It’s easy to notice when it’s time to clean your deck surface, and many of us make sure to keep that backyard deck as tidy as our interior gathering spaces. But, it takes a bit of effort to dip down below the deck and consider maintaining the underside. Unlike the foundation walls of your home, the deck structure is typically uncovered and at the mercy of whatever severe weather is thrown at it. So, it’s a good idea to go under the deck to clean away the muck and check the soundness of the structure every spring. It’s an investment in your family’s safety, the deck’s appearance, and the longevity of your deck.

If you need a bit more motivation, consider this: About half of the 60 million decks in the U.S. need to be replaced or repaired, according to the North American Deck and Railing Association (NADRA), so there’s a good chance yours might be one of them. And the Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates 2,900 injuries and two deaths were caused by deck, balcony, or porch failures between 2016 and 2019. So with safety top of mind, here are the key deck features to clean and check. 

Get a good look at the ledger board.

It’s usually easiest to use an electric pressure washer—like the Ryobi 40V 1500 PSI, which earned “best cordless” honors in our hands-on testing—to clean the underside of a deck. Since you are directing water up and around you while you are working underneath the deck, it’s best to start at the house and work your way out toward the yard. Plus, the connection between the deck and the house, called a ledger board, is the most common place that deck failures happen. By cleaning away any debris, you’ll be able to get a good look at the ledger connection to make sure it’s still sound and securely connected. 

Remove mold and mildew from joists and under decking.

While the method for cleaning under a deck is similar to cleaning the decking on the surface, there are a few more things to consider. Mold and mildew fans out in the gaps between the decking boards and then it layers on the joists below. Use a deck cleaner or brightener with oxalic acid to remove mold and mildew while rejuvenating the natural color of the wood. As you’ll be working overhead with a chemical, make sure to wear a face shield, gloves, hat, and waterproof jacket to protect your skin and eyes. 

The point isn’t to make the deck look like it was just built; it’s to get rid of mold, mildew, and dirt to reveal the deck surfaces so that you can get a good look at the structure and inspect its condition. 

Check for any water issues. 

If you have a shaded deck with lots of conifer trees around, the needles can collect between the decking boards and create an organic dam that makes it difficult to shed water. And then microbes gather and can rot decking. Blasting the collection of goo from below with a pressure washer can be easier than working from the top, if you have the room below the deck. While shooting water under the deck, you will also notice where water naturally pools, which can be a playground for insects. It’s a good idea to take care of that with improved drainage. 

Bonus tip: Another source of potential water issues under a deck is a downspout extension that’s typically under there. They often fall apart and just gush water under your deck. Make sure to check whether your drainage system is connected and directing water properly.

Maintain the health of deck posts.

In addition to the ledger board, the deck posts are what keeps the deck off of the ground. While they may seem indestructible, they aren’t. Posts can start to grey from photodegradation and particulate matter in the air. It’s a good idea to clean them annually and check that they are still sound. Since posts are treated for ground contact, the chemicals can fade over time. When we resurface an older deck, we will often treat the posts with a preservative to lengthen the serviceability of the posts. It just takes a few minutes to insert the preservative into the posts. 

Inspect areas that are always damp.

Before you turn on the pressure washer, you might notice that it’s a soggy mess underneath the deck. If it’s always damp underneath the deck, it’s a breeding ground for mold and mildew that can slowly eat away at your wood deck. Consider covering the ground with stones to help with drainage. For more serious drainage issues, you may need to install a more involved drainage system. 

Scan for missing fasteners. 

Sometimes fasteners become loose and some may even wiggle out over time. It seems like you would notice it, but if it’s under your deck and dirt has filled the fastener hole…you might not ever notice until you go underneath the deck to check. Clearing out dirt can reveal locations where you may need to replace or secure loose fasteners. 

Watch for critter problems.

While you are under your deck, you may notice evidence of unwanted guests living there. If you have a dog, you might already know there’s an issue since dogs will react to critters and then scratch at the decking surface to try to get at them. The issue with critters is that they often dig near the foundation and then shoot a plume of dirt into the yard while they dig. The other issue is that animals can go under your deck to die, which is never a pleasant situation to add to a weekend chore list. 

Add a few inches of gravel underneath the deck to make digging an unbearable task for critters, and add a critter wall around the perimeter of the deck to prevent most critters from accessing under there. Make at least one panel of the critter wall removable, so you can access under your deck when you need to clean it and check it again next year. 

Tip: If cleaning the deck reveals deeper concerns and issues, stop using your deck until a local deck inspector can evaluate your deck’s health and develop a plan for making it safe for your family and friends.

The post Have You Ever Cleaned the Underside of Your Deck? appeared first on Bob Vila.

When you need to repair a sidewalk, create a space to store a trash can, or build a small storage shed, a few basic concrete skills come in handy. A small concrete slab doesn’t cost much to DIY, and the process is straightforward.

However, grading the soil, assembling concrete forms, and mixing and pouring concrete require a bit of planning. It is also no small amount of physical work. Properly finishing the concrete will ensure that the new slab looks great, resists cracking, and remains functional for many years to come.

After the concrete has been poured into the forms, it’s time to start finishing. The concrete finishing process transitions the freshly poured concrete into a strong, smooth surface before it fully sets. Doing it well calls for close attention to the condition of the wet concrete, and properly timing each step.

Read on to learn about the necessary tools, techniques, and timing for a strong, durable, and attractive finish on concrete. After reading this article, you will better know how to finish concrete.

Project Overview

Working Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 2 hours
Skill Level: Beginner
Estimated Cost: $15 or more, depending on tools that need to be purchased

Before You Begin

Wet concrete is highly alkaline, so the first order of business is to protect yourself from the risk of chemical burns. Whether you are mixing, pouring, or finishing concrete, be sure to wear rubber gloves to keep your hands safe, and safety glasses to protect your eyes.

Also wear long pants, a long sleeve shirt, and if you’ll be standing in the wet concrete, rubber boots. If your bare skin comes into contact with wet concrete, rinse it off with plain water right away.

Before beginning the essential job of finishing, bear in mind these helpful tips:

• Concrete projects are weather-sensitive. Hot (above 80 degrees) or cold (below 50 degrees) weather complicates the finishing process. For beginners, a cloudy day with moderate temperatures and no rain in the forecast is best for pouring and finishing concrete.
• Timing is critical. Each of the steps ahead is tied to the condition of the concrete. Steps 1 through 3 are done immediately after the pour, before water rises to the surface. Wait for “bleed water” to appear and evaporate before resuming steps 4 through 6. Step 7 is to be done after the concrete has completely cured.
• Avoid over-handling wet concrete. Doing so can cause the different sizes of aggregate within the concrete to separate, weakening the final slab.
• Use a flat shovel or trowel, if needed, to move and spread the concrete. Round point shovels do not spread concrete evenly.

Step-by-Step Guide to Finishing Concrete

Step 1: Spread the wet concrete evenly to completely fill the forms.

Immediately after pouring the concrete, make sure that the concrete form is completely and evenly filled. It may be necessary to move some of the wet mix from high spots, using a trowel or flat shovel, to fill voids.

If the form appears to be full and the surface is even, use a hammer to gently tap the form on all sides. This vibrates the wet concrete and helps it settle in place, preventing air pockets from forming in the face of the concrete.

Step 2: Screed the wet concrete level at the top of the form.

The purpose of screeding is to make the concrete surface perfectly flat and level with the top of the form. For all but the smallest projects, it helps to work with a partner on this step.

• Lay the narrow edge of a long, straight 2×4 board across one end of the form.
• Use a quick sawing motion to slide the screed board across the surface of the concrete from one end of the form to the other.
• Use a trowel to pick up excess concrete from high spots and fill in low spots.
• Screed 3 or four times, or more, until the whole surface is flat. Smoothing concrete at this point is not necessary.

Step 3: Float the surface of the concrete before bleed water appears.

Floating concrete embeds the aggregate and begins to pull excess water to the top of the concrete. A handheld float or darby will suffice for smaller projects, but a bull float is a better option for large slabs. For best results, raise the leading edge of the tool slightly as you move it across the surface.

Use long sweeping strokes to smooth the entire surface of the concrete. Don’t worry about creating a perfect texture at this point. We will cover how to smooth concrete in step 6. After floating, allow the concrete to rest for at least 15 minutes before moving to the next step.

Step 4: Edge the concrete after the water evaporates from the surface.

You may only need to wait 15 minutes after floating the concrete, or it could take several hours. When the surface water disappears, it’s time to begin the finishing touches, starting with the edge. A rounded edge helps prevent breakage and chipping at the edges.

Use a handheld edging tool to shape the rounded edge all the way around the perimeter of the slab. As you move the edger along the form, keep the leading edge slightly raised and apply gentle downward pressure on the following edge.

Step 5: Add contraction joints at the proper depth and spacing.

A flat concrete surface is subject to cracking that diminishes both the appearance and durability of the slab. Adding grooves, or joints, minimizes uncontrolled cracking by providing space for expansion.

With a clean 2×4 board as a guide, use a handheld groover to score expansion joints from edge to edge into the surface of the concrete. These joints should penetrate ¼ the depth of the concrete, or 1-inch deep for a slab that’s 4 inches thick. Space them between 2 and 3 feet apart for each inch of thickness, so every 8 to 12 feet for a 4-inch-thick slab.

Step 6: Broom the surface or refine it with a trowel.

The earlier stages of finishing concrete leave the surface flat and uniform but with an inconsistent texture. The final tooling depends on your project preferences. Brooming establishes an even textured surface, while troweling concrete at this stage makes the surface of the concrete smoother.

If you prefer smooth concrete you can trowel finish concrete immediately after adding the expansion joints. Begin at a distant edge and work backwards to avoid marring the finished work. Move the trowel across the surface in broad sweeping motions with moderate downward pressure, always with the leading edge slightly raised.

For all-weather functionality, a broom finish looks good, remains durable for years, and offers good walking or driving traction. Wait until the concrete has dried to the point that it no longer exhibits a wet sheen. Then, with a stiff bristle broom, applying just enough pressure to raise the texture of the concrete, brush across the surface in long straight lines.

Tried-and-True Advice

“The slab is something you will look at regularly so take the time to tamp out air, trowel everything evenly and edge for a perfect form. I love a smooth trowel finish for smaller slabs, but brooming is far more efficient while working larger surfaces. Spend as much time as needed to get the final surface evenly finished, and your project will look fantastic.”

—Zach Lazzari, Contributing Writer

 

Step 7: Protect the slab until it hardens, then seal it after curing.

After all that hard work, protect the still-pliable concrete surface from foot traffic, falling debris, and rainfall for at least 24 hours or until the concrete is dry. Use scrap lumber laid across the forms to support a covering of tarps or plastic sheeting. This covering will also prevent the slab from drying too quickly which could cause cracking under certain conditions. Do not allow foot traffic for 3 to 4 days, and no automobiles for a week.

It takes about 4 weeks for a new slab to fully cure. After 28 days, it’s time to apply a protective concrete sealer. Concrete sealer prevents surface damage, corrosion, and staining, extending the life of the slab.

Final Thoughts

Some jobs call for the services of a professional contractor, but pouring and finishing a small concrete project does not have to be one of them. The timing of each step is critical and you’ll need to pay close attention to the moisture level of the concrete. With a good plan and the right tools, finishing concrete isn’t difficult. Following the steps outlined above, many DIYers can apply a durable and attractive finish on a freshly poured slab.

The post How to Finish Concrete appeared first on Bob Vila.

Homeowners with a backyard may daydream about building the perfect deck for outdoor cooking, lounging, and entertaining. While there are many details to consider, one important safety detail is the height and spacing of the guards and railings. The guards are a continuous structural system that provides safety protection, and they are often (and mistakenly) called deck railings and commonly called guardrails. The railings are actually the graspable areas, like along a stair.

As with other residential building codes, the required deck guards and deck railing heights will depend on the municipality’s building codes. These codes set forth the requirements for any deck guards based on the platform height and the other dimensions of the deck to ensure the safety of anyone using it. While a low-platform deck may not need a guard to meet code requirements, a higher-platform deck or multilevel deck with stairs may call for continuous guards and a graspable deck railing with specific height and spacing requirements. 

Since codes can vary by location, it’s always best practice to contact the local building department and inquire about any necessary permits, inspections, and specific building plan requirements before starting construction. However, there are a few standard guidelines about guards and railings that most municipalities follow, and they are good to keep in mind when planning a deck-building project.

Deck Guard Height Requirements

Building codes for a standard single-family residential dwelling are typically based on the International Residential Code (IRC), a set of minimum guidelines established to ensure the protection of public health, safety, and welfare. In many municipalities, deck builders follow the Prescriptive Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide (also referred to as the DCA-6 by deck builders) that’s based on the IRC. It dictates that deck guards must be installed on any deck higher than 30 inches above grade. The deck guard height should be a minimum of 36 inches, as measured from the surface of the deck to the top cap of the guard.

“Some places have increased the required height of guards to 42 inches,” says Glen Mathewson, Master Code Professional (MCP) and creator of BuildingCodeCollege.com. It’s “often related to how high the fall hazard is above that 30-inch trigger” above grade, he says.  

Since local municipalities can have their own code requirements about guard height, check with your local building department to ensure it does not require a higher guard than 36 inches or specific installation methods. If a proposed deck will be lower than 30 inches above grade, it may not require guards to pass code (but a homeowner may opt to install them for safety or aesthetics anyway).

Deck Stair Railing Height and Guard Height Requirements

When purchasing materials for a deck, homeowners will need to consider both guards around the perimeter of the deck and the railing for the deck stairs. At least one graspable deck stair railing should stand at least 34 inches high, measured vertically from the nose of the stair tread to the top of the rail. 

The IRC specifies that deck handrail height on a stair should be between 34 and 38 inches high, so homeowners may wish to use railing that is even higher than 34 inches for their deck stairs. However, it’s also an important safety detail that the handrail is smooth and continuous from the lowest riser to the highest riser. 

Deck Guard Baluster Spacing

Balusters are the thinner vertical posts—often colloquially called pickets—that run between the bottom rail and top cap along the guards to prevent people and pets from falling off the edge of the deck or staircase. Code requirements dictate that balusters be spaced less than 4 inches apart. This safety guideline is based on the size of a small child’s head to prevent babies and young children from sticking their heads in the gaps between balusters.

The 4-inch rule also applies to the space between the bottom horizontal rail of the guard system and the deck surface. 

Deck Cable Railing Spacing

Not all deck railings have vertical balusters. Another option that has been gaining in popularity is cable railing systems. These systems use either metal or wood posts with cable railing strung horizontally between them. As with the vertical balusters, the codes dictate the same spacing of less than 4 inches must be maintained between the cables. Many of these systems are created as kits, so the manufacturers often provide templates or pre-drilled holes in the posts that maintain this code-dictated spacing. 

When cable railing started to appear on residential decks, discussions began about the “ladder effect” as it relates to the possibility of people climbing horizontal cables on decks. After a 3-year ICC Code Technology Committee review, it was determined there isn’t a need for further restrictions.

However, since cable railing is a newer guard system for residential applications, there is some debate about the flexibility of the cables. “I’d say one issue where things are very inconsistent, but not a legal adoption/amendment, is in cable guards and inspectors that believe they can pry them open to test opening restrictions,” says Mathewson. “The pulling open of cable guards is a researched subject and one that has been debated at code hearings, and it has not resulted in any guidance or authority in the IRC to do so.”

To eliminate this issue, cable rails are tightened during installation to not allow movement. Just like with all deck guards and other structural members, it’s best to check them periodically to make sure they are still performing as well as the day they were installed. 

Deck Paneled Guard Railing Codes

As the building codes apply to all guards on a deck, the same codes apply to deck guards that contain glass or decorative panels. The open areas within the panel and between the panel and the surrounding guard posts, top cap, bottom cap, decking surface must be small enough so that a 4-inch sphere can’t pass through. 

And just like the other types of deck guard systems, they have to be able to withstand 200-pound force and the balusters or other infill panels must be able to withstand at least 50 pounds of force per square foot.

Deck Railing and Guard Code Details

When it comes to stair design, there are a few exceptions to the IRC requirements for deck baluster gaps. 

• In the triangular opening that’s formed where the stair riser, tread, and bottom stair rail edge meet, the opening should be small enough that a 6-inch sphere can’t fit through it. 
• The graspable stair handrail must project at least 1½ inches from the wall or guard system.
• The space between the balusters on a stair guard system must not allow a 4⅜-inch sphere to pass through. 
• A guard post is required every 6 feet along a stair. 

Still, if the stairs risers are open, a 4-inch sphere must not be able to pass between the treads. 

Other Deck Railing Codes

Depending on the style of deck a homeowner wants and the complexity of the build, certain sections of a deck may be subject to different building codes. For example, a split level deck may not need the same guardrail, stair rail, and baluster requirements on a section that’s lower than 30 inches as an upper section of the deck that is 30 inches or more above grade. A low deck may not need any railings. 

“In residential occupancies NOT covered by the IRC, guards must be 42 inches tall under IBC for decks and balconies,” says Mathewson. “Balconies under IBC have some newer ventilation requirements prompted from the Berkeley tragedy” in 2015 when six people died and seven were injured after a balcony collapsed, he adds. 

No matter what type of deck you want to build, always ensure the plans meet local building code requirements before you begin.

Final Thoughts

Decking guard systems and railings are an important safety feature of a backyard deck building project. Making sure the guard height and spacing meets the code requirements is essential for keeping your family and friends safe while they enjoy a backyard party on your deck.

Still, while the codes are in place for our safety, Mathewson warns that you can’t rely on deck guards to protect you from serious injury or death if you are not paying attention or being irresponsible while on a deck. 

The post Deck Railing Height and Code Requirements appeared first on Bob Vila.