Icicles hanging off your house and glistening in the sun might produce a gorgeous winter scene, but they can also cause damage and be a safety hazard to your family, pets, and home. Icicles form as snow on your roof melts slowly when temperatures rise above freezing, but then refreezes as ice when long drips of water hit colder air. As multiple icicles form over time, the weight can put stress on gutters and the roof, leading to expensive repairs. Tiny icicles are harmless, but those at least 1 foot long or more should be addressed. 

Although it might be fun and satisfying to knock down the icicles yourself, that is not the best idea. These are sharp objects that can pierce anything below when they drop quickly to the ground. Plus, the act of removing icicles can essentially be as dangerous as the icicles themselves. 

Learn why you should not remove large icicles yourself, how to remove icicles properly with the help of a professional to avoid any injury or destruction to your home, and when it’s necessary to do so. 

Falling icicles can injure people, animals, and structures.

It’s risky business trying to knock down icicles yourself because these spear-like objects can injure you or others in the vicinity as they break from the side of your house. They tend to fall in unpredictable ways, so you might be caught by surprise and get hit on the head, which could easily cause bleeding and in some cases, a head injury like a concussion. You could also end up with bad bruises and even broken bones. While the icicles are hanging on the side of your house, be mindful that they could come crashing down at any time on people, pets, wildlife, and structures or objects like your car. 

Removing icicles can damage gutters.

If excess water can’t flow freely through gutters, icicles can form on them and weigh them down. This is often the result of heat inside your house keeping the roof warm, and causing snow to thaw. As the snow melts, water flows into the freezing cold gutter and forms icicles as it spills over the sides of the gutter. This typically happens if the gutters are clogged with debris like leaves, pine needles, and dirt that block the water from running down the rainspout. 

If you tear down the icicles, the gutters can break. This is a costly repair you want to avoid. If they break and your home lacks functional gutters during wintertime when snow and ice are melting, this can cause a real problem, including structural damage to your house. 

Knocking down icicles can harm the roof.

If heavy icicles weigh your roof down, there might be an ice dam issue. It is common for ice dams to form on roofs in cold climates. An ice dam results from snow that melts and then refreezes at the gutter or soffit due to an abnormally warm roof. Water pools up on the roof and gets trapped between shingles before it freezes, which can weaken the roof, loosen shingles, and even cause leaks in the interior of your home. Those leaks can damage walls, ceilings, and insulation.

Ice dams are most common on asphalt shingle roofs, but can form on other roofing materials, especially if the roof is flat. Icicles are inevitable with ice dams, but removing icicles could cause damage to the roof if not done properly. It is best to take steps to prevent ice dams.

Take steps to prevent icicles from forming in the first place.

While it’s unlikely that you can prevent all icicles from forming on your house, you can take some measures to minimize their occurrence and help prevent winter weather damage to your home.  

• Clean gutters regularly to prevent clogs from debris buildup, which ultimately can cause water to back up and freeze. 
• Keep up with snow removal, such as by using a snow rake, since less snow on the roof means less melting water that can lead to icicles forming.
• Hire a professional to install heating cables on your roof to keep the snow and ice melted.
• Check that the insulation in your attic is adequate because warm air that heats up that space can end up melting snow in some areas of the roof, creating water that runs off the edge of the roof where it freezes into icicles or ice dams.
• Ensure there is adequate ventilation at the ridge and soffits to help keep the attic cool enough to prevent snow melt. 
• Replace or add a drip edge to the roof to help manage water flow and prevent roof and structural damage. 

Icicle removal is best left to the pros.

Even if you are tempted to save some money and rip those icicles down, try to contain yourself and make a phone call instead. Safe, proper icicle removal from a gutter or the roof is best done by a licensed contractor or roof cleaner. Besides the risks of getting hurt by the sharp ice itself, it is dangerous to work on ladders and a roof under snowy, icy conditions. Plus, pros know how to remove icicles in such a way that won’t destroy your gutters, roof, and siding. 

Pros also have the right tools, gear, and training to remove the icicles and prevent them from forming in the future. This includes gloves, a helmet, safety glasses, a long pole or broom handle, and an extendable roof rake. Before the next winter, take steps to help prevent yearly icicles.

The post Why You Should Never Knock Down Icicles Yourself—and What to Do Instead appeared first on Bob Vila.

Located on the sloped side of a roof, a dormer window brings natural light into the top floor of a home. They can be a great addition to an attic space that’s being converted into a finished space like a home office or bedroom. 

“Dormers are a great way to improve usable attic space, but costs can quickly add up depending on the sort of roof that one is being added to, and how big the dormer might be,” says Mike Patterson, Production Manager for Smiley Renovations LLC in Bethesda, Maryland. “There are also considerations of what to do with HVAC, plumbing, or electric components, which might need to be modified or relocated. Those affect the budget as well.”

If you’re considering dormer windows for a new house construction or loft conversion, keep reading. We’ll explain the pros and cons and advise on the style options available.

What are dormer windows?

So what is a dormer window? This type of window sits vertically in a framed structure that juts outward from the pitch of the main roof and features a little roof of its own above the window. Dormer windows are often associated with Craftsman, Queen Anne, Colonial, Greek Revival, and other traditional architecture styles, but they can be found on any style of house that has a sloped roof.

Dormer windows first appeared in residential roofs in 16th-century Britain, where they helped direct natural light into attic sleeping areas. In residential construction, the use of dormer windows hasn’t changed much over the past few hundred years. They’re still valuable for bringing light into attics and lofts, but today, homeowners are more interested in choosing a style of dormer window to complement their house design.

Dormer vs. Gable

There are a lot of terms that architects and contractors use when discussing roofs, and it can be difficult to keep all of them straight. Both dormers and gables are parts of roofs, but are distinct architectural features. 

A dormer is a perpendicular protrusion from a sloped roof. While dormer and dormer window are often used interchangeably, they aren’t the same. All dormer windows are part of a dormer, but not all dormers have windows. Those without windows are called blind or false dormers. The extensions create more usable square footage without the additional natural light boost that a window would provide. 

A gable is the flat triangular portion of a roof that has two sloping sides. There are types of gable houses; the terms depend on the orientation of the house—whether the entry door is on a gable side or the sloped side. Those that have the entry on the gable side are called front-gable homes. Side-gable homes have the entry on a slanted roof side. Dormers aren’t found on the gable, but windows can be on gables. 

Dormer Window Styles

The style of the roof above the window defines the style of a dormer window. Often, a dormer roof matches the style of the house’s main roof, but there are plenty of exceptions. While a house with a gable roof can have a gambrel dormer, a shed dormer, or another style, the dormer roof often matches the main roof style. The type of roofing material on a dormer window also typically matches the roofing material on the main roof. If the main roof has asphalt shingles, for example, the roof over the dormer window likely will as well. 

Tip: Don’t place roof shingles on the sides of the dormer. The sides should be treated with the same siding material as the rest of the house.

While both traditional dormers and modern dormers exist, the following dormer window styles are common on today’s homes. Your favorite might just be among these dormer window ideas.

Gable Dormer

The most common style of dormer window features a gable (a triangular roof with slopes of equal pitch) over the window. Since it resembles a traditional dog house, it’s often called a dog-house dormer by contractors. 

Gambrel Dormer

The roof on a gambrel dormer features a gable at the peak of the roof, but then descends into two steeper roof slopes on the sides of the roof. Gambrel roofs often appear on traditional Dutch Colonial homes and barns, since a gambrel dormer has a barn-like feel.

Hipped Dormer

Unlike a hipped roof that has four equal sloped sides, a hipped window dormer features just three roof planes, one on each side and a third parallel to the front of the dormer. The fourth side of the dormer is the interior of the house. The three planes slope upward and meet at a common point at the peak of the dormer’s roof.

Shed Dormer

This dormer has only one roof plane that slopes in the same direction as the slope of the main roof, but with a much shallower pitch. The pitch of a shed dormer is sometimes so slight that it appears to be almost horizontal. Some slope is necessary, however, to allow water to run off.

Eyebrow Dormer 

Instead of flat roof planes, an eyebrow dormer roof features a gently curved wave that extends up and completely over the window. An eyebrow dormer has no additional vertical wall sides and can give the impression of an eye peering out from under a hooded lid. These are often found on shingle-style and Tudor homes.

Bonnet Dormer

A bonnet dormer has a curved roof—like half of a cylinder—and vertical walls on either side of the window. It’s common to install arch-top windows in bonnet dormers so the top of the window matches the arch of the bonnet. Though they are not popular as contemporary dormer windows, bonnet dormers might be featured on homes from the late 19th century. 

Wall Dormer

This type of dormer can appear on any one of the above styles of roofs, but its defining feature is that the front of the dormer is an extension of the exterior wall below. Instead of setting back in the middle of the roof, the siding on the main part of the house continues right up into the dormer, making the front of the dormer flush with the front of the house.

Lucarne Dormer

Inspired by those found on Gothic cathedrals, residential lucarne dormers are typically tall and narrow. Originally created just for ventilation, most feature gable roofs above the windows but can have a hipped or other style. Some also refer to all dormers as lucarnes. 

Blind Dormer

While most dormer windows permit light into the loft, a blind (or false) dormer is for adding extra space or for architectural massing. From the street, a blind dormer can appear identical to an ordinary dormer window, but instead of the dormer opening into the interior of the house, it merely attaches to the surface of the roof. While it can increase the usable space inside the top floor, it can also serve merely as decoration.

Pros and Cons of Dormer Windows

Dormer windows are desirable not just for bringing in natural light and adding extra usable space; they also have exterior aesthetic appeal. A common misconception about dormer windows is that they make interior spaces smaller, but without a dormer window, there could be even less usable space. The dormer window opens up part of the floor area for a person or piece of furniture to occupy and increase the light into the space. Otherwise, the top floor space would need to be rebuilt with a flat roof or even a mansard, which was developed to create a more usable attic floor. 

If you’re considering adding dormer windows to a new house or having one retrofitted on your existing home, the following benefits and drawbacks might help in the decision-making process.

Pros

• Interior illumination: Attics and lofts are naturally dim without a window to brighten the interior.
• Increased living space: The interior area of a typical dormer window can serve as a sleeping or reading nook, or hold a dresser or bench.
• Better airflow: An operable window in a dormer helps ventilate warm air out and fresh air in.
• Exterior appearance: Dormer windows attractively break up the long expanse of a roof, adding character and style.

Cons

• Added cost: It takes time and materials to build a dormer window, so installation cost is greater than the price of a roof without one. Plus, you might need to reroute HVAC, electrical, or plumbing, which adds to costs and might increase the number of trades that need to be involved in the project.  
• Increased leak risk: Dormers, like chimneys, penetrate the main roof, which means there’s a greater likelihood of leaks. Flashing—a method of interweaving shingles and sheet metal—is necessary to reduce the risk of leaks. Still, penetrations remain more leak-prone than other parts of the roof.

Dormer Window Cost

According to HomeAdvisor, adding a dormer window costs an average of $12,000, and can range from $2,500 to $30,000 per window, depending on the style, size, roof framing, roof type, and material choice. Prefab dormers, like this dormer window kit for a shed or garage, are also an option. However, prefab dormers designed for a home can cost between $8,000 and $14,000.  

Shed dormers are usually the least expensive option, and more complicated eyebrow and arched dormer windows can cost the most to install. However, a dormer provides about a 40 percent return on investment. 

Dormer Window Installation

Installing a dormer window is not a DIY project. Putting in a dormer window is strictly a job for the pros. It involves working on the sloped roof, and often requires complex angle-framing. If it’s a retrofit, an engineer must design the reconfiguration of the rafters necessary to support and install the new dormer. 

Dormer Windows in New Home Construction

Framing contractors will construct the frame of the dormer at the same time they frame the roof structure. Sheathing (the plywood that covers the framing studs) is attached to the outside dormer walls and over the rafters of the main roof at the same time. The next step is the installation of a vapor barrier wrap over the sheathing on the vertical walls of the dormer. 

A pro usually installs the window next, and then the roofing contractor will install the roof shingles over the dormer roof and the main roof at the same time so there is no noticeable transition between the two—just a seamless layer of shingles over the entire roof. The sides of the dormer are clad in exterior wall cladding like siding. When the exterior is complete, the interior of the dormer is finished (painted and trimmed) at the same time the interior loft space is finished.

Dormer Windows in Remodeling Projects

When a dormer window is retrofitted in an existing house, the main focus is to reduce the amount of time you have a gaping hole in your roof. 

Timing

It’s essential to consider the season and weather when scheduling the construction of a new dormer. “Opening a house in winter or a rainy season is going to require a lot more protection efforts,” says Patterson. “The size and competence of the crew make a difference also. A larger crew, with everything well planned, materials pre-cut etc., will get the dormer weathertight more quickly than one or two guys just plodding along. Every day open, there is more risk of damage,” he says.

For this reason, interior framing, such as alterations to the interior rafters or trusses (alterations that must be cleared by a structural engineer), is often done first, and then the contractor constructs the exterior frame of the dormer on the surface of the roof. 

Roof Framing 

When the interior framing is complete, the contractor cuts a connecting hole through the roof and then completes any necessary additional framing. “If the roof is made of trusses, any alterations need to be carefully looked at by a licensed professional engineer (PE),” says Patterson. “Stick-built roofs are a little easier to modify, but both require that the load path of the new dormer be properly installed down to the foundation—and still should use a PE. This can involve opening ceilings and walls below the work area to install posts or beams; adding costs that might not immediately be apparent.” 

The window is typically installed next and then the dormer can be wrapped with a vapor barrier before finishing the exterior and interior as desired.

Roof Shingles

If you’re thinking about retrofitting one or more dormer windows in an existing house, the best time to do it is when you’re replacing the shingles. That way, the roofing contractor can lay new shingles over the entire roof at the same time. This provides the most cohesive look because it can be difficult to perfectly match new shingles to existing ones.

Access to Finished Attic Space

“Another potential surprise can happen when deciding to turn an attic into finished living space, and that is how one gets up there,” says Patterson. “A steep attic staircase will likely need to be replaced with a code-compliant one, and space and money need to be found to do that work,” he says.

The post Dormer Windows: Styles, Pros, Cons, and Costs appeared first on Bob Vila.

The hardest part of fixing a roof leak? Locating the leak. Sure, it’s easy enough to spot water stains on the ceiling or mold on the walls, which are sure signs of a leak. But once water has penetrated the roof, it’s easily diverted by such things as insulation. Even though you may notice the evidence of a leak in the corner bedroom, the vulnerable point in your roof may be quite far removed from that part of your house.

For this reason, roof repair jobs typically begin with a certain amount of detective work. These tips for finding a roof leak will help you solve the mystery quickly and repair the leak before the damage to your roof, and your home’s interior, gets any worse.

Step 1: From inside the attic, inspect the underside of the roof.

Arm yourself with a flashlight and head up to the attic. Be careful up there: If there’s no proper flooring, step carefully from joist to joist. (If you step between the joists, you might put a foot through the ceiling of the room below.)

Once you’ve got your bearings, use the flashlight to examine the underside of the roof. Look for any areas that are darker than the surrounding roof sheathing. If it hasn’t rained recently, moist spots may be too difficult to discern. Mold, on the other hand, has a tendency to linger. If you encounter a patch of mold, which thrives on moisture, chances are you’ve found the vulnerable point in your roof.

Step 2: Follow damaged insulation back to the source of the roof leak.

The underside of your roof may be obscured by attic insulation, and that’s actually helpful for finding the roof leak. Insulation deteriorates more noticeably and more quickly than wood does. If you see damage on one section of the insulation, however, you must remember that the leak itself may be several feet to either side because it diverted rainwater from the source of the leak.

It’s best to carefully remove all insulation adjacent to part of the roof where you notice signs of a leak. That way, you can follow the path of the water from the damaged area all the way to the water’s entry point in the roof. (If you’re going to handle or work around insulation, it’s important to wear appropriate protective gear such as gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator mask.)

Step 3: Inspect the underside of the roof for perforations and vents.

Most noticeable to the eye are leaks caused by an object (for example, an errant nail) that has managed to pierce the roof. Failing any such obvious signs, inspect the roof vents next. These vents are typically near ridges or gable ends, or both. Over time, the seals around vents can gradually weaken and allow rainwater to seep in.

Tried-and-True Advice

“I’ve had to deal with a number of leaky roofs, and have found that most form not where there is a continuous flow of shingles, but where some utility or feature penetrates the roof: Plumbing vents, HVAC system vents, skylights, and chimneys are the most common. Chances are, a failing vent pipe boot or leaking chimney flashing is allowing water to enter and flow down the interior of the roof to the spot where it’s coming through the ceiling. If there’s roof penetration above the location of the leak on the ceiling, it’s likely the culprit.”

—Tony Carrick, Contributing Writer

Step 4: If the weather is dry, use a hose to simulate a downpour.

What happens if you’re desperate to find a roof leak, but dry weather has made your search more challenging? You can simulate a storm. This method requires two people: One person on the roof with a garden hose, and another person in the attic with a flashlight. Working in small sections, the person on the roof sprays the roof with water while the one in the attic carefully examines the underside of the roof for leakage.

By simulating a downpour, you can see firsthand how your roof withstands—or fails to withstand, as the case may be—conditions similar to those of a natural storm.

Step 5: Begin your roof repair.

Leaks only get worse. Act quickly once you’ve pinpointed the location of yours. Fortunately, in many instances it takes only a modest roof repair, like replacing a shingle, to fix the leak. If you don’t feel comfortable on the roof or if the leak seems extensive, hire a roof repair professional to do the work.

The post How to Find a Roof Leak appeared first on Bob Vila.

Wet snow can weigh as much as 21 pounds per square foot, according to the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), and a snow roof rake is the most effective means of removing that weight. The heavier the snow, the greater the risk of structural damage to a roof. That’s why the roof rake is an essential piece of winter equipment in some regions.

This tool lets users remove snow from a roof while keeping their feet planted firmly and safely on the ground. Failing to remove heavy snow can damage a roof and home after a big storm. Without a roof rake, one would need to improvise a tool or climb on the roof with a shovel, which are both dangerous and challenging options.

I tested eight different roof rakes after heavy snowfalls in Montana. To do so, I raked a metal roof and a shingle roof with different heights and pitches. I also tested the rakes on a tall shed and a camper. The camper was especially important because snow and ice buildup can lead to roof damage and leaks. My favorite from the bunch is the combo pack from Avalanche! It can handle large amounts of snow and includes built-in wheels to prevent roof damage.

Keep reading to learn about the different features to look for in a roof rake and find out why we chose the following as the best roof rake options available.

1. BEST OVERALL: Avalanche! Combo Package
2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Goplus Roof Snow Removal Rake Tool
3. BEST HEAVY-DUTY: SnowPeeler Premium Long Handle Roof Rake
4. BEST FOR FLAT ROOFS: Avalanche! Big Rig Rake
5. BEST FOR BIG ROOFS: True Temper Telescoping Snow Roof Rake
6. BEST GRIP: Snow Joe RJ208M Pro Snow Removal Roof Rake
7. BEST TELESCOPING HANDLE: Garant Snow Roof Rake With Telescopic Handle
8. BEST FOR GUTTERS: Roof Razor Original Snow Removal Tool

Before You Buy a Roof Rake

Note that roof rakes are intended for snow removal on single-story homes only. They should only be used when standing on the ground, and never while standing on a ladder. Attempting to balance a long pole while navigating snow-slick ladder rungs is a surefire way to slip and fall. Even if you have great balance, the weight of the snow you’re pulling off the roof could easily knock you off a ladder.

Product Comparison

Our Top Picks

Selected for quality, functionality, material construction, and design, all of these tested products are excellent options for keeping the roof snow-free during the winter.

Best Overall

Avalanche! Combo Package

See It

What We Like

• Heavy-duty design; suitable for large amounts of snow
• Retractable plastic slide attachment enhances efficiency
• Built-in wheels to glide along the roof, preventing damage

What We Don’t Like

• Weighs more than most roof rakes on our list
• Adding and removing sections slows job completion

Product Specs 

• Length: Extendable from 4 to 15.5 feet
• Weight: 10.8 pounds
• Material: Fiberglass shaft, plastic head

Equipped with a retractable plastic slide for enhanced efficiency, this rake pulls dislodged snow down the slide and off the roof, saving users time and effort. It’s also equipped with small wheels to help it glide along the roof without damaging it.

The rake extends from 4 to 15.5 feet when each fiberglass extension bar is attached. This process is simple, but it takes a few minutes to add each extension. With telescoping models being the exception, most other roof rakes use fitted extension segments similarly.

When adding an extension pole, users might need to remove gloves to press the locking button. I really liked the fiberglass poles because they aren’t nearly as cold as metal options. It is important to ensure that the segments are seated well at each joint, with the locking button in place.

Super durable, the plastic head is up to heavy-duty challenges. Raking snow off a roof is usually awkward with any rake, and that was the case with this one. But I didn’t mind a small amount of extra weight while reaching for the high spots because the durable design also gave me the confidence to hit the heavy snow spots and pull hard. I felt like the fiberglass poles were strong as well.

One other reason this won our top spot is the fact that multiple heads are included for different needs. The head that’s equipped with wheels and a slide should be able to tackle most users’ needs. The slide allows snow to fall off the roof easily, creating a pathway over gutters and other obstacles. When users hit stubborn areas and need a head that can bust through ice and grab big chunks of snow over shingles, asphalt, and tricky surfaces, they’ll want to use the rake head with wheels.

What Our Tester Says: “I think this combo package is a great investment for anyone requiring regular use of a snow roof rake. Shoppers can find lighter-duty options for regions with less snow accumulation, but for those folks living in the mountains and regions where the snow piles up, I think a high-quality system is worth the price.”–Zach Lazzari, product tester and writer.

Read our full review: Avalanche! Combo Package

Get the Avalanche! Combo roof rake at Amazon or The Home Depot.

Best Bang For The Buck

Goplus Roof Snow Removal Rake Tool

See It

What We Like

• Lightweight and easy-to-handle
• Multiple shaft segments for different length needs
• Nice grip, durable head, and well-built handles

What We Don’t Like

• Not built for heavy-duty use

Product Specs 

• Length: Up to 20 feet
• Weight: 4.5 pounds
• Material: Aluminum shaft, plastic rake

Simple and affordable, this shovel provides up to 20 feet of reach with the help of its lightweight aluminum poles. Similar to other models, this rake features a clever locking system that allows users to add or remove segments. The snow roof rake itself is a simple hard plastic rake with metal supports to increase strength and rigidity.

Users will want to bolt the rake supports and head into place, but that’s the extent of the assembly. The rake head is hard and durable, and the handles are well built. When adding segments, each section must be seated well with the locking button aligned perfectly to hold the segments together. I found it easiest to connect each segment without gloves. It’s worth noting that the metal can get pretty cold to the touch, so work quickly or wear thin gloves.

The rake had no problem pulling snow off the roof. It doesn’t have a slide for easy removal, but it will make quick work of bigger drifts that add serious weight to the structure. The aluminum shafts do flex a little when every piece is connected, but overall, this rake worked well, and it has a great price point.

Get the Goplus roof rake at Amazon.

Best Heavy-duty

SnowPeeler Premium Long Handle Roof Rake

See It

What We Like

• Suitable for heavy snowfall
• Slide attachment improves efficiency
• Assembly is simple with a no-frills design

What We Don’t Like

• Heavier than other rakes

Product Specs 

• Length: Extendable to 30 feet
• Weight: 13.4 pounds
• Material: Aluminum shaft, aluminum head

Users who live in a region that gets heavy snow might want to invest in the tough SnowPeeler roof rake. Weighing in at 13.4 pounds and boasting a sizable 18-inch aluminum rake head with built-in stabilizing braces, the SnowPeeler roof snow rake can pull even packed snow down from the roof with no problem.

This is a heavy-duty product made with an aluminum shaft and rake head for dealing with deep, heavy snow. The roof rake can extend from up to 30 feet in length by adding the included extension poles as needed.

The SnowPeeler comes with a slide attachment that creates a slick path for the snow to slide down and off the roof. This greatly improves efficiency because the user doesn’t need to pull the snow all the way off the edge. However, the weight of the rake can fatigue the user more quickly than a lighter rake might.

I found this rake to be very easy to use, and I only wish the storm had dumped a heavier snow load so that I could really push its limits. Regardless, it peeled off a heavy foot of snow without any issues. It’s ideal for ski towns and mountain locations that get heavy snowfall and big storm events. Thanks to its no-frills design, assembly is simple, and the effectiveness for heavy snow is excellent. Overall, this roof rake is made to work hard.

Get the SnowPeeler roof rake at Amazon or The Home Depot.

Best For Flat Roofs

Avalanche! Big Rig Rake

See It

What We Like

• Sharp-angled shaft good for flat roofs
• Wheels protect the roof and shingles from damage
• Lightweight with a comfortable nonslip handle

What We Don’t Like

• Not ideal for sloped roofs with its angled shaft

Product Specs 

• Length: Extendable from 4 to 16 feet
• Weight: 7.25 pounds
• Material: Fiberglass shaft, plastic head

To properly clear a flat roof, it’s necessary to use a roof rake that doesn’t have a completely straight shaft. The shaft needs to be angled so that it can bend over the side and still sit flat on the roof. Designed with that in mind, this rake features a simple angled connector piece that fits onto the fiberglass shaft and extension bars. This gives users the ideal reach for a flat roof, like that of a truck trailer, RV, or shed.

Each extension bar is about 4 feet long, allowing the roof rake to extend to a maximum length of 15.5 feet. Also, keep in mind that each extension bar needs to be manually connected to the shaft. This is less convenient than other models that house the extensions inside the core of the shaft, allowing users to slide them out as desired. This roof rake weighs just over 7 pounds and features built-in wheels to keep the rake head from damaging the shingles.

I primarily tested this roof rake on my camper. It’s a flat roof with few obstacles aside from the two roof vents. The angled shaft made it very easy to clear the entire roof—it only took a few minutes. I think this model would also be great for semi-trailers, cargo trailers, and even flat roofs on garages and houses.

The problem with flat roofs is that they don’t allow snow to slough off naturally. This creates serious problem areas that can damage the roof and test the structural limits of a house or trailer. While straight-shaft models allow users to rake reasonably well, they still have trouble grabbing and pulling the base layers of snow. With this rake, I could easily clear the full snow load. It’s durable, sturdy, and easy to grip as well. I’m a big fan of this model and the quality of this brand’s products in general.

Get the Avalanche! Big Rig roof rake at Amazon.

Best For Big Roofs

True Temper Telescoping Snow Roof Rake

See It

What We Like

• Aluminum design is easy to lift and maneuver
• Easy push-button extension can reach up to 17 feet
• Comfortable nonslip handle

What We Don’t Like

• Polyethylene head may crack or chip with repeated contact

Product Specs 

• Length: Extendable from 7 to 17 feet
• Weight: 4.88 pounds
• Material: Aluminum shaft, polyethylene head

The push-button telescoping design on this True Temper roof rake can extend the pole up to 17 feet, and it quickly collapses to 7 feet for storage. It weighs just 4.88 pounds, so users can easily lift it over their heads and control the movement of the rake.

If their home maintenance regularly requires removing substantial snow deposits, users will likely appreciate the lightweight aluminum design, which is easy to lift and maneuver thanks to its nonslip handle. Plus, this rake effectively pulls down deep snow accumulations in a single draw thanks to its 24-inch-wide poly blade.

This isn’t the longest roof rake out there, but its lightweight build is a trade-off that makes this model a favorite for large roofs. The telescoping handle lets the user quickly change the shaft’s length to match the required distance and pitch. Adjusting the telescoping handle is especially easy, and I found it very easy to manipulate. If you’ll be raking multiple roofs and will need to change lengths quickly, this is a great roof rake.

Although it’s a few feet shorter than some rakes, I was able to reach every spot needed on my roof. For a unique roof that requires some serious reach, there are much longer rakes out there, but they use segments rather than telescoping designs.

Get the True Temper roof rake at Amazon, Tractor Supply Co., or The Home Depot.

Best Grip

Snow Joe RJ208M Pro Snow Removal Roof Rake

See It

What We Like

• Excellent grip increases control and functionality
• Slide system and head design minimizes effort
• Sturdy poles snap together easily

What We Don’t Like

• Wheels can hang up on ice dams and other obstacles
• Not designed to pull against heavy snow loads

Product Specs 

• Length: 22 feet
• Weight: 7 pounds
• Material: Aluminum poles

This was a tricky roof rake to categorize because it performed very well across several categories. It did a great job overall, and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend the rake for large roofs, heavy snow, and possibly other categories, too. It also sits at a nice price point.

One thing that stood out about this rake was its comfortable grip. I was able to hold it with and without gloves without my grip slipping. As minor a feature as it might seem, the grip really increased the functionality of this rake. The aluminum poles are also very sturdy and well built. Segments can be added or removed quickly with the locking button system. During testing, each section seated easily and snapped right into place.

The 22-foot-long model I tested offered plenty of reach, although if shoppers need a longer rake, the company also offers a 28-foot option. The rake head has two wheels and a fabric slide for easy snow removal. As the wheels roll into the snow, the fabric slide moves beneath it, allowing the snow to slide off the roof. The head is designed in such a way that it glides along the snow with very little resistance.

This type of head design is used by a number of other brands and models. It’s a great system that doesn’t cause fatigue as quickly as heavier rake heads made of a single solid strip. If the roof has ice dams and obstacles, though, the wheels might get caught occasionally. I really like the slide system overall because it’s capable of removing snow with minimal effort. It also covers gutters, and the snow slides over those openings.

In short, this rake impressed me. It features a solid design with a great grip. The handle feels durable, and during testing, it pulled snow off the roof with little resistance.

Get the Snow Joe roof rake at Lowe’s, The Home Depot, or Menards.

Best Telescoping Handle

Garant Snow Roof Rake With Telescopic Handle

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What We Like

• Great grip on coated primary pole
• Smooth all-in-one telescoping handle
• Sturdy rake head

What We Don’t Like

• Shorter than other models
• No wheels or slides for assistance

Product Specs 

• Length: 16.5 feet
• Weight: 4.5 pounds
• Material: Aluminum handle, poly blade

Dealing with stand-alone pole extension segments can be a hassle at times. Not only is it a pain to have to lug them around while raking the roof, but it also takes time and planning to add and remove segments for different areas of the roof. It’s true that segmented designs work well for users who have a specific length need and consistent roof pitches—it’s not a bad system by any means, but all-in-one telescoping handles are much more convenient.

When you need to make adjustments on the fly and don’t want a pile of poles in the garage or truck, a telescoping handle design is an ideal option. This telescoping roof rake from Garant features a well-rounded design with a smooth-telescoping handle that extends to 16.5 feet long. It’s certainly not the longest out there, but it should be sufficient for most single-story homes.

I loved the handle and pole design of this model. It slides out in seconds, so length can be added or subtracted in a jiffy. I found the push-button design very user-friendly. Just make sure to hear a click to lock out the handle at the desired length. The coated primary pole also offers a great gripping platform for the second hand.

This model uses a standard poly blade with angled supports. The same system can be found on many other models. It’s sturdy and makes it easy to grab and pull snow. It requires more effort and strength than roller-and-slide systems, but I still found it easy to get the job done. For anyone with a normal single-story home, this roof rake is a winner. I love that it’s easy to store as a single-piece unit rather than having to deal with various poles and components.

Get the Garant roof rake at Ace Hardware or Walmart.

Best For Gutters

Roof Razor Original Snow Removal Tool

See It

What We Like

• Great for big roofs with gutters
• Wheels and snow slide work very well
• 24-inch cutting head removes large snow loads quickly

What We Don’t Like

• Poles may flex when all segments are attached
• Pole segments must be seated well to avoid damage

Product Specs 

• Length: 24 feet
• Weight: 10 pounds
• Material: Aluminum

The Roof Razor and the aforementioned SnowPeeler have a few design similarities. It’s a close call between the two, and each has a unique set of advantages. I think the SnowPeeler has slightly stronger poles, but the Roof Razor is certainly up to tackling large roofs and heavy snow loads. During testing, the fabric slide rolled out nicely, and it allowed snow to slide over the gutters and fall to the ground.

I appreciated the long 24-foot handle, largely because it allowed me to reach difficult areas. Thanks to that, I was able to use this rake on the high roof of my neighbor’s metal shop. It was easy to lift and maneuver, even with the super-long extension poles attached. It also rolled easily over the metal roof and allowed a foot or so of snow to slide off. The high side of the shop didn’t have gutters, but the lower lean-to section did, and the slide covered the gutters as snow was removed. I was able to clear most of the 50-foot-long by 30-foot-wide shop within a half hour.

As with many snow rakes, this one requires each pole segment to be connected manually. To do so, users will want to seat the sections and make sure the button locks into place. This rake is slightly heavier than other models, but it also offers more length than most. Overall, it’s easy to handle once users find the balance point. A basic wrench set is required for assembly.

Get the Roof Razor roof rake at Amazon.

Jump to Our Top Picks

How We Tested the Best Roof Rakes

Testing was done throughout a weeklong storm event. The first 3 days received heavy snowfall with a mix of dry powder and wet snow. The powder wasn’t problematic, but the wet snow was heavy, and it stuck to the rooftops. It also underwent a slight thaw and a subsequent freeze cycle that solidified the rooftop snow.

I waited for the storm to end and rotated through each roof rake, pulling sections of snow down. I judged each roof rake based on ease of assembly, grip, length, and ability to reach and grab snow without damaging the roof. Durability was also considered. Several of the brands have similar design features with slight variations in the way they are constructed. There was a reasonable overlap when it comes to performance and function with these look-alike models.

What to Consider When Choosing a Roof Rake

Make sure you’re up to date on the most important product factors before deciding on the best option to rake snow from your roof and prevent ice dams from forming. Some factors to consider in finding the right snow rake for roof cleaning include the type and quality of the materials, length, weight, and head design.

Material

A roof rake for snow removal can be made of different materials, including fiberglass, polyethylene, aluminum, and wood.

• Fiberglass is a durable, lightweight material commonly used to make the shaft of a roof rake. This provides substantial support, allowing the user to push and pull snow without worrying about handling a heavy or fragile shaft.
• Polyethylene is a type of plastic used to make the rake head. It’s tough, weather-resistant, and affordable, though aluminum is a more durable option.
• Aluminum is great for use as both a shaft and rake head, though the hard metal can scratch or tear shingles. To avoid this issue, invest in a roof rake with wheels to help keep the edge of the rake just off the top of the roof.
• Wood is never used for a roof rake head because it will begin to break down and decay with excessive exposure to water or snow. However, wood can be used to make the roof rake shaft, and it functions similarly to fiberglass.

Length and Weight

Most roof rakes come with adjustable poles that can be lengthened from 14 to 22 feet for snow removal and shortened to less than 8 feet for storage. The longer the pole, the higher users will be able to reach on the roof, but longer poles can also be unwieldy and may require more physical strength to lift and maneuver.

Roof rakes range in weight between 4 and 14 pounds, with most of the weight in the rake head. The heavier the rake head, the more likely it is to sink deeply into the snow on the roof, allowing users to remove a good amount with each pull. Conversely, heavy roof rakes require more physical strength to lift and position.

Head Design

Roof rake heads range in depth from a narrow 3 inches to a generous 10 inches, and widths run between 12 and 24 inches. The larger the rake head, the more snow the rake can remove in a single pull. If the snow is wet and heavy, it can require additional physical strength to pull it, which can lead to back and shoulder fatigue.

Curved heads and interchangeable attachments, such as a scoop, blade, or plastic slide, can greatly decrease fatigue if used properly. It’s also a good idea to consider looking for a roof rake with built-in wheels or bumpers to help protect the roof and shingles from damage. This is especially important when working with an aluminum rake head or if the rake has a blade attachment.

Tips for Using a Roof Rake

When starting to rake the snow off of a roof, it’s important to begin the process by removing the snow from the roof’s edge first. If users attempt to extend the roof rake as much as possible and simply pull down any snow caught within this range, there is a good chance that they will be unable to move the snow. Also, keep in mind that even if the snow does move, it isn’t a good idea to bring down that much snow at once because the weight of the snow could cause injury.

While the goal of snow removal on a driveway is to clear any snow or ice that could cause the car to slip, it’s not actually necessary to rake every inch of snow off the roof. Leaving one or two inches of snow isn’t going to cause ice dams to form, and this gap can help prevent the roof shingles from being damaged during raking.

Additionally, under no circumstances should users attempt to climb a ladder or walk on a sloped roof in winter conditions to remove snow. The entire purpose of a roof rake is for the user to remain on the ground, so don’t risk trying to rake the roof while perched on a ladder.

• Start at the roof’s edge and work towards the center.
• Not all the snow needs to be removed from a roof.
• Do not climb up a ladder or sloped roof while handling a roof rake.

FAQs

For more information on the best roof rake for snow removal at your home, take a look at some of the most commonly asked questions and the detailed answers below.

Q. What is a snow rake for? 

Unlike general-purpose rakes, snow rakes (also known as roof rakes) are specially designed for one purpose: to remove snow from single-story roofs without having to climb. This makes it much easier and safer to keep the roof clear of snow and prevent ice dams from forming in the gutter system.

Q. Do roof rakes damage shingles? 

The blade on a roof rake head can damage the shingles on a roof. This is especially true with aluminum rake heads, but this problem can be avoided if you invest in a roof rake with built-in wheels. These wheels elevate the rake slightly, suspending the rake head above the surface of the shingles instead of grating against them.

Q. Do roof rakes prevent ice dams? 

If you rake the roof the same day it snows, you can prevent ice build-up in the gutter system.

Q. Do I need a roof rake for a metal roof? 

Whether or not you need a roof rake depends on how much snow naturally builds up on your roof. Some houses have steep roofs that don’t collect a lot of snow, while others may have a gentle slope. Metal roofs can be raked with a roof rake to keep them clear of snow, but in most cases, the snow will tend to slide off a metal roof without a problem. In fact, many homes with metal roofs need snow guards or snow fences to prevent piles of snow from sliding off and potentially hurting anyone standing nearby.

Q. When should I rake my roof? 

It’s a good idea to rake the roof on the same day it snows, just as it isn’t wise to wait long to shovel your driveway. Keep in mind that freshly fallen snow is much easier to move than snow that has been allowed to melt and refreeze under the sun.

Meet the Tester

Zach Lazzari is a freelance writer splitting time between the great outdoors, travel, and DIY projects ranging from camper builds to home renovations and maintenance. His home base in Montana is the perfect testing grounds for winter products and snow equipment. With over a decade of professional writing experience, he also covers a variety of other projects and maintenance topics for Bobvila.com.

Additional research provided by Glenda Taylor and Timothy Dale.

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