Whether you’re painting the living room or a patio table, applying a prep coat of primer to the surface can improve adherence, prevent peeling, and reduce the number of coats needed to finish the job. While all primers contain more resins and less pigment than paint, formulas vary from product to product. We tested some of the most popular options to find out which primer works best for different situations. Our number one pick is Rust-Oleum’s Zinsser Bulls Eye with its low odor and ability to work on multiple surfaces.

The right primer for your project depends on the environment you’ll be working in, the surface you’ll be painting, and your preferences for the time frame of the job and its final look. Read on to find out what makes a quality paint primer and why the below options rank as our top favorites among the best paint primers we tested.

1. BEST OVERALL: Rust-Oleum Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Water-Base Primer
2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Kilz Original Interior Primer
3. BEST ALL-PURPOSE: Kilz 2 All-Purpose Interior/Exterior Primer
4. BEST FOR METAL: Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer
5. BEST FOR GLOSSY SURFACES: Kilz Adhesion Interior/Exterior Primer
6. BEST FOR ODOR BLOCKING: Kilz Restoration Interior Primer
7. BEST FOR EXTERIOR: Kilz 3 Premium Interior/Exterior Primer
8. BEST FOR INTERIOR WALLS: Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint Interior Acrylic Latex

Product Comparison

Our Top Picks

We spent hours narrowing the paint primer market and testing the top-rated products. One or more of these recommendations for the best paint primer may suit your specific needs.

Best Overall

Rust-Oleum Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Water-Base Primer

See It

What We Like

• Low-VOC and low-odor formula
• Mold- and mildew-resistant
• Works on multiple surface types

What We Don’t Like

• Thin viscosity; second coat may be required for proper coverage

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water-based acrylic

Rust-Oleum is well known for its protective paints and coatings. Its Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 water-base primer is an all-purpose primer-sealer that sticks to various surfaces without sanding and works with any top coat. The brand is regarded as one of the top producers of rust-preventive paints.

The primer is low odor, low in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and provides excellent coverage on interior and exterior surfaces. It’s made from water-based acrylic and is designed to resist blistering, peeling, and mold and mildew growth. The primer is tintable and available in white or gray. It’s also available in spray-paint form.

We tested this primer on multiple surfaces, including drywall, wood, metal, and plastic. It readily stuck to all of those surfaces and provided a textured finished surface that easily held onto a top coat of paint. The primer did not completely block the water stain on drywall, but we expected that—most white primers do not. We thought the paint was thin and needed two coats on all surfaces to ensure an even, smooth top coat. Overall, we liked this primer’s versatility of use on multiple surfaces, making it our top choice.

Get the Rust-Oleum Zinsser paint primer at Amazon or Ace Hardware.

Best Bang for the Buck

Kilz Original Interior Primer

See It

What We Like

• Effectively blocks stains and odors
• Applies smoothly and evenly
• Lower-VOC formula

What We Don’t Like

• Strong odor

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Interior
• Recoat time: 2 hours or less
• Base material: Oil

Kilz is a trusted paint brand, especially for primers. Kilz Original interior primer is the company’s flagship primer designed to block most heavy interior stains on wood, drywall, plaster, paneling, wallpaper, masonry, brick, and painted metal. It also works on properly prepared glossy surfaces.

The primer is oil-based but can be used as a base coat for latex and oil paints. Kilz is our go-to primer for tough stains in our household. Previously, we had only used the spray-can version but found that the can version works just as well. We tested the primer on water stains on our drywall and as a base coat on various materials, including wood, brick, and metal. The primer adhered well to porous surfaces, but we did need to sand the metal before priming.

The white primer paint did a decent job blocking light-colored stains. However, in our experience with trying to hide stubborn stains on drywall, the primer works best at hiding stains when tinted gray.

Although it is available in a lower-VOC formula, it is not low VOC and the odor was strong. We recommend using a respirator or working in a well-ventilated area when using this primer. Overall, Kilz Original is a solid performer, and we highly recommend it for any ventilated interior primer application.

Get the Kilz Original paint primer at Ace Hardware.

Best All-Purpose

Kilz 2 All-Purpose Interior/Exterior Primer

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What We Like

• Minimal odor
• Mildew-resistant finish
• Easy soap-and-water cleanup
• Low-VOC formula

What We Don’t Like

• Only blocks light to medium stains

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water

Kilz 2 all-purpose interior/exterior primer is a general-purpose primer well suited for use on various DIY projects. This water-based primer has a drastically lower VOC content than the Original Kilz Primer, and it works under or over water-based or oil-based paints. It blocks light to medium stains and mild odors, and it leaves a mildew-resistant finish.

Kilz 2 all-purpose primer works well for general-purpose priming and sealing needs. In testing, it left a smooth base coat on drywall and bare wood. It did a moderate job blocking dark stains on walls, but it effectively blocked lighter stains like pencil marks, minor scuffs, and markers. We recommend using Kilz 2 for priming old walls before repainting or for any exterior surface as a base coat for exterior paint. It’s also handy to use a primer for craft painting projects.

Get the Kilz 2 paint primer at Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot. 

Best for Metal

Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer

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What We Like

• Prevents rust from growing in some areas
• Suitable for both indoor and outdoor use
• Weather- and corrosion-resistant

What We Don’t Like

• Metal surfaces should be sanded beforehand

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 24 hours
• Base material: Oil

Rust-Oleum Clean Metal primer is formulated to cover lightly rusted metals as well as bare and previously painted metals. It’s weather- and corrosion-resistant and bonds tightly to exterior/interior surfaces like wood, metal, concrete, and masonry.

This primer is designed primarily for use on metal, but it works well on other surfaces. It did a good job blocking rust stains on a metal bench we refinished, and it provided a smooth surface for a top coat. The only real drawback of this primer was that the smooth surfaces required prep work before use—smooth, hard, or glossy finishes need sanding for the primer to adhere. However, after applying onto sanded metal, it did form a durable finish, and the top coat went on beautifully.

Get the Rust-Oleum metal paint primer at Amazon, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Best for Glossy Surfaces

Kilz Adhesion Interior/Exterior Primer

See It

What We Like

• Bonds to glossy surfaces without sanding
• Can be used on products containing xylene or other solvents
• Easy soap-and-water cleanup after use

What We Don’t Like

• Not for wet floors or horizontal surfaces

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water

Kilz Adhesion interior/exterior primer is formulated to bond to various tough-to-paint surfaces such as PVC, vinyl, glass, tile, and glazed brick. The water-based primer offers the same stain- and odor-blocking properties as the other Kilz primers. Unlike the other primers in the Kilz line, Adhesion does not require sanding a glossy surface before primer application.

Since this primer is virtually identical in its stain and odor properties to the others in the Kilz lines, we primarily tested its ability to stick to slick surfaces. We applied the primer to plastic, metals, and glazed ceramic. We did not sand the surface before application. It did adhere to the surfaces pretty well, but we did find that applying the primer in thin, multiple layers produced better results. Although it took at least two coats, we prefer to paint two coats rather than sanding the entire surface first.

Get the Kilz Adhesion paint primer at Amazon.

Best for Odor Blocking

Kilz Restoration Interior Primer

See It

What We Like

• Minimal odor and low-VOC formula
• Easy soap-and-water cleanup
• Provides a smooth finish

What We Don’t Like

• Does not block or cover heavy or prominent stains

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Interior
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Water

Water, mold, and rust stains are tough to cover, but odors are even harder to conceal. Smoke, pet urine, and food odors often require using an oil-based or shellac-based primer to seal them into the surface before painting. However, Kilz Restoration interior primer offers the same performance as oil-based primers but with the easy cleanup convenience of water-based paint.

Like the other primers offered by Kilz, this primer did an adequate job of covering most light to medium stains. However, Kilz Restoration shines as an odor blocker. We tested this primer drywall in a room where smokers previously resided. The primer went on smoothly and sealed in the odor. Once the top coat was applied, there was no hint of the smell. It did a moderate job concealing old water stains, but we expected that.

Since this primer is mainly formulated for odor blocking, we suggest only using this primer for that purpose. Kilz Original primer is a better stain blocker.

Get the Kilz Restoration paint primer at Amazon, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Best for Exterior

Kilz 3 Premium Interior/Exterior Primer

See It

What We Like

• Blocks most medium to heavy stains
• No-VOC formula
• Great in moisture-prone areas

What We Don’t Like

• Not meant for applying to glossy surfaces

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Both
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Latex

Kilz 3 Premium interior/exterior primer is formulated to minimize problems caused by color changes, minor stains, surface textures, and porosity differences. This primer offers excellent adhesion, a mildew-resistant coating, and seals interior and exterior surfaces for a uniform finish.

In testing, we found that this primer did an excellent job sealing new wood framing on our covered deck. It left an ultrasmooth finish, and the top coat went on smoothly. The primed and painted wood has been through a few rainstorms and high humidity conditions for a few weeks, and the surface still looks amazing.

As a stain blocker, it did a decent job covering up an older painted surface with minor mold and dirt discoloration. The only con we found with this primer was that it’s not made to adhere to glossy surfaces without preparation. However, it’s an excellent primer for exterior use because it sticks readily to plaster, paneling, masonry, brick, and painted metal without issue.

Get the Kilz 3 Premium paint primer at Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot.

Best for Interior Walls

Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint Interior Acrylic Latex

See It

What We Like

• Thick paint goes on smoothly
• Can also be used on ceilings
• Tintable in Sherwin-Williams’ full color options
• Low-VOC formula

What We Don’t Like

• Expensive compared to similar options

Product Specs 

• Interior/exterior: Interior
• Recoat time: 1 hour
• Base material: Latex

Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint is the brand’s paint-and-primer combo available in interior and exterior formulations. The interior version is designed for one coat coverage on drywall, trim, and ceilings. SuperPaint creates a lasting finish and a surface that holds up to scrubbing.

We have used SuperPaint as our primary wall paint for years. It’s thicker than most interior paints, which allows it to cover in fewer coats than cheaper paints. The flat finish is perfect for ceilings, too. We could achieve solid coverage on walls in two coats, even over darker paint. Although we were able to cover a similar color wall in one coat in the past, we think it looks better with two coats of paint. The only con we have with this paint is that it’s expensive. However, Sherwin-Williams often offers promos that can help offset the cost.

Get the Sherwin-Williams paint primer at Sherwin-Williams.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Tested the Best Paint Primers

We tested each paint primer according to established rubrics, including how easy it was to apply, how well it adhered to various surfaces, and its stain- and odor-blocking abilities. We rated each primer based on these rubrics on a scale between 0 and 4 to determine a score. Lastly, we tested the primer’s durability and how attractive the final finish appeared on each surface.

We applied each primer to metal, masonry, drywall, and wood surfaces. The drywall surfaces included water stains, mildew, and lingering smoke odors. We applied two coats of primer to each surface and allowed it to dry for an hour, and then followed up with a flat white top coat to determine if there was any bleedthrough of stains and to judge the smoothness of the top coat.

What to Consider When Choosing a Paint Primer

When choosing a primer for your project, there are several features to consider. The best paint primer options efficiently cover multiple surfaces, block stains, and ensure an even, smooth top coat. Here are more details about important features to consider when choosing a paint primer.

Project Environment

Paint primers come in three formulas: interior/exterior, exterior, and interior.

Interior/exterior primers are suited for indoor and outdoor use, while exterior primers are designed for outdoor use only. Both contain additives that stave off UV-related fading and moisture-related mold issues; they also add flexibility to withstand frequent outdoor temperature changes, preventing the paint from peeling or cracking.

Interior primers, formulated without exterior additives, are only suitable for indoor use. Interior/exterior primer is the best bet for doing a range of painting jobs, indoors and out. Plus, choosing a primer that works inside and outside saves on the costs of buying separate interior and exterior products.

Surface

Each type of primer may adhere better to different surfaces. The following details the best primer type for common household surfaces:

• Bare wood: Apply an oil-based or latex primer to wood that has never been stained or painted to help seal the porous surface. Keep in mind that oil-based primers tend to emit more VOCs (smelly pollutants) than do latex primers.
• Drywall: Apply a latex primer to drywall, as an oil-based primer can raise the grain and make the surface look uneven.
• Stain-prone surfaces: Use a stain-blocking primer on stained wood, bare wood with high tannin content that can bleed out (e.g., cedar or redwood), interior walls with water or smoke stains, or cabinets/trim with grease stains. It will cover stains and keep them from bleeding into and discoloring top coats.
  • Choose latex stain-blocking primer if the stains are solvent-based (e.g., crayons or grease).
  • Choose an oil-based stain-blocking primer if the stain is water-based (e.g., water-based wood stain, smoke, or tannin).
• Painted wood: An oil-based primer is usually best for painted wood that shows chalking (a chalky powder on the surface as the paint binder degrades) or chipping; it will dry into a denser, smoother foundation to minimize these imperfections.
• Metal: Choose a rust-resistant oil-based primer on metals such as aluminum to avoid the formation of rust, which the water in latex primer can promote.
• Glossy surfaces: Bonding primer, formulated to stick to glossy surfaces, is a must for the slick likes of glass, plastic, or glazed tile.

Dedicated Primer vs. Paint-and-Primer in One

Self-priming paints—also known as paint-and-primer combo products—let users prime and paint a surface in a single step. But these two-in-one products are only recommended if all of the following are true:

• You’re not painting bare or stained wood.
• Your painting surface has no stains or signs of peeling.
• You’re repainting a previously painted surface in the same color or going from a lighter to a darker paint color.

Choose separate paint and primer to improve paint adhesion in the following situations:

• You’re painting bare or stained wood.
• You’re painting over a surface that has stains or is peeling.
• You’re switching from a darker to a lighter paint color.
• You want to use a paint with a different base than that of the primer. For example, use an oil-based primer with a latex paint to take advantage of the rot resistance of the oil primer and the lower VOCs and faster drying of the latex paint.
• You want to cover an old oil-based paint coat with a latex paint coat. An intervening layer of a dedicated primer is needed for optimal adhesion of the latex paint.

Tintability

Primer usually comes in white or gray. Use either color as is without tinting it or have the primer tinted to a hue that’s slightly lighter than the top coat. Tinting primer, which requires buying a primer labeled “tintable,” generally achieves a deeper, richer, and more uniform final color but is particularly recommended in the following situations:

• You’re changing the color from darker to lighter. The tinted primer reduces the number of paint coats needed to hide the darker base coat.
• For stubborn stains, like water or mildew, a tinted primer is necessary to block the stain effectively from bleeding through, especially when there is a light-color top coat.
• You’re changing from a lighter to a dramatically darker color, e.g., light blue to black. The tinted primer ensures that even if the top coat is uneven, no patches of white or gray primer will show through it.

Dry Time

Pay attention to the “dry-to-recoat” time specified on the primer packaging—an indication of when the primer is dry enough to be recoated either with another coat of primer or with paint. In general, latex primers have a shorter dry-to-recoat time of no more than 1 hour, whereas oil-based primers need 1 to 3 hours before they can be recoated.

FAQs

Meet the Tester

Debbie Wolfe is a photographer, author, and freelance writer in various niches. She has contributed hundreds of home, garden, and crafting articles and DIY tutorials for leading media outlets and retailers, including HGTV, Real Simple, Forbes Advisor, The Spruce, The Home Depot, Walmart, and Mother Earth News. She is the author of two DIY books: Do-It-Yourself Garden Projects and Crafts and Crafting with Herbs from Skyhorse Publishing. Her testing approach is straightforward and budget-minded.

Additional research provided by Manasa Reddigari.

The post 8 ​​Paint Primers That Provide a Blank Slate For Painting appeared first on Bob Vila.

If you’re thinking about updating a room with wood-paneled walls, your instinct might be to start fresh, either by tearing out the paneling or by concealing it behind drywall. Both of these options involve expenses that may be difficult to justify if you are on a budget. As long as your paneling is in decent condition, the least expensive way forward is to leave the paneling in place and paint it.

Regardless of whether your wood paneling is solid or veneer, it’s pretty easy to paint. If you’ve ever painted a piece of wood furniture, you’re probably already familiar with the basic steps, though in this case you’ll also need to think about protecting adjacent walls and trim, and accounting for the grooves in the paneling. Follow the steps in this guide to painting wood paneling, and you should get professional-level results.

Step 1: Clean the paneling with diluted TSP.

Dust, dirt, and oily fingerprints can prevent paint from adhering to wood paneling, so your first task is to thoroughly wash the wood-paneled walls with a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) and water. Before you use this toxic cleaner, put on full protective gear: full-sleeve clothing, rubber gloves, safety glasses, and a respiratory mask. Open windows in the room to adequately ventilate it. Then, dilute TSP per the instructions on the package in a bucket of water and wipe down the wood paneling with a sponge dampened in the solution.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I’ve painted wood paneling without thoroughly cleaning and priming, and it didn’t turn out perfect. The prep work is important. Clean the paneling with a wet rag to remove all dust and grime. A layer of primer will really help the paint and the overall end finish. A roller does most of the work, but a detail or sponge brush is really helpful for the gaps and textured elements on some panels.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

Step 2: Lightly sand the wood paneling.

Next, proceed to lightly sand the walls using a technique aptly known as “scuffing”; the goal here is to create a good mechanical bond between the paneled wall and the initial coat of primer that you will soon be applying. You’ll use a 220-grit sandpaper in even circular motions to do so.

Today’s primers are so good that you can probably skip the sanding, but I think it’s worth doing. Even though it takes only 20 or 30 minutes, scuffing gives you long-lasting insurance against chipping paint. Just be sure to wear a dust mask and, for health reasons as well as cleanliness, wipe away dust with a tack cloth or damp rag as you go. (Now may also be the time to vacuum the floor so that you don’t track dust room to room.)

Step 3: Protect the floor from paint splatter using drop cloths and painter’s tape.

Save yourself from having to scrub errant paint drips and splatter off the floor after the paint job is complete by laying down a bunch of old newspaper or a drop cloth. If there is molding or ceiling that you do not want the paint to inadvertently color.

Step 4: Apply two thin coats of stain-blocking primer.

Having finished scuffing the full width and height of the wood paneling to be painted, give the surface its initial coat of primer to prevent any of the wood grain, imperfections, and the like from showing through the final coat of paint.

Choosing the right primer is key. For solid wood, use a water-based product; for veneer, use a shellac-based one. While it’s not strictly necessary to do so, you can have the primer tinted to match the shade you eventually plan to paint the wood paneling. One detail you absolutely should look out for? The words “stain-blocking” on the label. This trait helps hide any knots that appear throughout the wood paneling, or else you may see them bleed through your weekend paint job sometime in the future.

Start in with a 2-inch high-quality angle sash brush to cut in at corners, then keep it handy to dab away drips as you work.

Since you’ll be covering such a large surface, switch to a roller for the rest of the paint job—you’ll still be able to coat the grooves of paneled walls just fine. In order to avoid ending up with the orange peel–like texture that roller-applied paints sometimes produce, opt to use a foam sponge roller cover (it’s inexpensive and easily purchased at your local paint supply store or home improvement center).

Two thin primer coats are normally sufficient. Check your can of primer for instructions on exactly how long to wait between coats.

Step 5: Apply at least two thin coats of paint.

Top with your chosen paint applied in the same manner as described in Step 4. While you’re rolling on the paint in thin layers, pay close attention to how much collects in the panel grooves and wipe out any excess that might be too thick and become tacky once dry.

Lightly sand the surface between coats, and expect to do two or three in total (leaving adequate dry time between each). It’ll be a weekend project for sure, but, when you finish, you’ll certainly admire the difference painted wood paneling can make in a room! Whether you’ve chosen to paint wood paneling a lighter color to for a very airy farmhouse vibe or a matte black for something cozier and more dramatic, like a library, the fresh color will definitely deliver results.

The post How to Paint Wood Wall Paneling appeared first on Bob Vila.

Drywall sanders help make the laborious process of preparing sheetrock for paint or plaster quicker and easier. These helpful tools are available as both manually powered pole sanders and options with high-speed motors that hook to convenient dust collection systems. To help you choose the version that’s right for your next DIY project, we put seven popular models through hands-on tests and reached out to a construction expert for additional insights. 

Based on our efforts, we chose the Wen 6377 Variable-Speed Dual-Head Drywall Sander as the top sheetrock sander for its powerful corded construction, easy-to-maneuver design, and effective wet/dry dust collection hose. Still, a few of the other tools we tested are worth considering. Keep reading to learn more about all the products that won awards and get details on which features matter most when selecting from among the best drywall sanders. 

1. BEST OVERALL: Wen 6377 Variable-Speed Dual-Head Drywall Sander
    ↓ Jump to Review
2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Hyde 09170 Dust-Free Pole Sander Kit
   ↓ Jump to Review
3. BEST POLE SANDER: Marshalltown 48″ Pole Sander With Aluminum Handle
   ↓ Jump to Review
4. BEST CORDLESS: DeWalt 20V Max* Cordless Drywall Sander
   ↓ Jump to Review

Best Drywall Sanders Comparison Chart

Our Top Picks

The following products are our picks for the best drywall sanders available today. We suggest you compare each option closely before choosing the right ceiling sander on a pole or power drywall sander for your needs.

Best Overall

Wen 6377 Variable-Speed Dual-Head Drywall Sander

See It

What We Like

• 2 sanding heads for bulk and detailed work
• Handle folds for storage and telescopes for tall spaces
• Adjustable shoulder strap makes it easier to handle

What We Don’t Like

• Doesn’t come with a dust bag

Specs 

• Type: Corded electric
• Weight: 17.4 pounds
• Dust collection: Hose for wet/dry vac

The Wen 6377 drywall sanding vacuum is a corded electric model with a 5-amp head-mounted motor that pivots and swivels for easy sanding. It offers variable speeds between 600 and 1,500 revolutions per minute (RPM), making quick work of big projects. It comes with a standard 8.5-inch round head for large spaces and a triangular head to reach corners, and no tools are necessary to switch between the two. 

We found we didn’t use the triangular head all that often in our tests, but having the option to do so is nice since hand-sounding corners with a block is the only alternative. When working on the ceiling, we appreciated the relatively light weight of this tool (just 9 pounds without one of the swappable heads attached) and the fact that the weight is fairly evenly distributed. The adjustable shoulder strap made using and carrying it even easier, and the 15-foot hose allowed us to get up high while remaining connected to our wet/dry vac. Still, it would be nice if this drywall sanding vacuum tool came with a bag. It does, however, come with a starter pack of sanding sheets that includes five of both round and triangle in grits of 60, 80, 120, 150, 180, and 240.

What our tester says: “The swappable heads are great, as the rotary head can do the bulk of the work while the triangle-shaped head gets into corners—plus, they’re very easy to change. We also really liked the telescoping and folding handle, which felt sturdy and secure during use but was easy to break down for storage.”—Tom Scalisi, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the Wen drywall sander at Lowe’s, The Home Depot, or Wen.

Best Bang for the Buck

Hyde 09170 Dust-Free Pole Sander Kit

See It

What We Like

• Comes with a vacuum hose and adapter
• Lightweight design enables extended use
• Head stays flat during use, which we prefer over those that flip

What We Don’t Like

• Doesn’t come with a pole

Specs 

• Type: Manual pole
• Weight: 2.36 pounds
• Dust collection: Hose for wet/dry vac

Manual pole sanders offer a low-cost alternative to buying an electric sander machine for drywall, but their usual drawback (apart from the physical effort required) is that drywall dust gets everywhere. However, since the Hyde 09170 vacuum sander includes a hose attachment plus an adapter that fits most wet/dry vacs, it strikes an excellent balance between affordable and user-friendly.

Though this manual sander requires more physical input than a power option, we appreciated how much cleanup effort the hose saves us since it did such a good job collecting sanding dust. It even has adjustable vents that allow you to regulate the suction level to ensure you suck up as much dust as possible. We also liked that the swiveling head clamps to a sanding screen rather than using hook-and-loop abrasives and that the head remains flat during use instead of flipping over like many pole sanders do. Though this dust-free drywall sander kit comes with a washable, reusable screen, it doesn’t include a handle. It does have universal threads, however, so it will work with a standard broom or painter’s pole. 

Get the Hyde drywall sander at Amazon, Ace Hardware, or Target.

Best Pole Sander

Marshalltown 48" Pole Sander With Aluminum Handle

See It

What We Like

• Quick-clamp makes installing sanding screens easy
• No-flip swivel maneuvers without flipping
• Included pole is comfortable and durable

What We Don’t Like

• Pole is double female and won’t fit other tools

Specs 

• Type: Manual pole
• Weight: 1.6 pounds
• Dust collection: None

A manual pole sander is a cheap and efficient solution for those on a tight budget or with only a modest amount of drywall to sand. While it doesn’t have a dust collection system like the other manual sander we recommend, we like that this model comes with a lightweight aluminum pole, which many rivals omit. It also has a reinforced cast aluminum head that’s lightweight and maneuverable yet doesn’t flex. In our tests, the free-swiveling head easily kept the abrasive flat against the wall instead of flipping over and marring the compound.

Since we’ve used this type of drywall pole sander for years, we feel like we know a quality tool when we see one, and our tests proved our instincts were correct. We loved that this model uses durable sanding screens instead of lower-quality sanding discs and that its quick-action clamps make sanding head replacement incredibly easy. We also really liked the aluminum construction and smooth paint finish of the included pole, which is so nice that we’d like to use it with other tools. Unfortunately, we can’t because both ends are female threads (one universal, one machine), so it won’t work with other pole-mounted tools. 

Get the Marshalltown pole sander at Amazon. 

Best Cordless

DeWalt 20V Max* Cordless Drywall Sander

See It

What We Like

• Cordless design removes tripping hazard of cord
• Quick-release length adjustment is easy to use 
• Has a wireless on/off switch for compatible dust collectors 

What We Don’t Like

• Weight and large tube make use awkward at times

Specs 

• Type: Cordless electric
• Weight: 12.6 pounds 
• Dust collection: NoneHose connection (no hose included)

No power? No problem. The DeWalt cordless drywall sander offers you the ability to work in locations where no electricity is available. The 20-volt brushless motor delivers competitive power, driving the 9-inch head at speeds from 700 to 1,200 RPM. It also features a wireless on/off control when paired with a compatible dust collector. 

There was a lot to like about this model during testing. The lack of a cord is a serious plus, and we found sanding a ceiling much easier without worrying about tripping. To be fair, we did still have to watch out for the vacuum hose, but that’s worth it since it eliminates so much mess. On the flip side, the 5-amp-hour battery only lasts about 30 minutes, so many users will need to invest in a second battery to avoid constant interruptions to recharge. The tool also felt heavier than 12.6 pounds, but that could be because the tube, which doubles as a handle, is a bit wide, which is not the most ergonomic design. 

What our tester says: “We really liked this unit’s quick-release clamp, which made it easy to adjust the sander’s length. We noticed we could go from walls to ceilings much quicker with this model than with those where you have to unscrew clamps and screw them back down again.”—Tom Scalisi, Product Reviews tester and writer

Get the DeWalt drywall sander (tool only) at Amazon, Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, or The Home Depot (with batteries and charger). 

ALSO TESTED

The high-speed, cable-driven F2C Variable-Speed Electric Drywall Sander has pretty decent user reviews, and we assumed we’d agree when we first started testing. However, the cable created excessive tension on the front of the sanding pad that forced it into fresh compound, and the fact that the motor is in the handle meant its fan kept blowing dust everywhere. We agree with users that its speed and weight are great, but we still think much better options are available. 

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How We Tested the Best Drywall Sanders

To ensure the drywall sanders we included in this guide can handle typical household tasks, we called upon our many years of experience with power tools, hand tools, and DIY projects. We selected seven top-rated sanders and used each for several days, completing drywall repair and working on a test wall and ceiling. 

Since we’re also familiar with how to sand drywall, we used our knowledge to rate each option on speed, comfort, performance, and dust collection. We removed the sanders that failed our tests from our list and gave awards to the remaining picks based on their strengths. 

What to Consider When Choosing a Drywall Sander

Those who already own a sander might wonder whether a dedicated drywall sander is really necessary. While random orbital or detail sanders might be enough for small areas, trying to sand a whole room with one gets old quickly. Knowing which features to look for before using a manual or power sander on drywall will help you choose the right tool for the job.

Types of Drywall Sanders

While you can find manual sanding blocks in any hardware store, their small size and the physical effort required to use them make them impractical for sanding drywall. The most basic alternative is a larger pad attached to a pole. Not surprisingly, these types of sanders are called pole sanders. Their heads can be oblong or round and usually attach to a hook-and-loop sanding disc or sanding screen. Advanced versions incorporate a hose you can attach to a wet/dry vac.

The other option is an eclectic sander, either a portable cable sander or a cordless version that’s handheld or attached to a pole. These are effectively large-diameter orbital drywall sanders, and they usually hook up to a wet/dry vac or have their own dust-collection system. A self-contained dustless drywall sander is a rapid way to finish drywall and dramatically reduces cleanup time.

Motor Power and Speed

Electric drywall vacuum sanders allow DIYers and professionals to work faster. Since their heads vary from 7 inches to 9 inches, these tools must have a reasonably powerful motor to drive them efficiently. A 5-amp motor should be enough, but those with bigger projects may want to look for a 7-amp model.

Cordless models are rated in volts, which reflects the battery power, and most of the models currently available are 20 volts. The Ah capacity of the battery is another important element. The higher the number, the longer the tool can run without needing recharging. Pay attention when buying a cordless sander, as many are sold “bare.” While the price might look attractive, the battery and the charger cost extra.

Electric drywall sanders also offer variable speeds, improving control for rapid material removal or fine finishing. The specifics will vary depending on the model, but the tools we considered ran between 500 and 2,000 RPM.

Flexibility, Hose Length, and Weight

Sanding drywall usually involves working up from the floor to the ceiling and possibly across the ceiling surface. The reach provided by the drywall sander has a major impact on convenience. Handheld electric models—much like an orbital sander for drywall but with a larger head—are often more affordable than long-reach versions, but you’ll need a ladder to reach the top of walls.

Low-cost manual pole sanders can offer good reach and have articulated joints that allow for multiple sanding angles. However, they may not come with a pole. Some manual sanders have dust collection, but you’ll still want to check that the included hose is long enough to reach your wet/dry vac. If the hose is on the short side, you’ll need to keep the collecting bag or vacuum close, meaning it could get in the way. 

Weight also is an important factor since most electric models have head-mounted motors. A heavy tool will prove tiring, particularly if you need to use the drywall sander above shoulder height for extended periods. Some vacuum bags have shoulder straps to overcome this problem.

Sanding Discs and Screens

Many drywall sanders use inexpensive and easy-to-change hook-and-loop discs. These come in a range of grits, from 60 grit for fast material removal to 220 grit for final finishing before painting. The challenge with standard sanding discs is that the disc can clog quickly, even on drywall sanders with dust collection. 

Sanding screens are an alternative that can fit some tools. The mesh screen is resistant to tearing and doesn’t clog as easily. Many can be rinsed and reused, whereas discs are usually disposable. There is a wide range of sanding screens available for rectangular pole sanders, which attach via clamps or clips. It can be difficult, however, to find screens for 9-inch-diameter heads that take hook-and-loop discs.

FAQs

While the technical information above may have answered many of your questions on the best drywall sanders, it’s possible you still have a few lingering queries. The following answers to frequently asked questions should help. 

Meet the Tester

Tom Scalisi is a full-time DIY and construction writer for many of the largest websites in the industry, including BobVila.com, This Old House, Family Handyman, and Forbes. He spent years working in the trades and industrial maintenance, undertaking more drywall projects than he can count.

Additional research provided by Bob Beacham.

The post The Best Drywall Sanders for Quick and Easy Sheetrock Smoothing, Tested appeared first on Bob Vila.

Unless you live in an older home with plaster and lath walls, then you’re likely surrounded by panels of compacted gypsum powder that make up the interior walls and ceilings in many homes. While most of us are familiar with standard white board drywall sheets, there is actually a wide variety of drywall types. They come in such mysterious sounding names as blue wall, green wall, and purple wall, Type C, and Type X. 

Since these names provide very little insight into when and where you should use them, selecting drywall panels for your next home renovation project can be more than a little confusing. We tapped Mitch Coluzzi, who’s flipped hundreds of homes for SoldFast.com as the home buying company’s head of construction, to help us make sense of it all. With his help, we’ve assembled a list of the 10 most common types of drywall, complete with descriptions and intended applications. 

1. White Board

The most common type of drywall, white board, is made from compressed gypsum powder that’s held in place by heavy grade paper. White board is used to create walls and ceilings in bedrooms, living rooms, and hallways. It’s the most affordable type of drywall and comes in a broad range of thicknesses. Unlike other types of drywall, white board doesn’t have any mildew or mold resistance, so it’s not suitable for bathrooms or kitchens. 

Best For: White board is best used for ceilings and walls in bedrooms, hallways, and living areas. 

Common Sizes

1/4 inch: This thinner drywall thickness is used for covering worn out, damaged drywall. Since it’s also more bendable than thicker drywall, ¼-inch drywall is also suitable for creating curved walls.

3/8 inch: Slightly thicker than 1/4-inch drywall, 3/8-inch drywall is used to repair holes in drywall and can also be used for walls with a slight curve.

1/2 inch: The most common thickness of white board, 1/2-inch drywall is the standard for creating interior walls.

5/8 inch: Whereas 1/2-inch drywall is typically used for walls, this thicker drywall is the standard for ceilings. 

2. Green Board

Green board is a moisture-resistant drywall that gets its name from the green-colored wax paper backing that gives it its resistance to water. Its moisture-resistant qualities make it a popular choice for kitchens and bathrooms, though Coluzzi notes that you should only use it for walls and ceilings that do not come into contact with water. 

Best For: Its resistance to moisture makes it suitable for walls in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms. 

3. Blue Board

Blue board is a porous type of drywall that is designed specifically to bond with veneer plaster. Unlike white board drywall, which has seams you must tape, mud, and sand multiple times, blue board is simply taped then veneered over with a thick layer of plaster. While this method is expensive and requires technique and skill that’s beyond what the average DIYer can handle, it produces an aesthetically superior finish that’s more durable than standard drywall.  

Best For: Blue board is specifically designed for veneer plastering. 

4. Purple Board

Purple board, a type of drywall made by Gold Bond Building Products, has a gypsum core that’s resistant to moisture, mildew and mold. These qualities make purple board ideal for areas prone to moisture. “Purple is water-, mold-, and mildew-resistant and should be used at any wet location,” Colluzi says. 

This mold-resistant drywall also has a heavier paper coating than standard white board, which makes it more resistant to scuffs, dents, and scratches. Its ability to endure abuse makes purple board an attractive drywall option for high-traffic parts of the home, such as hallways, stairwells, and garages.

Best For: Wet humid areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms, and high-traffic parts of the home. 

5. Paperless

Paperless drywall uses a moisture-resistant fiberglass covering instead of paper. This design protects the drywall from water, preventing mold and mildew growth, while also making it stronger and more durable than traditional drywall that uses a paper covering. This makes paperless drywall ideal for bath and shower walls that are above the tile line and behind toilets and vanities. Since paperless drywall is also Greenguard certified, it emits very few volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which is good for indoor air quality. 

Best For: Paperless drywall’s moisture resistance makes it ideal for use above the tile line in showers and behind sinks. 

6. Cement Board

This drywall material is made from cement mixed with fibers that give it enhanced structural integrity and excellent moisture resistance. Also called backer board, cement board’s rigid structure and water-resistant qualities make it a common underlayment for tile in bathrooms and kitchens. 

“Cement board is used in direct wet locations with two thin layers of waterproofing membrane rolled on,” says Coluzzi. Due to its heavier weight, most cement board is sold in smaller 3-foot-by-5-foot sheets. 

Best For: Cement board is an ideal substrate for tile in bathrooms and kitchens. 

7. Type X

This 5/8-inch thick drywall offers a greater degree of fire resistance than other types of drywall thanks to glass fibers in its core that make it significantly more fire-resistant than standard drywall. Whereas standard drywall can withstand fire for 30 minutes, type X drywall has a 1-hour fire rating. Though sometimes used in homes, type X drywall is usually installed in commercial buildings, such as hotels, schools, and office buildings. It’s usually used to add fire protection around utility rooms and furnaces and to separate various fire zones within a building. 

Best For: Typically used in commercial buildings to meet certain fire safety codes. 

8. Type C

Similar to Type X drywall, type C is a fire-resistant type of drywall. Like Type X, type C is 5/8-inch thick and has a gypsum core infused with glass fibers. Since type C has a higher percentage of glass fibers in its core, it’s more fire-resistant than type X. While type X drywall is commonly used for walls, type C is a common fire-resistant drywall to use for ceilings and other horizontal applications that must meet certain fire resistance codes. 

“For fire-rated applications, we used type X on walls and C on ceilings because C is lighter and counts as 2X layers,” Colluzzi says. 

Best For: While type C is most often used in commercial applications, it can be used in homes for ceilings in utility rooms with furnaces.  

9. Soundproof

Soundproof drywall is made by sandwiching layers of viscoelastic materials and ceramics between gypsum. These additives reflect sound waves, effectively trapping them in the wall to reduce noise. Soundproof drywall is typically used in entertainment rooms, music studios and for shared walls in apartment buildings.  

Best For: Soundproof drywall is a good solution for dampening noise from an entertainment room or in-home music studio. 

10. VOC-Absorbing Drywall 

This advanced type of drywall has additives built into it that capture and neutralize VOCs in a home as air flows through the walls, improving the overall indoor air quality of a home. Some VOC-absorbing drywall products can capture and convert VOCs for up to 75 years and continue to work even when painted with multiple coats of paint. 

Best For: While VOC absorbing drywall is particularly useful for rooms prone to high VOCs, such as drywall for basements, garages, and workshops, this type of drywall can also be used throughout a home to improve its overall air quality.

The post These Are the Types of Drywall Every DIYer Should Know appeared first on Bob Vila.

Covering your wall with a large floor-to-ceiling mirror seemed like such a good idea back in the 1980s, but a lot has changed in the past 40 years. Today, that expansive feature can really date an interior. Homeowners are even looking to do away with large, unframed mirrors in the bathroom that span the wall from countertop to ceiling for something with more shape and personality.

The good news is that, ripping out a glued-on wall mirror and patching the wall underneath is a DIY that patient homeowners can do so themselves. The wall repair work can range from patching divots to skim coating and sanding the entire wall, depending on how carefully you’ve removed the mirror and adhesive.

3 Ways to Remove a Mirror That’s Been Glued to the Wall

These are the three methods for taking down a wall mirror that’s been mounted with glue. The solutions range from slow and neat to quick but dangerous and messy:

1. Saw and slice.

Starting at an outside corner, you slide a wire saw between the wall and the mirror and work the saw back and forth to cut through the adhesive. This method requires a lot of physical effort and can be frustrating because the wire clogs easily with adhesive.

2. Smash and grab.

This method involves using a hammer to smash the wall mirror, and then using a hair dryer and a 3-inch putty knife to pry off the remaining adhesive portions. This is the the fastest removal method, but it’s also the most dangerous and leaves the biggest mess. Even with careful vacuuming and cleanup, you may find glass pieces in the room months after the fact.

3. Heat and pry.

This method involves heating the glass tile with a hair dryer in order to soften the adhesive behind it, then gently prying the tile off the wall. Though this method takes the longest, it results in the least glass breakage and removes the most adhesive.

We recommend using the hair dryer method because it leaves your wall in the best shape, and saves you time during the patching phase. See below for step-by-step instructions for removing a wall mirror using this method. Plan to set aside a full day for your work.

Using Heat and a Putty Knife to Remove a Wall Mirror

Step 1: Wear personal protective equipment and clothing to prevent injuries.

Dress in long sleeves, long pants, and work boots to protect skin and feet from any falling glass. Wear heavy leather work gloves and eye protection at all times, from start to final cleanup.

Step 2: Prepare your work area for easier cleanup later.

Spread a heavy canvas drop cloth below the tiles, extending it far as possible into the room to catch any shards of glass. Relocate a metal garbage can to your work area and plan to empty it often throughout this process—glass is heavy, so you won’t want to wait to haul it all out at the end!

Step 3: Cover the wall mirror tiles with self-adhesive contact paper.

Peel off the back of a self-adhesive shelf or drawer liner and apply the sticky vinyl film across the mirror, pressing it firmly against the glass. This should hold broken pieces together and greatly reduce the risk of flying glass. Plus, it provides a safer working environment and faster cleanup.

Then, if you are in fact dealing with tiles and not a single stretch of unframed mirror, slice around each tile with a utility knife to separate the tiles.

Tried-and-True Advice

“When I was removing a large, glued-on wall mirror, I realized how important it was to have extra support in case the mirror suddenly detached from the wall. Before starting, I positioned a sturdy step ladder sideways in front of the mirror, and put a thick towel over it to act as a padded barrier. This setup gave me peace of mind, knowing that if the mirror came loose unexpectedly, it wouldn’t fall to the ground and shatter.

I also asked a friend to help, which made a huge difference. Having an extra set of hands to steady the mirror as I worked made the process much safer and more manageable. Taking these precautions can save you a lot of stress and prevent potential accidents.”

—Paul Rankin, Contributing Writer

Step 4: Heat and pry the tiles off.

Start in an area (either a side or corner) where you will have the most room to wedge a large drywall knife between the wall and the mirror. Pick a side of the mirror that doesn’t butt up against a wall or countertop. Then, heat one entire glass tile or, on a large bathroom mirror, the area closest to the prying edge with your hair dryer set on high heat for a few minutes so that it warms the adhesive behind the mirror.

Slide a 3-inch putty knife behind the tile and move it around to help you locate the adhesive. Every installation is different, but glue typically goes on in five blobs per tile—one near each corner, and one in the middle of the glass—and not immediately around the edges because that would have risked adhesive bleeding out the seams. Once you’ve hit the patch of adhesive, then partially slip a 6-inch drywall knife slightly under the glass tile to start separating it from the wall enough to insert a small pry bar.

Carefully wedge the pry bar in near one adhesive area, and gently pry to force the tile out slightly. If you pry against the drywall knife rather than the wall, you’re less likely to scrape, scuff, or otherwise damage the wall behind the mirror with your tools. Add more heat to soften the glue as necessary.

Repeat at each adhesive location until you feel the entire tile has loosened. Once you pry it up enough to get your fingers under, you can grab its edges (carefully) with your hands and pop it off. From that point on, after you’ve established what pattern the glue went on in during the installation, heat the mirror only in the area directly above the adhesive. That’ll speed up the project.

Step 5: Remove adhesive that didn’t come off the wall with the mirror.

Inspect the wall that the mirror was on for remaining adhesive. Use the hair dryer and the 3-inch putty knife to scrape away all remaining adhesive, even if it tears off the drywall paper. You can patch that in the next step.

Step 6: Repair the wall.

Partially patch the drywall with lightweight, fast-setting joint compound like Easy Sand 45. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for application.

Forty-five to 90 minutes later, after the setting compound has hardened, apply a layer of topping compound. Why switch? A topping compound is easier to spread or “feather out” with a knife and sand than fast-setting compounds. Again, apply and let it dry fully for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer. Then, sand the wall in full.

If the surface looks terribly uneven, skim-coat the wall with a thin coating of lightweight joint compound and sand when dry.

With all mirror and adhesive removed and imperfections filled, your repaired wall is ready to prime the entire wall with a high-quality drywall primer and paint.

The post How to Remove a Wall Mirror appeared first on Bob Vila.

Half of the battle with common home repairs is often picking the correct material to use. And when two products seem to have some overlap in their intended purpose—as spackle and joint compound do—the choice can get even trickier.

Is joint compound the same as spackle? Even though they look almost identical to the untrained eye and both are used in wall and ceiling repair and construction, they aren’t the same. The differences affect factors like dry time, shrinkage, and project scope. Generally, spackle is best for small repairs and joint compound is used for larger drywall projects. Still, there are plenty of different products in both categories, making it tough for new DIYers to choose the right one. 

If you’re about to tackle drywall installation or repair, read on to learn more about joint compound vs. spackle so that you are ready to handle that next project like a pro.

What is joint compound?

Joint compound (also known as “drywall mud,” “Sheetrock mud,” or simply “mud”) is comprised mainly of gypsum dust and can be bought in bags of ready-to-mix powders or in pre-mixed tubs. There are also quick-set joint compound options that can speed up the typical 24-hour wait to just under an hour. 

Types of joint compound

The most popular types of drywall mud include all-purpose, quick-setting, taping, and topping.   

• All-purpose joint compounds, like the USG Sheetrock all-purpose joint compound, are designed for easy application to drywall seams. 
• A quick-setting joint compound is better suited to wall and ceiling patching jobs because it dries more quickly. ProForm Quick Set Lite, for example, dries in just 45 minutes. 
• Taping joint compounds are the easiest to apply, have the lowest amount of shrinkage, and are used over drywall tape to smooth out the seams between drywall sheets.  
• Topping joint compounds are designed for the top coat of drywall seams, and they are designed to be smooth and free of air bubbles.

What is spackle?

Spackle, made of gypsum powder and binders, has a gooey paste-like consistency and is sold pre-mixed in tubs. When making minor repairs to plaster or Sheetrock gaps that are less than ¼-inch deep or wide, spackle is a good option because it’s used to fill small dings and dents, like nail holes, in walls. 

Spackle dries more quickly and with less shrinkage than joint compound, and that fast dry time (usually about 30 minutes) means you can sand and paint over the filled flaws almost right away.

Types of spackle

Spackle varieties are elastic, minimizing shrinkage. Types include: 

• Lightweight spackle like DAP vinyl spackling is made with a vinyl binding agent and is suitable for small repairs that are less than ¼ inch wide or deep.
• All-purpose formulations, such as DryDex heavyweight spackle are made with acrylic like and can handle holes up to ¾ inch in diameter. 
• Large-hole repair spackle products like the 3M High Strength Large Hole Repair Kit are made to fix holes up to 3 inches wide. These kits usually come with a small piece of mesh to provide a backer to which the spackle can adhere.

Key Differences Between Joint Compound and Spackle

One distinctive difference between spackle and joint compound is the latter’s frosting-like consistency, whereas spackle is usually lighter. Here are a few more key differences. 

Joint compound can be substituted for spackle if need be, but not vice versa.

Got a tub of joint compound left over from a previous renovation? Feel free to substitute drywall mud for spackle for small drywall repairs. Just be aware that joint compound runs the risk of shrinking, which calls for multiple coats and a longer dry time—sometimes up to 24 hours.

On the other hand, if you’re all out of joint compound but have what looks like enough spackle to patch a large hole or finish your drywall installation, hold off. You’re better off going back to the hardware store for more drywall mud instead. Spackle (especially the lightweight variety) dries too quickly for the kind of coverage needed to make big repairs or install drywall, jobs that definitely call for joint compound.

Both products can dry out quickly during use as they’re exposed to air.

Even though there are differences between drywall compound vs spackle, they both react to air the same way. It’s important to work quickly with both joint compound and spackle, and you should keep either product covered when not in use. If you’re mixing up your own DIY spackle or joint compound with water and a powder mix, only make as much needed for the task at hand.

Joint compound is most often used when hanging new drywall.

During drywall installation, contractors affix large sheets of gypsum sheet to awall’s framing, apply drywall tape to the seams between the sheets, and then cover the tape with joint compound. With a little bit of finish work, the joint compound helps create a smooth surface with undetectable seams. Spackle isn’t suited for this purpose because its quick-drying nature gives you less flexibility and working time, which makes determining whether to use spackle vs. joint compound relatively straightforward when installing new drywall.

The post Joint Compound vs. Spackle: What’s the Difference?  appeared first on Bob Vila.

Learning how to texture a wall can help DIYers transform boring surfaces or newly built walls into visually appealing ones with rustic charm or depth. Texturing walls also can help hide imperfections that might exist. 

DIYers can choose from several methods and tools to apply and create texture, and we’ve addressed five common wall texturing methods, incorporating advice from painting professionals. 

Wall Texture Types

Simply rolling texture onto bare or damaged walls can improve their appearance, but several types of texturing can look more professional and purposeful. According to Chuck Reger, franchise business coach with Five Star Painting, a Neighborly company, some are easier for DIYers than others. “Knockdown and orange peel are manageable for beginners; skip trowel and sand swirl demand more skill and patience,” says Reger. Common types of wall texture are:

• Comb: This is a simple technique, creating thin lines in either direction, or even swirls, with a comb tool or notched trowel.
• Popcorn: Though popcorn walls and ceilings hark back to the ‘70s, the texture goes on easily and is superb at hiding imperfections; it is typically achieved with a sprayer.
• Orange peel: This texture has smaller bumps than popcorn texture, and is easier to clean. Spray the texture material on in small splatters from a can or a spray hopper. (This article’s feature image, courtesy of Zoe Grant at DBD Lifestyles, highlights the orange-peel technique in an Alice in Wonderland-themed bathroom.)
• Knockdown: Making a second pass over orange peel texture with a trowel or sponge to flatten peaks and bumps gives the wall this stucco-like appearance. For stomp technique, smack a stiff brush repeatedly against the compound. Some of the mud pulls away from the wall with each strike. Before it dries, eliminate unwanted peaks with a knife or paint scraper.
• Swirl or sand swirl: Swirls create both texture and movement on a wall by using a trowel to create a swirl pattern (or by using a special brush or roller for complete circles). This texturing type requires some skill, and might be best left to a professional.
• Slap brush: This technique creates a random pattern of edges or bumps with a stiff brush, and requires more skill than other texture types.
• Slap brush knockdown: Combining slap brush and the flattening of knockdown, this more advanced texture type involves several tools to accomplish a finished look with random patterns of wide lines.
• Skip trowel: Similar to knockdown, this type involves applying texture with a sprayer and then using a trowel to pull the material around, lifting every so often for the skipped look.

Project Overview

Working Time: About 3 hours for a standard 10-foot by 10-foot wall
Total Time: 27 hours, including drying time
Skill Level: Beginner to expert, depending on the texture type chosen
Estimated Cost: From $30 to $1,000 (50 cents to $2 per square foot for a pro)

Before You Begin

Before applying texture to a wall, decide the best method and texture type for the look you want to achieve. Also assess tools you have on hand, the cost of materials and tools, and your DIY wall texture skills. No matter the method, start with a smooth, even surface “for better texture adhesion and a uniform finish,” says Reger. The existing drywall “should be free from any cracks and the drywall tape needs to be skim coated and sanded,” he says. Painted walls in good condition need only a coat of primer before texturing, says Reger.

Be sure the surface is clean and that skim coats or primers are dry. Then, gather all the tools you need so you can work relatively quickly to prevent premature drying of your texture material while you search for tools or supplies. In addition to specific tools listed with each below, gather typical painting project supplies like drop cloths to protect surfaces, a ladder, and a brush or sponge to cut into corners.

How to Texture Walls With Joint Compound 

SUPPLIES
Premixed joint compound
Water
Clean bucket or pail for mixing
Drill with mixing wand
Trowel or wide compound knife
Drywall mud pan (if desired)
Sponge, roller, notched trowel, or brush, depending on texture type desired

Also known as drywall mud, joint compound is a material designed to cover drywall tape or imperfections.  When working with joint compound, avoid applying it to a large area; work in patches as you note how quickly the material dries on the wall. Follow these basic steps to apply the compound and add texture:

• Add water to the compound just before applying, according to the product’s label directions and how you will apply the material. 
• Mix the water in thoroughly, using a drill with a mixing wand if possible, until it has the consistency ranging from thick pancake batter to peanut butter (thicker for a more detailed or defined pattern).
• Apply the watered-down compound to your wall using a paint roller or trowel. A trowel can apply thicker layers over problem areas.
• If using a trowel or compound knife, hold the tool at an angle (of about 15 degrees), spreading as you apply. 
• Go back over the compound with a trowel to knock down peaks or create your desired texture with a specific tool. For example, dab with a sponge or brush, use a special swirl brush or roller, or use a notched trowel to create ridges or lines.
• Before the texture dries, step back and check your work periodically.
• Check the work again when you’ve finished a wall, looking for areas that lack texture or have too much, adding compound or adjusting texture as needed.
• Allow joint compound to dry thoroughly (typically 24 hours) before covering the wall with paint.

How to Texture Walls With Paint

SUPPLIES
Primer
Textured paint or texture additive
Roller, paint sprayer, or a trowel

Many of the major paint manufacturers offer lines of textured paints. The paints are available in a range from smooth to coarse texture, often based on common wall texturing types such as knockdown or popcorn, or as sand texture or Venetian plaster. “Textured paint can offer subtle texture, but typically lacks the depth of traditional methods like trowel or knockdown technique,” says Reger. They also can be more difficult to remove than plaster. In addition, texture additives are available for most interior paints to broaden color choice. 

• Start with a small accent wall or practice piece to master the application of textured paint. Some of these products, such as Venetian plaster, take time and skill to master.
• Prime the clean, touched-up walls.
• Tape off areas you want to protect from the paint.
• Follow manufacturer recommendations for application. 
• In general, work quickly to cover the entire surface before the coat dries to prevent rigid lines where sections intersect. 
• After the recommended drying time, check for missed areas. Most textured paints require two coats, one for the base and another as the finishing layer, using your desired texturing tool.

 How to Texture Walls with a Roller

SUPPLIES
Premixed joint compound or textured paint
Paint tray
Paint roller and finishing roller if desired
Roller cover (½-inch to ¾-inch nap)
Paint brush

Using a paint roller to apply joint compound or textured paint is a simple and inexpensive approach to wall texturing, relying on tools most DIYers have on hand. One pass alone can create a basic texture with an antique look. 

• Start with clean, dry walls.
• Pour medium-to-thin texture compound (or a textured paint product) into a roller tray.
• Dip a ½-inch nap (or thicker) paint roller brush and roll the texture product onto a section of wall.
• To add a more finished look, roll the wall again with a clean roller brush after the joint compound has partially dried to lift some off for a more finished texture.
• Follow manufacturer directions for textured paint or additives to ensure proper roller application and number of coats.
• Go back over the wall as desired with other texturing tools or a finishing broadleaf roller with a design.
• Texture corners or edges where the roller cannot reach with a brush.
• Allow the paint or compound to dry completely before painting.

For a faux finish, which gives the allusion of texture with standard paint, roll on a base coat and allow it to dry. Then roll a second paint color or glaze over the base coat with a ¾-inch nap roller or a special stencil roller.

How to Texture Walls with a Sponge

SUPPLIES
Paint
Synthetic or paint sponges

Sponges are handy tools for second passes over trowel- or roller-applied compound to create a stippled effect in the texture, especially in hard-to-reach corners (you can easily cut a sponge to fit). A typical household synthetic sponge will create a fairly uniform effect, while sea sponges create more natural patterns. Paint sponges also work well to create interesting faux textures with standard or textured paint. 

• Apply wall texture with a roller or trowel, depending on whether you want to start with a relatively smooth or more raised effect.
• Dab the sponge on the compound while it is still relatively wet to achieve a stippled effect. Avoid a wiping motion.
• For faux texture with paint, prepare the wall, including painting the base layer or underlying color you want to show through the sponged paint.
• Soak one side of the sponge in the paint and dab it randomly but repeatedly on the wall. 
• After finishing, check your application or texturing to improve its natural look or make it more uniform, dabbing as needed.

How to Texture Walls With a Texture Sprayer

SUPPLIES
Drop cloths and painter’s tape
Joint compound mixed with water
Gravity-fed texture sprayer or pressurized texture sprayer (purchase or rent)
Finishing tools

Although wall texture spray cans are available and relatively inexpensive, they are designed primarily for small jobs or to repair patches or popcorn texture, for example. If you wish to texture a ceiling, a large surface, or several walls, consider using a drywall texture sprayer to speed up the task. The tool should be available for purchase or rental from home improvement centers. 

A texture sprayer is similar to a paint sprayer, which uses either gravity or compressed air and a gun-like nozzle to spray dense texture. Just beware that using these tools requires some skill, along with “proper setup and cleanup,” says Reger. If you’re uncomfortable using a sprayer, consider getting quotes from a professional.

• Cover any windows, light fixtures, floors, or other surfaces nearby, and remove furniture.
• Mix the joint compound and water well, according to the directions of the compound manufacturer and the sprayer instructions. Spraying joint compound typically requires a thinner consistency than if using a roller or trowel.
• Fill the sprayer’s hopper with the mixed joint compound.
• Before starting, check the sprayer label directions to determine how to adjust the nozzle to control how much material it sprays to match your desired pattern and coverage. 
• Spray in smooth and consistent motions, completing one wall before beginning another.  
• Adjust the nozzle as needed, wiping off any unwanted material before it dries.
• Complete the texturing design as desired with tools such as a trowel or sponge before the compound dries completely. 
• Clean the hopper and sprayer as soon as possible after finishing, according to the unit’s directions. 

Tips for Wall Texturing

Keep it random. Larry Oliver of Norwalk, Connecticut-based Lawrence Oliver Painting, says that no matter which technique you use: “When texturing walls, try not to be too repetitive, making the same shape over and over like chicken tracks,” he says. “To create a more professional finish, keep the textured pattern random.” 

Easily correct mistakes. When working with joint compound, if you apply too much or incorrectly position it, you can simply wipe away the mistake and begin again, even smoothing out damp compound with a trowel and starting over. 

Trowel at an angle. When learning how to texture a wall, always apply joint compound while holding the trowel at about a 15-degree angle, Oliver suggests. “The slight angle and light pressure ensure that you do not smooth out your finish too much,” he adds. 

Adjust drying time to reflect conditions. When working with joint compound in humid climates or areas, “allow extra drying time,” says Reger, and use fans or dehumidifiers to prevent sagging or uneven textures. He suggests that in dry climates, DIYers “lightly mist the surface to prevent cracking or premature drying during application.” 

Watch edges and corners. Many DIYers don’t pay enough attention to corners and edges, says Oliver.  “Always remember not to be heavy-handed in the corners and edges,” he cautions.

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