A burst pipe or clogged toilet can be a real headache. We depend on the plumbing in our home to function seamlessly so we have clean water to use; cold and hot water running throughout the house in each shower, tub, faucet, and water-using appliance; and the ability to remove wastewater. 

But when plumbing isn’t working, the problem needs fixing right away. Many homeowners try to address plumbing issues on their own, but that isn’t always a good idea. “While it’s great that homeowners are interested in tackling some plumbing tasks themselves, it’s important to know where to draw the line,” warns Al Fagundes, founder and CEO of A. Fagundes Plumbing and Heating Inc., with locations in Massachusetts and New Hampshire. “I’ve seen my share of DIY mishaps over the years, and some can be costly,” he says.

We spoke with Fagundes and other professional plumbers to ask what they think are the three biggest DIY plumbing mistakes they’ve seen and been asked to fix. They also offered tips to help homeowners determine which plumbing repairs are typically suitable for DIYers and which are best left to the pros. 

1. Over-Tightening Connections

A common mistake that DIYers make is tightening pipe fittings, supply lines, faucet connections, and toilet bolts too much, which can result in cracking pipes or destroying washers. “Many DIYers think that if a little tightening is good, then more is better, but this is often not the case,” says Fagundes. “Over-tightening pipe fittings, especially plastic ones, can actually damage them, leading to cracks and leaks. It can also strip threads on metal fittings, making them unusable.” This can ultimately cause leaks that could have easily been avoided. 

The goal should be to create a seal, not to crush the pipes. Fagundes offers a good rule of thumb: tighten fittings until they’re snug and then give them just a little bit more—usually no more than a quarter turn. Use Teflon tape or pipe dope on threaded connections to help create a seal and prevent seizing.

2. Incorrect Use of Sealants and Tape

Another issue occurs when DIYers use duct tape or epoxy fillers incorrectly. Danny Pen, a plumbing and HVAC contractor at New Era Plumbing & HVAC in Dracut, Massachusetts, often sees inexperienced homeowners wrapping Teflon tape backward or using too much of it. “In both of these cases, it causes leaks instead of preventing them,” he says. Pen suggests wrapping the tape clockwise two to three times so it tightens with the fitting.

Understanding which sealant to use for which application is also critical. Teflon tape is great for threaded connections, but it’s not appropriate for all plumbing situations, says Fagundes. “For example, it shouldn’t be used on compression fittings,” he explains. “Pipe dope (pipe joint compound) is another sealant that’s used on threaded connections, often in conjunction with Teflon tape.” Also, using too much sealant can be just as bad as using too little. Excess sealant can squeeze out and create obstructions in the pipes.

Finally, Alex Atkinson, plumber and HVAC technician with Super Brothers in San Jose and Sacramento, California, has walked into homes where residents have attempted to repair a burst or leaking pipe with temporary solutions like duct tape or DIY epoxy fixes. “While these might hold for a short time, they’re not permanent solutions and can lead to costly water damage if they fail,” he says. The temporary patches can easily give out, requiring you to replace entire sections of drywall or flooring due to water damage. 

3. Forgetting to Turn Off the Water Supply and Drain Pipes

Another big error is when homeowners forget to turn off the water supply and then drain pipes before they attempt to fix a plumbing issue. “It’s amazing how often DIYers forget (or don’t know how) to turn off the water supply before starting a plumbing repair,” says Fagundes. “This can lead to a real mess—water spraying everywhere, potential water damage to walls and floors, and even the risk of electrical shock if water comes into contact with electrical wiring.”  

How can you avoid a disaster? Before tackling any plumbing project, be sure to always locate the main water shutoff valve for your home and turn it off. For smaller repairs, like replacing a faucet, you might be able to use the shut-off valves under the sink or toilet.

It’s also critical to drain the pipes before starting any work on them, says Pen. “This means when they start unscrewing a connection, water still under pressure sprays everywhere, leading to soaked drywall, flooded cabinets, and a mess they didn’t see coming.” Always open a faucet downstream to relieve pressure before doing anything with your plumbing.

Plumbing Repairs Most Suitable for DIYers

When it comes to determining which plumbing repairs are DIY-friendly and which require a professional, consider complexity, risk, and tools, says Atkinson. Make sure you have the proper plumbing tools, including a toilet plunger, plumber’s tape, mini sink and drain plunger, and drain-cleaning auger. You’ll also want to find the proper instructions for each type of repair that you can follow easily. 

Here are some straightforward, quick plumbing repairs that can typically be handled as DIY projects:

• Replacing a faucet washer
• Unclogging minor blockage in a drain with a drain snake or a plunger
• Swapping out existing fixtures like faucets and showerheads
• Fixing a running toilet by replacing the flapper
• Tightening a minor leak under a sink (if it’s just a loose connection)

When It’s Time to Call a Pro

On the other hand, sometimes it’s best to hire a professional plumber to avoid DIY plumbing mistakes and ensure the job is done well. The typical cost range to hire a plumber is between $180 and $489, with a national average cost of $331. Costs will vary depending on the plumber’s expertise level, type of service, job complexity, supplies, labor, and geographic location.

Anything that includes cutting into pipes, working with pressurized water lines, or taking care of sewage should be left to a licensed plumber, says Atkinson. “If a mistake has the potential to cause significant water damage, mold growth, or safety hazards, it’s best to bring in an expert who has the training and equipment to handle the job properly,” he says.

A good rule to follow, according to Fagundes, is: “if it’s wet, call a pro.” If the problem involves a significant amount of water or if you’re dealing with drain lines or sewer lines, it’s generally best to call a professional plumber. “Water damage can be very expensive to repair, so it’s not worth the risk,” he says.

If you’re not sure if a plumbing repair is something you can handle yourself, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and call a licensed plumber. Here are some of the more complex plumbing tasks that often require a pro:

• Repairing burst or leaking pipes
• Relocating pipes
• Repairing or replacing water heaters
• Working on any plumbing behind a wall, under the foundation, or involving gas or sewer lines
• Addressing persistently low water pressure
• Figuring out the cause of mysterious leaks
• Addressing major drain clogs
• Installing smart toilets and luxury faucets and fixtures
• Performing any work requiring permits or adherence to local codes

The post We Asked Plumbers the 3 Biggest DIY Repair Mistakes to Avoid appeared first on Bob Vila.

Q: The cabinet under my kitchen sink has been soggy lately. Could this be a sign of a leaking garbage disposal? If so, how can I repair it myself?

A: A leaking garbage disposal often goes unnoticed until you confront a sopping cabinet, a foul-smelling puddle, or an audible drip-drip-drip from the unit. The fix can be frustrating, too, because the leak can stem from a number of components in the system. Fortunately, with a little sleuthing, you can zero in on the leak and, depending on the exact location, stop the icky oozing and repair the component that caused it. Following this process will help you isolate and fix the link.

Prepare to find the leak.

Before testing the garbage disposal for leaks, unplug it at the wall outlet, and turn off the power at the breaker box to prevent electrical shock. Then insert a watertight sink stopper into your sink drain and wipe the unit dry with a clean cloth. In any handy container, mix a few drops of food coloring into a few cups of water, and pour the dyed water onto the sink stopper to help you locate the leak.

Investigate the source.

Using a flashlight, examine the unit for escaping colored water, which is likely to come from one of three places:

• the top, where the disposal meets the sink drain
• the side, where the dishwasher hose or main drain pipe connects to the disposal
• or the bottom of the unit

Inspect each of these locations while gliding a light-colored rag over the unit; the dyed water will readily show on the rag and reveal the location of the leak. If a leak isn’t immediately apparent, remove the sink stopper and pour a few more cups of dyed water down the sink drain, then check for leaks again. Leaks near the top of the unit are more likely to show themselves while the sink is plugged, while side and bottom leaks are more noticeable while the sink is unplugged.

If the top of the garbage disposal is leaking, re-seal and tighten the sink flange.

The metal sink flange that sits directly inside the sink drain is typically sealed around the top with plumber’s putty (a clay-like sealant) and then secured from under the sink with bolts. If the plumber’s putty deteriorates, or the bolts loosen, the flange can no longer form a watertight seal between the sink drain and the disposal, which could cause a leak at the top of the unit.

To reseal the leaky flange, you must first detach the garbage disposal:

• Start by loosening the screws securing the main drain pipe to the disposal, then loosen the screws in the metal clamp securing the dishwasher hose to the disposal and detach the drain pipe and dishwasher hose from the disposal.
• Loosen the screws in the mounting ring that connects the disposal to the metal mounting assembly beneath the sink, then pull down the disposal and carefully set it on a clean, dry surface.
• Loosen the bolts in the mounting assembly with a wrench, then pull down the mounting assembly and set it near the disposal.

Lift the sink flange from the top of the sink. Use a plastic putty knife to scrape off the old plumber’s putty around the top of the flange, then wipe off any putty residue with a damp rag. Scoop a palmful of plumber’s putty (available at hardware stores, home centers, and online) and roll it into an 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch-wide “rope” with a length roughly equal to the circumference of the flange. Wrap the rope of putty around the top of the flange like a collar, then insert the flange into the sink drain opening until snug. Re-install the mounting assembly and mounting ring (taking care to securely tighten the mounting bolts on the mounting assembly), then reattach the garbage disposal, drain pipe, and dishwasher hose in the reverse order you detached them.

If the side of the garbage disposal is leaking, tighten drain line connections and replace worn gaskets.

Two drain lines extend from the sides of a garbage disposal: a narrower dishwasher hose that connects the dishwasher drain pipe to your disposal’s dishwasher inlet, and the main drain pipe that connects your disposal to the sewer through an outlet in the wall.

If you spy a leak on the side of the disposal where the dishwasher hose meets the disposal’s dishwasher inlet, the problem could be that the metal clamp connecting them is loose. In that case, tighten the screws in the metal clamp with a screwdriver.

If the leak is on the side where the disposal meets the waste drain pipe, loosen the screws that secure the drain pipe to the disposal and inspect the rubber gasket inside the pipe—it may well be worn out. Replace the gasket and re-tighten the drain pipe screws.

If the bottom of the unit is leaking, replace the disposal.

Leaks from the bottom of the garbage disposal (often from the reset button) commonly indicate that at least one seal on the interior shell of the unit that protects the motor has deteriorated, or that the shell itself has cracked. These vulnerabilities can cause water from the sink to seep into the shell of the disposal and leak out of the base of the unit. In an old garbage disposal, one compromised internal seal is often accompanied by others, so your best bet is to install a new one.

Hiring a pro to replace the unit will run you $400 on average, including labor and parts, or you can install a garbage disposal yourself and save anywhere from $90 to $200 in labor costs. You should be able to get eight to 15 years of use out of a new garbage disposal. (Our researched guide to the best garbage disposals can help you research quality options.)

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Test the repair or replacement by running water through the drain.

Whether you repaired or replaced the leaking garbage disposal, you will want to test your work to make sure the unit is shipshape. Wipe the unit dry with a clean cloth, then unplug the sink drain (if plugged) and pour a few cups of dyed water into the drain once more. Use a flashlight to inspect the entire unit. If you don’t see a leak, turn on the power to the disposal from your breaker box and plug in the disposal at the wall outlet.

How to Prevent a Garbage Disposal From Leaking

Proper use of a garbage disposal can stave off future leaks:

• Remember to grind only soft foods; hard items such as bones, apple cores, or raw potatoes can dislodge or damage the internal seals.
• Run hot water through the sink drain before and after food disposal to keep solid fats from congealing (which can deteriorate the sink flange and cause leaks).
• Inspect your disposal for leaks at least twice a year using the dyed-water test. It’s important to catch and repair minor leaks before they lead to water-damaged sink cabinets or kitchen floors.

The post What to Do About a Leaking Garbage Disposal appeared first on Bob Vila.

A water softener for well water is fitted to a plumbing system to filter unwanted minerals out of hard water. This prevents the buildup of scale that can clog pipework and reduce the working life of household appliances like washing machines and dishwashers. One typical sign of excess hard water is white deposits in showerheads. City water can also be hard, which explains the need for a variety of different water softener systems. 

There are a number of important technical aspects to consider when choosing the right hard water treatment for your home, and we explain these in detail in this article. We have also included our recommendations for what we believe are currently the best water softeners for well water on the market.

Best Overall

Aquasure Harmony Series 48,000 Grains Whole House Water Softener

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Pros

• High-capacity softener at a competitive price
• Multi-function digital control head
• Heavy-duty corrosion-resistant tank

Cons

• Requires considerable floor space
• Faults aren’t common but do occur

Specs

• Type Salt-based, dual tank
• Grain Size 48,000
• Suitability Up to 5 people, 3 to 4 bathrooms

Aquasure has been developing water softeners for over 25 years. This model from the Harmony Series is designed to work with both city and well water. It is a dual tank system, which is usually recommended for well water, with a 48,000 grain capacity. This will deliver softened water for families of up to five in homes with three or four bathrooms.

A digital control pane clearly indicates the flow rate and time left until regeneration is recommended. The intuitive control head can be programmed to maximize efficiency based on the household’s water usage. Installation is straightforward, and a heavy-duty polyethylene tank with a fiberglass lining provides excellent corrosion resistance and durability. Models ranging from 30,000 to 72,000 grains are also available.

Get the Aquasure water softener for well water at Amazon, Lowe’s, or The Home Depot.

More Water Softeners for Well Water Worth Your Money

Our best rated water softener will satisfy many buyers, but there are always exceptions. The following options cover a range of prices and specifications to suit different-sized homes and families.

• AO Smith Whole House Descaler System, available at Amazon or Lowe’s.
• Aquasana Whole House Well Water Filter System, available at Amazon.
• Whirlpool 40,000 Grain Softener, available at Amazon.
• Durawater Fleck Whole House Water Softener, available at Amazon.
• Pro+Aqua 80,000 Grain Whole House Water Softener, available at The Home Depot or Amazon.

How We Chose the Best Water Softeners for Well Water

Finding a water softener system for homes with well water is more challenging than for those that use city or municipal supplies, but because there are fewer options, it allowed us to research the market in depth. We looked at each of the technical aspects discussed below and also considered ease of installation, durability, any maintenance requirements, and price.

We also took expert advice. John Wilson, CEO of Wilson Plumbing and Heating, told us that finding out your well water’s hardness was a good idea. You can check typical hardness in your zip code at sites online, but testing your well water is better, and kits are widely available. Deciding which type of water softener you need is key: “Salt-based systems are generally more effective for treating hard water, while salt-free options are ideal if you want to avoid salt altogether.” Choosing the correct size for your household needs is important because an under-specified model will actually be more expensive to run. He also said to “look for a model that’s easy to maintain, with infrequent salt refills and minimal upkeep.”

What to Consider When Choosing a Water Softener for Well Water

One of the main benefits of water softener use is the reduction of scale, something we discuss in detail in our article “So you want to install a water softener.” Doing so can increase the life of appliances, reduce the amounts of detergents and soaps you use, and improve how your skin and hair feel. Once you have identified the problem and decided a water softener for your well water is the right course of action, you’ll want to think about the following features.

Types of  Water Softeners

There are basically two water softener types: those that use salt and those that are salt-free. Salt-based models work on the ion exchange principle and have a brine tank and a resin tank. The resin has negatively charged ions that draw the minerals with positive ions, which cause hardness, out of the water. These negative ions need to be replenished, hence the use of salt water for the brine tank. The softener manufacturer may recommend a brand of water softener salts, but there are numerous other options to choose from as well.

Salt-free systems use an electromagnetic system that causes minerals like calcium and magnesium to crystallize so they don’t form scale in your plumbing or appliances. They are cheaper but only effective with low hardness, so they’re not generally recommended for well water.

Capacity

Water softener capacity is measured in grains per gallon (gpg), though usually just the term grains is used. Technically speaking, 1 grain equals 0.002 ounces of calcium carbonate dissolved in a gallon of water. Water with a gpg of 7.5 and above is considered hard.

To calculate the grains you need, you should multiply your water hardness by the average daily water consumption. Aquasure, who manufactures our top pick, gives the following guide.

32,000 grains is enough for 1-3 people and 1-2 bathrooms.

48,000 grains is enough for 4-5 people and 3-4 bathrooms.

64,000 grains is enough for 5-7 people and 5-6 bathrooms.

72,000 grains is enough for 7+ people and 6+ bathrooms.

Installation

There are two things to consider when it comes to installation: the space available and whether to tackle the job yourself. Salt-based water softeners for well water have two tanks, one for resin and another for the brine (salt water) necessary for regeneration. These can take up considerable space. The optimum position is as near the water’s entry point to the home as possible, so the size of the tanks may have an impact on your choice. It is possible to install an outdoor water softener, and some are available with weather covers, but bear in mind it still needs an electrical supply.

While the plumbing fixtures for water softeners are fairly straightforward, the process of installation may not be. Understandably, many people prefer to have installation carried out by a professional.

FAQs

The information above applies to a variety of home water softening systems for those who have well water and will help you find the right model for your needs. During our research, we found several specific questions relating to water softening that crop up regularly, so we have answered those here.

The post We Researched and Compared Over 20 Water Softeners to Find This Top Pick appeared first on Bob Vila.

Q: I just drained my water heater for the first time since it was installed back in 1989. The water came out very clean, with no sign of sediment, so I stopped after about 5 minutes. Does this mean that my heater has no sediment?

It’s smart to drain the tank on a water heater every year, no matter what type of water heater you own. Sediment builds up over time within the appliance, compromising its energy efficiency and leading to clogs in fixtures throughout the house. The fact that you witnessed clean-looking water come out of your tank does not necessarily mean you’re in the clear. To remove sediment, you must drain a water heater not just for five minutes, but for as long as it takes to empty out completely.

In the future, follow these steps to drain a water heater:

Step 1: Check the pressure-relief valve.

Before you drain a water heater, check its pressure-relief valve, the means by which the tank keeps from bursting due to excess pressure.

How do you ensure that the valve is functioning properly? Switch off the power to the water heater. (If the unit runs on electricity, simply turn it off. If it burns gas, then switch the heater over to “pilot” mode.) Next, trip the lever on the valve in the cold water supply line. Finally, to minimize mess, position a bucket under the pressure-relief valve. Once you have opened the valve, listen for air and look for water. If you experience either, that means the valve is working as designed and you proceed to the next step. (Note that if you open the pressure-release valve and nothing happens—no hissing air, no dripping water—then it probably needs to be replaced.)

Tried-and-True Advice

“When draining my water heater, I found that attaching a clear section of tubing between the tank’s drain valve and the garden hose makes it easier to check the water flow and sediment. The transparent tubing lets you clearly see when sediment starts or stops flowing out of the tank, so you know when the tank is actually clear. It’s an inexpensive addition that eliminates guesswork and makes sure you get a thorough flush.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Step 2: Run your drain line.

Run a garden hose from the water heater drain to the exterior of your home. If the tank sits below grade (say, in the basement), you’ll likely need at least two lengths: One that runs from the tank to a portable pump, plus another that runs from the pump to the outdoors. If your water heater is located anywhere besides the basement, then gravity ought to do the trick. To be on the safe side, give the water in the switched-off heater ample time to cool down (allot several hours) before opening the drain valve. Note that taking a long, hot shower proves an effective strategy for speeding up this part of the draining process!

Step 3: Flush your tank.

After opening all the hot water faucets around your house, proceed to open the water heater drain valve. (Now is the time to activate your pump, if you’ve chosen to use one.) Let the tank drain completely, then turn on the water supply (short bursts of water may help to dislodge any sediment buildup). If sediment slows or obstructs the flow of water from the drain valve, get it out of the way: In other words, remove the drain valve, so the sediment can exit through a larger opening. With the valve removed, a long screwdriver or dowel may assist you in dislodging sediment. Keep several large buckets on hand to capture the outflow.

Step 4: Shut off the faucets and restore power to the water heater.

Once the water coming out of your tank appears to be running clear, turn the supply off once more. Then close the water heater drain valve and turn on the cold water supply. Remember also to return the pressure-relief valve to its initial position. Shut off the hot water faucets around your house (which you had turned on in Step 3) and, finally, restore the power to your water heater, which is now free of sediment.

Is it time to replace your water heater? Our researched guide to the best hot water heaters can help you make the right choice for your household.

The post How to Drain a Water Heater appeared first on Bob Vila.

Homeowners are always looking for ways to decrease their monthly bills. One way to do that is by improving the efficiency of their home systems. For instance, traditional tank-style water heaters constantly heat and reheat water, which isn’t a highly efficient way to supply a home with hot water. If a more efficient (though pricey) tankless system isn’t in your budget and it’s not yet time to replace your water heater, consider taking steps to increase your hot water heater’s efficiency and save you money. 

One of the simplest methods to do this is with a water heater cover. This water heater blanket insulation will help hold heat longer and keep the water heater from running as often. With this minor addition, you’ll be able to lessen your home’s energy consumption and lower your monthly heating bill. Our favorite was the Frost King SP60 Water Heater Insulation Blanket, a fiberglass product with superior insulating abilities. We tested six models to help determine the best water heater blankets for your home.

1. BEST OVERALL: Frost King SP60 Water Heater Insulation Blanket
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2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: US Energy Products 80-Gallon Water Heater Blanket Kit
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3. BEST LIGHTWEIGHT: Reflecto-Foil 60-Gallon Water Heater Jacket
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4. BEST MULTIPURPOSE: US Energy Products 10-Foot Reflective Foam Insulation
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5. BEST EASY INSTALLATION: SmartJacket 80-Gallon Water Heater Blanket
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6. BEST FOR SMALL TANKS: Reflecto-Foil 40-Gallon Water Heater Jacket
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Product Comparison

Our Top Picks

Choosing the best water heater blanket for your needs is a fairly straightforward process, and you’ll have all the information you need after you read up on the top products described below. Be sure to keep our considerations in mind when comparing water heater blankets to make an informed choice.

Best Overall

Frost King SP60 Water Heater Insulation Blanket

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Our Ratings: Installation 4.5/5; Effectiveness 4.5/5; Value 4.5/5 

Product Specs 

• Material: Vinyl-backed fiberglass
• Size: 3 inches thick by 90 inches long by 60 inches wide
• Insulating power: R-10

What We Like

• Variety of sizes available
• Efficient insulator

What We Don’t Like

• Messy installation
• Personal protective gear required 
• Included tape not sticky enough

When it comes to insulating a water heater as much as possible, Frost King’s SP60 water heater insulation blanket is tough to beat. This fiberglass insulation is 3 inches thick, providing an insulation value of R-10. The blanket is nonflammable and has a foil face to reflect as much heat back into the tank as possible. At 90 inches long by 60 inches wide, this product is suitable for heaters up to 60 gallons. Different size options are available for smaller heaters.

Once installed, the Frost King blanket does a great job. That said, be prepared for installation. Since the product contains fiberglass, we recommend wearing long sleeves, gloves, eye protection, and a dust mask. Also, take the time to measure your water heater before unrolling the hot water heater cover. Once you unroll it, be prepared to quickly cut and install to ensure the least amount of exposure to the fiberglass. Although this product comes with foil tape, we were unimpressed by the quality and backed it up with some extra foil tape.

Yes, we disliked the installation, but we can’t argue with the results.This super-thick blanket truly made our hot water heater snug for the winter.

Get the Frost King water heater blanket at Amazon or Walmart. 

Best Bang for the Buck

US Energy Products 80-Gallon Water Heater Blanket Kit

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Our Ratings: Installation 4.5/5; Effectiveness 4.5/5; Value 5/5

Product Specs 

• Material: Reflective foam
• Size: 3/16 inch thick by 84 inches long by 48 inches wide
• Insulating power: R-5

What We Like

• Easy and clean to install
• Multiple layers
• Tape and cutter included

What We Don’t Like

• Not as thick as other products
• Needed to supplement included tape with our own

If you’re researching water heater blankets, saving money is already on your mind. The US Energy Products heater blanket kit provides everything you need from blanket to tape to cutter for one affordable price. This is an ideal choice for someone who doesn’t have a lot of tools on hand. With its two layers of air bubbles inside the foil face, this roll of foil-type insulation offers both reflective insulation and a thermal barrier.

This hot water heater wrap comes with enough material to wrap water heaters between 20 and 80 gallons. It features a commercial-grade design that’s resistant to tearing for added durability. We appreciated the design with thoughts of our curious cats in mind; we won’t have to be concerned about insulation strewn across our utility room. This kit came with tape included and although it was probably sufficient to get the job done, we do recommend purchasing extra tape just in case so you don’t run out of tape in the middle of the job. Personally, we used a bit more than was included, but it’s possible we went a little overboard.

Get the US Energy Products 80-gallon water heater blanket at Amazon or US Energy Products.

Best Lightweight

Reflecto-Foil 60-Gallon Water Heater Jacket

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Our Ratings:Installation 4.5/5; Effectiveness 4.5/5; Value 5/5 

Product Specs 

• Material: Reflective foil
• Size: 3/16 inch thick by 72 inches long by 76 inches wide
• Insulating power: Unspecified

What We Like

• Neat look after installation
• Easy to cut
• Fits into some tight spots
• Includes tape and spacers

What We Don’t Like

• Insulating power not listed

At first glance, the Reflecto-Foil insulated blanket for a water heater seems unimpressive. However, upon closer examination you’ll see that even though it is lightweight there is a honeycomb of insulation sandwiched between the foil layers. With this water heater jacket, you can maintain tank temperature without having to manage a bulky covering. This kit comes with a roll of foil-type insulation that measures 72 inches long by 76 inches wide, allowing users to insulate tanks between 50 and 60 gallons. It’s also Class 1/Class A fire rated.

Because our water heater is crammed into a tight corner, the lightweight design of this insulation blanket made it the ideal choice. We appreciated how easy it was to cut (we found a box cutter and scissors equally effective) especially when fitting it around pipes. The kit includes the foil tape and spacers (small chunks of foam used to make a consistent circumference around the tank) necessary for installing it on a variety of tank sizes.

Get the Reflecto-Foil 60-gallon water heater blanket at Amazon.

Best Multipurpose

US Energy Products 10-Foot Reflective Foam Insulation

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Our Ratings: Installation 4.5/5; Effectiveness 4.5/5; Value 5/5

Product Specs 

• Material: Reflective foil with foam core
• Size: ⅛ inch thick by 120 inches long by 48 inches wide
• Insulating power: R-8

What We Like

• Good for installation in tight spots
• Enough for multiple uses
• Can cut with scissors
• Easy to fit around pipes

What We Don’t Like

• Not as thick as some other products
• Not tall enough for larger tanks

If you have several insulation projects in your plans, the reflective foam water heater insulation blanket from US Energy Products can meet all your needs with one purchase. After wrapping your water heater, you’ll have plenty of leftover insulation, as the aluminum-polyester foam insulation comes in a 10-foot roll. We actually had enough to wrap our water heater and our neighbor’s! Since it’s only 48 inches wide, though, it might not be suitable for taller water heaters. 

This product includes a foam thermal barrier and a reflective foil surface to reflect heat back into the tank. It is an easy-to-work-with material that has uses beyond water heaters; we think it would be ideal as a water heater pipe insulation product. It features a fire-resistant rating of Class 1/Class A, and since it’s a fiberglass-free product, you don’t have to be concerned about working with loose fibers.

Get the US Energy Products 10-foot water heater blanket at Amazon or US Energy Products.

More Great Options

We wanted to mention these additional products that have traits that may make them the ideal choice for your home. Although these products were not tested, we are recommending them on the strength of our research, consumer reviews and additional information from the manufacturer.

Best Easy Installation

SmartJacket 80-Gallon Water Heater Blanket

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Product Specs 

• Material: Polyethylene and double-sided aluminum foil
• Size: ⅛ inch thick by 80 inches long by 24 inches wide
• Insulating power: R-7.1

What We Like

• Clean and easy installation
• Works in tight spots
• Thin material for easy application around fittings

What We Don’t Like

• Very sticky tape; separate insulation tape might be better

Want to retain a high level of insulation power but don’t want to work with fiberglass and all the safety precautions that go along with it? Check out this water heater blanket from SmartJacket. This ⅛-inch-thick foil-type insulation kit comes in an 80-inch-long roll, which is plenty of material to insulate water heaters with tanks between 20 and 80 gallons.

The ease of installation makes this a good choice for newbie DIYers. It comes with the foil tape necessary to secure it around the tank, but it’s a good idea to invest in an extra roll just in case. The material is easy to cut for use around drains and burners, and while there is no mention of fire resistance in the product information, foil isn’t flammable.

Get the SmartJacket water heater blanket at Amazon or Walmart.

Best for Small Tanks

Reflecto-Foil 40-Gallon Water Heater Jacket

See It

Product Specs 

• Material: Reflective foil
• Size: 3/16 inch thick by 76 inches long by 48 inches wide
• Insulating power: Unspecified

What We Like

• No fiberglass for a simple and clean installation
• Includes foil spacers and tape 

What We Don’t Like

• Insulating power not listed

Buying a large kit to insulate a small tank can be a waste of money, so it’s more cost-effective to buy only the material you need. Reflecto-Foil’s water heater jacket is designed to work with water heater tanks up to 40 gallons to save cash and avoid wasted material.

This kit features a roll of Class 1/Class A fire-rated foil insulation, foil tape, and the spacers (small chunks of foam used to make a consistent circumference around the tank) necessary for a good fit. The roll of insulation measures 76 inches long by 48 inches wide to cover most smaller water heater tanks with ease. And because it’s fiberglass-free, there’s no need to worry about wearing long sleeves or other protective gear.

Get the Reflecto-Foil 40-gallon water heater blanket at Amazon. 

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Chose and Tested Water Heater Blankets

In choosing the best water heater blankets among those currently on the market, we looked at two top factors: material and size. Our list of recommendations covers the most popular types of water heater blanks, including thick fiberglass options as well as thinner foam and foil options.

We also made sure to include a range of sizes on our list with options to cover most water heater shapes. For oddly shaped water heaters with awkward piping, we included recommendations for several easy-to-cut options that can fit snugly around even the most difficult water heater shapes or those in tight spaces.

What to Consider When Choosing a Water Heater Blanket 

Before shopping for a water heater blanket, read this section to understand the factors and features to keep in mind. This will help you make an informed decision.

Material 

When perusing water heater blankets, you’ll notice that there are a few different types available. This mostly comes down to the type of insulating material. Some are easier to work with during installation than others, as they often need to be trimmed to fit individual water heaters. 

• Fiberglass insulation traps heat with a barrier made from pockets of air. Empty space, such as an air pocket, does not conduct heat, so fiberglass insulation is highly effective at insulating a water heater. However, fiberglass insulation is messy, itchy, and no fun to work with, so it’s essential to wear long sleeves, long pants, a mask, gloves, and glasses when installing this insulation.
• Foil insulation works by reflecting escaping heat back into the water heater. It also creates a thermal barrier with small air bubbles sandwiched between the foil layers. This type of insulation is thinner and much easier to install, but it doesn’t do quite as good a job of insulating as fiberglass. 
• Cotton and denim insulation, typically made from recycled clothing such as jeans, is fairly uncommon. Though it works similarly to fiberglass insulation and is reasonably effective, it doesn’t do the job quite as well as fiberglass or foil, yet is more expensive due to the production process. Plus, cotton and denim are not fire-resistant.
• Foil-faced foam insulation works similarly in theory to foil and fiberglass, using the reflective surface to reflect heat back to the tank. The foam also creates small air pockets. These insulators are usually easy to install and fire-resistant.

You may also find combinations of materials, such as fiberglass insulation with a foil face. This can offer the best of both worlds, as it uses a thick, insulating layer of air pockets and radiates heat back into the tank.

Size

Water heaters, like most appliances, come in different sizes. The size of house and family and the number of sinks and showers all affect how large a water heater a home needs. While water heaters range between 30 and 98 gallons, 40-, 50-, and 60-gallon tanks are the common sizes used in homes. 

Water heater blankets also come in similar sizes, so it’s important to find one that will work for your tank. If you have a 50-gallon tank, finding a water heater blanket to fit it should be no problem. Water heater blankets large enough to fit 98-gallon tanks, commonly found in commercial settings, may be harder to track down.

Thickness

When it comes to materials such as fiberglass, cotton, and denim, the thicker the water heater blanket, the better it will be at insulating. A water heater located in a cool basement calls for a thicker blanket. Thicker blankets will do a better job of separating the cool air and the heat radiating from the tank than thinner ones.

Because foil works primarily by reflecting the heat instead of relying on an air-pocket barrier, it needn’t be thick to function efficiently. Most water heater blankets made with foil are less than ½ inch thick, which is another reason foil water heater blankets are so easy to work with.

Insulating Power 

Just like your home’s insulation, water heater blankets come in a variety of insulation ratings. These ratings are described as R-value, where the R stands for resistance. The higher the R-value, the more resistance the insulation has against heat transfer. Essentially, more is better.

The highest R-value you’re likely to find for a residential water heater blanket is R-11, but values of R-7 and R-8 are more common. To get the most from your investment, it’s best to use the water heater blanket with the highest R-value.

It’s important to keep in mind, though, that foil-type insulation rarely offers an R-value; R-values apply to fiberglass and other similar types of insulation.

Fire Resistance

Water heaters have burner assemblies that get very hot. The point of insulating a water heater is to save energy and money, not cause a fire. Different water heater blanket materials have varying degrees of fire resistance to combat that risk. While the most common designation is Class 1/Class A, it’s helpful to know which types are the most fire resistant.

• Fiberglass and foil-type insulation are nonflammable.
• Cotton and denim are flammable and not likely to have a fire-resistance rating.

If fire resistance is of utmost importance, a fiberglass or foil water heater blanket is the way to go. Some fiberglass or foil products aren’t fire rated, but that doesn’t mean they’re unsafe. Just be sure to keep the insulation clear of the burner by a few inches.

Versatility

There are two types of water heaters: electric and gas. Electric water heaters have a heating element inside that energizes and heats the water that surrounds it. Gas water heaters have burners underneath that kick on to heat water through convection. 

Fortunately, water heater blankets are interchangeable between the two water heater types. However, if you have a gas-powered heater, it’s crucial that the blanket doesn’t cover or otherwise obstruct the flue (aka exhaust) at the top. If you have an electric model, the blanket must not cover or obstruct its control box or access panel, typically located on the side of the tank. Also, be sure to cut the insulation back from the burner by at least 2 inches while installing.

FAQs 

For additional information about buying and using the best water heater blanket, consider the answers to these frequently asked questions.

Meet the Tester

Jodi Webb is a DIYer who tests products with her contractor husband so readers get the advantages of both an expert’s and DIYer’s viewpoint. She visited several neighbors bearing water heater blankets and was able to test the product in a variety of setups. 

Additional research provided by Tom Scalisi.

The post Our Favorite Water Heater Blanket Offers Superior Insulation appeared first on Bob Vila.

Let’s face it: Dealing with a clogged toilet is about as much fun—but, unfortunately, just as necessary—as a root canal. When you’re stuck with a clogged or slow-draining toilet, the plunger should always be your first plan of attack. Plungers are quick, easy to use, and great for minor clogs, but be aware that they may just simply push the clog a little farther down the pipe.

If the plunger doesn’t do the job, don’t rush off and call the plumber quite yet. Instead, summon the toilet snake, also known as a closet snake, closet auger, or toilet auger. With this specialized plumbing tool and a little persistence, a typical DIYer should be able to learn how to use a toilet snake to tackle a straightforward clog and flush the problem away.

Step 1: Rent or buy a toilet snake.

If you don’t own a drain snake, you can either purchase one or you can rent one from a home center for about $15 a day. Prices range from $15 to $70 or even more, depending on the length of the cable, the sturdiness of the tool, and any extra features. Either option is less expensive than the average cost of bringing in a plumber, which can run upward of $100 per hour.

Before you get to work, familiarize yourself with the mechanics of the toilet snake. It’s essentially a long metal cable that sits in a hollow tube with a curved fitting at the base. This curve angles into the toilet drain, making it easier to feed the cable through to unclog the drain. A rubber sleeve at this end protects the toilet from scratches from the metal cable, and a crank at the other end helps work the cable down into the pipe. There are also powered augers that attach to a drill or driver, but manual augers are usually up to the task, and they’re also cheaper, easier to use, and less likely to cause damage. Kodi Wilson, campus director of National Technical Institute’s Las Vegas campus, cautions, “I would never recommend a homeowner to work with a powered snake on their own. This would risk injury and property damage. A hand-driven auger, on the other hand, is a great backup to a plunger.”

Step 2: Prep the bathroom.

Put on your rubber gloves and place a large, empty bucket next to the toilet. Have some towels ready in case you make a mess.

Step 3: Place the snake in the toilet bowl.

Holding onto the tube with one hand, use the other to pull back the handle of the snake so the end of the cable is near the end of the tube; the curved “boot” should protect the bottom of the toilet from scratches. Position the end of the snake in the toilet drain, aiming the cable toward the back of the drain.

Step 4: Feed the snake into the drain.

Holding the tube of the snake firmly in place with one hand, use the other to push down on the handle while turning it clockwise to extend the cable down into the drain. You may feel a little resistance as you feed the snake around curves. (Snaking a toilet drain can require patience, and you may need to work the cable forward and back a bit to move it farther down the drain.) Keep going until the snake hits something and won’t go any farther—you’ve reached the clog.

Pull back slightly on the snake. If you feel resistance, you may have hooked the source. If so, pull back on the cable to bring the clog to the surface. Remove it from the bowl and dispose of it in the bucket.

But you don’t have to actually pull out the clog. You can instead break it up into smaller pieces that can travel down the drain. “Pushing or pulling the clog doesn’t really matter. The goal is to get your drain flowing again,” Wilson says. There are, however, exceptions. “Septic systems can be more sensitive to what can go down the drain. If you know the clog is a toy or a diaper or something else that should not be in the drain, it is best to try and remove it. You often don’t have a choice, though; it’s more of a hope that your auger catches rather than pushes it through,” he adds.

To break up a clog, crank the cable as far as it will go, and then work it forward and backward, turning alternately clockwise and counterclockwise. Once you’re able to move the snake farther and more freely, you’ve breached the clog. Remove the auger and stick the business end in the bucket.

Step 5: Flush the clog.

You may want access to the flush valve if the toilet starts to overflow when you flush, so before doing a test flush, remove the tank lid and set it aside carefully. Then flush the toilet and confirm that the water rushes down the bowl.

If the toilet flushes successfully, you’re done. But if the water continues to rise, quickly turn the water shutoff behind the toilet clockwise until the water stops. If you can’t get to it fast enough, lift the float arm (the horizontal arm at the top right of the fill valve that attaches to the float) to cut off the flow of water, and hold it up (or find something to wedge it in place) while you access the shutoff. Alternatively, simply disconnect the refill tube (the small tube that carries water from the fill valve to the overflow tube) and let the water run into the tank until the water level triggers the valve to shut.

For a toilet that flushes but drains slowly, try plunging first—you may not need to snake the toilet drain again. But if it’s completely clogged, you’ll need another go with the snake.

Step 6: Clean the area.

To clean up, throw out any large clumps and then flush the rest back into the toilet in small amounts, making sure it all goes down without causing a new clog. Then thoroughly clean the bucket and the auger with hot water and bleach or vinegar before putting it away or returning it to the store. Finally, keep an eye on the toilet over the next few days to make sure everything’s still running smoothly.

How to Avoid Future Toilet Clogs

Now that you know how to use a snake to unclog a toilet, save yourself from a repeat performance by being careful with what you and your family put in the commode. The safest approach is to flush toilet paper only. Never flush sanitary products, paper towels, tissue paper, cotton balls, cotton swabs, dental floss, or hair. If you have particularly old or sensitive pipes, consider switching to a lower-ply brand of toilet paper to help keep things moving along.

Other Ways to Unclog a Toilet

First of all, avoid using caustic drain cleaners to unclog your toilet bowl. Some of these products can be bad for the environment and may damage toilets and plumbing pipes. (If you do end up calling in the pros after using a heavy-duty drain cleaner, be sure to let the plumbers know so they can take precautions to do the work safely.) There are, however, some DIY ways to unclog a toilet if you have neither a plunger nor a snake handy.

• Baking soda and vinegar: Add or remove water from the bowl so it’s filled halfway with water. Pour in about 1 cup of baking soda and follow up with at least 1 cup of distilled white vinegar. Wait about 30 minutes and then pour hot (not boiling) water down the drain. If the water level drops or you see bubbles rising up through the water, try flushing the toilet. (Be ready to shut off the water and grab some towels if the bowl starts overflowing.) If you have a plunger, try plunging. Repeat the process if necessary.
• Dish soap: Pour about 1 cup of dish soap—choose a dense, grease-cutting variety—steadily into the bowl so it drops to the bottom. After an hour, slowly pour some hot, not boiling, water into the bowl and wait about 30 minutes. (We find that pouring water from a standing height, rather than just above the toilet, gets better results.) Try flushing the toilet, but again, be ready to shut off the water and lay down some towels if the bowl starts to overflow.

When to Call a Plumber

Don’t give up too quickly when you’re snaking the toilet. It may take several tries to manipulate the cable into position and break up or remove the clog. But if you’ve been persistent and the toilet is still clogged, call in a trusted plumber. Wilson advises consulting a pro “if you need to remove the toilet, if the clog is beyond 6 feet, or if this is a recurring issue. Plumbers can use their expertise to evaluate the problem and approach it with the best long-term solution while providing the homeowner with information about the cause.”

The post How to Snake a Toilet appeared first on Bob Vila.

Q: My bathroom sink isn’t draining very well, and it’s driving me crazy. While the water does eventually drain out, it takes a long time—and, in the meantime, it’s hard to use a sink full of dirty water. What can be done about the slow sink drain?

A: If by the time you finish brushing your teeth, you’re leaning over a sink full of water dotted with toothpaste foam, you face a very common problem: a partial sink clog. While frustrating, a slow sink drain is easy enough for most homeowners to remedy on their own. The culprit is generally a slimy mixture of soap scum, hair, hair styling products, and/or thick shaving foam that has accumulated on the drain walls. While you might be tempted to reach for commercial drain openers right off the bat, know that these harsh and corrosive chemicals can irritate your skin and eyes and even harm old pipes. Since removing the blockage often doesn’t require any chemicals at all, we suggest playing it safe and trying the natural solutions outlined here.

Clean the stopper.

Because of its position at the mouth of the drain and the metal “tail” that extends a couple inches into the pipe, the sink stopper—the small raised metal device used to plug the sink’s drain on command—tends to catch hair, soap, and other debris. Once this trapped ball of slime gets too big, you have a slow sink drain.

In many modern sinks, you can remove the stopper simply by unscrewing it. In some older sinks, a small tether holds the stopper in place. If your sink is the latter type, follow these instructions to remove the stopper for cleaning:

1. Look underneath the sink, right where the basin connects to the pipe, and you’ll typically see a small rod with a nut and clip attached to the pipe.
2. Turn the nut to detach it—you might need pliers if it’s tight—squeeze the clip to release the rod, and lift the stopper out of the drain.
3. If the stopper is covered in slimy grunge and hair, use a paper towel or rag to thoroughly clean off all of the residues.

Melt the sludge.

A slimy coating along the inside of the sink’s drainpipe will narrow the opening and slow drainage. Here’s an easy way to dislodge built-up residue in the pipe using only common household pantry items.

1. Pour 1/2 cup baking soda into the drain followed by 1/2 cup white vinegar; the fizzing and bubbling reaction helps to break up small clogs.

2. Block the drain using a small rag so the chemical reaction doesn’t all bubble up out. Wait 15 minutes.

3. Now pour a kettle’s worth of hot water down the drain, and run hot sink water for several minutes to further flush out the melted slime.

Lift out debris.

If cleaning the drain walls didn’t fix the problem, fish out any accumulated debris with a small hair clog tool or drain snake.

Generally made of flexible plastic, drain snakes such as the FlexiSnake Drain Weasel feature long stems with a handle at one end and small barbs at the other; the barbs grab onto hair and other debris inside the clogged sink drain.

With the stopper removed, insert the plastic line down the drain, wiggle it around, and lift it out frequently to wipe off whatever you hook. Continue to do this until you can no longer pull up any blockage.

Use a plunger.

Sometimes the clog is further down the drain than even a drain-cleaning tool can reach. A sink plunger can help. For the best results:

1. Block the sink’s overflow hole with a small rag.
2. Place your cup-shaped sink plunger—not a toilet plunger, which has a flange for sealing a toilet’s outlet—over the sink drain.
3. Fill the basin with enough water to cover the plunger’s cup.
4. Now plunge up and down in short, quick movements to force as much air as possible down into the drain.
5. If the clog dislodges, you should see the water in the sink quickly drain away.

Snake the drain with an auger.

If you’ve tried all of the above steps but are still stuck with a slow sink drain, it’s time to get a bit more aggressive. Pick up a drain snake, also called a drain auger, from the home improvement store (or check out our roundup of the best drain snakes available for purposes like this). This metal cable extends anywhere from three to 25 feet long with a spiral catch at the other end so you can dislodge clogs located beyond the reach of a sink-cleaning tool or plunger.

With the stopper removed, insert the tip of the snake into the drain. Feed the snake further down the pipe, periodically retracting it to clean away any accumulated grunge. Keep a trash can nearby, because you’ll need somewhere to toss whatever comes out of the drain.

If you feel a block in the pipe, crank the drain snake’s handle to break through and wiggle the tool gently from side to side to catch the clog. Once the snake has a little give again, remove the snake and its contents and flush the drain with hot water.

Check the P-trap.

Look underneath your sink and you’ll see a U-shaped bend in the pipe. This is the P-trap, and while its purpose is to maintain a small standing pool of water to prevent sewer gas from backing up into your home, it’s also a prime spot for loose change, lost rings, debris, even lost toys to accumulate.

1. To clear your P-trap, start by turn off the water supply to the sink. While you’re at, remove any items store under the sink. Leave only a bucket placed directly underneath the P-trap to catch dirty water.
2. In most homes, the P-trap is held in place by slip nuts at each end of the curved pipe. These are usually plastic but can be chrome in older houses. Twist the slip nuts counterclockwise with your fingers or a wrench and, once the slip nuts are loosened, lift away the P-trap section of pipe.
3. Use your gloved fingers, a stiff brush, or an unbent coat hanger to push out any apparent blockages.

When the job is done, reattach the plumbing, tighten the slip nuts securely, and turn the water back on.

Keep things flowing with a little preventative maintenance.

Since a slow-draining sink is a problem that gradually escalates over time, you can minimize the chance of making a day of this by following a few basic precautions.

• When you see loose strands of hair in the sink, toss them into the trash rather than washing them down the drain. The same goes for gobs of toothpaste and soap: Better to wipe up than rinse away.
• If long hair often ends up in the sink, cover the stopper with a plastic or wire mesh shower drain hair catcher to collect hair before it goes down the drain during your grooming routine.
• Knock dirt and any other thick, heavy, or sticky materials into the trash before washing up.
• Make cleaning the sink stopper a part of your regular bathroom cleaning routine. Lift it out to wipe away hair, scum, and residue weekly.
• Regularly flush out the drain with very hot water to help melt away soap scum and sludge.
• Once each month or two, remove the stopper and pour 1 tablespoon of table salt and a 1/4 white vinegar into the drain, flushing the mixture away with hot water. This combination should loosen stubborn grunge before it builds into a clog.

The post How to Fix a Slow Sink Drain appeared first on Bob Vila.

Until now, I’ve only installed traditional tank-type water heaters, so I didn’t know what to expect from a tankless water heater. But the installation was straightforward, and I’m super happy with the results. 

My husband and I purchased a small commercial building last year, and we’ve been remodeling it on weekends. Because it has no designated utility room,  we’ve had to get creative with our utility setup. After thorough research, we installed the Rheem RTEX-18 Tankless Water Heater. Keep reading to find out more about this space-saving water heater and what I discovered about on-demand hot water heaters in general. 

Rheem RTEX-18 Tankless Water Heater: At a Glance

Our rating: 4.8/5

Testing the Rheem RTEX-18 Tankless Water Heater

To test the RTEX-18, we installed it to meet local codes and the manufacturer’s specifications. Although we are not licensed plumbers or electricians, as general contractors, we have a solid understanding of basic wiring and plumbing. In our community, property owners are permitted to handle their own utility installation. However, DIYers must accurately assess their own skills and follow local codes. Improper installation can cause serious issues, and in many cases, hiring a pro is the safest and most reliable option. 

After installing the unit, we connected it to a sink and noted how quickly the water warmed up. Find out the pros and cons of tankless water heaters and more in my Rheem RTEX-18 review. 

Installation and Space Requirements

I chose to install the RTEX-18 using a manifold system and cross-linked polyethylene tubing (PEX), but you could also use a branch-and-tee system and copper piping. The main thing is to use what meets local code, and to consult a professional if you’re not sure what local code requires. The RTEX-18 arrived with the water heater unit only–the PEX, flexible water inlet and outlet hoses, and manifolds were purchased separately. 

Due to the amount of juice the RTEX-18 pulls when it powers on, we also had to install two 40A double-pole circuit breakers. Rheem’s specs recommended a minimum 150A service panel. We have a 200A panel in the building, so we were good to go. We installed the 40A breakers in the service panel and wired them to the water heater. 

The plumbing involved supplying cold water to the RTEX-18 and connecting the hot water outlet to the hot water manifold. From there, we branched off the manifold to the two sinks in the building. The plumbing and wiring process was straightforward.

I was amazed at how little space was required to install the Rheem tankless water heater. The unit measures 13.9 inches wide, 17 inches high, and is just 3.6 inches deep. I mounted the RTEX-18 to a wall and will eventually install a shallow cabinet to cover it. Compare that with an average of 4 to 6 square feet of floor space required for a tank water heater 5 to 6 feet high. Also, local codes often require additional space around a tank heater for airflow. Practically speaking, there’s no comparison.

Hot Water Delivery Performance

The RTEX-18 starts heating the water as soon as someone turns on a hot water faucet. That flow of water triggers a sensor in the unit, telling it to start heating the water. I was expecting something akin to the amount of time it takes for the tank water heater in my home to deliver hot water but with the Rheem, in just a few seconds, the water coming out of the faucet was nice and hot. 

I was able to select the desired temperature by turning a knob on the front of the RTEX-18. It’s that simple. I experimented with the temperature adjustment and finally settled on 120 degrees F. That was warm enough to wash my hands comfortably. 

However, the RTEX-18 is a relatively small-capacity tankless water heater. If you have a large home with several bathrooms, you may want to consider a higher-capacity model. Rheem offers an interactive tankless sizing tool to help determine the model that will best suit your needs and the geographic location where you live. All in all, the RTEX-18 delivers ample hot water for my needs, and it does it efficiently. 

Cost and Energy Efficiency 

The neat thing about tankless hot water heaters, or on-demand water heaters, is that they don’t need to keep a huge tank of water consistently hot, so they don’t start drawing electricity until someone turns on a hot water faucet. According to Energy.gov, a tankless water heater is 8 to 34 percent more energy efficient than storage water heaters and can save consumers at least $100 annually. The RTEX-18 came with an EnergyGuide sticker that says it will cost an estimated $288 per year to operate. 

The Rheem RTEX-18 tankless water heater sells on Amazon for  $422.61. That price is competitive with similar-sized tankless heaters and maybe a smidgen more than electric storage tank heaters. It’s also a little less, on average, than gas-powered tank heaters. The big savings come over the long term. A tankless hot water heater has an expected lifespan of 20 years or more, while standard tank heaters will last an average of 10-15 years. 

Installation charges will add to the cost of any hot water heater if you’re not experienced in plumbing and wiring. I’m very happy we installed the Rheem tankless water heater in our building. It’s been a couple of weeks, and I haven’t seen a noticeable increase in our electricity usage.

Buy the Rheem tankless water heater on Amazon for $449.00

Product Comparisons

So, is the Rheem tankless water heater right for you?

The Rheem RTEX-18 was the right choice for our building, and now that I’ve installed a tankless water heater, I’m considering upgrading to an on-demand model for my home as well. I live in an area with a rural electric co-op, and the cost per kilowatt hour for electricity is higher than in many regions. I don’t like spending money to keep a whole tank of hot water hot, especially if I’m not using hot water frequently. Plus, the utility area in my building is very small, and the RTEX-18 doesn’t take up much space. To save space for heating and cooling needs, we also installed a Friedrich mini-split heat pump in the building. 

Is an electric tankless water heater right for you? That all depends on your personal needs. If you’re looking to save on energy costs by not having to keep a full tank of water heated 24/7, a tankless model could be a good choice. It’s ideal for lower hot water demands since it doesn’t store hot water. 

On the other hand, if you have a large family or high water usage (multiple showers and appliances), you may need to upgrade to a higher-capacity unit or go with a storage tank type. 

Meet the Tester

Glenda Taylor is a contractor, product tester, and writer focusing primarily on construction, DIY tools, and major appliances.

The post I Was Out of Space and Options—Then I Found the Rheem Tankless Water Heater appeared first on Bob Vila.