some of the warning signs of a gas leak, including a hissing sound or a strong sulfur or rotten egg smell in the home. Installing carbon monoxide detectors in your home—and testing them regularly—is an essential step for anyone who has a gas fireplace (or any other gas appliances).

Kevin Hayes, the director of Centreline Fires in the U.K., also highlights the importance of keeping fire safety in mind before lighting a gas fireplace. “Check that the area around the fireplace is clear of any clutter like paper, decorations, or anything flammable,” he says. 

How to Light a Gas Fireplace with a Control Panel

The steps for how to turn on a gas fireplace with a control panel can be a bit more involved than those for other types of gas fireplaces. For this reason, the first thing you should always do is read the manual for your specific model. While the general steps for lighting these fireplaces are similar, they might differ slightly between manufacturers. Reading the manual before you get started will help you learn the best way to light your fireplace, and help you avoid making a potentially dangerous mistake.

STEP 1: Open the door for the access panel.

To use the control panel to light your fireplace, you’ll need to access it first. For most gas fireplaces, this panel should be located at the base of the unit. The access panel covers the fireplace controls; this panel should be easy to remove by simply pulling it off.

STEP 2: Find the control knob and ensure it is set to the “off” position.

After opening the control panel, look for the control knob. This valve should be easy to identify, since it will be labeled with the words “pilot,” “off,” and “on” (or possibly a string of numbers). Before you do anything to start lighting the fireplace, Hayes cautions, “Ensure the gas valve is in the ‘off’ position to start with to avoid gas from flowing while you prepare the fire.” 

STEP 3: Wait at least 5 minutes and open the emergency shut-off valve.

If the knob was not in the off position when you opened the panel, you should wait a minimum of 5 minutes before proceeding with the next steps of fireplace lighting. This waiting period is essential to ensure that no natural gas is lingering in the air when you light the fireplace. Skipping it can increase the chances of a natural gas explosion.

STEP 4: Set the control knob to the pilot position and press on the ignition switch.

During the 5-minute wait period, refresh yourself on how to light a pilot light and get your fireplace started. Begin by turning the gas control valve to “Pilot.” With it still in this position, press the knob in and hold it in place. “This allows gas to flow to the pilot light area. It might feel a little stiff if you haven’t used it in a while, but that’s normal, so don’t worry,” says Hayes. To prevent gas from flowing into the room, do not turn the knob to this position unless you’re immediately ready to light the fireplace.

As you’re holding the control knob in, use your other hand to push the ignition button. You’ll need to click it several times while holding the pilot button down to create the necessary spark for lighting the flame. When you notice a steady flame, you’ve successfully lit the pilot flame. “If your fireplace doesn’t have an ignition button, you can use a long fireplace lighter or match to manually light it,” says Hayes.

STEP 5: After holding the control knob for at least 30 seconds, set it to the “on” position.

When you see the steady flame, you can stop pressing the ignition button. However, you shouldn’t release the control knob just yet. “Continue holding the knob for an additional 30 to 60 seconds to allow the thermocouple to heat up—this is the safety device that keeps the gas flowing to the pilot once you have it lit,” says Docia Boylen, owner of Handyman Connection of Golden, Colorado. After about 30 seconds have passed, you can release the knob and rotate it to “On.”

STEP 6: Close the access panel door.

Now that your gas fireplace is lit, you can return the access panel to its place and adjust the flame as desired. If a draft or something else causes the pilot light to go out, you’ll need to repeat the steps above to relight the pilot light and restart your fireplace. If your gas fireplace won’t turn on at all or “if you are unable to keep the pilot light lit, contact a professional, since this could indicate a problem with your gas line or thermocouple,” says Boylen.

How to Light a Gas Fireplace with a Key

If your gas fireplace or fireplace insert has a circular slot near the unit, typically toward its base, then you’ll need to use a key to light it. If you don’t have the key for your model, you can purchase a universal replacement key online or at a local home improvement store. One of the best ways to learn how to use a gas fireplace with a key is to start with the manual from the manufacturer. Doing so can help you identify whether there are any special safety considerations or directions to keep in mind.

STEP 1: Remove the glass panel cover in front of the fire chamber.

Before lighting a gas fireplace with a key, you must remove the cover for the unit. In most cases, the cover is a glass panel that keeps the area where the fire burns separated from the room. Find the latches that are keeping the glass in place—these should be along the sides or the top and bottom of the glass. Depending on your model, the glass panel might fully lift off, or it might open like a door. If you recently had the fireplace on, it is important to let the glass cool fully before attempting to remove it.

STEP 2: Locate the gas valve and insert the key (without turning it).

After the glass has been removed, locate the gas valve, which will likely be along the base of the fireplace and will look like a round slot. Put the key into the gas valve. It is important to wait to turn the key until you are ready to light the fireplace, because gas will start flowing as soon as you turn the key.

STEP 3: Light the burner and turn the key counterclockwise.

Use a fireplace lighter or a long match to light the burner. With the fireplace lighter or match lit and in place, turn the key counterclockwise to start the flow of gas. Once the gas comes on, the burner should light immediately. If you are unable to reach the key while safely holding the fireplace lighter or match in place, ask for help to avoid an accident.

STEP 4: Return the glass panel to its place and adjust the flame height using the key.

After starting a gas fireplace, you can carefully return the glass panel back into place. Then, you can use the key to adjust the flame height. If you want to increase the flames, turn the key counterclockwise; if you wish to decrease them, rotate it clockwise.

FAQ About Lighting a Gas Fireplace

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